Marshrutka / Minibus from Tbilisi to Mtskheta and back

The distance between Tbilisi and Mtskheta is hardly 20-25 kms and takes less than an hour even with Tbilisi’s busy traffic. There are no buses that ply between Tbilisi and Mtskheta and even though the official Georgian train website shows that passenger trains stop in Mtskheta, be advised that Mtskheta railway station is quite far (about 2 kms) from the town itself and train schedules are sporadic making it an unwise choice to try and visit Mtskheta by train from Tbilisi. Mtskheta lies in the historical Mtskheta-Mtianeti region.

Regular marshrutkas (minibuses) ply between Didube to Mtskheta and are the easiest way to reach Mtskheta from Tbilisi. These marshrutkas are usually 16-20 seater Mercedes Sprinter vehicles and run every 30 odd minutes starting from 7 am from Didube station while the last marshrutka for Mtskheta departs from Didube at 8 pm (or sometimes even later in the summer). We took less than 30 minutes to cover the 18 km distance from Didube to Mtskheta. We were not sure if the driver would take us into town so we decided to get down as soon as we saw the walk-only pedestrian street! Later, we came to know that the last stop in Mtskheta is the parking spot at the end of the town quite close to Old Mtskheta.

Where exactly to take the marshrutka at Didube?

We had booked a small family run hotel quite close to Samgori / Isani metro station for two nights as our flight landed in Tbilisi at the uncomfortable hour after midnight. From Isani metro station, it was quite easy to figure the Tbilisi metro and reach Didube station where a few taxi drivers offered us a ‘cheap’ ride to Mtskheta for 20 Georgian Lari (GEL). We politely declined their (expensive) offer and promptly found the Mtskheta marshrutka ticket counter. After confirming the 2 GEL per person one way ticket price with locals who were also waiting for the marshrutka for Mtskheta, we paid and got our paper tickets. It is important to remember that the last marshrutka from Mtskheta to Tbilisi (Didube) runs at around 8-830 pm and is likely to be full so it is best to time your return to Tbilisi by daylight to avoid any unforeseen adventure!

In principle, you can hire a taxi for Mtskheta anywhere in Tbilisi or even use a bolt or maxim taxi (internet app-based taxis) but the prices are likely to be standard in Didube. If you are a group of four, then your best bet is to get early to Didube and negotiate a good price with a taxi driver to take you to Mtskheta and also include the other sights of interest like the Shio-Mgvime monastery and Zedazeni monastery.

Introduction to Mtskheta

Mtskheta is the former capital of Georgia and an ancient city that was established between the 1st and 5th Century BC. It is located at a enviable point of the confluence of Mtkvari (Kura river) and Aragvi rivers and jaw-dropping views of the confluence can be seen from Jvari Monastery. Mtskheta has a number of monuments included in the UNESCO World Heritage, that was bestowed in the year 1994. The old Mtskheta town around the centrally located Svetitskhoveli cathedral is a bucolic sight with cobblestone streets and green mountains in the backdrop. Mtskheta’s importance of being steeped in Georgian culture is evident in the fact that it is a favourite place for Georgians to get married and for pre-wedding photoshoots.

This travel guide to Mtskheta includes all that you need to know about visiting Mtskheta on a day trip from Tbilisi. It includes details on – how to reach Mtskheta and transport options from Tbilisi, must visit attractions in Mtskheta, time taken for exploring, food, wine tasting, shopping, and timing your return back to Tbilisi.

History of Mtskheta

Mtskheta is one of Georgia’s oldest towns and was the capital of the Kingdom of Kartli in East Georgia from the 3rd Century BC till the 6th Century AD when the capital was shifted to Tbilisi after the discovery of the sulphur springs in Abanotubani. Mtskheta gained importance as it lies at a strategic location; at the intersection of trade routes from Byzantium, Syria, Roman Empire, Silk Road that resulted in a rich commercial exchange with the mingling of different cultures. Mtskheta remains the spiritual and religious centre of Georgia since Mtskheta is where Christianity was first embraced as Georgia’s official religion in the year 337 AD.

Accorded the UNESCO World Heritage Site status, the Historical Monuments of Mtskheta include Jvari Monastery, Svetitskhoveli Cathedral and Samtavro’s Convent. These three medieval religious establishments are home to precious relics of Christianity; painted frescoes and burial sites with graves of monarchs and royalty from the times when Georgia was a Kingdom. History lovers are in for a treat as the region around Mtskheta is rich in Old Georgian architecture and is dotted with churches, caves, archaeological sites, ancient chapels, palaces and forts.

Svetitskhoveli Cathedral

Originally built in the 4th-5th Century AD, Svetitskhoveli Cathedral is a stunning sight and is likely to be your lasting memory of Mtskheta. The present structure dates to the 11th Century AD and the Orthodox cathedral complex exudes a calm and spiritual vibe with the greenery amidst the mountain view. It is a perfect example of the medieval architecture of the Caucasus. As you enter the spacious cathedral complex from the street, you can see a number of women selling fresh flowers. It was a weekday when we visited and found it quite amusing to come across a number of weddings and see newlyweds getting clicked in the green lawns with the cathedral. I can only imagine the scene of wedding parties on weekends! Although it can get pretty crowded inside Svetitskhoveli cathedral, take your time to gaze at the frescoes and carvings.

A number of Georgia’s most important monarchs are buried at Svetitskhoveli Cathedral, including King Vakhtang Gorgasali, the founder of Tbilisi. Qvevri pots (for winemaking) can be seen scattered in the monastery complex and also don’t miss the beautiful bell tower built in a different corner of the entrance. Candles and souvenirs can be bought at the monastery shop located on the right after entering. There are scarfs and skirts available at the entrance if you are inappropriately dressed for entering the church.

Jvari Monastery

Also called the Holy Cross Monastery of Jvari; Jvari Monastery is one of the oldest monasteries in Georgia (by some accounts, the holy wooden cross was erected here in the 5th Century). According to legend – in the early 4th century, St. Nino, a female Christian preacher erected a large wooden cross on this site where Jvari Monastery was built later. The distance between Mtskheta and Jvari Monastery is 12 kms and round-trip taxis are easily available in Mtskheta for about 20 GEL. The 6th Century church in Jvari Monastery is located on top of a mountain and is the most sacred and revered church in entire Georgia. The chief pull of Jvari Monastery is the bird’s eye view of entire Mtskheta old town overlooking the confluence of the Aragvi and Mtkvari rivers.

While the exterior of Jvari Monastery is quite rustic and simple; the symmetric building is built in what can be called old Georgian architecture. It is perched on a hilltop and hiking to Jvari Monastery is possible via a trail from the park in Mtskheta; but not recommended unless you have an entire day out. If you have organised a taxi from Tbilisi, it may be a good idea to visit Jvari Monastery in the end so that you can enjoy the incredible view of Mtskheta town with Svetitskhoveli Cathedral in the centre during sunset time! The sacred St. Nino’s spring locally revered to be a healing water source is a 15 minute hike from Jvari monastery.

Samtavro’s Convent

We had not planned our day in Mtskheta and wandered with an explorer’s air to find ourselves right in front of the Samtavro’s Convent. Samtavro’s Convent is a pleasant ten minute walk from main Mtskheta town. The monastery complex is set among gardens and has a relaxed, open vibe since it is relatively less crowded than the Svetitskhoveli Cathedral. The church at Samtavro’s Convent was originally established in the 4th century and has been restored a number of times. The present day building of the main church was built in the early 11th century. Samtavro’s convent houses the grave of King Mirian III – the king of Iberia (Kartli kingdom) who established Christianity as the official religion in Georgia.

We drank and filled our water bottle from the spring water where the locals were also quenching their thirst. There was also a small chapel – St. Nino Chapel (Tsminda Nino) which is an active chapel with frescoes and a priest inside. While walking around the monastery grounds, take notice of the bell tower as well. On the other side of the entrance is the church shop where visitors can buy candles and souvenirs. While going back, we noticed old men and women asking for alms from visitors while some others were selling some dried herbs(?)

Samtavro Necropolis

The ancient cemetery of Mtskheta; Samtavro Necropolis is located just 500m away or a 5 minute walk from Samtavro’s Convent and is the most peaceful stroll in Mtskheta. This burial ground has been in use since the 3rd Century BC and is steeped in history. It also served as the burial place for the royal family. The Samtavro Necropolis or mausoleum is a lesser visited monument and can be called an offbeat attraction in Mtskheta.

Antioch Church

Antioch Church is a 4th-5th Century church built on the banks of the Aragvi river just before its confluence with Kura river. To reach here, take a walk in the residential by-lanes in Mtskheta old town and turn right for the riverside. There are hardly any visitors to be seen at the relatively austere-sized Antioch Church (also called St. Stephen’s Church). The church complex is pleasing with the greenery especially after seeing the crowds on the tourist trail in Mtskheta. Enjoy the sweeping view of Jvari Monastery and savour the blissful breeze of the river. Do not miss the colourful frescoes in the interior of Antioch Church. Due to lesser popularity of this attraction, I can denote the Antioch Church to be an offbeat place to visit in Mtskheta.

Shio-Mgvime Monastery

The 6th Century Shio-Mgvime monastery is set into a rugged hillside and lies at a distance of 12 kms from Mtskheta. Caves used by monks for meditation can be seen all over the cliff face of the hillside. There is no marshrutka or shared transport to visit the Shio-Mgvime monastery from Mtskheta or Tbilisi, hence it is best to discuss and finalise a taxi with other tourists for visiting Jvari Monastery and Shio-Mgvime to make it economical. Take some time to roam around the scenic monastery complex (accommodating about 2000 monks at one time) to see beautiful gardens housing two churches. The interiors of the bigger church have perhaps the most well preserved frescoes in Mtskheta. The smaller church is called the Shio Cemetery Church; in honour of the monk Shio who founded this site. The church shop sells excellent quality of honey and beeswax candles made on site!

Exploring Mtskheta on Foot : Heritage Walk in Mtskheta

Rather than making a checklist, the joy of travel lies in the unplanned and serendipitous encounters. The quiet by-lanes of this historical old town of Mtskheta are apt to check the rich architectural style of Georgian houses with the courtyards shaded with grape vines, elaborately carved wooden balconies and the greenery. We were enamoured with the heritage houses sporting a faint red of autumn in the trees, vintage cars, art nouveau signboards and decided that Mtskheta is worth staying for a couple of nights (at least) if we come to Georgia again.

Among other places to see in Mtskheta; Bebri Tsikhe (abandoned fortress on a hillock) easily reached by a 20-30 minute walk from Mtskheta, Zedazeni Monastery, the colourful mosaic painting outside the Mtskheta Archaeological Museum (not open); St. Barbara Church, in a different direction – Armaziskhevi Archaeological Site, Armazi Tsikhe (fortress), Armazi Monastery and a few other churches around Mtskheta.

Souvenir Shopping in Mtskheta

There are pedestrian streets (ocassionally used by cars) around Svetitskhoveli Cathedral square where vendors set up market stalls and souvenir shops. Tourists can purchase churchkela, carpets, quirky fridge magnets, spices, fresh juice, wine ice-cream in summer and in winter, mulled wine. Also on offer are wine, chacha (grape liquor), souvenirs like scarfs, Georgian caps and hats, handmade dolls, ceramics and paintings. Among unique souvenirs on sale are kantsi – traditional Georgian drinking vessel (now mass-produced), tklapi (fruit snack), and hand-painted fridge magnets.

This market in Mtskheta is a very touristy area so it is good to be aware that prices quoted can often be very high. It may be a good idea to bargain subtly and see if the seller offers a better price. After having gone around the other parts of Georgia over a good 16 days, we realised some souvenir sellers were offering really good deals like 1+1 on fridge magnets for 2 GEL. Although I don’t recommend buying mass produced souvenirs; but I can understand if someone wants to buy, then the market in Mtskheta may turn out to be a good choice. We found the prices in Tbilisi for the same stuff are much higher.

Wine Tasting in Mtskheta

Winery Khareba located right on the opposite side of the entrance of Svetitskhoveli Cathedral. The wine tasting is free as long as you buy a bottle of wine. Prices are fixed (unlike some other places in Mtskheta) at Winery Khareba and the staff is quite helpful in suggesting which wine to buy.

Handy Tips :

Since Mtskheta is primarily a religious destination for locals, dress and behave appropriately.

Carry a water bottle. Time your visit to the washroom/toilets when you go to a restaurant. Try to visit Mtskheta on a Sunday morning while mass is being held, and savour the authentic cultural experience of polyphonic singing very unique to Georgia.

Festivals in Mtskheta

14th October Svetitskhovloba Festival.

How to Pronounce Mtskheta?

Georgian spellings and pronunciations can be mind jangling and none more so than ‘Mtskheta’. This tongue twister is actually pretty easy to pronounce. The locals seem to ignore the first two letters ‘Mt’ and rapidly say ‘skheta’ with a stress on the h. For us, it took a while getting used to since it was our first day in the country. Thankfully, we weren’t caught on the wrong foot and learnt to pronounce Mtskheta like the Georgians do before committing a faux pas!

How to go from Tbilisi to Mtskheta?

Metro to Didube station. After reaching Didube station, you have to go through a market to get to the other side to reach the exact point for the Mtskheta marshrutka / minibus and the ticket window. Buy the tickets for 2 Lari per person. Shared taxis also ply about 5 GEL per person.

From Mtskheta to Tbilisi : Marshrutka stop in Mtskheta to get back to Didube is on the main road while coming back from Samtavro’s Convent.

Staying in Mtskheta

Mtskheta has an old world charm and warrants much more than just a day visit. We have already decided we will spend a couple of nights in one of the charming homestays of Mtskheta whenever we return to Georgia.

Where to eat in Mtskheta?

There is a row of restaurants in front of the Svetitskhoveli Cathedral. We are a khachapuri and enjoyed fresh tap beer at one of those. Ornament Express was our choice but they had run out of food due to a party that day! Other recommended restaurants and cafés in Mtskheta are – Restaurant Check-in Garden, Café Tatin, Riverside Baginati, Tsiskvili. Favourite eateries of Tbilisi locals are on the way to Mtskheta after the diversion from the main road. I spotted a big crowd from the marshrutka both while coming and going. A few locals also got down on the way and while coming back our marshrutka was full but they took passengers for standing space.

Best time to Visit Mtskheta?

Mtskheta is accessible throughout the year. Summers are warm while a visit in peak winter might be a chance to see Mtskheta in snow!

Think I missed something in this Mtskheta Guide? Suggestions are welcome.

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Arriving at Tashkent Airport

Currency exchange (from USD to Uzbek Som) and sim card work is done in no time, and we sit trying to rest at the tiny airport. The idea is to either take a yandex taxi or to walk to the Tashkent Central Train Station when it is daylight. At about 4 am, a random conversation with one of the airport officials results in us heading to the waiting lounge area just outside the confines of the Tashkent airport. It is a heated area with ample seating space and a coffee shop. It is brimming with local Uzbekis holding massive flower bouquets who have come to welcome back friends and relatives.

