Shashur in the local language literally translates to – ‘in the blue pines’. I would come to know about the adage when I reached there; Shashur Monastery is indeed surrounded by a small forest of blue pine trees and is reachable by a 3 km uphill walk from Keylong – which is preferred by the locals. For folks travelling by car, there is also a 5 km long motorable road to reach Shashur Monastery.

It was afternoon and clouds had just started gathering in the sky, and since there was a road that led to Shashur Monastery – I was more or less confident (or rather, hopeful) of being able to hitch a ride. I began my day in Keylong and opted to head to Tandi Bridge and Beeling village in the morning after a quick breakfast at one of the eateries in the bazaar.

Also read : Othang Gompa – The Crown Jewel of Pattan Valley, Lahaul

Over the last 2-3 days, one thing had led to another and as I visited one monastery, I was being guided by the locals for exploring other monasteries in Lahaul. I climbed to visit the Yardong / Yordong Monastery in Beeling near the HRTC workshop close to the Tandi bridge but was mildly disappointed when the doors were closed and there was nobody to show me around the cave-sort of monastery. However, I felt a tad unlucky when I met a monk while climbing down who said that he had the key to open the doors.

Read : Othang Gompa – The Crown Jewel of Pattan Valley, Lahaul

Anyhow, I started walking back to Keylong and someone in Beeling village suggested that I take a quick look at the ‘Jabjes‘ in the fields. Jabjes are the holy footsteps of the lama embedded in rock and I was happily surprised to be shown a rock with a clear foot imprint. Since it was the month of July, we were roughly in the middle of the summer in Lahaul Valley and the fields were awash with potato blooms. I enjoyed clicking the surreal landscapes and thanked the gentleman for bringing me to the fields.

After a few minutes of excitement of clicking Lahaul Valley’s rich summer landscapes with Keylong in the background, I decided to resume my walk back to Keylong.

It was around 2 pm in the afternoon and I went to the room to rest for a while and perhaps eat something (can’t really remember). At about 3-30 in the afternoon, I was unsure of what I wanted to do and once I got back to the road I saw the signboard of Shashur Monastery directly in front of me! It seemed to be a cue; since Shashur Monastery was one of the prominent monasteries in Lahaul Valley and there was a motorable road (dirt road) that went all the way to the top. I had decided about visiting it on one of the days when I was in Keylong and not exploring the other monasteries.

I made sure of refilling my water bottle before beginning the hike and asked the passersby for the best directions to reach Shashur monastery. Some locals told me that even though the motorable road would lead me to Shashur Monastery, the distance would be about 5-6 kms while there was a shortcut that would take about 1.5 hours for the 3 km distance on foot.

I was keen on hearing more about the shortcut and they told me that the shortcut would be a sharp ascent and I would keep meeting the road after every few bends. The trail itself was well defined and I was told to find the next shortcut very close to where the previous shortcut had ended.

I started on the path and within a few minutes lost my way because I was unable to find the shortcut. Nevertheless I continued walking on the road till I came across the next shortcut and was able to follow the aforementioned trail. After covering some distance, the path duly came in the midst of blue pine trees.

The shortcuts were quite steep and sometimes had a water canal flowing past and it so happened that I slipped and ended up falling near one of the canals. Thankfully, only my jeans was soiled and the camera had been saved. I felt a little cold with the fall but thankfully Lahaul’s arid air meant that I would be dry in no time. I was hoping to get a ride in one of the cars headed to the monastery since I was always in vicinity of the road but funnily enough no car came and I continued walking along the uphill trail.

Read : Khangsar, Kwaring, Sarang, Kolong – Exploring Lahaul Valley

Like all other things in life, I began to enjoy the hike and the views as I climbed higher; the sun didn’t seem harsh anymore and the yellow roofed Shashur Monastery started peeping from among the blue pines. I crossed an ethereal looking patch of ‘sia’ (or wild roses) that clearly stood out with the tantalising pink blooms.

A sort of storm seemed to be brewing in the distance and the Chandra river (or was it Bhaga!) shined whenever a sliver of sunshine fell on it. The green fields lit up and it presented a sight as bucolic as it could be. I reached Shashur Monastery after walking through a large stretch among the juniper trees and had all but forgotten about my soiled jeans that was dirty but drying rapidly at that time.

There was some sort of construction work going on near the chorten outside the monastery and one of the labours from Bihar indicated to me the entrance to the main monastery and I was glad when a young lama offered to show me around the different structures.

There was a signboard placed right in front of the monastery noting that : Shashur Gompa was founded by Lama Deva Gyatsho of Zanskar in the 17th Century and belongs to the Drukpa Sect. He was a missionary of Nawang Namgyal, who was the king of Bhutan. There was a small gompa here at the same spot before the bigger monastery was established by Deva Gyatso. Deva Gyatso stayed at the monastery till his death.

Shashur Monastery is quite big with a number of rooms and has a number of valuable thangkas with one thangka over fifteen feet in length. There are also well-preserved wall paintings depicting all the 84 mahasiddhas of Buddhism. In the month of July, Cham (masked dances) are performed by the monks in the monastery and the festival is called Tsechu, which is the most popular Cham festival in Lahaul.

The lama was kind and interesting and we ended up chatting and he allowed me to go to the different parts of the monastery and also opened a number of doors that were locked. The weather had started worsening and I was glad when he offered tea. The extra time had enabled me to notice the intricate bells (dorje) and I was able to click a few pictures with the mountains in the background.

The carvings on the door of the monastery are intricate and a nice breeze started blowing as soon as we had finished the tea. I noticed that a number of threatening dark clouds had gathered in the horizon and was hoping that the rain would stay away, at least until I had made it back to Keylong.

One of the doors of Shashur Monastery was incredibly beautiful with a delightful colour pattern along-with Buddhist designs. The lama and I made conversations in the open air balcony that had a vantage view of both sides of the valley. If memory serves me right, the lama was from Bhutan and I was quite surprised to know that it is customary for all serving lamas at Shashur Monastery to be from Bhutan. I was ecstatic when the sun peeked out from among the clouds lending a glorious light to the proceedings. He told me to try and attend the masked dance festival Tsechu at Shashur Monastery someday.

Just when I had thought I would encounter no other visitors, a lady tourist came in a taxi / cab and since there was no harm in asking for a ride back, I did and to my astonishment the car sped with the local Lahauli driver even before I could blink. I had a good laugh about this with the young lama and he said that human beings on earth are not alike and on this note, I took his leave since I would take an hour to make the long trudge back to Keylong.

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I embark on the same epic journey once again in a few days time – courtesy of a wedding invitation from Zanskar to attend and document a traditional Zanskari wedding. It is about time that I shared some of my deepest thoughts that were written in the diary while on the Darcha to Padum trek in 2015. Its been a long time since I’ve been toying with the idea of sharing the as-it-happened moments on the crazy solo trek.

