I figured that more than comfort time is of the essence for me to reach Pondicherry and therefore just kept walking and didn’t respond to the taxi guys. In the process, I stumbled upon the easiest process of reaching Pondicherry from Chennai airport. Exit the airport, take a right – After walking approx. 500m take a left on the road, there will be a local railway station. Take a 10 rupee ticket to Perangulathur station that is 3-4 stops away from the boarding station. After exiting from the Perungalathur train station, once you get out cross the road – there should be a bus station visible. From here local (Tamil Nadu State Transport Corporation) SETC buses run regularly to Pondicherry via the ECR road and also the other route. I remember the bus ticket cost me only 85 Rupees.

Tip : In the local train, eat the local samsa (Samosa) Tamil Nadu style! The restaurant adjoining the bus station near Perangulathur serves tasty thali meals and I highly recommend it for people looking to move onward to Pondicherry.

I was supposed to travel with a partner but she dropped out at the last moment and that meant I had a heritage hotel booking all to myself. After reaching Pondicherry, I bargained with an auto and paid 40 Rupees to reach the hotel located in the White Town or the French Quarter.

I was pleasantly surprised at my first glimpse of Pondicherry and went walking just before sunset. There were many cafés serving fresh croissants and espresso coffee in this former French colony also called Puducherry or Pondi. Everyone seemed to be living a laid-back life making me feel that Pondicherry is the type of charming seaside town where one arrives for a weekend visit and ends up wishing they could stay for longer! Since most people have jobs and can rarely afford longer vacations apart from weekends and extended weekends, I thought about putting this brief guide of tourist attractions; with personal stories and anecdotes.

Read : Danish Delight in India – Tranquebar (Tharangambadi)

A Handy Guide of Places to Visit in Pondicherry  

The Portuguese arrived in Pondicherry in 1521, presumably with the purpose of trading in spices on the Coromandel Coast. After that the Dutch and Danish traders followed, but it was the French who purchased Pondicherry in the late 17th century. They ruled it for more than 200 years until Pondicherry was assimilated into India in 1954 as a Union Territory. The French were enamoured with the seaside feel of Pondicherry and constructed many buildings across this small town still retains its French élan. Pondicherry was established in 1674 by François Martin, who was the first director of the French East India company. Other French colonies in India include Mahe in Kerala, Yanam in Andhra Pradesh and Karaikal in Tamil Nadu.

Sri Aurobindo Ashram

Sri Aurobindo Ashram was established in 1926 by the Bengali philosopher Aurobindo Ghosh. He was also a freedom fighter in Bengal and was given shelter here after it became unwise to live close to the British in Calcutta. The ashram is a tranquil place lined with pretty plants and gorgeous doors, but photography is not allowed. Visitors are asked to maintain silence while taking the ashram tour as there are many devotees spending time in mediation.

Sri Aurobindo Ashram attracts thousands of devotees from India and around the world. It is located on Rue de la Marine very close to the French Quarter area and is a short walk away from the Manakula Vinayagar Temple. The Sri Aurobindo Ashram serves as the headquarters of the Sri Aurobindo Society. The samadhi of Sri Aurobindo and ‘The Mother’ is located here and it can be seen where devotees pay their respects with their hands folded in deep prayers. Inside the main building, there’s a very pretty Western-style room with accessories (presumably where Sri Aurobindo Ghosh lived). The adjacent bookshop in the ashram sells a range of books, while the building opposite to the ashram hosts frequent cultural programmes during the tourist season.

Check : St. Francis Church, Kochi & India’s Colonial History

Sri Manakula Vinayagar Temple

Sri Manakula Vinayagar Temple is one of Pondicherry’s most popular tourist attraction. The temple is located at a walking distance away from Sri Aurobindo Ashram. The temple is dedicated to Ganesha, the elephant-headed Hindu god. The exterior of the temple is huge and stunning with statues of various gods and goddesses lining the walls. Once you enter inside, the grandeur of the splendid friezes on the walls is immaculate with chiseled carvings. The Manakula Vinayagar temple has been in existence before the French occupation of Pondicherry; thereby making it one of the oldest buildings in Pondicherry.

The temple elephant, Lakshmi is the star attraction of the Manakula Vinayagar Temple. Eager devotees can get a tap on the top of the head with Lakshmi’s trunk; in exchange of a coin, dexterously picked up from the palm of the devotee, and immediately handed over to the mahout. It’s a fascinating ritual to observe and the best time for experiencing this is during the afternoon hours when there are lesser crowds at the temple. The fact that she’s outdoors makes it easy to click photographs.

Pondicherry Musuem

The Pondicherry Museum has a great collection of local historic memorabilia and collectibles, and is housed in a 17th-century colonial mansion that was once occupied by a French administrator. Among other things, the museum features a collection of stone sculptures, a bronze gallery, different carriages. There are also artefacts from nearby excavations around Arikamedu (an erstwhile seaport) that show that Romans traded in this region as early as the 1st century BC.

Read : Mahabalipuram – Of Historical Sights and Beach Delights

The Pondicherry Government Museum is located on Ranga Pillai Street, opposite Government Place. The archeological collection includes Neolithic remains from Arikamedu, a few stone sculptures from 6th to 8th century and Buddhist stone sculptures from 10th Century, and paintings. Also on display is some French furniture and artefacts from local houses that must have been used during the French occupation.

I had no idea about Pondicherry Museum and was lucky to stumble upon it on a turn on the rented scooty, and the timing was just right too as it was already evening and the museum would have shut down in some time.

French Quarter or White Town Heritage Walk

Many Indian tourists come to Pondicherry mostly to explore the ‘French’ architecture. The charming French Quarter, the area around the beachfront has wide boulevards, road names starting with rue, bilingual signs, colourful doors and windows on prettily-designed buildings, and gorgeous colonial villas. In the White Town area, even the policemen continue to wear the military style caps, known as kepis from De Gaulle’s time.

Once you cross the canal and enter the east side towards White Town close to the sea, the streets look cleaner and emptier with a European hangover. The broad boulevards of the tranquil French Quarter are best explored on a walk. I’ve written a separate post on the same. India’s French Colony : Pondicherry, A Photo Story

It is possible to undertake Heritage Walks of French Quarter and Tamil Quarter with INTACH. Although I didn’t personally do the walk with them, I’ve been recommended this by well travelled people.

Joseph François Dupleix became governor of Pondicherry in the mid 18th Century. It is said that he was keen on establishing French supremacy in this area and was a brilliant planner. The entire White Town area (Or French Quarter) has been planned by him with the street grid encircled by a boulevard and divided by a canal. His memorial statue is on Goubert Avenue just opposite of the GMT ice-cream parlour on the promenade in Pondicherry.

Raj Niwas, Official residence of François Dupleix : Along the same road, which runs along the northern end of a square known as Government Place, is the gleaming white Raj Niwas, which was the late-18th-century mansion occupied by Pondicherry’s governor, François Dupleix. It is a blend of French and Indian architecture and is now inhabited by the present lieutenant governor of Pondicherry.

Botanical Gardens

The Botanical Gardens are located close to the Railway Station and were established by the French in 1826. Entrance is free, and it is indeed a lovely place to come for a quiet walk and aimless wandering if the tourists at other structures have been too much noise for you! In the Botanical Gardens, the French planted 900 species of trees to experiment and see how they would do in Indian conditions.

