Read from the epic 2015 trip to Kumaon :

Attending a Kumaoni Wedding in Kumaon

Alternative Living in Kasar Devi

I had no plan of where to go next and a stroke of luck meant I was sitting in a camper before it got dark. The camper guy mentioned he was going to Sitlakhet and I remarked I’d love to go there! It was already semi-dark when the camper had given me a ride and we crossed Sitlakhet in pitch darkness. That day the camper guy recommended that I should just get back to Almora and stay there for the night and then figure my plans with a fresh mind. This was in 2015.

In 2018, I’d read about Nayalap and thought about a visit to Sitlakhet. The visit would only materialise in 2021 when we are living in Kasar Devi. It is the month of January when we embark on a four day visit to Sitlakhet. From Kasar Devi, the road first descends to Kosi where we cross the Kosi river and bridge and take a left towards Sitlakhet.

We have left at about 930 am and the views of the Himalayan peaks are a bit hazy from Kasar Devi. As we near Kosi, the haze increases with the appearance of the Kosi river. We ascend crossing the sizeable village of Khoont and at one of the turns the full splendour of the Himalayan peaks is visible. Nayalap is located 3 kms before Sitlakhet in a hamlet by the name of Salla Rautela.

I am overjoyed with the view of the Himalayan peaks but the haze is back and my joy is short lived. We reach Nayalap earlier than expected. Nayalap offers luxury camping (glamping) and we meet the owners Tanuja and Anindya. It is nice and sunny in the open sit-out and the first look of the property is captivating. We are ushered into the luxurious setting and keep our backpacks inside.

We chat for an hour or so while enjoying the nice sunshine and decide to hike to Sitlakhet bazaar by a jungle path. The distance by road is only 3 kms but it makes sense to walk when you are in a nice forest breathing clean air. We first walk past the village of Salla Rautela and then start our hike on a lovely jungle path that has a winding ascent all the way till Sitlakhet.

Sitlakhet – An Introduction

Sitlakhet is a tiny hamlet in Kumaon, Uttarakhand. It has a few shops in the one street market and is located away from the main Almora – Ranikhet circuit. It is an offbeat destination and has been popular with the travellers of yore due to the vintage Forest Rest House in Sitlakhet that was built in 1873 by the British. Sitlakhet is rich in flora and fauna and the hills and jungles around the village are said to house more than 100 species of birds.

The hiking trail to Sitlakhet is well marked and passes through a mixed forest of pine, oak, deodhar, rhododendron trees, and also crosses an educational institution on the way. We also meet a few locals on the hike and exchange greetings. The sun filters through the trees and makes it a pleasant experience with the breeze staying away. We reach Sitlakhet bazaar in about 30 minutes and continued towards the FRH after a short peek at the market shops.

Forest Rest House Sitlakhet

The Forest Rest House (FRH) in Sitlakhet was probably built in mid 1860s and is located on a hillock that is at a distance of around 500 metres from the main Sitlakhet Bazaar. There’s also the KMVN TRH (Tourist Rest House) which appears just before the iron gate of the FRH. In front of the Forest Rest House, there is a small green meadow which would be a perfect picnic spot on a clear day when the Himalayas are visible. Some of the prominent peaks that can be seen from Sitlakhet are Nanda Devi, Trishul, Chaukhamba, and Panchachuli.

The Forest Rest House in Sitlakhet is a beautiful old building and has an enviable setting. We are unable to see it from the inside, as it is undergoing repairs with the wooden floors in the rooms being replaced. I could only have a peek from the window and saw that the interiors were charming and there are fireplaces in the rooms and the dining area as well.

Sitlakhet Bazaar comprises of a few shops selling necessities, a cute-looking post office, a pharmacy, a blue coloured tea stall, a local dhaba making samosas, and 2-3 hotels providing basic accomodation facilities. We continue on our jungle walk after visiting the FRH and a dog accompanies us from FRH Sitlakhet. It is around 4 pm and we are surprised to see a rhododendron flower blooming; even though it is only January.

It is a surreal sight to see an acacia tree in bloom, in an alluring shade of yellow. We are walking in a dense forest and the evening light makes the surroundings look even more beautiful. After a while, we reach a flat grassland and see some holes dug for water percolation by the Forest Department. It is a leisurely downhill hike thereafter to reach Naila village and come back to Nayalap. There is a small bakery in Naila village and it is fun to see biscuits and other products being made.

Salla Rautela – A Typical Kumaoni Village

On one of the afternoons at Nayalap, I am accompanied by Tanuja and Anindya to take a walk around the Kumaoni village of Salla Rautela. It is an old village and the houses are spread across the valley. Salla Rautela is a typical Kumaoni village with pretty houses, mostly barren fields, dwellings with heritage value with carved doors and windows in likhai craft, exquisite door and window frames, and a few vintage houses made from stone can also be seen.

Some of the designs on the door and window panels are quite exquisite, while one can spot a few dilapidated, crumbling homes too. Some of these homes are locked, presumably to return later while some seem to be locked forever. I experience a feeling of unparalleled joy upon seeing a field of daffodil flowers (nargis flowers) blooming in one part of the village. Their scent is light but memorable and I wonder if it is available in bottled form.

Palayan – Migration in Uttarakhand

When I turn around, my eyes are facing a bakholi (a common village home) of 9 houses, which is a huge structure in a crumbling condition. 2-3 homes out of the 9 are in dire straits and the walls on the lower floor are already collapsing. Some of the home owners have shifted closer to the road and have built a home there.

The fields that the villagers own are mostly left uncultivated. The reasons are manifold – water issues, monkeys and pigs destroying their crops, young generation doesn’t want to farm anymore, everyone wants a job. Since jobs in the hilly regions of Uttarakhand are few and far between, the youth ultimately ends up migrating to the cities in search of work and slowly the families move out of the village preferring to live an ‘easier’ life.

There were also a few glimmers of hope, I saw one traditional Kumaoni home being rented by a Nepali family with kids playing in the courtyard and another one with pretty doors rented by a couple from Bageshwar. Most of these doors and windows are painted in different colours, predominantly in shades of blue although I also spotted some green ones too.

