Also, the theory of Chettinad food being spicy was also turned on its head after a few meals; the spice levels being quite mild and the use of spices was to flavour the food in a balanced manner than to make it overpowering to the palate! Isn’t this what travel is all about? To let us experience for real what we have only read so far.

After about an year and a half of ‘living’ in the mountains; spending last winter in Kasar Devi, Uttarakhand – and then the next year in Kullu Valley; we were really missing the raw feel of travelling in unfamiliar territory and thereby ended up booking tickets to Chennai. At the outset; it felt like a sea change upon landing in Tamil Nadu. The weather was comparatively mild in Pondicherry and Auroville and that sort of allowed us to somehow adjust to the unusually hot weather in March.

The drive from Pondicherry to Chettinad was memorable as it was overcast the entire day and that turned the countryside into a veritable shade of green. We left from Pondicherry at about 8 am after a quick breakfast of idli, sambar vadas from a roadside stall. On one of the short stops, it was nice to sip sweet tender coconut water and bite into chunks of plump sugarcane sticks being sold on the road.

It started pouring as we neared Tiruchirappalli, and it made for an excellent stop at a small coffee shop on the way – it advertised Kumbakonam degree coffee and it definitely had a unique strong flavour to the steaming mugs of coffee. We saw men and women working in the submerged paddy fields and as we neared Visalam, I had a short glimpse of a fort on a rocky outcrop and made a mental note of asking more about it.

We were shown the way to the palatial Chettinad Room and informed that lunch was ready to be served in the aptly named ‘Sapadu Shala’, (literally food room). The welcome drink Chukku kaapi made with dry ginger and palm jaggery was tantalising in taste. Lunch was served in a banana leaf and included a delicious array of dishes that made me wish I had a bigger appetite / stomach!

The Sapadu Shala was housed in a traditional Chettiar kitchen and it was a memorable sight to notice that traditional brass utensils were used for cooking as well as for decor to provide an authentic experience of a Chettinad mansion. The dishes served are homemade lemon pickle, onion pachadi, kar paavakai varuval (bitter gourd fritters), podalangai poriyal (stir fry snake gourd), kodamilagai mandi (capsicum+garlic mix), pookose poriyal (cauliflower stir-fry), vazhakkai varuval (raw banana snack), nei sadham (ghee rice), aavarakai sambar (broad beans sambar), sundavatha kulambu (bitter berries mix), rasam, curd and payasam.

My biggest and most pleasant surprise at Visalam was the abundance of greenery in the outdoor spaces and the riot of bougainvillea blooms in different colours like white, purple, red, pink, yellow (maybe I missed a few other colours!). The flowers spread like a carpet on the grass and with the breeze blowing in the open air courtyard spread bouts of happiness. I spotted eclectic cast iron chairs in the ‘garden café’ – the usual haunt for breakfast at Visalam.

One of the doors opened to bring forth the sight of the swimming pool and after the longest break largely caused to covid; it called for a short tryst in the welcoming cool waters. The sunset colours were most epic as we climbed up on one of the rooftops for a better view. As night fell, the sound of cicadas filled the air reminding us that we were in a palatial home alright; with the right mix of nature’s gifts.

Siva (staff at Visalam) charted out next day’s plan and since the weather was excellent for the time being, we decided to go on a leisurely heritage walk across Kanadukathan. The staff at Visalam is mostly employed locally and it is delightful to hear their anecdotes while they narrate the stories. I was astounded at the grandness of the Chettiar homes (built between 1850 to 1950) and when Siva pointed out that some of the homes were so huge that 1 home covered an entire street; I had to actually go back and check every street to confirm the same and it indeed turned out to be true.

Some of the mansions owned by the Chettiars had 60 odd rooms (a few even boast of 100 rooms) and a typical mansion would have a garden and their own well. The Chettiar mansions were opulent with use of teak, chandeliers and glass from Burma, Belgium and Murano (Italy) respectively and a hallmark of these houses was the intricate wooden work on the doors, pillars and even on the ceiling.  

A common theme among the mansions was that almost all of them seemed to be uninhabited. Siva took us across to a mansion that was in a family dispute and had an immaculately maintained half part of the house while the other half was in a derelict and crumbling condition. We also came across village ponds with temples constructed around them that served as water sources in the earlier days and also in the present times with well maintained clean water.

Evening was fast approaching and even though we felt like continuing the walk; the lure of fresh filter coffee was bait enough for us to return to Visalam. From 4 to 6-630 pm in the evening and 7 to 10 am in the morning, Geetha (staff at Visalam) is in charge of tea and coffee and I have no hesitation in saying that the filter coffee and masala tea at Visalam was the best during our entire Tamil Nadu trip.

Dinner was served under the skies by the pool and was an exotic mix of traditional ingredients made in a fusion style – all thanks to the chefs and Siva. The attention to detail was so immaculate and the experience so nicely personalised, I was compelled to ask Siva if there was a menu for guests or if he was a champion in reading their minds and knowing what they wanted to eat! It is the norm to eat a little more than usual when you are in Chettinad and that necessitated a walk around the pool. After gazing at the stars for a while, we decided to call it a night and slept in the cozy four-post bed looking at the Burma teak ceiling.

We woke up and rushed to get our dose of morning chai and filter coffee and ended up walking bare-feet in the lawn while listening to birdsong. It is delightfully relaxing and while Siva has made a hectic to-see list for the day; I am mentally prepared to take it slow. We have a light breakfast of the usual idli, podi dosa, uttapam, ragi upma and leave at 10 am.

What to see in Chettinad?

Athangudi Palace – Athangudi Periya Veedu

Hardly 10 odd minutes drive from Kanadukathan, the Athangudi Palace is a stunning Chettiar mansion with a dazzling hall. There are 2 young women at the entrance who ask for a 50 Rupee entry fee but language issues mean I couldn’t really ask them about the history of the Palace and resign myself to internet research for more details. Most of the rooms of the Periya Veedu are closed but it is the main hall that is the highlight here; and it comes as no surprise that it is a popular shooting location.