The waiting area is an interesting place for people watching. The coffee counter has a vibrant look, and the cappuccino turns out excellent for about 23000 UZS (About USD $2). Even though it is still dark, we are bored of sitting in the waiting area and decide to step out at 6 am. We are greeted by Tashkent’s taxi guys and a frigid breeze. I am thankful to have kept a jacket at the last minute before boarding the flight in Delhi. After paying 10000 UZS (for the two of us) for using a public toilet, we feel regretful of having left the free area of the airport earlier than planned.

Morning Stroll to Stantsiya Central Tashkent Main Station

The dawn colours on the horizon invite us to start the 5 km walk to the train station and we oblige. Google maps suggests a walking route through a risky-looking train crossing; we take a longer way that crosses an early morning market and goes through residential areas. There’s a security check before entering the train station and our hungry tummies are massively delighted at seeing a small crowd at the cute café ‘Safia’ at the station. I join the queue and choose a croissant that seems to be a local favourite – for (only 9500 Uzbek soum) USD 0.75.

We reach the station earlier than planned because in popular tourist season entry to the train stations across Uzbekistan sometimes takes over 1 hour as the passports and tickets are checked; and luggage has to go through a security check.

It is so delicious that we are delighted with the prospect of returning to Safia since the Central Station in Tashkent is the main train station for our journeys in Uzbekistan. We take a coffee from one of the other cafes before showing the ticket to the security who ask us to sit in the heated waiting area. The chill in the air seems to be a direct effect of the western disturbance over the Himalayan region. There is a constant humdrum of travellers coming to catch the Afrosiyob train as is to be expected at the biggest train station in the capital of a country.

The glimmer of morning sunshine has been taken over by clouds and we take this as our cue to change into warmer clothes in the washrooms at the train station. At about 8 am, we head to the platform where the Sharq train to Samarkand and Bukhara is already stationed. It is quite cold in the open air, and we are joyful and relieved upon entering the cosy heated train.

Sharq Train from Tashkent to Samarkand

It is a chair car train with luxurious seating, charging points and ample space to store the luggage. The Uzbekistan Railways website allows you to choose the seats and ours came with a table! There is a boiling water container (samovar) at the entry of the coach and a round of lavender tea is duly made. No sooner do we sit down to enjoy the delicate taste and aroma of the flower tea; it begins to snow! We can barely believe our eyes. At first. the snow comes down gently. Then, the intensity increases, and the white flurries start coming down in droves.

Cold weather seems to be following us all along and we are beyond thrilled to see snow falling in the middle of March when it is supposed to be spring in Uzbekistan and time for the plum, peach, apple, apricot and other blossoms to bloom. The train does not start on time and the fellow passengers don’t seem to be bothered. After all, it is warm and cozy in the train coach! When it finally starts, we are treated to a visual delight of a white landscape in the outskirts of Tashkent.

Train stations (Vokzal) by the name of Jizzakh and Gulistan come, and I rush to the window to click photographs – of Christmas-like scenes and the name Gulistan. Gul is the Uzbek word for flowers – similar to India. It is to be just the start of cultural similarities between Uzbekistan and India. The Sharq train is supposed to reach Samarkand at 1230 pm but since it is delayed, we only pull into Samarkand Vokzal at 130 pm. The snowstorm continues and we freeze after getting out of the platform and making our way to the exit.

Arriving in Samarkand and our first Yandex Taxi

We want to get to a street before calling a Yandex taxi and manage to make a booking. The place where we stand outside the Samarkand train station is a little confusing since it is on an intersection of many streets, and we receive a phone call from the taxi guy. I am sure language troubles will render communication useless, so I thrust the phone with a request in the hands of a local family who are eager to help. We converse in perfect English and thank them profusely once the yandex taxi arrives! It is with a relieved feeling that we sit in the heated taxi, still comprehending the sudden snowfall and chilly weather in Uzbekistan in spring.

We reach our pre-booked accommodation in hardly 15 minutes from the Samarkand train station and are pleased with the success on booking our first yandex taxi in Uzbekistan. The family-run hotel is ready to receive us and quickly usher us into our heated room after the check-in process. It is a four bedded room and heating radiators have been installed in the bathroom and the room. There is ample space to keep our bags and since we have carried a small kettle with us, we make some Darjeeling autumn flush green tea to relax. We are extremely hungry and contemplate our next course of action even as the snowstorm rages on in Samarkand.

History and a bit about Samarkand

Samarkand, located on the edge of the Kyzylkum Desert is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities of the world. It has a recorded history that goes all the way back to the 7th Century BC. Samarkand was an important stop on the Silk Road (Silk Route) connecting Asia to Europe, and it prospered from the trade passing through the region. However, it was in the 14th Century during Amir Timur’s rule that Samarkand reached its pinnacle when it was made the capital (year 1370) of his vast empire. Timur had a great interest in architecture, culture and art. He patronized craftsmen and architects that led to the development of a unique architectural style known as Timurid architecture.

Samarkand’s decline was swift beginning from the year 1500 AD when the capital was shifted to Bukhara in early 16th Century, then numerous earthquakes played their part in the damage. Its fortunes reversed only when the Russians transformed Samarkand into a modern city, built a railway line and restored some of the heritage monuments. Samarkand was also the capital of the Uzbek Soviet Socialist Republic from 1925 to 1930 before being replaced by Tashkent. Samarkand was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in the year 2001.

Samarkand is the second biggest city in Uzbekistan and an important commercial and cultural centre. It boasts of an illustrious history; Samarkand was coveted and conquered by Alexander the Great, pillaged and destroyed by Genghis Khan, rebuilt to glory by Amir Timur.

I asked our hostess for a eatery recommendation, and with language communication issues could only understand that there is a small eatery nearby. When we go out trying to find the small eatery, there is no success, and it seems logical to walk to the street where we came from and try and find a restaurant there. Thankfully, the snowstorm has taken a breather, and we are sitting in the cozy interiors of one Shahjahon Milliy Taomlar. The food turns out to be excellent and we enjoy our first taster of Uzbek non (nan) and green tea. As soon as we step out of the restaurant, it begins snowing again and we are totally unprepared for this burst of cold air.

First sight of Registan Square

Our brains are not functioning properly, and we walk in an incomprehensible manner only to start walking back in the direction of our stay. We change the plan once we understand that a number of historical monuments of Samarkand are located quite close to where we are! It is hardly a walk of 10 odd minutes, and we are at the viewing deck of the Registan Square. White snow has covered the blooming spring flowers surrounding the Registan Square. Among the iconic places to photograph in Samarkand, Registan Square is top of the list.

The gloomy sky and the snowfall combine to make it a colourless evening and I am unable to feel the grandeur of the Registan Square of Samarkand. We choose to enter one of the art galleries nearby and I like the paintings and a particular copper water container. As expected, I am quoted a best price of some USD $1000 in the hope that I will indulge in the bargaining game, but I am just testing the waters and wise enough to know when to open my mouth!

We are hoping to explore and admire Samarkand’s dazzling mosques, azure blue-tiled madrasahs, majestic domes and minarets, bazaars withhandcrafted treasures and are really hoping the weather gods will behave and let us explore Samarkand in nice, sunny weather.

Amir Timur; Uzbekistan and India

For us, being in Uzbekistan is like going back to the history books. Amir Timur is proclaimed a national hero in Uzbekistan whereas our classroom textbooks mentioned Timur as a barbarian. His brutal massacre of Delhi in the year 1398 is the stuff of legends. Uzbekistan is also associated with the beginning of India’s Mughal history – Babur, who established the Mughal empire in undivided India is the great-great-great grandson of Amir Timur. How very interesting!

Guest House in Samarkand

We feel accomplished after the walk on this supremely chilly spring day and ultimately decide to go back to our cosy stay. It is interesting to observe local life as we walk through the non-touristy lanes. We are hoping that tomorrow the sun will be out so that we will be able to have a nice Samarkand experience, since our Afrosiyob train from Samarkand to Bukhara has already been booked for about 11 am, the day after. The hosts at the guest house are really kind and offer us green tea whenever they see us! We fill enough filter water from the dispenser and retire to our warm room for the night.

It is a nice feeling to relax while the weather is frighteningly cold outside. We also wonder why we don’t have this heating system in the cold regions of India. It would be great to have this central heating system at our home in Kullu Valley. After a hot shower, we dive into the cosy bed. It is prudent to do a bit of route mapping of Samarkand’s monuments and our supposed plan of action for tomorrow. The weather forecast is for an absolutely clear day and relishing the prospect of sunshine, we call it a night and are fast asleep by 8 pm!

First Breakfast in Uzbekistan – Yummy

It is a deep sleep and we wake up super fresh. We decide to take the day as it comes rather than trying to rush early. I open the door and am thankful to see blue skies and a sliver of sunshine across the sky. The clock shows 730 am and we are having a slow morning to get us ready for a proper exploration of Samarkand. The hostess has laid out a plethora of delicacies and we are really looking forward to a nice breakfast to set us up for a long day of walking and sights. We are down in the heated family room at 8 am and are excited to taste the delicious local cheese, fresh cucumbers and tomatoes, home-made pastry, pancakes, local honey, dry fruits, jams and so many other options. We wash down the yummy eats with repeated helpings of green tea, thank the family for the excellent breakfast and set out to explore Samarkand.

First up; we had spotted a dazzling blue dome on our way back last evening and upon researching realise it is a famous landmark. Unknowingly, it is our first glimpse of Samarkand’s spectacular blue tilework in the mellow evening light.

Attractions of Samarkand

Gur e Amir or Amir Timur Mausoleum

Rather than trusting our limited geography of Samarkand based on our previous day’s wanderings, we choose to use google maps to walk to the Gur e Amir Mausoleum. We go round and round in circles and have to finally ask some locals and are guided to the right place. The sun is out and Samarkand feels much better with blue skies. The blue dome comes closer and we are right in front of the Amir Timur Mausoleum. The richly carved entrance painted in (guess what!) deep shade of blue is dazzling and we make a mental note to return here in the evening when the sun will light it up.

Gur-e-Amir or Amir Timur Mausoleum is the final resting place of Amir Timur. It is set in beautiful green surroundings and feels like a different part of Samarkand since it is away from the other monuments. This building was originally built to be an Islamic school but a big stroke of luck made . I spot a ‘kassa’ ticket office sign to my left. I check the entry ticket price and it is almost USD $4 per person (UZS 50000). We decide to defer the purchasing of the ticket and walk around the permitted free area with the security guards in tow.

Amir Timur was supposed to be buried at Shakhrisabz (where he was born in 1336 AD) but he unexpectedly died of pneumonia while on war in China. Since snow had closed the passes to Shakhrisabz, he was buried in Samarkand instead. The Gur e Amir or Amir Timur Mausoleum also houses the graves of Timur’s two sons and two grandsons (including Ulugh Beg). We figure that evening is the best time to be here as the blue tiles of the mausoleum are lit in a soft orange hue with the setting sun. Then, as darkness sets in, the lights take effect making the Amir Timur Mausoleum look even more ethereal. We ambled here in the night again and were spellbound by the effect!

It is surreal to see the snow still clinging on the branches of trees (from yesterday’s snowstorm) and we walk around the narrow lanes around the blue domed mausoleum. The sunshine on the other side of Gur e Amir complex feels better and our surprise moment comes when we are on the opposite side of the monument and the door is open. I am happy to click a few pictures from my dslr camera and a bit surprised to see a handicraft shop in the frame. There are two local ladies and a caretaker from the nearby Ak-Saray Mosque soaking in the sunshine. We have limited conversations in broken english and the caretaker is interested in giving us a tour for the Ak-Saray Mosque’s ceiling for 10000 Uzbek soums each.

Aksaray Mausoleum

Located very close to the opposite side of the Amir Timur Mausoleum, we only come to know of its existence because of the gatekeeper who was chatting with the two ladies. Aksaray Mausoleum is an unassuming structure from the outside but apparently the painted ceiling inside is a must see. Amir Timur’s grandsons are buried at the Aksaray Mausoleum. The gatekeeper is offering us a tour of the inside along-with the famed ceiling for a price of UZS 10000 Uzbek Soum (USD 0.75) each. We first opt to walk around the Aksaray Mausoleum to see the Amir Timur Mausoleum with the blue skies. When we come back to the entrance, the door is open, and the gatekeeper is taking money from some Russian speaking tourists. It is a chance viewing of the blue and gold ceiling which looks stunning but also quite shiny making me wonder if it has been freshly painted!

Rukhobod Mosque or Rukhabad Mausoleum

We wander back to the Gur-e-Amir Mausoleum and start walking through the green park in front of it to spot the painted ceilings of a nearby mosque. Since it is the month of Ramzan, prayers are going on and we are pleased to gaze at the exquisitely painted wooden ceiling. It is the month of Ramadan and prayers are currently being held.

Rukhobod Mausoleum and Handicraft Center

Adjacent to the Ruhabad Mosque or the Rukhobod Mosque, there is a signboard for another monument. Since, we have no plan set in stone, we enter inside the compound and see that this is an artisan centre with about 15-20 of nice-looking shops set in the courtyard. It is one of the oldest mausoleums in Samarkand and made from bricks (in the year 1380) and was renovated recently.

It is bitterly cold after yesterday’s snowfall and half the shops are still closed at the relatively early hour of 930 am. The prices for the usual Uzbek souvenirs quoted at the shops here are quite reasonable and if Samarkand was not our first city, we might have ended up buying a number of souvenirs! We buy a cute handmade doll set for UZS INR 20000 (USD 1.6). On display and sale are miniature paintings, suzani embroidery table runners and bedcovers, embroidered jackets and Uzbek-style adras or ikat jackets.

Registan Square

Samarkand’s or even Uzbekistan’s claim to fame, the majestic Registan square is a collection of three monuments. From the viewing deck, the monuments are perfectly placed on the left, center and right so that you can gaze and gawk at the majestic sight in front of you! Even though we had stood at the viewing deck on the previous day and found Registan Square underwhelming; the blue skies and shining sun today combine to create sheer grandeur of this UNESCO World Heritage Site. There are still bits of snow that have not melted yet, and it is nice to see the bright colours of the blooming spring flowers to warm the heart. Entry tickets to Registan Square are available from a kiosk and cost UZS 80000 (Uzbek Soum) about USD $7.5.

History & Heritage of Registan Square

Registan Square is a history and architecture lover’s delight. It comprises of three monuments, here is the order as seen from the viewing deck – Ulugh Beg Madrassah on the left, the majestic Tilya Kori Madrassah in the centre and the Sher Dor Madrassah to the right. According to historical records, Registan Square was an important center of trade in the 15th-16th Century. The complex consisted of several mosques used for prayers and learning, caravanserais, bazaars, a khanqah (inn for Sufis). The small rooms surrounding the courtyard of all the three madrassahs in Registan Square which earlier served as learning cells now function as souvenir shops. The Registan entry ticket is valid for the entire day, so it’s recommended to take the tickets back when you present it to the guards so that you can visit Registan in the evening same day without paying again for the same.

