Marshrutka / Minibus from Tbilisi to Mtskheta and back

The distance between Tbilisi and Mtskheta is hardly 20-25 kms and takes less than an hour even with Tbilisi’s busy traffic. There are no buses that ply between Tbilisi and Mtskheta and even though the official Georgian train website shows that passenger trains stop in Mtskheta, be advised that Mtskheta railway station is quite far (about 2 kms) from the town itself and train schedules are sporadic making it an unwise choice to try and visit Mtskheta by train from Tbilisi. Mtskheta lies in the historical Mtskheta-Mtianeti region.

Regular marshrutkas (minibuses) ply between Didube to Mtskheta and are the easiest way to reach Mtskheta from Tbilisi. These marshrutkas are usually 16-20 seater Mercedes Sprinter vehicles and run every 30 odd minutes starting from 7 am from Didube station while the last marshrutka for Mtskheta departs from Didube at 8 pm (or sometimes even later in the summer). We took less than 30 minutes to cover the 18 km distance from Didube to Mtskheta. We were not sure if the driver would take us into town so we decided to get down as soon as we saw the walk-only pedestrian street! Later, we came to know that the last stop in Mtskheta is the parking spot at the end of the town quite close to Old Mtskheta.

Where exactly to take the marshrutka at Didube?

We had booked a small family run hotel quite close to Samgori / Isani metro station for two nights as our flight landed in Tbilisi at the uncomfortable hour after midnight. From Isani metro station, it was quite easy to figure the Tbilisi metro and reach Didube station where a few taxi drivers offered us a ‘cheap’ ride to Mtskheta for 20 Georgian Lari (GEL). We politely declined their (expensive) offer and promptly found the Mtskheta marshrutka ticket counter. After confirming the 2 GEL per person one way ticket price with locals who were also waiting for the marshrutka for Mtskheta, we paid and got our paper tickets. It is important to remember that the last marshrutka from Mtskheta to Tbilisi (Didube) runs at around 8-830 pm and is likely to be full so it is best to time your return to Tbilisi by daylight to avoid any unforeseen adventure!

In principle, you can hire a taxi for Mtskheta anywhere in Tbilisi or even use a bolt or maxim taxi (internet app-based taxis) but the prices are likely to be standard in Didube. If you are a group of four, then your best bet is to get early to Didube and negotiate a good price with a taxi driver to take you to Mtskheta and also include the other sights of interest like the Shio-Mgvime monastery and Zedazeni monastery.

Introduction to Mtskheta

Mtskheta is the former capital of Georgia and an ancient city that was established between the 1st and 5th Century BC. It is located at a enviable point of the confluence of Mtkvari (Kura river) and Aragvi rivers and jaw-dropping views of the confluence can be seen from Jvari Monastery. Mtskheta has a number of monuments included in the UNESCO World Heritage, that was bestowed in the year 1994. The old Mtskheta town around the centrally located Svetitskhoveli cathedral is a bucolic sight with cobblestone streets and green mountains in the backdrop. Mtskheta’s importance of being steeped in Georgian culture is evident in the fact that it is a favourite place for Georgians to get married and for pre-wedding photoshoots.

This travel guide to Mtskheta includes all that you need to know about visiting Mtskheta on a day trip from Tbilisi. It includes details on – how to reach Mtskheta and transport options from Tbilisi, must visit attractions in Mtskheta, time taken for exploring, food, wine tasting, shopping, and timing your return back to Tbilisi.

History of Mtskheta

Mtskheta is one of Georgia’s oldest towns and was the capital of the Kingdom of Kartli in East Georgia from the 3rd Century BC till the 6th Century AD when the capital was shifted to Tbilisi after the discovery of the sulphur springs in Abanotubani. Mtskheta gained importance as it lies at a strategic location; at the intersection of trade routes from Byzantium, Syria, Roman Empire, Silk Road that resulted in a rich commercial exchange with the mingling of different cultures. Mtskheta remains the spiritual and religious centre of Georgia since Mtskheta is where Christianity was first embraced as Georgia’s official religion in the year 337 AD.

Accorded the UNESCO World Heritage Site status, the Historical Monuments of Mtskheta include Jvari Monastery, Svetitskhoveli Cathedral and Samtavro’s Convent. These three medieval religious establishments are home to precious relics of Christianity; painted frescoes and burial sites with graves of monarchs and royalty from the times when Georgia was a Kingdom. History lovers are in for a treat as the region around Mtskheta is rich in Old Georgian architecture and is dotted with churches, caves, archaeological sites, ancient chapels, palaces and forts.

Svetitskhoveli Cathedral

Originally built in the 4th-5th Century AD, Svetitskhoveli Cathedral is a stunning sight and is likely to be your lasting memory of Mtskheta. The present structure dates to the 11th Century AD and the Orthodox cathedral complex exudes a calm and spiritual vibe with the greenery amidst the mountain view. It is a perfect example of the medieval architecture of the Caucasus. As you enter the spacious cathedral complex from the street, you can see a number of women selling fresh flowers. It was a weekday when we visited and found it quite amusing to come across a number of weddings and see newlyweds getting clicked in the green lawns with the cathedral. I can only imagine the scene of wedding parties on weekends! Although it can get pretty crowded inside Svetitskhoveli cathedral, take your time to gaze at the frescoes and carvings.

A number of Georgia’s most important monarchs are buried at Svetitskhoveli Cathedral, including King Vakhtang Gorgasali, the founder of Tbilisi. Qvevri pots (for winemaking) can be seen scattered in the monastery complex and also don’t miss the beautiful bell tower built in a different corner of the entrance. Candles and souvenirs can be bought at the monastery shop located on the right after entering. There are scarfs and skirts available at the entrance if you are inappropriately dressed for entering the church.

Jvari Monastery

Also called the Holy Cross Monastery of Jvari; Jvari Monastery is one of the oldest monasteries in Georgia (by some accounts, the holy wooden cross was erected here in the 5th Century). According to legend – in the early 4th century, St. Nino, a female Christian preacher erected a large wooden cross on this site where Jvari Monastery was built later. The distance between Mtskheta and Jvari Monastery is 12 kms and round-trip taxis are easily available in Mtskheta for about 20 GEL. The 6th Century church in Jvari Monastery is located on top of a mountain and is the most sacred and revered church in entire Georgia. The chief pull of Jvari Monastery is the bird’s eye view of entire Mtskheta old town overlooking the confluence of the Aragvi and Mtkvari rivers.

While the exterior of Jvari Monastery is quite rustic and simple; the symmetric building is built in what can be called old Georgian architecture. It is perched on a hilltop and hiking to Jvari Monastery is possible via a trail from the park in Mtskheta; but not recommended unless you have an entire day out. If you have organised a taxi from Tbilisi, it may be a good idea to visit Jvari Monastery in the end so that you can enjoy the incredible view of Mtskheta town with Svetitskhoveli Cathedral in the centre during sunset time! The sacred St. Nino’s spring locally revered to be a healing water source is a 15 minute hike from Jvari monastery.

Samtavro’s Convent

We had not planned our day in Mtskheta and wandered with an explorer’s air to find ourselves right in front of the Samtavro’s Convent. Samtavro’s Convent is a pleasant ten minute walk from main Mtskheta town. The monastery complex is set among gardens and has a relaxed, open vibe since it is relatively less crowded than the Svetitskhoveli Cathedral. The church at Samtavro’s Convent was originally established in the 4th century and has been restored a number of times. The present day building of the main church was built in the early 11th century. Samtavro’s convent houses the grave of King Mirian III – the king of Iberia (Kartli kingdom) who established Christianity as the official religion in Georgia.

We drank and filled our water bottle from the spring water where the locals were also quenching their thirst. There was also a small chapel – St. Nino Chapel (Tsminda Nino) which is an active chapel with frescoes and a priest inside. While walking around the monastery grounds, take notice of the bell tower as well. On the other side of the entrance is the church shop where visitors can buy candles and souvenirs. While going back, we noticed old men and women asking for alms from visitors while some others were selling some dried herbs(?)

Samtavro Necropolis

The ancient cemetery of Mtskheta; Samtavro Necropolis is located just 500m away or a 5 minute walk from Samtavro’s Convent and is the most peaceful stroll in Mtskheta. This burial ground has been in use since the 3rd Century BC and is steeped in history. It also served as the burial place for the royal family. The Samtavro Necropolis or mausoleum is a lesser visited monument and can be called an offbeat attraction in Mtskheta.

Antioch Church

Antioch Church is a 4th-5th Century church built on the banks of the Aragvi river just before its confluence with Kura river. To reach here, take a walk in the residential by-lanes in Mtskheta old town and turn right for the riverside. There are hardly any visitors to be seen at the relatively austere-sized Antioch Church (also called St. Stephen’s Church). The church complex is pleasing with the greenery especially after seeing the crowds on the tourist trail in Mtskheta. Enjoy the sweeping view of Jvari Monastery and savour the blissful breeze of the river. Do not miss the colourful frescoes in the interior of Antioch Church. Due to lesser popularity of this attraction, I can denote the Antioch Church to be an offbeat place to visit in Mtskheta.

Shio-Mgvime Monastery

The 6th Century Shio-Mgvime monastery is set into a rugged hillside and lies at a distance of 12 kms from Mtskheta. Caves used by monks for meditation can be seen all over the cliff face of the hillside. There is no marshrutka or shared transport to visit the Shio-Mgvime monastery from Mtskheta or Tbilisi, hence it is best to discuss and finalise a taxi with other tourists for visiting Jvari Monastery and Shio-Mgvime to make it economical. Take some time to roam around the scenic monastery complex (accommodating about 2000 monks at one time) to see beautiful gardens housing two churches. The interiors of the bigger church have perhaps the most well preserved frescoes in Mtskheta. The smaller church is called the Shio Cemetery Church; in honour of the monk Shio who founded this site. The church shop sells excellent quality of honey and beeswax candles made on site!

Exploring Mtskheta on Foot : Heritage Walk in Mtskheta

Rather than making a checklist, the joy of travel lies in the unplanned and serendipitous encounters. The quiet by-lanes of this historical old town of Mtskheta are apt to check the rich architectural style of Georgian houses with the courtyards shaded with grape vines, elaborately carved wooden balconies and the greenery. We were enamoured with the heritage houses sporting a faint red of autumn in the trees, vintage cars, art nouveau signboards and decided that Mtskheta is worth staying for a couple of nights (at least) if we come to Georgia again.

Among other places to see in Mtskheta; Bebri Tsikhe (abandoned fortress on a hillock) easily reached by a 20-30 minute walk from Mtskheta, Zedazeni Monastery, the colourful mosaic painting outside the Mtskheta Archaeological Museum (not open); St. Barbara Church, in a different direction – Armaziskhevi Archaeological Site, Armazi Tsikhe (fortress), Armazi Monastery and a few other churches around Mtskheta.

Souvenir Shopping in Mtskheta

There are pedestrian streets (ocassionally used by cars) around Svetitskhoveli Cathedral square where vendors set up market stalls and souvenir shops. Tourists can purchase churchkela, carpets, quirky fridge magnets, spices, fresh juice, wine ice-cream in summer and in winter, mulled wine. Also on offer are wine, chacha (grape liquor), souvenirs like scarfs, Georgian caps and hats, handmade dolls, ceramics and paintings. Among unique souvenirs on sale are kantsi – traditional Georgian drinking vessel (now mass-produced), tklapi (fruit snack), and hand-painted fridge magnets.

This market in Mtskheta is a very touristy area so it is good to be aware that prices quoted can often be very high. It may be a good idea to bargain subtly and see if the seller offers a better price. After having gone around the other parts of Georgia over a good 16 days, we realised some souvenir sellers were offering really good deals like 1+1 on fridge magnets for 2 GEL. Although I don’t recommend buying mass produced souvenirs; but I can understand if someone wants to buy, then the market in Mtskheta may turn out to be a good choice. We found the prices in Tbilisi for the same stuff are much higher.

Wine Tasting in Mtskheta

Winery Khareba located right on the opposite side of the entrance of Svetitskhoveli Cathedral. The wine tasting is free as long as you buy a bottle of wine. Prices are fixed (unlike some other places in Mtskheta) at Winery Khareba and the staff is quite helpful in suggesting which wine to buy.

Handy Tips :

Since Mtskheta is primarily a religious destination for locals, dress and behave appropriately.

Carry a water bottle. Time your visit to the washroom/toilets when you go to a restaurant. Try to visit Mtskheta on a Sunday morning while mass is being held, and savour the authentic cultural experience of polyphonic singing very unique to Georgia.

Festivals in Mtskheta

14th October Svetitskhovloba Festival.

How to Pronounce Mtskheta?

Georgian spellings and pronunciations can be mind jangling and none more so than ‘Mtskheta’. This tongue twister is actually pretty easy to pronounce. The locals seem to ignore the first two letters ‘Mt’ and rapidly say ‘skheta’ with a stress on the h. For us, it took a while getting used to since it was our first day in the country. Thankfully, we weren’t caught on the wrong foot and learnt to pronounce Mtskheta like the Georgians do before committing a faux pas!

How to go from Tbilisi to Mtskheta?

Metro to Didube station. After reaching Didube station, you have to go through a market to get to the other side to reach the exact point for the Mtskheta marshrutka / minibus and the ticket window. Buy the tickets for 2 Lari per person. Shared taxis also ply about 5 GEL per person.

From Mtskheta to Tbilisi : Marshrutka stop in Mtskheta to get back to Didube is on the main road while coming back from Samtavro’s Convent.

Staying in Mtskheta

Mtskheta has an old world charm and warrants much more than just a day visit. We have already decided we will spend a couple of nights in one of the charming homestays of Mtskheta whenever we return to Georgia.

Where to eat in Mtskheta?

There is a row of restaurants in front of the Svetitskhoveli Cathedral. We are a khachapuri and enjoyed fresh tap beer at one of those. Ornament Express was our choice but they had run out of food due to a party that day! Other recommended restaurants and cafés in Mtskheta are – Restaurant Check-in Garden, Café Tatin, Riverside Baginati, Tsiskvili. Favourite eateries of Tbilisi locals are on the way to Mtskheta after the diversion from the main road. I spotted a big crowd from the marshrutka both while coming and going. A few locals also got down on the way and while coming back our marshrutka was full but they took passengers for standing space.

Best time to Visit Mtskheta?

Mtskheta is accessible throughout the year. Summers are warm while a visit in peak winter might be a chance to see Mtskheta in snow!

Think I missed something in this Mtskheta Guide? Suggestions are welcome.

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Arriving at Tashkent Airport

Currency exchange (from USD to Uzbek Som) and sim card work is done in no time, and we sit trying to rest at the tiny airport. The idea is to either take a yandex taxi or to walk to the Tashkent Central Train Station when it is daylight. At about 4 am, a random conversation with one of the airport officials results in us heading to the waiting lounge area just outside the confines of the Tashkent airport. It is a heated area with ample seating space and a coffee shop. It is brimming with local Uzbekis holding massive flower bouquets who have come to welcome back friends and relatives.

The waiting area is an interesting place for people watching. The coffee counter has a vibrant look, and the cappuccino turns out excellent for about 23000 UZS (About USD $2). Even though it is still dark, we are bored of sitting in the waiting area and decide to step out at 6 am. We are greeted by Tashkent’s taxi guys and a frigid breeze. I am thankful to have kept a jacket at the last minute before boarding the flight in Delhi. After paying 10000 UZS (for the two of us) for using a public toilet, we feel regretful of having left the free area of the airport earlier than planned.

Morning Stroll to Stantsiya Central Tashkent Main Station

The dawn colours on the horizon invite us to start the 5 km walk to the train station and we oblige. Google maps suggests a walking route through a risky-looking train crossing; we take a longer way that crosses an early morning market and goes through residential areas. There’s a security check before entering the train station and our hungry tummies are massively delighted at seeing a small crowd at the cute café ‘Safia’ at the station. I join the queue and choose a croissant that seems to be a local favourite – for (only 9500 Uzbek soum) USD 0.75.

We reach the station earlier than planned because in popular tourist season entry to the train stations across Uzbekistan sometimes takes over 1 hour as the passports and tickets are checked; and luggage has to go through a security check.

It is so delicious that we are delighted with the prospect of returning to Safia since the Central Station in Tashkent is the main train station for our journeys in Uzbekistan. We take a coffee from one of the other cafes before showing the ticket to the security who ask us to sit in the heated waiting area. The chill in the air seems to be a direct effect of the western disturbance over the Himalayan region. There is a constant humdrum of travellers coming to catch the Afrosiyob train as is to be expected at the biggest train station in the capital of a country.

The glimmer of morning sunshine has been taken over by clouds and we take this as our cue to change into warmer clothes in the washrooms at the train station. At about 8 am, we head to the platform where the Sharq train to Samarkand and Bukhara is already stationed. It is quite cold in the open air, and we are joyful and relieved upon entering the cosy heated train.

Sharq Train from Tashkent to Samarkand

It is a chair car train with luxurious seating, charging points and ample space to store the luggage. The Uzbekistan Railways website allows you to choose the seats and ours came with a table! There is a boiling water container (samovar) at the entry of the coach and a round of lavender tea is duly made. No sooner do we sit down to enjoy the delicate taste and aroma of the flower tea; it begins to snow! We can barely believe our eyes. At first. the snow comes down gently. Then, the intensity increases, and the white flurries start coming down in droves.

Cold weather seems to be following us all along and we are beyond thrilled to see snow falling in the middle of March when it is supposed to be spring in Uzbekistan and time for the plum, peach, apple, apricot and other blossoms to bloom. The train does not start on time and the fellow passengers don’t seem to be bothered. After all, it is warm and cozy in the train coach! When it finally starts, we are treated to a visual delight of a white landscape in the outskirts of Tashkent.

Train stations (Vokzal) by the name of Jizzakh and Gulistan come, and I rush to the window to click photographs – of Christmas-like scenes and the name Gulistan. Gul is the Uzbek word for flowers – similar to India. It is to be just the start of cultural similarities between Uzbekistan and India. The Sharq train is supposed to reach Samarkand at 1230 pm but since it is delayed, we only pull into Samarkand Vokzal at 130 pm. The snowstorm continues and we freeze after getting out of the platform and making our way to the exit.

Arriving in Samarkand and our first Yandex Taxi

We want to get to a street before calling a Yandex taxi and manage to make a booking. The place where we stand outside the Samarkand train station is a little confusing since it is on an intersection of many streets, and we receive a phone call from the taxi guy. I am sure language troubles will render communication useless, so I thrust the phone with a request in the hands of a local family who are eager to help. We converse in perfect English and thank them profusely once the yandex taxi arrives! It is with a relieved feeling that we sit in the heated taxi, still comprehending the sudden snowfall and chilly weather in Uzbekistan in spring.

