Read : The Goodness of Strangers in Kerala

Anecdotes, photographs and a travel guide to Kochi :

Introduction and History of Fort Kochi or Fort Cochin

Most travellers choose Kochi as the first stop to the popular tourist state of Kerala; with convenient flight connections from all big cities in India. Fort Kochi (or Cochin) has the proud distinction of being the oldest and first European settlement in India, and retains a charming and bucolic feel. This ancient town’s complex history is reflected in a medley of distinct Indo-European architectural styles. Fort Kochi boasts of a classic mixture with Portuguese, Dutch, British and traditional Kerala houses adorning the streets of Malabar’s crown jewel. It was a massive surprise for me to come across Gujarati signboards advertising mithai walas in Mattancherry!

In the present day, Kochi (or Cochin, as it was known earlier) comprises of the following areas : Mattancherry, Fort Kochi and the commercial hub of the city; Ernakulam.

Among the plethora of sights and experiences in Kochi include 

• Mattancherry’s warehouses filled with Kerala’s much priceless spices like pepper; jostling with new age street art.
• The timeless Jew Town, with the oldest Synagogue in the Commonwealth and antique shops selling secret finds. 
• Fort Kochi for a Kathakali performance, choose your fresh seafood with a sunset cruise and feel good about life! 

History of Kochi or Cochin

The Portuguese came looking for pepper and arrived in Kochi in the year 1500 AD. They constructed Fort Immanuel (that signifies the fort in Fort Kochi) and St. Francis’ church; and transformed Kochi from a tiny fishing hamlet to a bustling town. The Dutch then took over and ruled Fort Kochi for more than 100 years, from 1663 until 1795. The British took over from the Dutch and only left with India’s Independence in 1947.

An intriguing fact is that Fort Kochi was a multi-ethnic society even before the Europeans arrived. According to legend – St. Thomas, The Apostle arrived in Kochi in 52 AD and gave Kochi its first Syrian Orthodox Christians. The Jews arrived in 70 AD, as a result of the First Jewish – Roman War’s siege of Jerusalem. 

Kochi was formed with a stroke of luck in 1341 AD – A flood created a safe natural port in Fort Kochi that was seen as an alternative to Muziris – which was the main harbour on the Malabar Coast. The royal family moved to Kochi from Muziris in 1405 firmly establishing it on the map.

Must Visit Sights & Experiences in Kochi 

Chinese Fishing Nets 

The Chinese fishing nets were introduced to Kochi by traders from the court of Kublai Khan, sometime between the 14th & 15th century. These humongous nets are set up on bamboo poles and require four men to control them. They remain a grand reminder of Kochi’s historic trade ties with the far East. The best time to watch them in action is from close to the Vasco da Gama Square in Fort Kochi at sunset time. Strolling around the Chinese fishing nets is free but if you want to see the fishermen in action, a tip is appreciated and they will explain the functioning.

Mattancherry Palace

Despite being built by the Portuguese in the 16th Century; Mattancherry Palace is more commonly known as the Dutch Palace. The Portuguese gifted it to the Raja of Kochi as a token of thanks for the trading rights granted to them. When the Dutch took over Fort Kochi in the year 1663, they remodelled the Mattancherry Palace in an extensive manner and the name ‘Dutch Palace’ has stuck since then. 

It looks unassuming from the outside but hides a wealth of riches in its two storey interiors! The vivid murals in some of the rooms are excellent examples of Kerala’s hardly known school of painting. The prized collection includes coronation robes of past Rajas, palanquins, Dutch maps of Old Cochin and royal family portraits, among other things.

Paradesi Synagogue in Jew Town

Although Kochi’s first Jewish settlers arrived in 52 AD; the Paradesi Synagogue was built more than 1,500 years later. Nondescript from the outside, one might entirely miss the Synagogue in the jumble of buildings in Jew Town! Paradesi Synagogue is the oldest active Synagogue in the Commonwealth and the Jewish community of Cochin has the distinction of being among the oldest Jewish communities in the world. (Paradesi = foreigner)

Visitors are only allowed to click photographs of the 18th century clock tower in the outdoors. Indoor photography is strictly not allowed and that means we must gaze longer at the incredibly beautiful blue and white ceramic floor tiles. These Cantonese tiles are very unique as every tile is hand-painted, all 1100 of them! Also notice the immaculate Belgian chandelier hanging from the ceiling. Old Torah scrolls with crowns presented by the Maharajas of Travancore and Cochin are also kept in the Paradesi Synagogue.