On the informative walk, I was pleased to be shown tiny holes in the walls of houses that were meant for bees. The entry and exit would be controlled by the house owner ensuring a small quantity of real honey. Next day when I went again, I met 2 brothers sowing potatoes in the fields; they were planning to tie a dog near the field so that the monkeys wouldn’t dare to come near the crop.

We sat near the nargis flowers (daffodils) and said our namastes to the local women carrying fodder for animals. The aipan designs outside homes were especially beautiful but it was a little sad to see a number of the homes locked. Apparently, the locals had moved out and migrated to the cities. Salla Rautela village has about 90 homes and around 40 of them had already migrated leaving some of those locked homes and some of the others crumbling.

Nayalap

Tanuja is a local from the Kumaon region and was concerned with the mass exodus of the Kumaoni youth towards the cities. That was the idea that gave birth to Nayalap; the word migration in english is palayan in hindi. Palayan read backwards is Nayalap – and that is what Tanuja and Anindya aim to do with Nayalap is to start the reverse migration and bring back Kumaoni youth back from the cities. Nayalap also endeavours to convert old Kumaoni houses into homestays and give a sustainable earning model to the locals by way of tourism.

Nayalap is a boutique luxury stay consisting of 4 glamping tents, that are spread out from each other for privacy of the guests. If I have to summarise Nayalap in a nutshell – there are multiple pristine hiking trails in the jungle, luxury camping (glamping) in the midst of nature, gorgeous furniture with pleasing interiors, warm electric blankets, excellent food with Kumaoni dishes, use of the local sheep wool blanket Thulma, evening lights of Almora and the moonrise when the moon appears red. They employ local Kumaoni staff from the nearby villages.

The weather is hazy which is unusual for the winter and that means we have a clear view of the mountains for just one day. According to the locals when the views are clear, the sight of Himalayan peaks from Sitlakhet is surreal. The luxury tents at Nayalap are set on platforms and have a jungle feel as there is ample space for each of them surrounded by trees and they are not cloistered together which is usually the case with luxury tent properties. What that means is that we wake up to the sounds of birds. Evening bonfires with home made ginger wine are welcome with a dazzling view of the stars in the night skies.

Furniture – Every tent is equipped with a dining/work table with ample space for 4, and a comfortable contemporary settee lined with gorgeous cushions. Side tables, a rack for keeping bags, a clothes hanger, and a vintage looking cabinet. Flooring is bamboo mats woven by local artisans. Choice of teas is excellent, bottles of green tea, masala tea and coffee are kept and a strainer is given. The tea mugs look custom made and feel very pretty. Curtains are in the form of bamboo blinds.

Even though it is thick in the middle of winter, the temperature is comfortable inside the tent even after it gets dark. The heater does its job and we have dinner on the table in the tent itself. A happy surprise is the electric blankets and we turn them on 30 minutes before getting in the bed. That means the bed is nicely warm and coupled with the thulma blanket, it is a cosy night’s sleep.

The dining area has 3-4 tables and is set amidst trees, surrounded by succulents, other flowers and greenery and has a rustic yet welcoming feel. There is one table kept in the open space that receives the maximum sunlight and is the preferred place for breakfast and lunch. The small verandah outside each tent comes with a portable small table and mobile chairs (quechua). The tents itself have white curtains on all sides on the exterior. Inside the tents, the white curtains can be drawn to separate the living area from the bedroom part to make it a more intimate space. We had carried fairy lights to make it look more warm and cosy and homely!

The mobile network and internet connectivity at Nayalap is excellent and they also have wifi. There’s also a dog at the property by the name of Ludo. It is refreshing to see school kids every morning as they cross through the open area to go for their tuition. One can see easter egg decorations and pine cones painted in the open space. Nayalap’s natural feel brings out the artist in visitors and proof of that is in a watercolour painting gifted by a guest. It can be seen outside the kitchen wall.

At Nayalap, their food offerings are varied and are a nice mix of Indian, continental and Kumaoni food – Thatwani soup (black in colour) made of 3 beans, bhatt ki churkani, bhatt ka dubka, bhangjeera ki chutney, sana hua nimbu, bhaang ki chutney, jhangore ki kheer, salad of thatwani, aloo ke gutke, gahat ki dall, mooli salad in mustard oil, gaderi ki sabzi, mandua ki roti, fresh paneer made in the village, pumpkin soup. In short, every meal felt like a feast and they customize the food according to the guest’s preferences.

The staff from nearby villages has been trained well and food is served hot in fine serving vessels with accompaniments like ghee, raita, salad and local Kumaoni salt. I quite liked the innovation with the mandua halwa and gaderi toast. During breakfast time, there was a choice of fruits everyday, and fresh made juice or milk shake and a word of appreciation for consistently excellent masala chai.

A Day Trip to Ranikhet – Walks in Ranikhet

The distances in Kumaon are small, and that meant we decide to explore Ranikhet on a Saturday! We leave from Nayalap at about 11 am and totally enjoy the drive amidst the thick forests and minimal traffic. On the way, Tanuja pointed out a jackal right in front of us – then we realised it was a pair of jackals, and multiple steppe eagles on the road. There might have been a dead animal in the vicinity as we see more steppe eagles on the next turn.

We cross Majkhali and drive past the Army Golf Course and reach Ranikhet Cantt. after an hour or so. It is somewhere close to the Nar Singh Stadium where we start our walk. We climb a short set of stairs and arrive at a point to see the first dwellings or barracks where the English soldiers first started living. It is an Army Cantt. area and there’s a temple in front of the KRC (Kumaon Regiment Centre) woollens workshop in an old Church.

KRC Woollens

I had heard about the wonderful initiative of Kumaon Regiment Centre Woollens but had never expected to see a Church being converted to a workshop. It felt quite an amazing idea to maintain the church and preserve the heritage! There were about 20 looms installed in the interiors and a signboard which detailed about the variety of shawls and woollen products made at KRC Woollens. I met a guy from Pithoragarh here and he told me about the variety of products made here.

The shop section of KRC woollens was located in another Church which was hardly a five minute walk from the first Church. There was another smaller workshop in the second Church and we had to rush to the shop since it was about to be 1 pm when the staff would shut shop for their lunch break. We entered at 1250 pm and were happily surprised with the excellent quality of stoles, mufflers, jackets, tweed cloth, shawls and other woollen products. There were also handicrafts in traditional Kumaoni designs made by war widows.