The ground floor rooms were initially classrooms and the upper floor was used as sleeping quarters for the students. Now these cells are creatively used by souvenir shops selling intricate suzanis, ikat, pottery, jackets, scarves and other Uzbek handicrafts. Registan Square (and other monuments of Samarkand) was damaged by earthquakes numerous times and the monuments have been heavily restored, like many other monuments across Samarkand. Tickets for Registan Square include entrance to the three madrassahs. An almost unknown fact is that Registan Square has a gory past attached to it as it was also used for public executions at one point of time.

Ulugh Beg Madrassah (15th Century) – It is the oldest of the three madrassahs of the Registan Square; originally built very swiftly in a short period of three years (1417-1420) AD by Ulugh Beg, grandson of Amir Timur. Ulugh Beg was a mathematician and an astronomer and that is evident in the depiction of the sky and stars embellished on the entrance-arch tile work of the monument. In the courtyard, there are approximately 50 cells, where about 200 students were taught astronomy and mathematics. It is possible to climb to the second floor of the madrassah for a nice bird’s eye view of the Registan Square.

Tilya Kori Madrassa also (Tilla Kari Madrassah) (17th Century)- The golden ceiling of the Tilya Kori Madrassah is special and a hallmark of this monument. Shaybanid Emir Yalangtush built this mosque that is adorned with gold leaf. It served as a caravanserai for travellers and was the last of the three monuments built on the Registan Square. Tilya Kori literally means gold covered and this refers to the spectacular golden ceiling! An interesting trivia about this monument is that while the elaborate gilded ceiling in the Tilya Kori Mosque’s central chamber looks like a hollow dome, it is in fact flat and is merely an optical illusion. Photos of the Registan square before renovation are on display in one of the exhibits in the Tilya Kori Madrassa.

Sher Dor Madrassah (17th Century) – Located on the right of Tilya Kori Madrassa, the Sher Dor madrassa could be said to be less popular among the photo-ops. Its chief differentiator is the mosaic tile work that shows the sun, a tiger and deers on both sides of the entrance arch. While Islam prohibits the depiction of living beings, a Zoroastrian past is visible on the façade of the Sher Dor Madrassah where the animals are depicted.

Entrance Fee & Timings : 80000 Uzbek Soum (USD 6.5), open from 7 am till late night.

Best time to visit Registan Square : Early morning before the tour groups arrive and sunset time.

Tip : Emirhan Restaurant has a fabulous view of the Registan Square!

Night Lights at Registan Square – Registan Sound and Light Show

We return to Registan Square in the evening and are welcomed with an ethereal evening light casting an orange hue on the monuments. The golden façade of the Tilya Kori Madrassah looks even more mesmerising during sunset time. The wind is ferociously cold and we are caught unawares. We want to enjoy wandering around the monuments of Samarkand in the lights and therefore decide to quickly head back to our guest house; wear another layer and come back to the Registan Square.

We take a shortcut and are back in less than 20 minutes. Of course, a few minutes of the sunset are missed, but it made more sense to be ready for the cold since it has snowed only the day before and the temperature is close to negative. When we come back, it is a surreal sight with the majestic Registan Square lit up in perfect yellow-orange lights. At about 7 pm, the Light and Sound show started and the monuments of Registan Square are getting lit up in myriad colours. The evening lights and Light and Sound show is best watched from the viewing deck or from the steps where you can relax as well!

Entry : UZS 60000, or simply watch it for free from the steps or the viewing deck!

Heritage Walk in Samarkand

Starting from the Registan Square in Samarkand, this self-styled heritage walk is via a cobblestone path that connects the major historical and must-see monuments in Samarkand. We take a right at the end of the Islam Karimov statue park and continue on the pedestrian walking area. There are souvenir shops and a few restaurants, chaikhanas, milliy taomlar (Uzbek national foods) eateries lining both the sides. I highly recommend exploring the heritage attractions of Samarkand by walk as it gives a more authentic feel. The heritage walk is quite convenient as it starts on the Islam Karimov street and continues to the Shah I Zinda necropolis.

As we start the walk, we come across a conveniently located cafe serving ice-creams, cold drinks, snacks and other basic stuff. It is perhaps in preparation for the summer when it is the most popular season for tourists to visit Samarkand and the weather starts becoming hotter. The souvenir shops on the left and the right look the same with the usual suzani, machine made ikat, pottery knick-knacks, jackets, bags and the likes. We spot a few interesting eateries and enter one of them; the setting is impeccable with a topchan (Uzbek style sitting) bed flanked by a tree resulting in dappled sunlight.

Craftsmen’s Centre on Islam Karimov Street

While on the heritage walk on the cobblestone path, we see a signboard for Craftsmen’s Centre. Always keen on handmade arts and crafts, we immediately head to the spacious building. The courtyard is beautiful with plants and trees and is surrounded by artisan shops. The potter crafting delicate blue pieces has a lovely collection, and the metal artisan chiseling plates is engrossed in work. Some of the shops are closed, but we are pleased to browse the excellent collection at Art Gallery Happy Bird. The leather workshop guy has excellent stuff as well but is a tad too expensive.

Bibi Khanym Mosque or Bibi Khanum Mosque

As you keep walking on the heritage trail for 5-7 minutes from the Craftsmen’s Centre, you come cross the Bibikhanum Teahouse on your left and reach the mosque which is another 2 minute walk. The first impression as you walk towards the Bibi Khanym Mosque is massive. At 41 metres, it was one of the highest and biggest mosques in the world when it was built in the 15th Century. This mosque was largely financed by Timur’s spoils resulting from the invasion of India. Historical records state that a huge number of slaves and about 100 elephants were brought from India for its construction. The size of the Bibi Khanym mosque is so massive that it had started crumbling even before the construction was entirely finished! We are finally able to capture the huge mosque in one frame from the opposite Bibi Khanym Mausoleum.

The architecture style of Bibi Khanym Mosque is said to have been inspired from Iran with four towering minarets and a massive dome. The interior is filled with intricate tile-work like the other historical monuments of Samarkand. This mosque was heavily damaged in an earthquake in 1897 which caused significant destruction across Samarkand. In 1970, work began on restoring it almost entirely from scratch with speedy culmination after Uzbekistan’s independence in 1991. Bibi Khanum, who ordered the mosque to be built was Amir Timur’s Chinese wife. She was a Chagatai princess by the name of Saray Mulk Khanum and was a direct descendent of Genghis Khan.

Entry fee: 50000 UZS (4 USD)

Bibi Khanym Mausoleum

Lying opposite to the Bibi Khanym Mosque, the mausoleum is the place where Bibi Khanym (Amir Timur’s wife) was buried. It is a simple looking small building compared to the other monuments in Samarkand. The lady at the entrance asked us for UZS 10000 per person entry which we promptly refused since it is not a ticketed monument. Later, I saw some foreigners pay UZS 25000 per person for entering! It is best to see the Bibi Khanym Mausoleum from the outside and be away from the touristy trail for a few quiet moments from the bustle of Bibi Khanym mosque.

Siyob Bazar (Siyob Bozor)

Siyob bazaar lies at a stone’s throw from Bibi Khanym Mosque on the Samarkand Heritage Walking Trail. It is Samarkand’s largest and oldest bazaar; with a history spanning about 2000 years! As you enter, you can spot the ladies to your left selling fresh dairy produce like paneer, cheese, kurt and varieties of halva. An entire section of the market is filled with dry-fruit sellers, vegetable sellers, fruit sellers, and spice sellers as well. The covered section has a couple of souvenir shops that try to sell average quality overpriced stuff, so better to steer clear of them! In comparison, the smaller shops lining the periphery of the bazaar have varied collections and might be a better place to bargain for some unique Samarkand and Uzbek souvenirs.

The pistachio halva (that tastes like a sweet nougat) is a popular takeaway from Samarkand; we tasted it at Sharq Halva the previous day and did not like it at all! So be wary of touristy gimmicks and try a taster before buying. Seasonal fruits and vegetables are a good buy at the Siyob Bazaar; I highly recommend trying the apples as Uzbekistan grows a large variety of tasty apples priced at about UZS 12500 (USD 1) per kilo.. Among other offerings are dry fruits, nuts, baked non (Samarkand non breads are special), handicrafts, caps, tubeteikas, glazed pottery plates and lots more. Depending on the season, watermelons and muskmelons in summer and grapes in autumn.

We are a bit tired with the walks and exploration and opt to sit at one of the truly local eateries in Siyob Bozor. Sunshine is streaming in, and the seating is Uzbek style tapchan. The eatery is crowded with locals, and we are glad to experience a restaurant/cafe in true Uzbekistan or Central Asian style. A pot of green tea and freshly baked non costs about UZS 10000 (USD 0.75). I nibble on an apple that we had just bought from one of the sellers at Siyob Bozor. Also, the best part about Siyob Bazaar is that entry is free! (Take that as a pun, as with ticketed entry everywhere – nothing or nowhere is free in Samarkand!)

Hazrat Khizr Mosque

Rejuvenated after a break, we continue our stroll and come to an intersection. Spring flowers are blooming in a range of glorious colours on the pavement. On the left is a majestic looking mosque on an uphill climb while the straight path would lead to the ruins of ancient settlement Afrasiab. There are people standing in the richly painted wooden balcony. As we climb the stairs, the snow-clad mountains are visible in the far distance. The sky is absolutely clear after the snowstorm of the previous day. We are excited at the prospect of a bird’s eye view of Samarkand from the vantage point of the Hazrat Khizr Mosque. Bibi Khanym Mosque’s real splendour is visible from one of the balconies and on the other side are partial views of Shah-I-Zinda necropolis and one can also spot the ruins of Afrasiab in the far distance flanked by the snow mountains.

The mosque looks recently renovated and has an interesting mix of blue tiles and intricate geometric patterns combining to create an inviting and unique architectural style. The open courtyard of the mosque is spacious, and is dotted with several smaller enclosures. We rush to the balcony and are in awe of the stunning painted wooden ceiling. The ancient and modern blend of Samarkand is beautifully juxtaposed with the three-hundred-degree view of the snowy mountain ranges. As we walk in the central courtyard, a friendly Uzbek family played a bollywood song and we have a little dance with them before clicking pictures!

Entry to Hazrat Khizr is free!

History of Hazrat Khizr Mosque

Hazrat Khizr mosque is one of the oldest buildings in Samarkand and was originally built in the 8th century. It is named after the Sufi saint Hazrat Khizr. The mosque built in the 8th Century was destroyed and burnt to the ground by Genghis Khan in his attack of 13th century. It was partially rebuilt in 1854 and was recently restored in the 1990s.

Islam Karimov Mausoleum

In the open courtyard of the Hazrat Khizr Mosque, there is a gleaming mausoleum of Uzbekistan’s first president Islam Karimov, who died in 2016. The mausoleum was built in 2018 but totally blends in with the architectural style as the other parts of the Hazrat Khizr mosque. Entry fee inside the tomb is UZS 20000.

Shah I Zinda or Shakhi Zinda

Shah-I-Zinda necropolis is a collection of ornate mausoleums built from the 11th to 19th Century. It is an art lover’s dream come true with some of the most exquisite blue tilework in entire Central Asia and each mausoleum looking more elaborate (and bluer) than the others! Some of the mausoleums are for important members of the royal family from the Timurid era while the most stunning architecture dates from the 14th and 15th century. Shah I Zinda literally translates to ‘tomb of the living king’ which refers to the grave of Qusam-ibn-Abbas (cousin of Prophet Mohammed), who is said to have brought Islam to Samarkand in the 7th Century.

Among the most impressive sights in the Shah I Zinda necropolis complex are the Shodi Mulk Oko Mausoleum, Shirin Beka Oka mausoleum, Ali Nesefi mausoleum and Amirzadeh mausoleum. Remember to dress conservatively covering your shoulders and knees as this is a sacred site.

Note: Even though Shah I Zinda complex’s tombs survived more than seven centuries with only minor upkeep, recently almost all the tombs were controversially restored in 2005. Hence a word of caution, if you think everything is old; then the answer is no. In simple words, much of the mind-blowing mosaic and terracotta work you see today is not original and has been highly restored.

Afrasiyab Settlement Ruins

The Afrasiyab Settlement in Samarkand, Uzbekistan is an important historical site that dates to the pre-Islamic period. It is believed to be the ancient city of Marakanda, founded in the 7th century BC by the Sogdians, a Central Asian civilization. Samarkand was a prosperous city on the hill until it was destroyed by the Mongol invasion in the 13th Century. Afrasiyab ruins are reached by a walk – we continue on the same heritage walking trail past the Hazrat Khizr mosque. The distance is about 1.5 kms and it is a pleasant walk that should take about 20 minutes.

Afrasiyab Museum

Adjacent to Afrasiyab settlement ruins, the Afrasiyab museum should be visited first to get a real sense of the ruins. Among the ancient things on display is a damaged 7th-century fresco of a Zoroastrian Nowruz celebration. The Afrasiyab museum is dedicated to the history of Samarkand and the surrounding region. The museum also showcases a number of treasured artefacts like murals, ceramics and textiles from the Sogdian period, that offer insights into the life and culture of the people who lived during that time.

Entry : 40000 UZS

Observatory of Ulugbek

Constructed in 1429 by Ulugbek, this was the first astronomical observatory in Central Asia before it was destroyed in 1445 by religious fanatics. Ulugbek was a keen astronomer and was able to calculate the length of a star year to a one-minute difference to our current calculations, almost 600 years ago! There is a museum in the same complex right next to the observatory, where visitors can learn more about the observatory and see the remnants of the instruments from the 15th Century.

Ulugbek’s Observatory is a bit far (about 6 kms) from the other attractions of Samarkand and it is best to take a Yandex taxi to go there.

Entry : 40000 UZS (About 3.2 USD)

Offbeat Samarkand

If you are staying in Samarkand for more than 2-3 days in the high season and are bored of seeing the monuments with the tourist hordes; here’s your chance to find some solace at some of these offbeat sights in Samarkand.

Gumbaz Synagogue

About 10 minutes walk from Shah I Zinda, tucked in a by-lane lies Gumbaz Synagogue that was built in 1891 for Samarkand’s Jewish community. The inner domed hall of the synagogue has a beautiful ceiling. In the present day, hardly 50 Jews remain in Samarkand and there are no fixed days for the minyan ceremony. Caretaker may ask for UZS 50000 per person in the name of donation!

Islam Karimov Statue

In the morning when we were roaming in the periphery of the Registan Square, I notice a colourful sight in a nearby green space and we decide to go there later. Hiding in plain sight, this bronze statue is a tribute to the late first president of Uzbekistan, who ruled for 25 years. The lush garden is popular with local Samarkand folks for wedding photography of newlyweds! The Islam Karimov statue is in the middle of the park. Come in the evenings to observe the kids take joy rides on the tricycles. A variety of popcorn is available for sale on the mobile carts.