Only a handful of Jews remain in Kochi (around five-six), as most of them migrated to Israel in the 1940s. Prayer ceremonies are held at the Paradesi Synagogue when the minyan (minimum number of 10 men required for traditional Jewish public worship) is met.

St. Francis Church 

Originally built by the Portuguese in the early 16th Century, St. Francis Church is India’s oldest European church. Vasco da Gama was buried here when he died in Kochi; although his body was later moved to Lisbon in 1538 AD.

St. Francis Church, Kochi & India’s Colonial History

Santa Cruz Basilica 

The stunningly beautiful Santa Cruz Basilica in Kochi is one of the finest examples of Roman Catholic churches in entire India. It was built by the Portuguese in the early years of the 16th Century. The architectural style of the Santa Cruz Basilica is Gothic and I recommend morning / evening time for the best light for photography.  

Hill Palace at Tripunithura

I must thank Johann for taking me to this particular place as I was not aware of Tripunithura at all. The Hill Palace of Tripunithura has now been converted into a museum. The 17th Century wooden mandapa (hall) featuring carvings of episodes from the Ramayana is a classic exhibit. The annual festival held at the Shri Poornathrayeesa Temple in October-November on the way to the Hill Palace is a grand celebration.

Spices in Kochi

Even though the cacophonous trade around spices in Kochi has reduced considerably these days, the sorting warehouses still exist and function like they have done for hundreds of years. In Kerala, pepper is still sometimes referred to as black gold and when you are visiting, it makes sense to buy some spices straight from the source! Kochi International Pepper Exchange on the Jew Town Rd in Mattancherry was the place where you could until quite recently witness the bidding of different varieties of pepper; but the bidding is now done electronically. Among other spices; there is fine quality ginger, cloves, mace, star anise, nutmeg, cardamom. 

Traditional Kerala Cuisine 

Kochi is an excellent place to try the mind-boggling variety of traditional food of Kerala. Among the recommended dishes are : Puttu served with Kadala curry – a fine rice powder mixed with grated coconut steamed in a mini cylinder served with mildly spicy chickpea stew. Idi Appam and Kerala style egg curry – String hoppers with and spice rich tomato egg curry. Appam and vegetable stew – steamed rice pancakes served with vegetable curry in coconut milk. Malabar Parotta paired with numerous meat dishes. 

Traditional feast (Sadhya), is a multi-course meal extravaganza served on a banana leaf. There’s rice, ghee, variety of stews and curries like sambar, rasam, pachadi, appalam, avial and the last course is the sweet delicacy payasam. 

Kathakali : Kerala’s Classical Art

When in Kochi, visitors have a great chance to attend Kerala’s well known classical art form – kathakali. Kathakali combines various theatrical and performance elements, and is said to have developed during the 16th century. Traditionally, Kathakali performances are held for entire nights during festivals. In Kochi, however, a number of Kathakali performances are held for tourists in the Fort Kochi area and there is a reasonable fee for the 1-2 hour show.  

Sunset Cruise 

Sunset cruise time in Kochi is when the sun casts beautiful orange hues in the sky and a mellow breeze blows. There are numerous companies offering sunset cruises and tickets can be booked at the jetty counter in Fort Kochi. 

Dutch Cemetery

It was an unplanned stop when I came across the closed Dutch Cemetery on a walk in Fort Kochi. The Dutch Cemetery was established in 1724 and is closed to visitors unless you can grab hold of the caretaker! The tombstones at the Dutch Cemetery are said to be the an authentic record of the hundreds of Europeans (both Dutch and English) who lived and died here during the colonial rule of Kochi.

Where is the ‘fort’ in Fort Kochi? – Fort Immanuel 

Fort Immanuel was built by the Portuguese in the 16th century, and is the Fort after which Fort Kochi was named. It was completely destroyed by the Dutch and the British. In the present day, only the remnants of a few walls can be seen on a walk from the Vasco Da Gama square in Fort Kochi.

Bolgatty Palace 

Bolgatty Palace was built in 1744 and has the distinction of being among the oldest Dutch palaces outside of The Netherlands built by the Dutch. It lies on Bolgatty Island which is accessible by ferry.

Cherai Beach

Cherai Beach is about 30 kms from Fort Kochi. The best way to reach here is via the ferry from Fort Kochi to Vypin Island and then take a short bus ride to reach Cherai Beach. The sunset at Cherai Beach is especially beautiful. 

Kochi Muziris Biennale

Every two years, the Kochi-Muziris Biennale is held in Kochi. It is one of the largest art exhibitions in India; and has resulted in some fine art on display. 

