shubhammansingka – The Bum Who Travels https://travelshoebum.com Experiencing Travel like a Local Tue, 25 Mar 2025 03:24:23 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://s0.wp.com/i/webclip.png shubhammansingka – The Bum Who Travels https://travelshoebum.com 32 32 81598701 Alaska on a shoestring: How to experience the Last Frontier without breaking the bank https://travelshoebum.com/2025/03/25/alaska-on-a-shoestring-how-to-experience-the-last-frontier-without-breaking-the-bank/ https://travelshoebum.com/2025/03/25/alaska-on-a-shoestring-how-to-experience-the-last-frontier-without-breaking-the-bank/#respond Tue, 25 Mar 2025 03:24:23 +0000 https://travelshoebum.com/?p=36342

While you may think that a cruise to Alaska is beyond your reach, there are a number of ways to experience the wonders of the amazing Last Frontier state, without breaking the bank.

One of the most economical ways to explore Alaska is by a cruise where there is no need to go out for every meal or rent a car to view the scenic landscapes and incredible wildlife. All this can be experienced by a cruise on a budget.

Moreover, cruises are fast gaining in popularity and there is no better time than now to book your dream vacation, especially since an affordable cruise to a beloved destination like Alaska is not easy to find. So read on for the best option on how to cruise to Alaska on the cheap.

Some main cruise lines current deals feature upto 600 USD onboard credit, 60% off the second guest and a kids sail free deal several time a year. This allows children 12 and younger to cruise free.

This deal typically applies if they are third guests or beyond, staying in the same cabin with the paying guests. These deals do no apply during school breaks and are for sailings of four or more nights.

What is an Alaskan cruise like?

One-way sailing to Alaska on major cruise lines feature cruising along the Inside Passage and Hubbard Glacier.

This also includes stops at Icy Strait Point, Juneau, Sitka and Skagway where you can consider booking a train ride through White Pass to get a glimpse of the state’s wilderness.

The round-trip voyage if you are cruising from Seattle will drop anchor at Sitka, Skagway and Juneau in Alaska as well as a late afternoon halt at the Inner Harbor in Victoria, British Columbia.

Here you can spend your time visiting the Royal British Columbia Museum and the Parliament Building as well as the Victoria Bug Zoo for a family-friendly activity.

You will then have two days at sea where you can relax and enjoy all the onboard amenities and activities on the ship like skydiving simulators and live performances by aerial entertainers.

How to go on an affordable cruise to Alaska in 2025-2026

Here are some things you should know before booking your next Alaska cruise vacation on a budget:

  • Choose an inside cabin, rather than a balcony
  • A cruise package is not a necessity as all meals are included in the basic cruise fare
  • Budget for at least one epic shore excursion only
  • Check flight options to your embarkation port well in advance
  • Stay at a hostel before and after the cruise
  • Cruise early or late in the season either in May or September
  • Opt for an Alaska repositioning cruise
  • Mainstream cruise lines offer more affordable options against luxury lines

After taking into consideration all above factors, we can safely say that you can go on a 7 day cruise to Alaska for as low as $1300 per person on twin share, depending on the cruise line, type of cabin and time of the year.

That said, while the actual price can differ greatly from the ticket price, the value of the experience far outweighs the costs.

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A Complete Guide to Mtskheta – Day Trip from Tbilisi https://travelshoebum.com/2025/03/04/a-complete-guide-to-mtskheta-day-trip-from-tbilisi/ https://travelshoebum.com/2025/03/04/a-complete-guide-to-mtskheta-day-trip-from-tbilisi/#comments Tue, 04 Mar 2025 17:08:52 +0000 https://travelshoebum.com/?p=35978 On our recent summer trip to Georgia, we landed in Tbilisi and stayed for a couple of days to get acquainted with the capital city. We had kept five more days to spend in Tbilisi in the last leg of our journey before flying back to India. It felt only natural to start our sojourn by visiting the UNESCO World Heritage – 4th Century BC town; Mtskheta at the earliest. Mtskheta was the ancient capital of Georgia and can lay claim to be the cultural heartbeat of the country. In 2014, the head of Georgian Orthodox Church conferred Mtskheta with the title of ‘Holy City’.

First look of Svetitskhoveli Cathedral after getting down from the marshrutka in Mtskheta

Marshrutka / Minibus from Tbilisi to Mtskheta and back

The distance between Tbilisi and Mtskheta is hardly 20-25 kms and takes less than an hour even with Tbilisi’s busy traffic. There are no buses that ply between Tbilisi and Mtskheta and even though the official Georgian train website shows that passenger trains stop in Mtskheta, be advised that Mtskheta railway station is quite far (about 2 kms) from the town itself and train schedules are sporadic making it an unwise choice to try and visit Mtskheta by train from Tbilisi. Mtskheta lies in the historical Mtskheta-Mtianeti region.

Regular marshrutkas (minibuses) ply between Didube to Mtskheta and are the easiest way to reach Mtskheta from Tbilisi. These marshrutkas are usually 16-20 seater Mercedes Sprinter vehicles and run every 30 odd minutes starting from 7 am from Didube station while the last marshrutka for Mtskheta departs from Didube at 8 pm (or sometimes even later in the summer). We took less than 30 minutes to cover the 18 km distance from Didube to Mtskheta. We were not sure if the driver would take us into town so we decided to get down as soon as we saw the walk-only pedestrian street! Later, we came to know that the last stop in Mtskheta is the parking spot at the end of the town quite close to Old Mtskheta.

Where exactly to take the marshrutka at Didube?

We had booked a small family run hotel quite close to Samgori / Isani metro station for two nights as our flight landed in Tbilisi at the uncomfortable hour after midnight. From Isani metro station, it was quite easy to figure the Tbilisi metro and reach Didube station where a few taxi drivers offered us a ‘cheap’ ride to Mtskheta for 20 Georgian Lari (GEL). We politely declined their (expensive) offer and promptly found the Mtskheta marshrutka ticket counter. After confirming the 2 GEL per person one way ticket price with locals who were also waiting for the marshrutka for Mtskheta, we paid and got our paper tickets. It is important to remember that the last marshrutka from Mtskheta to Tbilisi (Didube) runs at around 8-830 pm and is likely to be full so it is best to time your return to Tbilisi by daylight to avoid any unforeseen adventure!

In principle, you can hire a taxi for Mtskheta anywhere in Tbilisi or even use a bolt or maxim taxi (internet app-based taxis) but the prices are likely to be standard in Didube. If you are a group of four, then your best bet is to get early to Didube and negotiate a good price with a taxi driver to take you to Mtskheta and also include the other sights of interest like the Shio-Mgvime monastery and Zedazeni monastery.

Introduction to Mtskheta

Mtskheta is the former capital of Georgia and an ancient city that was established between the 1st and 5th Century BC. It is located at a enviable point of the confluence of Mtkvari (Kura river) and Aragvi rivers and jaw-dropping views of the confluence can be seen from Jvari Monastery. Mtskheta has a number of monuments included in the UNESCO World Heritage, that was bestowed in the year 1994. The old Mtskheta town around the centrally located Svetitskhoveli cathedral is a bucolic sight with cobblestone streets and green mountains in the backdrop. Mtskheta’s importance of being steeped in Georgian culture is evident in the fact that it is a favourite place for Georgians to get married and for pre-wedding photoshoots.

This travel guide to Mtskheta includes all that you need to know about visiting Mtskheta on a day trip from Tbilisi. It includes details on – how to reach Mtskheta and transport options from Tbilisi, must visit attractions in Mtskheta, time taken for exploring, food, wine tasting, shopping, and timing your return back to Tbilisi.

History of Mtskheta

Mtskheta is one of Georgia’s oldest towns and was the capital of the Kingdom of Kartli in East Georgia from the 3rd Century BC till the 6th Century AD when the capital was shifted to Tbilisi after the discovery of the sulphur springs in Abanotubani. Mtskheta gained importance as it lies at a strategic location; at the intersection of trade routes from Byzantium, Syria, Roman Empire, Silk Road that resulted in a rich commercial exchange with the mingling of different cultures. Mtskheta remains the spiritual and religious centre of Georgia since Mtskheta is where Christianity was first embraced as Georgia’s official religion in the year 337 AD.

Accorded the UNESCO World Heritage Site status, the Historical Monuments of Mtskheta include Jvari Monastery, Svetitskhoveli Cathedral and Samtavro’s Convent. These three medieval religious establishments are home to precious relics of Christianity; painted frescoes and burial sites with graves of monarchs and royalty from the times when Georgia was a Kingdom. History lovers are in for a treat as the region around Mtskheta is rich in Old Georgian architecture and is dotted with churches, caves, archaeological sites, ancient chapels, palaces and forts.

Svetitskhoveli Cathedral

Originally built in the 4th-5th Century AD, Svetitskhoveli Cathedral is a stunning sight and is likely to be your lasting memory of Mtskheta. The present structure dates to the 11th Century AD and the Orthodox cathedral complex exudes a calm and spiritual vibe with the greenery amidst the mountain view. It is a perfect example of the medieval architecture of the Caucasus. As you enter the spacious cathedral complex from the street, you can see a number of women selling fresh flowers. It was a weekday when we visited and found it quite amusing to come across a number of weddings and see newlyweds getting clicked in the green lawns with the cathedral. I can only imagine the scene of wedding parties on weekends! Although it can get pretty crowded inside Svetitskhoveli cathedral, take your time to gaze at the frescoes and carvings.

A number of Georgia’s most important monarchs are buried at Svetitskhoveli Cathedral, including King Vakhtang Gorgasali, the founder of Tbilisi. Qvevri pots (for winemaking) can be seen scattered in the monastery complex and also don’t miss the beautiful bell tower built in a different corner of the entrance. Candles and souvenirs can be bought at the monastery shop located on the right after entering. There are scarfs and skirts available at the entrance if you are inappropriately dressed for entering the church.

Jvari Monastery

Also called the Holy Cross Monastery of Jvari; Jvari Monastery is one of the oldest monasteries in Georgia (by some accounts, the holy wooden cross was erected here in the 5th Century). According to legend – in the early 4th century, St. Nino, a female Christian preacher erected a large wooden cross on this site where Jvari Monastery was built later. The distance between Mtskheta and Jvari Monastery is 12 kms and round-trip taxis are easily available in Mtskheta for about 20 GEL. The 6th Century church in Jvari Monastery is located on top of a mountain and is the most sacred and revered church in entire Georgia. The chief pull of Jvari Monastery is the bird’s eye view of entire Mtskheta old town overlooking the confluence of the Aragvi and Mtkvari rivers.

While the exterior of Jvari Monastery is quite rustic and simple; the symmetric building is built in what can be called old Georgian architecture. It is perched on a hilltop and hiking to Jvari Monastery is possible via a trail from the park in Mtskheta; but not recommended unless you have an entire day out. If you have organised a taxi from Tbilisi, it may be a good idea to visit Jvari Monastery in the end so that you can enjoy the incredible view of Mtskheta town with Svetitskhoveli Cathedral in the centre during sunset time! The sacred St. Nino’s spring locally revered to be a healing water source is a 15 minute hike from Jvari monastery.

