Read from the epic 2015 trip to Kumaon :

Attending a Kumaoni Wedding in Kumaon

Alternative Living in Kasar Devi

I had no plan of where to go next and a stroke of luck meant I was sitting in a camper before it got dark. The camper guy mentioned he was going to Sitlakhet and I remarked I’d love to go there! It was already semi-dark when the camper had given me a ride and we crossed Sitlakhet in pitch darkness. That day the camper guy recommended that I should just get back to Almora and stay there for the night and then figure my plans with a fresh mind. This was in 2015.

In 2018, I’d read about Nayalap and thought about a visit to Sitlakhet. The visit would only materialise in 2021 when we are living in Kasar Devi. It is the month of January when we embark on a four day visit to Sitlakhet. From Kasar Devi, the road first descends to Kosi where we cross the Kosi river and bridge and take a left towards Sitlakhet.

We have left at about 930 am and the views of the Himalayan peaks are a bit hazy from Kasar Devi. As we near Kosi, the haze increases with the appearance of the Kosi river. We ascend crossing the sizeable village of Khoont and at one of the turns the full splendour of the Himalayan peaks is visible. Nayalap is located 3 kms before Sitlakhet in a hamlet by the name of Salla Rautela.

I am overjoyed with the view of the Himalayan peaks but the haze is back and my joy is short lived. We reach Nayalap earlier than expected. Nayalap offers luxury camping (glamping) and we meet the owners Tanuja and Anindya. It is nice and sunny in the open sit-out and the first look of the property is captivating. We are ushered into the luxurious setting and keep our backpacks inside.

We chat for an hour or so while enjoying the nice sunshine and decide to hike to Sitlakhet bazaar by a jungle path. The distance by road is only 3 kms but it makes sense to walk when you are in a nice forest breathing clean air. We first walk past the village of Salla Rautela and then start our hike on a lovely jungle path that has a winding ascent all the way till Sitlakhet.

Sitlakhet – An Introduction

Sitlakhet is a tiny hamlet in Kumaon, Uttarakhand. It has a few shops in the one street market and is located away from the main Almora – Ranikhet circuit. It is an offbeat destination and has been popular with the travellers of yore due to the vintage Forest Rest House in Sitlakhet that was built in 1873 by the British. Sitlakhet is rich in flora and fauna and the hills and jungles around the village are said to house more than 100 species of birds.

The hiking trail to Sitlakhet is well marked and passes through a mixed forest of pine, oak, deodhar, rhododendron trees, and also crosses an educational institution on the way. We also meet a few locals on the hike and exchange greetings. The sun filters through the trees and makes it a pleasant experience with the breeze staying away. We reach Sitlakhet bazaar in about 30 minutes and continued towards the FRH after a short peek at the market shops.

Forest Rest House Sitlakhet

The Forest Rest House (FRH) in Sitlakhet was probably built in mid 1860s and is located on a hillock that is at a distance of around 500 metres from the main Sitlakhet Bazaar. There’s also the KMVN TRH (Tourist Rest House) which appears just before the iron gate of the FRH. In front of the Forest Rest House, there is a small green meadow which would be a perfect picnic spot on a clear day when the Himalayas are visible. Some of the prominent peaks that can be seen from Sitlakhet are Nanda Devi, Trishul, Chaukhamba, and Panchachuli.

The Forest Rest House in Sitlakhet is a beautiful old building and has an enviable setting. We are unable to see it from the inside, as it is undergoing repairs with the wooden floors in the rooms being replaced. I could only have a peek from the window and saw that the interiors were charming and there are fireplaces in the rooms and the dining area as well.

Sitlakhet Bazaar comprises of a few shops selling necessities, a cute-looking post office, a pharmacy, a blue coloured tea stall, a local dhaba making samosas, and 2-3 hotels providing basic accomodation facilities. We continue on our jungle walk after visiting the FRH and a dog accompanies us from FRH Sitlakhet. It is around 4 pm and we are surprised to see a rhododendron flower blooming; even though it is only January.

It is a surreal sight to see an acacia tree in bloom, in an alluring shade of yellow. We are walking in a dense forest and the evening light makes the surroundings look even more beautiful. After a while, we reach a flat grassland and see some holes dug for water percolation by the Forest Department. It is a leisurely downhill hike thereafter to reach Naila village and come back to Nayalap. There is a small bakery in Naila village and it is fun to see biscuits and other products being made.

Salla Rautela – A Typical Kumaoni Village

On one of the afternoons at Nayalap, I am accompanied by Tanuja and Anindya to take a walk around the Kumaoni village of Salla Rautela. It is an old village and the houses are spread across the valley. Salla Rautela is a typical Kumaoni village with pretty houses, mostly barren fields, dwellings with heritage value with carved doors and windows in likhai craft, exquisite door and window frames, and a few vintage houses made from stone can also be seen.

Some of the designs on the door and window panels are quite exquisite, while one can spot a few dilapidated, crumbling homes too. Some of these homes are locked, presumably to return later while some seem to be locked forever. I experience a feeling of unparalleled joy upon seeing a field of daffodil flowers (nargis flowers) blooming in one part of the village. Their scent is light but memorable and I wonder if it is available in bottled form.

Palayan – Migration in Uttarakhand

When I turn around, my eyes are facing a bakholi (a common village home) of 9 houses, which is a huge structure in a crumbling condition. 2-3 homes out of the 9 are in dire straits and the walls on the lower floor are already collapsing. Some of the home owners have shifted closer to the road and have built a home there.

The fields that the villagers own are mostly left uncultivated. The reasons are manifold – water issues, monkeys and pigs destroying their crops, young generation doesn’t want to farm anymore, everyone wants a job. Since jobs in the hilly regions of Uttarakhand are few and far between, the youth ultimately ends up migrating to the cities in search of work and slowly the families move out of the village preferring to live an ‘easier’ life.

There were also a few glimmers of hope, I saw one traditional Kumaoni home being rented by a Nepali family with kids playing in the courtyard and another one with pretty doors rented by a couple from Bageshwar. Most of these doors and windows are painted in different colours, predominantly in shades of blue although I also spotted some green ones too.

On the informative walk, I was pleased to be shown tiny holes in the walls of houses that were meant for bees. The entry and exit would be controlled by the house owner ensuring a small quantity of real honey. Next day when I went again, I met 2 brothers sowing potatoes in the fields; they were planning to tie a dog near the field so that the monkeys wouldn’t dare to come near the crop.

We sat near the nargis flowers (daffodils) and said our namastes to the local women carrying fodder for animals. The aipan designs outside homes were especially beautiful but it was a little sad to see a number of the homes locked. Apparently, the locals had moved out and migrated to the cities. Salla Rautela village has about 90 homes and around 40 of them had already migrated leaving some of those locked homes and some of the others crumbling.

Nayalap

Tanuja is a local from the Kumaon region and was concerned with the mass exodus of the Kumaoni youth towards the cities. That was the idea that gave birth to Nayalap; the word migration in english is palayan in hindi. Palayan read backwards is Nayalap – and that is what Tanuja and Anindya aim to do with Nayalap is to start the reverse migration and bring back Kumaoni youth back from the cities. Nayalap also endeavours to convert old Kumaoni houses into homestays and give a sustainable earning model to the locals by way of tourism.

Nayalap is a boutique luxury stay consisting of 4 glamping tents, that are spread out from each other for privacy of the guests. If I have to summarise Nayalap in a nutshell – there are multiple pristine hiking trails in the jungle, luxury camping (glamping) in the midst of nature, gorgeous furniture with pleasing interiors, warm electric blankets, excellent food with Kumaoni dishes, use of the local sheep wool blanket Thulma, evening lights of Almora and the moonrise when the moon appears red. They employ local Kumaoni staff from the nearby villages.

The weather is hazy which is unusual for the winter and that means we have a clear view of the mountains for just one day. According to the locals when the views are clear, the sight of Himalayan peaks from Sitlakhet is surreal. The luxury tents at Nayalap are set on platforms and have a jungle feel as there is ample space for each of them surrounded by trees and they are not cloistered together which is usually the case with luxury tent properties. What that means is that we wake up to the sounds of birds. Evening bonfires with home made ginger wine are welcome with a dazzling view of the stars in the night skies.

Furniture – Every tent is equipped with a dining/work table with ample space for 4, and a comfortable contemporary settee lined with gorgeous cushions. Side tables, a rack for keeping bags, a clothes hanger, and a vintage looking cabinet. Flooring is bamboo mats woven by local artisans. Choice of teas is excellent, bottles of green tea, masala tea and coffee are kept and a strainer is given. The tea mugs look custom made and feel very pretty. Curtains are in the form of bamboo blinds.

Even though it is thick in the middle of winter, the temperature is comfortable inside the tent even after it gets dark. The heater does its job and we have dinner on the table in the tent itself. A happy surprise is the electric blankets and we turn them on 30 minutes before getting in the bed. That means the bed is nicely warm and coupled with the thulma blanket, it is a cosy night’s sleep.