Cemetery or Kabristan

Hardly one minute distance from the Hazrat Khizr mosque lies Samarkand’s main cemetery. It is a fascinating place to walk with interesting epitaphs and relative quiet from the other surrounding chaotic and popular monuments of Samarkand. The cemetery has novel views of Shah I Zinda and the Afrosiyab ruins can be seen in the far distance, flanked by snowy mountains in the far distance.

Museum of Regional Studies, Samarkand

Located a stone’s throw away from the Central Park, the Museum of Regional Studies in Samarkand is devoted to Uzbek Jewish history. The museum is located in an old Jewish merchant’s house, and old photos of Samarkand’s sizeable population of Bukhara and European Jews are on display.

Entrance : 25000 UZS, extra for photography

Jewish Cemetery

We were pleasantly surprised at coming across the doors of the Jewish Cemetery in Samarkand with an ornamental gateway engraved with the star of David. The cemetery is well maintained and is hardly 5 minutes’ walk from Shah I Zinda, along the Islam Karimov street. Based on my visit, there is no entry fee.

Samarkand Bukhara Silk Carpets Factory

One of the highlights of our explorations in Samarkand was stumbling upon the riches of Samarkand Bukhara Silk Carpets Factory! I can count myself lucky to see the highest quality of artisanship creating and showcasing priceless handmade carpets. We were given a proper tour of the weaving process, details about using natural dyes and also shown the different varieties of kilims, rugs, silk rugs, sozani, jackets and many more handicrafts! There was no pressure to buy and that is a refreshing change as tourist hotspots invariably try to exhort money from you.

Even if you are not planning to buy a kilim or carpet or do any shopping whatsoever, I highly recommend visiting this place to observe the process of high quality carpet weaving. The Samarkand Bukhara Silk Carpets factory is a 10 minute walk from the Jewish Cemetery.

Central Park in Samarkand

If you are bored of visiting Samarkand’s popular attractions with busloads of tourists and want to just get away from the action and spend some time like the locals do, then Central Park is a good place. It is a lovely green space with plenty of flowers in spring and is a hotspot for children who come to enjoy bike rides in the evening. A nice park for a relaxed walk and get rejuvenated to get back to Samarkand’s main attractions!

Wine Tasting in Samarkand at Khovrenko Wine Factory

Visiting the Khovrenko wine factory is an interesting insight in the world of Uzbek wine. The Khovrenko winery has been making wines since 1868. The in-house Samarkand Museum of winemaking has some interesting photos of Soviet wine production in the 1930s. The wine tasting is priced at UZS 100000 to UZS 200000 and includes 3 white wines, 4 red wines, 2 Uzbek cognacs and 1 aperitif.

Statue of Amir Timur

A chance find, I spotted this statue in the middle of a green park while heading back to the Samarkand train station. This majestic statue of Timur seated on a throne is located very close to the Amir Timur mausoleum and is the start of Samarkand’s modern part built by the Russians in the 20th Century.

Day Trips from Samarkand

Meros Paper Making Factory in Konigil, Samarkand

Located about 10 kms from Samarkand in Konigil village, Meros paper making factory is home to a team of skilled craftsmen employing traditional methods to create handmade paper. Visitors can watch the one hour workshop process (UZS 15000) from start to finish to learn about the traditional technique of making paper. The souvenir shop has interesting accessories for sale created from handmade paper. Konigil village is a nice place to visit if you are staying in Samarkand for more than 3 days. There’s also a pottery making workshop nearbuy in Konigil.

Entry : 15000 UZS

Among other offbeat sights and attractions in Samarkand, the 9th Century mausoleum of Imam al-Bukhari located about 25 kms from Samarkand, State Museum of History of Culture, Urgut town’s bazaar and Chor-Chinor garden about 40 kms from Samarkand.

Day Trips from Samarkand

Shakhrisabz, the birthplace of Amir Timur (a village nearby) is a UNESCO heritage site with many notable attractions like Aksaray Palace, Tomb of Amir Timur (he was buried instead in Samarkand), Kok Gumbaz mosque, Amir Timur museum and other historic attractions. Shakhrisabz (also called Shahrisabz) is about 90 kms from Samarkand and can be reached by a shared taxi (called marshrutka).

Practical Tips for Visiting Samarkand

Best Weather to visit Samarkand?

Weather wise, mid-March to May and mid-September to October is the best time to visit Samarkand when the temperature ranges between 32 degrees maximum to 8 degrees minimum. It is the most popular time for tourists and expect crowds everywhere you go. June, July and August are the hottest months when the temperature in Samarkand hits over 36 degrees and sometimes reaches 42 degrees. Spend the afternoons cooling down if you choose to go during the summer season.

December and January are the coldest months in Samarkand with night temperatures plummeting to -15 degrees. If you are used to the cold, it could be a great time to see the monuments in white snow. You will encounter almost zero tourists and have the sights of Samarkand to yourself. The months of November and February are cold but bearable and can serve as the perfect shoulder season for visiting Samarkand. Indoors across Uzbekistan are centrally heated, so no problem for the chilly nights if you want to visit when there are lesser tourists. Pack heavy winter jackets, caps, socks and thermals if you choose to travel in the cold weather as the dry Central Asian cold can be pretty rough!

Accommodation in Samarkand?

There are a number of homestays, hotels, hostels, guest houses to stay close to the main sights in Samarkand. Price options for backpackers, budget stays, luxury accommodation are plentiful. We had booked a family run guest house which turned out to be excellent. It is best to book in advance in high season.

How to reach Samarkand?

Samarkand has an international airport and is very well connected by road and railway.

From Tashkent by train – Multiple train options like Afrosiyob and Sharq from Tashkent to Samarkand throughout the day. Recommended to book in advance. Book from the official Uzbek Railways website.

From Bukhara by train – Multiple train options like Afrosiyob and Sharq from Bukhara to Samarkand throughout the day. It is best to book in advance directly from the Uzbek Railways website.

Where to eat in Samarkand?

Some of the best eateries in Samarkand are not on the touristy trail. Milliy Taomlar eateries serve traditional dishes in a relaxed seating. Restaurants and cafés located close to the attractions are a hit and miss and its best to check the latest reviews before deciding on a place.

Even though I have tried to cover everything that came to mind, I am welcome to suggestions to make additions to this travel guide to Samarkand.

In a way it felt like Samarkand had saved its best for the last. As the modern Afrosiyab train rolled onto the platform, deep-throated, guttural cries of ‘Samarkand non, Samarkand non’ rang in my ears. There was a bit of Silk Road still left in Samarkand. Perhaps I will return someday (in better weather?) to let the city change my opinion.

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The year is 2023. The monsoon months of July and August have brought copious amounts of rain to many parts of Himachal Pradesh and Kullu Valley (where we live). A number of roads have been washed away and connectivity is seriously hampered.

We have returned from a short trip to Kazakhstan in mid-August. There was a family event for which we travelled to Jaipur and were duly back in Delhi on the 20th. There had been another deluge in Kullu region and the roads near Pandoh (Mandi) were badly damaged. Of course, Volvos were only plying till Mandi and there was no clarity thereafter on the status of any of the alternate roads. Acquaintances spoke of 8-10 hour traffic jams as a normal course of life from Mandi to Kullu and we were not prepared to get stuck in a traffic jam as it could be risky with the continuous rain.

We had come back to our home in Dobhi after the torrential downpour in July and the ordeal of changing 4-5 buses from Delhi felt like small trouble compared to the situation at hand. I called the HRTC bus guys and private Volvo operators everyday in the hope of a positive update. It was tricky to keep checking the weather predictions and try to leave from Delhi to Mandi in a Volvo, reach the bus stand at 6 am and hope for the best. The private Delhi to Manali Volvo guys had completely stopped their services while some of them were plying till Mandi.

We were getting restless; especially because of the lack of clothes as we had gone to Kazakhstan on a cabin baggage only flight and had literally nothing to wear! Every other day we would decide to leave the next day and we would get a ‘jahan ho, wahin raho‘ (stay where-ever you are) message from the HRTC guys in Mandi. It was 25th and we were counting days on our fingertips; our time in Delhi at our friends’ home was fun but we really really wanted to get back home to Kullu.

It must have happened by fluke and I don’t even remember how it came about but I saw some notification about an airline sale. A random 1-minute search revealed next-day’s flight from Delhi to Leh at INR 2000 odd and for the moment I disregarded it as a long shot. However, next day when there was no positive news of the Mandi to Kullu road, we decided enough was enough and booked our flights for the next morning.

We were pretty excited about having scored cheap flights for Leh in the green summer season of August and the fact that there were hardly any tourists there. Even though we wanted to get back home to Kullu, it was decided that we would acclimatise in Leh for 4 days and our return was planned for 30th August, which was a holiday for Rakshabandhan. I was poorly packed and did not even have a jacket but since it was summer in Ladakh, I hoped the weather gods would behave!

Read : Durbuk to Merak Village – Winter in Ladakh

It was an early morning flight and we landed in Leh with the spirit of adventure at having booked a last-minute trip! I had been a bit naive to assume that the Leh to Manali bus service was functional and was taken aback with the information after reaching that the bus service had been stopped a while ago. Homestay/hotel/guest houses were all available and this time we pre-booked a guest house because this trip had a different agenda.

We landed in Leh on a cold and cloudy morning and I was thankful that the sun was out as soon as we got out of the airport. The room was cozy and we fell asleep in no time. After waking up past noon, we strolled to the main bazaar in search of food. Leh felt like it used to be in the old days; there were no Indian tourists to be seen – while old timers from across the world were roaming in the streets. It suddenly felt like the best decision; to go back home via Leh!

Since we were not acclimatised, the walk to the market was tiring enough but I could not resist having a stroll near Jama Masjid and checking what the village ladies had for sale since it was their summer and the only farming season in Ladakh! I was in luck since it was apricot time and the tiny orange fruits were flooding the market. Among other things, there are few better things in life than tasting these alluring little beauties and one of the varieties grown in Leh (Raktse Karpo) have also been recently awarded with a GI tag.

It feels nice when your fellow shoppers are old wizened lamas. One of them also mentioned that I must buy the raktse-karpo variety of apricots that has been awarded the GI tag. The prices of apricots have really gone up in the last 10-15 years. I faintly remember that the best quality dried apricots from both the Khaltse and Turtuk (Halman) region used to cost about INR 250-400 per kilo. I was shocked to notice that in the present day the fresh apricots were priced at INR 250 per kilo while the raktse karpo variety was priced at INR 400 per kilo.

It was about 5 in the evening and a cold breeze started blowing. I bought a kilo of the apricots and got excited about seeing one of the village ladies (ama) selling a cute watermelon. It reminded me of Kazakhstan and the watermelons and muskmelons of Central Asia. The whole pavement was filled with fresh produce and I secretly wished to buy everything! Since we had had a late lunch, there was no appetite to go out for dinner again. Also, we were a bit tired and felt it would be best to return to the guest house and call it an early night.

I spotted a foreigner buying carrots and quickly got the idea to carry back a bunch of lettuce leaves and half kilo fresh and juicy carrots. The evening skies as we walked back were incredible and it had really become quite chilly. We were glad that the rooms of the guest house had a traditional wooden roof with poplars. The solar geyser had warmed up the water quite nicely even though the sun wasn’t at its strongest throughout the day.

We gobbled up the carrots like rabbits would do (get the gist!) and the fresh lettuce leaves were really fresh and tasty. A few apricots served as dessert and a good night’s sleep beckoned after a lovely and relaxing hot water bath. Next day onwards, it was business as usual as we felt well acclimatised but still decided to spend our days in Leh with the aim of returning home on 30 August. Since the tourist rush in Leh was confined to long-term foreigners, the Manali and Leh taxi unions were having a tiff about plying the current tourists and the stand-off resulted in an all-too familiar situation of confusion.

This is another part of the adventure of travelling on the Manali-Leh road – the feeling of uncertainty. The HRTC Manali-Leh bus service had been suspended due to the road issues and according to the in-charge officer in Keylong due to the lack of passengers in the bus. I found that surprising because the Manali-Leh bus had always been a favourite with foreign tourists, migrants and locals of Changthang region who travelled in the bus till a certain point.

I enjoyed doing the usual Leh things; even the hitherto touristy stuff like climbing Shanti Stupa for sunset views because there were hardly any tourists. There were everyday walks in the bazaar; finding craftspersons and artisans making pabu (Ladakhi shoes) and thigma (woollen tie and dye) while connecting with all ladies self-help groups who crafted shawls from handspun pashmina. It was nice to visit an old favourite Tenzing Dickey Tibetan restaurant for an early dinner one day, realising it was still the same tiny eatery serving home-made thukpa. We had a great conversation with a travelling Swiss couple over the meal and ended up meeting them numerous times over the next couple of days.

The night skies were a joy to walk back and we were happy to shift our stay to a nearby homestay the next day. I walked from the nanwai gali (lane of bread-bakers near Jama Masjid) and bought every different kind of bread and biscuits that they made. One of the nanwai’s made chochwor (of Kashmir fame, also called telvor) and that was really delightful. We ate our lunches at cafés that served traditional Ladakhi dishes like chutagi, skyu, khambir, drapu, tangthur, paba and the likes and relished the offerings while gawking at the surreal blue skies that invariably had a background view of Leh Palace.

To find the actual status of the shared taxis from Manali to Leh, we head to Bomb Guard area via the local bus that plies to Choglamsar. We gathered that there was no clarity and they were quoting astronomical prices of INR 3500 per person for tempo travellers leaving in the evening, travelling all night and reaching Manali in the morning next day. We were very uncomfortable with this idea of travelling in the night and tried to play smart by taking direct phone numbers of HP-01/K (Kullu) numbered taxi guys. A few drunk taxi drivers tried to play spoilsport and that was our cue to leave.

With zero clarity, we came back to Leh bazaar and opted to ignore the current problem on hand – hoping that as the day of our departure approached; we would get lucky. Two years ago, in 2021 we had returned from Leh to Manali on October 15th and were able to get two shared taxi seats in the middle row of a SUV. I continued on my merry apricot eating spree and we were happily gobbling a kilo every day and saving the kernels to be converted into a chutney back home in Kullu.

Read : Spending the ‘Lockdown’ Summer of 2021 at Yuthok Homestay, Kullu Valley

On the 29th, we decided to spend a relaxed day because in the absence of a fixed plan for our return it was important that we had the physical strength to do anything that the situation demanded. On top of everything, we had small backpacks and a few orders for Indilocal meant extra luggage. We were pleased to have a final parting meal in the evening at the gorgeous Bon Appetit restaurant in the stunning outdoor seating. The weather was crisp and there was a faint feeling of early autumn in the air.