Samtavro’s Convent

We had not planned our day in Mtskheta and wandered with an explorer’s air to find ourselves right in front of the Samtavro’s Convent. Samtavro’s Convent is a pleasant ten minute walk from main Mtskheta town. The monastery complex is set among gardens and has a relaxed, open vibe since it is relatively less crowded than the Svetitskhoveli Cathedral. The church at Samtavro’s Convent was originally established in the 4th century and has been restored a number of times. The present day building of the main church was built in the early 11th century. Samtavro’s convent houses the grave of King Mirian III – the king of Iberia (Kartli kingdom) who established Christianity as the official religion in Georgia.

We drank and filled our water bottle from the spring water where the locals were also quenching their thirst. There was also a small chapel – St. Nino Chapel (Tsminda Nino) which is an active chapel with frescoes and a priest inside. While walking around the monastery grounds, take notice of the bell tower as well. On the other side of the entrance is the church shop where visitors can buy candles and souvenirs. While going back, we noticed old men and women asking for alms from visitors while some others were selling some dried herbs(?)

Samtavro Necropolis

The ancient cemetery of Mtskheta; Samtavro Necropolis is located just 500m away or a 5 minute walk from Samtavro’s Convent and is the most peaceful stroll in Mtskheta. This burial ground has been in use since the 3rd Century BC and is steeped in history. It also served as the burial place for the royal family. The Samtavro Necropolis or mausoleum is a lesser visited monument and can be called an offbeat attraction in Mtskheta.

Antioch Church

Antioch Church is a 4th-5th Century church built on the banks of the Aragvi river just before its confluence with Kura river. To reach here, take a walk in the residential by-lanes in Mtskheta old town and turn right for the riverside. There are hardly any visitors to be seen at the relatively austere-sized Antioch Church (also called St. Stephen’s Church). The church complex is pleasing with the greenery especially after seeing the crowds on the tourist trail in Mtskheta. Enjoy the sweeping view of Jvari Monastery and savour the blissful breeze of the river. Do not miss the colourful frescoes in the interior of Antioch Church. Due to lesser popularity of this attraction, I can denote the Antioch Church to be an offbeat place to visit in Mtskheta.

Shio-Mgvime Monastery

The 6th Century Shio-Mgvime monastery is set into a rugged hillside and lies at a distance of 12 kms from Mtskheta. Caves used by monks for meditation can be seen all over the cliff face of the hillside. There is no marshrutka or shared transport to visit the Shio-Mgvime monastery from Mtskheta or Tbilisi, hence it is best to discuss and finalise a taxi with other tourists for visiting Jvari Monastery and Shio-Mgvime to make it economical. Take some time to roam around the scenic monastery complex (accommodating about 2000 monks at one time) to see beautiful gardens housing two churches. The interiors of the bigger church have perhaps the most well preserved frescoes in Mtskheta. The smaller church is called the Shio Cemetery Church; in honour of the monk Shio who founded this site. The church shop sells excellent quality of honey and beeswax candles made on site!

Exploring Mtskheta on Foot : Heritage Walk in Mtskheta

Rather than making a checklist, the joy of travel lies in the unplanned and serendipitous encounters. The quiet by-lanes of this historical old town of Mtskheta are apt to check the rich architectural style of Georgian houses with the courtyards shaded with grape vines, elaborately carved wooden balconies and the greenery. We were enamoured with the heritage houses sporting a faint red of autumn in the trees, vintage cars, art nouveau signboards and decided that Mtskheta is worth staying for a couple of nights (at least) if we come to Georgia again.

Among other places to see in Mtskheta; Bebri Tsikhe (abandoned fortress on a hillock) easily reached by a 20-30 minute walk from Mtskheta, Zedazeni Monastery, the colourful mosaic painting outside the Mtskheta Archaeological Museum (not open); St. Barbara Church, in a different direction – Armaziskhevi Archaeological Site, Armazi Tsikhe (fortress), Armazi Monastery and a few other churches around Mtskheta.

Souvenir Shopping in Mtskheta

There are pedestrian streets (ocassionally used by cars) around Svetitskhoveli Cathedral square where vendors set up market stalls and souvenir shops. Tourists can purchase churchkela, carpets, quirky fridge magnets, spices, fresh juice, wine ice-cream in summer and in winter, mulled wine. Also on offer are wine, chacha (grape liquor), souvenirs like scarfs, Georgian caps and hats, handmade dolls, ceramics and paintings. Among unique souvenirs on sale are kantsi – traditional Georgian drinking vessel (now mass-produced), tklapi (fruit snack), and hand-painted fridge magnets.

This market in Mtskheta is a very touristy area so it is good to be aware that prices quoted can often be very high. It may be a good idea to bargain subtly and see if the seller offers a better price. After having gone around the other parts of Georgia over a good 16 days, we realised some souvenir sellers were offering really good deals like 1+1 on fridge magnets for 2 GEL. Although I don’t recommend buying mass produced souvenirs; but I can understand if someone wants to buy, then the market in Mtskheta may turn out to be a good choice. We found the prices in Tbilisi for the same stuff are much higher.

Wine Tasting in Mtskheta

Winery Khareba located right on the opposite side of the entrance of Svetitskhoveli Cathedral. The wine tasting is free as long as you buy a bottle of wine. Prices are fixed (unlike some other places in Mtskheta) at Winery Khareba and the staff is quite helpful in suggesting which wine to buy.

Handy Tips :

Since Mtskheta is primarily a religious destination for locals, dress and behave appropriately.

Carry a water bottle. Time your visit to the washroom/toilets when you go to a restaurant. Try to visit Mtskheta on a Sunday morning while mass is being held, and savour the authentic cultural experience of polyphonic singing very unique to Georgia.

Festivals in Mtskheta

14th October Svetitskhovloba Festival.

How to Pronounce Mtskheta?

Georgian spellings and pronunciations can be mind jangling and none more so than ‘Mtskheta’. This tongue twister is actually pretty easy to pronounce. The locals seem to ignore the first two letters ‘Mt’ and rapidly say ‘skheta’ with a stress on the h. For us, it took a while getting used to since it was our first day in the country. Thankfully, we weren’t caught on the wrong foot and learnt to pronounce Mtskheta like the Georgians do before committing a faux pas!

How to go from Tbilisi to Mtskheta?

Metro to Didube station. After reaching Didube station, you have to go through a market to get to the other side to reach the exact point for the Mtskheta marshrutka / minibus and the ticket window. Buy the tickets for 2 Lari per person. Shared taxis also ply about 5 GEL per person.

From Mtskheta to Tbilisi : Marshrutka stop in Mtskheta to get back to Didube is on the main road while coming back from Samtavro’s Convent.


Staying in Mtskheta

Mtskheta has an old world charm and warrants much more than just a day visit. We have already decided we will spend a couple of nights in one of the charming homestays of Mtskheta whenever we return to Georgia.

Where to eat in Mtskheta?

There is a row of restaurants in front of the Svetitskhoveli Cathedral. We are a khachapuri and enjoyed fresh tap beer at one of those. Ornament Express was our choice but they had run out of food due to a party that day! Other recommended restaurants and cafés in Mtskheta are – Restaurant Check-in Garden, Café Tatin, Riverside Baginati, Tsiskvili. Favourite eateries of Tbilisi locals are on the way to Mtskheta after the diversion from the main road. I spotted a big crowd from the marshrutka both while coming and going. A few locals also got down on the way and while coming back our marshrutka was full but they took passengers for standing space.

Best time to Visit Mtskheta?

Mtskheta is accessible throughout the year. Summers are warm while a visit in peak winter might be a chance to see Mtskheta in snow!

Think I missed something in this Mtskheta Guide? Suggestions are welcome.

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Top tips for first-time Corfu visitors from experienced travellers https://travelshoebum.com/2025/01/01/top-tips-for-first-time-corfu-visitors-from-experienced-travellers/ https://travelshoebum.com/2025/01/01/top-tips-for-first-time-corfu-visitors-from-experienced-travellers/#respond Wed, 01 Jan 2025 04:48:42 +0000 https://travelshoebum.com/?p=35900 Top tips for first-time Corfu visitors from experienced travellers

If you plan on visiting the magnificent island of Corfu soon, this guide might be just what you need. We have gathered real-life experiences and tips from travellers who have been to Corfu before. They will help you plan and have a perfect little getaway or a fulfilling holiday experience from A to Z.

First off – book in advance

Corfu is slowly but surely gaining traction from travellers coming to this island from other European countries and even other continents. This is why, especially before the high season, you should book your accommodation and (or) services in advance. For example, Corfu Villas are just as if not more luxurious than their counterparts in other Mediterranean destinations. This is why they can get booked at least 6-8 weeks before the arrival date. 

If you want to visit in 2-3 months, get to booking right away and don’t let the best spots and the best deals slip through your fingers!

Rent a car or a scooter

Corfu is both large and diverse enough to offer value for those who choose to explore it by car or scooter. You can find dozens of rental points scattered across the island, not just by the airport. Seemingly every village has a handful of them, where both local entrepreneurs and internationally recognised companies offer transport for rent.

Just remember that compared to most of Europe, the roads are narrow(er), and there are plenty of challenges whenever you leave the main roads. With that being said, Paleokastritsa, Sidari’s Canal d’Amour, and other hot destinations are otherwise hard to reach, so driving yourself around is smart and practical.

Thirdly – local taverns make a mean meal and are also affordable

Corfu’s cuisine and local flavours are a bit different from that of mainland Greece. It has both Greek and Venetian influences – a result of the island’s history, offering every visitor something unique, not found elsewhere. 

Besides the fan-favourite souvlaki or gyros, you come to expect, sofrito, pastitsada, and bourdeto are the most unique local choices worth trying. There are tens of taverns around towns and in smaller villages where you can sit down for lunch, snack and(or) dinner. For maximum immersion – taste local wine alongside lunch or have a shot of ouzo!

Finally – prepare for crowds in the high season

As mentioned above, Corfu is getting more popular by the day. If you were to look at the numbers, the tourist count has doubled over the past decade, meaning that during the high season, crowds are to be expected. You will need to book and plan accommodation, transport, and attraction visits in advance so as not to miss out. 

If you decide to stay at the hotel, the high season can be a bit annoying. With the number of sun loungers limited, a good spot to relax after breakfast isn’t guaranteed. This is why a villa might be a better option for top-tier relaxation if you can allow yourself to do that!

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Expert Tips For Documenting Your Travel Journaling & Photography https://travelshoebum.com/2024/12/24/expert-tips-for-documenting-your-travel-journaling-photography/ https://travelshoebum.com/2024/12/24/expert-tips-for-documenting-your-travel-journaling-photography/#comments Tue, 24 Dec 2024 05:48:13 +0000 https://travelshoebum.com/?p=35887 Expert Tips For Documenting Your Travel Journaling & Photography

There’s an indefatigable excitement about discovering new places, exploring new sights, sounds and tastes, and venturing to destinations unknown. Whether it’s trekking through a forest or meandering through a heaving city, that sense of adventure is why so many of us love to travel. 