Churches of Pondicherry

Church of our Lady of the Angels

Also called Eglise De Notre Dame Des Anges, this church was built in the later half of the 19th Century. It was by sheer luck that I ended up at this sublime church while trying to search for Sri Aurobindo Ashram. Church of our Lady of the Angels is painted in mellow pink and cream colour and is located on Dumas Streeet. Among other interesting details about this church, the limestone interior was made using eggshells in the plaster.

I was surprised to see a Statue of Joan of Arc in the Church premises. This Church is also known as the Domas Church and it boasts of a rare oil painting of Our Lady of the Assumption, which was gifted by the French Emperor Napoleon III. It is also the only Church at present in India that has a Sunday Mass in all three languages; French, English and Tamil.

Basilica of the Sacred Heart of Jesus

The Sacred Heart of Jesus Church is also known as Eglise de Sacre Coeur de Jesus. It is located close to the Railway Station and is constructed in the neo-Gothic style. It is a pretty building in distinct cream and dark brown colour and is a Catholic church.

Church of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception

Located on mission street, The Church of our Lady of Immaculate Conception was built in the late 18th Century. It is built in yellow and white colour and is pretty to look from the exterior.

Quiet Beach & Serenity Beach

Serenity beach is located at a 8 km distance from Pondicherry and can be reached via auto or by taking a rented scooter or motorcycle. There are a few beach resorts located near Serenity Beach but I personally thought it was filled with rubbish and do not recommend a visit. Quiet beach is also mostly the same and it may be difficult to spot even a bit of clean sand here. The sand is of muddy brown colour and the entrance road may be lined with tender coconut sellers eager to make a quick buck.

Check : Goa in the monsoons – Top 5 experiences

Paradise Beach

Aptly named, with its white sand – Paradise Beach on a cloudless day might resemble an island in Maldives! It is approximately 20 kms away from Pondicherry and the starting point is called Chunnambar. From there government boats take you to the island on which Paradise Beach is located. Price for to and fro boat ticket is 220/- Rupees. There are many eateries on Paradise Beach and I highly recommend a visit for tourists on a weekday. On weekends Paradise beach gets jam packed with local picnickers.

Yoga in Pondicherry

There are a few yoga ashrams and centres around Pondicherry and it is slowly becoming popular as a yoga destination in South India, courtesy of the laid-back vibe surrounding Auroville.

Festivals in Pondicherry

International Yoga Festival is held in January in Pondicherry when many yoga teachers from across India converge on Pondicherry and yoga classes are held.

Bastille Day on 14th July is celebrated with much French fanfare and customs.

How to reach Pondicherry from Chennai?

The distance from Chennai to Pondicherry is around 155 kms and generally takes around 3 hours to cover even via public transport. Tamil Nadu (SETC) transport buses are quick and ply on the scenic East Coast Road (ECR) and the alternate highway too. For Volvo buses, Koyambedu stop is said to be the best. If one is looking to travel to Pondicherry from Chennai airport, some Volvo buses also stop at Guindy. For travellers looking to find the fastest way to reach Pondicherry from Chennai airport, I have already detailed it in the start of this article.

For those looking to travel to Auroville, STS (Auroville transport) runs shared taxis from Chennai airport to Auroville. Travellers in groups may find it easier to rent a cab from Chennai to Pondicherry, as the price per person can be compared to the Volvo prices.

Stay – Neemrana de L’Orient

I stayed for a day in this palatial heritage property from the 1760s. It is a manor house located in the heart of the French Quarter and has a beautiful inner courtyard shaded by neem trees. I loved their masala chai and the breakfast spread; their restaurant is supposedly quite recommended for the ‘creole’ cuisine.

Where to eat in Pondicherry?

Apart from the cafés popular with tourists in the French Quarter area – which I thought were pretty average; recommended places to eat in Pondicherry are Satsanga Restaurant, Surguru Restaurant, Karaikal Chettinad just after you cross the canal from the French Quarter. If the funky lights don’t trouble you, then Café Xtasi is known to have some of the best wood fired pizzas in Pondicherry.

An alternative idea is Food Heaven : Cafés & Restaurants in Auroville

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It was a lazy afternoon at H20 Chamba and other people of the group were wondering if they should go to Jot. I suggested Dainkund would be a better choice. Like most other times, this was just a random plan and a taxi was summoned. The only intent for the day was to click some good pictures, have a nice time and come back to Chamba, where we had settled ourselves to enjoy a relaxed weekend, but nature had its own plans for us.

The air was understandably cold when the sumo was in shade and we clung close to our solitary jackets. It was a clear day and the views over Chamera Dam were breathtaking. As we approached Banikhet, the snow-clad peaks were in their full splendour with the backdrop of the cloudless blue sky.

By the time we reached the intersection point for Kalatop (Lakkar Mandi) making our way through the touristy rush of Dalhousie jam packed with Delhi and HR vehicles, it was already 3 pm. There were many vehicles driven by outsiders that had got stuck causing a traffic jam and it was left to our sumo driver to clear it. I remember saying that the authorities should do something about this in tourist areas during snowy times.

The roads to Dainkund peak and Kalatop were snowed out and closed for traffic while day-trippers were enjoying their time in the white snow near Dalhousie. The sun is rapidly going behind the mountains and we walk past the entry gate to Kalatop Khajjiar Wildlife Sanctuary.

We are 7 of us and I cheekily suggest if everyone is ok with the idea of staying at Kalatop FRH (Forest Rest House), we can spend a memorable night there. Distance of Kalatop Wildlife Sanctuary is 3kms from the entrance gate at Lakkar Mandi. It seemed difficult to walk 3 kms and then go back due to the snow clad paths, it would take too much time. A few locals walk past and assure us that we can stay at homestays near the Kalatop FRH. After a bit of cajoling, we decide that it is indeed a super idea to stay inside the Kalatop Wildlife Sanctuary for the night.

Everyone was hungry too and we quickly cross the gate again and have aloo paranthas and chai at one of the dhabas at Lakkar Mandi. We dig into the piping hot paranthas and try finding out the phone number of the caretaker at the Kalatop FRH. The movie buffs among us, having witnessed the beauty of the FRH in the bollywood movie Lootera, reminisce dreamily.

Lootera was shot at this colonial architectural marvel, and we had a blooming desire in our hearts to relive those virtual moments by spending some time at this splendid house located in the middle of nowhere. And now that we were so close to Kalatop, a chance had to be taken!

Everyone wanted to pee; and it was difficult in the frozen public loo near the entrance. The official entry office was closed, someone told us we should be glad at not having to pay the ticket of Rs. 250 per person. Finally, we started our walk on the snow covered path leading to Kalatop. The 3 km walk amidst the dense deodar and fir forest was an experience to remember. The pristine snow clad Himalayan peaks, the stark whiteness of the undisturbed snow leisurely spread across the walking trail, and the multiple hues of the setting sun painted a surreal picture.

While words fail me in describing the beauty of that very moment, it will stay etched in my memory for a long time. We were dazed by the pristine beauty all around us and almost forgot that we are yet to arrange for our stay at the FRH.

By the time we reached the gate of this winter wonderland, it was already approaching 7 pm and was almost dark. Not a single soul was around and we had the entire FRH to us- the only problem was we were yet to find the caretaker. The breathtaking beauty was accompanied by bone chilling cold and none of us were prepared to be in out in the cold in sub-zero temperatures (we weren’t even carrying our day packs and were completely at the mercy of the weather gods).

God bless the pahadis for they always come to my rescue – one of the fellow travellers was from Shimla and used various permutations and combinations of his local connections to get our booking confirmed at the FRH. 2 rooms were opened and we cozied ourselves in the warm wooden cottages. After much roaming around, we managed to locate the caretaker in a nearby dhaba on the far end outside the Kalatop Forest Rest House boundary.

