Here’s a compilation of some spring photographs from Nainital : The locals said these were peach blossoms but the larger internet world thinks they are smarter and announced that they were cherry blossoms. After all cherry blossoms are more exotic and romantic and sell better and I went with the half-lie too. So here’s presenting peach (err cherry blossoms) of Nainital. Shall I just call them pink blossoms? (Cunning laughter!)

Today morning I realised it was 31 May and that would mean the month of May passing by without a new post on the blog. The numerous ones in progress would take time. This post didn’t take much time but definitely rekindled nice memories of carefree travel when we hitchhiked and took a bus ride during Covid times and actually ate at a super crowded dhaba like the old days!

Hope this post makes you happy too! Would love to hear in the comments.

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We woke up early in the morning and reached to the bus stop (at 7 am) which was hardly 5 mins from Newa Home (where we stayed, recommended by a friend). There were 4-5 buses and all of them were headed to either Pokhara or other tourist-friendly destinations. I noticed that 3 of the buses were bound for Pokhara. Our aim was to catch the bus which would leave the earliest.

Also read : A Day in Misty Kurseong

We were 4 of us and knew that since it was off season, there was plenty of scope for bargaining on the bus ticket price. A guy approaches us from the Kathmandu-Pokhara Air Conditioned bus, scheduled to leave at 730 am and quotes a price of 800 per person. After checking that the seats were in the middle and not the rear, we agreed a final price of 600 Nepali Rupees per person.

There were many foreigners in the bus and were rushing the bus to leave on time. The bus guy took us aside and told us there’s still 15 minutes for us to start our journey and that we can eat something if we want. We were hungry and found a small local eatery serving tea, sell roti with chickpeas. The bus leaves on time and is almost full. We hope to reach Pokhara by 130 pm as the distance from Kathmandu to Pokhara is only 180 kms.

It begins drizzling after we cross the sizeable city of Kathmandu and we are stuck in a massive traffic jam around 930 am. We are reminded of India a decade or two ago with the chaos of the traffic jam with no news of its resolution. The progress is painfully slow and instead of reaching Pokhara at 130 pm, we have just reached a lunch place set by the river!

The restaurant-dhaba is an expensive place, with buffet lunch for NPR 300 per person. We are hungry and have no choice but to eat; the spread is excellent though with salad, papad, noodles, dall, rice, and 2 vegetable curries. The sitting area is shaded and we eat well considering it might be our only meal of the day. It is sweltering hot and humid and we are grateful for having chosen an air conditioned bus over the faster but non-ac maxi shared taxi instead.

We are ecstatic when the conductor announces that we have reached Pokhara at about 4 pm. The bus parking is at an almost inaccessible place full of slush, leading to a gaggle of taxi operators quoting astronomical prices. We made our way out of the area and immediately found a taxi for NPR 200 that dropped us close to Phewa Lake. Our aim was to find a reasonably priced place to stay in Pokhara.

I hadn’t done any research and entered a lane full of guest houses and were able to finalise a nice place for 1200 NPR for 2 rooms. It was a family run place with some open spaces; the bathroom was shared but since we there were only 4 of us – it was no problem at all. The young guy at the reception was happy to fill our bottles with filter water and that really saved us a lot of money!

Phewa Lake

After having done all this in less than an hour, there was still plenty of time left for us to stroll to Phewa Lake. There was a temple at the start of the entry point to Phewa Lake I was mightily surprised to see some geisha-like tourists there. It was nice to know that there were no entry charges for the entrance to the lakeside.

It felt like a festive atmosphere as we strolled on the walking path around Phewa Lake. Many local families were out for a picnic with their kids. Colourful boats occupy centerstage in the lake and with the sun setting with the mountain view, made for a pristine sight. I enjoyed clicking photographs of the serene setting.

To the right of the walking path, there were restaurants and cafe’s advertising fast foods, snacks, juices, offers on drinks and beers! Prices of the restaurants were quite high because this was a proper tourist spot. Sunset on Phewa Lake seemed like an especially popular time and there were also some street sellers grilling fresh meat and selling ‘sekuwa’. It felt like a wonderland, full of happy people with smiling faces.

We continued walking on the path and sat whenever we felt the urge to enjoy the views fully. There were 2 people/4 people boats and we saw few tourists enjoying their time boating in the lake. The ticket counter had rates for the same which seemed quite reasonable. Some hawkers were also selling freshly prepared corn on cob. The cafés located farther away look prettier and some of them are playing live music to entice the passersby!

Some of the prettier looking cafés are full of foreigners – they are on the other side of the lake and have calmer sitouts, mellow lights, relaxed music and cheap beer! It is a joyful atmosphere with impromptu guitar and singing sessions. We start having hunger pangs with the lunch feeling like a distant memory now!

The air is still pretty humid and we are thankful for the breeze without which it would have been quite sweaty on the walk. The sunset is stunning and while we debated about sitting at one of cafés and enjoying beer (150 NPR for San Miguel beer), we ended up being indecisive and walked to the main street before it got dark. Many guest houses and hostels for backpackers. Advertised food joints serving different variety of food; Tibetan, Vietnamese, Chinese, European.

Free-wifi is advertised prominently; it reminds me of backpacker friendly tourist destinations in India many years ago where wifi is a popular way of enticing international tourists. We come across a stunningly beautiful restaurant by the name of Byanjan – done up in gorgeous blue and white colours but it turns out to be super expensive when we check the menu! We sit on the upper floor of a nearby restaurant and sip draught Sherpa beer and eat excellent Margarita Pizza.

The staff recommends an authentic Nepali restaurant for dinner nearby, one Fewa Thakali Bhanchha Ghar. We enter the eatery and are pleasantly surprised to see it is fully occupied with local families. The interior sitting space is in a traditional style, walls are in maroon and white with low tables and cushions laid out on the floor. We find a solitary empty table on the roof and grab the same!

The food turns out to be excellent; served in brass plates. We were recommended momos made with buckwheat and a thali which was full of greens that had a unique taste. The prices are reasonable too for the excellent and authentic variety of food and the Thali costs us NPR 300. We thank the staff and go walking on the streets of Pokhara.

There are cyclewallahs as fruit sellers roaming on a cycle with a juicer and offering fruits like pineapples, avocados, mangoes, banana, oranges etc like a mobile fruit market on wheels! Its fun to see them stop wherever they see foreign tourists. Pokhara is a busy market with many souvenir shops. We enter a shop selling Tibetan singing bowls, and it has a wide and staggering variety. The singing bowls make a serene and calming sound but the handmade ones are priced very high (medium sized ones at NPR 1500) and we choose not to buy anything for the moment.

We walk back to our guest house and are relieved that the weather has turned cooler with the recent rain. It is decided to head to Begnas Tal next morning as my friends Jai & Prerita are staying there and highly recommend the area. Sleep comes in no time with the tiredness of the bus ride!

I had spotted the bus from Pokhara to Begnas Tal and found that the starting point of the same was from Phewa Lake itself! So, we woke up in the morning, had chai and an early breakfast and got ready quickly to leave in the bus bound for Begnas Tal. The ticket is only 60 NPR per person and we are the only 4 people in the bus when it starts from Phewa Lake! It is a comfortable bus and will take around an hour for the 25 odd kilometre distance to Begnas Tal.

We call Jai after the bus drops us in Begnas Tal. He explains the directions to get to a place called Sanu Lake on D Water. A local street festival is going on in Begnas Tal, we are delighted to see the dances and the ladies all dressed for the occasion. We keep walking across Begnas Tal lake, cross a small hillock and arrive at the beautifully located Sanu Lake on D Water.

Sanu Lake on D Water in Lekhnath

It is a pristine scene, with not a soul around and calm, placid waters of the lake. There are blue and yellow coloured boats in the water and with the surrounding green hills look very pretty. We meet with Sanu and check the rooms and agree on the price. It is a gorgeously located guest house with rustic tables set in an open sit-out very close to the lake.

Sanu tells us that some of the rooms are blessed with views of the Himalayan peaks when the weather is clear. Kayaking is also possible in the lake and Jai has already told me about the fantastic swimming experiences possible here. Relaxed opera music is being played and reflections of the nearby mountains in the water look enchanting. We fix the prices with Sanu @800 NPR per room including breakfast.

We only plan to stay for a night here as Jai & Prerita are going to be moving to a higher area in Pokhara itself and we plan to see that region too! We walk out and spot some nicely located tiny eateries near the lake, it is a surreal setting for sure. Some of the walls at Sanu Lake on D Water are painted with graffiti and they also have life jackets available for for swimmers. Jai calls and asks us to come to the village where a festival is being held in the fields!

The rice fields are submerged in water and youngsters are happily singing and dancing in the muddy water over some funny looking competitions! Its very humid and we find a shaded corner to protect ourselves in the harsh sun. Locals are watching the proceedings and it is an especially funny scene to see foreigners rolling in the mud too!

I decide to try a bread at a small bakery and it turns out to be delicious! Jai & Prerita take us to a home run eatery near Sanu Lake on D Water. We order thalis and the family sets about the task of making everything fresh. Food takes a lot of time to appear but is well worth the wait when it does. Rice, fried potatoes, dall, vegetable, curd, chutney and salad and the puri sabji is excellent too.

It is the World Cup 2019 and today is England vs India; Jai leads us to an open air space with an expansive view of Begnas Tal and a television screen. We happily drink Nepali beer (300 NPR per bottle) like Gorkha and Everest while playing UNO. Jai is mostly interested in watching cricket and all of us take turns with the match too! It is a supremely serene setting. We go back in the evening after an early dinner of chowmein at a small eatery nearby because the food at Sanu is quite expensive!