And when you make it home, after the glimmer of the post-holiday glow has faded, it makes sense to document your experiences through journals and photography. But what’s a good way to go about doing so, so you can capture as many memories as possible in the most interesting way?

Today, we’ll be sharing our top expert tips for travel journaling and photography. Continue reading to learn how you can master the art of travel journaling and photography to document your adventures with ease.

Create A Photo Book

Scrapbooks are popular methods of documenting your travel photography, and make for excellent coffee table additions. Gather your favourite shots and organise them chronologically or thematically. Then, once you’ve chosen the layout and design of your book, convert to PDF – the ideal format for printing images. This gives you the option to insert text, captions and other graphics to bring your scrapbook to life. Collecting all your images into a PDF file means you can structure the layout as you intend it to look in the book, and ensure that formatting stays the same when you send it off to photo book printing services. 

You’ll end up with a sleek-looking, visual journal of all the places you’ve visited, to flick through and get lost in nostalgia and memory as you remember the wonderful trips you’ve had.

Invest In A Good Quality Camera

If you’re passionate about photography, making the investment in a camera is worth it, rather than always relying on your smartphone. A mobile device can be great for capturing moments on the fly, but a top quality, digital SLR camera can  document your visits to those weird, wonderful and exotic places that you’ll visit in crystal-clear quality. 

You may also want to consider a range of lenses in order to capture moments from different perspectives and angles, depending on your preference and style of photography. Alternatively, consider bringing a film or disposable camera on your adventures. Available for all different budgets, these cameras will provide more whimsical pictures that capture the essence of your time away.

Get Into The Habit Of Journaling Every Day 

When it comes to your written journal, you should get into the habit of journaling each night that you’re away. That way, the day’s events will be fresh in your mind, and you can accurately capture the experiences that you’ve had each day of your sojourns. It doesn’t have to be long, just a few paragraphs, as this will quickly add up to a comprehensive travel journal. Writing about your experiences (and capturing them visually) can help you process the various emotions, thoughts, and feelings associated with your travels, and gain insights into yourself and your place in the world.

If you’re on the move for an extended period of time, consider using prompts to give yourself something novel to think about. For example, write about what you saw displayed at the local market, the cultural fashion trends, or the interesting strangers you’ve met. You’ll end up with a rich journal filled with a diverse collection of thoughts. 

Write About The Not-So-Terrific Travels

Travelling can’t always be fun. It can be gruelling and draining and make you homesick, especially if you travel for longer periods. While you may be tempted to omit the negatives from your journal, you should make a point to include them. 

If you’re robbed, ripped off, get lost, or have a negative experience somewhere, document it. It will help you process the complex emotions, reflect on what you learned from the situation, and avoid over-romanticising your trip for those moments when you’re just wishing you could be back there.

Learn How To Edit Photos

It may be worth learning some basic Photoshop skills to edit your travel photos. Even if it’s some simple touch-ups like adjusting light levels, removing shadows, or highlighting key people, you can make your travel photos pop. 

You can watch YouTube tutorials on how to use Photoshop or even take a short course aimed at introducing you to the basics if you’re thinking of turning your hobby for photography into an amateur or professional money-making side hustle. Alternatively, use apps like Adobe Express to experiment casually with editing capabilities and AI suggestions, like removing image backgrounds or adding animation to your pictures. If you’re planning to formulate a digital scrapbook for your photo story, small graphics can make the pages come alive.

Focus On Documenting Local Cuisine

A significant part of any travel experience is sampling different cuisines, and food is often at the heart of any culture. Make sure to document your culinary adventures by taking plenty of snaps of the new, interesting dishes you’re being served, from street markets to luxury restaurants.

Alongside that, write about your feelings and sensations of the tastes and smells as you try new dishes and beverages. This will broaden your writing and provide an interesting prompt to think about the traditional ways of preparing, cooking and sharing food in the place you’re visiting. Take photos of national dishes, and note the cultural customs surrounding what you’re eating, such as how the food is served, where you’re eating, and any culinary rules or superstitions.

Travel Journaling & Photography: In Summary

Travelling can be a transformative personal experience full of soul-searching and human connection, and a travel journal can serve as an excellent tool for self-reflection. This helpful article has shared our expert tips for documenting your travel journaling and photography, in order to allow you to create key souvenirs from your time spent abroad. 

Be sure to follow these tips to document your experiences in rich and stimulating ways, both as you record them in the moment, and when you reflect on them in years to come.

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Top 5 Culinary Spots in Bali https://travelshoebum.com/2024/12/22/top-5-culinary-spots-in-bali/ https://travelshoebum.com/2024/12/22/top-5-culinary-spots-in-bali/#respond Sun, 22 Dec 2024 11:29:39 +0000 https://travelshoebum.com/?p=35854 Top 5 Culinary Spots in Bali

Bali is a heaven for foodies. Fresh ingredients and traditional spices of Indonesia bring out a balanced sweet, spicy, and savory taste. You have the option of a variety of flavors that come straight from Balinese to international dishes. As you venture, don’t forget to immerse yourself in this rich culinary culture and taste some authentic Balinese food. Here is the list :

1. Pork Ribs at Atlas Beach Club Canggu

  • Location: Jl. Pantai Berawa No.88, Canggu
  • Website: Atlas Beach Club
  • Contact: +62 361 9345910
  • Price Range: Rp260,000 (approx. $16.50)

Atlas Beach Club, located on the beautiful shores of Bali, is known for its lively environment, beachfront scenery, and the signature dish that stands out the most: pork ribs. Prepared tender to fall-off-the-bone perfection and extravagantly topped with a thick, full-bodied sauce, the ribs at this place are one of the top selections for foodies. With live music or simply taking it easy on the beach, this is one great place to dine.

2. Sate Babi at Warung Babi Guling Pak Malen

Photo: bali dot com

  • Location: Jl. Sunset Road No.554, Seminyak
  • Contact: +62 361 8475115
  • Price Range: Rp50,000 – Rp80,000 (approx. $3.20 – $5.10)

A favorite among the masses, Sate Babi (pork satay) is one of those dishes that any food adventurer must try when exploring the gorgeous island. Warung Babi Guling Pak Malen makes it here to perfection. The smoky taste of the pork skewer is marinated with many creamy Balinese spices, including turmeric and coriander, and lemongrass, then charcoal-grilled. Combining this with their signature rice set that includes steamed rice, crispy pork skin, sambal (spicy chilli relish), and vegetables for a complete meal. This is ideal for travellers who prefer an authentic culinary experience.

3. Bebek Betutu at Bumbu Bali

Photo: artcafebumbubali

  • Location: Jl. Pratama No.74, Nusa Dua
  • Contact: +62 361 774502
  • Price Range: Rp150,000 – Rp200,000 (approx. $9.60 – $12.80)

Bebek Betutu is one of the most popular dishes served at Bumbu Bali. This is a traditional duck reflecting the island’s richness in culinary traditions, which involves carefully marinated duck, cooked in a mixture of spices including; turmeric, ginger, galangal, garlic, and lemongrass, and then covered with banana leaves, steamed until it becomes soft and falls off the bone. It is served beside steamed rice and spicy sambal, combined with fresh vegetables that complete the overall heritage of Balinese cuisine to the core. The ambiance is a warm invitation, and it supports the experience of this delicious dish.

4. Ayam Betutu at Warung Ayam Betutu Men Tempeh

Photo: https://www.tripadvisor.com.au/Restaurant_Review-g1592983-d4799827-Reviews-Ayam_Betutu_Men_Tempeh-Gilimanuk_Bali.html 

  • Location: Jl. Raya Gilimanuk, Ubud
  • Contact: +62 361 732398
  • Price Range: Rp70,000 – Rp100,000 (approx. $4.50 – $6.40)

Warung Ayam Betutu Men Tempeh, located in Ubud, serves one of the best Ayam Betutu in Bali. The dish is complimented with full flavor and a traditional method of cooking. Long and slow-cooked chicken gradually develops flavors from turmeric, shallots, garlic, and chillies – indeed, it is a flavorful dish. This local favorite is often served with complimentary steamed rice, fresh vegetables, and spicy sambal. Great for people exploring the cultural hub of Ubud, and looking for authentic food.

5. Seafood at Jimbaran Bay

Photo: jimbaranbayrestaurant

  • Location: Kedonganan Beach, Jimbaran
  • Contact: Varies by restaurant (check website for details)
  • Price Range: Rp200,000 – Rp500,000 (approx. $12.80 – $32.00)

Jimbaran Bay is a seafood paradise with the quintessential Bali dining experience. You may choose your preferred fresh seafood, including fish, prawns, lobsters, squid, or even clams, and have them barbecued to perfection or cooked in the traditional Balinese manner, which means with sambal and local spices. Eating sitting up straight on the sand, with the starry night sky above us and the waves behind us is a memorable dining experience.

Tips for Food Lovers in Bali

  • Many restaurants and warungs cater to dietary preferences, including vegetarian and gluten-free options – just ask the staff.
  • Always check opening hours and make reservations for popular spots.
  • If you’re sensitive to spice, let the staff know, as Balinese cuisine often includes spicy elements.
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Adventure Tourism: Denali National Park vs. Kenai Fjords National Park https://travelshoebum.com/2024/12/21/adventure-tourism-denali-national-park-vs-kenai-fjords-national-park/ https://travelshoebum.com/2024/12/21/adventure-tourism-denali-national-park-vs-kenai-fjords-national-park/#respond Sat, 21 Dec 2024 11:05:52 +0000 https://travelshoebum.com/?p=35849 Adventure Tourism: Denali National Park vs. Kenai Fjords National Park

If Alaska is the most sought after destination in adventure tourism, Denali National Park and Kenai Fjords National Park are the jewels in the crown. They are the places to be if you are looking for outdoor adventures in stunning rugged landscapes. Deciding which one to visit first is delightfully challenging, so we compare the highlights of both.

If choosing seems impossible, go for a completely different vibe. You can explore a warmer getaway first with a dream Bali vacation and save the snowy adventure until you’re ready.

Denali National Park – Mountainous Majesty

Denali National Park is an adventure tourist’s playground. Mount Denali, North America’s highest peak, overshadows just over six million acres to play in. Everyone finds something to love here, from hikers to nature enthusiasts and adrenaline junkies. Here are some highlights:

  • Hiking: Soak in stark scenery with short trails or multi-day treks. Keep an eye out for caribou, moose, and grizzly bears!
  • White water rafting: The Nenana River delivers adrenaline with white-water rafting. Imagine navigating through scenic canyons on the rapids.
  • Glacier trek: Take it up a notch and get your heart pumping by adding a guided glacier trek. Grab your crampons and head for the most magnificent ice formations.

In winter, Denali epitomizes snowy serenity. Get into nature and try snowshoeing, dog-sledding, or cross-country skiing. This park is for Alaskan adventures lit up with the Northern Lights and nature’s raw power as a backdrop.