Street Art 

The entire Fort Kochi area is full of vibrant street art, and is best explored on an unplanned walk in the tiny nooks and crannies. The graffiti with interesting themes and messages is refreshing and instrumental in bringing the old buildings to life. 

Old Kochi Heritage Walk

Chinese fishing nets, a Jewish synagogue, Kathakali performance, a ruined Portuguese Fort, Spice markets, India’s first European church and 17th Century Dutch homes can all be found on the Old Kochi Heritage walk.

Start walking from Vasco da Gama Square, where you can see the cantilevered Chinese fishing nets lining the shore, then stroll along the Church Road to reach St. Francis Church. Keep walking to see the signboard for the Dutch Cemetery Road, passing the cemetery on your right, and the crumbling walls of Fort Immanuel. Continue the walk to reach Bastion Street and follow the signboards to gaze at the stunning Santa Cruz Basilica.

Among the old colonial houses to be seen on the Old Kochi heritage walk for the blend of architecture are Thakur House, the Jewish Koder House (run as a heritage hotel), Pierce Leslie Bungalow, Ballard Bungalow, Bastion House built to guard the harbour on the old Dutch Fort’s Stromberg Bastion and Malabar House. Also worth a look is Bishop’s Bungalow for the Indo-Portuguese museum. All these old colonial houses are located in Fort Kochi and are accessible on the walk.

A Day in Kochi

Start the day with the Old Kochi Heritage Walk; breakfast at Kashi Art Cafe for excellent coffee and cakes. Head to Mattancherry via a rickshaw to visit the Mattancherry Palace or Dutch Palace and also the Paradesi Synagogue. Also peruse the antique shops and some of the spice shops as well. Enjoy lunch at the local favourite Paragon or Kayees Rahmatullah Café on the Gujarati road in Mattancherry. Spend the evening at Tripunithura Palace and back to Fort Kochi for dinner at the Old Harbour Hotel.

Where to eat in Kochi?

Among the best local recommendations are Paragon in Edappally, Kayees Rahmatullah Café for Biryani. In Fort Kochi, David Hall Gallery & Café, Kashi Art Cafe for coffee and café food while Brunton Boatyard, Pepper House and 1788 (restaurant at Old Harbour Hotel) are all classic fine-dine restaurants.

How to explore Kochi?

It is best to take the pleasures of Fort Kochi by walk as all the sights are accessible by foot and the distances are small. For longer distances; app based taxi services like ola, uber, cab be used. Autos and local buses are easily available too. A unique way to explore Kochi is by ferry. 

Ferry : The ferries are a cheap way to get around Kochi’s main areas considering the traffic at rush our. Regular government ferries ply from Fort Kochi and the different islands and areas are all well connected by ferries as it is the mode of transport that the locals use.

When is the best time to visit Kochi?

July to September is monsoon time and thats when Kochi is at its prettiest in the bountiful rain and greenery. November to February is commonly the most favoured time when the temperatures are bearable. Hotel prices are at their highest in the peak winter season.

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When Kerala Tourism got in touch for a unique campaign called ‘Human by Nature’, it was an apt time for me to dig in through years of memories and note down some unforgettable experiences.

Human Stories of Kindness from across Kerala

Heritage Quarter Walk in Fort Kochi

Walking through the streets of Fort Kochi was like walking through many centuries of history. Since the 13-14th Century, Kochi has been frequented by Dutch, Arab, Chinese, Portuguese, and British traders. Even the hostel that I was staying in was in an old building and had a pleasing feel. The Heritage Quarter area of Fort Kochi is especially endearing and is full of heritage delights at every turn.

Since there were not many people at the hostel during the off season, one of the local guys was more than happy to show me the lesser known lanes of Fort Kochi.

Kochi was a multicultural hotspot in the days of yore where people of many different ethnicities, religions and nationalities lived together. Among the most varied sights are St. Francis Church, The Dutch Cemetery, remains of Fort Immanuel (built in 1503 AD). Fort Kochi is also dotted with old Colonial-style houses, most of which are in good condition and some of them have been converted into hotels. Among the prominent old colonial houses to be seen are Vasco House, Bastion Bungalow, Koder House, Bishop’s House.

Local Cuisine of Kerala

In the touristy area of Fort Kochi, I wasn’t sure if the restaurants and cafés would serve me authentic Kerala food. It was by a sheer stroke of luck that I stumbled upon a tiny eatery located close to the hostel. Everyday, they would serve traditional Kerala cuisine on a banana leaf which also looked pretty in addition to being very tasty!