Darcha to Padum Trek : Diary Entry of an Adventure

Day 1 

Arriving in Rarik : After coming back from Tayul Monastery near Gemur, reached Rarik village after a hitched car ride to reach Darcha. Rain in Darcha. Sit at a dhaba and talk to locals. Taste some delicacies of Lahaul. Already close to dark but they advise me to go as far as the bus goes. Reach Rarik. Almost dark. Only 2 passengers in the bus left. I get down at the last stop – Rarik village.

Still drizzling. Local tells me 6-8 homes in the village. I ask him if I can stay at his home. He doesn’t respond and walks away. I knock on the first door. Immediately welcomed. Om Mane Padme Hum sounds reverberate in the green valley. Home grown veggies. Flour brought from the market. Spinach and cabbage grown. Zaan dish served for me – barley flour ground by hand grinder, locally grown. Potatoes with green coriander served as well. Black tea with cardamom. Can’t thank Norbu enough for the kindness towards a stranger. Sleeping arrangements made in a room. Sound sleep. Nice and cold, but very cosy.

Check : Life in a Secret Village : Near Great Himalayan National Park in Himachal Pradesh

Day 2 

Lucky day to reach Chuminakpo : Wake up and feel refreshed. Sunny day. Gorgeous valley, Rarik village is very pretty indeed. Breakfast and tea. Norbu discusses and suggests me the trail and my plan of action. Refuses to take money from me after hearing about my friend Yonten. Standing on the road after saying goodbye to Norbu. Aroma of herbs while I stand on the road waiting for a ride to Zanskar Sumdo.

Some locals talk about a different bus to Yoche village, which lies on the other side of the valley. Sounds fascinating. On the road where I am standing; Chikha, Palmo and Zanskar Sumdo lie ahead. I’ve been told GREF trucks ply on this road and finding a ride to Zanskar Sumdo (around 4100m) is easy. There is a nicely placed stone dhaba in Zanskar Sumdo where I can stay for the night. Sumdo in Tibetan loosely translates to meeting point of valleys.

Among interesting anecdotes while chatting to locals : Kashmiris say that Zanskar begins from Zanskar Sumdo while Himachalis regard Shingo La or Shinku La (Shinkun La) as the state border. Developed village : On this side of the road, the Himachal Government has done a commendable job. Locals mention that all villages are connected by road and have basic primary health care and schools too.

The locals fear loss of culture when the Darcha – Padum road is completed and opened for vehicular traffic. Even currently young children are sent to far away places to study and its not surprising that they hardly know their customs and practices. Another local remarks that nowadays fertilisers are used in Lahaul, near Keylong. The fields and crops can no longer be said to be wholly organic. Some farmers though grow organic variety of cherries, strawberries, broccoli, iceberg rocket, lettuce, purple cabbage for supplying to the cities.

One can see Sony Bravia TV even in old and remote homes in Lahaul. In summer, long days of work for the locals. They are in the fields at daybreak at 5 am and toil till the last light of the day to cultivate crops in the brief summer season.

Village homes only in Chikha and only farms and pastures in Palmo. Metalled road till Palmo. GREF personnel are working on lengthening the metalled road. Truck came after some time and I reached GREF DETT Camp. The truck guys mentioned the distances to me : From Rarik to DETT GREF Camp Army – 9 kms. From Rarik to Zanskar Sumdo – Stone dhaba and DETT – 18 kms. From Rarik to Ramjak DETT – 27 kms. From Ramjak to Chuminakpo dhaba – 3 kms. Chumiknakpo is the place with a flat camping ground for pitching tents, and there’s also a parachute tent dhaba here.

I have no particular aim and have been told by Norbu that it is better to reach Zanskar Sumdo and stay at the dhaba for the night. It makes sense to have small goals in the absence of transport and take it from there. I got quite lucky to find another ride after reaching first GREF DETT Camp. The truck takes me to the dhaba at Zanskar Sumdo and I reach around 1 in the afternoon. It is nicely placed and stocked with necessities. I fix a price for the stay and food and watch the stunning landscapes with clouds floating carelessly.

After a quick omelette, I lie down with my mind made up about staying in Zanskar Sumdo for the night and then figuring the next step next day. A few horsemen from Zanskar have arrived and are going back to Kargyak; they ask me if I want to go with them on the horse . I’m uncertain about my pace and let them go. There’s another army DETT camp nearby and as I walk around with a few locals, the presence of another truck alarms me.

I ask the locals if the truck will drop me till as far it is going? They ask, the truck guy says yes – (I was to learn later that they were actually looking for people to remove boulders from the road!) I confirm with the dhaba guy that he’s not upset with me and he assures me its ok. I pay for the omelette and chocolates distributed among the local kids and sit in the truck with only a faint idea about the destination. The truck guy said he was going till Ramjak, from where the Chumiknakpo campsite was 3 kms away.

As we somehow made our way on the tortuous dirt track, the way ahead had been blocked by huge rocks. We got down to do the duty of pushing the rocks in the stream flowing on the right side. In the meantime, a sumo was seen coming just behind the truck. A local family was heading across the Shinku La and was headed to Chumiknakpo to stay for the night and begin the trek the next day. As soon as the road became operational, I quickly got into the sumo and was overjoyed at how the events had panned out.

They were a small family of 4; man, wife and two little kids. The youngest kid would hardly have been 5 years old and he really had a fun time playing with me in the sumo. Once we had reached the last road head at Chumiknakpo, everyone got down from the vehicle, but the parachute tent dhaba was nowhere to be seen. When I offered money, the local guy refused to take anything from me and said that anyway they had booked the entire sumo for the drop till Chuminakpo.

The family knew the exact route we had to take from the road to reach the dhaba. They were quick to skip down the valley even with the huge boulders while I stood on the road wondering how I was going to find a way. I was astonished at how even the little kids had managed to somehow get through the deadly looking terrain. It had started drizzling again and I just stood there and analysed from where I could go down to the dhaba.

Of course the dhaba could not be seen and therefore it was even more difficult for me in those 5 minutes to decide where to go. In the meantime, the dhaba owner had been communicated of my presence and he had sent someone to find me an easier way to get through. I was insanely happy on reaching the dhaba and putting my bags down. Oh, coming to the question of bags I wasn’t doing well on that front either.

I was carrying a backpack and a briefcase that contained my laptop. It was the ultimate trekking faux pas or even blunder. This was no joke. It was a trek that involved the crossing of a 5000m pass and I was carrying a suitcase! The dhaba owner was a kind man and asked me to sit in the tent. I told him I was also going to sleep in the tent and to give me proper bedding. I wasn’t carrying a sleeping bag and it was already so so cold.

He wasted no time in telling me that I wasn’t going to be able to get to Zanskar. When we conversed over black tea, he may have realised something about me and within no time, dhaba uncle became positive about my intent. He also told me that there were horsemen who were camping nearby and that I could handover my bags to them till Kargyak. I heaved a sigh of relief and immediately agreed a deal with the horsemen guys for 300 Rupees.