Kenai Fjords National Park – Coastal Dreams

Untamed coastal beauty meets awe-inspiring glaciers at Kenai Fjords National Park. This park is perfect for those who feel the call of the ocean. The sheer contrast between dramatic fjords, glistening glaciers, and towering cliffs make this park an adventure tourist’s marine-fuelled dream. These are some highlights:

  • Boat tours: Experience the park with a boat tour to get up close to tidal glaciers. If you are lucky, you may witness calving. This is when a huge chunk of ice breaks off, splashing into the sea. Be ready to snap pics of seals, otters, and whales.
  • Kayaking: For an adventurous twist, take a kayak to Resurrection Bay and paddle in icy seas surrounded by mountain vistas. Watch out for puffins and sea lions as you immerse yourself in this incredible environment.
  • Hiking: Hiking trails in Kenai range from gentle strolls to challenging hikes to overlook points. Take the Exit Glacier Trail to hike right up to a glacier and see a magnificent ice giant in real life.

Choose Your Adventure

How do you choose between Denali National Park and Kenai Fjords National Park for your tourism adventure? Start with visiting Alaska, and then decide what type of adventure you crave.

  • Soaring mountains and diverse wildlife? Denali National Park.
  • Coastal landscapes and vibrant marine life? Kenai Fjords National Park.

Both destinations brim with Alaskan beauty and are everything an adventure tourist dreams of. The best outcome would be to visit both for the full experience. In the meantime? Toss a coin – either way, you are on your way to an unforgettable adventure! Lace your boots and get ready to enjoy Alaska.

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Finding Solitude and Splendor on the Langtang Valley Trail https://travelshoebum.com/2024/11/19/finding-solitude-and-splendor-on-the-langtang-valley-trail/ https://travelshoebum.com/2024/11/19/finding-solitude-and-splendor-on-the-langtang-valley-trail/#respond Tue, 19 Nov 2024 16:00:42 +0000 https://travelshoebum.com/?p=35781 Nepal is filled with stunning and mesmerizing treks. Mystic mountains, serene streams, thick forests, whatever you wish to explore, Nepal has it all. You may be wondering, when Nepal has bustling treks like Everest and Annapurna, what sets the Langtang Valley apart from these treks?  

Unlike other Himalayan treks the Langtang Valley trek offers a unique blend of solitude, splendor and pure Himalayan magic. From glacial rivers to towering peaks, trekking in Langtang valley will enchant you to the core. 

What Makes Langtang Valley So Special?

This hidden sanctuary in the Himalayas is tucked away near the Tibetan border. Though it’s just a day’s journey from Kathmandu, this area has rare untouched beauty and solitude. It’s perfect for adventurers looking to escape from the crowds and bustling cities. 

Langtang Valley is known for its dramatic landscapes like the snow-dusted peaks, huge grasslands, and lush forests of oak and pine. Shimmering glaciers, roaring rivers, and panoramic mountain views have it all. And the Langtang Lirung (7,227 meters) stands like a guardian, guiding you throughout the trek. 

This valley also has cultural value as well, with Tibetan-inspired villages and sacred sites that reflect the deep-rooted Tamang and Tibetan traditions. 

The Beginning of the Journey 

  1. Gateway to the Himalayas (Kathmandu)

Kathmandu, the vibrant capital of Nepal, will be your starting point. From here, you’ll head out with your guides streaming through the hills by road. Then, you’ll reach the starting point or trailhead at Syabrubesi.  

  1. Into the Green Heart of Langtang

Ahead of Syabrubesi is a scenic trek accompanied by colorful birds, playful monkeys, and the soothing sound of the Langtang River. If you follow the route consistently by late afternoon, you’ll reach the Lama hotel. This place gives you a trailer of the Langtang Valley with its sense of solitude and remoteness. 

  1. Entering the Valley of Giants

Beyond Lama Hotel, you start getting the hype for Langtang valley, as the forest begins to thin and the trail opens up. And then the expansive meadows and jaw-dropping views of the Himalayas come into view. The peaks of Langtang Lirung and Ganchenpo start to rise dramatically in the background, and everything starts to feel like a mystical movie.

After these landscapes, you reach Langtang Village. However, this village was significantly affected by the 2015 earthquake. The town has held up nicely since then, and you’ll notice new structures here and there alongside traditional stone homes. The locals, primarily of Tamang heritage, are pretty welcoming, warm, and resilient people. Life here reminds people of both the beauty and fragility of life in the mountains.

  1. Langtang Village to Kyanjin Gompa

And finally you reach the Kyanjin Gompa, what most trekkers consider their last destination. Yes, it is a short hike from Langtang village but the hike duration does not reflect its scenic experience. The Kyanjin Gompa sits at 3,870 meters, surrounded by snowy peaks and glistening glaciers.

Another interesting and cool thing about this small settlement is that it has a very unique local treat : Yak cheese! Here you’ll find a cheese factory where you can sample the famous Himalayan treat and savor its freshness which you can’t experience anywhere else. 

The Langtang Valley Experience

Langtang Valley is quiet, serene, and splendid piece of nature. It shows the true beauty of Himalayas, where you can feel a spiritual connection with the universe. Rich with the Tamang and Tibetan traditions, you get to experience their ancient architecture, prayer wheels, and intricate mane walls carved with ancient Buddhist prayers. 

Trekking in Langtang Valley heals the soul; each day on the trail, you feel the powerful solitude that only the Himalayas can offer. The path is less crowded than other treks, and with each step, your connection with nature deepens. The rush of rivers and the quiet voice of the mountains combine to soothe your soul. 

Final Thoughts

The Langtang Valley is a rare gem in the world of the Himalayas, rarely trekked, and far from modern civilization. A path that offers immense natural beauty, solitude, and a glimpse into the deep-rooted culture of the Langtang region. This place is miles apart from our busy life of technology and innovation. Langtang Valley holds spiritual value. Its quietness and solitude can penetrate deep into our rooted souls and connect us to the sublime and charming nature.  

Langtang Valley is like a sanctuary, a place to connect with nature and discover the power of quiet moments, and with the help of Mosaic Adventures you can visit this dreamy place and reconnect with nature. With a fantastic and capable team of experienced trekkers, guides, sales people and logistical support, they will ensure that you are at ease while soaking up this spiritual wonder.  

You can contact them via email at contact@mosaicadventure.com or WhatsApp at https://wa.me/ +9779823816556 to start planning your Langtang Valley trek today.

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Dubai Travel Guide for First-Time Visitors https://travelshoebum.com/2024/09/02/dubai-travel-guide-for-first-time-visitors/ https://travelshoebum.com/2024/09/02/dubai-travel-guide-for-first-time-visitors/#respond Mon, 02 Sep 2024 06:41:44 +0000 https://travelshoebum.com/?p=35394 Are you planning your first trip to Dubai? If yes, you are in for the best vacation of
your life. Dubai is not just a city, it is a destination where people come to have fun,
forget their worries, and relax. Dubai has some wonderful offerings, too many in fact.
So, it can confuse first-time travelers on what to see and do in Dubai. However, the
following Dubai travel guide will help you choose the best experiences and top
attractions that will make your first Dubai encounter a memorable one.

Here’s what you need to do : 

 
Be Amongst the Clouds 


Start your Dubai trip with the most iconic Dubai attraction – The Burj Khalifa.
Standing at a record-shattering height of 2716 feet (828 meters), this skyscraper will
give you the most breathtaking views of Dubai’s skyline. On the 124th floor is the ‘At
the Top’ viewing deck which is completely made of glass and has hi-powered digital
binoculars. The views from here are magnificent. But if you want to go higher than
this, head to the ‘At the Top SKY’ deck on the 148th floor. You can even enjoy a
delicious Arabian coffee along with the expansive views. At the Burj Khalifa, you will
also enjoy multimedia presentations and the world’s fastest express elevators. The
whole tour is oodles of fun and excitement. 


Get Wet at Dubai’s Amazing Waterparks


Dubai is home to amazing water parks that have record-breaking rides and slides full
of great experiences. So, if you have kids with you, you must set aside some time
just for the parks. The Wild Wadi Water Park near Burj Al Arab is one the most
popular ones with rides like Jumeirah Sceirah, where you reach speeds of 50 mph,
and Riptide FlowRider which is amazing for surfing. Other popular rides here are
Master Blaster, Tantrum Alley, and Juha’s Dhow and Lagoon for the little ones.
Another option worth trying is the Aquaventure Waterpark. Its waterpark section has
rides and slides like Three Towers, Medusa’ Lair, Aquaconda, Hydra Racer, and
Shockwave. And once you are done here, you can also check out the aquarium full
of dolphins, sharks, and stingrays. Though these two are the best, there are other
water parks as well in Dubai worth exploring. 


Shop to Your Heart’s Content


Dubai is Mecca for retail therapy seekers! The city has amazing malls like the Dubai
Mall, Mall of Emirates, and Wafi Mall where you will find the best brands and offers.
These malls are also home to restaurants, cafes, spas, and even attractions like an
ice rink, ski lodge, underwater zoo, and indoor amusement parks. But if mall
shopping is not your thing, find the best bargains in Dubai’s Souks. The Gold Souk
has amazing gold jewelry, while the Perfume Souk has non-alcohol-based perfumes.
In the Textile Souk you’ll find amazing clothing materials, and Spice Souks are for
authentic species. This is where traditional Emiratis shop and it is quite an
experience. 

Have Day & Night Desert Fun 


According to the best Dubai travel tips, it is only here that you can end up having an
absolute blast in the hot desert with a desert safari. Check out the golden dunes
glistening with the rising sun in the Morning Safari and spend the day enjoying
activities like dune bashing, camel riding, and sandboarding. The Evening Desert
Safari also has what morning safari has but once the dusk fun is done, you are taken
to the desert village where you can enjoy traditional dress photography, henna
painting, shisha smoking, Arabic coffee, BBQ dinner, and belly and fire dances. But if
you still want to stay longer in the desert, do the Overnight desert Safari that has
everything including a night stay at the desert camp under the stars, bonfire, and
unlimited coffee. Come, discover how much fun the desert can be.


Amuse Yourself at Dubai’s World-class Theme Parks


Some of the biggest and the best amusement parks are in Dubai, and they are a
huge tourist draw. With the iconic IMG Worlds of Adventure tickets, you will be able
to be part of the Marvel world, Jurassic World Cartoon Network world. The
magnificent MOTIONGATE Dubai where many Hollywood classic films and
franchises come alive, Dubai is the world’s theme park capital. There are other
theme parks here as well that are worth a visit like LEGOLAND Dubai, Real Madrid
World, and Play DXB. 


Gorge on Various Gastronomic Offerings


Dubai has tasty meals for every taste bud and every budget. The city is famed for its
Michelin-star restaurants and is also loved for cheap, quick, and tasty street food
delicacies. So, whatever you are in the mood for, you can have to your heart’s
content. If you want to visit famous restaurants, make reservations in advance as
they are always packed. One place you must visit is the Global Village. Here you will
taste foods from other countries’ cuisines in their most authentic forms. Dubai’s food
is an experience in itself and you cannot and should not miss it.   