I had called the phone numbers of the HP-01/K guys gathered from the previous day but none of them confirmed any other passengers. One of the guys had two confirmed passengers (which later turned to be false) in a Swift Dzire, but I was not comfortable going in a vehicle with less ground clearance especially after the recent rains. Once we reached our homestay, we packed our bags and paid the amount since we were supposed to go very early.

Our uncertainty reached an unprecedented level as the clock passed 9 pm and it finally dawned on us that we were on our own and that we needed to have a worst-case scenario and actually execute it. To make a last-gasp try, I called one guy whom I had not been able to contact and he told me to anyhow reach the Upshi check-post. He was positive that we are highly likely to be able to hitch a ride at the Upshi Check Post. He also told me that a bridge near Sarchu had become inoperable and the alternate route was a tad risky. Thankfully, I chose to completely ignore the above piece of information.

Keeping the heightened anxiety levels in check, we somehow called it a night and slept with a lingering feeling of helplessness and adventure! At the present moment, the whole idea of coming to Leh started feeling like a failed attempt or we had to be mentally prepared to shell out an exorbitant sum of money; all for the simple act of returning to our home in Kullu. It was a much needed rest in the night as we got up and running before daybreak and were thankful to the homestay guys to bring us a kettle of hot drinking water so early in the morning.

The weather was quite cold and the water for a shower was not yet rendered hot by the solar heater. I was relieved to find the water was lukewarm at best and not bitterly cold. The shower roused me awake and we discussed that since we have not had any phone call from a taxi guy, our only way out is through hitching rides. We were aware that buses in Ladakh plied every morning to different regions in Changthang, Nubra Valley, Kargil region from the LBOC Bus stand. The clock struck 630 and we realised that we were already running late to reach the bus stand which was a sizeable 20 odd minutes away – it felt like a herculean task with our (now) heavy bags.

A prudent and practical decision was taken to keep things simple and take it as one ride at a time and not overthink how we would travel from Leh to Lahaul Valley/Kullu Valley via hitchhiking. Public transport would be available from Jispa / Keylong to Kullu. We figured that getting out of Leh city via a local bus was our best bet of giving the taxi guys roaming around the bus stand a miss. One of the basic rules of hitchhiking is that we rarely ever hitch rides in a city, so must get to the highway. We had a brisk walk with ‘our hearts in our mouths’ moment not knowing about the timing of the bus. I had assumed it was 730 am.

It was 0707 am when we finally made it to the bus stand and there was no bus to be seen. A few touts / taxi drivers asked us Manali-Srinagar and we chose to ignore them. We saw two foreigners rushing in one direction and followed them to enter a bus. The crowd at the bus stand was sparse and that worked to our advantage. Before we could ask the bus conductor where the bus was heading, the foreigners jumped out of the bus saying it was headed to Nubra Valley and that there was another bus for Pangong Tso.

Read : Lessons of Life at Pangong in Winter

We followed the foreigners, partly relieved because they seemed to be certain about a bus to Pangong leaving at this very hour! There it was; another bus half filled with foreign tourists that stood on one side of the bus stand and before entering we asked if this was indeed the bus to Pangong Tso? We told him to drop us in Karu since we were headed to Hemis monastery and were told the seats had been booked and to take the last two seats in the end row of the bus. I was relieved to somehow make it in time as this bus was supposed to leave at 7 am and it was already 715 am. Apparently the bus was waiting for the two foreigners who had pre-booked their tickets but had not yet arrived! Thankfully for us.

The bus engine roared to life as soon as we sat and we felt triumphant at the positive and successful beginning of the day. We heaved a sigh of relief and were elated as the bus crossed the shared taxi stand in the Bomb Guard area. The bus came to an abrupt halt as we reached Choglamsar. A number of Army personnel boarded the bus and extra baggage was hauled to the roof of the bus. Two tourists from South-east Asia were the last two to board. We were astonished (cuz we had no idea about pre-booking) when they produced their tickets to ask us if they were sitting on the right seats. Apparently, they had bought the tickets from the bus stand yesterday and now the bus was jam packed.

The driver (cum conductor) refused entry for further passengers and after a 20 odd minute stop we were on our way to Karu. We counted ourselves as lucky people who had the good fortune to get on the bus before there was no more space. It was a smooth ride thereafter and with no further stops we were dropped in Karu before 9 am. The bus sped after taking a left on the road that led to Pangong Tso. The easy part of our 450 km journey was done and we had covered a meagre 37 kms! Now the difficult part lie in front of us and we crossed the circle in Karu surrounded with dhabas and eateries and stood waiting for a ride on the road to Manali.

We were beginning to feel hungry but dared not step away from the road. Today was going to be a long day and we could not afford to take any chances as there was a possibility of every car giving us a ride. The road was dusty and we kept our bags on a nearby wall and started asking for rides from the passing vehicles. Most of them indicated that they were only going only a few kilometres ahead. We endured a torrid time when an Indian Army truck convoy crossed leaving us in a sea of toxic fumes. After about 30 minutes of no luck with rides, I had started feeling a bit restless.

In my mind, I decided to be a bit more assertive while asking for a ride and jumping on the road as a vehicle neared was my latest plan. A couple of vehicles crossed and still no luck with the new bold method had us nearly rethinking our thought process. We were waiting close to the diversion point in Karu so that vehicles that had slowed down would not pick speed and that gave us a good chance to make our presence felt and hitch a ride. A car arrived like a godsend; I jumped on the road and spotted a Lama in red robes driving the car. At first he indicated with his right hand that he was only going a few kilometres ahead. I made him stop the car and requested to roll down the window.

He said he was only going to Hemis monastery; the diversion for which was hardly 2-3 kms ahead of Karu. We requested him to drop us at the diversion point as we had been waiting in Karu for more than 30 minutes and that today even short rides of 2-3 kms might change our luck. Lama Ji opened the doors and it felt like he also unlocked a lucky charm. We shared our last remaining apricots with him and the kind soul that he was – after hearing our story of trying to hitchhike to Kullu he said that he would drop us all the way to the Upshi check post. We tried reasoning with him but agreed to take the ride because today we needed the help.

Lama Ji mentioned that he was from Skurbuchan village and I shared some memories about a past winter journey in that region. He shared that he was only going to Hemis to show tourists around the monastery but since it was an early hour, it was unlikely that there was someone waiting. The extra distance that Lama Ji had to cover was 10 kms and he told us not to worry as today we really needed the ride and that he would get back to Hemis in hardly 15-20 minutes after dropping us.

We requested him to drop us at the J&K Police Check-Post in Upshi and also make small talk with the police guy to enhance our chances of a ride. The check post in Upshi is located on the Manali-Leh highway after the road bifurcates for Chumathang. For the uninitiated, the two check posts of Darcha in Lahaul and Upshi in Ladakh serve as manned police points where travellers have to compulsorily stop, enter the vehicle details and number of people in the vehicle. What that essentially means is since every vehicle must come to a halt, the chances of a conversation increase leading to massive probability of hitching a long-distance ride.

I had been lucky in the past having hitched a ride from Darcha check post in Lahaul. Hitchhiking in a truck : Stories from Nakee La

Lama Ji dropped us right at the check post and spoke in Ladakhi to the stern looking J&K Police check post officer. We had no words to thank the Lama Ji and were highly obliged and sincerely hoped that the officer would help us. In our preoccupied state of mind, the thought of taking down Lama Ji’s number did not occur to us and we made a mental note to return to Hemis and get a thank you gift next time we were in Ladakh!

We waved goodbye to Lama Ji and briefly narrated our predicament to the police guy hoping that he will assist us in finding a ride from this point all the way till Lahaul (at least). There was a young lady also sitting on a chair at the check post and there was no space to keep our bags. Little did we know, the J&K police check post guy started admonishing us saying this is a check post and it is not their duty to find rides for hitchhikers everyday. I understood that he must be used to foreign backpackers trying this tactic everyday since not everyone wants to travel on the most beautiful road in the world in the darkness of the night!

Read : Offbeat Explorations in Leh

I had not even kept my bags down and this initial conversation with the check post officer hit us like a bolt. We realised there could be no outside help and that we needed to keep a time limit in case we were not able to hitch a ride till the afternoon. No sooner as I kept one of my bags down, a private number HP34 (Kullu number) Toyota Innova stopped in front of the check post. I quickly asked the police officer if it made sense to ask him for a ride. He mentioned that this car was of a Ladakhi local. As the car guy walked out and narrated the details to be filled in the register; we blurted out that his car number reminds us of Kullu.

The car guy was a true gentleman and simply asked us ‘Chalo, hum aapko Jispa tak le chalte hain’. I couldn’t believe the happenings and double checked if they actually had the space to give us both a ride. We picked our bags and opened the boot to reveal that there were only 3 people in the 6 seater SUV and there was enough space for the two of us. We thanked everyone in the car and told them we could barely believe our luck. The clock had not even struck 11 and we were on the way, to our home in Kullu Valley.

We had only fresh local Ladakhi green peas to be shared as food and I offered the same to everyone. They offered us chocolates in return which came as a welcome delight for our starved tummies. After about 30 minutes into the ride, we felt a bit relaxed with the knowledge that we had succeeded in our endeavour of trying to get out of Ladakh and reaching Lahaul by hitchhiking. The driving skills of the gentleman were top notch and we made good time. There were hardly any vehicles on the road and the more time went by, the more we realised how lucky we had been!

Our first break was at Tanglang La : There were a couple of tourist taxis ferrying international tourists and I also spotted a Swift Dzire (maybe it was the same driver I got a call from last evening). I got out of the car to stretch my limbs and was welcomed by a freezing cold breeze. A number of Israelis on the pass were climbing nearby hillocks and making lifetime memories. In the absence of any winter clothing, it was prudent for us to keep ourselves warm and I got back to the car and we were ready to go.

It was a smooth ride and we were even making plans (in our minds) about our estimated time of reaching Lahaul and how we would travel to Manali/Kullu thereafter. As we neared Sarchu, there was a massive queue of trucks on both sides of the road and what we saw next blew our minds! Apparently an overloaded truck had broken down on a bridge in Sarchu and the only way now was by crossing the Tsarap Chu river. It was adventure at its finest and we were glad to be in a high ground clearance Innova rather than a Swift Dzire (that incidentally had to use the services of a jcb to tow it).

At first, I had thought there would be an orderly system of crossing the Tsarap Chu river but as we came closer to the actual crossing we saw that it was a free for all and that there were trucks and other vehicles crossing the river from everywhere and some of them were getting stuck in the process. A jcb guy was doing swift business, charging INR 1000 for towing a small vehicle! It was quite a sight to see the cyclists cross the river with their mountain bikes on their shoulders. This type of river crossing was only possible because the flow of water was not too much otherwise it could prove disastrous.

We had a pretty smooth crossing as the water splashed around while the entire vehicle was nearly submerged at one point. There was a small damage as the front number plate went missing in the adventure and the co-passengers joked that they would have to plan a trip to Phukthar Monastery in Zanskar to retrieve it! The closure of the usual road meant we were suddenly in sync with the truth that in the present circumstances post flooding it was going to be touch and go with regards to catching the last bus of the day headed to Manali/Kullu. It was about 2-230 pm when we crossed Sarchu.

It was a smooth journey thereafter as we crossed Baralacha La and made a pee break at one of the dhabas near Bharatpur/Zing Zing Bar. Our hunger knew no bounds but we agreed to not waste any time and try to get to the destination as soon as possible. In our case, the destination was Jispa as the family giving us a ride were the owners of a property in Jispa. I was beginning to get thoughts of how to thank these guys for the ride – was it by offering a fair price of the shared taxi ride, say INR 2500 per person? They were very kind and we were also able to make some mutual connections as they had a home in Kullu as well.

We rolled into Jispa to a glorious sun shining brightly and I saw the clock show 419 pm as the time. A brief thought passed my mind if we could stay at their cottage for the night and perhaps compensate them monetarily for the same as repayment. We were preoccupied with the notions of returning home and thought we would even take a taxi ride if there was no other way. It was decided to make a gift pack for these kind folks to repay their kindness (when we headed next this side in the future). We exchanged numbers and decided to stand on the road and try hitching another ride.

Read : The Goodness of Strangers : Self-Published Book

In the meanwhile, I was able to speak to the HRTC manager in Keylong bus stand who informed me that the last bus of the day from Keylong to Kullu would leave at 430 pm. We told him there was no way to catch that bus as we were still in Jispa and it was already close to 430. The distance from Jispa to Keylong is about 19-20 kms and there was no chance of us flying yet! We walked a little bit and decided to try our luck from a vantage point on the road located on a bend.

There was a dhaba eatery on the opposite side of the road and in the absence of any tourists, he came asking us if we needed any help and to keep our bags on the chairs outside his dhaba. We made small talk and he was delighted to know we lived in Dobhi village as his relatives also lived nearby. We told him we had not eaten anything since morning and if we had a confirmed mode of transport would have loved a proper meal at his dhaba. He understood our situation and came and stood with us on the other side of the road as a sign of assistance. We saw a tempo traveller in the far distance and prepared ourselves to stop it.

It resulted in a laughable scenario! The HP01 tempo traveller duly stopped with the least persuasion and the kind youngsters pointed to the filled seats and massive bags as they were returning after a trek and had no space at all. We thanked them for stopping and told them we will try with other vehicles. After a couple of other vehicles that crossed not bothering about us, finally a small fuel tanker guy arrived and even though the space was only suitable for one person – we somehow squeezed in and the kind driver made space for our bags.

He said that he was returning from the Army duty of filling fuel near Killing Sarai and was headed to the local depot at Tandi and possibly going all the way to Manali. We thanked him for being very kind and told us about our day so far. He mentioned that his superiors have warned him against giving trips to random folks but sometimes he takes a chance to help! It was an adventurous ride as we were going at a nice speed until the tanker guy was stopped at the petrol pump in Keylong. Apparently, there was some confusion of where he had to go and he was asked to reconfirm the status in Tandi.

At the same moment, I got a phone call from the HRTC manager in Keylong bus stand that due to the festive rush of rakshabandhan, a special bus from Keylong to Kullu was scheduled to leave Keylong bus stand at 530 pm. It was past 530 pm and even though the HRTC manager said that the bus was jam packed and that there was no chance of getting a seat, we were elated to know that if we somehow boarded the bus in Tandi, we would not have to change any more transports and could directly get down in Dobhi. Our small tanker guy had to go to the fuel depot in Tandi and we asked him to drop us at Pangi Dhaba.

The tanker guy had given me his number to tell him about our status with regards to the bus since his fuel depot was in a no network zone and for all the trouble he might actually be going to Manali. If we were unable to board the bus, his tanker might still have space for us. At Pangi Dhaba, we had a quick realisation that we perhaps have ten minutes before the bus made it to Tandi. We asked for two plates of rajma chawal as quickly as possible, made sure to pay beforehand so that there was no trouble with the rush if the bus came when we were not done eating.