I got served idi-appams, puttu with Kerala style egg curry for lunch. I would roam around Fort Kochi area and only tried eating at one of the cafés once. I figured the gentleman at the small dhaba was my best bet of the local cuisine of Kerala. It was exotic to try the pink coloured water at first but when the locals told me about the health benefits, I was hooked to it.

On subsequent trips to the Malabar Coast and Wayanad too, I ate at local eateries all the time. My most memorable instance of human connection in Kerala is dining at a one bench eatery run by an old man on the link road near Chundail in Wayanad. With no common language to make a conversation, the old man ensured I was fed well and used to only charge 40 Rupees for a meal. Since that was the only eatery in the vicinity of the hostel, I ended up spending a lot of time there and was happy to slip in a 100 Rupee note into his pocket when I left!

Read : India’s French Colony : Pondicherry, A Photo Story

Kerala Sadhya

Sadhya is a traditional Kerala meal that is served on a banana leaf. In Kerala, it is customary for every important function or festival to be graced with a serving of Sadhya.

Sadhya comprises of more than 24 dishes including par boiled red rice, avial, koottukary, puliserri, olan, sambar, rasam, savouries, pickles, pachadi, payasam. Sadhya is a dazzling array of flavours that I will remember for a lifetime. On a trip to Wayanad, I was lucky to be served Sadhya by helpful locals.

In the earlier days, Sadhya used to be served at feasts and people used to eat it in a communal seating by sitting on the floor. In the modern times, Sadhya is also served at specialised eateries and is served on a banana leaf in the contemporary style table and chair restaurants.

Exploring Mattancherry on a Walk

Mattancherry is the traditional trading area of Kochi. Over 500 years, it has witnessed an influx of migrants, traders and invaders. I was able to explore some offbeat sights of Mattancherry thanks to Johann (fellow blogger and resident of Kochi).

Among the old sights to visit in Mattancherry are Calvathy Jamath Mosque, Mattancherry Palace, and Pardesi Synagogue. Pardesi Synagogue in Jew Town has beautiful Belgian chandeliers, and hand-painted Cantonese tiles from China. The nearby lanes are filled with cafés, antique shops and spice shops.

In the present times too, Mattancherry reflects this ethnic and cultural diversity and is a curious mix of the old and new; with traditional streets and businesses jostling with quirky street art and many old structures converted into heritage hotels.

Spices of Kerala

The spices of Kerala are what attracted the Europeans to India’s shores. The first European traders arrived in Cochin in the 16th Century and started competing for trade with the Arab merchants.

I got interested in Kerala spices on a spice plantation walk in Vythiri, Wayanad. The fresh breeze in the forest, with coffee growing and the aroma of the spices is delightful.

When I was in Kozhikode, a few helpful locals directed me an authentic local place to buy all the spices of Kerala. I was able to buy cloves, cardamom, pepper, cinnamon, nutmeg, star anise, nutmeg, caraway seeds, mace at very reasonable prices. My bag smelled of the spices even 2 months after my Kerala trip!

Neelakasham Pachakadal Chuvanna Bhoomi

This is an unexpected addition to this post! It is a roadtrip based Kerala movie that literally translates to ‘Blue Sky, Green Sea, Red Earth’. I have seen this movie numerous times and it remains my first memory of Kerala before I even visited the state (of course seen with english subtitles).

In this movie, two friends start on a trip from Kerala to Nagaland on their motorbikes. One of the guy’s motive is to find his girlfriend who lives in Nagaland. They travel through various parts of India and the journey and incidents on the road make the movie interesting. I especially like how the movie ends, ‘It must have started snowing in Tawang…’.

Sunset on Bekal Beach

On one of the days in Kozhikode, I decided to head to Kannur and try and make it close to Mangalore, to find a cheap homestay and chill on the beach anywhere on the Malabar Coast! I somehow got to Kannur in a slow bus, reached the train station to take a train to Kasaragod. Kasaragod didn’t quite turn out to be the tropical paradise that I had dreamt it to be.

I quickly decided to catch a bus to Bekal. Bekal also turned out to be a town where the beach wasn’t as close as I had thought it would be. After a conversation with an immensely helpful auto guy, I finally landed on the beach near Taj Bekal. It was magical to walk on the pristine beach in the mellow evening light with cool sand in the feet.

It was a surreal sunset and with my suitcase I spent some time enjoying the after-sunset colours; the auto guy also helped me find a cheap place to stay.