Dinner was had in a nearby dhaba and the simple rice, daal and sabzi made up for the hard work and coming to Kalatop in the winter cold felt worthwhile. We ate like hungry beasts because the rajmah was supremely delicious! Conversations flowed and stories were shared, while soaking in the feeling of being in a world far away. Snow covered our pathways and surroundings in the FRH and for a bit we also played with the icicles hanging on the roof. I had a gala time learning night photography from the pros, Nitish & Harish.

Before we would die with the cold, a pleasant discovery saved our night. The rooms had heaters hidden in the uppermost cupboards ensuring that we had a sound sleep. Leaving the chilly night behind us, we woke up to the welcoming warmth of the morning sun. The chai and aloo paranthas we had on the rooftop dhaba overlooking the snow clad Himalayas was an experience worth cherishing. Declaration of election results for Himachal was on the same day and the locals were animated in their excitement.

While I do promote solo travel as a means to discover oneself; travelling with like-minded, equally crazy travellers helps one discover the world of meaningful conversations; beyond the world of Facebook and Whatsapp. And this was one such trip where the cold and the lack of anything else to do meant it was the crazy stories that made everyone laugh their heart out.

Go to Kalatop Wildlife Sanctuary in the winters if you wish to get lost in the quietude of nature. There are options to stay other than the Kalatop Forest Rest House.

About Kalatop Khajjiar Wildlife Sanctuary and Kalatop FRH : Kalatop is located approximately 12 kms from Dalhousie and is a part of the Kalatop Wildlife Sanctuary. It comprises an area of 17 Sq. Kms. This semi-high altitude sanctuary is located at an altitude of 2500 meters above the sea level.

The FRH was built around 1925 during the time of the British Raj and is now a famous tourist attraction. While one can drive to the FRH during the summer months, the only way to reach the FRH in winters is walking on the snow clad path for around 3 kms. Vehicle entry is closed to the Kalatop Wildlife Sanctuary after snowfall in winter. There is a variety of wildlife to be seen in the Wildlife Sanctuary.

Check : Encounters at the end of the world in Himachal Pradesh

Kalatop FRH has basic amenities and is apt for someone looking to purify their mind & soul by the beauty of the nature, songs of the cool wind passing through the age old trees and majestic views of the glistering white Himalaya. I highly recommend it as a weekend destination from Delhi and Chandigarh with excellent volvo connectivity. There are direct HRTC Himsuta Volvo from Chamba to Delhi, Delhi to Dalhousie and return.

Since we were short of time (the sumo driver was keen on going back to Chamba soon) we could not explore the temple located nearby. There is a trekking route to Khajjiar from Kalatop which passes through the sanctuary (12 kms). There are other beautiful walking trails in and around the rest house which can be explored at leisure. We started walking back after a quick breakfast and made it to Lakkar Mandi in less than an hour.

Other posts : A Roadtrip Without a Plan: Destination No. 1 Khajjiar

Top Experiences and Places to Visit in Barot Valley

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Chapslee has an evocative air to it and is one of the oldest houses in Shimla.

The Kalka – Shimla Toy Train 

It was deemed fitting that we arrive in Shimla by the charming UNESCO World Heritage Kalka Shimla ‘toy train’. We reach Kalka at 3 in the night. The petite toy train to Shimla is supposed to depart at 6 am. The full moon was beckoning to me to take the train from Kalka to Shimla instead of the bus.

Although the train journey from Delhi to Shimla (Delhi-Kalka and Kalka-Shimla) took much longer (12-13 hours) as compared to taking a direct bus (9-10 hours), the grand views, bridges, tunnels and quaint colonial style stations made this train journey interesting. The samosa and refreshments at Barog station in the cool air was a welcome break!

Read : A lesser known ‘Himalayan toy train’

Hallmarks of Staying at Chapslee

A Family of Friendly Labradors

It is fun to walk in the garden with the snoozing dogs for company. Tara (a golden retriever) and Thunder (a black labrador) and their two kids (both labradors) lie in the sun all day long. They lend a very happy vibe and homely feel to the place. Plus, these gentle dogs are pure love!

Chapslee – A Palace steeped in History

Chapslee was originally constructed in 1830 by an East India Company official. It was built in the local architecture style called ‘dhajji‘; which enables the interiors to remain warm during winters and cool during summers. Chapslee was used for many official purposes, and among them it served as Lord Auckland’s secretariat during his tenure as Governor General of the East India Company.

Raja Charanjit Singh of Kapurthala purchased Chapslee in 1938. His grandson, Kanwar Ratanjit Singh opened the doors to Chapslee Palace in 1976 to make it the 8^th heritage hotel in India.

Check : An expert guide to Shimla

Artistry with Food – Cooked to Perfection and Served in Regal Style 

Raja Charanjit Singh was an eminent food connoisseur and Chapslee quickly became well known for the esteemed gatherings.

The finesse with which food is presented at Chapslee is quite incredible and charming. I gobble up insane portions of the apple crumble (made with fresh apples from Kinnaur). The spinach and baked egg is quite easily the best I’ve ever had. There is no menu here at Chapslee; who cares about that when the food is this good!

Dinner is served in silver cutlery that transports one to India’s glorious times. Personal butlers are close at hand, without being intrusive. Bed tea comes in fine bone china, while the evening tipple means a cupboard filled with elegant glasses is opened.

Read : An insider’s guide to Cafés & Shopping in Shimla

Seemingly away from it all… and yet Conveniently Close

I feel as if I’m living in a parallel world, away from the hustle and bustle of the mall road of Shimla (Or Simla). Chapslee lies in the heart of the old town in Shimla and most of the heritage sights are within a dimension of 3-4 kms from this haven of calm. The well known Chapslee School is close-by too.

I wasn’t particularly fond of Shimla and called it the ‘concrete jungle’; until the charms of slow travel took over. Shimla is best explored on foot; and Chapslee is the perfect place to begin the heritage walks showcasing British architecture.

Luxury like a King & Queen at Chapslee 

Luxury has different meanings for different people; and after having stayed at Marina Bay Sands in Singapore I had more or less realised that closed indoor air conditioned rooms didn’t really give me a ‘wow’ feel. Instead, solace was found in homestays which were more connected to the soul of a place and were owned by locals. It also gave me a happy feeling of contributing to the local community and also soaking in the culture.

A Living Legend – Kanwar Ratanjit Singh

Kanwar Ratanjit Singh (‘Reggie’ as he is called by those known to him) is a man who has clear opinions. Reggie says “To maintain the spirit of heritage, it is very important to use the place for the purpose for which it was actually built“; and that is why he has opened the doors of his home to visitors.

Sharing drinks in the evening in the dazzling grandeur of the living room and listening to stories from his childhood was one of my most memorable experiences of the evenings spent at Chapslee. The description of his school going days during the British times take one back to the days of yore. His fascination to retain his grandfather’s lifestyle, has resulted in Chapslee being included in the book ‘1000 Places to See Before you Die‘ by Patricia Schultz.

Nature and Flower Love while watching Shimla’s mist

The lush green courtyard also doubles up as an open air sitting space, best enjoyed for high tea. There is also a garden room full of petite flower pots; and a sizeable amount of my time at Chapslee was spent here – dreaming.