The best part was that prices were fixed and the staff was ok with us seeing the products even when it was 5 minutes past 1. I kept the solitary shawl aside (to see later) when the staff actually wanted to go for lunch. There was also knitted stuff, and AWWA Asha cards, some SOS cosmetics and also Purkul Stree Shakti products.

Heritage Walk in Ranikhet

We begin our walk in the Cantt. area in Ranikhet and lose the main road. It is pleasing to walk in the dense greenery and we cross Rani Jheel from where the gently ascending trail begins. We cross a few crumbling and dilapidated Churches on the way; Canossa Convent School, and the walking trail ends at Ranikhet Club. We are happy to amble under a verdant canopy of deodhar, walnut, chestnut, oak, pine and cypress trees.

Ranikhet Club is a regal building established in 1884 and is located on The Mall Road. The dining room, bar, interiors with fireplaces, rooms overlooking expansive patches of greenery and a lawn tennis court are wonderful spaces. I really like this part of Ranikhet and it surely must be the quietest Mall Road I have ever visited!

Ranikhet was a summer establishment for the British since the late 1860’s before it became home to Kumaon Regiment after independence. Since Ranikhet is a cantonment town, construction is not permitted and that ensures Ranikhet doesn’t look like a concrete jungle like most other popular hill stations turn into. In the present day, it is a mountain town dominated by the Army Cantonment area that gives Ranikhet its unique character.

We continue walking on The Mall and are transported back in time with Army Guest Houses, old lampposts, rhododendron trees in bloom (in January!), heritage hotels, old estates and bungalows, and the air smelling of eucalyptus trees. It is quite refreshing to see a fresh growth of greenery in the dense jungle, a testament to how strict Ranikhet is with regards to the tree cover.

We go to Chevron Rosemount – which is a nice heritage property. The garden is a great place to sit with cast iron chairs, and the immaculately maintained lawn makes for a great lunch idea in the winter sunshine. Since we are carrying an elaborate picnic lunch setup with us, we continue our explorations of Ranikhet.

Even though The Mall Road walk is on a road, there is no car that passes us by in the 4-5 kilometres walk. The road joins the main road at West View Hotel and we see a signboard that Nehru also walked here. We set out for a picnic lunch near Chaubatia and find a secluded sunny spot under the pine trees. It is around 330 pm and the breeze blowing is already quite cold. On our way back we cross the Jhula Devi Temple lined with bells.

There are a number of hiking trails in Ranikhet and we spot the jungle paths in the Cantt. area and also near the West View Hotel and Jhula Devi Temple. Ranikhet seems like a lovely town for a longer stay!

We spread the dhurrie and unpack the bamboo basket. It feels like a treasure hunt as I am not aware of the menu. My joy knows no bounds when I am served delicious methi puri, black chana, jhangora (barnyard millet) khichdi, spicy pumpkin with jakhiya, and the signature Nayalap chilly pickle. It is akin to a feast and after trying to click the perfect instagram shot, we dig in! The food is yummy and the picnic setup is perfect.

If you are in the region, I highly recommend exploring Ranikhet with the Nayalap folks! It is a perfect way that Ranikhet should be seen, on foot.

We begin our return journey from Ranikhet and cross the majestic evening sights in Majkhali. A surreal sunset seems to be brewing and we catch glimpses of the valley view on our return. We stop at a bamboo artist near Sitlakhet – he is a gifted guy and makes excellent stuff from bamboo. Nayalap works with him and you can buy products handcrafted in bamboo like a magazine stand, coasters, fruit box, lamps etc from their website.

Hike to Syahi Devi Temple

The Nayalap folks had saved the best for the last! On our last evening – we start our drive at around 330 pm and reach the parking place ahead of Forest Rest House by around 415 pm. There are three different trails to go to Syahi Devi temple, and all of them are well marked. We decide to take a round hike by walking on one trail and coming via a different one. It is quite interesting to know that the locals have named some of the houses – Bhutan, Singapore, Nainital courtesy of the connection that these house owners have with these places!

The trail to Syahi Devi temple passes through dense pine and oak forests. The temple is located at an altitude of approximately 2300m. There is a nice opportunity for birding enthusiasts here and the trail is accessible throughout the day. On the way to Syahi Devi temple we also came across many fruit orchards for which Sitlakhet was well known at one point of time. On a clear day it is possible to have a majestic view of the Himalayas and see all the way till the mountains of Nepal.

Tanuja shows us lichens growing on trees in an upper part of the trail, lichens usually grow in cold areas with zero air pollution. For the uninitiated, lichens are also used in Hyderabadi biryani. After crossing one fence, we enter someone’s private estate and spot rosemary and local tea leaves growing. Some locals inform us that they practice mushroom farming, and one house even has an essence making unit.

We continue to the temple and cross a few houses located on the sides of the hill that comprise Syahi Devi village. There are young kids playing basketball in surreal evening light. The forest department has put nice signboards on the nature trail, and a signboard at the temple informs us that Swami Vivekananda meditated for 4 days at Syahi Devi Temple. We pay our respects at the temple and sit for a while.

The Syahi Devi temple is locally revered and surprisingly looks newly built. The house adjacent to the temple seems quite old and the door frame there has been carved in stone itself. There are a few shops selling religious paraphernalia and also a few houses of the residents. The locals believe that Syahi Devi temple was built more than 200 years ago.

It is time to be enthralled by the magic of nature – We witness a surreal sunset from a high ridge that is a 10 minute walk from Syahi Devi temple. The sun is setting behind the hills, and we have hot tea in thermos as we savour the sight of the sun going behind the mountains. The after-sunset colours are also very nice but since it would get dark soon, we start our hike back through a different trail. It is all downhill and we make it to the car in good time.

We cross Bora Estate, and Pine Cliff Youreka Camp, a property – Anant Rasa and some more recently built cottages. The way downhill is pretty easy and passes through a stunning dense forest and we reached the car in semi-darkness.

How to reach Sitlakhet?