We watch India losing the cricket match under the stars on the roof with Jai’s VPN connection! There is no electricity for a few hours and it is blissful to enjoy the stars overhead. We all go for a short swim in the lake in the darkness when Jai insists it is an unbelievable experience!

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It is a comfortable sleep with the breeze blowing and next morning we enjoy the tea and breakfast sitting by the lake. The sun is out and we jump in the water to enjoy the blissfully cool lake! Tranquil setting with live guitar playing, a traveller is playing and singing. Breakfast is roti, potatoes, egg bhurji and fruits.

We check out and Sanu’s true colours are revealed when Jai & Prerita try to settle their bill! He has apparently charged them for beers that they never had. We have been charged princely prices for bananas and fat rotis that he has served in the name of breakfast which he had included in the prices earlier! We somehow end the matter without a fight and pay up (nodding to ourselves that we had correctly judged Sanu’s cunning character but had still let him work his charms on us.)

Dinesh House Deorali & Robin’s Nest Deorali

We walk to the market in Begnas Tal and book 2 small Maruti Altos to drop us to Deorali area, an uphill climb of 3 kms. Pay 150 NPR each cab, very reasonable. We get down close to a temple and continue walking to reach Dinesh House (where Jai’s room is booked for 2 weeks!). There are no spare rooms at Dinesh House and we check out the nearby Robin’s Nest. The woman in charge there shows us the rooms and even though they are not very well ventilated, the weather is mild and we agree on a price of INR 600 per room including breakfast.

It is a relaxed evening and we play UNO in Jai’s spacious room with a balcony at Dinesh House. Prerita orders our thalis too at their in-house kitchen. We go to the roof to catch the sunset amid the surreal evening skies. We enjoy a few chilled beers in the evening as the clouds turn stormy and bring rain in the night. We have an excellent dinner at Dinesh House, thanks to Jai & Prerita.

We come back to Robin’s Nest and it starts pouring down as soon as we are in our rooms! The electricity goes with the sky thundering intermittently and it continues raining for a good two hours. We sleep well and wake up to the the best sight of our trip (or life?!)

The skies have cleared and the majestic Annapurna range is visible from our balcony. Our guest house, Robin’s Nest is perfectly located for this view and we lounge around on the hammock and take in the surreal sight of 8000 metre peaks in clear view! Jai and Prerita also join us and tell us that we are very lucky to see this sight in the monsoon month of July. We enjoy the show for an hour or so until the clouds decide to come back.

After breakfast, we have a shower and decide to walk around the area. It has progressed into a hot day with the sun out in full force. We visit the nearby Deorali temple and are stunned with the majestic wood carvings. The entrance to the temples in Nepal is very ornate and artistic. I am especially glad to come across a non-touristy local temple in a real village.

It is afternoon time and we are all hungry with all the aimless walking around in the humidity. We come across a small eatery run by a lady and ask her if she can make noodles with mint chutney and vegetables? She says it will take time as everything will be freshly made. We are pleased with the answer and decide to wait and help her in making it! The noodles take around 45 minutes to make and turn out to be the most delicious noodles of our entire Nepal trip.

We go back happily to Deorali and witness the cloudy skies in the evening with the beautiful landscape and the views of Begnas Tal lake. It is time for another round of UNO and dinner at Dinesh House. It rains in the evening making the proceedings cooler. The food is delicious again and we also watch another World Cup cricket match in progress. We decide to drop all plans for Muktinath or hiking in the Pokhara region and plan to get to Kathmandu next day(Bhaktapur.)

The cloud cover is heavy in the morning and the mountains are not clearly visible. We have tea and breakfast with the greenery glistening in the brief period of sunshine. In an hour or so, when the clouds part a gap in the clouds reveals a dazzling array of peaks! It is like a goodbye photograph from Pokhara as we are going to leave in some time.

We all leave for Pokhara first for a pizza treat (losers in the UNO game) and decide on Roadhouse Café as the venue. See some souvenir shops selling Shaligrams. The pizza is ok-ok and we eat cake and pastries for dessert at another nearby place. Say goodbye to Jai and Prerita and thank them for a lovely time!

We decide to go by shared maxi cab while going back. We are quoted 600 NPR per seat but the intense competition between the cabs works and we get into a maxi cab for 400 NPR per person! They are faster than a bus but non-aircontioned. Thankfully the weather is good today and we have reasonable space in the maxi cab!

We reach Kathmandu at around 8 pm.

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Here is a pick of my :

                   ‘Top Travel Memories from Thailand’

Watch the insects create sand art on the beach

At first I didn’t believe it; while walking on a secluded beach in Krabi I observed the sand had beautiful patterns. As I kept watching, I realised that the sand patterns were being created while I was walking. Upon closer inspection it was understood that the insects were at work; basically they were scampering across the sand and into their burrow. While the insects may not have realised that their scampering was creating designs on the sand; I had a memorable time observing nature’s magic.

Temple of the Reclining Buddha (Wat Pho)

Wat Pho is set in a compound that has the largest collection of Buddha statues in entire Thailand and the star attraction is the humongous Reclining Buddha (Wat Pho). The structures in the Wat Pho complex are a classic example of Thai architecture. Although Wat Pho can get very crowded; it is well worth coming here for a sight of the stunning golden reclining Buddha (Also called Wat Phra Chetuphon). It is open on all days from 8 am to 630 pm.

Temple of the Emerald Buddha (Wat Phra Kaew)

In the same complex as the Grand Palace, Wat Phra Kaew is a temple with a statue of the Emerald Buddha. It is considered to be Thailand’s holiest image and is also steeped in a feeling of monarchy since it is located so close to the Grand Palace. Wat Phra Kaew is a visual extravaganza and architecture wise is counted among Bangkok’s finest temples. The ornamentation on display in the main temple is astonishing and the colour used is predominantly golden. The Emerald Buddha statue is tiny (only 66cms high) and is said to have originated in the 13th or 14th Century. The Ramakian Murals (just outside the main temple chamber are not to be missed as they depict the Thai version of the Indian epic Ramayana.

Sunset watching on Ao Nang Beach

During my time at Krabi, on one of the days I wandered over to Ao Nang and was advised by the locals to stay back at least till sunset. And they were right, the spectacle of watching sunset at Ao Nang is impeccable! The sky is bathed in myriad hues of yellow, pink and orange as the sunset show plays across Ao Nang. There’s a promenade at Ao Nang; and a beach is nearby. I thanked the locals wholeheartedly and couldn’t quite believe what I had just witnessed!

Impeccable shades of green and blue in Krabi on the boat

It is one thing to come across those perfect beach photographs and an entirely different experience to see multiple shades of green and blue on a boat ride. In Krabi and Koh Samui, I went on different Long Tail Boat Rides and Speedboat rides. One of the long tail boat rides was a 4 island boat ride that covered the islands of Phra Nang Beach, Poda Island, Tup Island and Chicken Island. A long tail boat ride is a traditional boat used in these regions. We left in the morning and came back by evening after spending time on all four islands. As the sun moved from east to west the colours of the water changed from light green to dark blue. That was the day when I saw different shades of teal, blue, light blue, aquamarine and many more with my own eyes!

Bioluminescence on a night boat ride

For me, experiencing bioluminescence was a totally unexpected discovery. Originally I was supposed to be only on a day cruise but the boat company made some mistake and put me on an evening boat ride. It was a speedboat ride and after watching a memorable sunset when it became totally dark; one of the boat guys jumped in the water and brought the water to life in the darkness. I couldn’t quite believe it; especially because I hadn’t even heard about the phenomena of bioluminescence at that time. It was a New Moon day and in the absence of any artificial light, the bioluminescence felt simply surreal.

Traipsing on the Monkey Trail

When I was staying in Krabi; it was connected to the bigger town of Ao Nang through a staircase quirkily named the ‘Monkey Trail!’ It was so called as the trail passes through a dense green jungle inhabited by a lot of monkeys. I was initially a bit worried since the monkeys seemed very used to humans and tourists passing by. However there are signboards on the trail that instructed to not give them any food and that helped. The stairs continued well into the jungle and after climbing high, stunning views of a pristine beach were visible. After the initial skepticism of the monkey trail, I made it a point to cross it once more during my time in Krabi and Ao Nang.

It seems that now is a golden time to visit Thailand; with the Thailand Government announcing zero visa fees for Thai Visa on Arrival for Indian tourists till October 2019. Here are more details on the same : Thailand eVisa Indian citizens

Note : This post has been written in collaboration with ThailandVisa. However the content, photographs and words are all mine.

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Kas was a more logical choice since it lie first on the road, and as if by providence as soon as we reached Antalya Otogar (Otogar is bus station in Turkish), there was a small bus ready to take us to Kas. The officer mentioned the ticket fare as 20 TL-Turkish Lira and we confirmed the same with other passengers. Our huge bags were kept in the luggage compartment and we were ready to roll after a hurried visit to the toilets at Antalya Otogar.

After about an hour of leaving Antalya, the road wound up the mountainside and revealed an unending view of the Mediterranean Sea. I wished that the bus wasn’t air-conditioned and would let me open the window to savour the incredibly beautiful sight of the blue water.

The bus was a run by a local operator and picked up passengers at numerous stops. After around 3-4 hours, we finally reached Kas Otogar which felt uninspiring since I had dozed off and was woken up with a jolt. No sooner had I got out of the bus, I was hit by the piercing sunshine since it was just past noon. It felt hotter than it really was, maybe due to our having spent considerable time in far colder Istanbul and freezing Cappadocia. We immediately put our #AllDayWifi to use google maps and reach the hotel. It was only a short walk away but felt very tiring due to the heat.