Human by Nature – Video by Kerala Tourism

Finding a hostel in Wayanad

I had got down sleepy eyed from the bus in Kalpetta and was finding it very troublesome to find a reasonable accommodation. After roaming around aimlessly for more than 2 hours with my backpack, I got lucky when a local decided to help me. He asked me to sit on his bike and took me to a hostel perched on a hillock near a small town by the name of Chundail.

The hostel was a colonial home and had a view of the Chembra peak and was located amidst a coffee estate and spice plantations. I never would have got here without the local’s help! It was only just that I spent 2-3 days here enjoying nature’s bounty.

Click to view slideshow.

The Spirit of Kerala in the slideshow. 

Organic and Sustainable Farm

A friend from Kerala, George took me to his friend’s estate when I was in Wayanad. Golden Greens estate is a sustainable and organic farm spread over 5 acres. It is the brainchild of Mr. Laiju who also led us on a walk and explained how organic coffee and tea are cultivated.

I also met volunteers at this organic farm in Wayanad who had come to learn more about sustainable farming. It was wonderful to learn about organic farming done while keeping nature in mind.

Note : This post is sponsored by Kerala Tourism as part of their campaign ‘Human By Nature’. Opinions and words on this blog are always mine.

I would love to listen to your human experiences of Kerala? Please share in the comments. 

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Where Exactly is Malabar Coast in Kerala?

The Northern part of Kerala adjoining the beach is known as Malabar coast and the entire region is enchanting. I was instantly in love with the sparsely crowded beaches surrounded by coconut plantations, a constant stiff breeze bringing fresh air, inland waterways called backwaters and fragrant spice plantations.

My Most Memorable Experiences from the Malabar Coast, Kerala

The Peaceful Beach at Nileshwaram

Nileshwaram (Also called Neeleshwar or Nileshwar) is a small village characterised by swaying palm trees and pristine beaches. It is blessed with a charming location on the Malabar Coast in Kerala. I distinctly remember being lulled to sleep by the sound of the crashing waves in Nileshwaram.

Nileshwar Palace is the old palace of Nileshwaram Rajas. In the morning, it was magical to walk on the pristine white sandy beach with cool sand in the feet. Hammocks hung beneath towering coconut trees almost extending an invitation as we lay on sun beds soaking in the gorgeous views of the ocean. Little huts on the sand had been laid out on the beach itself and it was otherworldly to enjoy breakfast in the beautiful surroundings. I did not get to experience it, but Theyyam performances in Nileshwar are quite popular even among local Keralites.

1500 year old Ship Building Industry in Beypore

Beypore is a sleepy town located on the banks of the Chaliyar river and a traditional hub for shipbuilding on the Malabar Coast of Kerala. It is situated around 10-15 kms away from Kozhikode. I’d boarded an auto rickshaw for going to shipbuilding area in Beypore but due to the language confusion, the auto guy dropped me in an entirely different place. Google maps came to the rescue and I somehow walked to the shipbuilding area in Beypore with my (huge) backpack. I was in an awkward scenario dripping in sweat unable to adjust to the humidity of the Malabar Coast in Kerala, even in the comparatively cooler month of February.

As soon as I reached the shipbuilding lane, I was astounded to see the huge ship being worked on by a number of carpenters. They were busy working on the partially built ship of wooden logs, and for me it was like being thrust right into the middle of the action. With the limited interaction possible due to the language barrier, I couldn’t really talk much but the people tried to show me the ship from the inside and explain the process.

From the limited knowledge I gathered – Ships made in Beypore are called uru in the local parlance. The Uru is a wooden dhow, quite huge in size and a single ship may sometimes take 2-3 years to build. Jackfruit tree wood and rosewood are used for designing the interiors. According to the workers, these ships are made without any fixed work plan or blueprint; apparently the mistry gives daily instructions to the workers. It was astonishing to know thats how the entire ship is built!

1498 – First Europeans set foot in India at Kappad Beach

I’d read in history books long back in school that Calicut is the place where the first Europeans landed in India. After coming to Kerala, it was known that Kappad Beach is the historic beach where Vasco da Gama landed on 27th May 1498. That is how the Portuguese history and the colonial history of India had its inception. Kappad beach is located around 20 kms north of Kozhikode on the Malabar Coast in Kerala.

To my surprise, upon reaching Kappad beach, there was a monument commemorating the same spot where Vasco da Gama landed more than 500 years ago; it is called Kappakadavu. If you are a history lover, Kappad beach has an old world charm of bygone times and it also makes for a nice place to spend an evening to enjoy a gorgeous sunset as well.