Distance of Sitlakhet from Ranikhet is 30 kms. Distance from Sitlakhet to Almora is 36 kms. Shared sumos and buses ply for Sitlakhet from both these towns. If direct buses/shared taxis are not available, then Kosi is the junction from where shared taxis to Sitlakhet will be available. From Delhi, reaching Sitlakhet will take approximately 10 hours.

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It was a lazy afternoon at H20 Chamba and other people of the group were wondering if they should go to Jot. I suggested Dainkund would be a better choice. Like most other times, this was just a random plan and a taxi was summoned. The only intent for the day was to click some good pictures, have a nice time and come back to Chamba, where we had settled ourselves to enjoy a relaxed weekend, but nature had its own plans for us.

The air was understandably cold when the sumo was in shade and we clung close to our solitary jackets. It was a clear day and the views over Chamera Dam were breathtaking. As we approached Banikhet, the snow-clad peaks were in their full splendour with the backdrop of the cloudless blue sky.

By the time we reached the intersection point for Kalatop (Lakkar Mandi) making our way through the touristy rush of Dalhousie jam packed with Delhi and HR vehicles, it was already 3 pm. There were many vehicles driven by outsiders that had got stuck causing a traffic jam and it was left to our sumo driver to clear it. I remember saying that the authorities should do something about this in tourist areas during snowy times.

The roads to Dainkund peak and Kalatop were snowed out and closed for traffic while day-trippers were enjoying their time in the white snow near Dalhousie. The sun is rapidly going behind the mountains and we walk past the entry gate to Kalatop Khajjiar Wildlife Sanctuary.

We are 7 of us and I cheekily suggest if everyone is ok with the idea of staying at Kalatop FRH (Forest Rest House), we can spend a memorable night there. Distance of Kalatop Wildlife Sanctuary is 3kms from the entrance gate at Lakkar Mandi. It seemed difficult to walk 3 kms and then go back due to the snow clad paths, it would take too much time. A few locals walk past and assure us that we can stay at homestays near the Kalatop FRH. After a bit of cajoling, we decide that it is indeed a super idea to stay inside the Kalatop Wildlife Sanctuary for the night.

Everyone was hungry too and we quickly cross the gate again and have aloo paranthas and chai at one of the dhabas at Lakkar Mandi. We dig into the piping hot paranthas and try finding out the phone number of the caretaker at the Kalatop FRH. The movie buffs among us, having witnessed the beauty of the FRH in the bollywood movie Lootera, reminisce dreamily.

Lootera was shot at this colonial architectural marvel, and we had a blooming desire in our hearts to relive those virtual moments by spending some time at this splendid house located in the middle of nowhere. And now that we were so close to Kalatop, a chance had to be taken!

Everyone wanted to pee; and it was difficult in the frozen public loo near the entrance. The official entry office was closed, someone told us we should be glad at not having to pay the ticket of Rs. 250 per person. Finally, we started our walk on the snow covered path leading to Kalatop. The 3 km walk amidst the dense deodar and fir forest was an experience to remember. The pristine snow clad Himalayan peaks, the stark whiteness of the undisturbed snow leisurely spread across the walking trail, and the multiple hues of the setting sun painted a surreal picture.

While words fail me in describing the beauty of that very moment, it will stay etched in my memory for a long time. We were dazed by the pristine beauty all around us and almost forgot that we are yet to arrange for our stay at the FRH.

By the time we reached the gate of this winter wonderland, it was already approaching 7 pm and was almost dark. Not a single soul was around and we had the entire FRH to us- the only problem was we were yet to find the caretaker. The breathtaking beauty was accompanied by bone chilling cold and none of us were prepared to be in out in the cold in sub-zero temperatures (we weren’t even carrying our day packs and were completely at the mercy of the weather gods).

God bless the pahadis for they always come to my rescue – one of the fellow travellers was from Shimla and used various permutations and combinations of his local connections to get our booking confirmed at the FRH. 2 rooms were opened and we cozied ourselves in the warm wooden cottages. After much roaming around, we managed to locate the caretaker in a nearby dhaba on the far end outside the Kalatop Forest Rest House boundary.

Dinner was had in a nearby dhaba and the simple rice, daal and sabzi made up for the hard work and coming to Kalatop in the winter cold felt worthwhile. We ate like hungry beasts because the rajmah was supremely delicious! Conversations flowed and stories were shared, while soaking in the feeling of being in a world far away. Snow covered our pathways and surroundings in the FRH and for a bit we also played with the icicles hanging on the roof. I had a gala time learning night photography from the pros, Nitish & Harish.

Before we would die with the cold, a pleasant discovery saved our night. The rooms had heaters hidden in the uppermost cupboards ensuring that we had a sound sleep. Leaving the chilly night behind us, we woke up to the welcoming warmth of the morning sun. The chai and aloo paranthas we had on the rooftop dhaba overlooking the snow clad Himalayas was an experience worth cherishing. Declaration of election results for Himachal was on the same day and the locals were animated in their excitement.

While I do promote solo travel as a means to discover oneself; travelling with like-minded, equally crazy travellers helps one discover the world of meaningful conversations; beyond the world of Facebook and Whatsapp. And this was one such trip where the cold and the lack of anything else to do meant it was the crazy stories that made everyone laugh their heart out.

Go to Kalatop Wildlife Sanctuary in the winters if you wish to get lost in the quietude of nature. There are options to stay other than the Kalatop Forest Rest House.

About Kalatop Khajjiar Wildlife Sanctuary and Kalatop FRH : Kalatop is located approximately 12 kms from Dalhousie and is a part of the Kalatop Wildlife Sanctuary. It comprises an area of 17 Sq. Kms. This semi-high altitude sanctuary is located at an altitude of 2500 meters above the sea level.

The FRH was built around 1925 during the time of the British Raj and is now a famous tourist attraction. While one can drive to the FRH during the summer months, the only way to reach the FRH in winters is walking on the snow clad path for around 3 kms. Vehicle entry is closed to the Kalatop Wildlife Sanctuary after snowfall in winter. There is a variety of wildlife to be seen in the Wildlife Sanctuary.