We reach our pre-booked accommodation in hardly 15 minutes from the Samarkand train station and are pleased with the success on booking our first yandex taxi in Uzbekistan. The family-run hotel is ready to receive us and quickly usher us into our heated room after the check-in process. It is a four bedded room and heating radiators have been installed in the bathroom and the room. There is ample space to keep our bags and since we have carried a small kettle with us, we make some Darjeeling autumn flush green tea to relax. We are extremely hungry and contemplate our next course of action even as the snowstorm rages on in Samarkand.

History and a bit about Samarkand

Samarkand, located on the edge of the Kyzylkum Desert is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities of the world. It has a recorded history that goes all the way back to the 7th Century BC. Samarkand was an important stop on the Silk Road (Silk Route) connecting Asia to Europe, and it prospered from the trade passing through the region. However, it was in the 14th Century during Amir Timur’s rule that Samarkand reached its pinnacle when it was made the capital (year 1370) of his vast empire. Timur had a great interest in architecture, culture and art. He patronized craftsmen and architects that led to the development of a unique architectural style known as Timurid architecture.

Samarkand’s decline was swift beginning from the year 1500 AD when the capital was shifted to Bukhara in early 16th Century, then numerous earthquakes played their part in the damage. Its fortunes reversed only when the Russians transformed Samarkand into a modern city, built a railway line and restored some of the heritage monuments. Samarkand was also the capital of the Uzbek Soviet Socialist Republic from 1925 to 1930 before being replaced by Tashkent. Samarkand was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in the year 2001.

Samarkand is the second biggest city in Uzbekistan and an important commercial and cultural centre. It boasts of an illustrious history; Samarkand was coveted and conquered by Alexander the Great, pillaged and destroyed by Genghis Khan, rebuilt to glory by Amir Timur.

I asked our hostess for a eatery recommendation, and with language communication issues could only understand that there is a small eatery nearby. When we go out trying to find the small eatery, there is no success, and it seems logical to walk to the street where we came from and try and find a restaurant there. Thankfully, the snowstorm has taken a breather, and we are sitting in the cozy interiors of one Shahjahon Milliy Taomlar. The food turns out to be excellent and we enjoy our first taster of Uzbek non (nan) and green tea. As soon as we step out of the restaurant, it begins snowing again and we are totally unprepared for this burst of cold air.

First sight of Registan Square

Our brains are not functioning properly, and we walk in an incomprehensible manner only to start walking back in the direction of our stay. We change the plan once we understand that a number of historical monuments of Samarkand are located quite close to where we are! It is hardly a walk of 10 odd minutes, and we are at the viewing deck of the Registan Square. White snow has covered the blooming spring flowers surrounding the Registan Square. Among the iconic places to photograph in Samarkand, Registan Square is top of the list.

The gloomy sky and the snowfall combine to make it a colourless evening and I am unable to feel the grandeur of the Registan Square of Samarkand. We choose to enter one of the art galleries nearby and I like the paintings and a particular copper water container. As expected, I am quoted a best price of some USD $1000 in the hope that I will indulge in the bargaining game, but I am just testing the waters and wise enough to know when to open my mouth!

We are hoping to explore and admire Samarkand’s dazzling mosques, azure blue-tiled madrasahs, majestic domes and minarets, bazaars withhandcrafted treasures and are really hoping the weather gods will behave and let us explore Samarkand in nice, sunny weather.

Amir Timur; Uzbekistan and India

For us, being in Uzbekistan is like going back to the history books. Amir Timur is proclaimed a national hero in Uzbekistan whereas our classroom textbooks mentioned Timur as a barbarian. His brutal massacre of Delhi in the year 1398 is the stuff of legends. Uzbekistan is also associated with the beginning of India’s Mughal history – Babur, who established the Mughal empire in undivided India is the great-great-great grandson of Amir Timur. How very interesting!

Guest House in Samarkand

We feel accomplished after the walk on this supremely chilly spring day and ultimately decide to go back to our cosy stay. It is interesting to observe local life as we walk through the non-touristy lanes. We are hoping that tomorrow the sun will be out so that we will be able to have a nice Samarkand experience, since our Afrosiyob train from Samarkand to Bukhara has already been booked for about 11 am, the day after. The hosts at the guest house are really kind and offer us green tea whenever they see us! We fill enough filter water from the dispenser and retire to our warm room for the night.

It is a nice feeling to relax while the weather is frighteningly cold outside. We also wonder why we don’t have this heating system in the cold regions of India. It would be great to have this central heating system at our home in Kullu Valley. After a hot shower, we dive into the cosy bed. It is prudent to do a bit of route mapping of Samarkand’s monuments and our supposed plan of action for tomorrow. The weather forecast is for an absolutely clear day and relishing the prospect of sunshine, we call it a night and are fast asleep by 8 pm!

First Breakfast in Uzbekistan – Yummy

It is a deep sleep and we wake up super fresh. We decide to take the day as it comes rather than trying to rush early. I open the door and am thankful to see blue skies and a sliver of sunshine across the sky. The clock shows 730 am and we are having a slow morning to get us ready for a proper exploration of Samarkand. The hostess has laid out a plethora of delicacies and we are really looking forward to a nice breakfast to set us up for a long day of walking and sights. We are down in the heated family room at 8 am and are excited to taste the delicious local cheese, fresh cucumbers and tomatoes, home-made pastry, pancakes, local honey, dry fruits, jams and so many other options. We wash down the yummy eats with repeated helpings of green tea, thank the family for the excellent breakfast and set out to explore Samarkand.

First up; we had spotted a dazzling blue dome on our way back last evening and upon researching realise it is a famous landmark. Unknowingly, it is our first glimpse of Samarkand’s spectacular blue tilework in the mellow evening light.

Attractions of Samarkand

Gur e Amir or Amir Timur Mausoleum

Rather than trusting our limited geography of Samarkand based on our previous day’s wanderings, we choose to use google maps to walk to the Gur e Amir Mausoleum. We go round and round in circles and have to finally ask some locals and are guided to the right place. The sun is out and Samarkand feels much better with blue skies. The blue dome comes closer and we are right in front of the Amir Timur Mausoleum. The richly carved entrance painted in (guess what!) deep shade of blue is dazzling and we make a mental note to return here in the evening when the sun will light it up.

Gur-e-Amir or Amir Timur Mausoleum is the final resting place of Amir Timur. It is set in beautiful green surroundings and feels like a different part of Samarkand since it is away from the other monuments. This building was originally built to be an Islamic school but a big stroke of luck made . I spot a ‘kassa’ ticket office sign to my left. I check the entry ticket price and it is almost USD $4 per person (UZS 50000). We decide to defer the purchasing of the ticket and walk around the permitted free area with the security guards in tow.

Amir Timur was supposed to be buried at Shakhrisabz (where he was born in 1336 AD) but he unexpectedly died of pneumonia while on war in China. Since snow had closed the passes to Shakhrisabz, he was buried in Samarkand instead. The Gur e Amir or Amir Timur Mausoleum also houses the graves of Timur’s two sons and two grandsons (including Ulugh Beg). We figure that evening is the best time to be here as the blue tiles of the mausoleum are lit in a soft orange hue with the setting sun. Then, as darkness sets in, the lights take effect making the Amir Timur Mausoleum look even more ethereal. We ambled here in the night again and were spellbound by the effect!

It is surreal to see the snow still clinging on the branches of trees (from yesterday’s snowstorm) and we walk around the narrow lanes around the blue domed mausoleum. The sunshine on the other side of Gur e Amir complex feels better and our surprise moment comes when we are on the opposite side of the monument and the door is open. I am happy to click a few pictures from my dslr camera and a bit surprised to see a handicraft shop in the frame. There are two local ladies and a caretaker from the nearby Ak-Saray Mosque soaking in the sunshine. We have limited conversations in broken english and the caretaker is interested in giving us a tour for the Ak-Saray Mosque’s ceiling for 10000 Uzbek soums each.

Aksaray Mausoleum

Located very close to the opposite side of the Amir Timur Mausoleum, we only come to know of its existence because of the gatekeeper who was chatting with the two ladies. Aksaray Mausoleum is an unassuming structure from the outside but apparently the painted ceiling inside is a must see. Amir Timur’s grandsons are buried at the Aksaray Mausoleum. The gatekeeper is offering us a tour of the inside along-with the famed ceiling for a price of UZS 10000 Uzbek Soum (USD 0.75) each. We first opt to walk around the Aksaray Mausoleum to see the Amir Timur Mausoleum with the blue skies. When we come back to the entrance, the door is open, and the gatekeeper is taking money from some Russian speaking tourists. It is a chance viewing of the blue and gold ceiling which looks stunning but also quite shiny making me wonder if it has been freshly painted!

Rukhobod Mosque or Rukhabad Mausoleum

We wander back to the Gur-e-Amir Mausoleum and start walking through the green park in front of it to spot the painted ceilings of a nearby mosque. Since it is the month of Ramzan, prayers are going on and we are pleased to gaze at the exquisitely painted wooden ceiling. It is the month of Ramadan and prayers are currently being held.

Rukhobod Mausoleum and Handicraft Center

Adjacent to the Ruhabad Mosque or the Rukhobod Mosque, there is a signboard for another monument. Since, we have no plan set in stone, we enter inside the compound and see that this is an artisan centre with about 15-20 of nice-looking shops set in the courtyard. It is one of the oldest mausoleums in Samarkand and made from bricks (in the year 1380) and was renovated recently.

It is bitterly cold after yesterday’s snowfall and half the shops are still closed at the relatively early hour of 930 am. The prices for the usual Uzbek souvenirs quoted at the shops here are quite reasonable and if Samarkand was not our first city, we might have ended up buying a number of souvenirs! We buy a cute handmade doll set for UZS INR 20000 (USD 1.6). On display and sale are miniature paintings, suzani embroidery table runners and bedcovers, embroidered jackets and Uzbek-style adras or ikat jackets.

Registan Square

Samarkand’s or even Uzbekistan’s claim to fame, the majestic Registan square is a collection of three monuments. From the viewing deck, the monuments are perfectly placed on the left, center and right so that you can gaze and gawk at the majestic sight in front of you! Even though we had stood at the viewing deck on the previous day and found Registan Square underwhelming; the blue skies and shining sun today combine to create sheer grandeur of this UNESCO World Heritage Site. There are still bits of snow that have not melted yet, and it is nice to see the bright colours of the blooming spring flowers to warm the heart. Entry tickets to Registan Square are available from a kiosk and cost UZS 80000 (Uzbek Soum) about USD $7.5.

History & Heritage of Registan Square

Registan Square is a history and architecture lover’s delight. It comprises of three monuments, here is the order as seen from the viewing deck – Ulugh Beg Madrassah on the left, the majestic Tilya Kori Madrassah in the centre and the Sher Dor Madrassah to the right. According to historical records, Registan Square was an important center of trade in the 15th-16th Century. The complex consisted of several mosques used for prayers and learning, caravanserais, bazaars, a khanqah (inn for Sufis). The small rooms surrounding the courtyard of all the three madrassahs in Registan Square which earlier served as learning cells now function as souvenir shops. The Registan entry ticket is valid for the entire day, so it’s recommended to take the tickets back when you present it to the guards so that you can visit Registan in the evening same day without paying again for the same.

The ground floor rooms were initially classrooms and the upper floor was used as sleeping quarters for the students. Now these cells are creatively used by souvenir shops selling intricate suzanis, ikat, pottery, jackets, scarves and other Uzbek handicrafts. Registan Square (and other monuments of Samarkand) was damaged by earthquakes numerous times and the monuments have been heavily restored, like many other monuments across Samarkand. Tickets for Registan Square include entrance to the three madrassahs. An almost unknown fact is that Registan Square has a gory past attached to it as it was also used for public executions at one point of time.

Ulugh Beg Madrassah (15th Century) – It is the oldest of the three madrassahs of the Registan Square; originally built very swiftly in a short period of three years (1417-1420) AD by Ulugh Beg, grandson of Amir Timur. Ulugh Beg was a mathematician and an astronomer and that is evident in the depiction of the sky and stars embellished on the entrance-arch tile work of the monument. In the courtyard, there are approximately 50 cells, where about 200 students were taught astronomy and mathematics. It is possible to climb to the second floor of the madrassah for a nice bird’s eye view of the Registan Square.

Tilya Kori Madrassa also (Tilla Kari Madrassah) (17th Century)- The golden ceiling of the Tilya Kori Madrassah is special and a hallmark of this monument. Shaybanid Emir Yalangtush built this mosque that is adorned with gold leaf. It served as a caravanserai for travellers and was the last of the three monuments built on the Registan Square. Tilya Kori literally means gold covered and this refers to the spectacular golden ceiling! An interesting trivia about this monument is that while the elaborate gilded ceiling in the Tilya Kori Mosque’s central chamber looks like a hollow dome, it is in fact flat and is merely an optical illusion. Photos of the Registan square before renovation are on display in one of the exhibits in the Tilya Kori Madrassa.

Sher Dor Madrassah (17th Century) – Located on the right of Tilya Kori Madrassa, the Sher Dor madrassa could be said to be less popular among the photo-ops. Its chief differentiator is the mosaic tile work that shows the sun, a tiger and deers on both sides of the entrance arch. While Islam prohibits the depiction of living beings, a Zoroastrian past is visible on the façade of the Sher Dor Madrassah where the animals are depicted.

Entrance Fee & Timings : 80000 Uzbek Soum (USD 6.5), open from 7 am till late night.

Best time to visit Registan Square : Early morning before the tour groups arrive and sunset time.

Tip : Emirhan Restaurant has a fabulous view of the Registan Square!

Night Lights at Registan Square – Registan Sound and Light Show

We return to Registan Square in the evening and are welcomed with an ethereal evening light casting an orange hue on the monuments. The golden façade of the Tilya Kori Madrassah looks even more mesmerising during sunset time. The wind is ferociously cold and we are caught unawares. We want to enjoy wandering around the monuments of Samarkand in the lights and therefore decide to quickly head back to our guest house; wear another layer and come back to the Registan Square.

We take a shortcut and are back in less than 20 minutes. Of course, a few minutes of the sunset are missed, but it made more sense to be ready for the cold since it has snowed only the day before and the temperature is close to negative. When we come back, it is a surreal sight with the majestic Registan Square lit up in perfect yellow-orange lights. At about 7 pm, the Light and Sound show started and the monuments of Registan Square are getting lit up in myriad colours. The evening lights and Light and Sound show is best watched from the viewing deck or from the steps where you can relax as well!

Entry : UZS 60000, or simply watch it for free from the steps or the viewing deck!

Heritage Walk in Samarkand

Starting from the Registan Square in Samarkand, this self-styled heritage walk is via a cobblestone path that connects the major historical and must-see monuments in Samarkand. We take a right at the end of the Islam Karimov statue park and continue on the pedestrian walking area. There are souvenir shops and a few restaurants, chaikhanas, milliy taomlar (Uzbek national foods) eateries lining both the sides. I highly recommend exploring the heritage attractions of Samarkand by walk as it gives a more authentic feel. The heritage walk is quite convenient as it starts on the Islam Karimov street and continues to the Shah I Zinda necropolis.

As we start the walk, we come across a conveniently located cafe serving ice-creams, cold drinks, snacks and other basic stuff. It is perhaps in preparation for the summer when it is the most popular season for tourists to visit Samarkand and the weather starts becoming hotter. The souvenir shops on the left and the right look the same with the usual suzani, machine made ikat, pottery knick-knacks, jackets, bags and the likes. We spot a few interesting eateries and enter one of them; the setting is impeccable with a topchan (Uzbek style sitting) bed flanked by a tree resulting in dappled sunlight.

Craftsmen’s Centre on Islam Karimov Street

While on the heritage walk on the cobblestone path, we see a signboard for Craftsmen’s Centre. Always keen on handmade arts and crafts, we immediately head to the spacious building. The courtyard is beautiful with plants and trees and is surrounded by artisan shops. The potter crafting delicate blue pieces has a lovely collection, and the metal artisan chiseling plates is engrossed in work. Some of the shops are closed, but we are pleased to browse the excellent collection at Art Gallery Happy Bird. The leather workshop guy has excellent stuff as well but is a tad too expensive.

Bibi Khanym Mosque or Bibi Khanum Mosque

As you keep walking on the heritage trail for 5-7 minutes from the Craftsmen’s Centre, you come cross the Bibikhanum Teahouse on your left and reach the mosque which is another 2 minute walk. The first impression as you walk towards the Bibi Khanym Mosque is massive. At 41 metres, it was one of the highest and biggest mosques in the world when it was built in the 15th Century. This mosque was largely financed by Timur’s spoils resulting from the invasion of India. Historical records state that a huge number of slaves and about 100 elephants were brought from India for its construction. The size of the Bibi Khanym mosque is so massive that it had started crumbling even before the construction was entirely finished! We are finally able to capture the huge mosque in one frame from the opposite Bibi Khanym Mausoleum.

The architecture style of Bibi Khanym Mosque is said to have been inspired from Iran with four towering minarets and a massive dome. The interior is filled with intricate tile-work like the other historical monuments of Samarkand. This mosque was heavily damaged in an earthquake in 1897 which caused significant destruction across Samarkand. In 1970, work began on restoring it almost entirely from scratch with speedy culmination after Uzbekistan’s independence in 1991. Bibi Khanum, who ordered the mosque to be built was Amir Timur’s Chinese wife. She was a Chagatai princess by the name of Saray Mulk Khanum and was a direct descendent of Genghis Khan.

Entry fee: 50000 UZS (4 USD)

Bibi Khanym Mausoleum

Lying opposite to the Bibi Khanym Mosque, the mausoleum is the place where Bibi Khanym (Amir Timur’s wife) was buried. It is a simple looking small building compared to the other monuments in Samarkand. The lady at the entrance asked us for UZS 10000 per person entry which we promptly refused since it is not a ticketed monument. Later, I saw some foreigners pay UZS 25000 per person for entering! It is best to see the Bibi Khanym Mausoleum from the outside and be away from the touristy trail for a few quiet moments from the bustle of Bibi Khanym mosque.