Experiencing the Magical Backwaters on Malabar Coast, Kerala

The backwaters on the Malabar Coast of Kerala consist of a zig-zag network of lagoons, lakes & canals and is a truly memorable delight. I was lucky to experience the backwaters in the recommended, local manner. We were on a traditional thatch-roofed houseboat, locally known as ‘kettuvallam’ and it slowly floated through the maze of canals.

Almost all the houseboats plying in the backwaters around Malabar Coast in Kerala are renovated cargo boats that are complete with all modern comforts and conveniences. According to the locals I met, nearly every family owns a houseboat in this region. It was stunning to observe the sunset from the houseboat while the beauty of the colours of nature got accentuated in the reflections on water.

On the houseboat ride, we were in the pristine valiyaparamba backwaters of Kerala, and had a glimpse of unspoilt nature with age-old traditions. Villages are set in the backwaters and are surrounded by paddy fields, their main occupation is fishing. The funniest memory for me is when I pretended to be the Captain of the Ship by wearing the hat and steering the wheel left and right!

Slow Walks in the Bounty of Nature

Walks in the countryside of Malabar Coast region took me on little trails that were shaded with coconut trees. I meandered through the plantations which are perfect for short hikes. Wherever you go, the trails are blessed with stunning vistas of the backwaters, and runs very close to pristine beaches. The locals I met all through the journeys in Kerala were very friendly and inspite of the language barrier, my time in this state will remain a cherished memory.

Delicious Kallumakkai (mussels) Biryani in Thalassery

Thalassery is a beautiful old town with a fort on the Malabar Coast in Kerala. Out of the around 8000 tonnes of green mussels harvested annually in north Kerala, Thalassery is one of the top three producers of mussels. Malabari biryani, especially the Thalassery Biryani, has a subtle taste and not heavily flavoured like its North Indian counterpart. While Hyderabad is famous for dum biryani, Thalassery mussel biryani is really meant to be savoured as one of the top biryanis in India!

And what a sight it was; after we ended up at one of the recommended eateries in Thalassery town. We were 8 of us, and we ate like hungry beasts eager to devour whatever variety of biryani appeared on the table!

Apart from the Biryani in Thalassery; Mambally’s Royal Biscuit Factory is the place where the plum cake was baked in India over 135 years ago. While Thalassery’s biryanis are famous, it is the mussel biryani that is a must try. There are many restaurants recommended by the locals and Rara Avis is a safe bet. Another interesting fact about Thalassery is that cricket was first played here in India.

Sunset at Bekal Beach near Kasaragod, Kerala

If not for catching the sunset, this experience could have easily made it to the Failures on the Road – Stupidity in Changthang, Ladakh. I had started the day in Kozhikode and after visiting the Ship Builders in Beypore had decided to head in the direction of Kannur and then try and make it somewhere close to Mangalore and try and find a cheap homestay and chill on the beach anywhere on the Malabar Coast!

In reality, I somehow got to Kannur in a slow bus, reached the train station to take a train to Kasaragod. The train turned out to be quite late and it was around evening by the time I reached Kasaragod. Kasaragod didn’t quite turn out to be the tropical paradise that I had dreamed it to be. I quickly made up my mind and boarded a bus to reach Bekal. Bekal also turned out to be a town where the beach wasn’t as close as I had thought it would be. I ran shelter-skelter with my bags before it became dark to try and find a homestay near the beach. After some hitched rides and unsuccessful stories, I finally landed on the beach near Taj Bekal.

I hadn’t found a homestay yet but the sun was setting and the scene was so immense that I was torn between two feelings. I was very worried about finding a nice homestay, but also immensely happy to have made it to the pristine Bekal beach. I spent some time enjoying the after-sunset colours; walked back to the main road to get lucky, hitch a ride and found a cheap place to stay.

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Backpacking in Wayanad : Top Offbeat Experiences

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And in a mix of all kinds of experiences over multiple trips, these are a few of the offbeat delights of Wayanad.

Hostel Experience in Wayanad

Most people think that backpackers don’t have much choice in accommodation. I’d say thats quite an incorrect assumption. Backpackers and budget travellers are usually evolved travellers who are keen on seeking stays that are not huge multi-storeyed hotels. And on one such day, after an endless walk – I found myself at a hostel in Wayanad (Yes, hostel!).

The hostel was perched on a hillock in the midst of spice plantations and coffee estate, a blissful and true luxury in a hostel with a view of Chembra peak. Staying at this colonial looking abode converted into a luxury hostel, I was amazed with the breathtaking view of unmatched greenery, stunning peaks and cloud kissed mountains. And the best part was that this hostel is located away from a town in Wayanad and has clean beds, airy rooms and running hot water in the bathrooms. 