Athangudi Tiles

The defining feature of the mansions of Chettinad is the use of exclusively handmade tiles made in Athangudi and our next stop was to visit a tile maker. I spotted a tour group bus outside their premises and the eagerness of one of the managers to get us to ‘make our own tiles’ rather than simply explaining how the tiles were made meant we went for a quick perusal by ourselves and figured the different stages of the designing of these unique handmade tiles. The Athangudi tiles come with colourful patterns and are used on the floors, on the walls or even on the ceiling!

Sri Solai Aandavar Temple

It was nice to visit a temple in this part of the country and observe the rich architecture. There were a lot of locals also visiting the temple and the shaded part was a welcome break from the relentless sun.

Visalam Owners House, Kottaiyur

Aachi (Visalam House’s owner) is wonderful to talk to and she made sure we were shown nook and corner of the grand house. The hall had a grand ceiling decorated with yalis (mythical creature) and the inner courtyard with majestic round pillars made with Burma teak. She asked for a buttermilk to be served to us to serve as a coolant. Aachi affectionately means – grandmother.

Murukku Factory

This place in Kottaiyur was very authentic and ladies were frying murukku on firewood and making other sweets and snacks. We bought a packet of freshly packed murukku and wondered what all did they make! Later, after coming back Siva remarked that the ladies also made adirasam (a traditional sweet in Tamil Nadu.)

Karaikudi Cotton Weavers

Chettinad and Karaikudi region have a rich history of cotton weaving on handloom. We visited one of the cotton weavers and saw the excellent quality of sarees they wove.

Karaikudi Antique Market

A cluster of shops on the Muneeswaran Kovil street, Kallukatti in Karaikudi is more popularly known as the Karaikudi Antique market courtesy of the stuff sold coming from Chettiar mansions. The collection in some of the shops is excellent but the prices are quite inflated. Honestly, I think the shops have understood the game and quote 20 times the price of a product leaving you with almost no chance of buying it at a fair price.

It is excruciatingly hot with the sun beating down today and with no clouds to shield us, we get back to Visalam at 3 pm and immediately request for curd rice to be made for lunch. Siva is disappointed, having planned an elaborate meal for us. He coaxes us into sharing a vegetarian platter on a banana leaf, along-with the curd rice of course! I am especially enamoured by the carrot payasam.

We are advised to rest for a while because it is very hot outside. Once evening descends, we go for a short walk exploring the streets of Kanadukathan and are happily surprised at stumbling upon more Chettinadu mansions. There’s a curious looking place and it turns out to be a merchant selling freshly cold pressed coconut oil, groundnut oil and sesame oil. It is an especially pleasing sight when we see a spectacular sunset with the sun as a huge ball of fire. We come back to Visalam and wonder how will we manage to go to Madurai which is said to be even hotter than Chettinad!

Dinner is served early and is a simple affair for our tired tummies. We call it a night and wake up early the next day to enjoy seconds of the excellent masala chai.

CGH Earth Visalam, Kanadukathan

Visalam was a house built by KVAL Ramanathan Chettiar for his eldest daughter, Visalakshi, more than 100 years ago. Visalam has been splendidly restored by CGH Earth keeping in mind the aesthetics of the traditional architecture of the Chettiars. The Chettiar community of this region were prosperous traders and their palatial houses are standing testaments to their sense of class. Visalam is a fine example of the Chettiar’s aesthetic sense that was grand in its conception and painstaking in its details. Visalam is a heritage Chettiar mansion preserved in time and and today it is almost like a respected museum, having preserved almost everything of its original character and interiors from the time it was built. The furniture is period in style, flawlessly crafted and made from the finest Burma teak.

Contact : Phone – +91 484 4261711, Website : www.cghearth.com/visalam
Email – contact@cghearth.com  

Chettinad region is similar to Shekhawati not only in the arid and dry weather conditions but also in the stories of its inhabitants – Nattukottai Chettiars are businessmen who made their fortunes through businesses in Southeast Asia; mostly in Burma, Malaysia and Singapore. They used to trade in timber, gems, salt and precious metals. There are about 74 villages and an estimated 15000 mansions in Chettinad in the present time boasting of the use Carrara marble Venetian chandeliers from Italy, British ornamental steelwork from Birmingham and fine Burmese teak.

Note : I stayed at Visalam on a collaboration. The words and opinions on this blog are my own, as always.

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The distance from Mussoorie to Landour is a mere 5 kms but it feels like a different world. There is poetry in every aspect of Landour; from the music of the wind through the deodar trees to the stories of the heritage structures dotting the hillsides. It has retained its unique British Cantonment flavour; with heritage Churches, circular walking paths with (almost) zero traffic. The no-new construction policy means that Landour doesn’t seem to change character even as the decades pass by.

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If I woke up in a stupor and was airdropped to Landour, it could be 2015 or 2025 and I wouldn’t be able to tell! 

We were picked up early in the morning from Dehradun ISBT and as soon as we crossed Rajpur, the cool breeze of Mussoorie soothed the May heat. And thereby we were blessed to not get stuck in a traffic jam while reaching Rokeby Manor as the pick-up car was deftly manoeuvred on gravity-defying slopes on one of the many shortcuts on the road to Landour. We were quickly ushered to our room; it was proper chilly in Landour! The weather was crisp as we loved sipping chai in the serene flowery setting of ‘The Tea Garden’.

Rokeby Manor – An integral part of Landour

Rokeby Manor was originally built in 1840 and is named after a poem written by Sir Walter Scott. Its wood and stone interiors embody Landour’s soul and charm while the modern amenities truly make the mansion an elegant boutique heritage hotel. Rokeby Manor gives guests a homely feel, and cosy Victorian fireplaces lend it an inviting and warm character.

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Rokeby Manor has changed many owners since 1840 and was also owned by Frederick ‘Pahari’ Wilson, a British soldier who acquired a legendary status in these parts!  The in-house restaurant and café – Emily’s is named after writer Emily Eden who wrote many memoirs in Landour. Rokeby Manor is full of colonial touches with renovated rooms and fine gardens overlooking the Doon valley.