Siyob Bazar (Siyob Bozor)

Siyob bazaar lies at a stone’s throw from Bibi Khanym Mosque on the Samarkand Heritage Walking Trail. It is Samarkand’s largest and oldest bazaar; with a history spanning about 2000 years! As you enter, you can spot the ladies to your left selling fresh dairy produce like paneer, cheese, kurt and varieties of halva. An entire section of the market is filled with dry-fruit sellers, vegetable sellers, fruit sellers, and spice sellers as well. The covered section has a couple of souvenir shops that try to sell average quality overpriced stuff, so better to steer clear of them! In comparison, the smaller shops lining the periphery of the bazaar have varied collections and might be a better place to bargain for some unique Samarkand and Uzbek souvenirs.

The pistachio halva (that tastes like a sweet nougat) is a popular takeaway from Samarkand; we tasted it at Sharq Halva the previous day and did not like it at all! So be wary of touristy gimmicks and try a taster before buying. Seasonal fruits and vegetables are a good buy at the Siyob Bazaar; I highly recommend trying the apples as Uzbekistan grows a large variety of tasty apples priced at about UZS 12500 (USD 1) per kilo.. Among other offerings are dry fruits, nuts, baked non (Samarkand non breads are special), handicrafts, caps, tubeteikas, glazed pottery plates and lots more. Depending on the season, watermelons and muskmelons in summer and grapes in autumn.

We are a bit tired with the walks and exploration and opt to sit at one of the truly local eateries in Siyob Bozor. Sunshine is streaming in, and the seating is Uzbek style tapchan. The eatery is crowded with locals, and we are glad to experience a restaurant/cafe in true Uzbekistan or Central Asian style. A pot of green tea and freshly baked non costs about UZS 10000 (USD 0.75). I nibble on an apple that we had just bought from one of the sellers at Siyob Bozor. Also, the best part about Siyob Bazaar is that entry is free! (Take that as a pun, as with ticketed entry everywhere – nothing or nowhere is free in Samarkand!)

Hazrat Khizr Mosque

Rejuvenated after a break, we continue our stroll and come to an intersection. Spring flowers are blooming in a range of glorious colours on the pavement. On the left is a majestic looking mosque on an uphill climb while the straight path would lead to the ruins of ancient settlement Afrasiab. There are people standing in the richly painted wooden balcony. As we climb the stairs, the snow-clad mountains are visible in the far distance. The sky is absolutely clear after the snowstorm of the previous day. We are excited at the prospect of a bird’s eye view of Samarkand from the vantage point of the Hazrat Khizr Mosque. Bibi Khanym Mosque’s real splendour is visible from one of the balconies and on the other side are partial views of Shah-I-Zinda necropolis and one can also spot the ruins of Afrasiab in the far distance flanked by the snow mountains.

The mosque looks recently renovated and has an interesting mix of blue tiles and intricate geometric patterns combining to create an inviting and unique architectural style. The open courtyard of the mosque is spacious, and is dotted with several smaller enclosures. We rush to the balcony and are in awe of the stunning painted wooden ceiling. The ancient and modern blend of Samarkand is beautifully juxtaposed with the three-hundred-degree view of the snowy mountain ranges. As we walk in the central courtyard, a friendly Uzbek family played a bollywood song and we have a little dance with them before clicking pictures!

Entry to Hazrat Khizr is free!

History of Hazrat Khizr Mosque

Hazrat Khizr mosque is one of the oldest buildings in Samarkand and was originally built in the 8th century. It is named after the Sufi saint Hazrat Khizr. The mosque built in the 8th Century was destroyed and burnt to the ground by Genghis Khan in his attack of 13th century. It was partially rebuilt in 1854 and was recently restored in the 1990s.

Islam Karimov Mausoleum

In the open courtyard of the Hazrat Khizr Mosque, there is a gleaming mausoleum of Uzbekistan’s first president Islam Karimov, who died in 2016. The mausoleum was built in 2018 but totally blends in with the architectural style as the other parts of the Hazrat Khizr mosque. Entry fee inside the tomb is UZS 20000.

Shah I Zinda or Shakhi Zinda

Shah-I-Zinda necropolis is a collection of ornate mausoleums built from the 11th to 19th Century. It is an art lover’s dream come true with some of the most exquisite blue tilework in entire Central Asia and each mausoleum looking more elaborate (and bluer) than the others! Some of the mausoleums are for important members of the royal family from the Timurid era while the most stunning architecture dates from the 14th and 15th century. Shah I Zinda literally translates to ‘tomb of the living king’ which refers to the grave of Qusam-ibn-Abbas (cousin of Prophet Mohammed), who is said to have brought Islam to Samarkand in the 7th Century.

Among the most impressive sights in the Shah I Zinda necropolis complex are the Shodi Mulk Oko Mausoleum, Shirin Beka Oka mausoleum, Ali Nesefi mausoleum and Amirzadeh mausoleum. Remember to dress conservatively covering your shoulders and knees as this is a sacred site.

Note: Even though Shah I Zinda complex’s tombs survived more than seven centuries with only minor upkeep, recently almost all the tombs were controversially restored in 2005. Hence a word of caution, if you think everything is old; then the answer is no. In simple words, much of the mind-blowing mosaic and terracotta work you see today is not original and has been highly restored.

Afrasiyab Settlement Ruins

The Afrasiyab Settlement in Samarkand, Uzbekistan is an important historical site that dates to the pre-Islamic period. It is believed to be the ancient city of Marakanda, founded in the 7th century BC by the Sogdians, a Central Asian civilization. Samarkand was a prosperous city on the hill until it was destroyed by the Mongol invasion in the 13th Century. Afrasiyab ruins are reached by a walk – we continue on the same heritage walking trail past the Hazrat Khizr mosque. The distance is about 1.5 kms and it is a pleasant walk that should take about 20 minutes.

Afrasiyab Museum

Adjacent to Afrasiyab settlement ruins, the Afrasiyab museum should be visited first to get a real sense of the ruins. Among the ancient things on display is a damaged 7th-century fresco of a Zoroastrian Nowruz celebration. The Afrasiyab museum is dedicated to the history of Samarkand and the surrounding region. The museum also showcases a number of treasured artefacts like murals, ceramics and textiles from the Sogdian period, that offer insights into the life and culture of the people who lived during that time.

Entry : 40000 UZS

Observatory of Ulugbek

Constructed in 1429 by Ulugbek, this was the first astronomical observatory in Central Asia before it was destroyed in 1445 by religious fanatics. Ulugbek was a keen astronomer and was able to calculate the length of a star year to a one-minute difference to our current calculations, almost 600 years ago! There is a museum in the same complex right next to the observatory, where visitors can learn more about the observatory and see the remnants of the instruments from the 15th Century.

Ulugbek’s Observatory is a bit far (about 6 kms) from the other attractions of Samarkand and it is best to take a Yandex taxi to go there.

Entry : 40000 UZS (About 3.2 USD)

Offbeat Samarkand

If you are staying in Samarkand for more than 2-3 days in the high season and are bored of seeing the monuments with the tourist hordes; here’s your chance to find some solace at some of these offbeat sights in Samarkand.

Gumbaz Synagogue

About 10 minutes walk from Shah I Zinda, tucked in a by-lane lies Gumbaz Synagogue that was built in 1891 for Samarkand’s Jewish community. The inner domed hall of the synagogue has a beautiful ceiling. In the present day, hardly 50 Jews remain in Samarkand and there are no fixed days for the minyan ceremony. Caretaker may ask for UZS 50000 per person in the name of donation!

Islam Karimov Statue

In the morning when we were roaming in the periphery of the Registan Square, I notice a colourful sight in a nearby green space and we decide to go there later. Hiding in plain sight, this bronze statue is a tribute to the late first president of Uzbekistan, who ruled for 25 years. The lush garden is popular with local Samarkand folks for wedding photography of newlyweds! The Islam Karimov statue is in the middle of the park. Come in the evenings to observe the kids take joy rides on the tricycles. A variety of popcorn is available for sale on the mobile carts.

Cemetery or Kabristan

Hardly one minute distance from the Hazrat Khizr mosque lies Samarkand’s main cemetery. It is a fascinating place to walk with interesting epitaphs and relative quiet from the other surrounding chaotic and popular monuments of Samarkand. The cemetery has novel views of Shah I Zinda and the Afrosiyab ruins can be seen in the far distance, flanked by snowy mountains in the far distance.

Museum of Regional Studies, Samarkand

Located a stone’s throw away from the Central Park, the Museum of Regional Studies in Samarkand is devoted to Uzbek Jewish history. The museum is located in an old Jewish merchant’s house, and old photos of Samarkand’s sizeable population of Bukhara and European Jews are on display.

Entrance : 25000 UZS, extra for photography

Jewish Cemetery

We were pleasantly surprised at coming across the doors of the Jewish Cemetery in Samarkand with an ornamental gateway engraved with the star of David. The cemetery is well maintained and is hardly 5 minutes’ walk from Shah I Zinda, along the Islam Karimov street. Based on my visit, there is no entry fee.

Samarkand Bukhara Silk Carpets Factory

One of the highlights of our explorations in Samarkand was stumbling upon the riches of Samarkand Bukhara Silk Carpets Factory! I can count myself lucky to see the highest quality of artisanship creating and showcasing priceless handmade carpets. We were given a proper tour of the weaving process, details about using natural dyes and also shown the different varieties of kilims, rugs, silk rugs, sozani, jackets and many more handicrafts! There was no pressure to buy and that is a refreshing change as tourist hotspots invariably try to exhort money from you.

Even if you are not planning to buy a kilim or carpet or do any shopping whatsoever, I highly recommend visiting this place to observe the process of high quality carpet weaving. The Samarkand Bukhara Silk Carpets factory is a 10 minute walk from the Jewish Cemetery.

Central Park in Samarkand

If you are bored of visiting Samarkand’s popular attractions with busloads of tourists and want to just get away from the action and spend some time like the locals do, then Central Park is a good place. It is a lovely green space with plenty of flowers in spring and is a hotspot for children who come to enjoy bike rides in the evening. A nice park for a relaxed walk and get rejuvenated to get back to Samarkand’s main attractions!

Wine Tasting in Samarkand at Khovrenko Wine Factory

Visiting the Khovrenko wine factory is an interesting insight in the world of Uzbek wine. The Khovrenko winery has been making wines since 1868. The in-house Samarkand Museum of winemaking has some interesting photos of Soviet wine production in the 1930s. The wine tasting is priced at UZS 100000 to UZS 200000 and includes 3 white wines, 4 red wines, 2 Uzbek cognacs and 1 aperitif.

Statue of Amir Timur

A chance find, I spotted this statue in the middle of a green park while heading back to the Samarkand train station. This majestic statue of Timur seated on a throne is located very close to the Amir Timur mausoleum and is the start of Samarkand’s modern part built by the Russians in the 20th Century.

Day Trips from Samarkand

Meros Paper Making Factory in Konigil, Samarkand

Located about 10 kms from Samarkand in Konigil village, Meros paper making factory is home to a team of skilled craftsmen employing traditional methods to create handmade paper. Visitors can watch the one hour workshop process (UZS 15000) from start to finish to learn about the traditional technique of making paper. The souvenir shop has interesting accessories for sale created from handmade paper. Konigil village is a nice place to visit if you are staying in Samarkand for more than 3 days. There’s also a pottery making workshop nearbuy in Konigil.

Entry : 15000 UZS

Among other offbeat sights and attractions in Samarkand, the 9th Century mausoleum of Imam al-Bukhari located about 25 kms from Samarkand, State Museum of History of Culture, Urgut town’s bazaar and Chor-Chinor garden about 40 kms from Samarkand.

Day Trips from Samarkand

Shakhrisabz, the birthplace of Amir Timur (a village nearby) is a UNESCO heritage site with many notable attractions like Aksaray Palace, Tomb of Amir Timur (he was buried instead in Samarkand), Kok Gumbaz mosque, Amir Timur museum and other historic attractions. Shakhrisabz (also called Shahrisabz) is about 90 kms from Samarkand and can be reached by a shared taxi (called marshrutka).

Practical Tips for Visiting Samarkand

Best Weather to visit Samarkand?

Weather wise, mid-March to May and mid-September to October is the best time to visit Samarkand when the temperature ranges between 32 degrees maximum to 8 degrees minimum. It is the most popular time for tourists and expect crowds everywhere you go. June, July and August are the hottest months when the temperature in Samarkand hits over 36 degrees and sometimes reaches 42 degrees. Spend the afternoons cooling down if you choose to go during the summer season.

December and January are the coldest months in Samarkand with night temperatures plummeting to -15 degrees. If you are used to the cold, it could be a great time to see the monuments in white snow. You will encounter almost zero tourists and have the sights of Samarkand to yourself. The months of November and February are cold but bearable and can serve as the perfect shoulder season for visiting Samarkand. Indoors across Uzbekistan are centrally heated, so no problem for the chilly nights if you want to visit when there are lesser tourists. Pack heavy winter jackets, caps, socks and thermals if you choose to travel in the cold weather as the dry Central Asian cold can be pretty rough!

Accommodation in Samarkand?

There are a number of homestays, hotels, hostels, guest houses to stay close to the main sights in Samarkand. Price options for backpackers, budget stays, luxury accommodation are plentiful. We had booked a family run guest house which turned out to be excellent. It is best to book in advance in high season.

How to reach Samarkand?

Samarkand has an international airport and is very well connected by road and railway.

From Tashkent by train – Multiple train options like Afrosiyob and Sharq from Tashkent to Samarkand throughout the day. Recommended to book in advance. Book from the official Uzbek Railways website.

From Bukhara by train – Multiple train options like Afrosiyob and Sharq from Bukhara to Samarkand throughout the day. It is best to book in advance directly from the Uzbek Railways website.

Where to eat in Samarkand?

Some of the best eateries in Samarkand are not on the touristy trail. Milliy Taomlar eateries serve traditional dishes in a relaxed seating. Restaurants and cafés located close to the attractions are a hit and miss and its best to check the latest reviews before deciding on a place.

Even though I have tried to cover everything that came to mind, I am welcome to suggestions to make additions to this travel guide to Samarkand.

In a way it felt like Samarkand had saved its best for the last. As the modern Afrosiyab train rolled onto the platform, deep-throated, guttural cries of ‘Samarkand non, Samarkand non’ rang in my ears. There was a bit of Silk Road still left in Samarkand. Perhaps I will return someday (in better weather?) to let the city change my opinion.

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Read : The Goodness of Strangers in Kerala

Anecdotes, photographs and a travel guide to Kochi :

Introduction and History of Fort Kochi or Fort Cochin

Most travellers choose Kochi as the first stop to the popular tourist state of Kerala; with convenient flight connections from all big cities in India. Fort Kochi (or Cochin) has the proud distinction of being the oldest and first European settlement in India, and retains a charming and bucolic feel. This ancient town’s complex history is reflected in a medley of distinct Indo-European architectural styles. Fort Kochi boasts of a classic mixture with Portuguese, Dutch, British and traditional Kerala houses adorning the streets of Malabar’s crown jewel. It was a massive surprise for me to come across Gujarati signboards advertising mithai walas in Mattancherry!

In the present day, Kochi (or Cochin, as it was known earlier) comprises of the following areas : Mattancherry, Fort Kochi and the commercial hub of the city; Ernakulam.

Among the plethora of sights and experiences in Kochi include 

• Mattancherry’s warehouses filled with Kerala’s much priceless spices like pepper; jostling with new age street art.
• The timeless Jew Town, with the oldest Synagogue in the Commonwealth and antique shops selling secret finds. 
• Fort Kochi for a Kathakali performance, choose your fresh seafood with a sunset cruise and feel good about life! 

History of Kochi or Cochin

The Portuguese came looking for pepper and arrived in Kochi in the year 1500 AD. They constructed Fort Immanuel (that signifies the fort in Fort Kochi) and St. Francis’ church; and transformed Kochi from a tiny fishing hamlet to a bustling town. The Dutch then took over and ruled Fort Kochi for more than 100 years, from 1663 until 1795. The British took over from the Dutch and only left with India’s Independence in 1947.

An intriguing fact is that Fort Kochi was a multi-ethnic society even before the Europeans arrived. According to legend – St. Thomas, The Apostle arrived in Kochi in 52 AD and gave Kochi its first Syrian Orthodox Christians. The Jews arrived in 70 AD, as a result of the First Jewish – Roman War’s siege of Jerusalem. 

Kochi was formed with a stroke of luck in 1341 AD – A flood created a safe natural port in Fort Kochi that was seen as an alternative to Muziris – which was the main harbour on the Malabar Coast. The royal family moved to Kochi from Muziris in 1405 firmly establishing it on the map.

Must Visit Sights & Experiences in Kochi 

Chinese Fishing Nets 

The Chinese fishing nets were introduced to Kochi by traders from the court of Kublai Khan, sometime between the 14th & 15th century. These humongous nets are set up on bamboo poles and require four men to control them. They remain a grand reminder of Kochi’s historic trade ties with the far East. The best time to watch them in action is from close to the Vasco da Gama Square in Fort Kochi at sunset time. Strolling around the Chinese fishing nets is free but if you want to see the fishermen in action, a tip is appreciated and they will explain the functioning.

Mattancherry Palace

Despite being built by the Portuguese in the 16th Century; Mattancherry Palace is more commonly known as the Dutch Palace. The Portuguese gifted it to the Raja of Kochi as a token of thanks for the trading rights granted to them. When the Dutch took over Fort Kochi in the year 1663, they remodelled the Mattancherry Palace in an extensive manner and the name ‘Dutch Palace’ has stuck since then. 

It looks unassuming from the outside but hides a wealth of riches in its two storey interiors! The vivid murals in some of the rooms are excellent examples of Kerala’s hardly known school of painting. The prized collection includes coronation robes of past Rajas, palanquins, Dutch maps of Old Cochin and royal family portraits, among other things.

Paradesi Synagogue in Jew Town

Although Kochi’s first Jewish settlers arrived in 52 AD; the Paradesi Synagogue was built more than 1,500 years later. Nondescript from the outside, one might entirely miss the Synagogue in the jumble of buildings in Jew Town! Paradesi Synagogue is the oldest active Synagogue in the Commonwealth and the Jewish community of Cochin has the distinction of being among the oldest Jewish communities in the world. (Paradesi = foreigner)

Visitors are only allowed to click photographs of the 18th century clock tower in the outdoors. Indoor photography is strictly not allowed and that means we must gaze longer at the incredibly beautiful blue and white ceramic floor tiles. These Cantonese tiles are very unique as every tile is hand-painted, all 1100 of them! Also notice the immaculate Belgian chandelier hanging from the ceiling. Old Torah scrolls with crowns presented by the Maharajas of Travancore and Cochin are also kept in the Paradesi Synagogue.

Only a handful of Jews remain in Kochi (around five-six), as most of them migrated to Israel in the 1940s. Prayer ceremonies are held at the Paradesi Synagogue when the minyan (minimum number of 10 men required for traditional Jewish public worship) is met.