The dining area has 3-4 tables and is set amidst trees, surrounded by succulents, other flowers and greenery and has a rustic yet welcoming feel. There is one table kept in the open space that receives the maximum sunlight and is the preferred place for breakfast and lunch. The small verandah outside each tent comes with a portable small table and mobile chairs (quechua). The tents itself have white curtains on all sides on the exterior. Inside the tents, the white curtains can be drawn to separate the living area from the bedroom part to make it a more intimate space. We had carried fairy lights to make it look more warm and cosy and homely!

The mobile network and internet connectivity at Nayalap is excellent and they also have wifi. There’s also a dog at the property by the name of Ludo. It is refreshing to see school kids every morning as they cross through the open area to go for their tuition. One can see easter egg decorations and pine cones painted in the open space. Nayalap’s natural feel brings out the artist in visitors and proof of that is in a watercolour painting gifted by a guest. It can be seen outside the kitchen wall.

At Nayalap, their food offerings are varied and are a nice mix of Indian, continental and Kumaoni food – Thatwani soup (black in colour) made of 3 beans, bhatt ki churkani, bhatt ka dubka, bhangjeera ki chutney, sana hua nimbu, bhaang ki chutney, jhangore ki kheer, salad of thatwani, aloo ke gutke, gahat ki dall, mooli salad in mustard oil, gaderi ki sabzi, mandua ki roti, fresh paneer made in the village, pumpkin soup. In short, every meal felt like a feast and they customize the food according to the guest’s preferences.

The staff from nearby villages has been trained well and food is served hot in fine serving vessels with accompaniments like ghee, raita, salad and local Kumaoni salt. I quite liked the innovation with the mandua halwa and gaderi toast. During breakfast time, there was a choice of fruits everyday, and fresh made juice or milk shake and a word of appreciation for consistently excellent masala chai.

A Day Trip to Ranikhet – Walks in Ranikhet

The distances in Kumaon are small, and that meant we decide to explore Ranikhet on a Saturday! We leave from Nayalap at about 11 am and totally enjoy the drive amidst the thick forests and minimal traffic. On the way, Tanuja pointed out a jackal right in front of us – then we realised it was a pair of jackals, and multiple steppe eagles on the road. There might have been a dead animal in the vicinity as we see more steppe eagles on the next turn.

We cross Majkhali and drive past the Army Golf Course and reach Ranikhet Cantt. after an hour or so. It is somewhere close to the Nar Singh Stadium where we start our walk. We climb a short set of stairs and arrive at a point to see the first dwellings or barracks where the English soldiers first started living. It is an Army Cantt. area and there’s a temple in front of the KRC (Kumaon Regiment Centre) woollens workshop in an old Church.

KRC Woollens

I had heard about the wonderful initiative of Kumaon Regiment Centre Woollens but had never expected to see a Church being converted to a workshop. It felt quite an amazing idea to maintain the church and preserve the heritage! There were about 20 looms installed in the interiors and a signboard which detailed about the variety of shawls and woollen products made at KRC Woollens. I met a guy from Pithoragarh here and he told me about the variety of products made here.

The shop section of KRC woollens was located in another Church which was hardly a five minute walk from the first Church. There was another smaller workshop in the second Church and we had to rush to the shop since it was about to be 1 pm when the staff would shut shop for their lunch break. We entered at 1250 pm and were happily surprised with the excellent quality of stoles, mufflers, jackets, tweed cloth, shawls and other woollen products. There were also handicrafts in traditional Kumaoni designs made by war widows.

The best part was that prices were fixed and the staff was ok with us seeing the products even when it was 5 minutes past 1. I kept the solitary shawl aside (to see later) when the staff actually wanted to go for lunch. There was also knitted stuff, and AWWA Asha cards, some SOS cosmetics and also Purkul Stree Shakti products.

Heritage Walk in Ranikhet

We begin our walk in the Cantt. area in Ranikhet and lose the main road. It is pleasing to walk in the dense greenery and we cross Rani Jheel from where the gently ascending trail begins. We cross a few crumbling and dilapidated Churches on the way; Canossa Convent School, and the walking trail ends at Ranikhet Club. We are happy to amble under a verdant canopy of deodhar, walnut, chestnut, oak, pine and cypress trees.

Ranikhet Club is a regal building established in 1884 and is located on The Mall Road. The dining room, bar, interiors with fireplaces, rooms overlooking expansive patches of greenery and a lawn tennis court are wonderful spaces. I really like this part of Ranikhet and it surely must be the quietest Mall Road I have ever visited!

Ranikhet was a summer establishment for the British since the late 1860’s before it became home to Kumaon Regiment after independence. Since Ranikhet is a cantonment town, construction is not permitted and that ensures Ranikhet doesn’t look like a concrete jungle like most other popular hill stations turn into. In the present day, it is a mountain town dominated by the Army Cantonment area that gives Ranikhet its unique character.

We continue walking on The Mall and are transported back in time with Army Guest Houses, old lampposts, rhododendron trees in bloom (in January!), heritage hotels, old estates and bungalows, and the air smelling of eucalyptus trees. It is quite refreshing to see a fresh growth of greenery in the dense jungle, a testament to how strict Ranikhet is with regards to the tree cover.

We go to Chevron Rosemount – which is a nice heritage property. The garden is a great place to sit with cast iron chairs, and the immaculately maintained lawn makes for a great lunch idea in the winter sunshine. Since we are carrying an elaborate picnic lunch setup with us, we continue our explorations of Ranikhet.

Even though The Mall Road walk is on a road, there is no car that passes us by in the 4-5 kilometres walk. The road joins the main road at West View Hotel and we see a signboard that Nehru also walked here. We set out for a picnic lunch near Chaubatia and find a secluded sunny spot under the pine trees. It is around 330 pm and the breeze blowing is already quite cold. On our way back we cross the Jhula Devi Temple lined with bells.

There are a number of hiking trails in Ranikhet and we spot the jungle paths in the Cantt. area and also near the West View Hotel and Jhula Devi Temple. Ranikhet seems like a lovely town for a longer stay!

We spread the dhurrie and unpack the bamboo basket. It feels like a treasure hunt as I am not aware of the menu. My joy knows no bounds when I am served delicious methi puri, black chana, jhangora (barnyard millet) khichdi, spicy pumpkin with jakhiya, and the signature Nayalap chilly pickle. It is akin to a feast and after trying to click the perfect instagram shot, we dig in! The food is yummy and the picnic setup is perfect.

If you are in the region, I highly recommend exploring Ranikhet with the Nayalap folks! It is a perfect way that Ranikhet should be seen, on foot.

We begin our return journey from Ranikhet and cross the majestic evening sights in Majkhali. A surreal sunset seems to be brewing and we catch glimpses of the valley view on our return. We stop at a bamboo artist near Sitlakhet – he is a gifted guy and makes excellent stuff from bamboo. Nayalap works with him and you can buy products handcrafted in bamboo like a magazine stand, coasters, fruit box, lamps etc from their website.

Hike to Syahi Devi Temple

The Nayalap folks had saved the best for the last! On our last evening – we start our drive at around 330 pm and reach the parking place ahead of Forest Rest House by around 415 pm. There are three different trails to go to Syahi Devi temple, and all of them are well marked. We decide to take a round hike by walking on one trail and coming via a different one. It is quite interesting to know that the locals have named some of the houses – Bhutan, Singapore, Nainital courtesy of the connection that these house owners have with these places!

The trail to Syahi Devi temple passes through dense pine and oak forests. The temple is located at an altitude of approximately 2300m. There is a nice opportunity for birding enthusiasts here and the trail is accessible throughout the day. On the way to Syahi Devi temple we also came across many fruit orchards for which Sitlakhet was well known at one point of time. On a clear day it is possible to have a majestic view of the Himalayas and see all the way till the mountains of Nepal.

Tanuja shows us lichens growing on trees in an upper part of the trail, lichens usually grow in cold areas with zero air pollution. For the uninitiated, lichens are also used in Hyderabadi biryani. After crossing one fence, we enter someone’s private estate and spot rosemary and local tea leaves growing. Some locals inform us that they practice mushroom farming, and one house even has an essence making unit.

We continue to the temple and cross a few houses located on the sides of the hill that comprise Syahi Devi village. There are young kids playing basketball in surreal evening light. The forest department has put nice signboards on the nature trail, and a signboard at the temple informs us that Swami Vivekananda meditated for 4 days at Syahi Devi Temple. We pay our respects at the temple and sit for a while.

The Syahi Devi temple is locally revered and surprisingly looks newly built. The house adjacent to the temple seems quite old and the door frame there has been carved in stone itself. There are a few shops selling religious paraphernalia and also a few houses of the residents. The locals believe that Syahi Devi temple was built more than 200 years ago.

It is time to be enthralled by the magic of nature – We witness a surreal sunset from a high ridge that is a 10 minute walk from Syahi Devi temple. The sun is setting behind the hills, and we have hot tea in thermos as we savour the sight of the sun going behind the mountains. The after-sunset colours are also very nice but since it would get dark soon, we start our hike back through a different trail. It is all downhill and we make it to the car in good time.