Among the most memorable experiences on offer at Rokeby are – Watch the after-sunset colours while sipping on a cuppa in the Tea Garden, read a book in historical Wilson’s Chamber, savour Rokeby Sticky Toffee Pudding in Emily’s and buy a local souvenir in the shop.

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Life in Landour 

Days in Landour are spent gazing at the sky – on long walks among cozy old cottages, the evocative eeriness of the deodhar & pine trees, to see the landscape burst into colours during sunset time, and marvel at the twinkling lights of the Doon valley in the night. Sometimes one may get lucky and get an occasional view of the mighty Himalayan peaks from Lal Tibba. Landour is an apt place to take long walks, detours and purposely get lost.

Landour is best explored on foot. The walk is circular and is also referred to as the Landour Chakkar where one ends up at the starting point after completing the walk. The trail begins from Char Dukan and continues to Landour’s farthest end – Sister’s Bazaar. After the first home in Landour was established in 1827, a convalescent depot of soldier’s was established and with it the nurses’ camp, also known as sister’s bazaar. There are only 2 shops at Sister’s Bazaar, one is a small general store and another one is A. Prakash & Co.

The absence of traffic is a delight since hardly any tourists make it to Landour. Recent popularity through blogs and social media has meant the presence of a few day trippers in Landour that mostly make it to either Char Dukan or Landour Bakehouse. The absence of vehicles makes me very happy; I can walk at my own pace without worrying about the fumes that trouble my breathing pattern. The joy of exploring Landour lies entirely in walking around on foot; there are different experiences to be had on morning walks; while an evening sunset walk can reveal the famous winterline with a dazzling array of colours.

An interesting feature on the Landour chakkar walk, there are monkey-proof steel cans being used as dustbins with quotes on nature. It ensures that everyone goes back from Landour with nature conservation and cleanliness on their minds.

I noticed an acronym on a dustbin – KLEEN (Keep Landour’s Environment and Ecology Natural). Landour’s residents have adopted KEEN (Keeping the Environment Ecologically Natural), a solid-waste management programme that has been keeping the Landour Cantonment area of Mussoorie clean since 1995.

History of Landour

In the early 19th century, the Britishers moved their military sanatorium to the higher altitude hill-station of Landour. The cool air was apparently perfect for the homesick English soldiers. Landour is steeped in history and has an unmistakeable colonial charm. Many of the cottages of Landour are built in the Tudor style and one can spot names on signboards such as Ivanhoe, Kenilworth, Waverly, Woodstock, Shamrock etc.

The first home in Landour was built in 1825 by Captain Frederick Young and was named  ‘Mullingar’ after the Irish town from where Captain Young hailed from. Landour is a tiny town bathed in an old fashioned aura with colonial-era bungalows that sport slanting roofs, with brick arches and stone walls. The minimal population means that silence is the norm in Landour and the ample tree cover ensures invigorating fresh breezes.

Landour’s success lies in the fact that it is one of the very few Indian holiday destinations to have escaped massive construction & development. Since it is a Cantonment space, strict regulations ensure that no new permanent structures can be built; only old structures can be renovated. Some locals famously talk about a few celebrity houses that were taken down midway during construction.

For many decades, Landour remained an exclusive British preserve. Even the elite Indians and ruling classes were confined to Mussoorie where the Maharajas of many small and big kingdoms were encouraged to build grand summer homes in Mussoorie. Among the notable ones are the summer homes made by rulers of princely states like Alwar, Baroda, Jind, Rajpipla, Kapurthala. Most of these erstwhile summer homes have now been converted into heritage hotels.

Emily’s at Rokeby Manor 

Emily’s can be said to be the heart and soul of Rokeby Manor. One can build grand structures and design fabulous restaurants but they all count for nothing if the food served is not otherworldly good! And every meal at Emily’s becomes an occasion to cherish as an art of perfection.

Emily’s is located on the first floor of Rokeby Manor and the interiors give the feel of being in an alpine log house. There’s a variety of sitting spaces; with tables and chairs and cushions for relaxed afternoons. We chose to sit outside (4 table space in a shaded balcony) usually during the afternoons to enjoy the sunshine and the breeze. In the interiors, the highlights include interesting signboards with quirky one liners.

Emily’s buffet breakfasts are the stuff of legends. Freshly baked breads with a variety of homemade jams, butter, and cookies are laid out in ‘The Wilson Chamber’ surrounded with books. There are options for pancakes, waffles, paranthas and a whole lot of other delicacies. I found the chocolate shake to be especially good during breakfast! Emily’s used to be our favourite haunt in Landour on previous visits since at Rs. 500 per person, the breakfast is fairly priced.

Emily’s serves both continental and Indian food and even though the menu is limited, the exquisiteness lies in the perfection. I was highly impressed with the loaded baked potatoes, the mezze basket, ratatouille, risotto among other things. When I tried the Indian food, I had a newfound awe for Emily’s. I’m sure the pasta, snacks and burgers are very good too! The desserts are addictive; the Baked blueberry cheesecake was tasty without being dense and its better that I don’t dream about Emily’s special – the heavenly Rokeby sticky toffee pudding (lest I start rushing to Landour right away!).

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Landour Bakehouse

Landour Bakehouse is located at the circular loop at Sister’s Bazaar. Landour Bakehouse is a recent addition to Rokeby Manor’s offerings and was established sometime in 2013 or 2014. It has quickly become a crowd favourite as a lot of tourists from Mussoorie visit Landour Bakehouse for desserts and coffee. The interiors of this quaint bakehouse are tastefully done and some quotes and memorable one-liners are put up in the form of signboards. Landour Bakehouse reminds one of an old hill cabin and the aroma of freshly baked bread and coffee is intoxicating.

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The recipes here have been made suitable to local conditions and compiled in a book by the name of Landour Cookbook. Landour Bakehouse’s menu reflects these dishes. Among my recommended eats here are the breads, eclair, walnut pie, bread and butter pudding, crepes. The ginger lemon honey tea and hot chocolate taste best on chilly evenings. Grab one of the last tables that overlook the towering pine trees.