Kas showed a glimpse of its small town beauty when we walked from the bus station (otogar) to the hotel. The main road had umpteen open air restaurants and surprisingly the staff even called out to us to try their offerings. I had noticed the restaurant’s signboard menus with prices and was pleased to note that the eateries had reasonable rates. The hotel lane was full of artistic frames with pretty flowers hanging outside wooden doors. Most hotels (pansiyon’s) were family run establishments and they seemed to be devoid of tourists.

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We were pleased with a view of the Mediterranean sea from the room, it was quite hot though and I dozed off for a while. My headache was gone once I was up again, and a quick shower later we were out on the street searching for our lunch stop. I asked a few locals and decided to sit at a eatery serving both vegetarian and non-vegetarian food. In Turkey, freshly baked bread comes complementary with the dishes.

1 dish normally suffices for one person and is priced anywhere from 8 Turkish Liras to 20 Turkish Liras. Water is not served in restaurants and one needs to buy water bottles for the same. After a hearty meal, we went walking around Kas. Our first stop was the Antiphellos – Ancient Theatre which is a Roman Amphitheater built in 200 BC. It is a circular structure facing the Mediterranean Sea and has seating to hold around 4000 people. All in all, it was a fascinating historical sight with stunning views of the blue Mediterranean sea while the background was full of towering green mountains.

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I had spotted a cute looking lighthouse from our room and we immediately set about finding it. At the intersection of the market, a whitewashed mosque stood tall. A gaggle of travel companies advertised boat tours to the Greek island of Meis. The pier was to our right and among other popular boat tours, a visit to the sunken city of Kekova was widely advertised. We had no Greek visa and hence it made no sense to try and make that 25 Euro day trip to Meis. The lighthouse towered over the surroundings even as the sun was still shining strong.

Someone suggested that we should walk on a circular path that would enable us to explore a different part of Kas and we set out for the same. There were artistic boutiques selling dresses, Turkish cotton towels, pottery, souvenirs, carpets, soaps etc. Every second establishment was an eatery; and unlike the simple and cheap ones on the main road, these restaurants had gorgeously colourful chairs and a fancy vibe. This part of town was laid-back and geared up for tourists. A sole Dondurma shop occupied centerstage as I noticed some tourists clamouring for the ice-cream.

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Kas suddenly felt more livelier as evening descended on town. Sunsets across the sea are always pretty and the sky changed colours repeatedly. As night fell, we walked back to our accommodation fully convinced that we needed to spend more time exploring Kas. It was Diwali that day and fireworks looked dazzling in the far distance across the Mediterranean Sea. We also understood that there was a different area in Kas away from the market and with better views of the Mediterranean Sea.

Since our plan was flexible; I immediately set about finding accommodation for the next 2-3 days. The search revealed we could stay in a ‘Villa’ in an area called Kas Peninsula that was around 6-8 kms away from where we were staying. Next day, we woke up to a spectacular morning view while sitting in the breakfast area of the hotel. 4 tables had been laid out under trees surrounded by greenery while the inviting blue waters of the Mediterranean Sea beckoned in front of us.

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The platter of feta cheese, tomatoes, honey, jams, Turkish Coffee and Turkish tea, other varieties of cheese and breads made for delicious breakfast (as always). A family run place always has a warm feel and I didn’t hesitate to ask for another round of cheese and bread, with more Turkish tea. We met a kind soul when we went to ask the taxi price for dropping us on the peninsula. He helped us with the exchange from Euro to Turkish Lira(Turkish Lira); helping us bargain for a Zara Man jacket at a store, and in arranging a taxi to Kas Peninsula for 30 Turkish Lira.

We had spotted a small dolmus (shared taxi) that plied from Kas to Kas Peninsula and ferried passengers for 4 TL but taking that would have meant trouble with the bags. Therefore we first went to the taxi stand; and we were flabbergasted to know the official taxi rates. The small distance commanded a fare of more than 60 TL and we immediately went back to ask our newly-made acquaintance to ask his taxi friend to come and drop us for 30 TL. As we moved towards Kas Peninsula, the views of the Mediterranean Sea became even prettier.

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We were surprised to spot a tiny portion of white sand beach to our left and the fact that many local families were enjoying that hardly 20 metres of beach! At that moment, I quietly appreciated things that we sometimes take for granted; like the enormous coastline with beaches; in India. We couldn’t control our amazement and were totally in awe of the postcard perfect look of the villa once we were dropped at the gates. An endless expanse of blue spread in front of us; and the villa was a four storey structure in pretty off-white colour.

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The staff was excited about meeting Indian tourists (thanks bollywood) and the owner showed us the different rooms and even offered us an upgrade but we were happy to stick to our original choice. The dining area was set up beside the pool and the ambience was almost perfect for a romantic setting, including the mellow dance music that played all day. The colours were soft and pleasing to the eyes and with the aesthetic beauty of the Mediterranean Sea we felt we were living a proverbial Greek fairytale.

We had been smart enough to buy hordes of wine bottles at the wineries of Cappadocia and wasted no time in finding majestic drinking spaces in our ‘Villa.’ There was also a walkway that took us right to the waters of the Mediterranean sea, since there was no beach on the coast. The rocky cliffs shined white in the afternoon sun and the water was in a pristine shade of green, blue, turquoise and aquamarine. Classy sun-beds had been laid out in different enclosures and depending on the intensity of the sun we chose the shaded part or the alfresco sun beds.

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After a short swim in the sea, we decided to lie down and watch the sky changing colours. It was quiet and the serene setting just amplified nature’s beauty to the next level. We ambled around the various nooks and corners of the villa soaking in the prettiness and enjoying the views. The colours were even more pronounced during sunset. I could try and type a nice quote but it would be inadequate to express the magical sights in Kas across the Mediterranean Sea that day.

Since the villa was in a nice and secluded area, it didn’t make sense for us to try and head out for dinner. Also, we had assumed that since Kas Peninsula was an area full of villas and boutique hotels, there would not be any local eateries. We asked for the menu at the Villa that we were staying at so that there would be no price shocks later. There were only a few options with manageably high prices and dinner for two cost us around 60 Turkish Lira.

Fine Dining at its very best – In Kas, Turkey

In that setting, it could rival the finest fine-dine restaurant in the world. On one side, there was a never ending view of the tranquil blue waters of the Mediterranean Sea while Kas town’s harbour with a backdrop of green mountains was visible on the other side. The staff (A couple from Tblisi, Georgia) was really helpful and covered us with shawls as it got breezy and cold outside in the night. We played Indian songs on the speaker and danced happily, with our tummies happy with copious amounts of wine.

Next morning when I woke up and walked to the open air sit-out, the charming sight in front of me will be etched forever in my mind. The pink bougainvillea blooms with the blue sea, a ship floating past, all while a mellow breeze blew across Kas – it was a glorious melangé of colours. The proceedings could not have become any better until we went to the postcard perfect breakfast area of the Villa. An array of different varieties of cheese, jams, coffee, tea, olives and other delights were brought to the table by our friend from Georgia as we gobbled down the cheese and tomatoes with aplomb.

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It was decided to go walking around Kas Peninsula after what seemed like a never ending breakfast. During the day, the water of the Mediterranean Sea shimmered like stars. The weather was quite hot and we tried to find some shade wherever we could. In no time, a ride came our way and I wasted no time in flagging it down. The gentleman didn’t speak any English but was happy to drop us to Kas. As we were just about to enter Kas, the small matter of a weekend market came to view.

Locals thronged the market that looked like it had been setup only a few hours ago. One section was dedicated to vegetables and fruits sold by farmers at wholesale prices, another section comprised of dry fruit sellers. Street food vendors were doing brisk business feeding hungry passersby. I tried a glass of Ayran (Turkish buttermilk) for 5 TL that tasted a bit sour for my liking. A giant parantha-sort of dish was also being made on the pan, the lady at the counter mentioned it as gozleme which had a filling of spinach and the price for the same was 10 TL.

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And while we were roaming around, it was an inexplicable joy to stumble upon the cloth market area. There were enthusiastic sellers showcasing carpets, bed linen, towels, shirts, jackets and a whole plethora of other products of day-to-day use. It was good humour while we bargained to shop to our heart’s content. Turkish textiles are really good quality and I went berserk shopping for value-for-money buys. My best souvenir from Turkey was a bed cover / carpet for approx. 2000 Rupees. Later when we were wandering in the market, shops advertised the same carpet for more than 5000 Rupees.

We had also found a way to not exchange all the Euros into Turkish Liras by asking the sellers the prices in Euros and Turkish Liras and conveniently paying whatever exchange suited us more. It was late afternoon by the time we ended up near the boutique shops of Kas. The weather had suddenly turned stormy and a pleasant evening suddenly turned chilly. It was time to chat with the locals and finally try dondurma at the locally favourite shop. It cost us only 5 Turkish Lira each and the dondurma was out of the world tasty!

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We had not carried a jacket and were happily roaming around in shorts but now we were more than 5 kilometres away from our ‘Villa’ and had no idea about the timings of the dolmus (shared taxi). Our only aim was to reach the villa before dark.

As we stood at the dolmus bus stand, locals helped us get into the right dolmus destined for Kas Peninsula and akin to our customary ways of impromptu explorations we got down from the dolmus before reaching our destination. The walk along the Mediterranean coast watching an epic sunset easily became one of the highlights of our trip to Turkey.