Check : Encounters at the end of the world in Himachal Pradesh

Kalatop FRH has basic amenities and is apt for someone looking to purify their mind & soul by the beauty of the nature, songs of the cool wind passing through the age old trees and majestic views of the glistering white Himalaya. I highly recommend it as a weekend destination from Delhi and Chandigarh with excellent volvo connectivity. There are direct HRTC Himsuta Volvo from Chamba to Delhi, Delhi to Dalhousie and return.

Since we were short of time (the sumo driver was keen on going back to Chamba soon) we could not explore the temple located nearby. There is a trekking route to Khajjiar from Kalatop which passes through the sanctuary (12 kms). There are other beautiful walking trails in and around the rest house which can be explored at leisure. We started walking back after a quick breakfast and made it to Lakkar Mandi in less than an hour.

Other posts : A Roadtrip Without a Plan: Destination No. 1 Khajjiar

Top Experiences and Places to Visit in Barot Valley

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The jungles around Sariska seemed inviting and because it was a tuesday, there was no need to book a Tiger Safari. Private vehicles are allowed inside Sariska National Park for Rs. 250 on Tuesdays and Saturdays. It is a great opportunity to be in the Tiger Reserve and see it from the comfort of your vehicle. I am all for a jeep ride too, but the dust can be unnerving and there is no dearth of it in Sariska Wildlife Sanctuary.

Check : Tiger spotting in Ranthambore

History of Sariska 

Set in the majestic Aravalli mountains, Sariska is believed to be the place from the Hindu epic Mahabharata where the Pandavas found sanctuary during their last year of exile. There is also a shrine dedicated to Hanuman at Pandupol (inside the core zone of the park), which literally translates to ‘gateway of the Pandavas’ in Sanskrit, which is thronged by pilgrims from nearby places on tuesdays and saturdays.

Among other important places located within the core of the reserve is Kankwari Fort. It was built by Maharaja Jai Singh II in the 17th century and has recently reopened to visitors. I was lucky to have even reached Kankwari Fort, it is sure in a remote location and permits are difficult to procure. Kankwari Fort is the place where Mughal emperor Aurangzeb had imprisoned his elder brother Dara Shikoh.

Sariska Tiger Reserve 

Initially, Sariska was the private hunting ground of the Rajas of Alwar. In 1955, hunting was banned in Sariska. After that, Sariska was notified as India’s 11th National Park in 1978-79. In 2005, it notoriously became the first tiger reserve in the country to lose its entire tiger population as a consequence of killing and poaching. In the present day after translocation of big cats from Ranthambhore, a lot of conservation initiatives and village relocations, Sariska is fast becoming a popular Wildlife Safari destination and has 14 tigers according to the last count in 2017.

The beautiful jungles of Sariska are home to not just wildlife; but also ruins, temples and unforgettable tales of history and mythology. It is highly recommended to roam these jungles with a local guide, to know more about the birds, fauna and flora.

Read : A Stroll in Bhangarh’s Gorgeous Ruins

Enjoying the Jeep Safari in Sariska National Park

The best way to enjoy the dense jungles of Sariska is to have no expectations of spotting a tiger. There are increasing indications that most people visit National Parks to see a tiger. While on the wildlife safari; I remember thinking that Sariska has a much larger concentration of other wild animals than Corbett National Park & Ranthambore National Park.

I went on both the morning safari and afternoon safari. The early morning rays filter through the leaves and bathe the forest in a golden hue. Peacocks strut around nonchalantly, and spotted deer and nilgai co-exist beautifully. The occasional call of a leopard puts the jungle on high alert. Everyone watches with bated breath. The 850 odd square kilometers of dry deciduous forest has a rugged charm in the glorious forests of Aravalli ranges in stunning topography. The landscape is simply amazing with arid forests set among jagged rock mountains.

Avid birdwatchers will surely have a great time in Sariska on a jeep safari. There’s plenty of bird life to spot – peafowl, grey partridge, tree pie, bush quail, sand grouse, crested serpent eagles and the great Indian horned owl.

Sariska is denoted as a tiger reserve but the forests are also home to numerous wild animals like the leopard, jungle cat, civets, hyenas, jackals etc. The smaller animals like herds of sambar, chital, nilgai, wild boar, mongooses, langur and rhesus monkey can be easily spotted in Sariska. The best place to see animals is to spot them near one of the many waterholes.

Also read : Romancing the monsoon in Corbett

Although Sariska is known as a dry deciduous region but there are many lakes and water bodies around Sariska National Park. The monsoons bring the whole area under a lush green cover for visitors to appreciate the natural beauty. The topography of Sariska and the Tiger Reserve is comprised of small hills, narrow valleys with shrubs amidst the fabulous rocky terrain.

The majority of trees are of salai, ber, tendu and also jamun, arjun which comprise the forest. In some pockets of Sariska, there are towering date palm trees with small waterfalls flowing that make Sariska National Park feel like an unexplored paradise.

How to Reach Sariska from Delhi / Jaipur?

Sariska is at a distance of approx. 190 kms from Delhi and around 120 kms away from Jaipur. Sariska National Park is located only 35 km away from Alwar by road. Alwar is the closest railhead to Sariska, while Jaipur is the nearest airport. With regards to the proximity to both Delhi & Jaipur; I highly recommend it as a weekend destination from Delhi and Jaipur.

Basic Details For Tourists for a Visit – Sariska Tiger Reserve 

Timings of entry and exit : 6 am to 5pm

The best way to explore Sariska is by jeep or canter safari. Safaris can be taken twice a day. Timing : 6 am to 9.30 am and 3 pm to 6 pm. The per seat cost for the jeep safari and canter is around 600 and 400 respectively. The canter is more economical(and has 20 seats), but the jeep offers greater possibility of exploration on narrower trails.

There is a variety of wildlife in Sariska Tiger Reserve. The park is divided into many zones and zone 1 & 4 are said to be the best for tiger sightings. Besides the main gate, Sariska is accessible via a second gate at a place called Tehla. If you have obtained prior permission, then it is also possible to enter or exit with your own vehicle from Tehla gate.