The Little Salon & Spa Shed

Located under a huge tree is Rokeby Manor’s salon and spa where highly trained staff offer a range of treatments; from massages to scrubs, even haircuts and facials are possible. And even though it is expensive; I would say it is absolutely value for money for the kind of top class services provided.

Stübli & The Ale House

Stübli is (was) a alpine restaurant made in a Swiss log cabin style. I was enamoured by the setting and the specialised food on my first visit in 2015. It has since been closed down (for reasons unknown, but maybe the construction laws of Landour) and does not exist in the present time.

Similarly, The Ale House is (was) a member’s only drinking space made in the manner of a British/Scottish Ale House and had wonderful interiors.

A. Prakash & Co. 

A. Prakash & Co. is perhaps the only shop in Landour! It is located on Sister’s Bazaar and is adjacent to Landour Bakehouse. It is well known for its jams, different variety of cheese and peanut butter. Eminent personalities like Ruskin Bond and Jawaharlal Nehru and his descendents have been his loyal customers. My favourites here are the marmalade, apricot jam, strawberry preserve, plum jam and the goat cheese and gouda. Their bread is also very good and one can buy to carry it back home.

Anil Prakash is the owner of A. Prakash & Co. It was established in the 1920s by his grandfather. It was bought into the limelight by Inder Prakash (Anil’s father) who learnt cheese-making and the expertise of jam making and bought a machine to make peanut butter. The most epic lines concerning A. Prakash & Co. are when Ruskin Bond remarked, ‘If Prakash’s doesn’t have it, you probably don’t need it!’

Clock Tower Café, Landour Bazaar 

The Clock Tower Café has been built in an architectural style akin to the iconic Landour Clock Tower (it was demolished a few years ago due to a shaky structure) and is located on the crowded Landour Bazaar Road. The café’s interiors are done in red-brick colour and it serves both Italian and Chinese food. The seating arrangements are casual and the corner tables have great views.

Clock Tower Café’s menu has been designed keeping in mind the choices of students that study in various boarding schools in and around Mussoorie. Therefore the decor is vibrant, complete with posters and kitschy lights in an open kitchen. I quite liked their pizzas and have also been recommended their Chinese dishes.

Char Dukan 

Around 1840, four shops were established to cater to the needs of foreigners enrolled at the Landour Language School, adjacent to St. Paul’s Church. That is how Char Dukan got its name. Today, there are about five or six shops but the area is still called Char Dukan.

Anil’s Café and Vipin’s Tip Top Tea Shop were the first ones to start serving snacks and beverages in the year 1910. Spending time at Char Dukan is a nostalgic way to see the world go by and it is also the only place in Landour where one may see a sizeable number of people in one place. My favourite eats at Char Dukan have been bun omelette, fresh waffles, pancakes washed down with immaculate ginger lemon honey tea. I’m not a maggi fan but have noticed tourists wolfing down maggi at char dukan; it must be good.

Other notable eateries in & around Landour

Café Ivy

If you must, go here only for the sunset views. Inspite of being highly recommended, Café Ivy wasn’t able to fulfil my expectations and whatever we tried on a previous visit turned out to be a failure. What Café Ivy does have is the best sunset view in all of Landour, and Mussoorie. There is indoor seating and outdoor seating; arrive around 30 minutes before sunset time to make sure you grab the right table and are ready when the show begins!

As the sun goes behind the hills, the colours in the sky begin to change – I noticed hues of orange, pink, red, gold and, maybe purple as well. Landour’s summer sunsets are good and the winter sunsets bring in more drama with a phenomena of winterline. It has been mentioned that this winterline occurrence is only seen in Mussoorie and a particular place in Switzerland.

Little Llama Café

Little Llama Café is one of the current favourites in Mussoorie and is not situated in Landour. Its owners are a married couple who moved back to their hometown Mussoorie and decided to open this cute little café. Their interiors and décor is a mix of blue and grey and has an unspoken yet welcoming feel.

I noticed on a recent visit that the original 4 table restaurant has now become a two-floor restaurant with more than 15 tables. It is best to visit Little Llama Café for lunch on a weekday to avoid crowds and traffic. I highly recommend their wood-fired pizzas.

Doma’s Inn – Café

Located close to Landour Bazaar, Doma’s Inn is a place that you can’t miss. It has a vibrant look with a painted dragon on the outside wall. On my first visit, I had thought that Doma’s Inn is a Tibetan place looking at the lights and Thangka Paintings. The interiors at Doma’s Inn Café are colourful and are full of souvenirs from across India and the world. There are many vintage bollywood posters as well.

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Doma’s Inn Café makes great momos and serves authentic Tibetan and Chinese food.

Kalsang Café for the Devil’s momos and Chick Chocolate Café for the varieties of hot chocolate are also recommended. 

Ruskin Bond 

Landour is home to a lot of celebrities; including author Ruskin Bond (this, everyone knows!), Bill Aitken, Stephen Alter, Ganesh Saili, actor Victor Banerjee, the late Tom Alter and Vishal Bhardwaj among other distinguished names. Rokeby Manor also sometimes arranges for a meet up with the most popular personality of Landour – Ruskin Bond. It is also possible to meet him at the Cambridge Book Store in Mussoorie every Saturday from 1500 hrs to 1700 hrs.

Lal Tibba

On the Landour chakkar walk, Lal Tibba is the highest viewpoint to watch the sunset in Landour. On a clear day, there are views of Himalayan peaks like Bandarpunch. Two cafés also welcome visitors to Lal Tibba and there’s a telescope installed on the rooftop of one of the cafés to enable a closer view of the Himalayan mountain ranges.

Churches of Landour

St Paul’s Church

St. Paul’s Church was built in 1839 and is primarily well-known as the place where Jim Corbett’s parents got married. It is a building done in bright yellow and has a huge bell on top of the Church. Sunday mass is a great time to visit it.