The clouds were stormy outside the parachute tent and when the clouds parted for a brief while, the stars shone brightly. It was an unbelievably beautiful sight I was witness to whenever I went to pee. I can’t really remember what dinner was but it was very very tasty. We also had a glass each of the local chhang. The tent flapped when the winds became crazy with howling sounds. The local family agreed to walk with me next morning.

What would happen on the next day? Did the weather get better? Was I able to get across the 5000-metre Shinku La in shorts? Did I survive after getting lost?

Since this article can be broken down in series, I am doing exactly that. Otherwise it could become humongous and too big to read at one go.

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There was a lovely stream flowing right past the road and upon some asking, the locals said that the way to Gemur Monastery began from the left side. I’d read in an old travel account that Gemur Khar (Gemoor khar) was a historically important place in Gemur. Khar means palace/fort. Funnily enough, I passed a signboard with the name ‘Gemoor Khar’ indicating a homestay. I wondered if that was an actual old building and asked a lady who was walking on the same path.

Click to view slideshow.

She didn’t seem to know about the same. She was wearing a different costume and was heading to a festival nearby. I asked her if I was indeed on the right trail to reach Gemur Monastery and she confirmed that the Gompa was only ten minutes walk away! I was pleasantly surprised to hear the same, after having made strenuous climbs to other monasteries like Kardang, Shashur, Tayul and some more; the names of which are still confusing to my outsider status.

Gemur village lies just before Jispa on the Manali-Leh highway. It is located approximately 18 kms after Keylong and 4 kms before Jispa. Historical accounts state that the masked dances of Gemur were highly watched affairs but locals say that the chaam performances are not currently held right now at Gemur. I am not certain about the same but someone from Lahaul has informed me that the masked dances at Gemur Monastery are supposed to start in the next few years.

Gemur Monastery (Gemur Gonpa or Gompa)

After walking for hardly 5 mins, the whitewashed building of Gemur Monastery was visible from below. The brightly coloured red windows stood out in the landscape and presented a pretty sight. The weather was turning stormy and I began to wonder if the rain was going to mar my experience. I cross a huge chorten before the monastery and a road that is being built to make access easier to Gemur monastery. Prayer flags flutter crazily as I keep walking.

Within no time, I was standing outside the doors of the monastery but there seemed to be no one to open the gates! After a five minute wait, someone heard my cries of ‘Lama ji, Lama ji’ and invited me inside the courtyard of Gemur Gompa. This region in Lahaul is called Tod valley and Gemur is an important village in this sub-valley.

There was a small ‘Incredible India’ signboard inscribed on a pillar in the courtyard of Gemur Monastery. I was pleasantly surprised to see the same. The monastery is at a scenic location and the back door of the courtyard commands a stunning bird’s eye view of the valley. The serpentine flow of Bhaga river is visible from the monastery and indeed presents a majestic picture with the jagged mountains in the background.

On one side is the three storey building of Gemur Monastery, and the other sides have small rooms. The monks’s quarters are also nearby where the lamas live. There are many fine Buddha stone carvings in the courtyard. The Lama doesn’t seem to be keen on showing me around the prayer halls and the room with the masks, but I am not the one who gives up easily and kept persisting.

Click to view slideshow.

Lama ji saunters to his room and brings the keys; I tell him I won’t take much time because I have somewhere else to go to! Inside the monastery, there were the usual religious texts on one side and freshly painted murals on the walls. A different looking statue was also there in one room, and the Lama indicated that it was of Goddess Vajravarahi and was believed to be from the 11th Century.

It was a splendid sight to see the light from one of the windows lighting up these old and significant statues. I’d have liked to be at an old monastery but Gemur was known to be a rich monastery in the old days and the refurbished building sort of confirmed the fact. The brightly coloured red windows with a black lining on the white walls is a delight for architecture and pattern lovers.

After spending some time in the Dukhang and the other prayer halls, I decided that my monastery touring was over and it was time to say goodbye to Lahaul. Cold winds were blowing by the time I was in the courtyard again, I sat for a bit and gazed at the valley views from the open door on the other side.

Within no time, I was back in Gemur on the highway and the waters of the stream provided great musical background to the stunning landscapes all around. It was around 3 or 4 in the afternoon and my Lahauli acquaintances had told me it was a good time to leave for the journey onward – I was embarking on a trek to Zanskar and had made zero plans!

And like luck works its magic; I hitched a ride to Darcha; where it rained so profusely that there was a traffic jam on the slender bridge. There was a bus to Rarik village, and I’d been advised to take it.

And here I am; after 3 years of this epic sojourn. The villagers of Zanskar have invited me to attend a traditional wedding in one of the tiny hamlets in the valley. I pray for the mountain Gods to be with me. The last visit to Gemur Monastery was a good omen; I recollect. Hopefully I shall be able to bring heartwarming stories from Zanskar.

Other posts on Lahaul :

Khangsar, Kwaring, Sarang, Kolong – Exploring Lahaul Valley

Wanderings in Lahaul : Trilokinath Temple

Wanderings in Lahaul : Kardang Monastery

Travel memories of 2015

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It was around noon that I reached Trilokinath village and the temple was hardly a five minute walk away. This region in Lahaul is called Pattan Valley and it was even more greener than other parts of Lahaul. HRTC’s excellent connectivity meant that there were regular bus services to the remote village of Trilokinath. There was a ceremony being held in Trilokinath temple and some kids were wandering around. It was a pretty sight, stone structures against a backdrop of pine forests capped with snow peaks.

Brief Introduction of Trilokinath Temple

Trilokinath temple is believed to be an 8th century temple and is located in Trilokinath Village across the Chandrabhaga river in Udaipur sub-division of Lahaul Valley. The sanctum sanctorum of the temple has a six armed deity that is worshipped as Lord Shiva by the Hindus and as Avalokiteshwara by the Buddhists. The locals believe that the deity was installed by Guru Padmasambhava himself. Trilokinath Temple is at a distance of 45 kms from Keylong and 16 kms from Udaipur. The temple and village lies at an altitude of 2700m.

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I had explored the monasteries of Lahaul Valley; around Keylong on my numerous visits to / from Ladakh, Spiti and Zanskar and had heard from Lahaulas that the temples around Udaipur are a must visit. This was not the Udaipur of Rajasthan but a different Udaipur in Lahaul. There was a feast going on in the temple and someone also told me to go and enjoy the food but I had no idea about the timing of the bus and figured it was better that I see the temple first and wait for a ride that would take me to Keylong.

It was a big surprise for me when I realised that the temple has gone through extensive renovations and the building was a white structure. The location of Trilokinath temple was very dazzling though and snow mountains were visible in the far distance. It was a cloudy day when I had reached but the sun gradually took control. There were many pilgrims to pay their respects and also colourful Tibetan prayer flags decorated the exterior parts of the temple, signifying active Buddhist presence.