Dubai Visa Guide


To make this great trip happen, you will need a Dubai tourist visa to enter the
country. From single-entry visas to multi-entry visas, there are many different types
of tourist visas that you can get, so you have to know how many days you want to
spend in the country. For first-time visitors, the single entry visa is enough to explore
the above-given attractions and experiences, but if you want to stay longer, a 30-day
single entry visa can also suffice. So, decide on the days you want to spend enjoying
in Dubai and start your application process for a Dubai visa online.   

Even though you are going to visit Dubai for the first time, it is guaranteed that this
won’t be your last time. It is so magical and mesmerizing that you will be looking for a
Dubai visa guide next and applying for longer stays. Dubai is brilliant but don’t take
anyone else’s word. Visit and see for yourself.

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Capture the Moment, Not the Calories : Travel Gadgets for Active Experiences https://travelshoebum.com/2024/07/27/capture-the-moment-not-the-calories-travel-gadgets-for-active-experiences/ https://travelshoebum.com/2024/07/27/capture-the-moment-not-the-calories-travel-gadgets-for-active-experiences/#respond Sat, 27 Jul 2024 14:04:41 +0000 https://travelshoebum.com/?p=35292 Nowadays, travel is more than just lounging around the pool or exploring the food scene. More and more travellers are seeking active experiences that allow them to explore destinations in novel and exciting ways.


To support this growing trend, a number of innovative gadgets have emerged, keeping in mind the need to enhance
these active travel adventures. Let’s take a closer look at some of these very helpful and exciting travel gadgets and observe how they can help you make the most of your vacations.


Wearable Fitness Trackers with GPS


One of the most comprehensive gadgets for active travellers is a wearable fitness tracker with built-
in GPS. With technological advances, these devices have come a long way from simple step counters. The modern fitness
tracker can map and calculate your runs, hikes, or bike rides in unfamiliar territories and saves the data, ensuring you don’t
get lost while exploring new trails. Additionally, they also monitor and analyse your heart rate, track your sleep patterns, and even provide guided breathing exercises to help you keep an active lifestyle.


It is a bonus that most of these trackers are water-resistant, making them a perfect accompaniment for swimming or water
sports. Some advanced tracker models also offer features like altitude tracking for hikers and skiers, and also swim tracking for those who love to take a dip in streams and lakes.


Waterproof Action Cameras


If you are someone who wants to capture your adventures in vivid detail, a waterproof action camera is a must-have gadget. These are compact, rugged cameras that go wherever you go; whether you’re surfing, paragliding, snorkeling, white-water rafting, or simply caught in an unexpected rainstorm.
They are designed to be able to withstand extreme conditions, so you can focus on the experience without worrying about damage to the action camera.


Many action cameras offer features like 4K quality video recording, image stabilization feature, and
even voice control, allowing you to capture professional-quality videos and images with relative ease. Some
models are able to even live-stream your adventures, letting friends and family back home be a part of
the excitement in real time.


Cruises from Southampton sail to some of Europe’s most fabulous destinations for foodies,
making it a perfect opportunity to use your action camera to capture the sights and
tastes of your journey, to re-live it later.


Solar-Powered Portable Chargers

When you are out exploring the entire day, keeping your devices charged can be massively challenging. The solution is solar-powered portable chargers and they come in handy for people on the go. These chargers are eco-friendly gadgets that are able to harness the power of the sun to keep your electronics charged up, even when you are far from electrical charging point.
A number of these charger models are rugged and weather-resistant, making them a must have for outdoor adventures.


Newer models of these solar chargers are equipped with multiple ports, allowing you to charge several devices
at once. This feature can be especially useful if you’re traveling with a large group of adventure enthusiasts or using multiple
gadgets throughout the day. With a solar charger in your backpack, you will never have to worry
about missing that perfect sunset because your camera, phone or action camera ran out of battery.


Happy Travels


While active travel gadgets can go a long way in enhancing your experiences, it is important to remember that
they’re just tools and machines. The real adventure is in immersing yourself in new cultures, challenging yourself physically, and creating everlasting memories. So whether you are exploring ancient ruins of a civilization, or hiking a challenging mountain trail, remember to let these gadgets support your journey without overshadowing the travel experience itself. Whatever type of trip you choose (laidback or adventurous), make sure to pack wisely, balancing your gadgets with the travel essentials for a comfortable and memorable experience.

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A Comprehensive Travel Guide for Samarkand https://travelshoebum.com/2024/05/23/a-comprehensive-travel-guide-for-samarkand/ https://travelshoebum.com/2024/05/23/a-comprehensive-travel-guide-for-samarkand/#comments Thu, 23 May 2024 10:35:31 +0000 https://travelshoebum.com/?p=34404 We arrive in Tashkent at the godforsaken hour of 1:30 am, thanks to the Delhi to Tashkent Indigo flight. The immigration process is quick and hassle free. A noteworthy surprise moment at the airport is exchanging anecdotes with a lady from Delhi who hailed from Dobhi village in Kullu Valley (where we live!). It has been decided in advance to while away the night in the confines of the warm airport (13 March, it’s still nippy in Uzbekistan) and we have accordingly booked a 9 am Sharq train from Tashkent to Samarkand (cheaper than Afrosiyob).

Waiting for daylight at Tashkent airport.

Arriving at Tashkent Airport

Currency exchange (from USD to Uzbek Som) and sim card work is done in no time, and we sit trying to rest at the tiny airport. The idea is to either take a yandex taxi or to walk to the Tashkent Central Train Station when it is daylight. At about 4 am, a random conversation with one of the airport officials results in us heading to the waiting lounge area just outside the confines of the Tashkent airport. It is a heated area with ample seating space and a coffee shop. It is brimming with local Uzbekis holding massive flower bouquets who have come to welcome back friends and relatives.

Soviet Architecture on the way to catch the train to Samarkand.

The waiting area is an interesting place for people watching. The coffee counter has a vibrant look, and the cappuccino turns out excellent for about 23000 UZS (About USD $2). Even though it is still dark, we are bored of sitting in the waiting area and decide to step out at 6 am. We are greeted by Tashkent’s taxi guys and a frigid breeze. I am thankful to have kept a jacket at the last minute before boarding the flight in Delhi. After paying 10000 UZS (for the two of us) for using a public toilet, we feel regretful of having left the free area of the airport earlier than planned.

Morning Stroll to Stantsiya Central Tashkent Main Station

The dawn colours on the horizon invite us to start the 5 km walk to the train station and we oblige. Google maps suggests a walking route through a risky-looking train crossing; we take a longer way that crosses an early morning market and goes through residential areas. There’s a security check before entering the train station and our hungry tummies are massively delighted at seeing a small crowd at the cute café ‘Safia’ at the station. I join the queue and choose a croissant that seems to be a local favourite – for (only 9500 Uzbek soum) USD 0.75.

We reach the station earlier than planned because in popular tourist season entry to the train stations across Uzbekistan sometimes takes over 1 hour as the passports and tickets are checked; and luggage has to go through a security check.

I cannot recommend Safia enough; for a quick eat anywhere in Tashkent!

It is so delicious that we are delighted with the prospect of returning to Safia since the Central Station in Tashkent is the main train station for our journeys in Uzbekistan. We take a coffee from one of the other cafes before showing the ticket to the security who ask us to sit in the heated waiting area. The chill in the air seems to be a direct effect of the western disturbance over the Himalayan region. There is a constant humdrum of travellers coming to catch the Afrosiyob train as is to be expected at the biggest train station in the capital of a country.

The small world of Central Asia – Azerbaijan market in Tashkent.

The glimmer of morning sunshine has been taken over by clouds and we take this as our cue to change into warmer clothes in the washrooms at the train station. At about 8 am, we head to the platform where the Sharq train to Samarkand and Bukhara is already stationed. It is quite cold in the open air, and we are joyful and relieved upon entering the cosy heated train.

Sharq Train from Tashkent to Samarkand

It is a chair car train with luxurious seating, charging points and ample space to store the luggage. The Uzbekistan Railways website allows you to choose the seats and ours came with a table! There is a boiling water container (samovar) at the entry of the coach and a round of lavender tea is duly made. No sooner do we sit down to enjoy the delicate taste and aroma of the flower tea; it begins to snow! We can barely believe our eyes. At first. the snow comes down gently. Then, the intensity increases, and the white flurries start coming down in droves.

Cold weather seems to be following us all along and we are beyond thrilled to see snow falling in the middle of March when it is supposed to be spring in Uzbekistan and time for the plum, peach, apple, apricot and other blossoms to bloom. The train does not start on time and the fellow passengers don’t seem to be bothered. After all, it is warm and cozy in the train coach! When it finally starts, we are treated to a visual delight of a white landscape in the outskirts of Tashkent.

Train stations (Vokzal) by the name of Jizzakh and Gulistan come, and I rush to the window to click photographs – of Christmas-like scenes and the name Gulistan. Gul is the Uzbek word for flowers – similar to India. It is to be just the start of cultural similarities between Uzbekistan and India. The Sharq train is supposed to reach Samarkand at 1230 pm but since it is delayed, we only pull into Samarkand Vokzal at 130 pm. The snowstorm continues and we freeze after getting out of the platform and making our way to the exit.

Arriving in Samarkand and our first Yandex Taxi

We want to get to a street before calling a Yandex taxi and manage to make a booking. The place where we stand outside the Samarkand train station is a little confusing since it is on an intersection of many streets, and we receive a phone call from the taxi guy. I am sure language troubles will render communication useless, so I thrust the phone with a request in the hands of a local family who are eager to help. We converse in perfect English and thank them profusely once the yandex taxi arrives! It is with a relieved feeling that we sit in the heated taxi, still comprehending the sudden snowfall and chilly weather in Uzbekistan in spring.

We reach our pre-booked accommodation in hardly 15 minutes from the Samarkand train station and are pleased with the success on booking our first yandex taxi in Uzbekistan. The family-run hotel is ready to receive us and quickly usher us into our heated room after the check-in process. It is a four bedded room and heating radiators have been installed in the bathroom and the room. There is ample space to keep our bags and since we have carried a small kettle with us, we make some Darjeeling autumn flush green tea to relax. We are extremely hungry and contemplate our next course of action even as the snowstorm rages on in Samarkand.

History and a bit about Samarkand

Samarkand, located on the edge of the Kyzylkum Desert is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities of the world. It has a recorded history that goes all the way back to the 7th Century BC. Samarkand was an important stop on the Silk Road (Silk Route) connecting Asia to Europe, and it prospered from the trade passing through the region. However, it was in the 14th Century during Amir Timur’s rule that Samarkand reached its pinnacle when it was made the capital (year 1370) of his vast empire. Timur had a great interest in architecture, culture and art. He patronized craftsmen and architects that led to the development of a unique architectural style known as Timurid architecture.

Samarkand’s decline was swift beginning from the year 1500 AD when the capital was shifted to Bukhara in early 16th Century, then numerous earthquakes played their part in the damage. Its fortunes reversed only when the Russians transformed Samarkand into a modern city, built a railway line and restored some of the heritage monuments. Samarkand was also the capital of the Uzbek Soviet Socialist Republic from 1925 to 1930 before being replaced by Tashkent. Samarkand was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in the year 2001.