Kellogg Memorial Church

Outsiders are not allowed to enter the gates of the Kellogg Memorial Church. I was informed that sometimes Sunday Mass is held at the church but it is not possible for tourists to attend it. Hence it is better to marvel at this stone structure from afar and enjoy the tranquil environment at the crossroad.

Landour Language School 

Located in the same premises as the Kellogg Memorial Church, Landour Language School was established as a school to teach Hindi to missionaries. It remains a top institute for foreigners who wish to learn Hindi.

Jabarkhet Nature Reserve

I had first heard about Jabarkhet Nature Reserve in 2015 but had never been able to wean myself away from Landour even on subsequent visits. And when I finally made it to Jabarkhet Nature Reserve on this visit with Rokeby Manor, it turned out to be well worth the wait. It is a heartwarming place sure to delight any wildlife and nature lover. Jabarkhet is Uttarakhand’s first private nature reserve and is spread over 300 acres.

A local guide Virendra who has been part of the project since its inception, took us for a walk inside Jabarkhet Nature Reserve and shared details about the flora and fauna. There are many walking trails in the reserve and depending on the time of the day and the season Virendra can suggest which one to take. He has loads of information on plants and birds and was instrumental in us listening to the drumming of a woodpecker in the woods. I was especially happy with the pin-drop silence and pristine air.

Virendra also showed us the camera traps and the recent footage showed that a leopard and Himalayan brown bear had crossed the area in the last 3-4 days. Jabarkhet Nature Reserve is a classic model of conservation and sustainable development, especially for urban areas grappling with the need of fresh air.

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Cost for entry : INR 350 per person & Guided walk : INR 500 per person, hence it is better to go for the guided walk. 

Walks around Landour & Mussoorie

Cemetery on Camel’s Back Road

The cemetery on Camel Back Road, named after the camel-shaped rocky outcrop, is the resting place of many important souls. Among the ones resting here is Frederick ‘Pahari’ Wilson. He also briefly owned Rokeby Manor and was the inspiration behind Rudyard Kipling’s tale ‘The Man Who Would Be King’.

Sir George Everest’s House

Mussoorie was home to Sir George Everest, who was the Surveyor General of India between 1830–43. He is largely responsible for the Great Trigonometrical Survey of India that also included the measurement of the world’s highest peaks. Sir George Everest House is a whitewashed home in ruins located at the edge of a cliff near Hathipaon. Views of the Doon Valley are spectacular from here, especially during sunset. It is a nice area to walk in the bliss of nature.

Happy Valley, the first Tibetan settlement in India 

In 1959, when Tibet was occupied by China, the Dalai Lama and his followers walked across the Himalayas to reach India. Happy Valley became the first Tibetan settlement in India when Dalai Lama came here in 1959.

Interiors at Rokeby Manor – A very homely space

Rokeby Manor and the eateries; Emily’s, Landour Bakehouse are owned by Mumbai-based Mars Hospitality Group, which is run by brother and sister duo of Sanjay and Rachna Narang. Sanjay is a woodstock alumni with special attachment to Landour. Rachna Narang is an interior designer and it is her quirky sense of humour and attention to detail that has imparted oodles of character to Rokeby Manor and the entire town of Landour too!

Also check : Do yourself a favour! Go to Landour

A long weekend in Mussoorie – Explorations & Walks

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Kas was a more logical choice since it lie first on the road, and as if by providence as soon as we reached Antalya Otogar (Otogar is bus station in Turkish), there was a small bus ready to take us to Kas. The officer mentioned the ticket fare as 20 TL-Turkish Lira and we confirmed the same with other passengers. Our huge bags were kept in the luggage compartment and we were ready to roll after a hurried visit to the toilets at Antalya Otogar.

After about an hour of leaving Antalya, the road wound up the mountainside and revealed an unending view of the Mediterranean Sea. I wished that the bus wasn’t air-conditioned and would let me open the window to savour the incredibly beautiful sight of the blue water.

The bus was a run by a local operator and picked up passengers at numerous stops. After around 3-4 hours, we finally reached Kas Otogar which felt uninspiring since I had dozed off and was woken up with a jolt. No sooner had I got out of the bus, I was hit by the piercing sunshine since it was just past noon. It felt hotter than it really was, maybe due to our having spent considerable time in far colder Istanbul and freezing Cappadocia. We immediately put our #AllDayWifi to use google maps and reach the hotel. It was only a short walk away but felt very tiring due to the heat.

Kas showed a glimpse of its small town beauty when we walked from the bus station (otogar) to the hotel. The main road had umpteen open air restaurants and surprisingly the staff even called out to us to try their offerings. I had noticed the restaurant’s signboard menus with prices and was pleased to note that the eateries had reasonable rates. The hotel lane was full of artistic frames with pretty flowers hanging outside wooden doors. Most hotels (pansiyon’s) were family run establishments and they seemed to be devoid of tourists.

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We were pleased with a view of the Mediterranean sea from the room, it was quite hot though and I dozed off for a while. My headache was gone once I was up again, and a quick shower later we were out on the street searching for our lunch stop. I asked a few locals and decided to sit at a eatery serving both vegetarian and non-vegetarian food. In Turkey, freshly baked bread comes complementary with the dishes.

1 dish normally suffices for one person and is priced anywhere from 8 Turkish Liras to 20 Turkish Liras. Water is not served in restaurants and one needs to buy water bottles for the same. After a hearty meal, we went walking around Kas. Our first stop was the Antiphellos – Ancient Theatre which is a Roman Amphitheater built in 200 BC. It is a circular structure facing the Mediterranean Sea and has seating to hold around 4000 people. All in all, it was a fascinating historical sight with stunning views of the blue Mediterranean sea while the background was full of towering green mountains.

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I had spotted a cute looking lighthouse from our room and we immediately set about finding it. At the intersection of the market, a whitewashed mosque stood tall. A gaggle of travel companies advertised boat tours to the Greek island of Meis. The pier was to our right and among other popular boat tours, a visit to the sunken city of Kekova was widely advertised. We had no Greek visa and hence it made no sense to try and make that 25 Euro day trip to Meis. The lighthouse towered over the surroundings even as the sun was still shining strong.