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‘Life is short. Try to see as many sunsets as you can.’

Check these posts : Photo Stories from Hornbill Festival, Nagaland

Life in a Secret Village : Near Great Himalayan National Park in Himachal Pradesh

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Where Exactly is Malabar Coast in Kerala?

The Northern part of Kerala adjoining the beach is known as Malabar coast and the entire region is enchanting. I was instantly in love with the sparsely crowded beaches surrounded by coconut plantations, a constant stiff breeze bringing fresh air, inland waterways called backwaters and fragrant spice plantations.

My Most Memorable Experiences from the Malabar Coast, Kerala

The Peaceful Beach at Nileshwaram

Nileshwaram (Also called Neeleshwar or Nileshwar) is a small village characterised by swaying palm trees and pristine beaches. It is blessed with a charming location on the Malabar Coast in Kerala. I distinctly remember being lulled to sleep by the sound of the crashing waves in Nileshwaram.

Nileshwar Palace is the old palace of Nileshwaram Rajas. In the morning, it was magical to walk on the pristine white sandy beach with cool sand in the feet. Hammocks hung beneath towering coconut trees almost extending an invitation as we lay on sun beds soaking in the gorgeous views of the ocean. Little huts on the sand had been laid out on the beach itself and it was otherworldly to enjoy breakfast in the beautiful surroundings. I did not get to experience it, but Theyyam performances in Nileshwar are quite popular even among local Keralites.

1500 year old Ship Building Industry in Beypore

Beypore is a sleepy town located on the banks of the Chaliyar river and a traditional hub for shipbuilding on the Malabar Coast of Kerala. It is situated around 10-15 kms away from Kozhikode. I’d boarded an auto rickshaw for going to shipbuilding area in Beypore but due to the language confusion, the auto guy dropped me in an entirely different place. Google maps came to the rescue and I somehow walked to the shipbuilding area in Beypore with my (huge) backpack. I was in an awkward scenario dripping in sweat unable to adjust to the humidity of the Malabar Coast in Kerala, even in the comparatively cooler month of February.

As soon as I reached the shipbuilding lane, I was astounded to see the huge ship being worked on by a number of carpenters. They were busy working on the partially built ship of wooden logs, and for me it was like being thrust right into the middle of the action. With the limited interaction possible due to the language barrier, I couldn’t really talk much but the people tried to show me the ship from the inside and explain the process.

From the limited knowledge I gathered – Ships made in Beypore are called uru in the local parlance. The Uru is a wooden dhow, quite huge in size and a single ship may sometimes take 2-3 years to build. Jackfruit tree wood and rosewood are used for designing the interiors. According to the workers, these ships are made without any fixed work plan or blueprint; apparently the mistry gives daily instructions to the workers. It was astonishing to know thats how the entire ship is built!

1498 – First Europeans set foot in India at Kappad Beach

I’d read in history books long back in school that Calicut is the place where the first Europeans landed in India. After coming to Kerala, it was known that Kappad Beach is the historic beach where Vasco da Gama landed on 27th May 1498. That is how the Portuguese history and the colonial history of India had its inception. Kappad beach is located around 20 kms north of Kozhikode on the Malabar Coast in Kerala.

To my surprise, upon reaching Kappad beach, there was a monument commemorating the same spot where Vasco da Gama landed more than 500 years ago; it is called Kappakadavu. If you are a history lover, Kappad beach has an old world charm of bygone times and it also makes for a nice place to spend an evening to enjoy a gorgeous sunset as well.

Experiencing the Magical Backwaters on Malabar Coast, Kerala

The backwaters on the Malabar Coast of Kerala consist of a zig-zag network of lagoons, lakes & canals and is a truly memorable delight. I was lucky to experience the backwaters in the recommended, local manner. We were on a traditional thatch-roofed houseboat, locally known as ‘kettuvallam’ and it slowly floated through the maze of canals.

Almost all the houseboats plying in the backwaters around Malabar Coast in Kerala are renovated cargo boats that are complete with all modern comforts and conveniences. According to the locals I met, nearly every family owns a houseboat in this region. It was stunning to observe the sunset from the houseboat while the beauty of the colours of nature got accentuated in the reflections on water.

On the houseboat ride, we were in the pristine valiyaparamba backwaters of Kerala, and had a glimpse of unspoilt nature with age-old traditions. Villages are set in the backwaters and are surrounded by paddy fields, their main occupation is fishing. The funniest memory for me is when I pretended to be the Captain of the Ship by wearing the hat and steering the wheel left and right!

Slow Walks in the Bounty of Nature

Walks in the countryside of Malabar Coast region took me on little trails that were shaded with coconut trees. I meandered through the plantations which are perfect for short hikes. Wherever you go, the trails are blessed with stunning vistas of the backwaters, and runs very close to pristine beaches. The locals I met all through the journeys in Kerala were very friendly and inspite of the language barrier, my time in this state will remain a cherished memory.

Delicious Kallumakkai (mussels) Biryani in Thalassery

Thalassery is a beautiful old town with a fort on the Malabar Coast in Kerala. Out of the around 8000 tonnes of green mussels harvested annually in north Kerala, Thalassery is one of the top three producers of mussels. Malabari biryani, especially the Thalassery Biryani, has a subtle taste and not heavily flavoured like its North Indian counterpart. While Hyderabad is famous for dum biryani, Thalassery mussel biryani is really meant to be savoured as one of the top biryanis in India!

And what a sight it was; after we ended up at one of the recommended eateries in Thalassery town. We were 8 of us, and we ate like hungry beasts eager to devour whatever variety of biryani appeared on the table!

Apart from the Biryani in Thalassery; Mambally’s Royal Biscuit Factory is the place where the plum cake was baked in India over 135 years ago. While Thalassery’s biryanis are famous, it is the mussel biryani that is a must try. There are many restaurants recommended by the locals and Rara Avis is a safe bet. Another interesting fact about Thalassery is that cricket was first played here in India.

Sunset at Bekal Beach near Kasaragod, Kerala

If not for catching the sunset, this experience could have easily made it to the Failures on the Road – Stupidity in Changthang, Ladakh. I had started the day in Kozhikode and after visiting the Ship Builders in Beypore had decided to head in the direction of Kannur and then try and make it somewhere close to Mangalore and try and find a cheap homestay and chill on the beach anywhere on the Malabar Coast!

In reality, I somehow got to Kannur in a slow bus, reached the train station to take a train to Kasaragod. The train turned out to be quite late and it was around evening by the time I reached Kasaragod. Kasaragod didn’t quite turn out to be the tropical paradise that I had dreamed it to be. I quickly made up my mind and boarded a bus to reach Bekal. Bekal also turned out to be a town where the beach wasn’t as close as I had thought it would be. I ran shelter-skelter with my bags before it became dark to try and find a homestay near the beach. After some hitched rides and unsuccessful stories, I finally landed on the beach near Taj Bekal.

I hadn’t found a homestay yet but the sun was setting and the scene was so immense that I was torn between two feelings. I was very worried about finding a nice homestay, but also immensely happy to have made it to the pristine Bekal beach. I spent some time enjoying the after-sunset colours; walked back to the main road to get lucky, hitch a ride and found a cheap place to stay.

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Photo Story : Snapshots from Tawang Festival

As was customary during the trip, we woke up early but did not leave till very late. After breakfast, we sat in our respective cars and left for Bumla at around 9 am (If memory serves me right). We were later told that the reason for our getting late was due to the permits which felt a little strange considering that Bumla had always been on our original schedule of the Arunachal Pradesh itinerary. Nevertheless, we were finally on the long and lonely road to Bumla and were greeted with a fabulous change of scenery as soon as we left from Tawang.

Since some of us hadn’t had our breakfast, we stopped along the way for some roti sabzi and black tea in a restaurant. After a quick break, we continue the drive to Bumla. A local Tata Sumo has been hired from Tawang specifically for the purpose of us visiting Bumla and around. I spot a lot of bunkers on both the left and right side of the road and am perplexed why there are bunkers so deep into the Indian territory. There don’t seem to be any permanent dwellings and I can’t spot any locals nor is there any sign of a village. There’s a chilling answer that awaits me!

Why are there so many bunkers on the Tawang to Bumla road?

Because the Chinese had intruded as far as Tezpur during the 1962 China-India war and the bunkers were made in a hurry to combat the enemy troops. 

I gawked wide-eyed at the driver when he remarked that these bunkers were constructed by the army due to the Chinese aggression. Inspite of having read my history lessons in school, I had no inkling of this fact from 1962. It gave me the chills to realise that the whole of Assam might have been vulnerable to Chinese occupation. I learnt that the Chinese were in Tezpur during October-November 1962.

It was a mind-numbing fact for me to understand that a foreign power had almost captured a town 400 kilometres inside Indian territory! Along the way, there were signboards indicating that photography wasn’t allowed and hence we didn’t stop anywhere along the route till a point called Y Junction. We were in what could be said as ‘lake country’; the region from Tawang to Bumla has more than 100 lakes in total. It was magical to say the least, as lake after lake kept appearing on our drive.

The first lake that we came across went by the name ‘P T Tso’ and was a sizeable water-body with a small hut by the side of the lake. It wasn’t a clear day and hence we were unable to see the reflections of the surrounding mountains in the lake. After that we crossed a pass called Nagu La as the road kept climbing towards Y Junction. The condition of the road was bearable till the Y Junction; where we saw another lake called Nagula Tso.