We cross Bora Estate, and Pine Cliff Youreka Camp, a property – Anant Rasa and some more recently built cottages. The way downhill is pretty easy and passes through a stunning dense forest and we reached the car in semi-darkness.

How to reach Sitlakhet?

Distance of Sitlakhet from Ranikhet is 30 kms. Distance from Sitlakhet to Almora is 36 kms. Shared sumos and buses ply for Sitlakhet from both these towns. If direct buses/shared taxis are not available, then Kosi is the junction from where shared taxis to Sitlakhet will be available. From Delhi, reaching Sitlakhet will take approximately 10 hours.

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The distance from Mussoorie to Landour is a mere 5 kms but it feels like a different world. There is poetry in every aspect of Landour; from the music of the wind through the deodar trees to the stories of the heritage structures dotting the hillsides. It has retained its unique British Cantonment flavour; with heritage Churches, circular walking paths with (almost) zero traffic. The no-new construction policy means that Landour doesn’t seem to change character even as the decades pass by.

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If I woke up in a stupor and was airdropped to Landour, it could be 2015 or 2025 and I wouldn’t be able to tell! 

We were picked up early in the morning from Dehradun ISBT and as soon as we crossed Rajpur, the cool breeze of Mussoorie soothed the May heat. And thereby we were blessed to not get stuck in a traffic jam while reaching Rokeby Manor as the pick-up car was deftly manoeuvred on gravity-defying slopes on one of the many shortcuts on the road to Landour. We were quickly ushered to our room; it was proper chilly in Landour! The weather was crisp as we loved sipping chai in the serene flowery setting of ‘The Tea Garden’.

Rokeby Manor – An integral part of Landour

Rokeby Manor was originally built in 1840 and is named after a poem written by Sir Walter Scott. Its wood and stone interiors embody Landour’s soul and charm while the modern amenities truly make the mansion an elegant boutique heritage hotel. Rokeby Manor gives guests a homely feel, and cosy Victorian fireplaces lend it an inviting and warm character.

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Rokeby Manor has changed many owners since 1840 and was also owned by Frederick ‘Pahari’ Wilson, a British soldier who acquired a legendary status in these parts!  The in-house restaurant and café – Emily’s is named after writer Emily Eden who wrote many memoirs in Landour. Rokeby Manor is full of colonial touches with renovated rooms and fine gardens overlooking the Doon valley.

Among the most memorable experiences on offer at Rokeby are – Watch the after-sunset colours while sipping on a cuppa in the Tea Garden, read a book in historical Wilson’s Chamber, savour Rokeby Sticky Toffee Pudding in Emily’s and buy a local souvenir in the shop.

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Life in Landour 

Days in Landour are spent gazing at the sky – on long walks among cozy old cottages, the evocative eeriness of the deodhar & pine trees, to see the landscape burst into colours during sunset time, and marvel at the twinkling lights of the Doon valley in the night. Sometimes one may get lucky and get an occasional view of the mighty Himalayan peaks from Lal Tibba. Landour is an apt place to take long walks, detours and purposely get lost.

Landour is best explored on foot. The walk is circular and is also referred to as the Landour Chakkar where one ends up at the starting point after completing the walk. The trail begins from Char Dukan and continues to Landour’s farthest end – Sister’s Bazaar. After the first home in Landour was established in 1827, a convalescent depot of soldier’s was established and with it the nurses’ camp, also known as sister’s bazaar. There are only 2 shops at Sister’s Bazaar, one is a small general store and another one is A. Prakash & Co.

The absence of traffic is a delight since hardly any tourists make it to Landour. Recent popularity through blogs and social media has meant the presence of a few day trippers in Landour that mostly make it to either Char Dukan or Landour Bakehouse. The absence of vehicles makes me very happy; I can walk at my own pace without worrying about the fumes that trouble my breathing pattern. The joy of exploring Landour lies entirely in walking around on foot; there are different experiences to be had on morning walks; while an evening sunset walk can reveal the famous winterline with a dazzling array of colours.

An interesting feature on the Landour chakkar walk, there are monkey-proof steel cans being used as dustbins with quotes on nature. It ensures that everyone goes back from Landour with nature conservation and cleanliness on their minds.

I noticed an acronym on a dustbin – KLEEN (Keep Landour’s Environment and Ecology Natural). Landour’s residents have adopted KEEN (Keeping the Environment Ecologically Natural), a solid-waste management programme that has been keeping the Landour Cantonment area of Mussoorie clean since 1995.

History of Landour

In the early 19th century, the Britishers moved their military sanatorium to the higher altitude hill-station of Landour. The cool air was apparently perfect for the homesick English soldiers. Landour is steeped in history and has an unmistakeable colonial charm. Many of the cottages of Landour are built in the Tudor style and one can spot names on signboards such as Ivanhoe, Kenilworth, Waverly, Woodstock, Shamrock etc.

The first home in Landour was built in 1825 by Captain Frederick Young and was named  ‘Mullingar’ after the Irish town from where Captain Young hailed from. Landour is a tiny town bathed in an old fashioned aura with colonial-era bungalows that sport slanting roofs, with brick arches and stone walls. The minimal population means that silence is the norm in Landour and the ample tree cover ensures invigorating fresh breezes.

Landour’s success lies in the fact that it is one of the very few Indian holiday destinations to have escaped massive construction & development. Since it is a Cantonment space, strict regulations ensure that no new permanent structures can be built; only old structures can be renovated. Some locals famously talk about a few celebrity houses that were taken down midway during construction.

For many decades, Landour remained an exclusive British preserve. Even the elite Indians and ruling classes were confined to Mussoorie where the Maharajas of many small and big kingdoms were encouraged to build grand summer homes in Mussoorie. Among the notable ones are the summer homes made by rulers of princely states like Alwar, Baroda, Jind, Rajpipla, Kapurthala. Most of these erstwhile summer homes have now been converted into heritage hotels.

Emily’s at Rokeby Manor 

Emily’s can be said to be the heart and soul of Rokeby Manor. One can build grand structures and design fabulous restaurants but they all count for nothing if the food served is not otherworldly good! And every meal at Emily’s becomes an occasion to cherish as an art of perfection.

Emily’s is located on the first floor of Rokeby Manor and the interiors give the feel of being in an alpine log house. There’s a variety of sitting spaces; with tables and chairs and cushions for relaxed afternoons. We chose to sit outside (4 table space in a shaded balcony) usually during the afternoons to enjoy the sunshine and the breeze. In the interiors, the highlights include interesting signboards with quirky one liners.

Emily’s buffet breakfasts are the stuff of legends. Freshly baked breads with a variety of homemade jams, butter, and cookies are laid out in ‘The Wilson Chamber’ surrounded with books. There are options for pancakes, waffles, paranthas and a whole lot of other delicacies. I found the chocolate shake to be especially good during breakfast! Emily’s used to be our favourite haunt in Landour on previous visits since at Rs. 500 per person, the breakfast is fairly priced.

Emily’s serves both continental and Indian food and even though the menu is limited, the exquisiteness lies in the perfection. I was highly impressed with the loaded baked potatoes, the mezze basket, ratatouille, risotto among other things. When I tried the Indian food, I had a newfound awe for Emily’s. I’m sure the pasta, snacks and burgers are very good too! The desserts are addictive; the Baked blueberry cheesecake was tasty without being dense and its better that I don’t dream about Emily’s special – the heavenly Rokeby sticky toffee pudding (lest I start rushing to Landour right away!).

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Landour Bakehouse

Landour Bakehouse is located at the circular loop at Sister’s Bazaar. Landour Bakehouse is a recent addition to Rokeby Manor’s offerings and was established sometime in 2013 or 2014. It has quickly become a crowd favourite as a lot of tourists from Mussoorie visit Landour Bakehouse for desserts and coffee. The interiors of this quaint bakehouse are tastefully done and some quotes and memorable one-liners are put up in the form of signboards. Landour Bakehouse reminds one of an old hill cabin and the aroma of freshly baked bread and coffee is intoxicating.

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The recipes here have been made suitable to local conditions and compiled in a book by the name of Landour Cookbook. Landour Bakehouse’s menu reflects these dishes. Among my recommended eats here are the breads, eclair, walnut pie, bread and butter pudding, crepes. The ginger lemon honey tea and hot chocolate taste best on chilly evenings. Grab one of the last tables that overlook the towering pine trees.

The Little Salon & Spa Shed

Located under a huge tree is Rokeby Manor’s salon and spa where highly trained staff offer a range of treatments; from massages to scrubs, even haircuts and facials are possible. And even though it is expensive; I would say it is absolutely value for money for the kind of top class services provided.

Stübli & The Ale House

Stübli is (was) a alpine restaurant made in a Swiss log cabin style. I was enamoured by the setting and the specialised food on my first visit in 2015. It has since been closed down (for reasons unknown, but maybe the construction laws of Landour) and does not exist in the present time.

Similarly, The Ale House is (was) a member’s only drinking space made in the manner of a British/Scottish Ale House and had wonderful interiors.