While removing the shoes, I noticed a small stone statue of Nandi bull. I went inside the temple but was unlucky when the priest said that the door to the main shrine is closed and will only open in the evening. A few locals also tried to reason with the priest that I have come from very far away but to no avail! Some of them got together and said that I must come for the Festival that is held at Trilokinath Temple in August.

It was already around 2 in the afternoon; I walked towards the main road to start looking for either a bus or any ride. It was a lovely spot to wait; Chandrabhaga river flowed in the valley below and was surrounded by lush green fields of peas, potato and other vegetables. After waiting for around an hour, I met a Nepali man who was in Trilokinath on work; he informed me that the bus is about to come and it will indeed go to Keylong!

I witnessed the confluence of Chandra and Bhaga rivers in Tandi and the clouds gave me a stormy welcome in Keylong! I’ve already written the next day(s) of the journey if you wish to read.

How to reach Trilokinath?

There are regular buses to Trilokinath from both Keylong and Udaipur in Lahaul.

Hitchhiking in a truck : Stories from Nakee La

Failures on the Road – Stupidity in Changthang, Ladakh

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I can barely believe my luck. I am a mere tourist in the mountain state of Himachal Pradesh and am almost on the verge of a totally offbeat experience. I am no stranger to Lahaul, having passed through the region on the Manali – Leh road to Ladakh earlier. The gompas around Keylong had fascinated me and Jispa had appeared like a fairytale village, back then in summer.

In my mind, I am wondering how will I be able to bear the cold of this region sandwiched between Rohtang Pass & Baralacha La. And amidst all the thinking, I had packed my bag and was ready to set off for the adventure. Who cares if it is already mid November and even Manali is quite cold!

Yonten broke the reverie and said, ‘I was just kidding. Who goes to Lahaul in the winters?’

But the heart wants what it wants; and once the seed was planted there was no going back! I pleaded with Yonten and he said ok, we will leave early next morning. He also said that my jackets won’t suffice for the cold across Rohtang Pass and said that he will also arrange for a jacket for the trip!

We leave from Manali at around 7 in the morning and park the sumo near the bus stand. While buses for all parts of Himachal are leaving from the bus stand, the Manali to Rohtang to Keylong road (Manali – Leh highway) has been officially closed on 15th October and buses don’t ply on this route thereafter. There has been little snowfall at Rohtang Top and therefore sumos, private vehicles and trucks still run at their own risk.

While I wondered about the practicality of waiting for passengers heading to Lahaul Valley, in no time the sumo was full. The carrier had been loaded with stuff mostly to serve during the long and hard winters of Lahaul valley. Among the products were cylinders, eggs, onions and a variety of vegetables to be used in the homes for cooking. Price per seat were at 500 Rupees for the short 150 odd km distance but nobody cared and everyone was more than happy to just be able to make this trip.

We started moving when the sumo could take no more passengers, and even the baggage space had been occupied by locals wishing to send products back to their homes in Lahaul Valley. There was no traffic on the road and no checking either at the check post near Marhi. It seemed that no one bothered about an outsider right now; it was a local sumo filled with Lahaulis.

Local Lahauli numbers blared from the audio speakers and in no time we were ascending the dreaded Rohtang Pass that was supposed to close any time now. For a brief while I tinkered with the ‘what if’ situation in case of sudden snowfall and closure of Rohtang Pass! In those days, I had heard of Saach Pass but didn’t know that there was an escape route via Udaipur-Killar-Kishtwar-Jammu in case the Rohtang Jot was closed.

I was soaking in all the stories narrated by the locals while some of them indulged in friendly banter. What was an adventure for me was a way of life for these Lahaulas (locals of Lahaul valley). The road was in perfect condition and after descending from snow clad Rohtang Pass we reached Khoksar and as always had our lunch at a dhaba here. It was freezing cold as a chill breeze blew across the valley, everyone had a black tea to keep themselves warm.

Progress was quick as we crossed some frozen waterfalls and Keylong town to move onwards to Jispa and in between there was Gemur (Gemoor). Somewhere between Jispa and Gemur, a road appeared on the left side of the main highway and we began our ascent. It was only around 2 pm and we found ourselves in one of the villages; the ladies had come to greet their husbands and assist in carrying the supplies back to their homes.

The jacket was indeed a godsend as a fiercely chilly wind blew even as the sun shone bright. I was surprised to see someone carried a Sony Bravia Television in the sumo to be installed for the home! When I asked the locals, they confessed that everyone is quite well to do in Lahaul Valley by dint of their hard work in cultivating top quality seed potatoes and a variety of vegetables during the summer season. Sony Bravia was the choice of television for many households here, this was a common thing!

Read : Khardung La in Winter : Part 1

Smiling Co-passengers in the sumo. 

I took out my dslr and immediately that aroused a lot of interest among the locals; a few men and women queued up to be clicked! One of the fellow passengers invited all of us home for tea and we went up to the top most room of the house. The seating arrangement was very similar to a Ladakhi home and a tandoor bukhari occupied centre stage with a chimney letting the smoke out of the room directly through a pipe. The owner explained that the glass windows in the room aided in sunlight making it naturally warm and that each home in the Stod valley and all of Lahaul practised the same system with regards to the sunlight.

After a quick chai and random conversations, I was told that someone will be showing me the famous 108 room sandstone coloured mud fort of Khangsar. I was overjoyed, but first we must drop the other passengers as well. The entire landscape was barren and snow occupied faraway peaks. Waterfalls and most water sources were frozen already and regular sources of water that were in the sunshine were sought after by the villagers for their water needs.

After this, we reached Yonten’s village Sarang. As we were on a higher elevation than the rest of Lahaul Valley, the pristine waters of the meandering Bhaga river were visible on the right side of the valley as the river snaked through with much lesser water than in summer. As the sun began to set, the shadows lengthened and the villagers came back to their respective homes after collecting wood for burning; it was pin drop silence and I could only hear the mellifluous hum of Bhaga river in Stod valley.

Check A Comprehensive Travel Guide to Spiti Valley

 Buddhist deities inside Yonten’s home; and dinner preparations in the other photograph. 

We have been invited to a local’s home for a ceremony in Kwaring village which was in the opposite direction of the Sarang village. I am not too sure of the location, but memory suggests Kolong village came first, then Khangsar, then Sarang and Kwaring on the opposite side. These villages were all on the left bank of Bhaga river. On the right bank I could spot the Cave Monastery (Gompa) also called Tino Gompa or Dzong. There was also a solitary village to the right of the monastery located on the right bank of River Bhaga.

 Traditional delicacies of Lahaul Valley to welcome us. 

It was almost dark by the time we reached the house where the party of the ceremony was in full swing. The family seemed to be influential and the home seemed to be recently constructed with concrete and cement. A mud house was located nearby but like development has come to mean, every family was replacing them with concrete houses. It was quite cold as we stepped inside the house and were ushered into the drinking room!