Read : A Comprehensive Guide to Kinnaur

The gardens with a lovely variety of flowers make it a beautiful alfresco sitting area. Even for an explorer like me, the thought of sitting and watching the clouds engulf Shimla is enticing – I choose to sit in the garden sipping a fine variety of Darjeeling Tea. It feels great to be able to think clearly and pen down my thoughts; which is a rare commodity in the chaotic world as a digital media nomad these days.

Unmatched Hospitality

Kanwar Ratanjit Singh’s hospitality and genuineness is visible in the efforts he takes to make your stay as memorable as possible. Right from recommending the sights, to exploring the hidden corners and long walks to nearby hillocks; to cooking your favourite delicacy, he makes sure everything is taken care of. He decided on special dishes in the menu everyday and prepared them himself to our delight; we could only lick our fingers in glee.

Our conversations continue in the very elegant Chota room, Reggie describes Chapslee as a very English / Scottish house, that has 6 rooms and each one different than the other. There is an untold joy in exploring this humongous castle type home – From the room furnishings to the joy of an open fire on chilly Shimla evenings. We can’t believe our luck when Reggie decides that we should be upgraded to The Luxury Suite (Raja Charanjit Singh’s room) which is also the best room in the house.

The staff appear smartly dressed with a Himachali cap. There are strategically placed bells around the interiors of Chapslee to summon the staff whenever required. Although this is the kind of place where wi-fi doesn’t matter, there is high speed internet at Chapslee.

Check : 2016 : A Year of Consolidation, Fulfilment and Paving the Way for a Lifetime of Travel

Antiques from around the World

The suite has 3 huge fire places (yes, 3!) that add to the opulent feel of staying in Chapslee. Momentarily I feel I am dreaming; it is indeed fortuitous for me to experience life in the museum like interiors of this heritage house.

Exquisite old paintings dating back to the British Era adorn the walls. Among the many riches here, there are intricately carved metal holders and cabinets from Venice, blue pottery vases from Multan (present day Pakistan). Persian & Afghan carpets and rugs cover the floor, chandeliers from Belgium and Italy hang about in the halls and lobby, and blue tiled fireplaces complete the fantasy.

Silence is Golden

The weathered wood at Chapslee tells many stories of grace and elegance, unmatched hospitality and flawless service. The decades of history associated means sophistication hangs delicately in the air. A soft glow and warmth flows out of its large beautiful windows offering me a view of the skies. In this fast paced world, sometimes calmness is associated with an eerie feel. Yet, at Chapslee the calmness is soothing.

The faded grandeur takes me back to the 19th Century, yet with all the modern comforts. In a place as fabled as Chapslee, you can bet that every visitor has an interesting story to tell. We meet IIM professors here and also a famous architect who was behind the restoration of the Gaiety Theatre in Shimla and also advisor to the restoration of Bhimakali Temple, Sarahan.

Read : Reminiscences from a two day snowfall

A Book Room (Yes, you read that right!)

The book lover in me swoons and a ‘love at first sight’ experience ensues with the well-stocked library. I spot first editions of a few books and an enviable coin collection. The reading room is a perfect set-up for perusing good old classics in a classy ambience. We enjoyed our time playing scrabble and had a trip down memory lane. There are also a few rare books to lay my hands upon!

Where you become a part of History

During the course of my stay at Chapslee Palace I feel like a time traveller at numerous points of time. Maybe the notion of time doesn’t exist here. Although the price of staying at Chapslee is steep, if you have an affinity for the good life; I’d suggest ‘go for it.’

Uttering the name ‘Chapslee’ seems sacrosanct, Kanwar Ratanjit Singh should be thanked for turning this home into a unique place to stay for lucky visitors for an experience like no other. Glittering with golden lights, antique furniture and a fine collection dating back to British times, Chapslee is an experience to remind one of the glorious royalty in the Imperial times of the Raj and put your name in the history books too! It is definitely one of the top places to stay in Shimla and also one of the best heritage hotels in India.

Ah, and now Reggie has asked me to come back when it snows.

Also check : Heaven in Himachal Pradesh

Note : My stay at Chapslee was in collaboration with PlushEscapes. Words, photographs, memories and opinions – as always, are my own. My reader’s and follower’s trust is of foremost importance – in short… You are my greatest priority.

Have other recommendations for great places to stay? Let me know.

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We were supposed to meet other friends in the main Tirthan Valley after that, but we slept so soundly and had to walk after missing the only bus of the day! The weather had surprisingly got quite balmy as we reached Banjar and boarded the bus to Batahad. We were supposed to reach a small hamlet by the name of Barnagi. I’d picked up a large and pretty pine cone to be carried with me but lost it somewhere on the way.

Also check : Nature’s delights, from a secret village in Parvati Valley

Dark clouds gathered as me and Jita got down from the bus and began tumbling down the walk-only path to reach our destination. A pretty structure by the name of Tirthan Angler’s Retreat welcomed us with a few raindrops. We were pretty famished and ran toward the dining room. The Flachan (Or Palachan) stream flowed in a calm manner, perhaps embodying Tirthan Valley’s speciality of life in a slow lane. The Flachan stream (or river) ultimately joins the Tirthan river in Gushaini.

All of life’s troubles could wait, sitting by the river and watching life go by was my favourite activity in Gushaini too!

The sunlight had all but disappeared and rain came hurtling down. It had become pretty cold, it felt even more so because I had only carried a basic jacket with me! A traditional Himachali home was our only neighbour and when the smoke blew through the chimney, my heart did a little dance. It seemed like a classic scene, especially as the sunlight briefly illuminated the sky before darkness engulfed us.

Next morning, I felt as if I had woken up in a dream; it had become even more colder and mist was all that surrounded us when I looked out of the window. The heart felt unhurried, after all there isn’t much you can do when it rains. The Italians sure have it figured out, they even have a specific term for it : ‘Dolce far niente’; which literally translates to ‘the pleasure of doing nothing!’.

As digital media nomads, we opted to sit and work on our laptops. Some others set out on a trip to Jalori Jot, I skipped it for having seen Jalori Pass earlier in all seasons.

Read : 5 offbeat places to spend the entire summer in the hills

When the weather finally cleared at around 2 or 3 in the afternoon, we headed out for a short walk. April sunshine warmed my stiff bones making me wonder about the relative summer warmth that the rest of the country must be experiencing. A rapid breeze blew across the landscape, the trees swayed happily and I felt a touch of relief, it wasn’t cold anymore!

It is on aimless walks that one realises a profound love for the simpler things in life : A bridge with sunlight falling on it, where does it lead? A solitary home on a hillock, who lives there? Kids playing on the roof of an old home, asking to be photographed. Noticing green and gold wheat and barley fields, with colourful womenfolk working in them. 

Evening brought with it a sense of camaraderie and conversations, with the added warmth of a bonfire. The river hummed along too, and carried a pleasing cool gust of wind with it. Today, the stars twinkled in absence of a cloud cover. There was no light pollution whatsoever; little pleasures of life in the Himalayas.

Check : Finding the offbeat in Manali

We said our goodbyes, intent on leaving as early as possible to go on a short trek to a pass nearby. It turned out that Tirthan Valley had already had its effect on us, we slept like lazy logs!

Note : Our time in Barnagi was spent at Tirthan Angler’s Retreat, in collaboration with Travel Correspondents and Bloggers Group. Experiences, photographs and memories, as always are my own.

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Last rays of the sun illuminate the snowy Himalaya, notice the moon rising through the narrow gap.
Clicked in Khajjiar.#TravelTuesday pic.twitter.com/B4vAGDxv9R

— Shubham Mansingka (@travelshoebum) October 4, 2016

Saying goodbye to 2015 in style!