Among other facilities, cooking kitchen with all utensils, open-air lounge, wi-fi is available. Mobile network connectivity is not very great but who cares! I met other travellers from Bangalore and we did some stargazing in the night! 

Tranquility in Wayanad : Bamboo Rafting

A totally unexpected and one of the best offbeat experiences in entire Wayanad! The bamboo rafting activity is a superb mix of adrenaline rush with the calmness of nature.

Apparently, bamboo rafts were traditionally used as an indigenous method for farmers to transport rice across the river. Bamboo rafting is a relaxing activity and with luck, you can easily spot the famous Malabar Hornbill bird while on the 1 hour long experience.

The rafting was near Vythiri town in Wayanad on a tributary of Kabini river. Life jackets were provided and depending on the water level swimming in the river might be allowed for the participants if they desire. The best part about this experience was that I also tried rafting with the long pole-shaped oars!

Toddy Shops in Wayanad

Toddy tastes like a sweet fermented drink which turns stronger and more intoxicating as the day goes on. It is fresh and the locals swear by its medicinal properties, although toddy is also mildly intoxicating! Toddy shops are spread across Kerala and are a big hit with the locals. Many thanks to Johann for introducing me to toddy in Kochi! 

The food at the toddy shops is also top notch and it makes sense to spend evenings at the toddy shops in Wayanad for a local flavour. The entire bottle costs less than 100 Rupees and is a totally offbeat way to get high!

A hilarious anecdote : Once, I was walking to Pookode lake near Vythiri; it was evening time and just before I reached the lake there was a signboard indicating toddy shop. The sightseeing plan of the lake went for a toss and you know what happened next! 

Churches of Wayanad

It was wonderful to experience the splendour of the marvellous churches in different towns of Wayanad and I was lucky to attend the prayers as well. 

The prevalent religion in Kerala is Christianity and the churches of Wayanad are a great way to explore the architecture of Wayanad. Among the important churches that I saw was Assumption Forane Church which is situated in Sulthan Bathery. There was another newly built church that has a dazzling interior and is used for town ceremonies as well.

Kalpetta also houses a few churches and if its a Sunday you can attend the Sunday Mass as well. On one occasion, I saw a ceremony being conducted inside the gorgeous interiors of a Church in Sulthan Bathery.

Exotic Bamboo Rice in Wayanad

I must thank George for this as he was the one who took me around on his bike and enabled a taste of the rare preparation of bamboo rice made from bamboo flowers, that bloom only once in around 50 years. We ate it at one of the local eateries outside Edakkal Caves. 

Bamboo rice is a rare variety of rice that is grown out of bamboo flowers; and apparently this phenomena happens once every 50 years or so and then the bamboo tree dies after that. It’s a fascinating natural process. The rice has low fat and is rich in vitamin B. The tribes in Kerala use this rice to cure joint pain owing to the presence of vitamins. The bamboo rice payasam or sweet porridge is a mix of bamboo rice, jaggery and other ingredients and was really really tasty!

Authentic Kerala Sadhya

Sadhya is the traditional Kerala meal served on a banana leaf. Every important function or festival is served with Sadya. There are more than 24 dishes on Sadhya comprising of par boiled red rice, savouries, pickles, avial, koottukary, puliserri, olan, sambar, rasam, pachadi and payasam. There are many other dishes served and it is best experienced to relish the sadhya rather than read about it!

Sadya is a dazzling array of flavours that I will remember for a lifetime. While in the earlier days, it was served at feasts and people used to sit on the floor; In the modern setting, tables and chairs are used while the use of banana leaf is mandatory. I wished I had a bigger stomach when I enjoyed the sadhya!!

Spice Plantation Walk

What a walk through a scenic plantation of coffee, vanilla, nutmeg and other spices!

This spice plantation walk was in a 150 acre area in South Wayanad. The spices grown in the highlands of Wayanad are sent to Calicut, Kochi and other parts of Kerala for trade (I got some as well!) Apart from coffee estates and tea gardens; pepper, coconut, nutmeg, cardamom and other spices are cultivated here. According to locals – Growing spices also helps aerate the soil and keep the coffee free of weeds.

As you walk through the vast area with coffee plantations, paddy fields, spices you wonder if you have entered a spice haven with the rich aroma around. It is fascinating to learn the process of coffee beans from the tree to how it ends up in our coffee mug!