Read : Offbeat Explorations in Leh

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It was time to shiver now, I was on an assignment to document the attractions and places to visit in Alwar & Sariska. The Alwar and Neemrana belt is quickly becoming a popular choice for a weekend getaway from Delhi. Jaipurites are also quite fond of the Sariska Wildlife Sanctuary, as it makes for an excellent day trip. I had visited Ranthambore earlier and had mixed experiences of seeing a tiger with the crowds.

The intriguing story of Dara Shikoh (the legitimate Mughal prince who had been imprisoned in this remote hilltop fort) made me quite keen on visiting the Kankwari Fort (also Kankwadi Fort). It is inside the confines of Sariska Wildlife Sanctuary, 21 kms from the entrance gate and was originally constructed by Maharaja Jai Singh I.

Since morning, a sort of confusion prevailed with regards to the permit for visiting the Kankwari Fort. With such a mysterious history, it was inexplicable to find out that there were very few visitors that actually went up to the fort. The steep fee for the gypsy was the biggest reason for the same, it was essential to take a safari ride in the reserve forest to somehow reach the Kankwari Fort.

On top of that, there is very little information on the route and whether it is worth visiting this secluded structure that towers on a hilltop. I was lucky to have a respected local guide accompanying me who ensured that we didn’t have to follow the ridiculous 3 hour rule of the morning or evening safari. Visitors are expected to enter the gate of the Sariska Tiger Sanctuary, reach and then see Kankwari Fort and exit the forest gate in less than 3 hours! Rather than a holiday, it would then seem like a rushed activity because a one way drive takes more than an hour.

Read : Bundi – Charmed by the Magic of this Fairytale Town in Rajasthan.

I was really quite pleased with the incidence of wildlife inside the Sariska Tiger Sanctuary and marvelled at the dense deciduous forest. Although I didn’t spot a tiger (yeah, no!) I gawked and gasped while seeing a number of sambar, nilgai, barasingha, chausingha, spotted deer, wild boar and other animals I don’t know the names of.

Sariska feels nice, I already want to recommend it as a must visit for travellers who have a penchant for adventure.

The Tale of Dara Shikoh

This region is dotted with 8-9 hilltop forts that are quite strategically located. The usurper Aurangzeb held Prince Dara Shikoh captive for a brief period of time in Kankwari Fort. Dara Shikoh was finally executed by his brother Aurangzeb in 1659 in Delhi.

Dara Shikoh was a patron and lover of fine arts and music and is said to have been a supporter of all religions.

Check : A Day in Ajmer – What to see?

In 1642, Shah Jahan had formally confirmed Dara Shikoh as his heir and conferred the title of ‘Shahzada e Buland Iqbal’ on him, a decision which Aurangzeb didn’t like. In 1657, when Emperor Shah Jahan fell sick, Aurangzeb took matters in his own hands and fought a battle with Dara Shikoh and emerged victorious. In 1659, ‘the prince’ was imprisoned by Aurangzeb and humiliated by parading him in Delhi.

It was at Kankwari Fort that Dara Shikoh, heir to the Mughal throne, was held captive by his brother Aurangzeb sometime in 1658 and 1659. It is believed that if Dara had been the emperor instead of Aurangzeb, India’s heritage and architecture might have stood intact and its subsequent history would have been quite different.

Read : Kangra Fort and other delights

A Unique Rajasthani Fort

The Kankwari Fort isn’t visible until you actually reach its base, the drive almost feels futile at one point of time. It looms large as a humongous structure, and after an hour of a bumpy ride, I cant wait to get inside the fort and see it for myself.

The road is a non-stop winding affair and after every turn I feel that the next turn will be my first sight of the mysterious fort. After every few minutes, there is a cluster of homes that is at the base of rising hills. Colourful Rajasthani costumes worn by women break the monotony of the dull and drab landscape that has intermittent green when forests of local date palm cross us by.

Also check : 20 Stunning Images from Shekhawati – In Monochrome

Then suddenly it appears; pinkish coloured trees grow on the hill and the ramparts of the Kankwari Fort are visible. Distinct white minarets can be seen that make it feel more like a Mughal building than a Rajasthani Fort. A flock of water birds lazes idly in the absence of traffic or any human intervention.

The remoteness of this fort must have been a good reason for Aurangzeb to banish Dara Shikoh here. Even with a dirt road, we had almost lost our way numerous times – there was little chance of finding ‘Prince Dara’ more than 350 years ago.

I wonder how helpless Dara must have felt in this godforsaken place, or was he given literature to read and gaze at the glorious views from this fort?

A huge entrance is visible on the other side of the fort, from where we are supposed to enter. The Maruti gypsy labours on the terrible and uphill path. There is a shallow and marshy space filled with water at the base of the hill, I see a huge Nilgai saunter across the date palms. A winding path from here leads up to the main gate, there is much excitement amongst us – the guide, driver and me.

Read : A photo story from Pushkar : Away from the fair

There is nobody at the gates and no sign that anyone has even come here in the past month, Kankwari Fort looks deserted. I jump out of the gypsy as soon as our vehicle comes to a stop. Immediately the guide runs after me and asks me to be careful, he says the fort is believed to be a favourite lazing ground for tigers and leopards. There is a long corridor that leads to the main door of the fort. On the right side is another entrance, now it is the driver’s turn to warn us.

It feels like an anticlimax, we have literally fought with the authorities and stealthily made our way up here and now my guide and driver are skeptical about the presence of a wild animal up here. I walk up to the main door, which appears closed from faraway. I wait for the guide to catch up before pushing the small door, lo behold – it turned out to be open.

Read : A long weekend in Mussoorie – Explorations & Walks

I put my feet inside, the guide tells me he doesn’t have a good vibe about entering inside. Still, I go in and see a yellow white building with stairs on the right leading up to the main fort. There is an eerie feel at this abandoned kind of structure that is not maintained either by the ASI or the tourism department. As it is in the forest, it comes under the Forest department. The locals inform me that there was a talk of an auction to convert this fort into a heritage hotel, but was shelved.

The seed of doubts in the minds of the driver and guide have made it in my mind too; they say if we were 5-6 people, then there was no fear. I begin to think and weigh my options, if it was worth to take the risk of finding a leopard ready for take off upon climbing the stairs. I took a step ahead, and took two behind to exit the door and saw the guide breathe in relief.