A. Prakash & Co. 

A. Prakash & Co. is perhaps the only shop in Landour! It is located on Sister’s Bazaar and is adjacent to Landour Bakehouse. It is well known for its jams, different variety of cheese and peanut butter. Eminent personalities like Ruskin Bond and Jawaharlal Nehru and his descendents have been his loyal customers. My favourites here are the marmalade, apricot jam, strawberry preserve, plum jam and the goat cheese and gouda. Their bread is also very good and one can buy to carry it back home.

Anil Prakash is the owner of A. Prakash & Co. It was established in the 1920s by his grandfather. It was bought into the limelight by Inder Prakash (Anil’s father) who learnt cheese-making and the expertise of jam making and bought a machine to make peanut butter. The most epic lines concerning A. Prakash & Co. are when Ruskin Bond remarked, ‘If Prakash’s doesn’t have it, you probably don’t need it!’

Clock Tower Café, Landour Bazaar 

The Clock Tower Café has been built in an architectural style akin to the iconic Landour Clock Tower (it was demolished a few years ago due to a shaky structure) and is located on the crowded Landour Bazaar Road. The café’s interiors are done in red-brick colour and it serves both Italian and Chinese food. The seating arrangements are casual and the corner tables have great views.

Clock Tower Café’s menu has been designed keeping in mind the choices of students that study in various boarding schools in and around Mussoorie. Therefore the decor is vibrant, complete with posters and kitschy lights in an open kitchen. I quite liked their pizzas and have also been recommended their Chinese dishes.

Char Dukan 

Around 1840, four shops were established to cater to the needs of foreigners enrolled at the Landour Language School, adjacent to St. Paul’s Church. That is how Char Dukan got its name. Today, there are about five or six shops but the area is still called Char Dukan.

Anil’s Café and Vipin’s Tip Top Tea Shop were the first ones to start serving snacks and beverages in the year 1910. Spending time at Char Dukan is a nostalgic way to see the world go by and it is also the only place in Landour where one may see a sizeable number of people in one place. My favourite eats at Char Dukan have been bun omelette, fresh waffles, pancakes washed down with immaculate ginger lemon honey tea. I’m not a maggi fan but have noticed tourists wolfing down maggi at char dukan; it must be good.

Other notable eateries in & around Landour

Café Ivy

If you must, go here only for the sunset views. Inspite of being highly recommended, Café Ivy wasn’t able to fulfil my expectations and whatever we tried on a previous visit turned out to be a failure. What Café Ivy does have is the best sunset view in all of Landour, and Mussoorie. There is indoor seating and outdoor seating; arrive around 30 minutes before sunset time to make sure you grab the right table and are ready when the show begins!

As the sun goes behind the hills, the colours in the sky begin to change – I noticed hues of orange, pink, red, gold and, maybe purple as well. Landour’s summer sunsets are good and the winter sunsets bring in more drama with a phenomena of winterline. It has been mentioned that this winterline occurrence is only seen in Mussoorie and a particular place in Switzerland.

Little Llama Café

Little Llama Café is one of the current favourites in Mussoorie and is not situated in Landour. Its owners are a married couple who moved back to their hometown Mussoorie and decided to open this cute little café. Their interiors and décor is a mix of blue and grey and has an unspoken yet welcoming feel.

I noticed on a recent visit that the original 4 table restaurant has now become a two-floor restaurant with more than 15 tables. It is best to visit Little Llama Café for lunch on a weekday to avoid crowds and traffic. I highly recommend their wood-fired pizzas.

Doma’s Inn – Café

Located close to Landour Bazaar, Doma’s Inn is a place that you can’t miss. It has a vibrant look with a painted dragon on the outside wall. On my first visit, I had thought that Doma’s Inn is a Tibetan place looking at the lights and Thangka Paintings. The interiors at Doma’s Inn Café are colourful and are full of souvenirs from across India and the world. There are many vintage bollywood posters as well.

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Doma’s Inn Café makes great momos and serves authentic Tibetan and Chinese food.

Kalsang Café for the Devil’s momos and Chick Chocolate Café for the varieties of hot chocolate are also recommended. 

Ruskin Bond 

Landour is home to a lot of celebrities; including author Ruskin Bond (this, everyone knows!), Bill Aitken, Stephen Alter, Ganesh Saili, actor Victor Banerjee, the late Tom Alter and Vishal Bhardwaj among other distinguished names. Rokeby Manor also sometimes arranges for a meet up with the most popular personality of Landour – Ruskin Bond. It is also possible to meet him at the Cambridge Book Store in Mussoorie every Saturday from 1500 hrs to 1700 hrs.

Lal Tibba

On the Landour chakkar walk, Lal Tibba is the highest viewpoint to watch the sunset in Landour. On a clear day, there are views of Himalayan peaks like Bandarpunch. Two cafés also welcome visitors to Lal Tibba and there’s a telescope installed on the rooftop of one of the cafés to enable a closer view of the Himalayan mountain ranges.

Churches of Landour

St Paul’s Church

St. Paul’s Church was built in 1839 and is primarily well-known as the place where Jim Corbett’s parents got married. It is a building done in bright yellow and has a huge bell on top of the Church. Sunday mass is a great time to visit it.

Kellogg Memorial Church

Outsiders are not allowed to enter the gates of the Kellogg Memorial Church. I was informed that sometimes Sunday Mass is held at the church but it is not possible for tourists to attend it. Hence it is better to marvel at this stone structure from afar and enjoy the tranquil environment at the crossroad.

Landour Language School 

Located in the same premises as the Kellogg Memorial Church, Landour Language School was established as a school to teach Hindi to missionaries. It remains a top institute for foreigners who wish to learn Hindi.

Jabarkhet Nature Reserve

I had first heard about Jabarkhet Nature Reserve in 2015 but had never been able to wean myself away from Landour even on subsequent visits. And when I finally made it to Jabarkhet Nature Reserve on this visit with Rokeby Manor, it turned out to be well worth the wait. It is a heartwarming place sure to delight any wildlife and nature lover. Jabarkhet is Uttarakhand’s first private nature reserve and is spread over 300 acres.

A local guide Virendra who has been part of the project since its inception, took us for a walk inside Jabarkhet Nature Reserve and shared details about the flora and fauna. There are many walking trails in the reserve and depending on the time of the day and the season Virendra can suggest which one to take. He has loads of information on plants and birds and was instrumental in us listening to the drumming of a woodpecker in the woods. I was especially happy with the pin-drop silence and pristine air.

Virendra also showed us the camera traps and the recent footage showed that a leopard and Himalayan brown bear had crossed the area in the last 3-4 days. Jabarkhet Nature Reserve is a classic model of conservation and sustainable development, especially for urban areas grappling with the need of fresh air.

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Cost for entry : INR 350 per person & Guided walk : INR 500 per person, hence it is better to go for the guided walk. 

Walks around Landour & Mussoorie

Cemetery on Camel’s Back Road

The cemetery on Camel Back Road, named after the camel-shaped rocky outcrop, is the resting place of many important souls. Among the ones resting here is Frederick ‘Pahari’ Wilson. He also briefly owned Rokeby Manor and was the inspiration behind Rudyard Kipling’s tale ‘The Man Who Would Be King’.

Sir George Everest’s House

Mussoorie was home to Sir George Everest, who was the Surveyor General of India between 1830–43. He is largely responsible for the Great Trigonometrical Survey of India that also included the measurement of the world’s highest peaks. Sir George Everest House is a whitewashed home in ruins located at the edge of a cliff near Hathipaon. Views of the Doon Valley are spectacular from here, especially during sunset. It is a nice area to walk in the bliss of nature.

Happy Valley, the first Tibetan settlement in India 

In 1959, when Tibet was occupied by China, the Dalai Lama and his followers walked across the Himalayas to reach India. Happy Valley became the first Tibetan settlement in India when Dalai Lama came here in 1959.

Interiors at Rokeby Manor – A very homely space

Rokeby Manor and the eateries; Emily’s, Landour Bakehouse are owned by Mumbai-based Mars Hospitality Group, which is run by brother and sister duo of Sanjay and Rachna Narang. Sanjay is a woodstock alumni with special attachment to Landour. Rachna Narang is an interior designer and it is her quirky sense of humour and attention to detail that has imparted oodles of character to Rokeby Manor and the entire town of Landour too!

Also check : Do yourself a favour! Go to Landour

A long weekend in Mussoorie – Explorations & Walks

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Chapslee has an evocative air to it and is one of the oldest houses in Shimla.

The Kalka – Shimla Toy Train 

It was deemed fitting that we arrive in Shimla by the charming UNESCO World Heritage Kalka Shimla ‘toy train’. We reach Kalka at 3 in the night. The petite toy train to Shimla is supposed to depart at 6 am. The full moon was beckoning to me to take the train from Kalka to Shimla instead of the bus.

Although the train journey from Delhi to Shimla (Delhi-Kalka and Kalka-Shimla) took much longer (12-13 hours) as compared to taking a direct bus (9-10 hours), the grand views, bridges, tunnels and quaint colonial style stations made this train journey interesting. The samosa and refreshments at Barog station in the cool air was a welcome break!