St. Francis Church 

Originally built by the Portuguese in the early 16th Century, St. Francis Church is India’s oldest European church. Vasco da Gama was buried here when he died in Kochi; although his body was later moved to Lisbon in 1538 AD.

St. Francis Church, Kochi & India’s Colonial History

Santa Cruz Basilica 

The stunningly beautiful Santa Cruz Basilica in Kochi is one of the finest examples of Roman Catholic churches in entire India. It was built by the Portuguese in the early years of the 16th Century. The architectural style of the Santa Cruz Basilica is Gothic and I recommend morning / evening time for the best light for photography.  

Hill Palace at Tripunithura

I must thank Johann for taking me to this particular place as I was not aware of Tripunithura at all. The Hill Palace of Tripunithura has now been converted into a museum. The 17th Century wooden mandapa (hall) featuring carvings of episodes from the Ramayana is a classic exhibit. The annual festival held at the Shri Poornathrayeesa Temple in October-November on the way to the Hill Palace is a grand celebration.

Spices in Kochi

Even though the cacophonous trade around spices in Kochi has reduced considerably these days, the sorting warehouses still exist and function like they have done for hundreds of years. In Kerala, pepper is still sometimes referred to as black gold and when you are visiting, it makes sense to buy some spices straight from the source! Kochi International Pepper Exchange on the Jew Town Rd in Mattancherry was the place where you could until quite recently witness the bidding of different varieties of pepper; but the bidding is now done electronically. Among other spices; there is fine quality ginger, cloves, mace, star anise, nutmeg, cardamom. 

Traditional Kerala Cuisine 

Kochi is an excellent place to try the mind-boggling variety of traditional food of Kerala. Among the recommended dishes are : Puttu served with Kadala curry – a fine rice powder mixed with grated coconut steamed in a mini cylinder served with mildly spicy chickpea stew. Idi Appam and Kerala style egg curry – String hoppers with and spice rich tomato egg curry. Appam and vegetable stew – steamed rice pancakes served with vegetable curry in coconut milk. Malabar Parotta paired with numerous meat dishes. 

Traditional feast (Sadhya), is a multi-course meal extravaganza served on a banana leaf. There’s rice, ghee, variety of stews and curries like sambar, rasam, pachadi, appalam, avial and the last course is the sweet delicacy payasam. 

Kathakali : Kerala’s Classical Art

When in Kochi, visitors have a great chance to attend Kerala’s well known classical art form – kathakali. Kathakali combines various theatrical and performance elements, and is said to have developed during the 16th century. Traditionally, Kathakali performances are held for entire nights during festivals. In Kochi, however, a number of Kathakali performances are held for tourists in the Fort Kochi area and there is a reasonable fee for the 1-2 hour show.  

Sunset Cruise 

Sunset cruise time in Kochi is when the sun casts beautiful orange hues in the sky and a mellow breeze blows. There are numerous companies offering sunset cruises and tickets can be booked at the jetty counter in Fort Kochi. 

Dutch Cemetery

It was an unplanned stop when I came across the closed Dutch Cemetery on a walk in Fort Kochi. The Dutch Cemetery was established in 1724 and is closed to visitors unless you can grab hold of the caretaker! The tombstones at the Dutch Cemetery are said to be the an authentic record of the hundreds of Europeans (both Dutch and English) who lived and died here during the colonial rule of Kochi.

Where is the ‘fort’ in Fort Kochi? – Fort Immanuel 

Fort Immanuel was built by the Portuguese in the 16th century, and is the Fort after which Fort Kochi was named. It was completely destroyed by the Dutch and the British. In the present day, only the remnants of a few walls can be seen on a walk from the Vasco Da Gama square in Fort Kochi.

Bolgatty Palace 

Bolgatty Palace was built in 1744 and has the distinction of being among the oldest Dutch palaces outside of The Netherlands built by the Dutch. It lies on Bolgatty Island which is accessible by ferry.

Cherai Beach

Cherai Beach is about 30 kms from Fort Kochi. The best way to reach here is via the ferry from Fort Kochi to Vypin Island and then take a short bus ride to reach Cherai Beach. The sunset at Cherai Beach is especially beautiful. 

Kochi Muziris Biennale

Every two years, the Kochi-Muziris Biennale is held in Kochi. It is one of the largest art exhibitions in India; and has resulted in some fine art on display. 

Street Art 

The entire Fort Kochi area is full of vibrant street art, and is best explored on an unplanned walk in the tiny nooks and crannies. The graffiti with interesting themes and messages is refreshing and instrumental in bringing the old buildings to life. 

Old Kochi Heritage Walk

Chinese fishing nets, a Jewish synagogue, Kathakali performance, a ruined Portuguese Fort, Spice markets, India’s first European church and 17th Century Dutch homes can all be found on the Old Kochi Heritage walk.

Start walking from Vasco da Gama Square, where you can see the cantilevered Chinese fishing nets lining the shore, then stroll along the Church Road to reach St. Francis Church. Keep walking to see the signboard for the Dutch Cemetery Road, passing the cemetery on your right, and the crumbling walls of Fort Immanuel. Continue the walk to reach Bastion Street and follow the signboards to gaze at the stunning Santa Cruz Basilica.

Among the old colonial houses to be seen on the Old Kochi heritage walk for the blend of architecture are Thakur House, the Jewish Koder House (run as a heritage hotel), Pierce Leslie Bungalow, Ballard Bungalow, Bastion House built to guard the harbour on the old Dutch Fort’s Stromberg Bastion and Malabar House. Also worth a look is Bishop’s Bungalow for the Indo-Portuguese museum. All these old colonial houses are located in Fort Kochi and are accessible on the walk.

A Day in Kochi

Start the day with the Old Kochi Heritage Walk; breakfast at Kashi Art Cafe for excellent coffee and cakes. Head to Mattancherry via a rickshaw to visit the Mattancherry Palace or Dutch Palace and also the Paradesi Synagogue. Also peruse the antique shops and some of the spice shops as well. Enjoy lunch at the local favourite Paragon or Kayees Rahmatullah Café on the Gujarati road in Mattancherry. Spend the evening at Tripunithura Palace and back to Fort Kochi for dinner at the Old Harbour Hotel.

Where to eat in Kochi?

Among the best local recommendations are Paragon in Edappally, Kayees Rahmatullah Café for Biryani. In Fort Kochi, David Hall Gallery & Café, Kashi Art Cafe for coffee and café food while Brunton Boatyard, Pepper House and 1788 (restaurant at Old Harbour Hotel) are all classic fine-dine restaurants.

How to explore Kochi?

It is best to take the pleasures of Fort Kochi by walk as all the sights are accessible by foot and the distances are small. For longer distances; app based taxi services like ola, uber, cab be used. Autos and local buses are easily available too. A unique way to explore Kochi is by ferry. 

Ferry : The ferries are a cheap way to get around Kochi’s main areas considering the traffic at rush our. Regular government ferries ply from Fort Kochi and the different islands and areas are all well connected by ferries as it is the mode of transport that the locals use.

When is the best time to visit Kochi?

July to September is monsoon time and thats when Kochi is at its prettiest in the bountiful rain and greenery. November to February is commonly the most favoured time when the temperatures are bearable. Hotel prices are at their highest in the peak winter season.

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While I have crossed Jalori Pass a number of times over the years on journeys to Kinnaur and Spiti, it has taken forever for me to undertake the trek from Jalori Pass to Serolsar Lake. There is also the small hike / trek to Raghupur Garh (Fort) and the seemingly offbeat nature of the same meant that in the autumn of 2014, I ended up being awed by the majestic valley views from Raghupur Garh (Garh = Fort). That time I was staying in Sojha at one of the two homestays in the tiny village and remember witnessing a majestic moonrise!

Another time in 2017 or 2018, I was accompanied with locals and we reached Jalori Pass in the afternoon and as soon as we started the trek, it started drizzling causing us to consider the Serolsar Lake trek for another time. It was a warm summer and I was put up at Jibhi this time around. I had always thought Serolsar Lake trek to be quite popular and the thought of hiking / trekking with 100-odd first time city trekkers ensured I kept this on the sideline.

I guess it was third time lucky (in hindsight) as I was planning a spring sojourn to Kinnaur in the end of March. The original plan was to head to Batahad village and trek to Baga Sarahan via Bashleo Pass. I had been to Bashleo Pass earlier in 2016 with Jita and had no idea it was a straightforward downhill trek to Baga Sarahan; otherwise we might as well have spent a few days in Baga Sarahan and other parts of Kinnaur. A quick phone call to Thewa Ram Ji in Batahad confirmed my suspicions about snow at Bashleo Pass. It was therefore decided that we would play it by the ear and try to catch the first bus of the day from Kullu to Banjar.

I called the HRTC Kullu bus stand guys and found out that there’s a Kullu to Banjar bus at 530 am and then at 7 am, then at 8 am. We made a practical target to catch the 8 am bus from Kullu bus stand. I tried calling HRTC Banjar but their number was out of order. Anyway, HRTC Kullu guys had informed me that while Jalori Pass was open a few days earlier, recent bad weather and subsequent snowfall meant that buses had stopped plying across Jalori pass and they were only going till Jibhi and Sojha.

We woke up on a fine sunny morning and were quickly on the road at about 715 am. I immediately called HRTC Manali and they said that I would have to rely on a local bus to go from Dobhi to Kullu at this early hour. The Manali to Dharamsala-bound Bedi Travels bus came around and got to Kullu bus stand at 8 am. The Kullu to Banjar 8 am bus had been cancelled (maybe due to the recent snowfall at Jalori Pass) and we continued till Aut in the same Bedi Travels bus and made good time to reach Aut at 9 am.

A Banjar bound local bus was about to leave from Aut but was already full; in the absence of any other options we jumped in and struggled to find even breathing space. The bus was filled to the brim and it was really difficult with our backpacks but the necessity of these kind of journeys is the helping nature of the locals and that ensured everyone managed to survive. The weather was holding up and the sun was still out. Rain was forecast after 1-2 pm and I was hoping we would find a bus headed to Sojha (Shoja) from Banjar bus stand.

I thought that the bus would get less crowded at Balichowki but it turned out to be the opposite as more and more people got in! Thankfully, it was our turn to get seats and it was a smooth arrival at Banjar bus stand. The time was about 1030 am and a few raindrops came around from the overcast skies. I went to find the bus timings for Sojha and was promptly told by the enquiry counter that bus service from Banjar to Sojha has been temporarily suspended with the inclement weather alert and imminent rainfall. The next bus from Banjar to Jibhi was the Gadagushaini bus at 12 noon.

We were in a fix and had no idea what to do next! A couple of taxi guys hovered around quoting outrageous prices for Jalori Pass. A Banjar to Bathad bus was scheduled to leave at 11 am and I briefly flirted with the idea of going to Bathad. Thankfully, sense prevailed and when a shared taxi alto guy came asking, this time I asked him the price for 2 people to Sojha. I told him we lived in Dobhi village and he quoted us the local’s price at INR 200 per person. He had two more passengers who wanted to go to Anni village (across Jalori Pass) and the alto guy was supposed to drop them till Jalori Pass only. It was well known that there would be local shared sumos ferrying passengers from Jalori Pass to Khanag and Anni.

It felt like Banjar town had the same old traffic jam problems. This road has long been awarded the status of a National Highway (NH-305) but there has been no work done on the ground. Anyhow, it was comforting to see a police guy with a walkie talkie directing the traffic and we were soon out from Lower Banjar to Upper Banjar and on the road to Jibhi. The condition of the road was quite terrible (to say the least) and I reminded myself that I wasn’t missing out on too much by not coming this side inspite of living in Kullu Valley.

I was happily surprised when two buses crossed us; they were coming from Khauli – just a bit ahead of Gada Gushaini. Jibhi had the look of a shanty tourist town with multiple colourful homestays/guest houses, cafés, restaurants on both sides of the broken road. There was a sort of relieved sigh to see that we had not chosen the easy way out by opting to stay in Jibhi. Just after we crossed Jibhi and neared Ghiyagi – close to the diversion of Sajwar; the rain started coming down and had me scrambling for my jacket.

In conversations with the co-passengers, I asked if anyone knew the chowkidar/caretaker of the PWD Rest House? The reply was pleasing – it appeared that there was now a newly built Forest Rest House in Sojha as well. I was keen on staying at the vintage PWD Rest House in Sojha and not at one of the numerous homestays / guest houses. The plan was to hopefully find a ride to Jalori Pass next day and trek to Serolsar Lake and come back to Jalori Pass and then decide the further course of action depending on the weather.

The shared alto guy dropped us on the road near the signboard of the FRH in Sojha and I was left wondering about the exact location of the PWD Rest House. The rain was steady and my rain jacket had to be summoned from the small backpack. I didn’t have to wait long to quell my doubts about the PWD Rest House as it turned out to be adjacent to the Forest Rest House in Sojha. We saw smoke coming out of the chimney of one of the houses but were not able to find the caretaker and thankfully went to the Forest Rest House and met the chowkidar there.

He called the son of the PWD Rest House Caretaker and told us to meet him since the Forest Rest House was already booked (which turned out to be untrue!). The son of the chowkidar was very helpful and asked us to take the confirmation of the booking from an official phone number in Kullu. The lady in the office confirmed our stay in ten minutes and asked us to take Set Number 2. We thanked and put our bags in the spacious set number 2 and since we had not eaten anything since morning, asked the caretaker’s son to recommend a place to eat in the town.

He suggested that the Forest Eco-Tourism area has a recently inaugurated canteen and he recommended that over the dhaba in Sojha. So, we just hopped across the gate and found the dining room. Fresh aloo paranthas were the only option to be made in a jiffy and with the cold breeze blowing due to the rain turned out to be perfect. We had multiple rounds of masala chai and requested rajma+chawal to be made on order for dinner.

The whole valley was engulfed in clouds at this moment and it felt quite dreamy. It was a feeling of contentment and satisfaction after a full tummy and the weather gods reciprocated when it stopped raining once we stepped out of the dining area. We decided to go for a short walk in Sojha and see how it has changed over the years. The rain had caused the temperature to plummet and at 2700-2800 metres altitude, Sojha was quite chilly. It looked timeless though with the floating clouds in the valley below.

We came across a handful of newly established hotels in terms of staying options and a few cafés as well. Sojha seemed to have hit the right spot in terms of still keeping the scenic beauty intact unlike Jibhi which can clearly be said to be under the clutches of over-tourism. Locals working at an under construction hotel invited us to sit by the side of the bukhari and we enjoyed the conversation for a while. At about 230 pm, we were back to the PWD Rest House and just in time for it to start raining again.

Thankfully, the PWD Rest House had a long corridor with glasses and we had carried our books. It was teeth chattering cold and we enjoyed the same since these were the last few days of a long winter before summer winds blew in the valley. When the rain relented for a bit, I went around wandering in the PWD Rest House compound and then we went dot on time for our awaited late lunch/early dinner of rajma chawal in the dining area at 5 pm.

Rajma chawal was ready and we were served steaming hot bowls of the ultimate comfort food. It was delicious and we asked for masala chai to round off a grand eating experience in the lovely interiors with the aroma of deodhar wood furniture. We requested him for early morning chai at 7 am the next day and he asked us to just wake him up and he will do the needful. Since we had forgotten a pack of biscuits, we wandered off to the nearby shop in Sojha and with no rain ended up walking to the Banjara Retreat.

The landscapes seemed surreal with the floating clouds and we couldn’t have been more pleased to be out for our evening stroll. We also noticed a number of 4*4 vehicles on the road heading to / coming back from Jalori Pass on our walks on the road in Sojha. So, it was decided to start walking next morning for Jalori Pass and hope that we got a ride in one of the vehicles heading up (if there was) so we could start the Serolsar Lake Trek from Jalori Pass at an early hour. We got back to the wood and glass interiors of the PWD Rest House and made ourselves cosy.

It kept raining on and off and after fiddling with reading and aimless scrolling on the phone, we called it an early night and put our alarms for 630 am. Once the thick blankets got warmed up, it was a nice sleep and we woke up fresh and raring to go and trek to Serolsar Lake. We woke up the canteen owner and he quickly made tea for us while all of us shared the solitary packet of biscuits. We were out on the road even before it was 730 am and since it felt like a nice, clear morning we were happy to start walking on the road to Jalori Pass.

The distance from Sojha to Jalori Pass is almost 5 kms and I was hoping to find a camper or locals headed to Jalori Pass and catch a ride so as to save time. Of course, there were no sounds of a vehicle and we were pleased to be in a thick forest hardly 1 km after walking past Sojha. We spotted a variety of colourful birds in the forest and started encountering snow on the road. There were also a few private tourist vehicles parked on the side of the road as the snow on the road increased and we figured that the vehicle owners were smart enough to come back and take their vehicles when the road became clear.

Just as we were nearing Jalori Pass at about 9 am, two 4*4 campers carrying a bucketful of tourists crossed us and I was in a spell for a moment. Jalori Pass was totally snowed out and there were many vehicles / shared taxis waiting. Some were from Anni, Khanag side while the recent campers who had crossed us were ready to take tourists back to Sojha. They were charging about INR 200 per person for the 4.5-5 kilometre distance between Sojha and Jalori Pass. We went to the nearby dhaba and had a round of black tea; requested dhaba uncle for a plate each of rajma chawal and kadi chawal upon return.

Since we were told the distance between Jalori Pass and Serolsar Lake is 5 kilometres and the fact that it was a level trail, we calculated roughly 3.5 hours for the coming and going and included about 30 minutes of spending time at Serolsar Lake. Our breakfast turned out to be green apples that we had carried and told the dhaba uncle that we would see him on the return. There were a couple of local youngsters standing at the start of the trail and I asked them in the local lingo if there were any confusions that we may encounter on the trail and they said it was a straightforward trek.

We started at 910 am and the weather was holding up for the moment. The sun was playing a constant battle with the clouds and the weather forecast showed 70 odd percent chance of rain/snow at Jalori Pass after 1 pm. So, our aim was to get back after the trek to Jalori Pass before 1 pm and decide the next course of action based on the weather. It was nice to walk on fresh snow although I was a little surprised to see multiple dhabas at the start of the trail. The youngsters who had arrived in campers to the top of Jalori Pass were apparently headed to Serolsar Lake but were playing in the snow seemingly unaware of the fickle mountain weather.