Organic and Sustainable Farm

Thanks to George again for taking me to the Golden Greens estate. It is great for birding besides leisurely walks to understand how organic coffee and tea are cultivated. One can also participate in farm work and learn the traditional and old methods of farming. In the core area of the estate, the huge natural reservoir fed by natural springs is important for local flora and fauna.

The sustainable and organic farm was located only 3.5 kms from Ambalavayal town. It is spread over 5 acres and is a really tranquil place. The various activities that one can experience on a volunteering experience here are : Handmade tea, Eco Farm Experiences, Eco Farm Produces, Bio Fertilisers, Plantation activities, Organic Farming.

Tea Tasting in a Historical Tea Estate

After taking a winding road, we reached the 1930s Parisons tea estate. The grandeur and colonial feel of the bungalow with the cool breeze was very welcoming. The tea gardens are perched on a mountain top and are a part of the 4000 acre tea garden set among green mountains.

In this charming British era tea estate, I learnt the fascinating process of tea making from growing it to the final step of tea tasting. The tea tasting expert will enlighten you on the intricate art of brewing the perfect cup of tea and the difference between various teas made at the estate. He will also show you the right way of sipping the tea and the other nuances of tea tasting.

In the multiple trips to Wayanad, these were a few offbeat experiences that I recollect. It was a great beginning to my South Indian sojourns and were very reasonable on the pocket!

More posts from South India :

St. Francis Church, Kochi & India’s Colonial History

Danish Delight in India – Tranquebar (Tharangambadi)

A Travel Guide to Pondicherry’s Attractions

Food Heaven : Cafés & Restaurants in Auroville

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As I walked through the hallowed hall, I realised that this was a Church that was inextricably linked with India’s Colonial History. I could not help but wonder in amazement at how much this Church had seen over a period of 500 years, when it was established by the Portuguese.

History of St. Francis Church, Fort Kochi

St. Francis Church is India’s oldest European church and was first constructed around 1503 by the Portuguese. It was originally built with wood, but was subsequently replaced by the present stone structure in 1516 AD. In the present day, the St. Francis Church is an unassuming structure in light yellow set amidst greenery surrounded by high boundary walls.

The Church is believed to have been built by the Franciscan friars, and over the centuries passed through the hands of the Dutch who converted it into a Protestant Church; and finally under the British occupation it was converted into an Anglican Church. Regular services are held at St. Francis church which is now under the Church of South India.

Vasco da Gama was originally buried at St. Francis Church when he died at Le Colonial (name of the house) in Kochi in 1524. His body was later moved to Lisbon in 1538, but there is still a tombstone in Portuguese signifying the same.

The Church has a simple façade that was used as a model for Churches that were built later. There are many gravestones with inscriptions inside the Church. The hall has a high ceiling and gives the impression of a really old building. As with other religious establishments, one is required to leave the footwear outside the main entrance of the Church.

A signboard outside the Church indicates : “Surmounted by a bell turn over the gabled front, the Church, facing west, has an impressive façade with an arched entrance and windows flanked by steeped pinnacles. The earliest Portuguese epitaph in the Church dates back to 1562 AD while that of the Dutch from 1664 AD.”

Click on the pictures to see Vasco da Gama’s connection with the St. Francis Church.

Pepper, Spice Trade, & the Europeans

The Portuguese (and also the entire world!) was seeking a sea route between Europe and the East so they could trade directly in spices. It was the lure of pepper that meant – on 20th May 1498 Vasco da Gama made it to the Malabar Coast near the town of Calicut (Kozhikode). Everyone, including the Jews, Arabs, the Greeks and the Chinese were keen on the spice trade with India because of its lucrative appeal.

The Portuguese began their trade but moved from Calicut to Cochin after being expelled by the rulers of Calicut. It is said that around 1550, the Maharaja of Kochi gave permission for the construction of the first European fort in India. Cochin had hitherto been an obscure fishing hamlet that became India’s first European settlement.

In 1663, the Portuguese lost and thus Cochin fell to the Dutch, and in 1814 Cochin was occupied by the British until it was finally assimilated into the Indian union in 1947. All these foreign influences left their mark, with fascinating architecture spread across Fort Kochi.

Looking back in time, it was Vasco da Gama’s arrival in 1498 that opened the floodgates to European colonialism as the Portuguese, Dutch and English came and ruled at different times. Vasco da Gama guided the first expedition to reach the Indian coast via the Cape of Good Hope and Arabian Sea.

Did you like this post? Have stories to narrate from this region? I would love to check them out. Share in the comments below. 

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