We wolfed down the yummy food at breakneck speed and I even asked for a second helping. This was our first any sort of meal of the day and it was close to 6 pm. As I was having my last bite, the bus arrived and as expected there was no space at all. Thankfully, my partner had found a seat for her (ladies quota) and I was resigned to standing! While I was paying for the ticket, another surprise awaited. Since it was rakshabandhan, ladies travelled free on the day and it felt like the proverbial ‘icing on the cake.’

The conductor and driver were kind to make space for our bags in the front. I was so exhausted after the events of the day that for the first time I sat on the floor of a bus near the boarding staircase. It felt like the world was spinning and I might even have dozed off for a bit. Thankfully, the weather was mild and felt quite pleasant as we were in the midst of the Lahauli summer on 30th August. After a while, the bus conductor woke me up when a seat became available near Sissu. I was in a disoriented state and felt quite uncomfortable presumably due to a heavy rajma chawal meal so late in the day.

As we neared Manali, I was shocked to see the state of the road near Bahang. The road was gone and only a makeshift arrangement made vehicular movement possible. I was dozing off intermittently and woke up when we reached Manali at about 730-8 pm. Someone told us that this was the last bus of the day from Manali to Kullu and we could barely believe our good fortune. If any of our rides through the day had been delayed, there would have been no chance of us returning on the same day.

I got a seat in the front after Manali and the full impact of the flooding was now known with the dust flying around. The 19 kilometre distance from Manali to Dobhi took more than an hour and a half. The road had completely gone away in five-six sections and the region around Kalath was the worst affected.

We were almost in tears looking at the state of the road and the mangled remains of destroyed vehicles still in the river. Our stop in Dobhi came and we got out of the bus after thanking the driver and conductor. It was almost ten by the time we entered our house. If not for the ten minute chance for rajma chawal at Pangi Dhaba, we might have slept hungry.

It is a story for the ages. Humanity and ‘The Goodness of Strangers’ is still alive. No matter how advanced we become as a race; we will survive only if we help fellow human beings without any motive.

As I type this, life and the roads are back to normal in Kullu. When the pace of repairing the road was lacking by the government, the locals performed shramdaan (manual labour) to get the infrastructure up and running. It ensured that the apple crop that is the bulk of the livelihood for people in the valley, was harvested smoothly and was transported efficiently to different corners of India.

This is my first blog post in a few months; due to an unintended break. I am glad the old writing style is back with a journey in yesteryear style.

I would love to get your reactions on how this journey made you feel!

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The distance between Karwar to Gokarna is 61 kms and it took almost 2 hours.

In Gokarna, it was a lucky day to hitch a ride and get dropped somewhere close to Om Beach.

After a day or so trying to blend in to see or experience the so called hippie vibe of Gokarna, it seemed just natural to explore the town and perhaps live like a local. The food scene of Gokarna is quite legendary!

The rest of the days in Gokarna were spent just ambling around, eating satisfying meals at small eateries and relishing the essence of doing nothing and feeling great about it!

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Read : The Goodness of Strangers in Kerala

Anecdotes, photographs and a travel guide to Kochi :

Introduction and History of Fort Kochi or Fort Cochin

Most travellers choose Kochi as the first stop to the popular tourist state of Kerala; with convenient flight connections from all big cities in India. Fort Kochi (or Cochin) has the proud distinction of being the oldest and first European settlement in India, and retains a charming and bucolic feel. This ancient town’s complex history is reflected in a medley of distinct Indo-European architectural styles. Fort Kochi boasts of a classic mixture with Portuguese, Dutch, British and traditional Kerala houses adorning the streets of Malabar’s crown jewel. It was a massive surprise for me to come across Gujarati signboards advertising mithai walas in Mattancherry!

In the present day, Kochi (or Cochin, as it was known earlier) comprises of the following areas : Mattancherry, Fort Kochi and the commercial hub of the city; Ernakulam.

Among the plethora of sights and experiences in Kochi include 

• Mattancherry’s warehouses filled with Kerala’s much priceless spices like pepper; jostling with new age street art.
• The timeless Jew Town, with the oldest Synagogue in the Commonwealth and antique shops selling secret finds. 
• Fort Kochi for a Kathakali performance, choose your fresh seafood with a sunset cruise and feel good about life! 

History of Kochi or Cochin

The Portuguese came looking for pepper and arrived in Kochi in the year 1500 AD. They constructed Fort Immanuel (that signifies the fort in Fort Kochi) and St. Francis’ church; and transformed Kochi from a tiny fishing hamlet to a bustling town. The Dutch then took over and ruled Fort Kochi for more than 100 years, from 1663 until 1795. The British took over from the Dutch and only left with India’s Independence in 1947.

An intriguing fact is that Fort Kochi was a multi-ethnic society even before the Europeans arrived. According to legend – St. Thomas, The Apostle arrived in Kochi in 52 AD and gave Kochi its first Syrian Orthodox Christians. The Jews arrived in 70 AD, as a result of the First Jewish – Roman War’s siege of Jerusalem. 

Kochi was formed with a stroke of luck in 1341 AD – A flood created a safe natural port in Fort Kochi that was seen as an alternative to Muziris – which was the main harbour on the Malabar Coast. The royal family moved to Kochi from Muziris in 1405 firmly establishing it on the map.

Must Visit Sights & Experiences in Kochi 

Chinese Fishing Nets 

The Chinese fishing nets were introduced to Kochi by traders from the court of Kublai Khan, sometime between the 14th & 15th century. These humongous nets are set up on bamboo poles and require four men to control them. They remain a grand reminder of Kochi’s historic trade ties with the far East. The best time to watch them in action is from close to the Vasco da Gama Square in Fort Kochi at sunset time. Strolling around the Chinese fishing nets is free but if you want to see the fishermen in action, a tip is appreciated and they will explain the functioning.

Mattancherry Palace

Despite being built by the Portuguese in the 16th Century; Mattancherry Palace is more commonly known as the Dutch Palace. The Portuguese gifted it to the Raja of Kochi as a token of thanks for the trading rights granted to them. When the Dutch took over Fort Kochi in the year 1663, they remodelled the Mattancherry Palace in an extensive manner and the name ‘Dutch Palace’ has stuck since then. 

It looks unassuming from the outside but hides a wealth of riches in its two storey interiors! The vivid murals in some of the rooms are excellent examples of Kerala’s hardly known school of painting. The prized collection includes coronation robes of past Rajas, palanquins, Dutch maps of Old Cochin and royal family portraits, among other things.

Paradesi Synagogue in Jew Town

Although Kochi’s first Jewish settlers arrived in 52 AD; the Paradesi Synagogue was built more than 1,500 years later. Nondescript from the outside, one might entirely miss the Synagogue in the jumble of buildings in Jew Town! Paradesi Synagogue is the oldest active Synagogue in the Commonwealth and the Jewish community of Cochin has the distinction of being among the oldest Jewish communities in the world. (Paradesi = foreigner)

Visitors are only allowed to click photographs of the 18th century clock tower in the outdoors. Indoor photography is strictly not allowed and that means we must gaze longer at the incredibly beautiful blue and white ceramic floor tiles. These Cantonese tiles are very unique as every tile is hand-painted, all 1100 of them! Also notice the immaculate Belgian chandelier hanging from the ceiling. Old Torah scrolls with crowns presented by the Maharajas of Travancore and Cochin are also kept in the Paradesi Synagogue.

Only a handful of Jews remain in Kochi (around five-six), as most of them migrated to Israel in the 1940s. Prayer ceremonies are held at the Paradesi Synagogue when the minyan (minimum number of 10 men required for traditional Jewish public worship) is met.

St. Francis Church 

Originally built by the Portuguese in the early 16th Century, St. Francis Church is India’s oldest European church. Vasco da Gama was buried here when he died in Kochi; although his body was later moved to Lisbon in 1538 AD.

St. Francis Church, Kochi & India’s Colonial History

Santa Cruz Basilica 

The stunningly beautiful Santa Cruz Basilica in Kochi is one of the finest examples of Roman Catholic churches in entire India. It was built by the Portuguese in the early years of the 16th Century. The architectural style of the Santa Cruz Basilica is Gothic and I recommend morning / evening time for the best light for photography.  

Hill Palace at Tripunithura

I must thank Johann for taking me to this particular place as I was not aware of Tripunithura at all. The Hill Palace of Tripunithura has now been converted into a museum. The 17th Century wooden mandapa (hall) featuring carvings of episodes from the Ramayana is a classic exhibit. The annual festival held at the Shri Poornathrayeesa Temple in October-November on the way to the Hill Palace is a grand celebration.

Spices in Kochi

Even though the cacophonous trade around spices in Kochi has reduced considerably these days, the sorting warehouses still exist and function like they have done for hundreds of years. In Kerala, pepper is still sometimes referred to as black gold and when you are visiting, it makes sense to buy some spices straight from the source! Kochi International Pepper Exchange on the Jew Town Rd in Mattancherry was the place where you could until quite recently witness the bidding of different varieties of pepper; but the bidding is now done electronically. Among other spices; there is fine quality ginger, cloves, mace, star anise, nutmeg, cardamom. 

Traditional Kerala Cuisine 

Kochi is an excellent place to try the mind-boggling variety of traditional food of Kerala. Among the recommended dishes are : Puttu served with Kadala curry – a fine rice powder mixed with grated coconut steamed in a mini cylinder served with mildly spicy chickpea stew. Idi Appam and Kerala style egg curry – String hoppers with and spice rich tomato egg curry. Appam and vegetable stew – steamed rice pancakes served with vegetable curry in coconut milk. Malabar Parotta paired with numerous meat dishes. 

Traditional feast (Sadhya), is a multi-course meal extravaganza served on a banana leaf. There’s rice, ghee, variety of stews and curries like sambar, rasam, pachadi, appalam, avial and the last course is the sweet delicacy payasam. 

Kathakali : Kerala’s Classical Art

When in Kochi, visitors have a great chance to attend Kerala’s well known classical art form – kathakali. Kathakali combines various theatrical and performance elements, and is said to have developed during the 16th century. Traditionally, Kathakali performances are held for entire nights during festivals. In Kochi, however, a number of Kathakali performances are held for tourists in the Fort Kochi area and there is a reasonable fee for the 1-2 hour show.  

Sunset Cruise 

Sunset cruise time in Kochi is when the sun casts beautiful orange hues in the sky and a mellow breeze blows. There are numerous companies offering sunset cruises and tickets can be booked at the jetty counter in Fort Kochi. 

Dutch Cemetery

It was an unplanned stop when I came across the closed Dutch Cemetery on a walk in Fort Kochi. The Dutch Cemetery was established in 1724 and is closed to visitors unless you can grab hold of the caretaker! The tombstones at the Dutch Cemetery are said to be the an authentic record of the hundreds of Europeans (both Dutch and English) who lived and died here during the colonial rule of Kochi.

Where is the ‘fort’ in Fort Kochi? – Fort Immanuel 

Fort Immanuel was built by the Portuguese in the 16th century, and is the Fort after which Fort Kochi was named. It was completely destroyed by the Dutch and the British. In the present day, only the remnants of a few walls can be seen on a walk from the Vasco Da Gama square in Fort Kochi.

Bolgatty Palace 

Bolgatty Palace was built in 1744 and has the distinction of being among the oldest Dutch palaces outside of The Netherlands built by the Dutch. It lies on Bolgatty Island which is accessible by ferry.

Cherai Beach

Cherai Beach is about 30 kms from Fort Kochi. The best way to reach here is via the ferry from Fort Kochi to Vypin Island and then take a short bus ride to reach Cherai Beach. The sunset at Cherai Beach is especially beautiful. 

Kochi Muziris Biennale

Every two years, the Kochi-Muziris Biennale is held in Kochi. It is one of the largest art exhibitions in India; and has resulted in some fine art on display. 

Street Art 

The entire Fort Kochi area is full of vibrant street art, and is best explored on an unplanned walk in the tiny nooks and crannies. The graffiti with interesting themes and messages is refreshing and instrumental in bringing the old buildings to life. 

Old Kochi Heritage Walk

Chinese fishing nets, a Jewish synagogue, Kathakali performance, a ruined Portuguese Fort, Spice markets, India’s first European church and 17th Century Dutch homes can all be found on the Old Kochi Heritage walk.

Start walking from Vasco da Gama Square, where you can see the cantilevered Chinese fishing nets lining the shore, then stroll along the Church Road to reach St. Francis Church. Keep walking to see the signboard for the Dutch Cemetery Road, passing the cemetery on your right, and the crumbling walls of Fort Immanuel. Continue the walk to reach Bastion Street and follow the signboards to gaze at the stunning Santa Cruz Basilica.

Among the old colonial houses to be seen on the Old Kochi heritage walk for the blend of architecture are Thakur House, the Jewish Koder House (run as a heritage hotel), Pierce Leslie Bungalow, Ballard Bungalow, Bastion House built to guard the harbour on the old Dutch Fort’s Stromberg Bastion and Malabar House. Also worth a look is Bishop’s Bungalow for the Indo-Portuguese museum. All these old colonial houses are located in Fort Kochi and are accessible on the walk.

A Day in Kochi

Start the day with the Old Kochi Heritage Walk; breakfast at Kashi Art Cafe for excellent coffee and cakes. Head to Mattancherry via a rickshaw to visit the Mattancherry Palace or Dutch Palace and also the Paradesi Synagogue. Also peruse the antique shops and some of the spice shops as well. Enjoy lunch at the local favourite Paragon or Kayees Rahmatullah Café on the Gujarati road in Mattancherry. Spend the evening at Tripunithura Palace and back to Fort Kochi for dinner at the Old Harbour Hotel.

Where to eat in Kochi?

Among the best local recommendations are Paragon in Edappally, Kayees Rahmatullah Café for Biryani. In Fort Kochi, David Hall Gallery & Café, Kashi Art Cafe for coffee and café food while Brunton Boatyard, Pepper House and 1788 (restaurant at Old Harbour Hotel) are all classic fine-dine restaurants.

How to explore Kochi?

It is best to take the pleasures of Fort Kochi by walk as all the sights are accessible by foot and the distances are small. For longer distances; app based taxi services like ola, uber, cab be used. Autos and local buses are easily available too. A unique way to explore Kochi is by ferry. 

Ferry : The ferries are a cheap way to get around Kochi’s main areas considering the traffic at rush our. Regular government ferries ply from Fort Kochi and the different islands and areas are all well connected by ferries as it is the mode of transport that the locals use.

When is the best time to visit Kochi?

July to September is monsoon time and thats when Kochi is at its prettiest in the bountiful rain and greenery. November to February is commonly the most favoured time when the temperatures are bearable. Hotel prices are at their highest in the peak winter season.

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I made the journey from Kurseong to Mirik by shared sumo locally called as Syndicate in this region. In Mirik, I stayed at Haamro Ghar Homestay and I highly recommend them if you are planning to visit Mirik. Sumendu Lake is the highlight of this tiny town that is spread around the lake that also boasts of a monastery.