After crossing the cluster of dhabas at the start of the trail from Jalori Pass, we entered a dense oak forest that would continue till we reached Serolsar Lake. There was pin drop silence only interspersed by the sound of falling drops from the melting snow on branches with the currently abundant sunshine. Thankfully, the drops were few and far between and did not create puddles on the trail and we could continue to crunch the fresh snow under our feet. Our heads had to be covered though with the sort of occasional rainfall effect of the same!

We crossed a meadow where the HP Forest Department puts up tents for staying in the summer. Although there were no markings on the trail, the path seemed fairly straightforward and could have become confusing in the snow. Hence, we had asked beforehand and were told there is no turn as such and the entire path is straight rather than a sharp right or left turn somewhere. After 20 odd minutes of walking (roughly past 1 kilometre) there was a camping site to the right and another 360 degree campsite somewhere to the left. The left side campsite seemed to have a vantage viewpoint and could make for a nice nature camp in the summer months.

We continued walking at a brisk speed and after the 2 km mark, came across another cluster of dhabas (all of them were closed with the recent snowfall). The sun was out and two benches were kept at just the right place so we opted for a five minute breather. Here, we met a couple of locals who were walking ahead of us – they were going to open their dhaba that was located close to the lake. They were carrying supplies and told us that they roughly call this 2 km dhaba stretch as the sort of halfway point.

I started feeling quite warm in the direct sun and we opted to start walking again since we were not really tired at all. After this point, the trail gets a little smaller in width and with the melting snow required a bit of extra concentration. There were a few downhill stretches and then uphill stretches but nothing alarming and after another 40 odd minutes of hiking, we came to another area with spread out dhabas(all of them were closed). I figured that the lake was nearby; the watch showed that we had covered 5 kilometres but Serolsar Lake was nowhere to be seen.

Instead, there were steps on the other side of the trail which meant there was more distance to be covered. On the other side, there were about 2-3 sizeable dhabas and one of them had been opened – courtesy of the local couple who went ahead of us. I noticed that the watch showed that we had covered about 5.6-5.7 kms at the dhaba point and I ended up asking the dhaba owner that everyone says that the distance between Jalori Pass to Serolsar Lake is 5 kilometres. He replied saying that the distance is almost 6 kms but like a popular myth, incorrect information has been floating around presumably to make it feel more attractive to first time trekkers!

He said that Serolsar Lake is hardly 200 metres ahead from there and told us to continue straight! We alighted past a flight of snow-laden stairs and came upon a stunning sight. Serolsar Lake looked incredibly beautiful surrounded by snow and had absolutely still waters with a reflection of the nearby trees. There was an iron gate that signified the entry to the walking path around the lake. The first reaction upon seeing Serolsar Lake was that it is quite big whereas in the photographs on the internet it looked quite small.

We walked a bit on the path that was totally submerged in snow and I had a glimpse of The Budhi Nagin Temple that was located on a higher platform on the left overlooking the lake. At first I thought that we would visit the temple but then I quickly deduced that there would be no pujari at the moment, the path was entirely snowed out and a quick look at the sky suggested that the clouds will be back soon. There were a couple of signboards instructing visitors to maintain the sanctity of the lake and not to go near the water. Snow had seeped in inside my shoes and I felt a bit chilly now that the physical activity was reduced to gazing at Serolsar Lake and clicking pictures!

The time was about 11 am and we started climbing the flight of stairs and sat at the dhaba. There was only maggi on offer (which I hate!) and so we decided to ask for black tea and a packet of whatever biscuits they had (nor that I like biscuits!). We had covered more than 10 kms without real food and had 6 more kilometres to trek to get back to Jalori Pass. The weather was holding up for the time being and we totally relished the black tea (laced with cardamom) and biscuits sitting on the wooden benches. We thanked the dhaba couple for leading the way and they recommended us to return in the summer!

In the summer months, every slope on the Jalori Pass to Serolsar Lake trek turns into a camping ground and with the numerous dhabas around – food is never really a problem. Only the presence of crowds deters me from heading to popular places in the high season. We started walking and mentally recollected the landmarks that we had encountered on the way so that we could return safely even if the weather worsened and the visibility reduced.

It was almost 12 noon when we encountered the first visitors on our way back. Another group was accompanied with a local guide and were trying to trek to Serolsar lake on a day when bad weather was forecast after 1 pm. The trail itself had become a bit slushy once more people had walked on it. We opted to sit on the same spot where we had rested at the 2 km mark on the way. As soon as we sat on the benches, it started drizzling and within no time turned to snow. Thankfully, another dhaba had opened by then and was serving 4 youngsters who were having maggi / etc. We sat under the tarpaulin for a minute and decided to just get back to Jalori Pass since it was not too far from there.

Within a matter of minutes the snowfall gave way to fog and mist and we were in a white forest all of a sudden. Thankfully, we were well prepared for this scenario and at this juncture we reached the first campsites where the trail widens. Here, we encountered a number of tourists chilling at the dhabas. Some were headed to Serolsar Lake in this inclement weather. Tourists were enjoying the unexpected snowfall and it felt nice to see the raw feel of the joy of travel. We were back to the dhaba at Jalori Pass just a tad before the clock struck 1. Dhaba uncle gave us a thumbs up and said well done and confirmed that our food is ready!

We gobbled up the rajma chawal, kadi chawal and it was really really delicious and felt even more so after a total of 16 odd kilometres of hiking in the snow. It was a nice feeling to know that living in Kullu Valley was working well for our fitness levels and we were almost on par with the locals in terms on basic speed in hiking even while not trying to speed up. Campers and other 4*4 vehicles were parked on both sides of the road on Jalori Pass and now we had the choice of going to Anni, Khanag or Sojha, Jibhi. It was still snowing and we instinctively said it is best to return home to Kullu Valley and sought about figuring a vehicle.

A shared camper guy said he’s charging INR 200 per person from Jalori Pass to Sojha and that he will leave when the vehicle is full. I tried asking him INR 200 till Banjar so that we could get a bus from Banjar to Kullu but he wouldn’t budge and I figured that he might take more than an hour to fill the number of passengers. After the lovely lunch, we were also ok with hiking back to Sojha along the road if it stopped snowing/raining. Just as we were wondering, I spotted another camper guy who was about to leave for Sojha. I quickly ran and asked him to drop us to Banjar for INR 200 per person. He had no other passengers and asked us to get in as he had to go somewhere and was in a rush.

As we say, sometimes we make our own luck and this camper guy seemed to be doing the same. We paid the dhaba uncle who was so kind that he came to tell the camper guy to drop us safely! There was a local family of five headed to Ghiyagi and off we went without wasting any time. As usual, aimless chatting was the order of the day and the gentleman of the family invited us to their home in Ghiyagi. The snow turned into rain just a few bends after starting our journey and by the time we reached Sojha, there was no sign of snow but only rainfall. The cold also abated a bit and even though my socks and feet were totally wet, I was ok.

The camper guy was quite friendly and told us that he was in a hurry because he was anyway headed to Bhuntar to get the servicing of his vehicle done. He agreed to drop us till Aut for INR 500 total for the two of us. We made good time from Banjar and reached Aut at 4 pm. Our reaching home was delayed as the bus from Aut took forever and after changing another bus in Kullu bus stand, we got down at Dobhi at 630 pm.

The weather was pleasant, our hearts were happy and it was an adventure of a trek from Jalori Pass to Serolsar Lake that made all the difference!

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It had been a glorious few months in Kasar Devi and we had braved through the winter cold. As soon as February began, we chalked out plans to visit the nearby places for weekend visits.

In the last week of February, we left early morning from our cottage in Kasar Devi and walked to the diversion of the road for Jageshwar near Almora, and were lucky to instantly hitch a ride till Chitai Golu Devta. We paid our respects at the temple and started walking on the road and were lucky again to find another ride that dropped us at Artola – the point from where the road diverted for Jageshwar. I remembered from my earlier visit that it would be a pleasant 2 odd km walk from here as the region around Jageshwar is surrounded by pine and deodhar forests to reach the Dandeshwar Temple.

Since the distance between Almora and Jageshwar is only 35 kms, we didn’t bother to have breakfast when we left from Kasar Devi and figured that it made sense to eat an early lunch along the way or directly after reaching Jageshwar.

In 2015, I had stayed in Jageshwar for a day and someone had mentioned that while Vridhh Jageshwar was quite close to Jageshwar; it was a good 8-10 km distance from the road and there was a diversion road for Vridhh Jageshwar from Artola. In the absence of a proper mode of transport (bus or shared taxi), it wasn’t practical to think of a day visit from Jageshwar to Vridhh Jageshwar and back. I had multiple bags with me and therefore had to sort of plan my travel accordingly.

It was a surreal walk on the road from Artola as there were hardly any vehicles and we reached Dandeshwar Temples at about 1230 pm. We were quite hungry and came across a boutique stay on the way to Jageshwar after crossing Dandeshwar Temple. The dining area looked very inviting and we asked the staff if it was possible to make lunch on order? They said lunch would be simple dal, green leafy vegetables, chapati and rice and would take about 30 minutes to make. We requested them to speed it up as we were super hungry!

Food was out of the world when it arrived after some time and we ate till our stomachs were full! The 250 Rupees per person charge felt absolutely worthwhile. We thanked the staff wholeheartedly, paid them and set on our way. We visited the various temples in the Jageshwar Group of Temples complex; crossed the Jataganga stream to reach the Kuber Temple. Jageshwar town seemed to have expanded and didn’t have the charming feel as earlier so we were already thinking of an alternate plan of stay!

We asked the Pandit Ji at Kuber Temple about the hiking trail for Vridhh Jageshwar temple. It was early afternoon and we had ample time for trying to head somewhere else. Pandit Ji was quite confident and told us that the trail to Vridhh Jageshwar was well marked and pretty straightforward. He estimated that the hiking – trekking trail from Jageshwar to Vridhh Jageshwar is about 3-4 kms and should take between 1.5 to 2 hours maximum. He also told us that there were a couple of homestays right in front of the Vridhh Jageshwar Temple and that we would have no trouble finding a place to stay for the night.

It was about 315 pm when we started our walk from Kuber Temple. There was a proper cemented path with beautiful houses surrounded by early spring flower blooms on the way as the onset of the Jageshwar to Vridhh Jageshwar trek. One of the homes had such an incredible array of flowers – on the pretext of asking about the trail, I ended up asking whether the house was also a homestay! The lady of the house quoted a heavy price and we figured that as a classic trait in Uttarakhand. I stuck to the task of confirming the path and was told that a road is being built and that we should take the walking trail even after the road joins.

We were on the right trail and easily climbed a steady ascent in the initial 15 minutes. The weather was sunny when we had started but quickly began to change with clouds gathering and a breeze starting to blow even before we had reached the first road construction that was said to be our first landmark. I tried asking anyone on the trail where the path joined the bigger road in progress but there was no one to be seen and as if on cue, it started drizzling.

Thankfully, we had carried our rain jackets and since we had a rough idea about the trail, continued walking on the dirt road and kept a look out for a walking trail ascending towards our right. The drizzle was steady and we were overjoyed when a vehicle appeared on the road and was kind enough to stop for us. The gentleman was a local who said he was aware of the correct trail to Vridhh Jageshwar and informed us that it is easily identifiable.

We were ecstatic to spot red rhododendron blooming flowers in the forest and even though the road was dusty, the drizzle came as a welcome delight with the smell of petrichor. Even though it was only around 4-415 pm, it started feeling a bit dark in the forested region and we heaved a sigh of relief when we finally saw a hiking trail emerge from the road. It was a sharp ascent and although I was still uncertain about us being on the right path, the occasional raindrops and cold breeze ensured that we kept going ahead rather than second guess.

After about 20-30 minutes the light improved as we climbed higher and were relieved to notice that the drizzle had stopped and the sun had started peeping through the clouds. The rhododendron flowers looked even more beautiful after having a shower in the rain. We clicked a few pictures and I made a mental calculation that there was daylight till 630 pm at least. Even if we were on the wrong trail, our general hiking direction was in the region of Vridhh Jageshwar Temple and we were quite confident about making it to a homestay before dark.

Just as I was starting to get worried about not reaching Vridhh Jageshwar nor seeing any signs if we were on the right trail, we came across a stone boundary and there were multiple trails branching from that place. It was getting super confusing and for a minute I contemplated turning back and just getting back to safety in Jageshwar since we knew the way back. As a distraction, we decided to take a small rest break sitting on the stone boundary and were pleased when a dog came from somewhere.

The presence of a dog increased the possibility of a settlement nearby and my joy knew no bounds when a group of women carrying firewood appeared from nowhere and told us that we might have missed the correct trail but pointed us to a path and said that we will hardly take 15-20 odd minutes to reach Vridhh Jageshwar Temple. It was about 515 pm and we thanked the ladies and rushed on the trail. We had a spring in our step and relief on our minds now that we finally knew that we were about to reach Vridhh Jageshwar Temple and that there were 2 homestay options there.

Within no time we reached a road-head where the road had very recently been laid with tar and for a moment wondered if we had to go left or right but google maps quickly solved the problem. Recent development in the remote areas means there is hardly any place left without mobile network and internet connectivity. The weather had totally cleared and the sun was out. We were in front of the Vridhh Jageshwar Temple and there were only a handful of buildings.

I had assumed that this was a temple town but the solitude felt even more pronounced when we saw that there were only a total of 4-5 buildings that comprised Vridhh Jageshwar! We were shown the room at one of the homestays and were quoted a reasonable price of INR 500-600. It was a basic but pretty comfortable room with an attached bathroom and the owner was soft spoken and a kind hearted man. The homestay doubled up as a dhaba with a general store and the owner lived there with his wife. We requested him for an early dinner of freshly cooked dal, vegetables, rotis at 730 pm and quickly asked him if there was a chance of attending either the evening or the morning aarti at the Vridhh Jageshwar Temple?!

He looked at the watch and asked us to rush to the temple as it was about to be 6 pm and the evening aarti would begin anytime now! We were having a great day and loved this piece of information and quickly walked to the Vridhh Jageshwar Temple. The evening colours in the sky were simply out of the world and the horizon was being painted in yellow and orange hues. Since we were at a much higher altitude, the air felt cleaner and colder and the green hills completed a pretty picture.

The temple was a massive stone structure and the architecture style was similar to the bigger temples in the Jageshwar Group of temples. The Vridhh Jageshwar Temple pre-dates the Jageshwar temples and is said to have been established in 7-8th Century AD. The evening aarti was about to begin and it felt peaceful and calm as there were no other pilgrims or visitors at Vridhh Jageshwar. There is a certain charm about visiting places off the main tourist circuit and we were quite pleased with being able to sit in the aarti and feel the mantras being chanted.

After 30 odd minutes the evening aarti was over, we thanked the Pandit Ji and spent some time gazing at the stupendous after-sunset views. We were super hungry and walked back to our homestay which also doubled up as a general store and a dhaba where pilgrims and visitors could get food made on order. It was almost 7 pm and food was going to take a little longer to get ready so we went to the room and aired it out a little. A bit of fresh air in closed rooms always works wonders. While Jageshwar felt hot during daytime, there was a proper chill in the air in Vridhh Jageshwar and it was not even night yet.

We were quite relieved when the owner uncle handed us an electric rod to heat water (if we needed it). The night skies from the homestay terrace were incredible in the absence of any light pollution in Vridhh Jageshwar. There was a solar powered light at the Vridhh Jageshwar temple but that was hidden by a big tree in the homestay compound. The electricity conked off and decided to give us an even more epic view of the stars. We weren’t complaining and went to the dhaba area when the food was ready.

It was nice to see a proper family run place and aunty was making hot chapatis. We gobbled up the offerings as we had nothing to eat after the fabulous lunch in the afternoon. The wind had really picked up and it felt like a thunderstorm was on its way. We ate well, thanked uncle and aunty wholeheartedly and went back downstairs to our room. It had started to get cloudy and funnily enough the electricity came back!

There was full 4G internet connectivity and it felt nice to lie down in the warmth indoors and do some aimless scrolling. We slept well, after all the body had a nice workout with the hike and was pretty tired.

It was a spectacular morning as the weather had cleared and a stunning 180 degree view of the Himalayan ranges awaited when we were going to the temple for the morning darshan and aarti. There were crystal clear views of Mount Trishul, Nanda Devi and other peaks. We were overjoyed and requested for aloo paranthas for breakfast and enjoyed them in the outdoor sun with the splendid views. Even though the original idea was to leave back for Kasar Devi early morning, it was a delay that felt totally worthwhile.

Someone mentioned that Vridhh Jageshwar lies on an old trekking/hiking route commonly used by pilgrims and it is possible to continue via walking trails to reach other important temples in the region. At around 11, we started walking towards Panuanaula (next sizeable village on the road) and I came across a signboard and a trail towards Jageshwar Dham which mentioned the walking distance as 3 kms. We quickly understood that we had surely got lost in the jungle yesterday and made it to Vridhh Jageshwar by a much longer and confusing trail. A shared taxi duly arrived and we got a ride till Panuanaula.

I don’t remember the exact sequence but it was rhododendron flower season and we got down at a place called Toli where there are a couple of local shops that make fresh squashes. The homestay uncle in Vridhh Jageshwar had given a reference of one of the squash makers and we ended up picking a number of bottles of the various varieties that they recommended. The prices were also quite reasonable, we thanked the owners and caught one of the numerous shared taxis bound for Almora.

It was a feeling of contentment and satisfaction to come back to our cottage in Kasar Devi!

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We left at 1130 am from Kullu, after a hearty meal of rajma chawal and made it to Jispa by about 3 pm after a stop for shipping orders of my book ‘The Goodness of Strangers’ from the Post Office in Manali. There was a slight chill in the air as it was the first week of October and we were well prepared with our winter jackets. The landscape was still green as we crossed Solang Valley and after we emerged past the Atal Tunnel it was a completely different ball game in Lahaul. A cold breeze welcomed us and it was clear that it was going to be super cold in Lahaul valley with the wind chill as it seemed to have already started snowing on the high mountains.

We paid the SADA development fee that is being levied on all non-local vehicles for entering Lahaul and moved towards Tandi and Keylong. The autumn colours of Sissu were not at their best this year; yet with the popularity with instagram tourists it was a crowded stretch. We were flexible with our place of stay in either Keylong or Jispa but were keen on finding something with ample open spaces for us to walk around. Since there was plenty of sunshine still left in the day, we made a consensus and decided to go till the PWD Rest House in Jispa and see if they had rooms. Anyway, we would cross the other prospective options in Keylong – Jispa on our way to the PWD Rest House as it was located at the fag end of Jispa town.