After the epic wanderings of 2015, when more than 250 days were spent on the road; this was a year in which I moved in a decisive direction about making my travels financially sustainable without compromising on my style of travel. I experimented with a few trips and realised that the ‘doing’ a place in 3 days wasn’t my kind of life and hence graciously opted to say no to offers of travel.

Here, I attempt to embed my social media shares through the year. (Secretly hoping they work!) Ha ha.

This epic experience was published in HT Brunch Magazine.

The year started by attending the Jaipur Literature Festival and thereafter heading to Bundi and around for a slow holiday in this charming little town.

Bundi Café on the street.

After having explored Ladakh in the winters, I was keen on going to Spiti for a similar chilling experience and had a lovely time backpacking in buses and local transport. After my journey ended in March, it was known that I happened to be the only tourist to have made it to Losar village in the winters.

The road to Losar – In the winter.

A bout of craziness meant I walked from Jalori Pass to Shoja in the snow and stayed in Jibhi and attended some local festivals. My family joined in my wanderlust ways too and we headed to Pushkar for the colours of holi.

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Rhododendron flowers welcome trekkers on the trail to Triund in March.

My sister had been talking about a solo trip/trek forever and after she ended up going nowhere, the onus on me meant we went to McLeodganj and Triund for her first taste of the Himalaya (On her own.) It was quite nice when the experience turned out to be amazing even as snow flakes fell heavily on our trek.

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Khardung La in winter.

The little time I was in Jaipur was beautifully spent watching sunrises at Nahargarh Fort. I was pleasantly surprised to notice that Jaipur shines blue before the sun lights up the earth. It was already summer and brief visits to the hills happened. Orchha had beckoned for long and it was finally time for me to savour a visit to this ruined Kingdom.

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Music transcends boundaries.

The fairytale of Gushaini welcomed me for most of May and I had an unforgettable time trekking in pristine Great Himalayan National Park and bathing in the Tirthan river. A crazy decision meant reaching Mussoorie after travelling for almost 24 hours and Landour provided much needed solace.

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A homestay in the secret villages of Parvati Valley.

In between, Corbett National Park was visited and it was beautiful to see the clouds signal the onset of monsoon in India. I trekked to Kheerganga in Parvati valley and was disappointed with the crowds and was glad on finding a cute homestay in the hidden villages away from the world. (Haven’t yet managed to write about these places!)

Photography skills in the Himalaya

Heavenly scenes in the remote Pangi Valley.

My favourite month of July brought the air of high Himalaya with it as I spent it on the road backpacking across Saach Pass to the remote Pangi Valley. I felt unparalleled joy after exploring the few villages of Pangi Valley & the even more beautiful Miyar Valley. It was time for another epic adventure in the form of reaching Lahaul and then reaching Ladakh (Changthang) by hitchhiking in a truck. It was pure luck to receive rides, day after day and I ended up hitchhiking my entire time in the Changthang.

The wondrous roads in the ‘land of the lamas’.

Hitchhiking with the Lt. Colonel in Ladakh.

There was an epic failure of a day too, on that journey – when my brain had gone for a holiday. I travelled and walked all day and ended up very close to roughly where I had started. Sane stuff prevailed after this and I salvaged the rest of my trip.

Beauty on the Kashmir Great Lakes Trek.

And just when you thought it was enough, it was time to go to Kashmir to try and attempt going to the Great Lakes Trek. The tickets had been booked in a sale, and the tumultuous situation of the Burhani Wani curfew wasn’t enough for me to not go. In the end it turned out to be a life changing journey, fed by the love from strangers.

Kashmir in 4 pictures.

When the Gods summon you – At Amarnath.

Nandkhol Lake on the Kashmir Great Lakes Trek.

As much as I tried going to Kerala in the monsoons, the hills kept calling me and I was only happy with all the love in Uttarakhand. Excellent weather also meant it was a good time to see the historical sights of Delhi. A celebration was in order and it came in the form of a Chapslee experience in Shimla. Back home in Rajasthan, numerous trips through the year had me seeing Shekhawati in a different light.

Sunrise on the Ganges in Varanasi.

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Wow! Happily surprised with my portrait photography.

An invite from Uttar Pradesh Tourism meant I was in Varanasi for an event and then chose to stay and explore the ancient city on my own too. The experience was extraordinary and so epic that I am still struggling for words to pen it down. My fear of breathing issues was put to rest, I wore a mask and was rewarded with Diwali celebrations in Jaipur.

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Spectacular Diwali Lights of Jaipur.

The quirks of Jodhpur, Pali, the Bishnoi Villages, arts, crafts, bedsheets and opium ceremonies happened amidst the demonetisation drama and I barely just managed to scrape through to Jaisalmer. Lack of cash meant I slept at a dhaba at the Sam Sand Dunes and barely survived even though the experiences were fulfilling.

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Sunset on the sand dunes amid demonetisation worries.

A 10 rupee note was never spent better when an shared auto ride brought me to the hamlet of Khichan, near Phalodi – chiefly famous for the Khurja (Or demoiselle cranes). While I liked watching the cranes perform their collective antics, the unsung delight of Khichan was an entire lane of timeless havelis, all abandoned.

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Welcome to heaven, in Parvati Valley!

I started working with brands in 2015, and was happy to hear their feedback this year on my engagement on social media, which, according to them is excellent and quite similar to some of the top in the industry. Maybe it was because of the wholly organic following and sharing experiences on the road as they happened and the interactions. I had never thought I could live a dream life.

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Kasol in November.

Let me tell you it isn’t easy; travel blogging requires hard work and patience as well as quality. The payoffs won’t come in a jiffy and that only means the joy is even more sweeter when things finally start working. Like all good things in life, there is no substitute for hard work.

I want to thank each one of you for reading this. As a traveller and full time professional travel blogger, I prefer to share experiences rather than hanker after followers. After all, rushing at a breakneck speed isn’t really something I am good at.

It would be awesome if you can share your favourite travel posts in the comments Always happy to read nice content.

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The Doon Valley is shrouded in mist and like a new lover, teases me with a few subtle glimpses of the riches on offer as the road climbs higher to the hill station of Mussoorie. I open the window of my room as soon as I walk in and a steady gust of wind carries white mist with it. I rejoice; my heart sings. As a traveller, nothing makes me happier than being in the midst of nature and breathing clean and pure mountain air.

A pleasant afternoon walk was in the offing and we oblige.

The Historic Camel’s Back Road

This is a walk only road as vehicles are not allowed during the day; it begins near the Picture Palace and ends near Library Chowk (Kulri Bazaar) through Camel’s Back. This road takes its name from a rocky outcrop in the shape of a camel’s hump. We pass the skating rink that is housed in a hotel. There is a cemetery that looks like a church; apparently it is more than 150 years old!

Away from the hustle and bustle of mall road, we see the delights of Uttarakhand. Water chestnuts vie for our attention, while we walk among the load bearing Nepalis. It must have been the salubrious air of this pretty hill town that attracted the British. The day had begun with a mist so fierce that someone might have felt it would never ever clear. But like life’s troubles get over with time, the sun too makes an appearance and breaks through the clouds and shoos them away. 

Plenty of rain falls in these parts lending the pavements a generous coating of moss. We see various kinds of oak and rhododendron trees devoid of the flower that the tree is more widely known for. Brightly coloured houses peek through the lush greenery and are sometimes hidden from view until I am directly in front of them. A smattering of dhabas and chowmein joints informs that we have reached Camel’s Back.