The roads bifurcate at Y Junction : The road to the right leads to Bumla and the road going to the left leads to Madhuri Lake (Shungatser Lake or Shungatser Tso). Our plan was flexible and we were supposed to visit Bumla first. There was a timing issue due to visit of some officials that meant we would only be able to go to Bumla after 2 pm. After waiting for some time at Y Junction in the fog and cold, we started our 16 kilometre journey towards Madhuri Lake. (I couldn’t help but laugh whenever this name was mentioned; but there was a good reason for it!)

Shungatser Lake appeared different than usual lakes and indeed had a big reason for the strange appearance. It was formed after an earthquake in 1971 which had caused the damming of the river. After that, a flooding in the forest meant that the trees were submerged in the water. What happened after this phenomena is that the trees died and in the present situation the trunks of these dead trees are visible in the water lending Madhuri Lake a distinct feel. The water is placid and clear and on a clear day the reflections in the lake can be really photogenic.

A lot of credit has to be given to the army for creating the excellent infrastructure around Shungatser Lake. There is a lovely park at the entrance of Shungatser Lake with plenty of framed photo opportunities. Among other interesting activities, I personally liked the walk along the periphery of the Madhuri lake courtesy of the proper paved footpath on one side of the lake. There’s also a bridge to cross the different streams and I must say that the infrastructure has enabled this to become a nice picnic spot for the locals of Tawang and around.

The sunshine was abundant once we reached Shungatser Lake; it must have been at an altitude of approx. 4000m and in the fag end of October it was nice to see the clouds part and bring some much needed warmth! There was also a well-equipped canteen in the Park near the lake serving tasty snacks, maggi and tea / coffee for visitors for a nominal charge. Toilet facilities are also available for tourists in a nearby building. Chairs and tables are laid out in the park near the lake and one can take the foodstuffs from the canteen and have a tranquil time enjoying it in pristine surroundings.

What really surprised me was the presence of a gorgeous wooden chalet on the banks of the lake; it was named ‘Shungatser Hut’. Although the door was locked, that didn’t stop me from peeking inside and seeing a perfect home, with warm interiors and furniture. I want to go back and stay in that hut someday, although I have no idea how to book it! The chilly wind even in the stark sunshine caused us to scamper for cover as we kept exploring and walking around Shungatser Lake.

Why is the lake named Madhuri Lake?

Although the official name of the lake is Shungatser Tso (Tso is lake in Tibetan), it is locally popular as Madhuri lake. The entire region used to be a pasture land and was a grazing ground of Shok-tsen village before the earthquake of 1971. A song of the Bollywood film Koyla starring Madhuri Dixit was shot here and that has caused the (almost) renaming of the lake! So while the signboards will all denote Shungatser Lake, the locals and driver used Maduri Lake for the same! In this post, I will use both names Madhuri Lake and Shungatser Lake interchangeably.

After spending an hour or so at Madhuri Lake, it was time for us to head back to Y Junction and resume our journey to Bumla. On one of the signboards, I had spotted the name ‘Zemithang’. I had heard of Zemithang from intrepid travellers and jumped at the thought of us visiting this enchanting place. It wasn’t to be that day, as we were on a fixed plan and had no chance of diverting from Bumla! The signboard at a crossroads also had some other interesting names of a monastery and other passes but I am not sure if civilians are allowed to visit those in this region around Tawang.

We are back at Y Junction from Shungatser Lake. On the way back, we spot some frozen waterfalls too! So, no wonder we were freezing at the lake because end of October means it is actually quite cold! The terrible condition of the road means we take almost an hour to traverse the 16 kilometre distance. We reach Y Junction at 1 in the afternoon and quickly move towards Bumla as the Army waves us on.

The road to Bumla reminds me of Ladakh with the incredible scenery. What distinguishes Bumla from Ladakh is the presence of numerous lakes that keep appearing every 10 minutes or so. The clouds are back again and we have no choice but to close our windows due to the cold winds. We are tottering along the road at almost 4200m and reach a place called Klepta from where Bumla is only 8 Kms away. My stomach grumbles, I’m hungry again after having just had breakfast in the morning and nothing thereafter.

While maggi may be the choice for many who travel in the mountains, I am old fashioned when it comes to food and prefer proper meals rather than eating anything packaged. The hunger pangs would have to wait longer as we weren’t getting any food on the high altitude pass – Bumla! The driver advised us to not click any photographs after Klepta as the army has a strict watch and literally enforces the ‘no photography’ signboards. Our sumo was brought to a halt just before the buildings at Bumla appeared.

Importance of Bumla

In 1959, the Dalai Lama on his way from Tibet to India is believed to have escaped via Bumla (Also spelled Bum La – La is pass in Tibetan). In the India-China War of 1962, the Chinese Army invaded across the Bumla pass. Hence, it can be said that Bumla lies at a strategic location in Arunachal Pradesh. The pass itself is buried in snow for most of the year due to the high altitude location. There were efforts to re-open Bumla pass for trade in 2006. Apart from Chushul in Ladakh and Nathu La in Sikkim, Bum La is the only place where the Border Personnel Meetings are held.

We were supposed to walk the rest of the distance. The ice cold wind hit us as soon as we got out of the Sumo. It was insanely cold and the howling winds only exacerbated the chill! Some Army officers were there who asked us to walk towards the Reception Hut. There was warm water, tea and biscuits in the reception hut. I was pleased to drink the hot chai. After 5 odd minutes an Army officer came and asked us to walk in orderly fashion towards Bumla Pass. He also told us to not click any photographs, especially of the establishments on the Indian side.

Apart from us, there were 3-4 other tourists at Bumla. On the Indian side, the buildings were ‘Bumla Hut’ also called ‘Hall of Friendship’ where the meetings between the Chinese officials and the Indian officials were held. The Army officer walked with us till the border which had a ‘Thank You’ board and informed us that 6 meets between China and India are held at Bumla every year; out of which 4 are organised by India and 2 by China. When we reached the border, there was a ‘Heap of Stones’ that demarcated the border between India and China.

It was a strange feeling. There was no barbed wire or Military with Guns manning the Bumla border and at one point of time we felt it was funny to put our feet in Chinese territory and come back to the Indian side instantly. How stupid of us human beings to make partitions in the land we all should be privileged to inhabit. Won’t all of us be happier to call the entire world our Home?

The ‘heap of stones’ is a symbol of peace which began when the Army Officials of both countries started placing stones as a measure of trust when they started meeting many years ago. Now the heap of stones has grown higher but I wonder if the stones actually impart any trust on either the Indian or Chinese side! There was no one on the Chinese side – apparently their border installations are 3 kilometres away. In the far distance, we could notice an Observation Hut and paved roads in China.

Funnily enough, we are told that photographs of the Chinese side can be taken at Bumla but not of the Indian side! After few more gusts of the cold breeze and some laughs later, we walk back to the Reception Hut and I fill some hot water to drink later. I want to pee before the drive back; there’s a toilet but the water has already frozen and a terrible stench sort of ensures I stay away. There’s a souvenir shop too at Bumla; one of us enters the same. The fridge magnet is priced at 100 Rs, and the cap at 250 Rupees.

We decide to hop into the car and start our return journey. It is already around 3 and we are all famished. There’s still some energy left to click pictures of a lake en-route when the light makes it irresistible for us to enjoy the sight. The Y Junction appears in no time; we huddle inside the warm canteen and order tea and some pakoras; others prefer maggi and momos. There’s also a store inside the canteen that sells Army bags and accessories. I buy warm looking huge Army socks for 100 Rupees.

The lights of Tawang greet us as we roll into town at around 1630. Days end early in the North-east and this being the last week of October, the sunsets happen even earlier. As we enter the freezing hotel room, I wonder if Bumla was colder! Perhaps its the concrete construction of the hotel, or maybe the fact that the entire building never seems to receive sunlight.

Whatever it is; I can’t take my mind off the signboard that mentioned Zemithang!

Details for Travel between Tawang and Bumla

Distance between Tawang and Bumla is 37 Kms. The road is paved and metalled till Y Junction which is at a 22 km distance from Tawang. After Y Junction, the condition of the road is horrible and the drive can be said to be a real adventure! The distance from Y Junction to Bumla is 15 Kilometres and the road is open for only around 6 months in a year.

The altitude ranges from 4000m to 4600m from Y Junction to Bumla and there is snowfall usually from November to March. There is a permit required for travelling beyond Y Junction and onward to Bumla and it is advisable to only travel in SUV’s to Bumla because of the bad condition of the road.

Check other posts from Arunachal Pradesh & Northeast India :

A Mixed Experience – Mechuka in Arunachal Pradesh

Photo Story from Ziro Valley, Arunachal Pradesh

Must Have Experiences in India : Loktak Lake

Cherry Blossoms in Nagaland, India

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It was early in the morning and since the days in the northeast begin at 4-430, I was in the shared Winger taxi by 7 am. The locals had indicated that the place where the shared taxis left from Imphal for Moirang was quite close to the hostel where I was staying. It was an incredibly efficient system and a vehicle left every 15 minutes or so in the morning. There were buses for Moirang too; but I trust the local recommendations and they had told me that the Winger was an easier and recommended choice. I had also been told that if I really wanted to explore Loktak Lake, it was better that I stay at Thanga village.

Manoeuvring through the network of phumdis on the Loktak Lake boat ride.

Coming back to the Winger – It was a unique vehicle that functioned like a small minibus with a seating capacity of 15-18 people.

We crossed Bishnupur before reaching Moirang; the 50 km distance from Imphal to Moirang cost 60 Rupees per seat and hardly took an hour and a half. Once in Moirang, I finally had breakfast before walking towards INA Museum. After a detailed perusal of the same and much astonishment later, I concluded that it was indeed better that I went to Thanga Village. The hotels in Moirang were quoting high prices and anyway Moirang didn’t feel like a town that would entice me with its charms.