The caretaker was around and recognised me from a previous visit. He said that the PWD Rest House has only two rooms and that one room is already booked for a night but both the rooms are available for the next day. We quickly asked him to book both the rooms for the next day and to show us the room available. He recommended to us to book the room and that he would put extra mattresses and since it was a cozy carpeted room, we would be well served. We agreed and requested him to check if the booking for the previous room was cancelled so that we would get both the rooms. We were quite pleased as the rooms came with an attached washroom and had a working geyser.

It felt a little funny to be spending two days in Lahaul acclimatising even though we lived in Kullu Valley. We figured that since the plan was to spend a few nights in Merak village at about 4400m, it was best to spend a few nights at 3000-3500m to minimize the chances of AMS. The wind chill in October in high-altitude areas is a killer and therefore we wanted to get used to the cold in Lahaul before the super cold of Merak. Jispa already had the feel of a deserted town where the homestays and restaurants were closing for the season and we were thankful that a lone eatery was open near the PWD Rest House. The said eatery was also going to close down in the next few days and we felt lucky!

The original plan was to head to Zanskar now that the road via Shinku La / Shingo La / Shinkun La was well and truly operational; stay a night in Padum and then move to Leh via the dirt trail route that passed through Zangla, Lingshed, Singge La and Sirsir La to end up near Photoksar and join the highway at Wanla. Since we did not have many days in hand, it was ultimately decided that the long route via Zanskar might turn out to be extremely tiring and that it was better to head to Ladakh via the Manali-Leh highway only. Local news in Lahaul also indicated that vehicles were only allowed to cross the Darcha check-post after 9 am because it had started freezing on some sections of the road to Zanskar as well as Leh.

We spent a nice two days in Jispa soaking in the abundant sunshine and enjoying the autumn blaze of Lahaul Valley. It was a memorable meal at one ‘The Climber’s Café’ in Keylong Bazaar and the nearby dhaba also made fresh food so there were no complaints. Nights were freezing cold but it sort of prepared us for even colder temperatures in the next few days.

We had a nice cup of chai and left for Darcha at about 8 am with a plan of having breakfast at one of the dhabas in Darcha while waiting for the check-post guys to wave us through after 9 am. When we reached Darcha, there was a newly constructed dhaba / restaurant just before the police check post and we decided to stop there. Funnily enough, there was no need to wait till 9 am and the road to both Zanskar and Ladakh was open for vehicular traffic. We were still in two minds with regards to taking the longer route via Padum and Singge La to reach Leh and even put Padum as our destination in the diary of the police check post officer.

The dhaba owners were from Rarik village and told us that while the road to Padum was in excellent condition; the road via Lingshed-Singge La was in fact a dirt road with a few tricky and frozen sections that would take us over 10 hours to reach Leh from Padum. Before we finished our cups of black tea, the deal was sealed and as we walked back to the car – I remembered to ask the police officer to change our destination to Leh instead of Padum in the check post register. The road past Darcha felt like a breeze and we quickly started ascending to Zing Zing Bar and towards Baralacha La.

It was a clear day and based on our previous autumn trip to Leh last October, we were keen on staying in the region of Hemis/Thiksey this time around. We made good time on the road and despite leaving quite late crossed Sarchu around noon. The weather was absolutely clear and there was nary a cloud in the deep blue sky. It was a fine day as we crossed the flat land past Sarchu and the aquamarine waters of the Tsarap Chu were flowing beneath us in the valley below. It felt like pin drop silence at over 4200m, and we stopped for a while to admire the views and the pristine colour of the water.

We opted to not stop for a snack/lunch/tea at Sarchu since we were not feeling hungry and continued towards Pang. The dustiest stretch of the entire Manali to Leh road was the road from Sarchu to Pang. There were a few sections with single lane traffic that caused mini traffic jams with a number of trucks lined up on both sides. It was sudden hunger that compelled us to stop at Pang – Pang looked like a fancy avatar of the grimy ramshackle dhabas from a decade ago! It was close to 2 pm and the eatery where we stopped was almost out of food – the lady was only able to serve one plate of semi-cooked dal and rice among the four of us.

Anyhow, I have never liked Pang and the feeling was reinforced when I tried to go to pee. There was a lake sort of water body visible behind the multiple dhabas and no prizes for guessing what the stench was like! Our friends went to another dhaba for some chowmein noodles and were quite surprised that most of the eateries in Pang also doubled up as accommodation options in the night. I was mildly shocked to know this since Pang is at an altitude of some 4600m, it is not pleasant at all to stay at this altitude without being properly acclimatised. Authorities should look into this in the light of the rules for tourists to acclimatise before heading to Pangong Tso/Changthang and other high-altitude areas of Ladakh.

We were happy to bid goodbye to Pang and start our ascent to the other passes viz. Lachung La and Taglang La. The road was in excellent condition and it was mildly surprising to see snow piled on both sides of the road at Taglang La. Of course the outside temperature was freezing and a deathly cold breeze blew. We tumbled down the pass and crossed the dhabas of Debring and I saw a faint road leading to the left side to a nomadic settlement – Kharnak. I was supremely interested in Kharnakpas and their weaves like challi, pherri, tsug-dul, tsug-den and more made from yak wool, sheep wool and the likes.

In no time we were at Rumtse and ogled at the varied hues of the mountains that were enhanced with the evening light and the rich autumn colours. We crossed the pretty looking hamlets of Miru, Gya, Lato and made a mental note of staying at one of these three villages on our way back. A night stay here would considerably reduce our single day travel time on the return journey enabling us to leave early and still reach Kullu Valley before dark. It was close to 5 pm when we crossed Upshi; the Indus river was a pristine shade of blue while the autumn colours were a shining yellow.

We had started to keep an eye out for signboards of homestays since the idea was clear that none of us wanted to stay in Leh. Hemis quickly went out of the reckoning since we crossed the diversion after crossing Upshi. With no extra help from google maps, we decided to take the right turn to Thiksey monastery and were certain that there would be a number of homestays there for us to stay. The time was around 520 pm and the sun would soon go behind the mountains. We decided to ask a young kid on the road about a homestay and he indicated to us to take a right and we would find Goltuk homestay. He didn’t seem very confident about our choice though and suggested that there was a nice hotel nearby that would be better for us.

Nevertheless, we thought lets see this Goltuk homestay and then figure our options. We took a right and saw a signboard for a homestay and asked a lady who was walking on the street and it turned out to be her home! She showed us the rooms and while the price mentioned was also ok, the rooms did not come with an attached washroom and that prompted us to ask if there was another homestay nearby that might perhaps have rooms with an attached washroom? She suggested another homestay just around the corner and we sought about finding that. It was duly spotted after a short walk and while we liked the open spaces and the garden, the host was missing and there was no one who could show us the rooms!

In the meanwhile, the light had started dwindling and it would soon be dark within a few more minutes. The cousin sister of the host came to our help and called the aunty to come with the keys of the rooms so that we could figure our possibility of a stay. At the outset, she said that we could only stay for 1 day because there was a festival planned for the next evening at a neighbour’s home. She also said that one of the washrooms had a water problem. We liked the rooms that both came with a clear and direct view of Thiksey monastery and agreed on a reasonable price for 2 days and promised her to cooperate with the meals if she could not find time for cooking! Simple breakfast and dinner was included in the offerings of the homestay.

The homestay had only two rooms and one was on the first floor and the other one was on the ground floor. Aunty at the homestay seemed to have had troubles in the past with Indian guests who were happier with mainland food rather than trying local Ladakhi food and therefore she tried to make us stay for only 1 day. I don’t blame her for her thought process because I have observed lately that the boundaries between a homestay and a hotel are blurred and happy-to-please hosts simply don’t know how to turn down demands laid out by guests. It appears sometimes that some folks stay at a homestay primarily due to the comparatively cheaper price and then take undue advantage of the hosts’ kindness by laying down demands as per their whims and fancies.

I’d say the demands / whims and fancies might be justified at a hotel but not at a family run homestay. Hence, the lady was initially wary of us but was quite calmed with our mention of living in Kullu Valley. Little did she know that we were actually looking forward to freshly cooked Ladakhi dishes and since the homestay also had an adjoining kitchen garden in the farm, most of the produce would be fresh and homegrown! Aunty gave us a quick round of tea as a welcome drink as we put our bags in our respective rooms. We ogled at the beauty of the after-sunset colours with snowy peaks in the backdrop, even as stars began to shine in the brilliant high altitude Ladakhi sky and the yellow shaded poplars stood tall in the rapidly intensifying cold while the timeless Thiksey monastery watched the proceedings quietly on the other side.

We unpacked our bags and kept the home baked zucchini teacakes and the apple cakes out so that we didn’t forget to savour them. On a thoughtful whim, we cut a generous slice of both the cakes and presented them to aunty in the kitchen. Aunty and her cousin sister warmed up the cakes and took them for the entire family to taste! We were so glad they loved it and thanked us for getting them a taste of homemade bakes. As part of the homestay culture, it is a nice thing to do to break the ice.

Our joy was multiplied upon seeing that Thukpa was being made for dinner! We entered the kitchen and traditional dining area lined with Chogtse tables and thanked aunty for rustling up thukpa at such short notice. She replied that making thukpa was no trouble at all and all she had to do was pick fresh produce from the farm. The flat noodles used in the thukpa were locally produced in Leh. We sat and gazed at the traditional cookware and collection of utensils in the sitting area. Aunty served us thukpa in the traditional bowls and I liked it so much that I had three helpings! I think it was then that aunty must have realised that we were indeed going to turn out be amicable guests who knew how to stay at a homestay.

Aunty told us that next day’s dinner would be a little difficult for her to make because of the evening function and suggested that we could dine at the nearby Chamba Hotel that always served excellent food in Thiksey. We told her not to worry and that we will manage. Our plan for next day was to head to Leh for lunch and get the car washed as well.

It became colder as the evening progressed and after the drive we chose to relax in our rooms. The sight of the dimly lit dwellings on the base of Thiksey monastery was calming. We called it a night and tried to sleep early so that we could wake up at 6-ish and perhaps walk to the monastery for the morning prayers.

It was a cold, cold night and the modern quilts and blankets were no match for the hitherto traditional warmth of the homestays. I had a mild headache and even though we had spent a good 2 nights in Lahaul acclimatising in the same altitude and temperatures – I was a bit surprised by the same. We had carried our tea masala and ginger and aunty was more than happy to let us make our milk tea. It felt nice as the sun was out and we went to the first floor balcony to enjoy our tea. We made an extra cup for aunty as well and she was so happy with the result that we let her know the secret of the magic masala as well!

The fun of living amidst nature has no parallel and we laid out a carpet and sat in the garden. Aunty said there would be basic omelette and khambir (local Ladakhi bread) for breakfast and that it would be served at about 9 am in the open canopy in the garden. The canopy lent a very Italian vineyard feel to the setting as it was covered in green with black kidney beans vines and had a sturdy wooden table and chairs beneath it. Of course the icing on the cake was the sun shining brightly on Thiksey monastery, making it an impeccable setting. Aunty’s sons were up as well and we met them too. Breakfast was served at 9 and it was fun to dig into the tiny muskmelon grown on aunty’s farm. We thanked her for letting us try a homegrown muskmelon as we were totally unaware about them growing in Ladakh!

We sat and lounged in the sun for a while but quickly realised that the direct sunshine was too much to handle and funnily enough my mild headache persisted. It was time for a hot water bath after the rigours of the road journey on the previous day. The room felt quite cold and we quickly figured that the room on the ground floor would receive sunshine only in the latter part of the day. Anyhow, I sat outdoors after the bath and was reminded of the classic conundrum in Ladakh – it was hot in the sun and still felt very cold in the shade, especially with the breeze blowing. In a few more minutes, it was time for us to head to Leh.

When we mentioned autumn colours, the elder son suggested to us to go to Matho monastery if we wanted to enjoy the full splendour of the fall/autumn colours as it was located at a vantage point. He was also kind enough to share the route by road as the route suggested by google maps had a bridge repair issue and was closed for the time being. It was a longer drive but the stunning autumn colours in Matho village and then on the way to the monastery were surreal and we were delighted to have come that side. We chose to walk back to the village from the monastery and also tasted ripe but very sour seabuckthorn berries after some locals’ insistence!

After a good part of more than an hour spent in Matho village, we continued on our way to Leh. As we had expected, the autumn colours were not as pronounced as they were in Matho. On the way, we came across a small scale industry drying seabuckthorn to make it into a pulp. I was keen on buying the pulp and even got the contact of the lady in charge of the processing, but it turned out that seabuckthorn pulp uses a lot of preservatives otherwise it spoils pretty quickly. Even though the price offered for the seabuckthorn pulp was almost half of what we get in Lahaul valley, I ended up not buying a bottle since it involved a detour to Chuchot village and there was nobody to guide us.

We were keen on having a nice meal in Leh and tried to make a reservation at Alchi Kitchen but it turned out that the Leh branch of Alchi Kitchen was closed (like it was a year ago!) and they were taking reservations for a meal in Alchi! With the change in plan, we had to find parking space at Rabsal Parking near the main bazaar and then walked to Tibetan Kitchen. It was progressing to a funny scene as Tibetan Kitchen turned out to be closed for the day; Bon Appetit felt like a confusing walk as our friends were already super hungry. So we spotted the signboard for Summer Harvest – saw a few locals come out of the restaurant that validated the eatery and decided to have our lunch there!

I still had a niggling headache and while I kept trying to forget about it, there was no denying that I was not at my 100%. The food at Summer Harvest was satisfactory and some dishes turned out to be excellent. We paid the bill and now it was about 230 pm and all of us went our separate ways. I went sauntering in the market on my customary walk and meeting my old acquaintances if they were around. The car had to be taken for a wash before we head to Pangong Tso / Merak village the next day. So, everyone had roughly 1.5 hours before we decided to meet up on the main road near the circular bazaar in Leh. It was very hot during the day and quite dusty with all the endless construction everywhere near the main road.

It was a sort of aimless walk for me – I bought some Saspola apples, drank a glass of the sugarless apricot juice at Dzomsa, tried to (unsuccessfully) buy a chogtse table, met with a known shop owner to check if they had a surplus bundle of Zanskari spuruks, perused the circular market for the indigenous black peas (shrannma or nagshranma) and bought a kilo, tasted some chhurpe, wondered what was the black cake called skotse and largely marvelled how far Ladakh has come in terms of tourism. Tourists from the cities were buying an average variety of dried apricots for astronomical prices without bothering to check the quality and taste. I never heard the name Halman (fine variety from Turtuk and the villages around the Dah-Hanu area) when I was in the bazaar.

I used the washroom at the fancy looking café opposite Dzomsa and figured that Leh had well and truly arrived on India’s tourist circuit with a bang and for raw experiences it was essential to travel to some remote locations still untouched by tourists. As soon as I got free, our friends arrived and we sat in the car. While waiting, I spotted the gentleman who was the orchestrator of the great hitchhiking escape from Diskit to Leh in a winter snowstorm. I quickly ran out of the car and after confirming he was indeed the same person – thanked him for the kindness and gifted him a copy of ‘The Goodness of Strangers’.

I was overjoyed at this unexpected meeting and wondered about possibly gifting copies of the book to some other kind folks in the Changthang region who were responsible for the experiences detailed in a few chapters of the book. We started on our return journey back to Thiksey since we were very keen on spending the evening in the farmstay-homestay. Our tummies were filled for the time being but the issue of eating dinner outside remained. We enjoyed a nice evening gazing at the colours in all the directions while my nagging headache continued prompting me to rethink if I was prepared to go to Merak inspite of this minor struggle.

In the evening, aunty was dressed up and ready to go for the evening ceremony of the nearby party. The sound of drums and revelry started coming from the direction. She asked us what were our plans for dinner and I told her that we had a heavy lunch outside and that we would be happy to eat a light meal. Aunty anyway had to cook food for the family so she asked us if we were happy with with simple pulao and we told her pulao was exactly what we needed! She quickly rustled up a cooker and all the farm grown vegetables went in it resulting in a delicious and light pulao / masala chawal. All four of us thanked her wholeheartedly for the extra effort because we were mentally prepared to go to Chamba Hotel for dinner!

I think it was then that I made up my mind that in the two days spent here, we had not even gone to Thiksey monastery and just running off to the cold of Merak didn’t sound very appealing. The added charm of seeing the autumn colours along the road via Chang La to Changthang and on the return via Chumathang was not enough to wean me off the thought of staying longer in Thiksey. It would be no fun if I didn’t feel better after reaching Merak as well. I was certain that it was not AMS since I had no issues in breathing but it was a constant mild headache. After dinner, it was decided that our friends would leave for Merak after breakfast since it would take about 6 hours from Thiksey and we would stay put at the same homestay. We decided to meet near Upshi at 3 pm after 3 days even if our phones didn’t work and we were not able to communicate.

We slept early and I made a mental note to myself to check the oxygen level if the headache persisted the next day as well. I was also keen on waking up early for the 6-30 am morning prayer at Thiksey Monastery but was also aware that we had two more mornings at the homestay. Aunty had already confirmed that we could move to the upstairs room and she would be happy to host us for 2 more days. It was a relaxed morning and I felt very nice to be able to soak in the sunshine with the perfect masala chai. Our friends left early after a quick breakfast of toasted bread and butter and when aunty asked us if we wanted traditional Ladakhi butter tea & khola or bread + butter for breakfast – we opted for the traditional option. She was pleased with our choice and laid out a carpet in the garden.

Out came two traditional goblets that were made from a specialised metal and two wooden baskets with barley flour and another with buckwheat / whole wheat flour. She mixed some homemade ghee and sugar and put the different flours in different goblets and then poured the salty butter tea on top. We mixed everything with our fingers and made the flour into small balls to eat. It tasted delicious and we told aunty that we had eaten this as khola earlier at Yuthok Homestay. We enjoyed cups of butter tea with the khola and finished off our breakfast in no time. Aunty also cut a tiny watermelon grown on the farm and we totally loved it!

After a while, the direct sunshine became too much for me and I chose to sit on the chairs but the headache had already returned. We are keen on walking around Thiksey and enjoy the magic of the autumn yellow of the poplar trees. After partially enjoying a walk under the canopy of the yellow trees on the side of the road, we decide to turn back because there is no fun in inhaling the toxic fumes of the trucks that are in numbers on this road. While coming back, I get my oxygen level checked at Hotel Chamba and it came totally fine and we quickly deduced that my headache is due to the exposure to direct sunlight. I had forgotten to carry my sunglasses to Ladakh.