Samarkand is the second biggest city in Uzbekistan and an important commercial and cultural centre. It boasts of an illustrious history; Samarkand was coveted and conquered by Alexander the Great, pillaged and destroyed by Genghis Khan, rebuilt to glory by Amir Timur.

Samarkand Yogli non and this little guy was such a poser!

I asked our hostess for a eatery recommendation, and with language communication issues could only understand that there is a small eatery nearby. When we go out trying to find the small eatery, there is no success, and it seems logical to walk to the street where we came from and try and find a restaurant there. Thankfully, the snowstorm has taken a breather, and we are sitting in the cozy interiors of one Shahjahon Milliy Taomlar. The food turns out to be excellent and we enjoy our first taster of Uzbek non (nan) and green tea. As soon as we step out of the restaurant, it begins snowing again and we are totally unprepared for this burst of cold air.

Not awe inspiring at all, is it?

First sight of Registan Square

Our brains are not functioning properly, and we walk in an incomprehensible manner only to start walking back in the direction of our stay. We change the plan once we understand that a number of historical monuments of Samarkand are located quite close to where we are! It is hardly a walk of 10 odd minutes, and we are at the viewing deck of the Registan Square. White snow has covered the blooming spring flowers surrounding the Registan Square. Among the iconic places to photograph in Samarkand, Registan Square is top of the list.

The gloomy sky and the snowfall combine to make it a colourless evening and I am unable to feel the grandeur of the Registan Square of Samarkand. We choose to enter one of the art galleries nearby and I like the paintings and a particular copper water container. As expected, I am quoted a best price of some USD $1000 in the hope that I will indulge in the bargaining game, but I am just testing the waters and wise enough to know when to open my mouth!

So cold in Samarkand after the snowstorm in March.

We are hoping to explore and admire Samarkand’s dazzling mosques, azure blue-tiled madrasahs, majestic domes and minarets, bazaars withhandcrafted treasures and are really hoping the weather gods will behave and let us explore Samarkand in nice, sunny weather.

Excellent food and helpful staff at Shahjahon Milliy Taomlar in Samarkand.

Amir Timur; Uzbekistan and India

For us, being in Uzbekistan is like going back to the history books. Amir Timur is proclaimed a national hero in Uzbekistan whereas our classroom textbooks mentioned Timur as a barbarian. His brutal massacre of Delhi in the year 1398 is the stuff of legends. Uzbekistan is also associated with the beginning of India’s Mughal history – Babur, who established the Mughal empire in undivided India is the great-great-great grandson of Amir Timur. How very interesting!

Guest House in Samarkand

We feel accomplished after the walk on this supremely chilly spring day and ultimately decide to go back to our cosy stay. It is interesting to observe local life as we walk through the non-touristy lanes. We are hoping that tomorrow the sun will be out so that we will be able to have a nice Samarkand experience, since our Afrosiyob train from Samarkand to Bukhara has already been booked for about 11 am, the day after. The hosts at the guest house are really kind and offer us green tea whenever they see us! We fill enough filter water from the dispenser and retire to our warm room for the night.

Spring flowers covered by snow.

It is a nice feeling to relax while the weather is frighteningly cold outside. We also wonder why we don’t have this heating system in the cold regions of India. It would be great to have this central heating system at our home in Kullu Valley. After a hot shower, we dive into the cosy bed. It is prudent to do a bit of route mapping of Samarkand’s monuments and our supposed plan of action for tomorrow. The weather forecast is for an absolutely clear day and relishing the prospect of sunshine, we call it a night and are fast asleep by 8 pm!

We picked up freshly baked yogli non from a nanwai close to our guest house.

First Breakfast in Uzbekistan – Yummy

It is a deep sleep and we wake up super fresh. We decide to take the day as it comes rather than trying to rush early. I open the door and am thankful to see blue skies and a sliver of sunshine across the sky. The clock shows 730 am and we are having a slow morning to get us ready for a proper exploration of Samarkand. The hostess has laid out a plethora of delicacies and we are really looking forward to a nice breakfast to set us up for a long day of walking and sights. We are down in the heated family room at 8 am and are excited to taste the delicious local cheese, fresh cucumbers and tomatoes, home-made pastry, pancakes, local honey, dry fruits, jams and so many other options. We wash down the yummy eats with repeated helpings of green tea, thank the family for the excellent breakfast and set out to explore Samarkand.

A number of these offerings at breakfast were vegetarian.

First up; we had spotted a dazzling blue dome on our way back last evening and upon researching realise it is a famous landmark. Unknowingly, it is our first glimpse of Samarkand’s spectacular blue tilework in the mellow evening light.

Attractions of Samarkand

Gur e Amir or Amir Timur Mausoleum

Rather than trusting our limited geography of Samarkand based on our previous day’s wanderings, we choose to use google maps to walk to the Gur e Amir Mausoleum. We go round and round in circles and have to finally ask some locals and are guided to the right place. The sun is out and Samarkand feels much better with blue skies. The blue dome comes closer and we are right in front of the Amir Timur Mausoleum. The richly carved entrance painted in (guess what!) deep shade of blue is dazzling and we make a mental note to return here in the evening when the sun will light it up.

First blues of the day at Amir Timur Mausoleum.

Gur-e-Amir or Amir Timur Mausoleum is the final resting place of Amir Timur. It is set in beautiful green surroundings and feels like a different part of Samarkand since it is away from the other monuments. This building was originally built to be an Islamic school but a big stroke of luck made . I spot a ‘kassa’ ticket office sign to my left. I check the entry ticket price and it is almost USD $4 per person (UZS 50000). We decide to defer the purchasing of the ticket and walk around the permitted free area with the security guards in tow.

Amir Timur was supposed to be buried at Shakhrisabz (where he was born in 1336 AD) but he unexpectedly died of pneumonia while on war in China. Since snow had closed the passes to Shakhrisabz, he was buried in Samarkand instead. The Gur e Amir or Amir Timur Mausoleum also houses the graves of Timur’s two sons and two grandsons (including Ulugh Beg). We figure that evening is the best time to be here as the blue tiles of the mausoleum are lit in a soft orange hue with the setting sun. Then, as darkness sets in, the lights take effect making the Amir Timur Mausoleum look even more ethereal. We ambled here in the night again and were spellbound by the effect!

A different view – with snow clinging on trees.

It is surreal to see the snow still clinging on the branches of trees (from yesterday’s snowstorm) and we walk around the narrow lanes around the blue domed mausoleum. The sunshine on the other side of Gur e Amir complex feels better and our surprise moment comes when we are on the opposite side of the monument and the door is open. I am happy to click a few pictures from my dslr camera and a bit surprised to see a handicraft shop in the frame. There are two local ladies and a caretaker from the nearby Ak-Saray Mosque soaking in the sunshine. We have limited conversations in broken english and the caretaker is interested in giving us a tour for the Ak-Saray Mosque’s ceiling for 10000 Uzbek soums each.

Aksaray Mausoleum

Located very close to the opposite side of the Amir Timur Mausoleum, we only come to know of its existence because of the gatekeeper who was chatting with the two ladies. Aksaray Mausoleum is an unassuming structure from the outside but apparently the painted ceiling inside is a must see. Amir Timur’s grandsons are buried at the Aksaray Mausoleum. The gatekeeper is offering us a tour of the inside along-with the famed ceiling for a price of UZS 10000 Uzbek Soum (USD 0.75) each. We first opt to walk around the Aksaray Mausoleum to see the Amir Timur Mausoleum with the blue skies. When we come back to the entrance, the door is open, and the gatekeeper is taking money from some Russian speaking tourists. It is a chance viewing of the blue and gold ceiling which looks stunning but also quite shiny making me wonder if it has been freshly painted!

Tubeteikas and other souvenirs at a home-run shop in Samarkand.

Rukhobod Mosque or Rukhabad Mausoleum

We wander back to the Gur-e-Amir Mausoleum and start walking through the green park in front of it to spot the painted ceilings of a nearby mosque. Since it is the month of Ramzan, prayers are going on and we are pleased to gaze at the exquisitely painted wooden ceiling. It is the month of Ramadan and prayers are currently being held.

Rukhobod Mausoleum and Handicraft Center

Adjacent to the Ruhabad Mosque or the Rukhobod Mosque, there is a signboard for another monument. Since, we have no plan set in stone, we enter inside the compound and see that this is an artisan centre with about 15-20 of nice-looking shops set in the courtyard. It is one of the oldest mausoleums in Samarkand and made from bricks (in the year 1380) and was renovated recently.

This open courtyard is great for buying these handmade dolls.

It is bitterly cold after yesterday’s snowfall and half the shops are still closed at the relatively early hour of 930 am. The prices for the usual Uzbek souvenirs quoted at the shops here are quite reasonable and if Samarkand was not our first city, we might have ended up buying a number of souvenirs! We buy a cute handmade doll set for UZS INR 20000 (USD 1.6). On display and sale are miniature paintings, suzani embroidery table runners and bedcovers, embroidered jackets and Uzbek-style adras or ikat jackets.

Registan Square

Samarkand’s or even Uzbekistan’s claim to fame, the majestic Registan square is a collection of three monuments. From the viewing deck, the monuments are perfectly placed on the left, center and right so that you can gaze and gawk at the majestic sight in front of you! Even though we had stood at the viewing deck on the previous day and found Registan Square underwhelming; the blue skies and shining sun today combine to create sheer grandeur of this UNESCO World Heritage Site. There are still bits of snow that have not melted yet, and it is nice to see the bright colours of the blooming spring flowers to warm the heart. Entry tickets to Registan Square are available from a kiosk and cost UZS 80000 (Uzbek Soum) about USD $7.5.

Registan Square looks nice on a sunny, clear day.

History & Heritage of Registan Square

Registan Square is a history and architecture lover’s delight. It comprises of three monuments, here is the order as seen from the viewing deck – Ulugh Beg Madrassah on the left, the majestic Tilya Kori Madrassah in the centre and the Sher Dor Madrassah to the right. According to historical records, Registan Square was an important center of trade in the 15th-16th Century. The complex consisted of several mosques used for prayers and learning, caravanserais, bazaars, a khanqah (inn for Sufis). The small rooms surrounding the courtyard of all the three madrassahs in Registan Square which earlier served as learning cells now function as souvenir shops. The Registan entry ticket is valid for the entire day, so it’s recommended to take the tickets back when you present it to the guards so that you can visit Registan in the evening same day without paying again for the same.

A closer look at the blue mosaic tiles of Registan Square.

The ground floor rooms were initially classrooms and the upper floor was used as sleeping quarters for the students. Now these cells are creatively used by souvenir shops selling intricate suzanis, ikat, pottery, jackets, scarves and other Uzbek handicrafts. Registan Square (and other monuments of Samarkand) was damaged by earthquakes numerous times and the monuments have been heavily restored, like many other monuments across Samarkand. Tickets for Registan Square include entrance to the three madrassahs. An almost unknown fact is that Registan Square has a gory past attached to it as it was also used for public executions at one point of time.