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There were two roads that bifurcated in Moirang : One went right to the Keibul Lamjao National Park and the other continued straight to Sendra Island and the villages on Loktak Lake like Thanga (where I was headed). There wasn’t much information available on the internet about homestays around Loktak Lake and that only added to my confusion. Locals kept advising me that Sendra Resort was the best place to stay if I wanted to experience Loktak Lake. I wanted to stay at a homestay instead; and experience the local way of life.

In my usual style of travel, I kept asking here and there and figured that shared autos run from Moirang to Thanga village and a few people also vaguely confirmed that there was indeed one homestay in Thanga village. I found one auto that was brimming with people and was charging 20 Rupees for the 10 km distance to Thanga! Some language confusion meant that there was no space in the auto for me. I had to wait until there were enough passengers for the next shared auto.

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In the meanwhile, the Israelis I had met at the hostel in Imphal had also reached Moirang. They had come from Imphal in a bus and we were all very happy to be reunited. The prospect of staying at a homestay sounded very promising, especially now that a few people had confirmed that there was indeed a functioning homestay in Thanga Village. There was no space in the next auto by the time they reached; the roof was the only space left!

The auto dropped us just outside the homestay in Thanga village; there was a steep descent on a slippery cemented path after that. One of the Israelis had a minor fall but we all made it to the homestay. It was a home owned by a local family and was located on the banks of Loktak Lake. The lady of the house informed us that they only had 3 rooms on offer. We sat in the open seating space while the lady confirmed the rates with Mr. Maipakchao (the owner and husband).

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We finalised a reasonable rate and quickly put our bags inside. Days in the Northeast end early and we wanted to spend as much time as possible on Loktak Lake. We were very hungry and also Mr. Maipakchao had not yet come home; so it was decided to have a quick lunch and only then go out. Once Mr. Maipakchao was back home, he had a discussion with all of us. He decided to show us around the lake. The Israelis put me in charge of the boating discussion and we finalised a rate of 200 per person.

We were given cool looking bamboo hats as we walked out on the road. The weather was pleasant but the afternoon felt a little humid. We joked among ourselves at our touristy behaviour and whether we looked like jokers! The Israelis were young and fresh out of their military stint and I was very glad to know that even though it was their first trip to India they were exploring Manipur rather than the usual Himachali villages. It was around 2-230 in the afternoon and Mr. Maipakchao had told us that we needed to end the boating before 4 pm so as to reach a hillock in time for sunset.

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To read about my candid feelings during the boat ride, check Life on Loktak Lake, Manipur : A Photo Story.

The sun had already started its downward journey as we rushed after the boat ride. Mr. Maipakchao led the way and we followed him hurriedly, wanting to see as much as we possibly could! It was a steep and uphill climb, I was perspiring like crazy. After much huffing and puffing, when I finally made it the sun was still strong. A strong breeze blew on top of the hillock making all if us feel quite relieved. The floating phumdis of Loktak Lake were visible in their glory and in all directions.

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We could see round phumdis and wondered how on earth was it possible that these natural land masses were perfectly round!! At times, it felt like a motion movie with the scarcely believable postcard perfect scenes. The sun created surreal orange hues as it went behind the mountains. Tiny boats were seen heading back to the floating huts. I rubbed my eyes more than once to confirm that this wasn’t really a dream.

The Keibul Lamjao National Park was visible in the far distance. One of the Israelis was carrying a portable stove and made excellent coffee. We all took some time to savour the moment and sat on the ground enjoying the coffee with the gently changing sky colours. Just as it was about to get dark, we started on our way back to the homestay and Mr. Maipakchao asked us if we had any specific preferences for dinner? We told him anything homemade would do.

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The weather had become cold and I was glad the blanket in my room was cosy. At the homestay, the lady of the house gave us tea with a distinct flavour and we all thanked her. At dinner time, the Israelis sang Hanukkah songs and lit up candles and performed a small ceremony. The food was freshly cooked and was very tasty. We ate like hungry beasts! It felt quite wonderful to experience a properly run homestay in the far away ends of Manipur.

During the after dinner walk, when it was pitch dark streaks of lightening flashed across the sky. I wasn’t quite sure if I had seen that for real or it was something else.

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Check some other memorable posts from the North east :

Cherry Blossoms in Nagaland, India

Stunning Beauty of Umngot River in Dawki & Shnongpdeng

Chasing Tranquility in Majuli island

Two Days in A Paradise called Nongriat

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Turns out that I was witness to the Geminid Meteor Shower on that cloudless night on Loktak Lake.

Dreams do come true.

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Photo Story of Life on Loktak Lake

Since I have many photographs of this lovely time, a post detailing the experience of Loktak Lake and also the homestay in Thanga will come in the next post.

Check other photo stories :

Photo Story : Snapshots from Tawang Festival

India’s French Colony : Pondicherry, A Photo Story

Life in Malana, In Photos

Srinagar – Leh Highway, in Pictures

Kashmir Great Lakes Trek, in Pictures

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Distance between Bhimtal, Sattal & Naukuchiatal

Bhimtal is located at a distance of 22 kms away from Nainital. The distance between Naukuchiatal and Bhimtal is only 4 kms. Sattal is at a walkable distance of approx. 3 kms from Bhimtal. After enjoying the fruits of Kumaon in Ramgarh, I was still recovering from the overdose of apricots!

Fields in Sattal; locals pose outside a wedding ceremony!!

I was first trying to find a cheap homestay that would enable me to stay and work; and also let me walk around these lakes at my own pace. After all Bhimtal, Sattal & Naukuchiatal lakes are not places with a list of attractions. I was just hoping to find solitude walking on the serene and enchanting trails in the midst of nature. The weather was quite hot in June as compared to the other higher altitude hill stations of Kumaon.

And finding a cheap homestay wasn’t proving to be any easier; I’d somehow reached Sattal but unlike Himachal Pradesh’s well oiled tourism infrastructure of homestays primed for backpackers; Uttarakhand (Kumaon) had no cheap options for homestays unless I could get lucky and find one! I searched and searched throughout the course of the day; and finally found a homestay near Bhimtal for Rs. 400!

On hitched ride with tourists to Sattal; it seemed that most tourists visited one or two of these lakes for a boat ride. My experience in the region suggested that the real pleasure of Bhimtal, Sattal & Naukuchiatal lies in spending a day or two in a cosy colonial homestay located close to the lake.

Check : Attending a Kumaoni Wedding in Kumaon

There are many lakes in Nainital district, and Bhimtal, Sattal and Naukuchiatal are the most popular ones with tourists and are easily accessible. It is possible to explore all three lakes in one day; and due to the proximity from Delhi there are many tourists who do weekend trips in this region.

Bhimtal is the most easily accessible of the three lakes and does not lie on the main highway. For this reason, it is difficult to reach Bhimtal, Sattal and Naukuchiatal by buses. It may be possible to reach the lakes by shared taxis from Bhowali. Bhowali is a sort of junction point with bus and shared taxi connections to other parts of Kumaon.

Bhimtal Lake (Tal means lake)

Bhimtal Lake is a glorious sight and is surrounded by green hills that makes the location even more beautiful. Bhimtal is at a distance of around 22 kms from Nainital and lies at a pleasant altitude of 1350m. On my time spent wandering around Bhimtal, I noticed that boating in Bhimtal is one of the biggest attractions of a trip to Kumaon.

I’d walked all the way from Sattal to Bhimtal with my bags; having found no place to stay at Sattal. I came for a stroll to the lakeside in the evening; in the centre of Bhimtal is a small island with an overgrowing of trees. There were lots of tourists and kids enjoying the boat rides and picnic sort of atmosphere; ducks floated in the lake making it look quite dreamy!

The island houses an aquarium, which has a collection of different species of fishes and can be accessed by a boat ride. I was tired by my exploits of the day and was content to just sit and not attempt doing anything extravagant. Adjacent to the aquarium is the 17th century Bhimkeshwar Mahadev Temple; decided to Lord Bhima. Also, the name Bhimtal is based on this temple itself.

Check : Lessons of Life at Pangong in Winter

I ate food at one of the restaurants around the lake and it wasn’t anything to write about. The moon shined brightly as I head back to my homestay and the sweet lull of the breeze put me to sleep. I woke up early next morning and asked the homestay owner if he could suggest me some walks around Bhimtal. And off I went :

After a nice stroll in the jungle, I reached the Butterfly Research Centre and stood there for some time trying to find where to enter it from. A pack of dogs started barking and sensing that I could get into trouble I just started walking away from that place. I went hurriedly on the winding road around Bhimtal and was pleased to notice some colourful birds sitting on the Jacaranda trees that were in full bloom in the month of June.

According to popular local folklore, Bhimtal lake was originally called Bhimsarovar. During the Pandavas (12 year exile) they could not find a water body to quench their thirst. The legend states that Lord Bhima then hit the ground with his mace from which an underground source of water came out and formed a lake.

There were some upcoming beautiful looking cafés in the vicinity of Bhimtal, but I did not go to any of them. I spotted a gorgeous homestay in one corner of the lake but it was still under construction and the owner invited me to come whenever I liked after it was done! (I haven’t gone back to Bhimtal in 3 years!)