A Journey in Photographs of Two Days in Mirik

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While I have crossed Jalori Pass a number of times over the years on journeys to Kinnaur and Spiti, it has taken forever for me to undertake the trek from Jalori Pass to Serolsar Lake. There is also the small hike / trek to Raghupur Garh (Fort) and the seemingly offbeat nature of the same meant that in the autumn of 2014, I ended up being awed by the majestic valley views from Raghupur Garh (Garh = Fort). That time I was staying in Sojha at one of the two homestays in the tiny village and remember witnessing a majestic moonrise!

Another time in 2017 or 2018, I was accompanied with locals and we reached Jalori Pass in the afternoon and as soon as we started the trek, it started drizzling causing us to consider the Serolsar Lake trek for another time. It was a warm summer and I was put up at Jibhi this time around. I had always thought Serolsar Lake trek to be quite popular and the thought of hiking / trekking with 100-odd first time city trekkers ensured I kept this on the sideline.

I guess it was third time lucky (in hindsight) as I was planning a spring sojourn to Kinnaur in the end of March. The original plan was to head to Batahad village and trek to Baga Sarahan via Bashleo Pass. I had been to Bashleo Pass earlier in 2016 with Jita and had no idea it was a straightforward downhill trek to Baga Sarahan; otherwise we might as well have spent a few days in Baga Sarahan and other parts of Kinnaur. A quick phone call to Thewa Ram Ji in Batahad confirmed my suspicions about snow at Bashleo Pass. It was therefore decided that we would play it by the ear and try to catch the first bus of the day from Kullu to Banjar.

I called the HRTC Kullu bus stand guys and found out that there’s a Kullu to Banjar bus at 530 am and then at 7 am, then at 8 am. We made a practical target to catch the 8 am bus from Kullu bus stand. I tried calling HRTC Banjar but their number was out of order. Anyway, HRTC Kullu guys had informed me that while Jalori Pass was open a few days earlier, recent bad weather and subsequent snowfall meant that buses had stopped plying across Jalori pass and they were only going till Jibhi and Sojha.

We woke up on a fine sunny morning and were quickly on the road at about 715 am. I immediately called HRTC Manali and they said that I would have to rely on a local bus to go from Dobhi to Kullu at this early hour. The Manali to Dharamsala-bound Bedi Travels bus came around and got to Kullu bus stand at 8 am. The Kullu to Banjar 8 am bus had been cancelled (maybe due to the recent snowfall at Jalori Pass) and we continued till Aut in the same Bedi Travels bus and made good time to reach Aut at 9 am.

A Banjar bound local bus was about to leave from Aut but was already full; in the absence of any other options we jumped in and struggled to find even breathing space. The bus was filled to the brim and it was really difficult with our backpacks but the necessity of these kind of journeys is the helping nature of the locals and that ensured everyone managed to survive. The weather was holding up and the sun was still out. Rain was forecast after 1-2 pm and I was hoping we would find a bus headed to Sojha (Shoja) from Banjar bus stand.

I thought that the bus would get less crowded at Balichowki but it turned out to be the opposite as more and more people got in! Thankfully, it was our turn to get seats and it was a smooth arrival at Banjar bus stand. The time was about 1030 am and a few raindrops came around from the overcast skies. I went to find the bus timings for Sojha and was promptly told by the enquiry counter that bus service from Banjar to Sojha has been temporarily suspended with the inclement weather alert and imminent rainfall. The next bus from Banjar to Jibhi was the Gadagushaini bus at 12 noon.

We were in a fix and had no idea what to do next! A couple of taxi guys hovered around quoting outrageous prices for Jalori Pass. A Banjar to Bathad bus was scheduled to leave at 11 am and I briefly flirted with the idea of going to Bathad. Thankfully, sense prevailed and when a shared taxi alto guy came asking, this time I asked him the price for 2 people to Sojha. I told him we lived in Dobhi village and he quoted us the local’s price at INR 200 per person. He had two more passengers who wanted to go to Anni village (across Jalori Pass) and the alto guy was supposed to drop them till Jalori Pass only. It was well known that there would be local shared sumos ferrying passengers from Jalori Pass to Khanag and Anni.

It felt like Banjar town had the same old traffic jam problems. This road has long been awarded the status of a National Highway (NH-305) but there has been no work done on the ground. Anyhow, it was comforting to see a police guy with a walkie talkie directing the traffic and we were soon out from Lower Banjar to Upper Banjar and on the road to Jibhi. The condition of the road was quite terrible (to say the least) and I reminded myself that I wasn’t missing out on too much by not coming this side inspite of living in Kullu Valley.

I was happily surprised when two buses crossed us; they were coming from Khauli – just a bit ahead of Gada Gushaini. Jibhi had the look of a shanty tourist town with multiple colourful homestays/guest houses, cafés, restaurants on both sides of the broken road. There was a sort of relieved sigh to see that we had not chosen the easy way out by opting to stay in Jibhi. Just after we crossed Jibhi and neared Ghiyagi – close to the diversion of Sajwar; the rain started coming down and had me scrambling for my jacket.

In conversations with the co-passengers, I asked if anyone knew the chowkidar/caretaker of the PWD Rest House? The reply was pleasing – it appeared that there was now a newly built Forest Rest House in Sojha as well. I was keen on staying at the vintage PWD Rest House in Sojha and not at one of the numerous homestays / guest houses. The plan was to hopefully find a ride to Jalori Pass next day and trek to Serolsar Lake and come back to Jalori Pass and then decide the further course of action depending on the weather.

The shared alto guy dropped us on the road near the signboard of the FRH in Sojha and I was left wondering about the exact location of the PWD Rest House. The rain was steady and my rain jacket had to be summoned from the small backpack. I didn’t have to wait long to quell my doubts about the PWD Rest House as it turned out to be adjacent to the Forest Rest House in Sojha. We saw smoke coming out of the chimney of one of the houses but were not able to find the caretaker and thankfully went to the Forest Rest House and met the chowkidar there.

He called the son of the PWD Rest House Caretaker and told us to meet him since the Forest Rest House was already booked (which turned out to be untrue!). The son of the chowkidar was very helpful and asked us to take the confirmation of the booking from an official phone number in Kullu. The lady in the office confirmed our stay in ten minutes and asked us to take Set Number 2. We thanked and put our bags in the spacious set number 2 and since we had not eaten anything since morning, asked the caretaker’s son to recommend a place to eat in the town.

He suggested that the Forest Eco-Tourism area has a recently inaugurated canteen and he recommended that over the dhaba in Sojha. So, we just hopped across the gate and found the dining room. Fresh aloo paranthas were the only option to be made in a jiffy and with the cold breeze blowing due to the rain turned out to be perfect. We had multiple rounds of masala chai and requested rajma+chawal to be made on order for dinner.

The whole valley was engulfed in clouds at this moment and it felt quite dreamy. It was a feeling of contentment and satisfaction after a full tummy and the weather gods reciprocated when it stopped raining once we stepped out of the dining area. We decided to go for a short walk in Sojha and see how it has changed over the years. The rain had caused the temperature to plummet and at 2700-2800 metres altitude, Sojha was quite chilly. It looked timeless though with the floating clouds in the valley below.

We came across a handful of newly established hotels in terms of staying options and a few cafés as well. Sojha seemed to have hit the right spot in terms of still keeping the scenic beauty intact unlike Jibhi which can clearly be said to be under the clutches of over-tourism. Locals working at an under construction hotel invited us to sit by the side of the bukhari and we enjoyed the conversation for a while. At about 230 pm, we were back to the PWD Rest House and just in time for it to start raining again.

Thankfully, the PWD Rest House had a long corridor with glasses and we had carried our books. It was teeth chattering cold and we enjoyed the same since these were the last few days of a long winter before summer winds blew in the valley. When the rain relented for a bit, I went around wandering in the PWD Rest House compound and then we went dot on time for our awaited late lunch/early dinner of rajma chawal in the dining area at 5 pm.

Rajma chawal was ready and we were served steaming hot bowls of the ultimate comfort food. It was delicious and we asked for masala chai to round off a grand eating experience in the lovely interiors with the aroma of deodhar wood furniture. We requested him for early morning chai at 7 am the next day and he asked us to just wake him up and he will do the needful. Since we had forgotten a pack of biscuits, we wandered off to the nearby shop in Sojha and with no rain ended up walking to the Banjara Retreat.

The landscapes seemed surreal with the floating clouds and we couldn’t have been more pleased to be out for our evening stroll. We also noticed a number of 4*4 vehicles on the road heading to / coming back from Jalori Pass on our walks on the road in Sojha. So, it was decided to start walking next morning for Jalori Pass and hope that we got a ride in one of the vehicles heading up (if there was) so we could start the Serolsar Lake Trek from Jalori Pass at an early hour. We got back to the wood and glass interiors of the PWD Rest House and made ourselves cosy.

It kept raining on and off and after fiddling with reading and aimless scrolling on the phone, we called it an early night and put our alarms for 630 am. Once the thick blankets got warmed up, it was a nice sleep and we woke up fresh and raring to go and trek to Serolsar Lake. We woke up the canteen owner and he quickly made tea for us while all of us shared the solitary packet of biscuits. We were out on the road even before it was 730 am and since it felt like a nice, clear morning we were happy to start walking on the road to Jalori Pass.

The distance from Sojha to Jalori Pass is almost 5 kms and I was hoping to find a camper or locals headed to Jalori Pass and catch a ride so as to save time. Of course, there were no sounds of a vehicle and we were pleased to be in a thick forest hardly 1 km after walking past Sojha. We spotted a variety of colourful birds in the forest and started encountering snow on the road. There were also a few private tourist vehicles parked on the side of the road as the snow on the road increased and we figured that the vehicle owners were smart enough to come back and take their vehicles when the road became clear.

Just as we were nearing Jalori Pass at about 9 am, two 4*4 campers carrying a bucketful of tourists crossed us and I was in a spell for a moment. Jalori Pass was totally snowed out and there were many vehicles / shared taxis waiting. Some were from Anni, Khanag side while the recent campers who had crossed us were ready to take tourists back to Sojha. They were charging about INR 200 per person for the 4.5-5 kilometre distance between Sojha and Jalori Pass. We went to the nearby dhaba and had a round of black tea; requested dhaba uncle for a plate each of rajma chawal and kadi chawal upon return.

Since we were told the distance between Jalori Pass and Serolsar Lake is 5 kilometres and the fact that it was a level trail, we calculated roughly 3.5 hours for the coming and going and included about 30 minutes of spending time at Serolsar Lake. Our breakfast turned out to be green apples that we had carried and told the dhaba uncle that we would see him on the return. There were a couple of local youngsters standing at the start of the trail and I asked them in the local lingo if there were any confusions that we may encounter on the trail and they said it was a straightforward trek.

We started at 910 am and the weather was holding up for the moment. The sun was playing a constant battle with the clouds and the weather forecast showed 70 odd percent chance of rain/snow at Jalori Pass after 1 pm. So, our aim was to get back after the trek to Jalori Pass before 1 pm and decide the next course of action based on the weather. It was nice to walk on fresh snow although I was a little surprised to see multiple dhabas at the start of the trail. The youngsters who had arrived in campers to the top of Jalori Pass were apparently headed to Serolsar Lake but were playing in the snow seemingly unaware of the fickle mountain weather.

After crossing the cluster of dhabas at the start of the trail from Jalori Pass, we entered a dense oak forest that would continue till we reached Serolsar Lake. There was pin drop silence only interspersed by the sound of falling drops from the melting snow on branches with the currently abundant sunshine. Thankfully, the drops were few and far between and did not create puddles on the trail and we could continue to crunch the fresh snow under our feet. Our heads had to be covered though with the sort of occasional rainfall effect of the same!

We crossed a meadow where the HP Forest Department puts up tents for staying in the summer. Although there were no markings on the trail, the path seemed fairly straightforward and could have become confusing in the snow. Hence, we had asked beforehand and were told there is no turn as such and the entire path is straight rather than a sharp right or left turn somewhere. After 20 odd minutes of walking (roughly past 1 kilometre) there was a camping site to the right and another 360 degree campsite somewhere to the left. The left side campsite seemed to have a vantage viewpoint and could make for a nice nature camp in the summer months.

We continued walking at a brisk speed and after the 2 km mark, came across another cluster of dhabas (all of them were closed with the recent snowfall). The sun was out and two benches were kept at just the right place so we opted for a five minute breather. Here, we met a couple of locals who were walking ahead of us – they were going to open their dhaba that was located close to the lake. They were carrying supplies and told us that they roughly call this 2 km dhaba stretch as the sort of halfway point.

I started feeling quite warm in the direct sun and we opted to start walking again since we were not really tired at all. After this point, the trail gets a little smaller in width and with the melting snow required a bit of extra concentration. There were a few downhill stretches and then uphill stretches but nothing alarming and after another 40 odd minutes of hiking, we came to another area with spread out dhabas(all of them were closed). I figured that the lake was nearby; the watch showed that we had covered 5 kilometres but Serolsar Lake was nowhere to be seen.

Instead, there were steps on the other side of the trail which meant there was more distance to be covered. On the other side, there were about 2-3 sizeable dhabas and one of them had been opened – courtesy of the local couple who went ahead of us. I noticed that the watch showed that we had covered about 5.6-5.7 kms at the dhaba point and I ended up asking the dhaba owner that everyone says that the distance between Jalori Pass to Serolsar Lake is 5 kilometres. He replied saying that the distance is almost 6 kms but like a popular myth, incorrect information has been floating around presumably to make it feel more attractive to first time trekkers!

He said that Serolsar Lake is hardly 200 metres ahead from there and told us to continue straight! We alighted past a flight of snow-laden stairs and came upon a stunning sight. Serolsar Lake looked incredibly beautiful surrounded by snow and had absolutely still waters with a reflection of the nearby trees. There was an iron gate that signified the entry to the walking path around the lake. The first reaction upon seeing Serolsar Lake was that it is quite big whereas in the photographs on the internet it looked quite small.

We walked a bit on the path that was totally submerged in snow and I had a glimpse of The Budhi Nagin Temple that was located on a higher platform on the left overlooking the lake. At first I thought that we would visit the temple but then I quickly deduced that there would be no pujari at the moment, the path was entirely snowed out and a quick look at the sky suggested that the clouds will be back soon. There were a couple of signboards instructing visitors to maintain the sanctity of the lake and not to go near the water. Snow had seeped in inside my shoes and I felt a bit chilly now that the physical activity was reduced to gazing at Serolsar Lake and clicking pictures!

The time was about 11 am and we started climbing the flight of stairs and sat at the dhaba. There was only maggi on offer (which I hate!) and so we decided to ask for black tea and a packet of whatever biscuits they had (nor that I like biscuits!). We had covered more than 10 kms without real food and had 6 more kilometres to trek to get back to Jalori Pass. The weather was holding up for the time being and we totally relished the black tea (laced with cardamom) and biscuits sitting on the wooden benches. We thanked the dhaba couple for leading the way and they recommended us to return in the summer!