I don’t usually believe the touristy shenanigans but am pleasantly surprised to spot a rock shaped as a camel’s back. School kids vrooming on their new scooters is the only traffic we encounter. Peace messages adorn signboards when we pass the Nirankari Baba Ashram. Various viewpoints called ‘Hawa Mahal’ have been installed at many points along the road; it is a great place to sit and enjoy the sights at your own pace.

On the other side of the valley, clouds rise like cotton balls amidst the few houses nestled among the greens. Dusk falls and incredible sunset colours dominate the sights. The snowy peaks give us a brief chance to see their splendour. Near Library Chowk the trail joins the Mall Road, families jostle to buy tickets at The Ritz (Mussoorie’s only movie theatre). We pass the famous little eatery – Lovely Omelette Centre at Kulri Bazaar; it has already downed shutters for the day.

The cable car that takes visitors to Gun Hill is to our right, along with a pretty stone structure with statues of Freedom Fighters. Lights at the mall road glitter while we walk back in the serenity of darkness.

Where did I wake up? In Paradise… perhaps!

As soon as I wake up and let the window ajar, fog enters my abode. I quite like this setting of bright colours sprinkled with yellow and blue.

A walk in the misty forest would later turn out to be one of the highlights of Mussoorie.

George Everest House & Haathipaon Walk

The car drops us in the middle of a path that ends abruptly in the dense forest. We are supposed to walk towards Haathi Paon near George Everest House (Mt. Everest was named after him.) Sir George Everest was the first Surveyor General of India and was largely responsible for a big section of the Great Trigonometrical Survey of India.

It is the perfect weather for a leisurely stroll while breathing in the aroma of the forest. Moss is a dominating feature on the trees and the dark shade of green is a delight for greenery starved eyes. It is only fitting that in this fairytale kind of weather, we come upon the sight of a wishing well! Legend has it that if a coin falls directly in the water without hitting the walls, the thrower’s wish was fulfilled.

Local Garhwali women fill water from the well to be carried to their faraway homes and cheerfully exchange greetings. There is a dhaba amid scenic beauty near the well but the owners are nowhere to be seen, and our hopes of having chai in the mist quickly fade away. The sun (as if on cue) makes its way through as we walk to see a lone tower stand atop a hillock. It is an annexe to the George Everest House.

The house itself is in a shabby shape and might wear a haunted look if no one is around. Graffiti is scribbled on the walls and Langurs abound. Locals tell me that a new year music festival held at the George Everest House was quite a hit! There is also the Benong Bird Sanctuary for bird lovers.

A nearby hillock is piled with fluttering prayer flags; young lovers loiter around the two cafés that are in the vicinity. We walk a descending path to sight a very competitive cricket match that is in progress on a flat stretch of a beautiful green ground surrounded by pine trees.

We also see the other side of the elephant mountain (Haathipaon). It is very chilly as blustery winds blow while trees laden with walnuts sway furiously. On our way back, I sight a colossal structure (British looking) owned by the family of Kapurthala; it looks like an English Castle. It was built in 1899 and is known as The Kapurthala Estate. Sadly, entry is a restricted affair and I am denied a closer look at this wonderful delight from yesteryear.

We are happy to be back watching the fog envelop Mussoorie;  from the warm confines of my suite. I had gotten excited at the mention of a hundred year old house made of wood in a nearby town and had expressed a desire to visit it. Traditional architecture has always appealed to me; it also tells a lot about the culture and history of a place.

A Timeless Himalayan Village – Bhatoli

A short 20 km downhill drive on the Chakrata-Tiuni road brought us to the village of Bhatoli. Maize fields surround the 25 houses of Bhatoli, a gurgling stream flows, clouds make merry on a nearby mountain even as the sun shines in glee. We walk to the house of one Mr. Sanwal.

There it stood, proud and taut and hardly gave away its 100 year old status. The wooden pillars had been painted afresh and gave the house a different look. Once inside, I was astounded to see sliding windows from a century ago. The base was made with stones and mud and was used as a storage place while the part where the family lived was made entirely out of Deodhar wood. (Literally wood of the gods.) Corn is left to dry and hangs everywhere on the strings giving the village a unique character.

Typically, the height of these houses is low and one has to stoop through the gates to get in. We were in to have our wishes fulfilled (remember the wishing well) and the family welcomes us with tasty and sweet steamed corn. Life goes on unchanged in the villages and it is a pleasant delight to see the slow pace of life in Bhatoli village. We pass the touristy Kempty Falls on our way back, the waters of which have swollen by the bountiful monsoons.

The drive is pure adventure in the dark, the fog makes sure that visibility is reduced to barely ten feet. The road twisting and turns, a song on the radio brings us to life. We scream and sing along in delight, the cab driver joins in the fun!

Back in Mussoorie, its a different view altogether, twinkling lights across the entire Doon Valley are visible in an unending panorama. Faint sound of loudspeakers indicates that celebrations of a hindu festival are underway. I snuggle into my warm bed and let the cool breeze lull me to sleep.

Erstwhile Heritage Structures of the British – Landour

The sun has finally triumphed in its battle with the clouds and I am privy to a spectacular bird’s eye view of Dehradun and the entire Doon Valley. The sky is a glorious colour of blue, nearby hills and heritage structures of Mussoorie are also visible. We walk toward the timeless British Cantonment Area of Landour and are pleased to see it as beautiful as always.

Mussoorie’s lush green hills and the iconic Woodstock School are visible as we make the circular walk from Char Dukaan to Lal Tibba while passing Sister’s Bazaar and the Christian Cemetery on the way. St. Paul’s Church shines in the bright sun; we stroll happily to see the beautiful Kellogg Church & Language School. I buy some jams at Prakash Uncle’s shop and happily smell coffee beans at Landour Bakehouse; everyone in Landour recognises me – courtesy of the four days spent here earlier this year.

Rokeby Manor’s owner, Mr. Sanjay Narang seemingly owns most of the land in Landour. Cute signboards near his newly built home inform us that it is indeed a charming cottage owned by Mr. Narang himself.

The beautiful house of Victor Banerjee named Parsonage wears a cheery feel. It is blissful among the whispering pines and views stretching as far away as Dehradun are clearly visible. On our way back, the car stops at Doma’s Inn and we are shown Mr. Ruskin Bond’s residence.

Entry to the cemetery is only allowed once a week. 

Quaint spaces in Landour, utterly charming and delightful.

Mosaic Hotel, Mussoorie : Located just before the parking at Picture Palace, Mosaic Mussoorie is the right kind of mix to explore Mussoorie at your own relaxed pace. It is an ideal choice for families and people looking for comfortable travel as cars are not allowed to drive any further on the Mall Road. A big mention for their Chef Mr. Dheeraj – I was enthralled by a tasty dish of the dreaded green leaf ‘Sisnu’ locally called bicchu ghaas and in English – stinging nettle. 

The above walks were guided and arranged by Mosaic Mussoorie. Depending on the season and weather, they offer options of ten walks in and Mussoorie for travellers to have a right mix of exploring Mussoorie even while staying in the vicinity of Mall Road. Various activities that they arrange except the above mentioned are food walks, short treks, bird watching, cycling, photo walks, picnics and other sights nearby. Their guides are well informed locals and have in depth knowledge of the area.

Disclaimer : I was at Mosaic Mussoorie on an invitation. The views shared here are my own and completely unbiased. My readers’ trust is my greatest priority.

For more travel stories, anecdotes and experiences connect with me on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram.

Read : Travel memories of 2015

They repeatedly coaxed me to spend more on my vacations and not roam around like a backpacker. I did that by experimenting with gourmet food at chic eateries in Goa.