Read : A lesser known ‘Himalayan toy train’

Hallmarks of Staying at Chapslee

A Family of Friendly Labradors

It is fun to walk in the garden with the snoozing dogs for company. Tara (a golden retriever) and Thunder (a black labrador) and their two kids (both labradors) lie in the sun all day long. They lend a very happy vibe and homely feel to the place. Plus, these gentle dogs are pure love!

Chapslee – A Palace steeped in History

Chapslee was originally constructed in 1830 by an East India Company official. It was built in the local architecture style called ‘dhajji‘; which enables the interiors to remain warm during winters and cool during summers. Chapslee was used for many official purposes, and among them it served as Lord Auckland’s secretariat during his tenure as Governor General of the East India Company.

Raja Charanjit Singh of Kapurthala purchased Chapslee in 1938. His grandson, Kanwar Ratanjit Singh opened the doors to Chapslee Palace in 1976 to make it the 8^th heritage hotel in India.

Check : An expert guide to Shimla

Artistry with Food – Cooked to Perfection and Served in Regal Style 

Raja Charanjit Singh was an eminent food connoisseur and Chapslee quickly became well known for the esteemed gatherings.

The finesse with which food is presented at Chapslee is quite incredible and charming. I gobble up insane portions of the apple crumble (made with fresh apples from Kinnaur). The spinach and baked egg is quite easily the best I’ve ever had. There is no menu here at Chapslee; who cares about that when the food is this good!

Dinner is served in silver cutlery that transports one to India’s glorious times. Personal butlers are close at hand, without being intrusive. Bed tea comes in fine bone china, while the evening tipple means a cupboard filled with elegant glasses is opened.

Read : An insider’s guide to Cafés & Shopping in Shimla

Seemingly away from it all… and yet Conveniently Close

I feel as if I’m living in a parallel world, away from the hustle and bustle of the mall road of Shimla (Or Simla). Chapslee lies in the heart of the old town in Shimla and most of the heritage sights are within a dimension of 3-4 kms from this haven of calm. The well known Chapslee School is close-by too.

I wasn’t particularly fond of Shimla and called it the ‘concrete jungle’; until the charms of slow travel took over. Shimla is best explored on foot; and Chapslee is the perfect place to begin the heritage walks showcasing British architecture.

Luxury like a King & Queen at Chapslee 

Luxury has different meanings for different people; and after having stayed at Marina Bay Sands in Singapore I had more or less realised that closed indoor air conditioned rooms didn’t really give me a ‘wow’ feel. Instead, solace was found in homestays which were more connected to the soul of a place and were owned by locals. It also gave me a happy feeling of contributing to the local community and also soaking in the culture.

A Living Legend – Kanwar Ratanjit Singh

Kanwar Ratanjit Singh (‘Reggie’ as he is called by those known to him) is a man who has clear opinions. Reggie says “To maintain the spirit of heritage, it is very important to use the place for the purpose for which it was actually built“; and that is why he has opened the doors of his home to visitors.

Sharing drinks in the evening in the dazzling grandeur of the living room and listening to stories from his childhood was one of my most memorable experiences of the evenings spent at Chapslee. The description of his school going days during the British times take one back to the days of yore. His fascination to retain his grandfather’s lifestyle, has resulted in Chapslee being included in the book ‘1000 Places to See Before you Die‘ by Patricia Schultz.

Nature and Flower Love while watching Shimla’s mist

The lush green courtyard also doubles up as an open air sitting space, best enjoyed for high tea. There is also a garden room full of petite flower pots; and a sizeable amount of my time at Chapslee was spent here – dreaming.

Read : A Comprehensive Guide to Kinnaur

The gardens with a lovely variety of flowers make it a beautiful alfresco sitting area. Even for an explorer like me, the thought of sitting and watching the clouds engulf Shimla is enticing – I choose to sit in the garden sipping a fine variety of Darjeeling Tea. It feels great to be able to think clearly and pen down my thoughts; which is a rare commodity in the chaotic world as a digital media nomad these days.

Unmatched Hospitality

Kanwar Ratanjit Singh’s hospitality and genuineness is visible in the efforts he takes to make your stay as memorable as possible. Right from recommending the sights, to exploring the hidden corners and long walks to nearby hillocks; to cooking your favourite delicacy, he makes sure everything is taken care of. He decided on special dishes in the menu everyday and prepared them himself to our delight; we could only lick our fingers in glee.

Our conversations continue in the very elegant Chota room, Reggie describes Chapslee as a very English / Scottish house, that has 6 rooms and each one different than the other. There is an untold joy in exploring this humongous castle type home – From the room furnishings to the joy of an open fire on chilly Shimla evenings. We can’t believe our luck when Reggie decides that we should be upgraded to The Luxury Suite (Raja Charanjit Singh’s room) which is also the best room in the house.

The staff appear smartly dressed with a Himachali cap. There are strategically placed bells around the interiors of Chapslee to summon the staff whenever required. Although this is the kind of place where wi-fi doesn’t matter, there is high speed internet at Chapslee.

Check : 2016 : A Year of Consolidation, Fulfilment and Paving the Way for a Lifetime of Travel

Antiques from around the World

The suite has 3 huge fire places (yes, 3!) that add to the opulent feel of staying in Chapslee. Momentarily I feel I am dreaming; it is indeed fortuitous for me to experience life in the museum like interiors of this heritage house.

Exquisite old paintings dating back to the British Era adorn the walls. Among the many riches here, there are intricately carved metal holders and cabinets from Venice, blue pottery vases from Multan (present day Pakistan). Persian & Afghan carpets and rugs cover the floor, chandeliers from Belgium and Italy hang about in the halls and lobby, and blue tiled fireplaces complete the fantasy.

Silence is Golden

The weathered wood at Chapslee tells many stories of grace and elegance, unmatched hospitality and flawless service. The decades of history associated means sophistication hangs delicately in the air. A soft glow and warmth flows out of its large beautiful windows offering me a view of the skies. In this fast paced world, sometimes calmness is associated with an eerie feel. Yet, at Chapslee the calmness is soothing.

The faded grandeur takes me back to the 19th Century, yet with all the modern comforts. In a place as fabled as Chapslee, you can bet that every visitor has an interesting story to tell. We meet IIM professors here and also a famous architect who was behind the restoration of the Gaiety Theatre in Shimla and also advisor to the restoration of Bhimakali Temple, Sarahan.

Read : Reminiscences from a two day snowfall

A Book Room (Yes, you read that right!)

The book lover in me swoons and a ‘love at first sight’ experience ensues with the well-stocked library. I spot first editions of a few books and an enviable coin collection. The reading room is a perfect set-up for perusing good old classics in a classy ambience. We enjoyed our time playing scrabble and had a trip down memory lane. There are also a few rare books to lay my hands upon!

Where you become a part of History

During the course of my stay at Chapslee Palace I feel like a time traveller at numerous points of time. Maybe the notion of time doesn’t exist here. Although the price of staying at Chapslee is steep, if you have an affinity for the good life; I’d suggest ‘go for it.’

Uttering the name ‘Chapslee’ seems sacrosanct, Kanwar Ratanjit Singh should be thanked for turning this home into a unique place to stay for lucky visitors for an experience like no other. Glittering with golden lights, antique furniture and a fine collection dating back to British times, Chapslee is an experience to remind one of the glorious royalty in the Imperial times of the Raj and put your name in the history books too! It is definitely one of the top places to stay in Shimla and also one of the best heritage hotels in India.

Ah, and now Reggie has asked me to come back when it snows.

Also check : Heaven in Himachal Pradesh

Note : My stay at Chapslee was in collaboration with PlushEscapes. Words, photographs, memories and opinions – as always, are my own. My reader’s and follower’s trust is of foremost importance – in short… You are my greatest priority.

Have other recommendations for great places to stay? Let me know.

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Last rays of the sun illuminate the snowy Himalaya, notice the moon rising through the narrow gap.
Clicked in Khajjiar.#TravelTuesday pic.twitter.com/B4vAGDxv9R

— Shubham Mansingka (@travelshoebum) October 4, 2016

Saying goodbye to 2015 in style!

After the epic wanderings of 2015, when more than 250 days were spent on the road; this was a year in which I moved in a decisive direction about making my travels financially sustainable without compromising on my style of travel. I experimented with a few trips and realised that the ‘doing’ a place in 3 days wasn’t my kind of life and hence graciously opted to say no to offers of travel.

Here, I attempt to embed my social media shares through the year. (Secretly hoping they work!) Ha ha.

This epic experience was published in HT Brunch Magazine.

The year started by attending the Jaipur Literature Festival and thereafter heading to Bundi and around for a slow holiday in this charming little town.

Bundi Café on the street.

After having explored Ladakh in the winters, I was keen on going to Spiti for a similar chilling experience and had a lovely time backpacking in buses and local transport. After my journey ended in March, it was known that I happened to be the only tourist to have made it to Losar village in the winters.

The road to Losar – In the winter.

A bout of craziness meant I walked from Jalori Pass to Shoja in the snow and stayed in Jibhi and attended some local festivals. My family joined in my wanderlust ways too and we headed to Pushkar for the colours of holi.