Whisky seemed to be the popular choice for everyone and only one person was drinking arak (distilled form of barley liquor). Everyone was surprised when I requested for some chhang; they had automatically assumed that being an outsider I may not like their local drink. For which I told them, ‘I love the barley beer chhang, and also because it rarely causes a hangover next morning.’ This drew a round of applause (maybe because they were already drunk!) from the locals. Relatives had come from far and wide and I was very glad to have been a part of a local party in Lahaul.

Check : Dham across Himachal Pradesh & Where to Eat It?

After a glass (or two) of chhang, some arak was gulped down – all this while strange looking savouries and puris were brought to the table. The room was warm courtesy of the tandoor that was operating in the middle. I am not much of a drinker and the family realised this and brought me dinner early. It was a bowl of thukpa with dried churpi on the side. I relished a double round of the thukpa and Yonten indicated that we had a separate room to sleep in this very home.

Cute kids roamed around in the room and I clicked a few shots. It was a comfortable and cosy space to sleep, while the temperature outside must have been well into minus that night. Yet, the moon shone bright while we shivered when we wandered outside to pee before sleeping. An astonishing moment was when halfway through the party, an old man ‘dadaji’ got up and announced that he will now walk to his home. Someone said that he was more than 75 years old; I could only wonder how he would walk in the dark.

Read : Brokpas of Ladakh – Culture & Portraits

I slept soundly and woke up lazily the next day. Yonten informed me that we won’t have a chance to explore the valley because he had found a ride that wanted to reach Manali quickly. I was a little bit disappointed because I had not yet seen Khangsar Khar from the inside. I briefly toyed with the idea of heading to Ladakh because the road was still open; Baralacha La and Tanglang La were still open for vehicular traffic. And then I realised I had little cash on hand and my bag and other clothes were still in Manali.

Chhang and some local savouries. 

Sometimes life does present us with these little dilemmas that don’t actually mean anything but I decided that I was better off getting out of Lahaul lest a sudden snowfall meant I would be stuck here for the entirety of the winter. We had a quick breakfast, and chai before moving out of Kwaring village. Like we had done while coming, we picked up passengers for Manali. Most came empty handed while there were few who wanted to sell some sacks of seed potatoes in Manali market.

The autumn colours between Gondhla and Sissu were a sheer delight to the eyes. As we gobbled up a tasty lunch at the dhaba of Khoksar, a fleeting thought cross my mind.

Check : Offbeat Places Around Dharamshala – McLeodganj : Part 2

‘Is this a dream, or I really did visit Khangsar, Kwaring, Kolong, Sarang and perhaps other remote villages in the remote Lahaul Valley in mid November?!’ 

As the sumo crossed the snow clad Rohtang Pass, it felt more like a dream but years later – the camera pictures would tell me otherwise. Yonten, I hope you read this – Thank you so much for the incredible experience.

Where exactly is Lahaul?

Lahaul sub-division of Lahaul & Spiti district can be divided into the Chandra Valley, the Bhaga valley, Pattan valley and other high altitude regions that are mostly uninhabited.

Chandra Valley : The Chandra valley starts from the foot of the Baralacha pass and ends at Tandi. Batal, Chhotadara and Chhatru all lie on the Gramphoo to Kunzum La route and are a part of Chandra Valley in Lahaul.

Bhaga Valley : The valley comprises of regions onwards from Darcha town and is called Stod (s is silent) up to Keylong.

Pattan valley is very fertile and the most populous valley of Lahaul. It starts from Tandi and ends where river Chandrabhaga enters the district of Chamba, near Sansari Nallah and flows into Jammu and Kashmir as Chenab.

First Tryst with Pangi Valley : Sural Bhatori

Lahaul and Spiti were merged to form a single district in 1960, with the district headquarters at Keylong.

Khangsar Khar in Khangsar Village

Some say that the Khar (Fort) of Khangsar is 300 years old, while history suggests it may be even older. It still stands tall and is a heritage palace made of mud and wood. Khangsar Khar has a total of 108 rooms spanning four storeys, and a story goes that the current heiress of the abandoned palace is said to be living in Ladakh currently. Khangsar Khar is said to have been the seat of the powerful Thakur family that ruled Kolong.

The most famous castle of Lahaul valley is Gondhla, famous for its seven storey (or was it eight?) stone and timber fort built in the early 18th century. Another prominent castle that (sadly) doesn’t exist today is the Gemoor Khar; the history and acclaimed visitors to that place deserves another post in itself.

Read : Walking in the Snow from Jalori Pass to Shoja

Click to view slideshow.

A Brief History of Lahaul

According to various research papers, the first inhabitants of Lahaul were the Tibetan Khampas and Indo-Aryan nomads, who eventually intermarried and settled down in this fertile valley. This region may have been under the influence of Tibet during the 9th and 10th century. Ladakh eventually took political control of Lahaul and Spiti until the early 17th century.

Some parts of Lahaul; i.e. Pattan Valley, Chamba and Upper Lahaul came under the control of Raja of Kullu around 1680. I am not sure but some parts of Lahaul may have been under the administration of Chamba Kingdom. The Kolong Thakurs started becoming powerful during the rule of the Kullu Rajas.

Lahaul came under the control of the British East India Company in 1846. They transferred the local power to a ‘Wazir’ in return of allegiance. The first Wazir of Lahaul was the head of the Kolong Family. The Thakurs of Kolong are said to have helped the British in the wars and held supremacy in Lahaul Valley. The district of Lahaul & Spiti was formed after India became independent as a country.

Check : 7 roadtrips for adventure junkies in India

Frozen waterfall near Rohtang Pass in November. 

Must check this excellent post by Tarun Goel on Festivals of Lahaul Valley in Winters. Since the news of the Rohtang Tunnel almost ready to open has hit the news shelf, it necessitated the penning down of this post. Travel from Manali to Keylong will become an all weather thing and I can only hope we can somehow propagate Responsible Tourism in Lahaul Valley and Mr. Ravi Thakur’s vision is successful.

Memory is a funny thing. Once you have travelled somewhere, the words type themselves out as the landscapes play in your mind. Thank you Lahaulas for the hospitality. I would return to Sarang again next summer and stay in Yonten’s home for a day. I hope you make that trip to Jaipur soon and give me a chance to return the favour.

People who know me personally know that I generally keep the closest experiences to myself and can only share them when the heart is inundated. This trip to Lahaul was also a journey which would shape my life as a traveller. What are your memories that shaped your life? Share with me

Wanderings in Lahaul : Kardang Monastery

Wanderings in Lahaul – Tayul Monastery

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I had made a little map of the whereabouts of the gompas after speaking to old men in Keylong bazaar. They narrated a tale specific to Tayul monastery (Ta-Yul means – the chosen place in Tibetan).

It went like this :

‘Once upon a time there was a monk at the old Tayul Gompa. He was a good lama but became too proud and egoistic. One day he insulted the Rinpoche : They expelled him and also put a curse on him. He wandered like a lunatic for many years and finally threw himself in Tandi river when he couldn’t bear the insult.