Sattal Lake

Sattal (also spelt Sat Tal) literally translates to 7 lakes and gets its name from the seven lakes that it comprises of. I had absolutely no idea about the seven lakes of Sattal until I heard it from a local! As you might guess, I quickly expressed my desire to see all the seven lakes!! Names of the seven lakes are said to be : Nal-Damyanti Tal, Hanuman Tal, Garud Tal, Sita Tal, Ram Tal, Laxman Tal and Purna Tal.

I have no recollection of which of the lakes I saw; but I did walk along the whole periphery and had reached a lake with many boats and tourists. The colourful boats at Sattal make for a lovely way to experience the serene waters of the lake. I’d a chance to walk around Sattal twice; once because of a hitched ride got me here and once when I walked with my bags to find a homestay! Vehicles have to cross an entry barrier and pay entry fees.

Read : A forgotten valley – Trekking to Milam Glacier

There are many eateries around Sattal lake and I remember having lunch at one of them. It was a place run by an old couple and they had made excellent bun omelette. The reflections in the lake look prettier with the sunset colours during evening. There are accessible hiking trails around Sattal, with a good mix of oak and pine forests for company.

After checking out from the homestay near Bhimtal; I was lucky to find a cosy room at a newly built hotel in Sattal and ended up staying there for a few days. On one of the walks in Sattal; I came across the pretty St. John’s Church in Sattal.

Attractions in Sattal

The St. John’s Church of 1912 is a part of the Sattal Christian Methodist Ashram that was established by Stanley Jones. Stanley Jones was a preacher and a missionary. The Church is a stone structure surrounded by trees but was closed when I visited it twice. It is always fascinating to see the interiors of old churches from the British era and marvel at the architecture but sigh, it was not to be this time.

A signboard on the St. John’s Church indicates that St. John’s Church was built by A.C. Evans in 1912 in memory of his beloved mother.

Butterfly Museum, run by Peter Smetacek who is a butterfly enthusiast, and the museum has a fantastic collection from across the world. It is a unique museum with some rare species of butterflies. I was very keen on seeing the butterfly museum in Bhimtal for its offbeat feel and also to get acquainted with the world of colourful butterflies. It was nice to find some other homestays located close to the butterfly museum in Sattal; they were trying to give out rooms for long term stayers at approx. 5000 Rupees per month!

Naukuchiatal Lake

Naukuchiatal literally translates to ‘lake of nine corners’. This lake is well known for the lotus pond that has a variety of lotuses blooming in the right season. The lotus pond is also called ‘kamaltaal’. I remember seeing a huge Hanuman statue in a temple complex that passes by just before reaching Naukuchiatal.

The lake is surrounded by tall mountains and has a fantastic setting with a plethora of colourful boats. I’d crossed the amazingly located KMVN Rest House at Naukuchiatal but they had no dormitory and hence I kept walking ahead. A local belief about Naukuchiatal lake states that if you view all the nine corners of the lake from one viewpoint you will attain salvation.

Tourists can experience activities like boating, kayaking, zip lining, paragliding and angling at Naukuchiatal Lake.

How to Reach Bhimtal, Sattal, Naukuchiatal Lakes

From Delhi, all the lakes – Bhimtal – Sattal – Naukuchiatal are at a distance of around 320 kms. The closest railway station from Bhimtal is Kathgodam at a distance of 26 kms. Kathgodam has regular train services from Delhi.

A small plea for Responsible Tourism 

Rampant deforestation has meant the lakes Bhimtal, Sattal and Naukuchiatal are under severe environmental threat. The bird population is dwindling due to being deprived of their natural habitat. Also, try and shop local products from Kumaon so that the locals benefit from the tourism boom.

Also read : Sustainable Rural Tourism in Garhwal, Uttarakhand

Have you been to the lakes of Kumaon? What was your experience?

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Thus began my day trip to Tranquebar! I was staying in a cute little hut in Auroville and after the bright French façades of Pondicherry, it was time to explore the little known Danish history with India. I had heard of Tranquebar long long ago and remember visualising it as a fairytale place with a fancy bar! (Ha ha, so much for imagination.)

I’d driven my rented scooter from Auroville to the bus stand in Pondicherry and parked it there for a measly 8 Rupees for the entire day! The next step was finding a bus that would go to Tharangambadi or even Tanjore (Thanjavur) via the East Coast Road. My joy knew no bounds when the first bus conductor I asked replied yes for Tharangambadi. Since there was time for the bus to leave, the driver and conductor said I can have breakfast. 20 Rupees brought me idli, vada and sambhar, chutney on a banana leaf and my heart sang with delight!

I was quickly brought down to earth with a thud when I couldn’t find the bus. Even after asking at the enquiry, there was no proper answer. Dismayed at the loss of a handkerchief, I sought about finding another bus and sat in one bound for Karaikal. In hindsight, I was happy to not have listened to the driver-conductor duo who wanted me to leave my bag in the bus to reserve a seat. There were very few passengers in the bus and we roared along the ECR highway (East Coast Road). The ECR is a pretty road and is never too far from the coast, ensuring fresh air from the sea and scintillating views.

When I was finally at the turn off to Tharangambadi, it was around noon and the harsh sun made me feel as if I would faint. A huge banner with a torn signboard signalled that all the attractions of the Danish colony were close to each other. I  asked some locals and started walking towards the Dansborg Fort.

Even the 100m amble in the sun had drained me of all energy and I asked an auto guy if he would be interested in showing me all the sights of Tranquebar. He was an amazing fellow and asked for only 100 Rupees, even though I had told him that I would like to take it slow and spend time at places. In fact, he even suggested that Tranquebar is so tiny, that the best method of seeing all the Danish attractions and historical sights is on foot.

Introduction to Tranquebar – Trankebar – Tharangambadi

Apparently, the name Tharangambadi itself means ‘the land of singing waves’, which is very apt for the village because of the constant sound of the sea that provides background music throughout the streets of Tranquebar. As per popular legend, Tranquebar was a name coined by the Scandinavians because they had huge difficulty in pronouncing Tharangambadi. This quaint seaside town on the Coromandel post was once the trading post of the Danish East India Company.

A large part of Tranquebar village was damaged due to the tsunami in 2004. With the help of Tamil Nadu State Archeological Department and the Royal Danish family, the Danish Tranquebar Association has managed to restore some parts of Tranquebar.

But the sun doesn’t generally agree with me and Wroom… went the auto and took a left turn.

I was instantly enamoured by the aquamarine waters juxtaposed against picture perfect beaches, quaint streets lined with colourfully-painted old homes and the feeling of time having stood still for centuries. And while it is normal to have this sort of feeling in so many places; the fact that this was an erstwhile Danish colony for more than 220 years only accentuated the pleasure. 

Here I list down the places and attractions to visit in tiny Tranquebar; so that this post also doubles up as a Travel Guide for interested folks who want to visit this former Danish colony.  

Gateway to Tranquebar

In front of us was a huge gateway in white; it was also called the gateway to Tranquebar. The year ‘Anno 1792’ has been inscribed on the top of the gateway and it is the start of the King’s Street. In Danish documents, it is described that the main entry into Trankebar is through the Landporten (Town Gate). It is also described that the original Town Gate was destroyed in 1791 and that the present gate was built after that.

Dansborg Fort

Dansborg Fort is the Danish highlight in Tharangambadi. It was built in 1620 (Borg means Fort in Danish) and overlooks the Bay of Bengal. The building is constructed with columned structures and high ceilings, and the fort is unlike other forts in India. Maybe it is a Scandinavian design (I’m not sure though). The rooms on the lower floor are named as per their use and I spotted a wine room as well!

At one point of time, this imposing fort is said to have been the second largest Danish castle in the world. The 10 Danish trading ships that came to India to trade in spices, silk, gold and other items landed at Dansborg Fort; and trade continued in exchange of Indian pepper and cardamom.

The Dansborg Fort was constructed over 2 floors and most of the enclosures and gates are now locked. The lower floor used to function as a storage space and also functioned as the residence for soldiers as well. The upper floor was once the Governor’s house and also had a church inside the fort. It has now been converted into a museum, exhibiting Danish culture from that time. There is also a cannon pointing towards the sea on the front side of the Dansborg Fort.

A placard in the fort premises states that the the Dansborg Fort was protected as a monument by the Tamil Nadu State Department of Archaeology from 1977. It also states that ‘A thematic Danish Site Museum was established in the year 1979 at this fort, to bring out the political, social, trade and cultural contacts between India and Denmark.

Museum at Dansborg Fort

The museum at Dansborg Fort contains all the information one might want about Danish rule. Among other treasures, the museum contains interesting documents such as a copy of the treaty between the Nayak King and Denmark East India Company, carefully preserved copy of the sale deed between the Danes and the British (from 1845), old maps of Trankebar town and a collection of miniature Danish ships that first docked at Tranquebar.

There are also old Hindu sculptures from the surrounding region, and also local artefacts, coins and pottery. Also on display, are replicas of Danish ships that docked in Tranquebar and also artefacts used by the Danes during their time in this region.

Sri Masilamani Nathar Temple 

Also called Manivaneswaram, the original temple was built by Maravarman Kulashekhara Pandian in 1306 AD. It is a Shiva Temple that is now located on the beach itself. During the Tsunami of 2004, the temple’s Vimana (tower) broke off and fell into the sea. Although there was no one around who who could confirm the same, the current temple looks like a recently built structure. Apparently, after the tsunami the temple has come closer to the sea. There is also an inscription on a wall (exhibited at Dansborg Museum) that denotes the origins of the Masilamani Nathar Temple from the early 14th Century.