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Rhododendron flowers welcome trekkers on the trail to Triund in March.

My sister had been talking about a solo trip/trek forever and after she ended up going nowhere, the onus on me meant we went to McLeodganj and Triund for her first taste of the Himalaya (On her own.) It was quite nice when the experience turned out to be amazing even as snow flakes fell heavily on our trek.

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Khardung La in winter.

The little time I was in Jaipur was beautifully spent watching sunrises at Nahargarh Fort. I was pleasantly surprised to notice that Jaipur shines blue before the sun lights up the earth. It was already summer and brief visits to the hills happened. Orchha had beckoned for long and it was finally time for me to savour a visit to this ruined Kingdom.

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Music transcends boundaries.

The fairytale of Gushaini welcomed me for most of May and I had an unforgettable time trekking in pristine Great Himalayan National Park and bathing in the Tirthan river. A crazy decision meant reaching Mussoorie after travelling for almost 24 hours and Landour provided much needed solace.

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A homestay in the secret villages of Parvati Valley.

In between, Corbett National Park was visited and it was beautiful to see the clouds signal the onset of monsoon in India. I trekked to Kheerganga in Parvati valley and was disappointed with the crowds and was glad on finding a cute homestay in the hidden villages away from the world. (Haven’t yet managed to write about these places!)

Photography skills in the Himalaya

Heavenly scenes in the remote Pangi Valley.

My favourite month of July brought the air of high Himalaya with it as I spent it on the road backpacking across Saach Pass to the remote Pangi Valley. I felt unparalleled joy after exploring the few villages of Pangi Valley & the even more beautiful Miyar Valley. It was time for another epic adventure in the form of reaching Lahaul and then reaching Ladakh (Changthang) by hitchhiking in a truck. It was pure luck to receive rides, day after day and I ended up hitchhiking my entire time in the Changthang.

The wondrous roads in the ‘land of the lamas’.

Hitchhiking with the Lt. Colonel in Ladakh.

There was an epic failure of a day too, on that journey – when my brain had gone for a holiday. I travelled and walked all day and ended up very close to roughly where I had started. Sane stuff prevailed after this and I salvaged the rest of my trip.

Beauty on the Kashmir Great Lakes Trek.

And just when you thought it was enough, it was time to go to Kashmir to try and attempt going to the Great Lakes Trek. The tickets had been booked in a sale, and the tumultuous situation of the Burhani Wani curfew wasn’t enough for me to not go. In the end it turned out to be a life changing journey, fed by the love from strangers.

Kashmir in 4 pictures.

When the Gods summon you – At Amarnath.

Nandkhol Lake on the Kashmir Great Lakes Trek.

As much as I tried going to Kerala in the monsoons, the hills kept calling me and I was only happy with all the love in Uttarakhand. Excellent weather also meant it was a good time to see the historical sights of Delhi. A celebration was in order and it came in the form of a Chapslee experience in Shimla. Back home in Rajasthan, numerous trips through the year had me seeing Shekhawati in a different light.

Sunrise on the Ganges in Varanasi.

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Wow! Happily surprised with my portrait photography.

An invite from Uttar Pradesh Tourism meant I was in Varanasi for an event and then chose to stay and explore the ancient city on my own too. The experience was extraordinary and so epic that I am still struggling for words to pen it down. My fear of breathing issues was put to rest, I wore a mask and was rewarded with Diwali celebrations in Jaipur.

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Spectacular Diwali Lights of Jaipur.

The quirks of Jodhpur, Pali, the Bishnoi Villages, arts, crafts, bedsheets and opium ceremonies happened amidst the demonetisation drama and I barely just managed to scrape through to Jaisalmer. Lack of cash meant I slept at a dhaba at the Sam Sand Dunes and barely survived even though the experiences were fulfilling.

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Sunset on the sand dunes amid demonetisation worries.

A 10 rupee note was never spent better when an shared auto ride brought me to the hamlet of Khichan, near Phalodi – chiefly famous for the Khurja (Or demoiselle cranes). While I liked watching the cranes perform their collective antics, the unsung delight of Khichan was an entire lane of timeless havelis, all abandoned.

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Welcome to heaven, in Parvati Valley!

I started working with brands in 2015, and was happy to hear their feedback this year on my engagement on social media, which, according to them is excellent and quite similar to some of the top in the industry. Maybe it was because of the wholly organic following and sharing experiences on the road as they happened and the interactions. I had never thought I could live a dream life.

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Kasol in November.

Let me tell you it isn’t easy; travel blogging requires hard work and patience as well as quality. The payoffs won’t come in a jiffy and that only means the joy is even more sweeter when things finally start working. Like all good things in life, there is no substitute for hard work.

I want to thank each one of you for reading this. As a traveller and full time professional travel blogger, I prefer to share experiences rather than hanker after followers. After all, rushing at a breakneck speed isn’t really something I am good at.

It would be awesome if you can share your favourite travel posts in the comments Always happy to read nice content.

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The Doon Valley is shrouded in mist and like a new lover, teases me with a few subtle glimpses of the riches on offer as the road climbs higher to the hill station of Mussoorie. I open the window of my room as soon as I walk in and a steady gust of wind carries white mist with it. I rejoice; my heart sings. As a traveller, nothing makes me happier than being in the midst of nature and breathing clean and pure mountain air.

A pleasant afternoon walk was in the offing and we oblige.

The Historic Camel’s Back Road

This is a walk only road as vehicles are not allowed during the day; it begins near the Picture Palace and ends near Library Chowk (Kulri Bazaar) through Camel’s Back. This road takes its name from a rocky outcrop in the shape of a camel’s hump. We pass the skating rink that is housed in a hotel. There is a cemetery that looks like a church; apparently it is more than 150 years old!

Away from the hustle and bustle of mall road, we see the delights of Uttarakhand. Water chestnuts vie for our attention, while we walk among the load bearing Nepalis. It must have been the salubrious air of this pretty hill town that attracted the British. The day had begun with a mist so fierce that someone might have felt it would never ever clear. But like life’s troubles get over with time, the sun too makes an appearance and breaks through the clouds and shoos them away. 

Plenty of rain falls in these parts lending the pavements a generous coating of moss. We see various kinds of oak and rhododendron trees devoid of the flower that the tree is more widely known for. Brightly coloured houses peek through the lush greenery and are sometimes hidden from view until I am directly in front of them. A smattering of dhabas and chowmein joints informs that we have reached Camel’s Back.

I don’t usually believe the touristy shenanigans but am pleasantly surprised to spot a rock shaped as a camel’s back. School kids vrooming on their new scooters is the only traffic we encounter. Peace messages adorn signboards when we pass the Nirankari Baba Ashram. Various viewpoints called ‘Hawa Mahal’ have been installed at many points along the road; it is a great place to sit and enjoy the sights at your own pace.

On the other side of the valley, clouds rise like cotton balls amidst the few houses nestled among the greens. Dusk falls and incredible sunset colours dominate the sights. The snowy peaks give us a brief chance to see their splendour. Near Library Chowk the trail joins the Mall Road, families jostle to buy tickets at The Ritz (Mussoorie’s only movie theatre). We pass the famous little eatery – Lovely Omelette Centre at Kulri Bazaar; it has already downed shutters for the day.

The cable car that takes visitors to Gun Hill is to our right, along with a pretty stone structure with statues of Freedom Fighters. Lights at the mall road glitter while we walk back in the serenity of darkness.

Where did I wake up? In Paradise… perhaps!

As soon as I wake up and let the window ajar, fog enters my abode. I quite like this setting of bright colours sprinkled with yellow and blue.

A walk in the misty forest would later turn out to be one of the highlights of Mussoorie.

George Everest House & Haathipaon Walk

The car drops us in the middle of a path that ends abruptly in the dense forest. We are supposed to walk towards Haathi Paon near George Everest House (Mt. Everest was named after him.) Sir George Everest was the first Surveyor General of India and was largely responsible for a big section of the Great Trigonometrical Survey of India.

It is the perfect weather for a leisurely stroll while breathing in the aroma of the forest. Moss is a dominating feature on the trees and the dark shade of green is a delight for greenery starved eyes. It is only fitting that in this fairytale kind of weather, we come upon the sight of a wishing well! Legend has it that if a coin falls directly in the water without hitting the walls, the thrower’s wish was fulfilled.

Local Garhwali women fill water from the well to be carried to their faraway homes and cheerfully exchange greetings. There is a dhaba amid scenic beauty near the well but the owners are nowhere to be seen, and our hopes of having chai in the mist quickly fade away. The sun (as if on cue) makes its way through as we walk to see a lone tower stand atop a hillock. It is an annexe to the George Everest House.

The house itself is in a shabby shape and might wear a haunted look if no one is around. Graffiti is scribbled on the walls and Langurs abound. Locals tell me that a new year music festival held at the George Everest House was quite a hit! There is also the Benong Bird Sanctuary for bird lovers.