We got back to the homestay and enjoyed the warmth of the mansion-type room on the first floor. I lay down for a bit and slept and instantly started feeling better. Now that the reason for the headache was largely clear, it was decided that I borrow my partner’s sunglasses and try to never look directly into the sun. We head back to the restaurant at Chamba Hotel for lunch and the food turned out to be super delicious. It is a place run by the monks and the restaurant cook/staff was from Jharkhand and made excellent food. We sat in the shade and really enjoyed the time spent here. We set out for a short walk post lunch and explored the by-lanes of Thiksey.

The library looked very appealing and was managed by the monks. We stepped inside and saw a few young students study in the warmth of the indoors. The book collection was massive and there was even a tea/coffee machine for visitors. There was pin drop silence and we quickly realised that the Thiksey library might just become our new favourite place while we stayed at the homestay. I was immersed in reading a historical book on undivided Ladakh when I received a phone call and had to go out. The outdoors had a sprinkling of blooming flowers and there was even a cute café in one of the corners. We wondered if the café would be a great hidden find when it was open during the summer.

When it was close to 5 pm and close to sundown, we decided to take the long walk via the road to Thiksey Monastery parking and while I gazed at the views on the other side – my partner climbed the stairs to the main monastery to find the exact timing of the morning prayers. The autumn colours in the direction of Leh city appeared to dazzling in the mellow evening light. I started feeling a bit cold with the evening breeze once the sun went down and opted to walk back via the road route. There were a few monks also going for their evening walk while chanting prayers and it felt nice to be in calm company.

My partner came back via the shortcut path through the stairs and we ended up meeting near our homestay and continued the walk. The sky was painted in orange and pink hues and with the moon peeking out from behind the barren mountains presented an unforgettable sight. We savoured the ethereal beauty of Ladakh for as long as the light lasted and then aunty presented us with another piece of information that made proceedings even better! She was cooking purple cabbage momos for dinner – the cabbage she had just picked up from the kitchen garden. Aunty and uncle were supposed to go to the party at the nearby family’s house and therefore aunty said dinner would be ready by 730 pm.

We were ecstatic to hear that as early dinners were a habit for us and also the fact that aunty said that she had got a bottle of local chaang for us to drink! The momos along with the fresh chutney turned out to be so delicious that we polished off the entire container of momos that aunty had made for us. We thanked her numerous times and told her that these were some of the best momos that we’ve ever had. We walked under the open skies for a bit and appreciated the moonlight. The room was cozy and much warmer than the downstairs room and that meant we slept peacefully.

The view of the sunlit Thiksey monastery first thing in the morning was the icing on the cake. We had the absolute pleasure of doing nothing but just went through the morning with basic stretching, yoga and meditation. After a relaxed hour or so, we went to make chai and also gave a bit of the chai masala powder to aunty. In return she gave us a packet of seabuckthorn tea and a sapling of the wild mint growing in their farm. We had a quick breakfast and then decided to go sauntering around to some places recommended by aunty’s younger son as he had by then realised that we were happy to go anywhere quiet where we had less chances of encountering other tourists!

We went to the road and found a ride after walking for a while. The army guy was from Bikaner and dropped us to the viewpoint past Stakna monastery. It was a memorable view of the aquamarine waters of the Indus River with the autumn yellow of the trees and Stakna Monastery with an array of snowy peaks in the background. The sun was shining with full force and after some time we had to find a shaded space to wait for the ride back. On some sections, we walked under a shaded canopy of trees and absolutely loved the raw feel of discovery. We were unable to find the park suggested and ultimately after we found a ride we were dropped at the Thiksey monastery diversion.

The restaurant at Chamba Hotel came to the rescue and we ate our lunch in the supremely relaxed setting and also made a mental note to eat there before we left for Upshi, the next day. We head straight to the library after lunch and spent a good 2-3 hours reading. I wondered in my mind how travelling is all about being flexible and the joy of these offbeat things can only be felt, and not spoken. Since tomorrow would be the last day for us in Thiksey, we walked back to our homestay and made sure of not wandering around here and there so that we could wake up early and go to attend the morning prayers at Thiksey monastery.

Aunty asked us whether we wanted rajma chawal or chutagi for dinner and we unanimously voted for chutagi! It was an early dinner as by now aunty had figured that we ate by 7 pm. The chutagi was super yummy and we thanked aunty for the incredibly delicious food. My headache had miraculously almost disappeared and we attributed it to the sunglasses and the strategic decision to not walk with the sun directly facing me. Next morning, we woke up very early and walked the stairs of Thiksey monastery in the chilling cold. The prayers started a bit late than what we were told but the feeling of calm was so beautiful, that we sat through the entire hour long ceremony. Thankful to the monks to have plied us with multiple helpings of butter tea.

At the homestay, while packing I found that the half kilo meetha karela vegetable from Kullu Valley had not been used and I asked aunty if I could make it for everyone. She was pleased at trying this exotic looking vegetable. We ate it with the local khambir bread in a magical setting under the green vine and a view of Thiksey monastery. It remains a classic memory from this particular trip to Ladakh where the objective became to relax at the homestay in Thiksey.

Later in the afternoon, we said our thanks and goodbyes to the family and started walking to Chamba Hotel for lunch. It turned out that they had just closed for the season and in the absence of any other options we decided it was better to get to Upshi and find a nice eatery there. It made sense to reach Upshi early so that our friends did not have to wait when they returned from Merak via the Chumathang route. We were lucky to find a ride within no time of standing on the road. It felt excruciatingly hot in the harsh Ladakhi sun and when we stepped inside the stunningly beautiful interiors of Rigo Restaurant in Upshi, the old memories of eating food at dusty dhabas in Upshi were washed away.

Ladakh has truly changed – for better or for worse, that only time will tell but it is still possible to have new experiences with homestays like the one in Thiksey leading the way in showcasing local farm life in Ladakh at a reasonable price. The onus remains on us visitors to embrace the life lived by the locals – after all thats why we travel ‘To become a local in every place we visit!’

We met with our friends at 330 pm in Upshi, and drove straight to picturesque Lato village on our way back. Next day, it felt like deja vu when it started snowing as we crossed Taglang La and once we crossed Baralacha La and reached our home in Kullu Valley – aunty from the Thiksey homestay called next day and told us that it had snowed and the Manali – Leh highway was closed for traffic.

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It had been almost three months in Kasar Devi near Almora and since the coldest months of the winter were behind us and spring was fast approaching, we thought why not head to Munsiyari just before the Holi festival holidays! We were in the third week of March and the post-pandemic era of travel meant that the bus service to Munsiyari was not operational and that necessitated finding out details about the shared transport options from Almora to Munsiyari.

I started by asking at the local shared taxi area in Almora and they were clueless about a direct option from Almora to Munsiyari. Someone suggested that we first take a shared taxi from Almora to Bageshwar and then try our luck for another shared taxi from Bageshwar to Thal and then figure another shared taxi from Thal to Munsiyari. Another idea that locals figured was to take the morning bus to Pithoragarh and then find a shared taxi from Pithoragarh to Munsiyari. The trouble with both these options was the probability of spending a night in transit in either Bageshwar or Pithoragarh and while both these places are tourist destinations in their own right, we were in no mood with a break journey.

I reminisced about my grand summer of 2015 in Kumaon, and recollected sketchy details about direct shared sumos that plied between Haldwani to Munsiyari and left from Haldwani at about 6 am. They would cross Almora at about 9-10 am and reach Munsyari in the daylight around 5-6 pm. I was able to find out more details about the shared vehicles from Haldwani to Munsiyari through local contacts in Almora and they confirmed that it was indeed the best way to reach Munsiyari from Almora in one day. My local contact shared the phone number of the daily service and these days a tempo traveller plied on this route.

The charges were fixed at INR 1000 per seat from Haldwani to Munsiyari and after some negotiation, we were able to finalise 2 seats from Almora to Munsiyari at 700 per seat. Since we had booked in advance, we were able to secure excellent front seats. On the day of the journey, we came to the bypass road near Almora and even though the tempo traveller was about 30 minutes late from the estimated time, we were overjoyed to sit in a direct vehicle that would reach Munsiyari before night fell! It was a smooth ride despite multiple tyre punctures; with excellent food stops on the way. As we reached the highest point of Kalamuni top – the scintillating array of Panchachuli peaks with a surreal pink sky welcomed us among the candelabra of jagged white peaks.

We were keen on staying in a homestay in Munsiyari itself for 3-4 days and directly taking the same shared sumo / tempo traveller back to Kasar Devi, Almora. It had been a while since I had tasted the delicious and unique dishes of Johar Valley which is a whole lot different than the usual Kumaoni food available elsewhere. A basic search on the internet revealed that all the homestays in Munsiyari seemed to be located in Sarmoli village and while the initiative was excellent, as always I was looking for a raw and novel experience.

The perfect adage of ‘what you seek is seeking you’ worked when the owner of the tempo traveller had recently started a homestay and on the phone he welcomed us to stay and promised home cooked meals. I was a bit skeptical because there were no pictures shared but the fact that it was a newly built homestay meant that it would have the modern conveniences that we looked forward to since we were already living in a pretty basic setup in Kasar Devi. We reached Munsyari and were dropped close to the bazaar where the homestay was located in a quiet and peaceful lane. The owner Pankaj was soft-spoken and kind and we agreed on a price of INR 1000 including basic home-cooked meals.

The homestay was a new building some 2 minutes walk from the original home of the owners. The room was spic and span with an attached washroom. As night fell, we were asked to come to the original home for dinner. It felt quite cold and our joy knew no bounds when aunty ushered us into the warm confines of their old home. We were seated on the dining table adjoining the kitchen and she served us hot food with chapatis straight from the tawa. The food was yummy and we ate well, thanked her for the same and requested her if it was possible to savour different varieties of local food over our course of stay.

She was happily surprised to have guests who understood how a home-run kitchen works as the first stayers at their homestay. We told her to not get hassled about our food and that we had no untoward demands and would be happy to eat whatever was being cooked for the family if aunty was busy! Since Holi festival was around the corner, aunty told us that she might have to go and attend a few get-togethers and that we should be prepared to eat a meal or two at a local dhaba if she was not around.

Pankaj Bhai told us that someone will bring us tea in the morning at the homestay itself – we filled our water bottles, wished them good night and walked back to the homestay. It was fully dark at this point and the stars shined in their full glory with the Panchachuli mountains providing a great backdrop. We woke up early next morning and went to the roof for a legendary one hour Munsiyari sunrise! It was freezing cold but well worth it to see the sun come from behind the snowy mountain range and the rays scatter in all directions in the blue sky.

Over the course of our stay in Munsiyari; we walked around town and went to the usual places like Nanda Devi Temple, Darkot village, Tribal Heritage Museum, saw the colourful holi festivities of the locals, and explored the local market, but the highlight of the trip was the hike to Khaliya Top. The entire trail beginning from Balati Bend was filled with pink and red rhododendron flowers in full bloom. We had started very early in the morning and the views of Panchachuli peaks were extremely clear in the cloudless sky. It remains an unforgettable memory walking in the forest with the splash of colour everywhere the eyes could see.

As we climbed higher, the views kept getting better and after we crossed the KMVN Guest House – it felt even more surreal while climbing to Zero Point. It was almost a 360 degree view. We savoured some dry fruits with the magical sights around us and even as a rousing wind started blowing, we lie down in the meadow. There was some unmelted snow in some parts as we neared Zero Point. In hindsight, it felt like luck was on our side as clouds started gathering as soon as we started our descent at around 1-130 pm.

The rhododendron delight made me wonder if it would be a good idea to visit Munsiyari for the autumn colours!

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We woke up at about 7 am and requested the kitchen guys at the Rest House to serve us some aloo/gobhi paranthas as quickly as possible. They were on time and we were ready to leave after 2 paranthas each. We were not sure about our evening / night stay plans since Raila was only planned as a day trip. Therefore, the staff told us to keep our backpacks in one of the dormitories.

Our target was to reach Raila; visit Dhaliara Kothi, and perhaps also see the waterfall on the way and explore some unknown places – and try and possibly return by evening at the rest house. We were flexible with our thought process and had kept two options – revisit Upper Neahi village or head to Shangarh and relive some good old days. Ya, I know it sounds pretty far-fetched as a plan when you don’t have your own transport – but thats what my style of travel is about!

When we were in Sainj one day earlier, I had tried to find the bus timings to Raila and the taxi union guys had ensured in convincing me that there was no morning bus from Sainj to Raila and that there were 2 buses a day that plied in the afternoon. So at least, we were clear about our return journey with the surety of a bus. We started walking on the road from the GHNP Ropa Rest House and even though we were not sure about the 1km distance to the bridge from where the road to Raila diverted, we were happy to walk.

As it happens with so many things in life, a bus from Shanshar came as soon as we were out of the gates of the rest house but we chose to let it go since the bridge was only 1 km! When after 15-20 odd minutes of walking there was no sign of a bridge or the landscape changing, Jita checked google maps and the truth dawned on us that the bridge to Raila is at least 4 km from the GHNP Ropa Rest House.

If there was no predetermined time of returning from Raila, we might have actually enjoyed the walk on the road with the sound of the river a constant company at this early hour of 8 am. However, it seemed that we were off to a terrible start to the day and logic suggested that we better keep the reserve of good luck on the road when we would invariably have to resort to hitchhiking in the absence of a bus!

After a while, we were lucky to get a seat on another HRTC bus and funnily enough got down before the actual bifurcation when we saw a small bridge and thought that to be the road to Raila! Anyhow, we walked ahead and reached the actual concrete bridge at a turn called Siund where the road continued to the power project and Raila village.

Just to be doubly sure, I asked a few school-bound kids who confirmed that it was the road to Raila and presented us with a very encouraging piece of information. They said that they were also waiting for the Sainj to Raila bus that would be coming anytime now. I saw the watch and it was about 9 am; we were quite ecstatic upon hearing the news of a bus but the skeptic in me wasn’t sure yet and we chose to walk past the power project area and reached a shop where the bus news was confirmed. It was about 930 am at that time and they said as well that the bus is about to come!

Since the sun was directly hitting the shop and there was no space to sit, we chose to walk a bit ahead and sit upon finding some shade under a tree by the side of the road. We are confident about the arrival of a bus at this juncture, since so many locals have told us about the morning bus to Raila. They confirm that the last return bus from Raila to Sainj is at 4 pm.

The clock ticks by and we notice there are hardly any vehicles crossing us on this road. It is almost 10 am and I am beginning to get restless and not sure if the morning bus to Raila really exists or it is a figment of the villagers imagination! Just as we are about to start walking, the HRTC Sainj to Raila bus arrives and we are relieved.

The bus is almost full; mostly with school children. The shopkeeper guys had told us to ask the bus conductor for tickets till Kamtan village (last stop for the bus to Raila). The twin towers of Raila or Dhaliara Kothi were a short walk from a turn just before reaching Kamtan village and the conductor would assist us in the directions for the same.

The road to Raila is full of sharp hairpin bends and the bus ascends on the steep slopes. I notice that the road is quite narrow on many stretches and that the road widening has recently started. A chance encounter with the young owner of a popular homestay in Raila (Kamtan village) meant that we ended up going till the last point where the bus goes.

He invited us for a quick round of chai at his homestay and we had a nice time chatting in the common space. If we had carried our backpacks with us, we might have actually ended up staying in Kamtan village; the view was surreal and the quaint village had a lovely aroma of a dense deodhar forest.

Anyhow, we started walking towards Dhaliara Kothi or Raila Twin Towers and came across a pair of local shepherds taking their flock of sheep and goat for grazing. The massive trees lent glorious views of the snowy peaks beyond as the sights were quite spectacular since Raila is located at a vantage point and I’m guessing should be at an altitude of about 2000-2200m.

Once we crossed the forest section and came closer to the main road from where the road diverged for the Twin Towers, the full force of the sun hit us and we had to eventually resort to taking breaks while walking. The distance seemed quite far and I came across a worker who confirmed that we were on the right path.

After about 40 odd minutes of walking, we had our first glimpse of the towers. Dhaliara Kothi is the ancient / traditional name for these towers and they looked quite imposing from a distance. We were quite excited about finally seeing these twin towers for real and quickly climbed the set of stairs to get closer. There were a number of small shrines near the towers and the entire area seemed like a sacred spot.

Both the towers had dizzying staircases but outsiders are forbidden to climb them like most religious places in Kullu Valley. There was a lone house in the vicinity and a lady informed us that one of the towers houses a temple and that it is only opened on special occasions. It reminded me of the Chehni Kothi and I also imagined an ancient treasure hidden in one of the towers!

The sun was quite harsh and after clicking a few photographs from various angles, we decided to descend from the stairs and find more details about a beautiful meadow in the vicinity – Bhatkanda. Kanda is the local term used to indicate a grassland located at a higher altitude than the valley and we were told that Bhatkanda is hardly 30 odd minutes from Dhaliara Kothi and that it is a must see since we are already in Raila.

We kept walking and crossed an in-construction homestay being built in the woods. They confirmed the path to Bhatkanda in the forest and even though we were hungry, we started our ascent to Bhatkanda meadow.

We were relieved to get out of the direct sunshine and walk in the shade of the forest under the deodhar trees. It was a mild and continuous ascent and we reached the small meadow at Bhatkanda at about 1 pm. The meadow itself wasn’t very green since it was peak summer and the monsoons hadn’t started yet.

Bhatkanda felt like a nice place with a few houses scattered in the surrounding areas, and a cute wooden cabin was also getting made (presumably as a homestay/guest house). There were a few locals around, cows and sheep grazing and funnily enough a tourist family was also there. It was nice to see Indian tourists choose these unknown spots for a short hike.

We roamed around the undulating hills for a bit, savoured the views and then when the sun started feeling too strong – I chose to lie down in the meadows. It was a blissful few minutes of sleep until a cow decided to head my way near the tap to drink some water. At this juncture, Jita had also returned from his small excursion and we decided to fill our water bottles and start on our way back.

The newly constructed homestay owner showed us the rooms; we were quite astonished with the excellent rooms and attached washroom. Accommodation standards across India have really gone up in the post-pandemic era and it seems like shoddy accommodation options are a thing of the past.

We were very hungry and he told us we could have ordered lunch before going to Bhatkanda and it would have been ready on our return. Anyhow, now that option didn’t exist and since we had seen multiple signboards for fancy cafés in Raila – we thought we could eat anywhere at some dhaba. Since it was only about 2 pm and we had been told that the return Raila to Sainj bus was only at 4 pm, we were in a confused state.

Our tentative and best case scenario was to get down at the bridge at Siund, catch a Shanshar bound bus and reach the GHNP Ropa Rest House and then catch a shared camper to Upper Neahi village. Mahi from Upper Neahi had told me that with the recently constructed road, there were a 1-2 campers plying locals everyday to Upper Neahi for some INR 50 per person.