Someone suggested that we should walk on a circular path that would enable us to explore a different part of Kas and we set out for the same. There were artistic boutiques selling dresses, Turkish cotton towels, pottery, souvenirs, carpets, soaps etc. Every second establishment was an eatery; and unlike the simple and cheap ones on the main road, these restaurants had gorgeously colourful chairs and a fancy vibe. This part of town was laid-back and geared up for tourists. A sole Dondurma shop occupied centerstage as I noticed some tourists clamouring for the ice-cream.

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Kas suddenly felt more livelier as evening descended on town. Sunsets across the sea are always pretty and the sky changed colours repeatedly. As night fell, we walked back to our accommodation fully convinced that we needed to spend more time exploring Kas. It was Diwali that day and fireworks looked dazzling in the far distance across the Mediterranean Sea. We also understood that there was a different area in Kas away from the market and with better views of the Mediterranean Sea.

Since our plan was flexible; I immediately set about finding accommodation for the next 2-3 days. The search revealed we could stay in a ‘Villa’ in an area called Kas Peninsula that was around 6-8 kms away from where we were staying. Next day, we woke up to a spectacular morning view while sitting in the breakfast area of the hotel. 4 tables had been laid out under trees surrounded by greenery while the inviting blue waters of the Mediterranean Sea beckoned in front of us.

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The platter of feta cheese, tomatoes, honey, jams, Turkish Coffee and Turkish tea, other varieties of cheese and breads made for delicious breakfast (as always). A family run place always has a warm feel and I didn’t hesitate to ask for another round of cheese and bread, with more Turkish tea. We met a kind soul when we went to ask the taxi price for dropping us on the peninsula. He helped us with the exchange from Euro to Turkish Lira(Turkish Lira); helping us bargain for a Zara Man jacket at a store, and in arranging a taxi to Kas Peninsula for 30 Turkish Lira.

We had spotted a small dolmus (shared taxi) that plied from Kas to Kas Peninsula and ferried passengers for 4 TL but taking that would have meant trouble with the bags. Therefore we first went to the taxi stand; and we were flabbergasted to know the official taxi rates. The small distance commanded a fare of more than 60 TL and we immediately went back to ask our newly-made acquaintance to ask his taxi friend to come and drop us for 30 TL. As we moved towards Kas Peninsula, the views of the Mediterranean Sea became even prettier.

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We were surprised to spot a tiny portion of white sand beach to our left and the fact that many local families were enjoying that hardly 20 metres of beach! At that moment, I quietly appreciated things that we sometimes take for granted; like the enormous coastline with beaches; in India. We couldn’t control our amazement and were totally in awe of the postcard perfect look of the villa once we were dropped at the gates. An endless expanse of blue spread in front of us; and the villa was a four storey structure in pretty off-white colour.

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The staff was excited about meeting Indian tourists (thanks bollywood) and the owner showed us the different rooms and even offered us an upgrade but we were happy to stick to our original choice. The dining area was set up beside the pool and the ambience was almost perfect for a romantic setting, including the mellow dance music that played all day. The colours were soft and pleasing to the eyes and with the aesthetic beauty of the Mediterranean Sea we felt we were living a proverbial Greek fairytale.

We had been smart enough to buy hordes of wine bottles at the wineries of Cappadocia and wasted no time in finding majestic drinking spaces in our ‘Villa.’ There was also a walkway that took us right to the waters of the Mediterranean sea, since there was no beach on the coast. The rocky cliffs shined white in the afternoon sun and the water was in a pristine shade of green, blue, turquoise and aquamarine. Classy sun-beds had been laid out in different enclosures and depending on the intensity of the sun we chose the shaded part or the alfresco sun beds.

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After a short swim in the sea, we decided to lie down and watch the sky changing colours. It was quiet and the serene setting just amplified nature’s beauty to the next level. We ambled around the various nooks and corners of the villa soaking in the prettiness and enjoying the views. The colours were even more pronounced during sunset. I could try and type a nice quote but it would be inadequate to express the magical sights in Kas across the Mediterranean Sea that day.

Since the villa was in a nice and secluded area, it didn’t make sense for us to try and head out for dinner. Also, we had assumed that since Kas Peninsula was an area full of villas and boutique hotels, there would not be any local eateries. We asked for the menu at the Villa that we were staying at so that there would be no price shocks later. There were only a few options with manageably high prices and dinner for two cost us around 60 Turkish Lira.

Fine Dining at its very best – In Kas, Turkey

In that setting, it could rival the finest fine-dine restaurant in the world. On one side, there was a never ending view of the tranquil blue waters of the Mediterranean Sea while Kas town’s harbour with a backdrop of green mountains was visible on the other side. The staff (A couple from Tblisi, Georgia) was really helpful and covered us with shawls as it got breezy and cold outside in the night. We played Indian songs on the speaker and danced happily, with our tummies happy with copious amounts of wine.

Next morning when I woke up and walked to the open air sit-out, the charming sight in front of me will be etched forever in my mind. The pink bougainvillea blooms with the blue sea, a ship floating past, all while a mellow breeze blew across Kas – it was a glorious melangé of colours. The proceedings could not have become any better until we went to the postcard perfect breakfast area of the Villa. An array of different varieties of cheese, jams, coffee, tea, olives and other delights were brought to the table by our friend from Georgia as we gobbled down the cheese and tomatoes with aplomb.

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It was decided to go walking around Kas Peninsula after what seemed like a never ending breakfast. During the day, the water of the Mediterranean Sea shimmered like stars. The weather was quite hot and we tried to find some shade wherever we could. In no time, a ride came our way and I wasted no time in flagging it down. The gentleman didn’t speak any English but was happy to drop us to Kas. As we were just about to enter Kas, the small matter of a weekend market came to view.

Locals thronged the market that looked like it had been setup only a few hours ago. One section was dedicated to vegetables and fruits sold by farmers at wholesale prices, another section comprised of dry fruit sellers. Street food vendors were doing brisk business feeding hungry passersby. I tried a glass of Ayran (Turkish buttermilk) for 5 TL that tasted a bit sour for my liking. A giant parantha-sort of dish was also being made on the pan, the lady at the counter mentioned it as gozleme which had a filling of spinach and the price for the same was 10 TL.