A nearby hillock is piled with fluttering prayer flags; young lovers loiter around the two cafés that are in the vicinity. We walk a descending path to sight a very competitive cricket match that is in progress on a flat stretch of a beautiful green ground surrounded by pine trees.

We also see the other side of the elephant mountain (Haathipaon). It is very chilly as blustery winds blow while trees laden with walnuts sway furiously. On our way back, I sight a colossal structure (British looking) owned by the family of Kapurthala; it looks like an English Castle. It was built in 1899 and is known as The Kapurthala Estate. Sadly, entry is a restricted affair and I am denied a closer look at this wonderful delight from yesteryear.

We are happy to be back watching the fog envelop Mussoorie;  from the warm confines of my suite. I had gotten excited at the mention of a hundred year old house made of wood in a nearby town and had expressed a desire to visit it. Traditional architecture has always appealed to me; it also tells a lot about the culture and history of a place.

A Timeless Himalayan Village – Bhatoli

A short 20 km downhill drive on the Chakrata-Tiuni road brought us to the village of Bhatoli. Maize fields surround the 25 houses of Bhatoli, a gurgling stream flows, clouds make merry on a nearby mountain even as the sun shines in glee. We walk to the house of one Mr. Sanwal.

There it stood, proud and taut and hardly gave away its 100 year old status. The wooden pillars had been painted afresh and gave the house a different look. Once inside, I was astounded to see sliding windows from a century ago. The base was made with stones and mud and was used as a storage place while the part where the family lived was made entirely out of Deodhar wood. (Literally wood of the gods.) Corn is left to dry and hangs everywhere on the strings giving the village a unique character.

Typically, the height of these houses is low and one has to stoop through the gates to get in. We were in to have our wishes fulfilled (remember the wishing well) and the family welcomes us with tasty and sweet steamed corn. Life goes on unchanged in the villages and it is a pleasant delight to see the slow pace of life in Bhatoli village. We pass the touristy Kempty Falls on our way back, the waters of which have swollen by the bountiful monsoons.

The drive is pure adventure in the dark, the fog makes sure that visibility is reduced to barely ten feet. The road twisting and turns, a song on the radio brings us to life. We scream and sing along in delight, the cab driver joins in the fun!

Back in Mussoorie, its a different view altogether, twinkling lights across the entire Doon Valley are visible in an unending panorama. Faint sound of loudspeakers indicates that celebrations of a hindu festival are underway. I snuggle into my warm bed and let the cool breeze lull me to sleep.

Erstwhile Heritage Structures of the British – Landour

The sun has finally triumphed in its battle with the clouds and I am privy to a spectacular bird’s eye view of Dehradun and the entire Doon Valley. The sky is a glorious colour of blue, nearby hills and heritage structures of Mussoorie are also visible. We walk toward the timeless British Cantonment Area of Landour and are pleased to see it as beautiful as always.

Mussoorie’s lush green hills and the iconic Woodstock School are visible as we make the circular walk from Char Dukaan to Lal Tibba while passing Sister’s Bazaar and the Christian Cemetery on the way. St. Paul’s Church shines in the bright sun; we stroll happily to see the beautiful Kellogg Church & Language School. I buy some jams at Prakash Uncle’s shop and happily smell coffee beans at Landour Bakehouse; everyone in Landour recognises me – courtesy of the four days spent here earlier this year.

Rokeby Manor’s owner, Mr. Sanjay Narang seemingly owns most of the land in Landour. Cute signboards near his newly built home inform us that it is indeed a charming cottage owned by Mr. Narang himself.

The beautiful house of Victor Banerjee named Parsonage wears a cheery feel. It is blissful among the whispering pines and views stretching as far away as Dehradun are clearly visible. On our way back, the car stops at Doma’s Inn and we are shown Mr. Ruskin Bond’s residence.

Entry to the cemetery is only allowed once a week. 

Quaint spaces in Landour, utterly charming and delightful.

Mosaic Hotel, Mussoorie : Located just before the parking at Picture Palace, Mosaic Mussoorie is the right kind of mix to explore Mussoorie at your own relaxed pace. It is an ideal choice for families and people looking for comfortable travel as cars are not allowed to drive any further on the Mall Road. A big mention for their Chef Mr. Dheeraj – I was enthralled by a tasty dish of the dreaded green leaf ‘Sisnu’ locally called bicchu ghaas and in English – stinging nettle. 

The above walks were guided and arranged by Mosaic Mussoorie. Depending on the season and weather, they offer options of ten walks in and Mussoorie for travellers to have a right mix of exploring Mussoorie even while staying in the vicinity of Mall Road. Various activities that they arrange except the above mentioned are food walks, short treks, bird watching, cycling, photo walks, picnics and other sights nearby. Their guides are well informed locals and have in depth knowledge of the area.

Disclaimer : I was at Mosaic Mussoorie on an invitation. The views shared here are my own and completely unbiased. My readers’ trust is my greatest priority.

For more travel stories, anecdotes and experiences connect with me on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram.

The air was heavy in anticipation of the much awaited monsoon that was supposed to be knocking on our doors. I was in the foothills of the Himalayas in the the quaint village of Dhikuli. We waited with bated breath for some respite from the balmy, almost unbearable weather. The mountains were shrouded in a cloak by the clouds. They say ‘Good things come to those who wait.’ After a night spent in coaxing the clouds, it was time to wake up to a green carpet. The rain gods had decided it was time to gently usher in happiness and impart a semblance of coolness to the surroundings.

Uttarakhand, like wine had began to enchant me – I had spent more than 2 months travelling around Kumaon last summer and just two weeks ago had returned from Landour.

Read : Binsar through my eyes

The road passed through a pretty dense forest to bring us near the Tiger Country of Corbett National Park. Men created magical music from Uttarakhand’s traditional form of ‘Tholia nrutya’ and womenfolk danced in Garhwali costumes. A herd of deer had apparently come to drink water, their eyes shined. It made me aware of a full moon night; a soft breeze blew across the lush garden. I felt like a character in a fairytale, a thin sliver of cloud cut the moon in half and with the swing made for a great photograph.

Next morning, the great outdoors welcomed me with wide open arms, I sipped chai on a wooden chair and table drinking in the full view of the astonishing cloud play in front of my eyes. I couldn’t believe my luck, there was no one else but me savouring the stunning show. Clouds floated dizzily, the hitherto dry riverbed of Kosi suddenly saw some movement of water and a horse came leisurely to complete a mesmerising picture.

Yoga on International Yoga Day

Yoga has a special significance in my life; I was an asthma ridden person once and in retrospect I attribute my positive energy and never-say-die attitude to yoga and meditation in Rishikesh. In the soothing serenity of the mountains, my lungs were raring to breathe in the calmness of the Himalayas. The yoga teachers were a jolly couple and happily started the day with a yummy ginger lemon honey tea (Incidentally my favourite drink in the mountains.) I was a bit skeptical about being able to successfully perform the intricate act of ‘Jal Neti’ but it was a pleasant surprise to get it right in the first go.

Jal Neti – Is performed with a vessel and you pour water in one nostril and bring it out from another. It helps in clearing out the sinuses and is responsible for a happy aftereffect.

With the majestic background of the Himalayas, there was a certain zen calm in the surroundings and with sun salutations, I almost began to fly in happiness. I could feel positive energy coursing through my veins after the short experiment with meditation.

I lounged around on the perfectly located swing and imagined that the clouds floated along and took me to a dreamy paradise. Dark clouds hovered and three of us decided to go on a small drive to an ancient temple nearby. Kosi river was in full flow after the downpour and devotees thronged from far and wide; we decided to walk to a hanging bridge instead. Couples and youth from nearby villages loitered and enjoyed full pleasure of the rainy season among beautiful sights. The shades of green were spectacular and we enjoyed our walk on the hanging bridge that swayed with the wind.

Jim Corbett National Park

After the media coverage of India’s dwindling tiger population in 1972 – Indira Gandhi initiated Project Tiger that coordinated with state governments and forest departments to work for tiger conservation. Jim Corbett National Park was established as the first national park in India with five zones for eco-tourism – Bijrani, Durgadevi, Dhela, Jhirna and Dhikala.

Tiger Safari

Corbett National Park would soon close for the monsoons, only to reopen in October and we were very keen on not letting this opportunity pass us by. Imran Khan – A staunch wildlife naturalist, was with us. He is a jolly fellow and is a pioneer in conservation, wildlife management and has been associated with Jim Corbett National Park for over 25 years. I listened in rapt attention to the amount of priceless knowledge being imparted and came to know of a big reason why forests should not be destroyed.

A natural forest produces 700 times more oxygen versus a man-made forest. 

It was almost 2 in the afternoon and with our bellies full, we jumped in the open air jeeps and roared into action. The day was pleasant and everyone was excited at the prospect of seeing a tiger. There was a queue at the entry gate, once inside it was just us and the jungle. Sunlight filtered through the tall trees and created unbelievable patterns; ants had created mountains of sand by the slender track. They looked like castles, it was a pretty sight – a jeep in front on a small road with trees surrounding us on both sides.