His spirit remained in the valley and joined the other spirit people. He started harassing passersby and even pushed men and their donkeys in the nallah (water stream). The locals were afraid of his terror and performed a big ceremony with lamas of all the monasteries in Lahaul. After that the spirit has stayed away and doesn’t trouble anyone.’

The hills and their folk tales. Simple hearts and simple stories of the gods.

After a relaxed morning and a lazy breakfast of fried momos at the dhaba on the main road in Keylong (Also Kyelang), I was lucky to find a ride to the nearby village of Stingri (Satingri). The local storytellers had instructed me to look for a white chorten above the left side of the road around 5 kms after Keylong. The trail to the monastery would begin from here, they said.

I got down in the middle of nowhere and there wasn’t a soul around. There was a solitary house on the opposite side of the road, that was locked too. The Chandra river flowed below the gaze of the sacred mountain Drilbu Ri. I climbed to the chorten and immediately spotted a trail going up.

After walking for five minutes, the path abruptly disappeared among the trees and I was stuck. The simple fact of all monasteries being located on hillocks and higher plains meant I continued huffing and puffing while making the arduous climb through the shade of the trees. There were some men harvesting peas in a field, I rushed toward them – they confirm that I am on the right track. ‘It has only started and the climb will get steeper,’ they say.

After all, Tayul is perched at an altitude of 3900m which is much higher than Keylong’s 3300m. It is a Drukpa monastery and is said to have been founded in the 17th Century by a lama from Tibet.

Mani stones are scattered among juniper shrubs, signs for me to know I am closer to the monastery. The path finally flattens out and a string of old mud chortens greets me at a turning. There are fabulous views of the sacred Drilbu Ri mountain on the other side.

The sun is out with full force while the clouds are in a fierce battle for supremacy, for currently it is the wind that reigns supreme.

I am sweaty one moment and clutching my flimsy jacket in the next instant. After an hour’s walk from the main road, I approach the first building and say ‘Jullay’; a female monk comes out. I happily let my eyes feast on the variety and colours of wildflowers growing outside the structure.

I am ushered to the monastery; Tayul monastery isn’t huge by any standards. The door is pretty with various paintings of Drukpa order. Once inside, the 12 foot statue of Padmasambhava towers above everything. On one side is the statue of the Dakhini and on the other, the wrathful manifestation of the guru. Guru Padmasambhava is revered as a great sage by Tibetans for introducing Buddhism to Tibet in the 8th century.

There is a full library of Kangyur (religious Tibetan texts). All the walls inside the monastery are full of murals, the colour is a garish red. There are many thangkas in the gompa depicting various episodes from the life of Lord Buddha. The monastery seems to have been extensively rebuilt and everything seems new here. The djomo isn’t really helpful and is more interested in a baksheesh(donation).

I spend some time looking at the surroundings and spotting an old chorten near the monastery compound. There is an old crumbling house made of mud that fascinates me. Nearby is an entire complex that may have been the residence for the monks, it looks tattered and is nearly destroyed.

The clouds hold the upper hand now, the weather is worsening – the sane part of my brain asks me to make my way back. I make the downward journey quickly until I come to the part that was the most difficult point of the relentless uphill climb. There is no support and I slip and steady myself and somehow make it to the field. The villagers have taken a break and are happy to present peas. I hungrily stuff them into the big pockets of my jacket.

Anyway, I should not be hanging out here alone. Who knows if the folk tale does come alive.

This was a also a part of my acclimatisation process before I made the life changing Solo Trek to Zanskar across the 5090m high Shingo La / Shinkun La.

For more travel stories, anecdotes and experiences connect with me on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram.

I had reached Keylong with the aim of acclimatising before embarking on the epic solo trek to Zanskar. I was particularly fascinated with Lahaul’s history : Lahaul, Spiti and Zanskar were part of the kingdom of Ladakh in the 10th century. However, in the 17th century, Ladakh was defeated by a combined Mongol-Tibetan force changing the customs and culture of the entire region.

Lahaul was later separated into Upper Lahaul and Lower Lahaul which came under the  control of Kullu Kings and Chamba Rajas respectively. Most people follow a curious blend of both Hindu and Buddhist customs in Lahaul resulting in a fascinating amalgamation of culture, customs and architecture.

Located at approx. 3300m Keylong is the dist. headquarters of the Lahaul section of Lahaul & Spiti district and is a pretty modern town with a swanky bus-stand that has ample connectivity by buses to all parts of Lahaul & Pangi valley (as far as Killar in Pangi). Lahaul (also Lahoul) also has the distinction of being one of the most prosperous areas in entire Himachal Pradesh. There are lush green fields everywhere courtesy of the river basins of Chandra & ChandraBhaga.

Read : Solo travelling to the last frontier of Saach Pass

There was no seat to be found in the Haridwar-Keylong bus in Manali and I had no option but to board a 400 Rupees per seat shared sumo from Manali bus stand and reach breathless in Keylong. From the sea level of Jaipur to 10000 feet of Keylong was no joke and I was huffing and puffing while making my way up from the bus stand where the taxi left us.

Some local Lahauli friends came to meet me once I was in the guest house; I was keen on visiting all the monasteries around Keylong and luck smiled upon me. They had a car and were going to the biggest monastery in Lahaul : Kardang.

Kardang Monastery

The road crossed Tandi bridge and branched off upwards from the main highway and kept ascending quite prominently to pass through lush greenery. Kardang village is situated on the left bank of the river Bhaga and was once the capital of Lahaul and the monastery is located on top of the village. It may have taken us around one hour to cover this distance of around 20 kms.

It was the auspicious day of a Buddhist festival and there was a festive mood even among the monks. Flowers of various colours and sizes were growing in the vicinity of the monastery. The view of Chandra Valley from the open courtyard of the monastery was beautiful, checkered fields were visible interspersed with houses even as the Chandra river flowed serenely below.

The well maintained Drukpa Kargyud gompa of the red hat sect itself didn’t look 900 years old, as was claimed. The monks later told me that it was repaired in early 20th Century by a lama by the name of Norbu. The yellow roof of the Gompa is stunningly perched against the backdrop of the bare mountains of the Rangcha massif that tower above the valley. Prayer flags flutter in the cool breeze, my heart skips a beat too – it is summer in the valley and yet cold.

Read : Stunning experiences from the most remote monastery in the world

A separate room in the monastery enshrines a mighty prayer wheel said to contain a million strips of paper bearing the Buddhist mantra Om mani padme hum (‘hail to the jewel in the lotus’). There is an all day ceremony in progress at the monastery because of the festival, we are invited by the monks and offered drops of ‘arak’ a potent barley liquor in the form of prasad.

There are statues of Sakyamuni in the centre, Padmasambhava on the right, and Vajradhara on the left, inside the main monastery or du-khang. Kardang (Or Kardong) monastery also houses a around 80 lamas and djomos (female monks). There are full volumes of Kangyur and Tangyur (Sacred Buddhist texts) inside the monastery.