Ulugh Beg Madrassah to the left and on the centre is Tilya Kori Madrassah.

Ulugh Beg Madrassah (15th Century) – It is the oldest of the three madrassahs of the Registan Square; originally built very swiftly in a short period of three years (1417-1420) AD by Ulugh Beg, grandson of Amir Timur. Ulugh Beg was a mathematician and an astronomer and that is evident in the depiction of the sky and stars embellished on the entrance-arch tile work of the monument. In the courtyard, there are approximately 50 cells, where about 200 students were taught astronomy and mathematics. It is possible to climb to the second floor of the madrassah for a nice bird’s eye view of the Registan Square.

Tilya Kori Madrassa also (Tilla Kari Madrassah) (17th Century)- The golden ceiling of the Tilya Kori Madrassah is special and a hallmark of this monument. Shaybanid Emir Yalangtush built this mosque that is adorned with gold leaf. It served as a caravanserai for travellers and was the last of the three monuments built on the Registan Square. Tilya Kori literally means gold covered and this refers to the spectacular golden ceiling! An interesting trivia about this monument is that while the elaborate gilded ceiling in the Tilya Kori Mosque’s central chamber looks like a hollow dome, it is in fact flat and is merely an optical illusion. Photos of the Registan square before renovation are on display in one of the exhibits in the Tilya Kori Madrassa.

Side view of the Sher Dor Madrassah.

Sher Dor Madrassah (17th Century) – Located on the right of Tilya Kori Madrassa, the Sher Dor madrassa could be said to be less popular among the photo-ops. Its chief differentiator is the mosaic tile work that shows the sun, a tiger and deers on both sides of the entrance arch. While Islam prohibits the depiction of living beings, a Zoroastrian past is visible on the façade of the Sher Dor Madrassah where the animals are depicted.

A photograph from the dslr camera.

Entrance Fee & Timings : 80000 Uzbek Soum (USD 6.5), open from 7 am till late night.

Best time to visit Registan Square : Early morning before the tour groups arrive and sunset time.

Tip : Emirhan Restaurant has a fabulous view of the Registan Square!

Night Lights at Registan Square – Registan Sound and Light Show

We return to Registan Square in the evening and are welcomed with an ethereal evening light casting an orange hue on the monuments. The golden façade of the Tilya Kori Madrassah looks even more mesmerising during sunset time. The wind is ferociously cold and we are caught unawares. We want to enjoy wandering around the monuments of Samarkand in the lights and therefore decide to quickly head back to our guest house; wear another layer and come back to the Registan Square.

We take a shortcut and are back in less than 20 minutes. Of course, a few minutes of the sunset are missed, but it made more sense to be ready for the cold since it has snowed only the day before and the temperature is close to negative. When we come back, it is a surreal sight with the majestic Registan Square lit up in perfect yellow-orange lights. At about 7 pm, the Light and Sound show started and the monuments of Registan Square are getting lit up in myriad colours. The evening lights and Light and Sound show is best watched from the viewing deck or from the steps where you can relax as well!

Evening brings a stunning array of colours at the Registan Square.

Entry : UZS 60000, or simply watch it for free from the steps or the viewing deck!

Heritage Walk in Samarkand

Starting from the Registan Square in Samarkand, this self-styled heritage walk is via a cobblestone path that connects the major historical and must-see monuments in Samarkand. We take a right at the end of the Islam Karimov statue park and continue on the pedestrian walking area. There are souvenir shops and a few restaurants, chaikhanas, milliy taomlar (Uzbek national foods) eateries lining both the sides. I highly recommend exploring the heritage attractions of Samarkand by walk as it gives a more authentic feel. The heritage walk is quite convenient as it starts on the Islam Karimov street and continues to the Shah I Zinda necropolis.

As we start the walk, we come across a conveniently located cafe serving ice-creams, cold drinks, snacks and other basic stuff. It is perhaps in preparation for the summer when it is the most popular season for tourists to visit Samarkand and the weather starts becoming hotter. The souvenir shops on the left and the right look the same with the usual suzani, machine made ikat, pottery knick-knacks, jackets, bags and the likes. We spot a few interesting eateries and enter one of them; the setting is impeccable with a topchan (Uzbek style sitting) bed flanked by a tree resulting in dappled sunlight.

Craftsmen’s Centre on Islam Karimov Street

While on the heritage walk on the cobblestone path, we see a signboard for Craftsmen’s Centre. Always keen on handmade arts and crafts, we immediately head to the spacious building. The courtyard is beautiful with plants and trees and is surrounded by artisan shops. The potter crafting delicate blue pieces has a lovely collection, and the metal artisan chiseling plates is engrossed in work. Some of the shops are closed, but we are pleased to browse the excellent collection at Art Gallery Happy Bird. The leather workshop guy has excellent stuff as well but is a tad too expensive.

Bibi Khanym Mosque or Bibi Khanum Mosque

As you keep walking on the heritage trail for 5-7 minutes from the Craftsmen’s Centre, you come cross the Bibikhanum Teahouse on your left and reach the mosque which is another 2 minute walk. The first impression as you walk towards the Bibi Khanym Mosque is massive. At 41 metres, it was one of the highest and biggest mosques in the world when it was built in the 15th Century. This mosque was largely financed by Timur’s spoils resulting from the invasion of India. Historical records state that a huge number of slaves and about 100 elephants were brought from India for its construction. The size of the Bibi Khanym mosque is so massive that it had started crumbling even before the construction was entirely finished! We are finally able to capture the huge mosque in one frame from the opposite Bibi Khanym Mausoleum.

The architecture style of Bibi Khanym Mosque is said to have been inspired from Iran with four towering minarets and a massive dome. The interior is filled with intricate tile-work like the other historical monuments of Samarkand. This mosque was heavily damaged in an earthquake in 1897 which caused significant destruction across Samarkand. In 1970, work began on restoring it almost entirely from scratch with speedy culmination after Uzbekistan’s independence in 1991. Bibi Khanum, who ordered the mosque to be built was Amir Timur’s Chinese wife. She was a Chagatai princess by the name of Saray Mulk Khanum and was a direct descendent of Genghis Khan.

Entry fee: 50000 UZS (4 USD)

Bibi Khanym Mausoleum

Lying opposite to the Bibi Khanym Mosque, the mausoleum is the place where Bibi Khanym (Amir Timur’s wife) was buried. It is a simple looking small building compared to the other monuments in Samarkand. The lady at the entrance asked us for UZS 10000 per person entry which we promptly refused since it is not a ticketed monument. Later, I saw some foreigners pay UZS 25000 per person for entering! It is best to see the Bibi Khanym Mausoleum from the outside and be away from the touristy trail for a few quiet moments from the bustle of Bibi Khanym mosque.

Can you see the mausoleum in the photograph?

Siyob Bazar (Siyob Bozor)

Siyob bazaar lies at a stone’s throw from Bibi Khanym Mosque on the Samarkand Heritage Walking Trail. It is Samarkand’s largest and oldest bazaar; with a history spanning about 2000 years! As you enter, you can spot the ladies to your left selling fresh dairy produce like paneer, cheese, kurt and varieties of halva. An entire section of the market is filled with dry-fruit sellers, vegetable sellers, fruit sellers, and spice sellers as well. The covered section has a couple of souvenir shops that try to sell average quality overpriced stuff, so better to steer clear of them! In comparison, the smaller shops lining the periphery of the bazaar have varied collections and might be a better place to bargain for some unique Samarkand and Uzbek souvenirs.

This is a tapchan – local Uzbeki style of seating popular across Uzbekistan.

The pistachio halva (that tastes like a sweet nougat) is a popular takeaway from Samarkand; we tasted it at Sharq Halva the previous day and did not like it at all! So be wary of touristy gimmicks and try a taster before buying. Seasonal fruits and vegetables are a good buy at the Siyob Bazaar; I highly recommend trying the apples as Uzbekistan grows a large variety of tasty apples priced at about UZS 12500 (USD 1) per kilo.. Among other offerings are dry fruits, nuts, baked non (Samarkand non breads are special), handicrafts, caps, tubeteikas, glazed pottery plates and lots more. Depending on the season, watermelons and muskmelons in summer and grapes in autumn.

We are a bit tired with the walks and exploration and opt to sit at one of the truly local eateries in Siyob Bozor. Sunshine is streaming in, and the seating is Uzbek style tapchan. The eatery is crowded with locals, and we are glad to experience a restaurant/cafe in true Uzbekistan or Central Asian style. A pot of green tea and freshly baked non costs about UZS 10000 (USD 0.75). I nibble on an apple that we had just bought from one of the sellers at Siyob Bozor. Also, the best part about Siyob Bazaar is that entry is free! (Take that as a pun, as with ticketed entry everywhere – nothing or nowhere is free in Samarkand!)

Hazrat Khizr Mosque

Rejuvenated after a break, we continue our stroll and come to an intersection. Spring flowers are blooming in a range of glorious colours on the pavement. On the left is a majestic looking mosque on an uphill climb while the straight path would lead to the ruins of ancient settlement Afrasiab. There are people standing in the richly painted wooden balcony. As we climb the stairs, the snow-clad mountains are visible in the far distance. The sky is absolutely clear after the snowstorm of the previous day. We are excited at the prospect of a bird’s eye view of Samarkand from the vantage point of the Hazrat Khizr Mosque. Bibi Khanym Mosque’s real splendour is visible from one of the balconies and on the other side are partial views of Shah-I-Zinda necropolis and one can also spot the ruins of Afrasiab in the far distance flanked by the snow mountains.

Spring in full bloom at Hazrat Khizr mosque.

The mosque looks recently renovated and has an interesting mix of blue tiles and intricate geometric patterns combining to create an inviting and unique architectural style. The open courtyard of the mosque is spacious, and is dotted with several smaller enclosures. We rush to the balcony and are in awe of the stunning painted wooden ceiling. The ancient and modern blend of Samarkand is beautifully juxtaposed with the three-hundred-degree view of the snowy mountain ranges. As we walk in the central courtyard, a friendly Uzbek family played a bollywood song and we have a little dance with them before clicking pictures!

Entry to Hazrat Khizr is free!

History of Hazrat Khizr Mosque

Hazrat Khizr mosque is one of the oldest buildings in Samarkand and was originally built in the 8th century. It is named after the Sufi saint Hazrat Khizr. The mosque built in the 8th Century was destroyed and burnt to the ground by Genghis Khan in his attack of 13th century. It was partially rebuilt in 1854 and was recently restored in the 1990s.

Islam Karimov Mausoleum

In the open courtyard of the Hazrat Khizr Mosque, there is a gleaming mausoleum of Uzbekistan’s first president Islam Karimov, who died in 2016. The mausoleum was built in 2018 but totally blends in with the architectural style as the other parts of the Hazrat Khizr mosque. Entry fee inside the tomb is UZS 20000.