A lady grazing her cows told us about a steep shortcut from the trail near Bhatkanda meadows that would take us directly down to Raila village. On our way up, we had spotted another temple with a massive tower in Raila that was close to the road and had decided that we would see it on our way back. Now with the steep shortcuts full of rudimentary stairs, that possibility was gone.

Apparently, Raila was some 5-6 kms by road and we managed to cover the distance in hardly 30 odd minutes with the shortcut path that also saved us from the sun. Once we got to Raila, the challenge was to find a working eatery but we quickly realised the fancy cafés are all closed and there is no small dhaba that exists.

The shortcut path also led us straight in the middle of Raila from where the road was a good 10 odd minutes walk. The sun was shining brightly in the absence of any sort of cloud cover and we were quite hungry and exhausted at this juncture. We somehow plodded on and sat in the shade after joining the road; hoping to hitch a ride in one of the vehicles heading towards Sainj. However, most vehicles were coming back to Raila after attending the Shanu Mela festivities from the previous day in Shanshar! The time was about 3 pm and we decided to walk on the road and wait for a ride so that we could make it back to Ropa Rest House in time before dark to catch the shared camper to Upper Neahi.

However, it seemed like a luckless day when we couldn’t get a ride even in an empty van. The Sainj to Raila bus went the other way and we figured that the bus would soon start back from Raila at 4 pm. It was then when we reached a bifurcation point; the road diverged to a treacherous looking cliff to villages like Pashi. There was a dhaba there with a lot of locals sitting and chatting around. In the absence of all other options, we had to opt for maggi which the lady owner mentioned she would cook with tomatoes and onions. It was perhaps my first maggi in over a year of living in Kullu Valley; the maggi was excellent with soupy taste and I thanked the aunty for making it well.

Finally, the bus to Sainj arrived. We took our seats and were dropped at the bridge at Siund at about 440 pm. We were lucky to instantly catch the last bus of the day to Shangarh – there was only standing space and we somehow made it to the Ropa Rest House. I met Mahi’s relative in the bus and she confirmed that there will be a camper leaving for Upper Neahi! We were ecstatic at this piece of information. At the rest house, we ran and took our bags – said our thanks and goodbyes to the staff and sat outside in the waiting shed for the camper to arrive.

We made it to Upper Neahi in the evening, much before dark. It was the sweet sleep of tired explorers!

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Shashur in the local language literally translates to – ‘in the blue pines’. I would come to know about the adage when I reached there; Shashur Monastery is indeed surrounded by a small forest of blue pine trees and is reachable by a 3 km uphill walk from Keylong – which is preferred by the locals. For folks travelling by car, there is also a 5 km long motorable road to reach Shashur Monastery.

It was afternoon and clouds had just started gathering in the sky, and since there was a road that led to Shashur Monastery – I was more or less confident (or rather, hopeful) of being able to hitch a ride. I began my day in Keylong and opted to head to Tandi Bridge and Beeling village in the morning after a quick breakfast at one of the eateries in the bazaar.

Also read : Othang Gompa – The Crown Jewel of Pattan Valley, Lahaul

Over the last 2-3 days, one thing had led to another and as I visited one monastery, I was being guided by the locals for exploring other monasteries in Lahaul. I climbed to visit the Yardong / Yordong Monastery in Beeling near the HRTC workshop close to the Tandi bridge but was mildly disappointed when the doors were closed and there was nobody to show me around the cave-sort of monastery. However, I felt a tad unlucky when I met a monk while climbing down who said that he had the key to open the doors.

Read : Othang Gompa – The Crown Jewel of Pattan Valley, Lahaul

Anyhow, I started walking back to Keylong and someone in Beeling village suggested that I take a quick look at the ‘Jabjes‘ in the fields. Jabjes are the holy footsteps of the lama embedded in rock and I was happily surprised to be shown a rock with a clear foot imprint. Since it was the month of July, we were roughly in the middle of the summer in Lahaul Valley and the fields were awash with potato blooms. I enjoyed clicking the surreal landscapes and thanked the gentleman for bringing me to the fields.

After a few minutes of excitement of clicking Lahaul Valley’s rich summer landscapes with Keylong in the background, I decided to resume my walk back to Keylong.

It was around 2 pm in the afternoon and I went to the room to rest for a while and perhaps eat something (can’t really remember). At about 3-30 in the afternoon, I was unsure of what I wanted to do and once I got back to the road I saw the signboard of Shashur Monastery directly in front of me! It seemed to be a cue; since Shashur Monastery was one of the prominent monasteries in Lahaul Valley and there was a motorable road (dirt road) that went all the way to the top. I had decided about visiting it on one of the days when I was in Keylong and not exploring the other monasteries.

I made sure of refilling my water bottle before beginning the hike and asked the passersby for the best directions to reach Shashur monastery. Some locals told me that even though the motorable road would lead me to Shashur Monastery, the distance would be about 5-6 kms while there was a shortcut that would take about 1.5 hours for the 3 km distance on foot.

I was keen on hearing more about the shortcut and they told me that the shortcut would be a sharp ascent and I would keep meeting the road after every few bends. The trail itself was well defined and I was told to find the next shortcut very close to where the previous shortcut had ended.

I started on the path and within a few minutes lost my way because I was unable to find the shortcut. Nevertheless I continued walking on the road till I came across the next shortcut and was able to follow the aforementioned trail. After covering some distance, the path duly came in the midst of blue pine trees.

The shortcuts were quite steep and sometimes had a water canal flowing past and it so happened that I slipped and ended up falling near one of the canals. Thankfully, only my jeans was soiled and the camera had been saved. I felt a little cold with the fall but thankfully Lahaul’s arid air meant that I would be dry in no time. I was hoping to get a ride in one of the cars headed to the monastery since I was always in vicinity of the road but funnily enough no car came and I continued walking along the uphill trail.

Read : Khangsar, Kwaring, Sarang, Kolong – Exploring Lahaul Valley

Like all other things in life, I began to enjoy the hike and the views as I climbed higher; the sun didn’t seem harsh anymore and the yellow roofed Shashur Monastery started peeping from among the blue pines. I crossed an ethereal looking patch of ‘sia’ (or wild roses) that clearly stood out with the tantalising pink blooms.

A sort of storm seemed to be brewing in the distance and the Chandra river (or was it Bhaga!) shined whenever a sliver of sunshine fell on it. The green fields lit up and it presented a sight as bucolic as it could be. I reached Shashur Monastery after walking through a large stretch among the juniper trees and had all but forgotten about my soiled jeans that was dirty but drying rapidly at that time.

There was some sort of construction work going on near the chorten outside the monastery and one of the labours from Bihar indicated to me the entrance to the main monastery and I was glad when a young lama offered to show me around the different structures.

There was a signboard placed right in front of the monastery noting that : Shashur Gompa was founded by Lama Deva Gyatsho of Zanskar in the 17th Century and belongs to the Drukpa Sect. He was a missionary of Nawang Namgyal, who was the king of Bhutan. There was a small gompa here at the same spot before the bigger monastery was established by Deva Gyatso. Deva Gyatso stayed at the monastery till his death.

Shashur Monastery is quite big with a number of rooms and has a number of valuable thangkas with one thangka over fifteen feet in length. There are also well-preserved wall paintings depicting all the 84 mahasiddhas of Buddhism. In the month of July, Cham (masked dances) are performed by the monks in the monastery and the festival is called Tsechu, which is the most popular Cham festival in Lahaul.

The lama was kind and interesting and we ended up chatting and he allowed me to go to the different parts of the monastery and also opened a number of doors that were locked. The weather had started worsening and I was glad when he offered tea. The extra time had enabled me to notice the intricate bells (dorje) and I was able to click a few pictures with the mountains in the background.

The carvings on the door of the monastery are intricate and a nice breeze started blowing as soon as we had finished the tea. I noticed that a number of threatening dark clouds had gathered in the horizon and was hoping that the rain would stay away, at least until I had made it back to Keylong.

One of the doors of Shashur Monastery was incredibly beautiful with a delightful colour pattern along-with Buddhist designs. The lama and I made conversations in the open air balcony that had a vantage view of both sides of the valley. If memory serves me right, the lama was from Bhutan and I was quite surprised to know that it is customary for all serving lamas at Shashur Monastery to be from Bhutan. I was ecstatic when the sun peeked out from among the clouds lending a glorious light to the proceedings. He told me to try and attend the masked dance festival Tsechu at Shashur Monastery someday.

Just when I had thought I would encounter no other visitors, a lady tourist came in a taxi / cab and since there was no harm in asking for a ride back, I did and to my astonishment the car sped with the local Lahauli driver even before I could blink. I had a good laugh about this with the young lama and he said that human beings on earth are not alike and on this note, I took his leave since I would take an hour to make the long trudge back to Keylong.

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I remember eating a meal of rajma chawal in Neuli because of the uncertainty about the road to Shangarh and even noticing that the road continued straight. However, like all things in life happen when they are supposed to be – the visit to Manu Rishi Temple in Shanshar only fructified when a special visit to Sainj Valley was planned and the stay was arranged at the Ropa Rest House before Neuli.

Penelope Chetwode in ‘Kulu : The End of the Habitable World’ writes : ‘Near the head of the Kullu Valley, 14 km from Sainj Village. The only five-tiered pagoda temple so far recorded in H.P. first noticed and photographed by H. Lee Shuttleworth in about 1918. All five of the receding roofs are tiled, whereas in most pagoda temples the top circular roof is of cedar wood. The pitch of the roofs is very steep and the large stone tiles rest on wooden planks which are kept in position by iron pins which protrude through both the tiles and the planks.

An open veranda runs round the garba griha with 12 square pillars in groups of three. They have scroll capitals with confronting bird panels beneath them, but more crudely carved than those at Nithar Dhana and Mandoli. Beautiful graba griha doorway with seven receding lintels and six ditto jambs. Writhing nags and many panels of deities including Durga wearing a crinoline. Well carved floral ceiling panels above main veranda outside garba griha doorway. The temple is dedicated to Manu Rishi, but the stone image slab in the best pahari tradition in the sanctuary appears to be of Shiva.’

We left at about 8 am from Dobhi and immediately got into a long-distance bus. It was the Bedi Travels Manali to McLeodganj bus and we asked for 2 tickets for Aut after confirming that the bus had no long stop in Kullu Bus Stand. The bus kept making random stops but we still made it to Aut just before 10 am. As soon as we got out of the bus, a sort of traffic jam had started building up in Aut. Jita was buying some mangoes and in the meanwhile I ended up asking for aloo paranthas for breakfast at the usual dhaba. It turned out to be a forgettable affair as the son of the owner wasn’t quite adept in the kitchen.

When a Sainj bound bus did not appear even after finishing breakfast, we walked briskly to the Aut bus stand (Yes, there is a bus stand in Aut just a short walk from the main road) where we were told that it was better to wait on the highway itself as the Kullu to Sainj bus was about to come. I had already spoken to the caretaker at the GHNP Ropa Rest House and he had confirmed the availability of a room. Once the bus came, we reached Sainj in quick time and in random conversations with the locals names of hitherto unknown scenic villages came up. It was quite hot in Sainj and there was no bus headed to Neuli. Our plan was to first put the bags in the rest house and then head to the Manu Rishi Temple in Shanshar.

I took the opportunity to ask around the bus stand in Sainj for timings of buses from Sainj to Shanshar and also from Sainj to Raila. I got conflicting answers and a small mafia sort of setting (taxi guys) seemed to be emerging. The time was past 12 noon and Jita spotted a tourist trying to book a taxi to Shangarh (in the absence of a conveniently timed bus); we stood on the road and the taxi guy asked us to pay INR 50 each to be dropped in front of the GHNP Ropa Rest House. We happily agreed and were content when a room was allotted to us at the rest house.

At first, we thought of quickly going back to the road to try and find a ride to Shanshar but a quick calculation suggested that we were better off having a proper lunch before leaving for Manu Rishi Temple. In the meanwhile, someone told us that there’s an annual Fair called ‘Shanu Mela’ to be celebrated later in the evening at Manu Rishi Temple! We were ecstatic with that piece of information and figured that there will be many locals headed to Shanshar to celebrate the festival. At the GHNP Ropa Rest House Canteen, the cooks confirmed that rajma chawal can be quickly made on order and that is exactly what we wanted.

The rajma chawal turned out to be legendary and the staff also served local onions in salad. We ate like hungry beasts and then stood on the main road with our daypacks, waiting for a ride to Shanshar. A few locals were chit-chatting outside the rest house gates and they told us that the next Sainj to Shanshar bus is scheduled at 2 pm. Like always, I preferred hitching a ride rather than get a seat in the bus and luck soon smiled on us and a pick-up camper stopped. It was only going a few kilometres but we didn’t mind and were pleased to get going. The weather had suddenly become cloudy and the heat had all but disappeared.

We were dropped past Neuli at a turn on the road to Shanshar where a road diverted for Niharni (base for the trek to Lapah). There was a small shed adjacent to the road where we confirmed with someone about both the roads. The road seemed to be newly tarred and a lady appeared from somewhere with her grazing goats and sheep who told us that there’s a lake on the road to Niharni (if we were wondering where to head). We walked on the road to Shanshar and were in constant awe of the greenery and wildflowers growing on the side of the road. It soon started drizzling and after crossing an uphill hairpin bend on the road, we found an empty tin shed for shelter in the rain.

It was a vantage point where we could see the vehicles coming from down and were able to hitch another ride in the open carrier of a pick-up camper that seemed to be a milk vehicle going by the number of milk cans in the back. This one turned out to be an eventful ride as we were also joined by school kids. The newly laid out road was the chief orchestrator in the fun with the surreal landscape of the green Shanshar Valley getting even more pronounced in the rain.

The camper guy seemed to be high and would increase the speed as soon as he saw other people on the road (many young guys and girls were dressed in their finest and heading to the Shanu mela). We had to cling to the iron bars with the numerous hairpin bends and the adrenaline rush with the local kids made us shriek in delight at the speed! It was a continuous steady drizzle and since everyone was heading to the Shanu Mela, we were dropped at the exact point near Manu Rishi Temple. The school kids were quite excited in showing us the first sight of the five-tier pagoda style temple from one of the hairpin bends.

The drizzle had abated for a bit and it was a brief but slippery climb to reach the Manu Rishi Temple. The Shanu Mela Annual Fair preparations were in full swing and a handful of shops were being set up. There were two stalls selling knick-knacks which mostly seemed to be cheap plastic products while the food stall that was setup in a cemented structure had the maximum popularity. There were four deities with their palanquins in a space for devtas and the Manu Rishi Temple stood tall on the edge of a cliff. Just as we were about to start composing the frames for dslr photography, it started raining.

We waited for a while under a tree in the temple courtyard hoping that the rain would stop and that the weather would reveal blue skies and the mountains. In the meantime, a knowledgeable local also told us the names of the four deities. They were : Mata Shatrupa Shanshar Kothi (Gaon Mahel Patni), Manu Rishi Shanshar, Kasu Narain Banaugi, Jagthamb Bagishadi. Once the rain relented for a bit, mist was floating around the valley and we took the opportunity to click a few photographs from different angles. We even climbed a bit higher up from a staircase that led to a vantage point of the deities and the temple with an ethereal light in the background.

There were all sorts of locals gathering in the small meadow of the Manu Rishi Temple for attending the Shanu Mela Fair. Young kids ran and played, and even old men and women from the entire valley could be seen greeting each other. The fair was also an opportunity for the youth to mingle and we could see some shy glances being exchanged!

As the rain got heavier, we had to put our cameras back in the bags and hope that we had got the photographs that we wanted! The aroma of freshly fried hot pakoras was tantalising and we ended up relishing the crunchy ones for 10 Rupees each. After some time the rain relented and as the clock struck 4 pm, we were expectant of the local folk dances and the procession of the deities. However, someone told us that the time for the festivities is slated for the evening and that prompted us to have a quick look at the temple and then try and head to the ancient towers called Talyara Kothi.

We were told that the steep stairs served as a shortcut to get to the road from where Talyara Kothi was around 30 minutes walk. I was hopeful of finding a ride and therefore we chose to get to the main road and start the walk. Within no time, we got a ride in a truck but that only dropped us about 1 km ahead. Some school-kids indicated the way to a shortcut and we ended up reaching a different old stone structure where the inhabitants showed us the twin towers called Raghunath Kot of the Talyara Kothi from afar. One of the towers had received a fresh coat of paint and was refurbished.

As it had started drizzling again, we had began to think about our plan for return and realised in the absence of a bus service, we better leave before it gets dark.

We started on our walk back to Manu Rishi Temple and decided that if the festivities had begun, we would take a quick look and then start our journey back to the Ropa Rest House. At about 5 pm, we didn’t hear the sound of trumpets and noticed that the crowd had started swelling going by the number of cars parked on the road and locals arriving by the bus load. Someone gave the information that the performers have not yet arrived and are late resulting in the delay.

The distance from Manu Rishi Temple in Shanshar to the Ropa Rest House was about 8 kms and since everyone in the valley was headed to the mela, there was a slim chance of finding a ride on our return. A number of well dressed locals were curious why we were returning when the real fun of the fair was just about to start! One of the ladies informed about a recent homestay in Shanshar and that we could stay there if we wanted. I was aware of one Sapna Homestay in Bagishadi village but that was much farther away and it was easier to stay at the Ropa Rest House and make day visits to Shanshar and Raila.

We thoroughly enjoyed the walk as it gave us a chance to really enjoy the landscapes of the lush green Shanshar Valley and also because we were able to see numerous tiny villages scattered in the distance. The walk also made us more aware of the fact that Shanshar was used to denote the entire valley. We ended up hitching a ride that dropped us a few kilometres. After the first vehicle dropped us, we immediately got another ride that dropped us in Neuli. The rest of the 2 odd km distance from Neuli to Ropa Rest House was covered on foot. On the way, we stopped at the Shangarh cut to chat with the wine shop guys and noticed a number of signboards advertising stays and cafés in Shangarh!

All in all, Shanshar Valley turned out to be much better than we expected and I am already thinking it could be the next hit offbeat destination in the evergreen Kullu Valley.

How to reach Manu Rishi Temple, Shanshar?

Buses run from Sainj to Shanshar, roughly after 1-2 pm in the afternoon and there are multiple buses. These buses make a return journey from Shanshar to Sainj only next morning. So, its better to make plans for a stay if you are travelling by bus as it is near impossible to make a day trip due to the bus timings.

Homestays in Shanshar

A few homestays have come up in the valley and as tourism grows with the recently tarred road, you should be easily able to find a homestay in Shanshar Valley in the coming times.

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