I had originally been looking at flying to Europe, but due to cheap airfares to Singapore and Thailand opted for the latter and how glad in retrospect that I did. It was pure adventure after reaching the plush Changi airport in Singapore; the guy who was supposed to pick me up had decided not to turn up and left me to experiment with the Singapore Metro.

I was booked at the Marina Bay Sands and somehow made my way to this extravagant place located in the prime area of Singapore. If memory serves me right, the cheapest room was priced at $250. In hindsight, this stay was instrumental in me becoming the type of traveller that I now am. Know more About Me.

I was in a lavish structure that was made of concrete with a dazzling skyline view of Singapore. Yet my heart kept yearning for the simplicity of a family homestay somewhere else. The bed was fluffy and very comfortable, yet the air conditioned environment shackled me.

‘If life was meant to be lived in four walls of a hotel, then all millionaires would die happy.’

The bathroom was jazzy with temperature controlled baths sending me into a tizzy. My simple brain could hardly comprehend the complexity and either ended up with scalding hot water or ice cold splashes.

There were three or four in-house restaurants and I could savour breakfast to my heart’s content. Also, we Indians (especially when we are travelling) try and make best use of available resources and I did the same by opting to gorge on the beautiful spread (So that lunch was automatically skipped!)

The top floor of Marina Bay Sands called Sands SkyPark was the star attraction, it was perched on the 57th floor and the elevator zipped through to the top. There was an infinity pool with stunning views of the Singapore Skyline, an observation deck and the fancy restaurant Ku De Ta (Since renamed CÉ LA VI). Residents of Marina Bay Sands could dine at Ku De Ta, otherwise it attracted an entry fee of 100SGD for outsiders!

I stayed for 2 nights and some of my favourite parts were :

Walking around the colossal lobby looking upwards at the beautiful ceiling

Savouring the aroma(s) of various cuisines roaming near the restaurants

Jacuzzi at Infinity Pool at Sands SkyPark

Night views of Singapore skyline from the observation deck

Spa, steam and sauna treatments 

My mind constantly went back to my backpacker sojourns as my businessman bent of mind started comparing the costs involved vis-a-vis the experience. It was also an eye opener in terms of the beauty of India and the joys of exploring my own country rather than going abroad. I decided I wanted to explore more of India before laying foot on foreign lands.

Also check : Himalayan boy goes to the islands of Thailand

Read : Romancing the monsoon in Corbett

For more travel stories, anecdotes and experiences connect with me on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram.

The air was heavy in anticipation of the much awaited monsoon that was supposed to be knocking on our doors. I was in the foothills of the Himalayas in the the quaint village of Dhikuli. We waited with bated breath for some respite from the balmy, almost unbearable weather. The mountains were shrouded in a cloak by the clouds. They say ‘Good things come to those who wait.’ After a night spent in coaxing the clouds, it was time to wake up to a green carpet. The rain gods had decided it was time to gently usher in happiness and impart a semblance of coolness to the surroundings.

Uttarakhand, like wine had began to enchant me – I had spent more than 2 months travelling around Kumaon last summer and just two weeks ago had returned from Landour.

Read : Binsar through my eyes

The road passed through a pretty dense forest to bring us near the Tiger Country of Corbett National Park. Men created magical music from Uttarakhand’s traditional form of ‘Tholia nrutya’ and womenfolk danced in Garhwali costumes. A herd of deer had apparently come to drink water, their eyes shined. It made me aware of a full moon night; a soft breeze blew across the lush garden. I felt like a character in a fairytale, a thin sliver of cloud cut the moon in half and with the swing made for a great photograph.

Next morning, the great outdoors welcomed me with wide open arms, I sipped chai on a wooden chair and table drinking in the full view of the astonishing cloud play in front of my eyes. I couldn’t believe my luck, there was no one else but me savouring the stunning show. Clouds floated dizzily, the hitherto dry riverbed of Kosi suddenly saw some movement of water and a horse came leisurely to complete a mesmerising picture.

Yoga on International Yoga Day

Yoga has a special significance in my life; I was an asthma ridden person once and in retrospect I attribute my positive energy and never-say-die attitude to yoga and meditation in Rishikesh. In the soothing serenity of the mountains, my lungs were raring to breathe in the calmness of the Himalayas. The yoga teachers were a jolly couple and happily started the day with a yummy ginger lemon honey tea (Incidentally my favourite drink in the mountains.) I was a bit skeptical about being able to successfully perform the intricate act of ‘Jal Neti’ but it was a pleasant surprise to get it right in the first go.

Jal Neti – Is performed with a vessel and you pour water in one nostril and bring it out from another. It helps in clearing out the sinuses and is responsible for a happy aftereffect.

With the majestic background of the Himalayas, there was a certain zen calm in the surroundings and with sun salutations, I almost began to fly in happiness. I could feel positive energy coursing through my veins after the short experiment with meditation.

I lounged around on the perfectly located swing and imagined that the clouds floated along and took me to a dreamy paradise. Dark clouds hovered and three of us decided to go on a small drive to an ancient temple nearby. Kosi river was in full flow after the downpour and devotees thronged from far and wide; we decided to walk to a hanging bridge instead. Couples and youth from nearby villages loitered and enjoyed full pleasure of the rainy season among beautiful sights. The shades of green were spectacular and we enjoyed our walk on the hanging bridge that swayed with the wind.

Jim Corbett National Park

After the media coverage of India’s dwindling tiger population in 1972 – Indira Gandhi initiated Project Tiger that coordinated with state governments and forest departments to work for tiger conservation. Jim Corbett National Park was established as the first national park in India with five zones for eco-tourism – Bijrani, Durgadevi, Dhela, Jhirna and Dhikala.

Tiger Safari

Corbett National Park would soon close for the monsoons, only to reopen in October and we were very keen on not letting this opportunity pass us by. Imran Khan – A staunch wildlife naturalist, was with us. He is a jolly fellow and is a pioneer in conservation, wildlife management and has been associated with Jim Corbett National Park for over 25 years. I listened in rapt attention to the amount of priceless knowledge being imparted and came to know of a big reason why forests should not be destroyed.

A natural forest produces 700 times more oxygen versus a man-made forest. 

It was almost 2 in the afternoon and with our bellies full, we jumped in the open air jeeps and roared into action. The day was pleasant and everyone was excited at the prospect of seeing a tiger. There was a queue at the entry gate, once inside it was just us and the jungle. Sunlight filtered through the tall trees and created unbelievable patterns; ants had created mountains of sand by the slender track. They looked like castles, it was a pretty sight – a jeep in front on a small road with trees surrounding us on both sides.

The drive passed through pretty scenery as we went farther and farther inside the jungle, the birds chirped as it drizzled intermittently. The smell of petrichor was rife in the air, we were delirious with happiness. We crossed numerous small streams on our bumpy yet enjoyable ride with spectacular vistas of clouds playing hide and seek with the mountains in the far distance.

Mr. Imran Khan also explained to us the economic worth of a tiger and how local communities benefit when tigers are conserved versus being poached. It was an informative discussion, my heart went out for tiger conservation by the end of it.

Luxury in the Himalayas

Great pleasure lay in diving into the pool while stark sunshine made the proceedings sultry. There were gazebos to lounge around while looking dreamily at the magically coloured landscape.  Special emphasis was made for lightly flavoured food and health food with minimal use of processed and packed ingredients. Bonsai were planted in dazzling symmetry, there was a waterfall fountain that looked even more beautiful in the midst of flowers on the trees. The cottages were so designed to give a feeling of isolation yet among the midst of nature and the pathway was well lit with beautiful warm lights in the night.