Although I want to see nook and corner of the fort, on my travels I have seen that if something doesn’t seem alright, it is better to let it go. I promise myself I will come some other time and explore all the rooftop forts near Sariska – Alwar. There is another legend associated with Kankwari Fort that it was the place where the Mughals stored a part of their treasure, because of the remoteness of this fort.

Read : The Tomb of Safdarjung in Delhi

Dara Shikoh

I wander the streets of Delhi
seeking my name
Dara—the scholar, the Sufi
Shahjahan’s licit heritor
I was trapped and assassinated
by my own treacherous brother

I see, masters of Delhi
have named streets
after murderous Aurangzeb
but Dara Shikoh
the people’s prince
no one remembers, no one cares.

Note : This poem is not written by me.

All the fears of the driver and the guide were about to come true. We had a collective gasp of horror upon sighting a fresh leopard footprint very close to the gypsy. We ran for our lives!

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Last rays of the sun illuminate the snowy Himalaya, notice the moon rising through the narrow gap.
Clicked in Khajjiar.#TravelTuesday pic.twitter.com/B4vAGDxv9R

— Shubham Mansingka (@travelshoebum) October 4, 2016

Saying goodbye to 2015 in style!

After the epic wanderings of 2015, when more than 250 days were spent on the road; this was a year in which I moved in a decisive direction about making my travels financially sustainable without compromising on my style of travel. I experimented with a few trips and realised that the ‘doing’ a place in 3 days wasn’t my kind of life and hence graciously opted to say no to offers of travel.

Here, I attempt to embed my social media shares through the year. (Secretly hoping they work!) Ha ha.

This epic experience was published in HT Brunch Magazine.

The year started by attending the Jaipur Literature Festival and thereafter heading to Bundi and around for a slow holiday in this charming little town.

Bundi Café on the street.

After having explored Ladakh in the winters, I was keen on going to Spiti for a similar chilling experience and had a lovely time backpacking in buses and local transport. After my journey ended in March, it was known that I happened to be the only tourist to have made it to Losar village in the winters.

The road to Losar – In the winter.

A bout of craziness meant I walked from Jalori Pass to Shoja in the snow and stayed in Jibhi and attended some local festivals. My family joined in my wanderlust ways too and we headed to Pushkar for the colours of holi.

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Rhododendron flowers welcome trekkers on the trail to Triund in March.

My sister had been talking about a solo trip/trek forever and after she ended up going nowhere, the onus on me meant we went to McLeodganj and Triund for her first taste of the Himalaya (On her own.) It was quite nice when the experience turned out to be amazing even as snow flakes fell heavily on our trek.

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Khardung La in winter.

The little time I was in Jaipur was beautifully spent watching sunrises at Nahargarh Fort. I was pleasantly surprised to notice that Jaipur shines blue before the sun lights up the earth. It was already summer and brief visits to the hills happened. Orchha had beckoned for long and it was finally time for me to savour a visit to this ruined Kingdom.

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Music transcends boundaries.

The fairytale of Gushaini welcomed me for most of May and I had an unforgettable time trekking in pristine Great Himalayan National Park and bathing in the Tirthan river. A crazy decision meant reaching Mussoorie after travelling for almost 24 hours and Landour provided much needed solace.

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A homestay in the secret villages of Parvati Valley.

In between, Corbett National Park was visited and it was beautiful to see the clouds signal the onset of monsoon in India. I trekked to Kheerganga in Parvati valley and was disappointed with the crowds and was glad on finding a cute homestay in the hidden villages away from the world. (Haven’t yet managed to write about these places!)

Photography skills in the Himalaya

Heavenly scenes in the remote Pangi Valley.

My favourite month of July brought the air of high Himalaya with it as I spent it on the road backpacking across Saach Pass to the remote Pangi Valley. I felt unparalleled joy after exploring the few villages of Pangi Valley & the even more beautiful Miyar Valley. It was time for another epic adventure in the form of reaching Lahaul and then reaching Ladakh (Changthang) by hitchhiking in a truck. It was pure luck to receive rides, day after day and I ended up hitchhiking my entire time in the Changthang.

The wondrous roads in the ‘land of the lamas’.

Hitchhiking with the Lt. Colonel in Ladakh.

There was an epic failure of a day too, on that journey – when my brain had gone for a holiday. I travelled and walked all day and ended up very close to roughly where I had started. Sane stuff prevailed after this and I salvaged the rest of my trip.

Beauty on the Kashmir Great Lakes Trek.

And just when you thought it was enough, it was time to go to Kashmir to try and attempt going to the Great Lakes Trek. The tickets had been booked in a sale, and the tumultuous situation of the Burhani Wani curfew wasn’t enough for me to not go. In the end it turned out to be a life changing journey, fed by the love from strangers.

Kashmir in 4 pictures.

When the Gods summon you – At Amarnath.

Nandkhol Lake on the Kashmir Great Lakes Trek.

As much as I tried going to Kerala in the monsoons, the hills kept calling me and I was only happy with all the love in Uttarakhand. Excellent weather also meant it was a good time to see the historical sights of Delhi. A celebration was in order and it came in the form of a Chapslee experience in Shimla. Back home in Rajasthan, numerous trips through the year had me seeing Shekhawati in a different light.

Sunrise on the Ganges in Varanasi.

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Wow! Happily surprised with my portrait photography.

An invite from Uttar Pradesh Tourism meant I was in Varanasi for an event and then chose to stay and explore the ancient city on my own too. The experience was extraordinary and so epic that I am still struggling for words to pen it down. My fear of breathing issues was put to rest, I wore a mask and was rewarded with Diwali celebrations in Jaipur.

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Spectacular Diwali Lights of Jaipur.

The quirks of Jodhpur, Pali, the Bishnoi Villages, arts, crafts, bedsheets and opium ceremonies happened amidst the demonetisation drama and I barely just managed to scrape through to Jaisalmer. Lack of cash meant I slept at a dhaba at the Sam Sand Dunes and barely survived even though the experiences were fulfilling.

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Sunset on the sand dunes amid demonetisation worries.