The drive passed through pretty scenery as we went farther and farther inside the jungle, the birds chirped as it drizzled intermittently. The smell of petrichor was rife in the air, we were delirious with happiness. We crossed numerous small streams on our bumpy yet enjoyable ride with spectacular vistas of clouds playing hide and seek with the mountains in the far distance.

Mr. Imran Khan also explained to us the economic worth of a tiger and how local communities benefit when tigers are conserved versus being poached. It was an informative discussion, my heart went out for tiger conservation by the end of it.

Luxury in the Himalayas

Great pleasure lay in diving into the pool while stark sunshine made the proceedings sultry. There were gazebos to lounge around while looking dreamily at the magically coloured landscape.  Special emphasis was made for lightly flavoured food and health food with minimal use of processed and packed ingredients. Bonsai were planted in dazzling symmetry, there was a waterfall fountain that looked even more beautiful in the midst of flowers on the trees. The cottages were so designed to give a feeling of isolation yet among the midst of nature and the pathway was well lit with beautiful warm lights in the night.

You can build the nicest place ever and watch it being turned to dust if the staff isn’t good. Therein lies the greatest tribute to Namah; I had lost my gold ring in the swimming pool and was quite perturbed at the loss. Within no time, the staff manager had dived into the pool and emerged with my ring. I was speechless in delight. Thats how honesty works and the staff had won my heart.

So I could see no tiger while at Corbett National Park but that wasn’t my whole objective of coming. The greatest pleasures in life lie in the unexpected delights that nature and life throw upon you. The monsoon had breathed a fresh lease of life and green in the landscape; I had watched the dry Kosi become a free flowing river again. I had a secret wish of watching the glorious sight of monsoon cover the landscape and I watched it all come together in Corbett.

If you are a nature lover and peaceful vacations are your thing, then Namah on the confines of Corbett National Park could be a fabulous weekend getaway from Delhi and a recommended place to stay when you are visiting Corbett. It is conveniently located on NH-121.

Disclaimer : I was at Namah on an invitation. All the views shared here are my own and completely unbiased. My readers’ trust is my greatest priority.

Read : Soul Searching in Rishikesh

After snoozing at ISBT for the best part of two hours; we were told buses to Mussoorie & other parts of Uttarakhand leave from the Railway Station. After a comedy with the queues and the futility of schedules, I found seats on the miniscule bus. We were jolted from our slumber after reaching the last stop at Mussoorie Library. After numerous trips to Mussoorie many years ago, I had only one word on my mind – Landour.

We strolled on the empty mall road, sipping chai while stupidly gawking at the white hail posing as snow. Locals warned us to take a cab and not attempt the uphill walk to Landour with our heavy bags. So, after more than 26 months on the road, I finally gave in and we paid 350 Rupees to a genteel taxi driver who dropped us from Picture Palace to Sister’s Bazaarin Landour. The road wound through narrow paths first crossing Landour Bazaar, then Char Dukan and finally leaving behind all civilisation to reach Sister’s Bazaar.

I was loving the chills in the air as Landour ridge near Sister’s Bazaar is the highest point in Mussoorie at 2286m. The Sister’s bazaar acquired its name from the nursing sisters who lived near the British Military Hospital that was established in Landour at the beginning of the 20th century.

It was quickly understood that there was no possibility of cheap accommodation in Landour. We had left hotels and guesthouses behind in Landour Bazaar & Char Dukaan. We roamed the empty road and took in the smell of fresh air, friendly labradors were out for their morning stroll too. After some conversations with the locals, they decided to make us lucky by giving us a huge 2 bedroom cottage with a kitchen for 1000 Rupees.

There were hardly any views due to the forest fires burning across Uttarakhand but that didn’t bother us. We walked among the dense forests, a mixture of cedar, oak and pine trees with beautiful messages hanging from signboards on the trees. We were in the most beautiful part of Landour and it was so tiny that the never ending walks turned out to be the best memory of our trip.

Read : My own episode of ‘Jailed Abroad’ in Garhwal Himalaya

The paths in Landour are circular and you generally end up where you start from. I was besotted by the lovely architecture at Landour Language School. The Kellogg Memorial Church was adjacent and the Sunday Mass was a lovely event. In between we passed by houses with pots hanging by the dozen. The word ‘wow’ was constantly on my lips. It was a mighty surprise to see snazzy cars, and people eat away at the street side food at Char Dukaan which turned out to be really good after we were tired wandering around St. Paul’s Church and perusing the stained Belgian glass used in the artistic windows.

The lack of views meant the two structures at Lal Tibba were devoid of tourists and the owners were asking people to go to the roof for free. Few taxis from Mussoorie do make their way to Lal Tibba ferrying tourists to check this point off a list. We were happy to scurry away from there, taking unknown paths to the entrances of various British era cottages and walking past the cemetery with ornate tombstones and epitaphs.

Read : Finding Paradise in Uttarakhand

It was a pretty sight to see sunlight filter through the dense forests, creating beautiful patterns while the clouds played with the far away mountains. In all likelihood Delhiites filled Mussoorie’s clogged streets and bickered about the crowd, we basked in the glory knowing what Mussoorie was all about.

Landour is the crown jewel of the queen of hill stations!

Read : An expert guide to Shimla

P.S: I have safely stored the phone number of that colonial cottage to be shared with interested folks.

I shall write detailed and informative posts about my experiences. Have you been to Mussoorie too? What did you make of it?

There was a chill in the air as it was the first week of January. I dragged my bags across the Ram Jhula to arrive at Parmarth Niketan Ashram before darkness descended. I was almost denied entry at the ashram but I guess fate had a role to play when a kind man inside the office of Parmarth Niketan gave me the keys to the room.

Imagine yourself sitting in peace on the banks of the Ganges (or holy Ganga for the purists) with a thin veil of mist shrouding the evening; listening to the soothing sounds of gurgling waters & add to that the mellifluous chants of the soulful Ganga Aarti with the Himalayas in the far distance. Spirituality had not yet had its tryst with me due to the mundane affairs of daily life. As they say ’When the student is ready, the teacher appears.’ My moment had arrived then.

Closing your eyes and getting swayed in the chants of the aarti with the heartrending voice of the guru is possibly the most divine experience anyone can have. It is an indescribable happy high & enlightened feeling, like an unending crescendo of uplifting trance! I wished the Ganga Aarti would never end; for it was like being brought back to earth from heaven itself! The meditation class proved to be a tough nut to crack with most of us having never tried it earlier.

On the first day, everybody had smiles on their faces & tears streaming down their eyes by the end of a 30 minute session. It was quite surprising to know that this was a sort of inner cleansing. Come second week, natural detox had resulted in zen-like inner peace. I was joined by a handful of other folks in Parmarth Niketan; mostly foreigners from different countries. It was an eye-opener to have unhindered conversations about life as travellers bared their hearts to strangers.

I had been humming Scorpions’ ‘Send me an angel’ on the repeat mode since Christmas. The universe responded and how! There I met Nicole from Copenhagen and had an instant soul connection. When we parted ways, she drew me a tattoo & said ‘remember each other till it lasts.’ Fellow travellers from across the world had become everlasting friends.

Rishikesh literally means ‘Lord of Senses’ (Sanskrit translation) & is rightfully called the ‘yoga capital of the world’. Ganga River is the holiest river for Hindus and it flows right through Rishikesh.

Why is Rishikesh so popular among hippies & travellers?

Rishikesh shot to prominence in the late 1960s when The Beatles visited the Maharishi Mahesh Yogi’s ashram for meditation & wrote most parts of ‘The White Album’ at the Ashram. Subsequently, hordes of westerners followed their footsteps and came searching for peace & enlightenment to gave birth to the offbeat hippie holiday trail.

Expert Tip from 2014 : To get inside The Beatles Ashram, jump in from the side walls, as the gates are usually closed due to it lying within the Rajaji National Park. The lucky ones stumble upon impromptu jam sessions held in the hall known as ‘The Cathedral’. Explore an array of graffiti on the walls made by travellers from around the world. Thank me later!

At the ashram; Sasha from Kazan in Russia was trying to get a sim card but was having a lot of trouble doing so due to the language barrier. I helped him in getting it but would strongly recommend reading this ‘How to get a Sim card in India‘ post by Rachel.

Read : Beatleas Ashram in Rishikesh – What to expect?

2 weeks at Parmarth Niketan in the non-touristy part of Rishikesh had transformed me from being sick; to fit as a fiddle. It was time to head northward to the high Himalaya and ‘reclaim my life’. The next leg of my journey would take me to McLeodganj and then to see more snow in Manali.

As Rumi says : ‘And you. When will you begin that long journey into yourself?’

I knew I had begun mine.

Have you ever had a life changing travel experience?

Practical Information : 

Buses from Delhi to Haridwar/Rishikesh are very frequent and run from the ISBT Kashmere Gate in Delhi. Parmarth Niketan Ashram is located on the other side of the Ganga river in Rishikesh. It is best to reserve accommodation in advance at Parmarth Niketan Ashram as it has become known as the best Yoga and Meditation Ashram in Rishikesh and sought after over the years. You can connect with them on email or by calling the phone number mentioned on the website.

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