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And while we were roaming around, it was an inexplicable joy to stumble upon the cloth market area. There were enthusiastic sellers showcasing carpets, bed linen, towels, shirts, jackets and a whole plethora of other products of day-to-day use. It was good humour while we bargained to shop to our heart’s content. Turkish textiles are really good quality and I went berserk shopping for value-for-money buys. My best souvenir from Turkey was a bed cover / carpet for approx. 2000 Rupees. Later when we were wandering in the market, shops advertised the same carpet for more than 5000 Rupees.

We had also found a way to not exchange all the Euros into Turkish Liras by asking the sellers the prices in Euros and Turkish Liras and conveniently paying whatever exchange suited us more. It was late afternoon by the time we ended up near the boutique shops of Kas. The weather had suddenly turned stormy and a pleasant evening suddenly turned chilly. It was time to chat with the locals and finally try dondurma at the locally favourite shop. It cost us only 5 Turkish Lira each and the dondurma was out of the world tasty!

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We had not carried a jacket and were happily roaming around in shorts but now we were more than 5 kilometres away from our ‘Villa’ and had no idea about the timings of the dolmus (shared taxi). Our only aim was to reach the villa before dark.

As we stood at the dolmus bus stand, locals helped us get into the right dolmus destined for Kas Peninsula and akin to our customary ways of impromptu explorations we got down from the dolmus before reaching our destination. The walk along the Mediterranean coast watching an epic sunset easily became one of the highlights of our trip to Turkey.

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‘Life is short. Try to see as many sunsets as you can.’

Check these posts : Photo Stories from Hornbill Festival, Nagaland

Life in a Secret Village : Near Great Himalayan National Park in Himachal Pradesh

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We were tired, having just come from a small trek to Rasol. The smiling staff instantly made us feel welcome and ushered us into our royal cottage. The sight of manicured green lawns made me swoon with delight. It was drizzling and that only added to the pleasantness.

The Himalayan Village comprises of six cottages, named after various districts of Himachal Pradesh and two huge treehouse style rooms called Machans. The entire property is designed in a traditional style and is nestled in the periphery of a devdhar forest. The roaring Parvati river flows on the other side of the road and completes the fairytale. The sound is just right, not noisy and gushing, but a tranquil hum in the background. How refreshing to arrive at a place like this amid the concrete jungle that the Himalayas are fast turning into!

Read : All you need to know about Mukteshwar

Mr. Kamlesh at the reception was gracious to recommend to us the dishes for an authentic Himachali lunch while we admired the views. Each cottage has private lawns and cast-iron chairs to really make the guests feel like kings. Aesthetics of the mountains have been kept in mind and traditional Kathkuni style of architecture has been adopted (dry stacking of stone and wood without cement). The nature lover in me was pleased when clouds gathered on a nearby cliff and I could laze in the sit out while it poured outside. The interiors of every cottage are pleasing to the eye and have been mud plastered using natural colours. The attention to detail is phenomenal; be it intricately carved teak furniture and a royal looking couch, deodhar wood roof, handmade silk curtains, warm lights and bathing accessories, and the elaborate mirror in the dressing area.

Read : Rustic Luxury in Sonapani, Uttarakhand

Lunch had arrived while we were still jumping around our spacious cottage savouring the views from every window. The aroma of ‘Siddu’ and ‘Dham’ tantalised my taste buds and I almost slipped into heaven on my first bite of siddu dunked into a bowl of home made ghee. ‘Dham’ is the name given to the traditional Himachali thali. Those plates were polished off in no time and my mouth is watering sitting in Jaipur, as I think about the delicacies at The Himalayan Village in Kasol!

Read : Ten foodie delights of Manali

I was on a food high as evening came and the ethereal sky was bestowed with glorious colours, the rain having duly stopped. We went for a stroll through the walkway while the lights were being switched on and stumbled upon a temple; yes there’s a beautiful Shiva Temple in the The Himalayan Village and mellifluous sounds of a ceremony might gently waft in your ears at 10 in the morning.

There are two cozy dining areas, impeccably designed with diwans and located amid lush greens and a plethora of flowers; chief among them roses of various colours. A nice little collection of books await the traveller too. I make it a point to thank the chef for making us taste local Himachali cuisine. Dinner is delectably cooked north Indian food and the breads have been made to perfection. (P.S: I’m a fussy eater.)

We sleep soundly in nature’s lap with our bellies full. A gentle breeze blows, bringing fireflies along. Over hushed voices, they drift out twinkling just as they had come in. This place is tranquil and peaceful and completely bathed in the sound of silence.

I wake up sleepy eyed in the morning and click something on my phone. It turns out to be a masterpiece later! Clear blue skies, sunlight peering through the dense devdhar forests, the aroma of nature and petrichor after the rain. Could I really ask for more? Turns out I could!! The foodie in me was having a jolly good time with all the goodies on offer. Breakfast included organic honey made on-site, in addition to peach and apple jam. The fresh peach and apricot juice (fruits picked straight from the trees) was heavenly with chhole bhature & gobi paranthas (my favourite).

Read : Binsar through my eyes

We were shifted to the scenically perched Kullu Machan for an even more royal experience. It was a bigger cottage, designed like a tree house and aromatic too having been made entirely of devdhar wood. We behaved like excited kids, opening all the windows and clicking pictures of the birds eye view of the resort.

There’s a balcony to sit and laze while the world goes by. We were enchanted and danced with the staff when they put on a rare performance of Himachali folk dance for us in the evening. It is a subtle form of dance with slow movements and Himachali songs are so pleasing to the ears. Sheer delight to remember those songs with much fondness. The night from our balcony held breathtaking views of the stars above and the entire resort twinkled in perfectly placed lantern lights.