You can build the nicest place ever and watch it being turned to dust if the staff isn’t good. Therein lies the greatest tribute to Namah; I had lost my gold ring in the swimming pool and was quite perturbed at the loss. Within no time, the staff manager had dived into the pool and emerged with my ring. I was speechless in delight. Thats how honesty works and the staff had won my heart.

So I could see no tiger while at Corbett National Park but that wasn’t my whole objective of coming. The greatest pleasures in life lie in the unexpected delights that nature and life throw upon you. The monsoon had breathed a fresh lease of life and green in the landscape; I had watched the dry Kosi become a free flowing river again. I had a secret wish of watching the glorious sight of monsoon cover the landscape and I watched it all come together in Corbett.

If you are a nature lover and peaceful vacations are your thing, then Namah on the confines of Corbett National Park could be a fabulous weekend getaway from Delhi and a recommended place to stay when you are visiting Corbett. It is conveniently located on NH-121.

Disclaimer : I was at Namah on an invitation. All the views shared here are my own and completely unbiased. My readers’ trust is my greatest priority.

We were tired, having just come from a small trek to Rasol. The smiling staff instantly made us feel welcome and ushered us into our royal cottage. The sight of manicured green lawns made me swoon with delight. It was drizzling and that only added to the pleasantness.

The Himalayan Village comprises of six cottages, named after various districts of Himachal Pradesh and two huge treehouse style rooms called Machans. The entire property is designed in a traditional style and is nestled in the periphery of a devdhar forest. The roaring Parvati river flows on the other side of the road and completes the fairytale. The sound is just right, not noisy and gushing, but a tranquil hum in the background. How refreshing to arrive at a place like this amid the concrete jungle that the Himalayas are fast turning into!

Read : All you need to know about Mukteshwar

Mr. Kamlesh at the reception was gracious to recommend to us the dishes for an authentic Himachali lunch while we admired the views. Each cottage has private lawns and cast-iron chairs to really make the guests feel like kings. Aesthetics of the mountains have been kept in mind and traditional Kathkuni style of architecture has been adopted (dry stacking of stone and wood without cement). The nature lover in me was pleased when clouds gathered on a nearby cliff and I could laze in the sit out while it poured outside. The interiors of every cottage are pleasing to the eye and have been mud plastered using natural colours. The attention to detail is phenomenal; be it intricately carved teak furniture and a royal looking couch, deodhar wood roof, handmade silk curtains, warm lights and bathing accessories, and the elaborate mirror in the dressing area.

Read : Rustic Luxury in Sonapani, Uttarakhand

Lunch had arrived while we were still jumping around our spacious cottage savouring the views from every window. The aroma of ‘Siddu’ and ‘Dham’ tantalised my taste buds and I almost slipped into heaven on my first bite of siddu dunked into a bowl of home made ghee. ‘Dham’ is the name given to the traditional Himachali thali. Those plates were polished off in no time and my mouth is watering sitting in Jaipur, as I think about the delicacies at The Himalayan Village in Kasol!

Read : Ten foodie delights of Manali

I was on a food high as evening came and the ethereal sky was bestowed with glorious colours, the rain having duly stopped. We went for a stroll through the walkway while the lights were being switched on and stumbled upon a temple; yes there’s a beautiful Shiva Temple in the The Himalayan Village and mellifluous sounds of a ceremony might gently waft in your ears at 10 in the morning.

There are two cozy dining areas, impeccably designed with diwans and located amid lush greens and a plethora of flowers; chief among them roses of various colours. A nice little collection of books await the traveller too. I make it a point to thank the chef for making us taste local Himachali cuisine. Dinner is delectably cooked north Indian food and the breads have been made to perfection. (P.S: I’m a fussy eater.)

We sleep soundly in nature’s lap with our bellies full. A gentle breeze blows, bringing fireflies along. Over hushed voices, they drift out twinkling just as they had come in. This place is tranquil and peaceful and completely bathed in the sound of silence.

I wake up sleepy eyed in the morning and click something on my phone. It turns out to be a masterpiece later! Clear blue skies, sunlight peering through the dense devdhar forests, the aroma of nature and petrichor after the rain. Could I really ask for more? Turns out I could!! The foodie in me was having a jolly good time with all the goodies on offer. Breakfast included organic honey made on-site, in addition to peach and apple jam. The fresh peach and apricot juice (fruits picked straight from the trees) was heavenly with chhole bhature & gobi paranthas (my favourite).

Read : Binsar through my eyes

We were shifted to the scenically perched Kullu Machan for an even more royal experience. It was a bigger cottage, designed like a tree house and aromatic too having been made entirely of devdhar wood. We behaved like excited kids, opening all the windows and clicking pictures of the birds eye view of the resort.

There’s a balcony to sit and laze while the world goes by. We were enchanted and danced with the staff when they put on a rare performance of Himachali folk dance for us in the evening. It is a subtle form of dance with slow movements and Himachali songs are so pleasing to the ears. Sheer delight to remember those songs with much fondness. The night from our balcony held breathtaking views of the stars above and the entire resort twinkled in perfectly placed lantern lights.

This place deserves to be among the various lists of top places to stay in India for letting travellers have a real taste of Himachal Pradesh and keeping the traditional aspects in mind including the use of mud, stone and wood in the construction. Next time instead of heading to Manali; think about heading here and forgetting your worldly troubles in the lap of nature and amazing hospitality. Their staff is worth emulating, always with a smile on their faces dressed in impeccable white and a Himachali cap.

Read : The Havelis of Shekhawati

You feel happy when minute details are taken care of. Study table, eight inch mattresses, sofas that sink in, curtains that let in just the right amount of light. The best part is that the owner, Aman Sood is involved in the day-to-day activities of the resort and makes it a point to meet the guests personally once or twice a day. He and his wife took seven long years to painstakingly create this work of art. Its a pleasure to listen to him while he imparts his know-how with bits of culture thrown in about the resort. I am insanely happy to experience this calm away from the madness of Kasol.

I was really living a dream. I could get used to this life. Fresh air in the mountains and food that leaves you feeling energised in my favourite state in India. Himachal Pradesh really feels like home. I hope someday I can settle down here for good. The days passed by in a whiff but instead of saying goodbye I say ‘au revoir’; the French expression that means “Goodbye, till we meet again.” I know I am going to come here someday when its covered in snow. My heart does a little dance visualising that.

Home is where the heart is. Mine has always been in the mountains.

Read : The fairytale of Gushaini & GHNP

Practical Details 

To Reach : Approximately 600 Kilometres from Delhi. Take the Manali route (NH-21) till Bhuntar and then a right to Manikaran. The Himalayan Village lies on the right side of the road roughly 7 kilometres before Kasol.

Spa : Complete with massages and aromatherapy, and acupressure along with steam bath, sauna heat bath and jacuzzi.

Activities : Angling, nature walks, jungle incursions, orchard picnics, nearby treks, mountain cycling, rock climbing, rappelling, rafting and jeep safaris are among the many activities that can be organised. Barbecue and bonfire can be organised on request. There’s a well stocked bar with a vintage collection.

The Himalayan Village practises eco-tourism, responsible tourism, and a pet friendly property. Agri tourism with a tour of the fruit orchards nearby can be organised too.

Disclaimer : I was at The Himalayan Village, Doonkhara on an invitation. All the views shared here are my own and completely unbiased.

Also check : The Shimla of Old : Life at Chapslee

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