The walls of the gompa are decorated with colourful wall paintings, also called frescoes. As I am with esteemed locals, I am also invited for lunch with the monks at the dwelling of the high ranking lama. There is very tasty rice and dall, and a strange looking local snack to be savoured with tea. I am happy when they tell me I am lucky to come on an auspicious day.

The local amchi (Traditional Tibetan medicine doctor) takes us away and gives us some medicines made from herbs for our well being. I have the choice of either walking by a 2 hour shortcut to Keylong or go back with them in the comfort of a car. I choose the latter and am pleasantly surprised to know of another small monastery by the name of Jabjes Monastery in Kardang Village.

I am told there are rare paintings and frescoes inside Jabjesh monastery but alas, it is closed for renovation and the monk with the key is not to be found. I spot some rock carvings outside the monastery.

It is deja vu, I had asked to be left there; kids come and play with me, dark clouds gather and it promptly starts drizzling. I try taking a shortcut, spot the Tupchiling Gompa and watch rain cover the valley while chatting with the monk.

I had begun on an auspicious note, and the gods did not disappoint me. I was to explore more of Lahaul’s riches over the next few days and years.

For more travel stories, anecdotes and experiences connect with me on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram.

This was originally published in Hindustan Times Brunch Magazine

It is pitch dark and the only local on the bus asks me to knock on some door to find a place to stay for the night. It is an eventful beginning, in Rarig Village. I am welcomed inside the first home, given tea and food and feel even more confident about trekking all the way to Padum, the biggest town in Zanskar.

Clouds gather in the evening at the campsite of Chumi Napo, there is a Zanskari family and some locals who look at me wide-eyed when they learn that I am trekking alone and not carrying either a map, a tent or a sleeping bag. The Zanskaris call themselves ‘Zankarpa’. The stout dhaba owner expresses concern and asks me to reconsider my decision. He is kind to me after gulping some glasses of chaang (barley beer) and says ‘I will tell everyone who passes this way to take care of you.’

Read : A comprehensive guide to Spiti

The locals in Keylong had told me ‘If you walk fast, then there are villages every four to five hours.’ A village in Zanskar means anything from a one room home to a cluster of flimsy structures. I have inadvertently carried a laptop briefcase with me alongwith my backpack. A horseman going to Kargyak has agreed to carry my bags for three hundred rupees. It is a good harbinger, I have found company (or so i think) right at the beginning.

It is an insane two hours when I lose my way after crossing a very chilly, snow-bound Shingo La (5095 metres). I am wearing shorts because the dhaba owner at Chumi Napo has told me there are many water crossings and getting wet means I could fall sick. Howling winds blow and it is indeed very cold in the absence of sunlight. Snow has covered the landscape. There is a glacial blue lake at the top. ‘Khi khi so so largyalo’, the horsemen yell at the summit of the pass, I join in the prayers to the mountain gods and tie the Lung Ta prayer flags that I have carried all the way from Keylong. There is a certain calm at the highest point on the trek and I stop for a breather. The locals march ahead and I promptly lose them in no time. It would prove to be a big mistake.

My heart beat zooms, the half liter water bottle is empty and horrific scenes cross my mind. Mountaineers talk about hallucination, perhaps it is this. There isn’t one living thing around, not even flowers. I feel the effects of AMS with a dizzying headache. I somehow recollect my composure, turn back and gulp some water from a muddy stream and look at the watch. It is only half past one, I calmly tell myself that I have five-six hours of daylight left to find my way out. Giving up meant certain death. While I retrace my path, I find a cave room; in the worst case scenario of me having to spend the night at this insane altitude of approximately 5000m.

And then, luck intervenes; my roving eyes spot an ever so tiny yellow tent at the base of a faraway mountain. I rapidly descend toward my target only to be stopped dead in my tracks by the roaring waters of Tsarap Lingti or Lakhang Chu (Chu means river in Zanskari) which originates at Shingo La. The solitary dhaba owner of Lakhang has sent horsemen to help me cross the river on horseback. I collapse on the mattress in a mixture of relief, shock and contentment. They give me black tea that I sip groggily in the parachute tent of Lakhang (Funny that one tent comprise an entire village!)

Next day, the valley flattens out and with a gloriously shining sun it turns out to be one of the best days of the trek. It is a riot of colours; ochre, purple, orange, maroon among lush green circular valleys. Wildflowers of various colours bloom while the river quietly flows. Yaks roam wildly munching on grass under the shadow of the mighty Gumboranjan peak. The sight of the first village in Zanskar, Kargyak makes me ecstatic. Every family owns horses in Zanskar; a family’s wealth is measured in the number of cattle they own. The hamlet is a pretty cluster of whitewashed houses interspersed with green and gold swaying barley fields amid the stark, barren landscape.

I do a little dance of happiness and scream in delight knowing I shall get get food to eat. There are beautiful inscriptions on mane stones which are piled on top of each other, and lined up before and after every village with huge chortens. The valley is so remote that barter trade with traders of Changthang went on till as late as the 1980s when the Zankarpa exchanged salt from Changthang with barley from Zanskar.

I don’t quite believe it; the locals keep asking if am a foreigner! They say no one treks alone on this path – Let alone an Indian. It is the 1st of August, the entry register in Kargyak Village (where you have to write your details) contains names of a handful of people who have crossed the 5095m high Shingo La in 2015 – all of them from other countries.

Word has spread in the valley, an Indian is trekking alone and people instantly recognise me whenever I approach a habitation. Days pass slowly in the midst of stunning scenery, amazingly warm people, swaying golden barley fields, dramatic windswept landscapes and some of the oldest Buddhist villages. By the time I reach Purne, I am left with only a thousand rupees in my pocket. This is the land of the pure, there are no worries, I tell myself. After having come this far, I am not going to let anything be a downer.

The cave gompa of Phugtal, perhaps the most remote monastery in the world is only three hours away. The path has been rendered difficult after the devastation from the waters of Tsarap Chu earlier in May. After walking along steep precipices of jagged rocks, I find myself adjacent to the river with a dangling bridge as the next step on the trail. The monastery has stationed monks on the other side to impart some faith to travellers. It is scary. One guy from New Zealand has already been swept away by the waters of the Tsarap Chu. The monk waves and urges me to not look down and simply cross the bridge, nonchalantly. Cross I do, after damaging my fingers with the mesh wires.

Read : Stunning experiences from the most remote monastery in the world

Read : A journey to Phugtal, in pictures

It is as unreal as it had seemed in the pictures. Phugtal Gompa is idyllic and calm, built like a fortress on a cliff with mountains of various colours in the background. I feel lucky to lay my eyes on this rare structure supposedly built around 2000 years ago. The afternoon prayers are to be held at three o’ clock in the Dukhang (prayer hall) of the monastery. The monks see my bleeding fingers, I say I will be back someday to attend the prayers and walk away just before the ceremony starts. I just don’t have the heart for it, my mind is preoccupied with crossing the swaying bridge on the way back. I am very close to Baralacha La, the pass that lies at the crossroads of Lahaul, Ladakh, Zanskar & Spiti.