Shah I Zinda or Shakhi Zinda

Shah-I-Zinda necropolis is a collection of ornate mausoleums built from the 11th to 19th Century. It is an art lover’s dream come true with some of the most exquisite blue tilework in entire Central Asia and each mausoleum looking more elaborate (and bluer) than the others! Some of the mausoleums are for important members of the royal family from the Timurid era while the most stunning architecture dates from the 14th and 15th century. Shah I Zinda literally translates to ‘tomb of the living king’ which refers to the grave of Qusam-ibn-Abbas (cousin of Prophet Mohammed), who is said to have brought Islam to Samarkand in the 7th Century.

Side view of a blue mausoleum at Shah I Zinda.

Among the most impressive sights in the Shah I Zinda necropolis complex are the Shodi Mulk Oko Mausoleum, Shirin Beka Oka mausoleum, Ali Nesefi mausoleum and Amirzadeh mausoleum. Remember to dress conservatively covering your shoulders and knees as this is a sacred site.

Note: Even though Shah I Zinda complex’s tombs survived more than seven centuries with only minor upkeep, recently almost all the tombs were controversially restored in 2005. Hence a word of caution, if you think everything is old; then the answer is no. In simple words, much of the mind-blowing mosaic and terracotta work you see today is not original and has been highly restored.

Afrasiyab Settlement Ruins

The Afrasiyab Settlement in Samarkand, Uzbekistan is an important historical site that dates to the pre-Islamic period. It is believed to be the ancient city of Marakanda, founded in the 7th century BC by the Sogdians, a Central Asian civilization. Samarkand was a prosperous city on the hill until it was destroyed by the Mongol invasion in the 13th Century. Afrasiyab ruins are reached by a walk – we continue on the same heritage walking trail past the Hazrat Khizr mosque. The distance is about 1.5 kms and it is a pleasant walk that should take about 20 minutes.

Happy surprise seeing the snowy mountains flanking Samarkand.

Afrasiyab Museum

Adjacent to Afrasiyab settlement ruins, the Afrasiyab museum should be visited first to get a real sense of the ruins. Among the ancient things on display is a damaged 7th-century fresco of a Zoroastrian Nowruz celebration. The Afrasiyab museum is dedicated to the history of Samarkand and the surrounding region. The museum also showcases a number of treasured artefacts like murals, ceramics and textiles from the Sogdian period, that offer insights into the life and culture of the people who lived during that time.

Entry : 40000 UZS

Observatory of Ulugbek

Constructed in 1429 by Ulugbek, this was the first astronomical observatory in Central Asia before it was destroyed in 1445 by religious fanatics. Ulugbek was a keen astronomer and was able to calculate the length of a star year to a one-minute difference to our current calculations, almost 600 years ago! There is a museum in the same complex right next to the observatory, where visitors can learn more about the observatory and see the remnants of the instruments from the 15th Century.

This path continues straight to Afrasiyab ruins.

Ulugbek’s Observatory is a bit far (about 6 kms) from the other attractions of Samarkand and it is best to take a Yandex taxi to go there.

Entry : 40000 UZS (About 3.2 USD)

Offbeat Samarkand

If you are staying in Samarkand for more than 2-3 days in the high season and are bored of seeing the monuments with the tourist hordes; here’s your chance to find some solace at some of these offbeat sights in Samarkand.

Gumbaz Synagogue

About 10 minutes walk from Shah I Zinda, tucked in a by-lane lies Gumbaz Synagogue that was built in 1891 for Samarkand’s Jewish community. The inner domed hall of the synagogue has a beautiful ceiling. In the present day, hardly 50 Jews remain in Samarkand and there are no fixed days for the minyan ceremony. Caretaker may ask for UZS 50000 per person in the name of donation!

Islam Karimov Statue

In the morning when we were roaming in the periphery of the Registan Square, I notice a colourful sight in a nearby green space and we decide to go there later. Hiding in plain sight, this bronze statue is a tribute to the late first president of Uzbekistan, who ruled for 25 years. The lush garden is popular with local Samarkand folks for wedding photography of newlyweds! The Islam Karimov statue is in the middle of the park. Come in the evenings to observe the kids take joy rides on the tricycles. A variety of popcorn is available for sale on the mobile carts.

Late President Islam Karimov’s statue in the park adjacent to Registan Square.

Cemetery or Kabristan

Hardly one minute distance from the Hazrat Khizr mosque lies Samarkand’s main cemetery. It is a fascinating place to walk with interesting epitaphs and relative quiet from the other surrounding chaotic and popular monuments of Samarkand. The cemetery has novel views of Shah I Zinda and the Afrosiyab ruins can be seen in the far distance, flanked by snowy mountains in the far distance.

The kabristan / cemetery has elaborate epitaphs and zero tourists.

Museum of Regional Studies, Samarkand

Located a stone’s throw away from the Central Park, the Museum of Regional Studies in Samarkand is devoted to Uzbek Jewish history. The museum is located in an old Jewish merchant’s house, and old photos of Samarkand’s sizeable population of Bukhara and European Jews are on display.

Entrance : 25000 UZS, extra for photography

Jewish Cemetery

We were pleasantly surprised at coming across the doors of the Jewish Cemetery in Samarkand with an ornamental gateway engraved with the star of David. The cemetery is well maintained and is hardly 5 minutes’ walk from Shah I Zinda, along the Islam Karimov street. Based on my visit, there is no entry fee.

The Jewish Cemetery in Samarkand is so ancient.

Samarkand Bukhara Silk Carpets Factory

One of the highlights of our explorations in Samarkand was stumbling upon the riches of Samarkand Bukhara Silk Carpets Factory! I can count myself lucky to see the highest quality of artisanship creating and showcasing priceless handmade carpets. We were given a proper tour of the weaving process, details about using natural dyes and also shown the different varieties of kilims, rugs, silk rugs, sozani, jackets and many more handicrafts! There was no pressure to buy and that is a refreshing change as tourist hotspots invariably try to exhort money from you.

Yes, thats a handwoven carpet!

Even if you are not planning to buy a kilim or carpet or do any shopping whatsoever, I highly recommend visiting this place to observe the process of high quality carpet weaving. The Samarkand Bukhara Silk Carpets factory is a 10 minute walk from the Jewish Cemetery.

Central Park in Samarkand

If you are bored of visiting Samarkand’s popular attractions with busloads of tourists and want to just get away from the action and spend some time like the locals do, then Central Park is a good place. It is a lovely green space with plenty of flowers in spring and is a hotspot for children who come to enjoy bike rides in the evening. A nice park for a relaxed walk and get rejuvenated to get back to Samarkand’s main attractions!

Surreal evening light in a park.

Wine Tasting in Samarkand at Khovrenko Wine Factory

Visiting the Khovrenko wine factory is an interesting insight in the world of Uzbek wine. The Khovrenko winery has been making wines since 1868. The in-house Samarkand Museum of winemaking has some interesting photos of Soviet wine production in the 1930s. The wine tasting is priced at UZS 100000 to UZS 200000 and includes 3 white wines, 4 red wines, 2 Uzbek cognacs and 1 aperitif.

We walked roughly about 25 kms that day in Samarkand.

Statue of Amir Timur

A chance find, I spotted this statue in the middle of a green park while heading back to the Samarkand train station. This majestic statue of Timur seated on a throne is located very close to the Amir Timur mausoleum and is the start of Samarkand’s modern part built by the Russians in the 20th Century.

Statue of Amir Timur, clicked on our way to the train station in Samarkand.

Day Trips from Samarkand

Meros Paper Making Factory in Konigil, Samarkand

Located about 10 kms from Samarkand in Konigil village, Meros paper making factory is home to a team of skilled craftsmen employing traditional methods to create handmade paper. Visitors can watch the one hour workshop process (UZS 15000) from start to finish to learn about the traditional technique of making paper. The souvenir shop has interesting accessories for sale created from handmade paper. Konigil village is a nice place to visit if you are staying in Samarkand for more than 3 days. There’s also a pottery making workshop nearbuy in Konigil.

Handmade doll set for souvenir gifting.

Entry : 15000 UZS

Among other offbeat sights and attractions in Samarkand, the 9th Century mausoleum of Imam al-Bukhari located about 25 kms from Samarkand, State Museum of History of Culture, Urgut town’s bazaar and Chor-Chinor garden about 40 kms from Samarkand.

Day Trips from Samarkand

Shakhrisabz, the birthplace of Amir Timur (a village nearby) is a UNESCO heritage site with many notable attractions like Aksaray Palace, Tomb of Amir Timur (he was buried instead in Samarkand), Kok Gumbaz mosque, Amir Timur museum and other historic attractions. Shakhrisabz (also called Shahrisabz) is about 90 kms from Samarkand and can be reached by a shared taxi (called marshrutka).

Practical Tips for Visiting Samarkand

Best Weather to visit Samarkand?

Weather wise, mid-March to May and mid-September to October is the best time to visit Samarkand when the temperature ranges between 32 degrees maximum to 8 degrees minimum. It is the most popular time for tourists and expect crowds everywhere you go. June, July and August are the hottest months when the temperature in Samarkand hits over 36 degrees and sometimes reaches 42 degrees. Spend the afternoons cooling down if you choose to go during the summer season.

Tram spotting in Samarkand, close to the train station.

December and January are the coldest months in Samarkand with night temperatures plummeting to -15 degrees. If you are used to the cold, it could be a great time to see the monuments in white snow. You will encounter almost zero tourists and have the sights of Samarkand to yourself. The months of November and February are cold but bearable and can serve as the perfect shoulder season for visiting Samarkand. Indoors across Uzbekistan are centrally heated, so no problem for the chilly nights if you want to visit when there are lesser tourists. Pack heavy winter jackets, caps, socks and thermals if you choose to travel in the cold weather as the dry Central Asian cold can be pretty rough!

Accommodation in Samarkand?

There are a number of homestays, hotels, hostels, guest houses to stay close to the main sights in Samarkand. Price options for backpackers, budget stays, luxury accommodation are plentiful. We had booked a family run guest house which turned out to be excellent. It is best to book in advance in high season.

How to reach Samarkand?

Samarkand has an international airport and is very well connected by road and railway.

From Tashkent by train – Multiple train options like Afrosiyob and Sharq from Tashkent to Samarkand throughout the day. Recommended to book in advance. Book from the official Uzbek Railways website.

Modern railway station of Samarkand – better than Tashkent International Airport.

From Bukhara by train – Multiple train options like Afrosiyob and Sharq from Bukhara to Samarkand throughout the day. It is best to book in advance directly from the Uzbek Railways website.

Where to eat in Samarkand?

Some of the best eateries in Samarkand are not on the touristy trail. Milliy Taomlar eateries serve traditional dishes in a relaxed seating. Restaurants and cafés located close to the attractions are a hit and miss and its best to check the latest reviews before deciding on a place.

Even though I have tried to cover everything that came to mind, I am welcome to suggestions to make additions to this travel guide to Samarkand.

Samarkand non for sale at the train station – it is sought all over the country.

In a way it felt like Samarkand had saved its best for the last. As the modern Afrosiyab train rolled onto the platform, deep-throated, guttural cries of ‘Samarkand non, Samarkand non’ rang in my ears. There was a bit of Silk Road still left in Samarkand. Perhaps I will return someday (in better weather?) to let the city change my opinion.

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