Zion Church

The Zion Church was consecrated in 1701 and is the last building on King’s Street. It lies inside a lovely compound with greenery and seems to have been well maintained with constant renovations. Inside the church, polished brass plaques on the wall signify that the first five Indian protestant converts of the Danish mission were baptized in Zion church in the year 1707.

New Jerusalem Church

The Jerusalem Church was built in 1707 and the New Jerusalem Church was built in 1718 on King Street to accommodate more people. It is the oldest and first protestant Lutheran church of India and is definitely the prettiest of all the churches in Tranquebar. The New Jerusalem Church was built in a mix of architectural style by missionaries Bartolomäus Ziegenbalg and Heinrich Plütschau in 1718.

Tranquebar’s most famous personality, Ziegenbalg died in New Jerusalem Church in 1719 and was buried here as well. His tombstone is also in the same place. There are a lot of burials within the church premises, and some have epitaphs in Danish language as well.

Danish Governor’s Bungalow or Governor’s Bungalow

On the opposite side of Dansborg Fort, parallel to ‘Bungalow on the Beach’ is the Governer’s Bungalow that was constructed sometime around 1780. It was also alternatively known earlier as the Collector’s House and functioned as a private residence of the Danish Governor and was brought by the Danes in 1784. It is a very pretty European sight; of a yellow building with lovely windows and doors and huge pillars.

The Governor’s House seems to have been restored but is not being actively used and was locked when I visited. I was told that the keys of Governor’s House are kept in Dansborg Fort and that the doors can be opened after making a request to the manager at the museum. Later during the afternoon, I saw a few goats sprawling in the verandah of the Governor’s Bungalow while some locals were enjoying their lunch and siesta!

Old Danish Cemetery

Just behind the New Jerusalem Church, lies the large Old Danish Cemetery that is most in ruins. It has been in use since the early 18th Century. Names of many prominent Danish colonial officials who served in the Danish East India Company and traders can be found carved into the headstones. The Old Danish Cemetery has some epitaphs that date back to 1708.

Ziegenbalg Museum Complex 

This place on Admiral Street was a chance find. After having seen the Printing Press building from outside, we were going back to the bus stop when the auto guy stopped and said if I want to go inside to see the Press. Once inside, on the right side is a building currently being run as a school, the middle one seemed like a church and the left building is a pretty house in white with huge pillars. There was an INTACH Signboard there but the building was closed. Adjacent to the school, in the open playground there was a state of Ziegenbalg with the customary flowing hair!

The Ziegenbalg Complex was brought in the 18th century to accommodate the growing Lutheran mission. The white building is said to be Ziegenbalg’s Residence, which is an old building that has been recently refurbished.

 

Ziegenbalg Press

We came across a small building with the words ‘Ziegenbalg Press’ inscribed on the outside. It is said to be the first printing press in India and was originally housed in Mission House on King’s Street.

The building was closed and didn’t look in great condition. It is widely believed that Zieganbalg used this press to print the Bible in Tamil in 1708, after he had learnt the Tamil language. When I went inside the Ziegenbalg Residence complex, the auto guy noticed that one of the doors where the Press was housed was missing.

Ziegenbalg Spiritual Centre

Close to Zion Church, is Ziegenbalg’s house; Tranquebar’s most famous personality. It has now been taken over by the Church authorities and is now called the Ziegenbalg Spiritual Centre. I was astounded by the incredibly pretty door of the house and asked the auto guy to stop here. Someone informed me that the writing table, pen etc used by Ziegenbalg are preserved in this place.

Ziegenbalg’s contribution to the Danish history in Tranquebar has been immense. He even learnt the local language Tamil and translated the Bible in Tamil. Entry to the spiritual centre is possible by requesting someone at the church.

Tranquebar Maritime Museum / Danish-Indian Cultural Centre

This was earlier known as the Danish Commander’s House and has now been converted into the Tranquebar Maritime Museum as a part of the restoration project undertaken by The Danish Tranquebar Association. It is under the aegis of Danish Indian Cultural Centre and the first part of the same was inaugurated in January 2017. There is also an impressive collection of books on sale inside the Maritime Museum and Queen’s Library has a few tables where one can sit and read.

The exhibits inside the maritime museum delve into the life of the local fisherfolk. There is an old ship also on display and a small collection of objects from the Danish ships. Tales of tsunami and a few personal stories of affected people are also shared in the same exhibit.

Bungalow on the Beach

With the dreamy location of the 17th Century Dansborg Fort on one side and the endearing blue of the Bay of Bengal on the other, this heritage structure is maybe my most prominent memory of Tranquebar. I could only imagine how gorgeous it must be on a crazy monsoon evening, when it pours down, and there is a joy in solitude; or perhaps a moment of crazy love in the balcony with a lady interest on a moonlit night.

In its heyday, it functioned as the summer residence of the British collector. Subsequently, the ‘Bungalow on the Beach’ fell into active disrepair, until it was brought for a sum in 2002. After extensive restorations that went on till 2004, it was converted into a Heritage non-hotel by Neemrana Group. An interesting feature of the property is that the rooms are named after the Danish Ships that landed in Tranquebar.

Walk on Tranquebar Beach

Just across Dansborg Fort, the promenade leading to the beach can give a complex to the one in Bandra and Marine Drive in Bombay! It is lined with pretty lights and leads to an endless expanse of blue. Strolling on the Tranquebar beach with endless views of the Sea has to be one of the must-do things when you visit this ‘land of singing waves!’

Among other important historical sights in Tranquebar is a mosque which reportedly has its origins in 1350. There are various old Danish buildings such as Muhldorff’s House, Van Theylingen’s House which is locally called Pillar House has been renovated by INTACH. Rehling’s House is one of the most beautiful buildings in Tranquebar and dates back to the early 18th Century. It was used as the St.Theresa’s Teachers’ Training institute and has now been renovated.

‘Halkier’s House’ is another 18th Century structure. The entire King’s Street, which connects the gateway of Tranquebar and the beach, is full of monuments and sites that showcase Scandinavian influences. Also, if you take a walk across Tranquebar; the town still retains its classical streetscape and old names : King’s Street, Queen’s Street, Admiral Street, Goldsmith Street, Mosque Street, etc. The administration has done a good job with the sign boards and life in Tranquebar surely does feel like walking back in the past.
History of Tranquebar 

In the early 17th Century; Denmark set up an East India Company to enable them to trade with the sub-continent. They sent a fleet of ships to Ceylon (Sri Lanka) and India, which first landed in Tanjore. The Danes requested the ‘King of Tanjore’ to let them establish a settlement on the coast in return for an annual tribute.

Raghunatha Nayak, ruler of Thanjavur Kingdom, entered into a trade agreement with the Danes, giving them possession of Tharangambadi for an annual rent of 3,111 Rupees and allowed them to export pepper to Denmark. After around 220 years of running Trankebar, the Danes sold it to the British in 1845 for 1.25 million rupees. Tharangambadi was renamed by the Danes as Trankebar and the English anglicised the name as Tranquebar.

Danish History in India 

After having been to Tharangambadi, I got inquisitive if there were other Danish colonies in India. Turns out they were; and namely are Nicobar Islands, Serampore in Bengal (famous for the St. Olav’s Church), Balasore in Odisha, Calicut in Kerala… Also the Danes established a number of factories throughout India.

How to reach Tranquebar?

Tranquebar is located at a distance of 280 kms from Chennai and 120 kms from Pondicherry. There are regular buses that run via ECR (East Coast Road) to Karaikal. Tharangambadi is the local Tamil name that is more widely used and it is quite possible that the locals haven’t even heard of Tranquebar. It is a very small town on the coast with limited population and fishing is the main occupation of the locals here.

Distance from Karaikal to Tharangambadi is around 10 kms. Distance from Thanjavur to Tranquebar is 100 kms, and from Chidambaram – Tranquebar is 50 kms away. Trichy (Tiruchirapalli) is approx. 150 kms away from Tharangambadi.

Hotels in Tranquebar 

As per my conversations with the locals, there are no budget hotels in Tranquebar. If one wants to stay overnight there are two-three heritage properties owned by Neemrana Group and Bungalow on the Beach is the most popular one. The other two are Gate House and Nayak House, although I’m not really sure if they are currently functional or not.

Most tourists in Tranquebar are day visitors and do not stay for the night. Although, after having done the same; I seriously think staying in Tranquebar can be tranquil and magical. There may be possibilities of finding a cheap homestay or guest house after speaking to the locals. Karaikal may be an easier place to stay because it has a variety of hotels at a range of prices.

You may be interested in checking these as well :

Mahabalipuram – Of Historical Sights and Beach Delights

Khardung La in Winter : Part 2

Hello from the Coolest Chai Café in India

Shangarh in Sainj Valley – Of Temples and Meadows

The Goodness of Strangers : Curfew in Kashmir

2016 : A Year of Consolidation, Fulfilment and Paving the Way for a Lifetime of Travel

I stood on the highway and a bus came in no time. My efforts of having a proper lunch in Tranquebar had failed as there was no restaurant serving the same. I was still hungry having just had the meagre breakfast and was super happy when the bus stopped at a dhaba at around 4 pm. I was in a tearing hurry to get some food but luck seemed to have other plans. The old man and woman at the dhaba didn’t understand hindi or english and of course I had no knowledge of Tamil.

Sign language worked and in no time food was being served on a banana leaf. The tongue-twister names produced some super tasty accompaniments to the rice and sambar and I ate like a beast. I gulped down numerous glasses of spiced buttermilk. It remains my favourite meal on that particular trip. The old lady fed me like her own child and the man took just 65 Rupees from me. It felt like I had come home. The poorest people have the richest hearts. 

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