So near and yet so far.

The high ranking lamas at Phuktal monastery gift me a cap out of respect for having come alone on the treacherous path.

I peel peas that the villagers bring from the fields in exchange of food and shelter in Purne village. It takes a lot of resilience and many instances of good fortune for me to reach the village of Ichar, still without a penny in my pocket. I stay there at the six hundred year old home of a local and eat fresh organic food to gather strength again to walk to Raru and then finally onto Padum.

I am seen as a mini celebrity by the time I reach Padum (with torn shoes and what not!)

The locals that I exchanged numbers with called me in December and confirmed that it is indeed true; I happen to be the only Indian to have trekked the path from Darcha in Lahaul to Padum in Zanskar in all of 2015.

Oh, and I was an asthmatic two years ago on full time medication. It had been a lifelong dream to slow travel to Zanskar, perhaps the last vestige of Tibetan Buddhism in its true form that resulted in this epic journey – without a guide or a porter.

Come, travel with me on Twitter, Instagram and Facebook.

Read : Romance of the Manali-Leh Road

I had been telling them to make an escape from Kaza and perhaps get their oxygen levels checked if their AMS got worse. We chose to part ways at Tabo, and it would be a while till I found fellow travellers. While hanging around Kungri Monastery in Pin Valley, I met a German, a guy from Bombay and one photographer from Shimla. The German guy opted to stay back and teach kids in the village school, Shimla guy left one morning via the morning bus from Kaza to traverse the hair-raising road to Shimla via Reckong Peo again.

Read : 7 roadtrips for adventure junkies in India

Recommended reading : Chandra Taal – The Moon Lake in Spiti Valley

Me and the Bombay guy had made our way to Chandrataal (Also Chandratal) and walking the short distance of hardly 1 kilometre to the lake from the parking spot was proving to be impossible to cover for him. He drank water and said ‘So near yet so far’ and refused to go further. I walked slowly and spent considerable time at Chandratal lake enjoying splendid views over the crescent lake. It was blissful to walk around the periphery of the lake and soak in the silence and raw beauty.

There were two campsites near the Parking site where a tent cost around 400-500 Rupees per person including food. The number of tented accommodation had more than doubled on my next visit in 2014, and the camps had been pushed back too. I was happy to meet Jamaica there, we spoke about BCMTouring and he didn’t charge me money for black tea. Jamaica runs camps at Chandrataal lake. Camping is not allowed near Chandratal as it is a Ramsar Wetland site of International importance.

Read : A glimpse of Spiti in winter

I saw the bollywood movie Lootera recently and these lines have stuck with me : Conversation as it goes between the two main actors in the movie.

Female : If you get a chance
to do something else,
What would you do?
Tell me...
Male : I want to see Chandratal
before I die.
Female : Where is that?
Male : Beyond Manali. Deep in the Himalayas.
Clear blue waters, and not a sound.
None at all?...

It became a cold evening with blistery winds as we made our way to Batal. That was the first time I met Dorje uncle and Chandra auntie; Chandra dhaba was named after her. They have since become famous as chacha-chachi dhaba at Batal! Outside the dhaba, there were newspaper cuttings from June 2010 when the army and dhaba wallahs of Batal helped a group of tourists who were stuck here after a freak snowfall.

Read : The Fairytale Villages of Sangla Valley, Kinnaur 

We were told that he has accommodation and therefore very confidently arrived at Batal in the wilderness; the only place to stay for fifty kilometres either side. In those days, Losar had some common stay options and a PWD rest house. On the other side, Chatru (Also spelled Chhatru) had dhabas where one could sleep in emergencies.

Chacha-Chachi’s Chandra dhaba was a ramshackle structure with stones piled on top of each other, the height of the place barely letting us stand straight. Tarpaulins were being used as a a sturdy roof. Mattresses had been laid out on a bed of stones and we were supposed to share the place with 8-10 other people; mostly truck drivers.

It would cost only fifty rupees per person, Dorje said. That price included a mattress and blankets too. Wind blew fiercely through the gaps in the stone structure. We felt airborne even at seven in the evening. There were a few truck drivers who were drinking and dancing; the Bombay guy also asked for some local whiskey. Even I had a glass or two and we had a gala time chatting up with uncle, auntie and the truckers.

Check : The Dilemma of Responsible Travel : Secret Villages in the Himalayas

At around 9 pm, one madman truck guy smoked some marijuana joints with copious of alcohol and in one fell swoop grabbed his truck keys and said that he was going to cross Kunzum La at 4551m for some fun. Spiti is a wild land and certainly these are the kind of places where you can almost expect to see inexplicable behaviour. 

We were awestruck with the twinkling stars and the incredibly beautiful skies at dusk. Night had fallen, Batal felt like being in the middle of absolutely nowhere and Dorje uncle started telling us stories of a time when a huge group was stuck there in June many years ago as it had snowed closing all roads. The end of the story meant all was well. I now realise that chacha chachi’s goodness have turned them into national heroes!

There was no electricity and no sort of lights around. There were only solar powered torch lights. It seemed pitch dark but when the eyes got used to it, I could spot the milky way. It was very cold as Batal is at an altitude of almost 4000m. I went for a little walk to pee in the open as the moon made an appearance. My ears almost froze, protection from the cap notwithstanding.

Read : Ten foodie delights of Manali

Chandra auntie fed us delicious rajma chawal (lentil + rice) until we could eat no more. We were effectively in a parachute tent that swayed while the wind made swooshing sounds. The ‘bed’ turned out to be almost frozen, and we decided to sleep with all our jackets. Bombay guy didn’t even dare get out of his shoes. It sounds hopeless in retrospect and maybe it was the alcohol, but I couldn’t help but laugh at his discomfort!

Check : Top Ten Spiti Experiences

The wind howled, I decided to try and sit and gaze at the stars, sleep being hard to come by. It was as if the stars had decided to put on a show for me. It was just me and the universe. I felt so small and insignificant and free. I wondered how it might have been had we decided to stay back in the tented accommodation at Chandratal.

It was freezing cold as I saw the clock strike midnight, the clouds whisked past the snowy peaks forming pretty patterns and the milky way showed me colours I hadn’t known even existed. Gentle snowflakes fell for a brief moment making me unsure whether I was awake or dreaming! The night was too beautiful for me to attempt sleeping.

I was a little child again, fulfilling my dream of being an astronaut. The moon lake, supposedly the abode of Lord Shiva had commanded the stars to descend on earth. It was magic, only meant for me. 

Murakami’s words rang true in that moment :

‘Silence, I discover, is something you can actually hear.’

Good to Know : 

Distance between Batal & Chandratal : 14 kms along a dirt road that is motorable.

More details in the A Comprehensive Travel Guide to Spiti Valley

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