This place deserves to be among the various lists of top places to stay in India for letting travellers have a real taste of Himachal Pradesh and keeping the traditional aspects in mind including the use of mud, stone and wood in the construction. Next time instead of heading to Manali; think about heading here and forgetting your worldly troubles in the lap of nature and amazing hospitality. Their staff is worth emulating, always with a smile on their faces dressed in impeccable white and a Himachali cap.

Read : The Havelis of Shekhawati

You feel happy when minute details are taken care of. Study table, eight inch mattresses, sofas that sink in, curtains that let in just the right amount of light. The best part is that the owner, Aman Sood is involved in the day-to-day activities of the resort and makes it a point to meet the guests personally once or twice a day. He and his wife took seven long years to painstakingly create this work of art. Its a pleasure to listen to him while he imparts his know-how with bits of culture thrown in about the resort. I am insanely happy to experience this calm away from the madness of Kasol.

I was really living a dream. I could get used to this life. Fresh air in the mountains and food that leaves you feeling energised in my favourite state in India. Himachal Pradesh really feels like home. I hope someday I can settle down here for good. The days passed by in a whiff but instead of saying goodbye I say ‘au revoir’; the French expression that means “Goodbye, till we meet again.” I know I am going to come here someday when its covered in snow. My heart does a little dance visualising that.

Home is where the heart is. Mine has always been in the mountains.

Read : The fairytale of Gushaini & GHNP

Practical Details 

To Reach : Approximately 600 Kilometres from Delhi. Take the Manali route (NH-21) till Bhuntar and then a right to Manikaran. The Himalayan Village lies on the right side of the road roughly 7 kilometres before Kasol.

Spa : Complete with massages and aromatherapy, and acupressure along with steam bath, sauna heat bath and jacuzzi.

Activities : Angling, nature walks, jungle incursions, orchard picnics, nearby treks, mountain cycling, rock climbing, rappelling, rafting and jeep safaris are among the many activities that can be organised. Barbecue and bonfire can be organised on request. There’s a well stocked bar with a vintage collection.

The Himalayan Village practises eco-tourism, responsible tourism, and a pet friendly property. Agri tourism with a tour of the fruit orchards nearby can be organised too.

Disclaimer : I was at The Himalayan Village, Doonkhara on an invitation. All the views shared here are my own and completely unbiased.

Also check : The Shimla of Old : Life at Chapslee

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There was a chill in the air as it was the first week of January. I dragged my bags across the Ram Jhula to arrive at Parmarth Niketan Ashram before darkness descended. I was almost denied entry at the ashram but I guess fate had a role to play when a kind man inside the office of Parmarth Niketan gave me the keys to the room.

Imagine yourself sitting in peace on the banks of the Ganges (or holy Ganga for the purists) with a thin veil of mist shrouding the evening; listening to the soothing sounds of gurgling waters & add to that the mellifluous chants of the soulful Ganga Aarti with the Himalayas in the far distance. Spirituality had not yet had its tryst with me due to the mundane affairs of daily life. As they say ’When the student is ready, the teacher appears.’ My moment had arrived then.

Closing your eyes and getting swayed in the chants of the aarti with the heartrending voice of the guru is possibly the most divine experience anyone can have. It is an indescribable happy high & enlightened feeling, like an unending crescendo of uplifting trance! I wished the Ganga Aarti would never end; for it was like being brought back to earth from heaven itself! The meditation class proved to be a tough nut to crack with most of us having never tried it earlier.

On the first day, everybody had smiles on their faces & tears streaming down their eyes by the end of a 30 minute session. It was quite surprising to know that this was a sort of inner cleansing. Come second week, natural detox had resulted in zen-like inner peace. I was joined by a handful of other folks in Parmarth Niketan; mostly foreigners from different countries. It was an eye-opener to have unhindered conversations about life as travellers bared their hearts to strangers.

I had been humming Scorpions’ ‘Send me an angel’ on the repeat mode since Christmas. The universe responded and how! There I met Nicole from Copenhagen and had an instant soul connection. When we parted ways, she drew me a tattoo & said ‘remember each other till it lasts.’ Fellow travellers from across the world had become everlasting friends.

Rishikesh literally means ‘Lord of Senses’ (Sanskrit translation) & is rightfully called the ‘yoga capital of the world’. Ganga River is the holiest river for Hindus and it flows right through Rishikesh.

Why is Rishikesh so popular among hippies & travellers?

Rishikesh shot to prominence in the late 1960s when The Beatles visited the Maharishi Mahesh Yogi’s ashram for meditation & wrote most parts of ‘The White Album’ at the Ashram. Subsequently, hordes of westerners followed their footsteps and came searching for peace & enlightenment to gave birth to the offbeat hippie holiday trail.

Expert Tip from 2014 : To get inside The Beatles Ashram, jump in from the side walls, as the gates are usually closed due to it lying within the Rajaji National Park. The lucky ones stumble upon impromptu jam sessions held in the hall known as ‘The Cathedral’. Explore an array of graffiti on the walls made by travellers from around the world. Thank me later!

At the ashram; Sasha from Kazan in Russia was trying to get a sim card but was having a lot of trouble doing so due to the language barrier. I helped him in getting it but would strongly recommend reading this ‘How to get a Sim card in India‘ post by Rachel.

Read : Beatleas Ashram in Rishikesh – What to expect?

2 weeks at Parmarth Niketan in the non-touristy part of Rishikesh had transformed me from being sick; to fit as a fiddle. It was time to head northward to the high Himalaya and ‘reclaim my life’. The next leg of my journey would take me to McLeodganj and then to see more snow in Manali.

As Rumi says : ‘And you. When will you begin that long journey into yourself?’

I knew I had begun mine.

Have you ever had a life changing travel experience?

Practical Information : 

Buses from Delhi to Haridwar/Rishikesh are very frequent and run from the ISBT Kashmere Gate in Delhi. Parmarth Niketan Ashram is located on the other side of the Ganga river in Rishikesh. It is best to reserve accommodation in advance at Parmarth Niketan Ashram as it has become known as the best Yoga and Meditation Ashram in Rishikesh and sought after over the years. You can connect with them on email or by calling the phone number mentioned on the website.

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