A 10 rupee note was never spent better when an shared auto ride brought me to the hamlet of Khichan, near Phalodi – chiefly famous for the Khurja (Or demoiselle cranes). While I liked watching the cranes perform their collective antics, the unsung delight of Khichan was an entire lane of timeless havelis, all abandoned.

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Welcome to heaven, in Parvati Valley!

I started working with brands in 2015, and was happy to hear their feedback this year on my engagement on social media, which, according to them is excellent and quite similar to some of the top in the industry. Maybe it was because of the wholly organic following and sharing experiences on the road as they happened and the interactions. I had never thought I could live a dream life.

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Kasol in November.

Let me tell you it isn’t easy; travel blogging requires hard work and patience as well as quality. The payoffs won’t come in a jiffy and that only means the joy is even more sweeter when things finally start working. Like all good things in life, there is no substitute for hard work.

I want to thank each one of you for reading this. As a traveller and full time professional travel blogger, I prefer to share experiences rather than hanker after followers. After all, rushing at a breakneck speed isn’t really something I am good at.

It would be awesome if you can share your favourite travel posts in the comments Always happy to read nice content.

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This story appeared in The Hindu’s Sunday Magazine edition.

I would love to know your views.

The road goes from Leh to Spituk & then to Zingchen, an hour’s drive from Leh, after that its pure wilderness.

I had been warned by the locals that wild dogs had eaten up a woman just a week ago on the same trail. A good hearted samaritan agreed to accompany me till Rumbak which was a three hour trek from Zingchen. Huffing and puffing and marvelling at the incredible landscapes we were jolted when a wild yak was spotted in our path. Manoeuvring our way out of trouble walking through frozen waterfalls we reach the timeless buddhist village of Rumbak (4050m). It was bitterly cold even during the daytime due to the dense cloud cover.

Read : Kids of Markha Valley

There are 8-9 houses in Rumbak and all of them are homestays. I was ushered into the first one, straight into the warm confines of the kitchen. All homes have a ‘Bukhari’ in Ladakh, burning wood for warmth and on top of it food and tea is made. Three cute kids peer at me sheepishly as cha-cha (butter tea) is served. They are the children of my homestay owners and are creating a ruckus running and jumping around. The schools are closed due to winter holidays. The women in Ladakh work hard, the men mostly tend to chores outside of home. Handheld prayer wheels are rotated and the sounds of ‘om mane padme hum’ reverberate around the valley.

The per day rates have been fixed at 800 Rupees including all meals and endless cups of cha-cha. I am wearing 8 layers of clothing to combat the -30 degree temperatures that evening brings. The kids take me with them to walk around the village and meet everybody, there is no other outsider to soak in this tranquility. Other kids join us too as it starts snowing, making my heart sing in the process. We rush home as the entire landscape turns white and slippery as icy cold winds blow.

The Govt. has provided Rumbak with a generator and fuel, so electricity is available from 5 pm to 9 pm. Each family takes turns everyday to ensure the timings are taken care of. I express a desire to go to Yurutse the next day, which is a two hour walk along a frozen river.

We talk about the wildlife while a special Ladakhi dish is being prepared. It’s called ‘Timokh’ which is steamed Ladakhi bread in the shape of a croissant, to be eaten with dall & vegetable. Cha-cha is savoured in copious quantities to keep the body warm. Potatoes and spinach and other vegetables are stored underground in this cold weather. They say the snow leopard comes sometimes in the night and tries to take a goat or sheep away.

Chota Bheem plays on television as I watch riveted with kids. Dinner is served & is sumptuous, with mutter-paneer for variety. I praise the food wholeheartedly bringing a smile to the mother’s face. She asks me to take the village kids to Yurutse for company. They show me my room and the bukhari is lit-up to make it warm and cozy. I go out to relieve myself and see that the weather has cleared up. The view of the sky is surreal with millions of stars shining so brightly, I can scarcely believe my eyes.

Morning is sunny and the full splendour of the valley is laid out before us. We have breakfast and set off for Yurutse, my companions being Nyima, Tundup, Stanzin & Norbu. Within no time we spot blue sheep on a nearby hillock. Fresh footprints of a wolf and wild fox are identified in the snow. Nyima, the eldest of the three says ‘The snow leopard must be around.’

Read : Practical tips for winter travel in Ladakh

They regale me with fascinating children’s tales regards the landscape and the various colours of the mountains. We build a snowman, enjoying the simple pleasures of life. Yurutse at 4200m is a one home village on the way to 4920m Ganda La, the altitude taking full toll of me as we reach. The family welcomes us by serving lunch and the ubiquitous cha-cha. They refuse to take money when offered. Its a very old house, the prayer flags flutter amid azure blue skies and a pristine barren landscape, with a frozen river completing the pretty picture.

Yak butter is bought, so are hand-made socks and gloves from the family. They are colourful and delicately woven and cheap. A piece of iron to skate on is found from somewhere as we head back to Rumbak. The kids walk effortlessly and take turns to skate on the frozen river. I fall flat on my face with a thud on my first attempt. Slipping is a part of the game here as everybody laughs at my misery. We reach Rumbak before the night sets in.  What an adventurous day this has turned out to be!

I thank the mother and the kids for everything, and in return they give me a glass of chhang(locally made barley beer). Even the small child of 5 years is drinking it with biscuits; they say it is good for the body. A phone call to my family is made from the one satellite phone in the village.

We retire for the night after having dinner while watching Chota Bheem, me having almost become an integral part of the family now. I wander around for a bit gazing at the clear night skies as the generator is switched off and everything becomes pitch dark.

My worries of walking back alone are noticed by the family in the morning. They feed me breakfast and ask me to come back again someday, as I gift them a bottle of ‘seabuckthorn jam’. Nyima & Stanzin come halfway to drop me. I almost run down the rest all by myself and arrive in Zingchen in an hour. Luck is on my side and I get a ride back to Leh for free!

I had heard so much about the famed (touristy) Chadar trek. A mixture of circumstances put me on a path prettier than everything else to send me on an epic sojourn that will remain etched forever in my heart. While I am not saying that this can be compared to the Chadar Trek, this region of the Snow Leopard in Markha Valley is for those who prefer the calm.

Read : Khardung La in Winter : Part 1

There’s a little bit of mountain in all of us.

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