In the summer months, every slope on the Jalori Pass to Serolsar Lake trek turns into a camping ground and with the numerous dhabas around – food is never really a problem. Only the presence of crowds deters me from heading to popular places in the high season. We started walking and mentally recollected the landmarks that we had encountered on the way so that we could return safely even if the weather worsened and the visibility reduced.

It was almost 12 noon when we encountered the first visitors on our way back. Another group was accompanied with a local guide and were trying to trek to Serolsar lake on a day when bad weather was forecast after 1 pm. The trail itself had become a bit slushy once more people had walked on it. We opted to sit on the same spot where we had rested at the 2 km mark on the way. As soon as we sat on the benches, it started drizzling and within no time turned to snow. Thankfully, another dhaba had opened by then and was serving 4 youngsters who were having maggi / etc. We sat under the tarpaulin for a minute and decided to just get back to Jalori Pass since it was not too far from there.

Within a matter of minutes the snowfall gave way to fog and mist and we were in a white forest all of a sudden. Thankfully, we were well prepared for this scenario and at this juncture we reached the first campsites where the trail widens. Here, we encountered a number of tourists chilling at the dhabas. Some were headed to Serolsar Lake in this inclement weather. Tourists were enjoying the unexpected snowfall and it felt nice to see the raw feel of the joy of travel. We were back to the dhaba at Jalori Pass just a tad before the clock struck 1. Dhaba uncle gave us a thumbs up and said well done and confirmed that our food is ready!

We gobbled up the rajma chawal, kadi chawal and it was really really delicious and felt even more so after a total of 16 odd kilometres of hiking in the snow. It was a nice feeling to know that living in Kullu Valley was working well for our fitness levels and we were almost on par with the locals in terms on basic speed in hiking even while not trying to speed up. Campers and other 4*4 vehicles were parked on both sides of the road on Jalori Pass and now we had the choice of going to Anni, Khanag or Sojha, Jibhi. It was still snowing and we instinctively said it is best to return home to Kullu Valley and sought about figuring a vehicle.

A shared camper guy said he’s charging INR 200 per person from Jalori Pass to Sojha and that he will leave when the vehicle is full. I tried asking him INR 200 till Banjar so that we could get a bus from Banjar to Kullu but he wouldn’t budge and I figured that he might take more than an hour to fill the number of passengers. After the lovely lunch, we were also ok with hiking back to Sojha along the road if it stopped snowing/raining. Just as we were wondering, I spotted another camper guy who was about to leave for Sojha. I quickly ran and asked him to drop us to Banjar for INR 200 per person. He had no other passengers and asked us to get in as he had to go somewhere and was in a rush.

As we say, sometimes we make our own luck and this camper guy seemed to be doing the same. We paid the dhaba uncle who was so kind that he came to tell the camper guy to drop us safely! There was a local family of five headed to Ghiyagi and off we went without wasting any time. As usual, aimless chatting was the order of the day and the gentleman of the family invited us to their home in Ghiyagi. The snow turned into rain just a few bends after starting our journey and by the time we reached Sojha, there was no sign of snow but only rainfall. The cold also abated a bit and even though my socks and feet were totally wet, I was ok.

The camper guy was quite friendly and told us that he was in a hurry because he was anyway headed to Bhuntar to get the servicing of his vehicle done. He agreed to drop us till Aut for INR 500 total for the two of us. We made good time from Banjar and reached Aut at 4 pm. Our reaching home was delayed as the bus from Aut took forever and after changing another bus in Kullu bus stand, we got down at Dobhi at 630 pm.

The weather was pleasant, our hearts were happy and it was an adventure of a trek from Jalori Pass to Serolsar Lake that made all the difference!

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We landed in Istanbul and travelled across Turkey to places like Trabzon, Van, Gaziantep, Izmir, Selçuk, Antalya and traversed across numerous towns and villages in the Turkish countryside. If you are planning a trip to Turkey, here are the links for the posts.

Istanbul : Tips for Backpacking

Trabzon : Travels on the Black Sea Coast

Van : A City of All Day Breakfasts

Gaziantep : UNESCO approved eating!

Photographs and Memories from Travels across Turkey

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It had been a glorious few months in Kasar Devi and we had braved through the winter cold. As soon as February began, we chalked out plans to visit the nearby places for weekend visits.

In the last week of February, we left early morning from our cottage in Kasar Devi and walked to the diversion of the road for Jageshwar near Almora, and were lucky to instantly hitch a ride till Chitai Golu Devta. We paid our respects at the temple and started walking on the road and were lucky again to find another ride that dropped us at Artola – the point from where the road diverted for Jageshwar. I remembered from my earlier visit that it would be a pleasant 2 odd km walk from here as the region around Jageshwar is surrounded by pine and deodhar forests to reach the Dandeshwar Temple.

Since the distance between Almora and Jageshwar is only 35 kms, we didn’t bother to have breakfast when we left from Kasar Devi and figured that it made sense to eat an early lunch along the way or directly after reaching Jageshwar.

In 2015, I had stayed in Jageshwar for a day and someone had mentioned that while Vridhh Jageshwar was quite close to Jageshwar; it was a good 8-10 km distance from the road and there was a diversion road for Vridhh Jageshwar from Artola. In the absence of a proper mode of transport (bus or shared taxi), it wasn’t practical to think of a day visit from Jageshwar to Vridhh Jageshwar and back. I had multiple bags with me and therefore had to sort of plan my travel accordingly.

It was a surreal walk on the road from Artola as there were hardly any vehicles and we reached Dandeshwar Temples at about 1230 pm. We were quite hungry and came across a boutique stay on the way to Jageshwar after crossing Dandeshwar Temple. The dining area looked very inviting and we asked the staff if it was possible to make lunch on order? They said lunch would be simple dal, green leafy vegetables, chapati and rice and would take about 30 minutes to make. We requested them to speed it up as we were super hungry!

Food was out of the world when it arrived after some time and we ate till our stomachs were full! The 250 Rupees per person charge felt absolutely worthwhile. We thanked the staff wholeheartedly, paid them and set on our way. We visited the various temples in the Jageshwar Group of Temples complex; crossed the Jataganga stream to reach the Kuber Temple. Jageshwar town seemed to have expanded and didn’t have the charming feel as earlier so we were already thinking of an alternate plan of stay!

We asked the Pandit Ji at Kuber Temple about the hiking trail for Vridhh Jageshwar temple. It was early afternoon and we had ample time for trying to head somewhere else. Pandit Ji was quite confident and told us that the trail to Vridhh Jageshwar was well marked and pretty straightforward. He estimated that the hiking – trekking trail from Jageshwar to Vridhh Jageshwar is about 3-4 kms and should take between 1.5 to 2 hours maximum. He also told us that there were a couple of homestays right in front of the Vridhh Jageshwar Temple and that we would have no trouble finding a place to stay for the night.

It was about 315 pm when we started our walk from Kuber Temple. There was a proper cemented path with beautiful houses surrounded by early spring flower blooms on the way as the onset of the Jageshwar to Vridhh Jageshwar trek. One of the homes had such an incredible array of flowers – on the pretext of asking about the trail, I ended up asking whether the house was also a homestay! The lady of the house quoted a heavy price and we figured that as a classic trait in Uttarakhand. I stuck to the task of confirming the path and was told that a road is being built and that we should take the walking trail even after the road joins.

We were on the right trail and easily climbed a steady ascent in the initial 15 minutes. The weather was sunny when we had started but quickly began to change with clouds gathering and a breeze starting to blow even before we had reached the first road construction that was said to be our first landmark. I tried asking anyone on the trail where the path joined the bigger road in progress but there was no one to be seen and as if on cue, it started drizzling.

Thankfully, we had carried our rain jackets and since we had a rough idea about the trail, continued walking on the dirt road and kept a look out for a walking trail ascending towards our right. The drizzle was steady and we were overjoyed when a vehicle appeared on the road and was kind enough to stop for us. The gentleman was a local who said he was aware of the correct trail to Vridhh Jageshwar and informed us that it is easily identifiable.

We were ecstatic to spot red rhododendron blooming flowers in the forest and even though the road was dusty, the drizzle came as a welcome delight with the smell of petrichor. Even though it was only around 4-415 pm, it started feeling a bit dark in the forested region and we heaved a sigh of relief when we finally saw a hiking trail emerge from the road. It was a sharp ascent and although I was still uncertain about us being on the right path, the occasional raindrops and cold breeze ensured that we kept going ahead rather than second guess.

After about 20-30 minutes the light improved as we climbed higher and were relieved to notice that the drizzle had stopped and the sun had started peeping through the clouds. The rhododendron flowers looked even more beautiful after having a shower in the rain. We clicked a few pictures and I made a mental calculation that there was daylight till 630 pm at least. Even if we were on the wrong trail, our general hiking direction was in the region of Vridhh Jageshwar Temple and we were quite confident about making it to a homestay before dark.

Just as I was starting to get worried about not reaching Vridhh Jageshwar nor seeing any signs if we were on the right trail, we came across a stone boundary and there were multiple trails branching from that place. It was getting super confusing and for a minute I contemplated turning back and just getting back to safety in Jageshwar since we knew the way back. As a distraction, we decided to take a small rest break sitting on the stone boundary and were pleased when a dog came from somewhere.

The presence of a dog increased the possibility of a settlement nearby and my joy knew no bounds when a group of women carrying firewood appeared from nowhere and told us that we might have missed the correct trail but pointed us to a path and said that we will hardly take 15-20 odd minutes to reach Vridhh Jageshwar Temple. It was about 515 pm and we thanked the ladies and rushed on the trail. We had a spring in our step and relief on our minds now that we finally knew that we were about to reach Vridhh Jageshwar Temple and that there were 2 homestay options there.

Within no time we reached a road-head where the road had very recently been laid with tar and for a moment wondered if we had to go left or right but google maps quickly solved the problem. Recent development in the remote areas means there is hardly any place left without mobile network and internet connectivity. The weather had totally cleared and the sun was out. We were in front of the Vridhh Jageshwar Temple and there were only a handful of buildings.

I had assumed that this was a temple town but the solitude felt even more pronounced when we saw that there were only a total of 4-5 buildings that comprised Vridhh Jageshwar! We were shown the room at one of the homestays and were quoted a reasonable price of INR 500-600. It was a basic but pretty comfortable room with an attached bathroom and the owner was soft spoken and a kind hearted man. The homestay doubled up as a dhaba with a general store and the owner lived there with his wife. We requested him for an early dinner of freshly cooked dal, vegetables, rotis at 730 pm and quickly asked him if there was a chance of attending either the evening or the morning aarti at the Vridhh Jageshwar Temple?!

He looked at the watch and asked us to rush to the temple as it was about to be 6 pm and the evening aarti would begin anytime now! We were having a great day and loved this piece of information and quickly walked to the Vridhh Jageshwar Temple. The evening colours in the sky were simply out of the world and the horizon was being painted in yellow and orange hues. Since we were at a much higher altitude, the air felt cleaner and colder and the green hills completed a pretty picture.

The temple was a massive stone structure and the architecture style was similar to the bigger temples in the Jageshwar Group of temples. The Vridhh Jageshwar Temple pre-dates the Jageshwar temples and is said to have been established in 7-8th Century AD. The evening aarti was about to begin and it felt peaceful and calm as there were no other pilgrims or visitors at Vridhh Jageshwar. There is a certain charm about visiting places off the main tourist circuit and we were quite pleased with being able to sit in the aarti and feel the mantras being chanted.

After 30 odd minutes the evening aarti was over, we thanked the Pandit Ji and spent some time gazing at the stupendous after-sunset views. We were super hungry and walked back to our homestay which also doubled up as a general store and a dhaba where pilgrims and visitors could get food made on order. It was almost 7 pm and food was going to take a little longer to get ready so we went to the room and aired it out a little. A bit of fresh air in closed rooms always works wonders. While Jageshwar felt hot during daytime, there was a proper chill in the air in Vridhh Jageshwar and it was not even night yet.

We were quite relieved when the owner uncle handed us an electric rod to heat water (if we needed it). The night skies from the homestay terrace were incredible in the absence of any light pollution in Vridhh Jageshwar. There was a solar powered light at the Vridhh Jageshwar temple but that was hidden by a big tree in the homestay compound. The electricity conked off and decided to give us an even more epic view of the stars. We weren’t complaining and went to the dhaba area when the food was ready.

It was nice to see a proper family run place and aunty was making hot chapatis. We gobbled up the offerings as we had nothing to eat after the fabulous lunch in the afternoon. The wind had really picked up and it felt like a thunderstorm was on its way. We ate well, thanked uncle and aunty wholeheartedly and went back downstairs to our room. It had started to get cloudy and funnily enough the electricity came back!

There was full 4G internet connectivity and it felt nice to lie down in the warmth indoors and do some aimless scrolling. We slept well, after all the body had a nice workout with the hike and was pretty tired.

It was a spectacular morning as the weather had cleared and a stunning 180 degree view of the Himalayan ranges awaited when we were going to the temple for the morning darshan and aarti. There were crystal clear views of Mount Trishul, Nanda Devi and other peaks. We were overjoyed and requested for aloo paranthas for breakfast and enjoyed them in the outdoor sun with the splendid views. Even though the original idea was to leave back for Kasar Devi early morning, it was a delay that felt totally worthwhile.

Someone mentioned that Vridhh Jageshwar lies on an old trekking/hiking route commonly used by pilgrims and it is possible to continue via walking trails to reach other important temples in the region. At around 11, we started walking towards Panuanaula (next sizeable village on the road) and I came across a signboard and a trail towards Jageshwar Dham which mentioned the walking distance as 3 kms. We quickly understood that we had surely got lost in the jungle yesterday and made it to Vridhh Jageshwar by a much longer and confusing trail. A shared taxi duly arrived and we got a ride till Panuanaula.

I don’t remember the exact sequence but it was rhododendron flower season and we got down at a place called Toli where there are a couple of local shops that make fresh squashes. The homestay uncle in Vridhh Jageshwar had given a reference of one of the squash makers and we ended up picking a number of bottles of the various varieties that they recommended. The prices were also quite reasonable, we thanked the owners and caught one of the numerous shared taxis bound for Almora.

It was a feeling of contentment and satisfaction to come back to our cottage in Kasar Devi!

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We left early from our home and were at the Allain Duhangan Power Project barrier gate after taking the diversion from Prini at about 930 am. There was an entry charge even for local vehicles, and I filled an online form for the same and paid. We also gave a ride to a local who was headed to Sethan. She confirmed that it was a nice and easy day hike to Chikka from the last point till where the vehicles went. We had a heavy breakfast at home and also carried some apples to enjoy on the hike.

Here are a few phone photographs of a stunning day hike from Sethan to Chikka in August :

We would have wanted to spend more time on the hike but the drizzle meant that we started hiking back and got back to the place where the car was parked at about 3 pm. So the time taken to reach Chikka was about 2 hours and we hardly took an hour to return.

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