Read : The Goodness of Strangers in Kerala

Anecdotes, photographs and a travel guide to Kochi :

Introduction and History of Fort Kochi or Fort Cochin

Most travellers choose Kochi as the first stop to the popular tourist state of Kerala; with convenient flight connections from all big cities in India. Fort Kochi (or Cochin) has the proud distinction of being the oldest and first European settlement in India, and retains a charming and bucolic feel. This ancient town’s complex history is reflected in a medley of distinct Indo-European architectural styles. Fort Kochi boasts of a classic mixture with Portuguese, Dutch, British and traditional Kerala houses adorning the streets of Malabar’s crown jewel. It was a massive surprise for me to come across Gujarati signboards advertising mithai walas in Mattancherry!

In the present day, Kochi (or Cochin, as it was known earlier) comprises of the following areas : Mattancherry, Fort Kochi and the commercial hub of the city; Ernakulam.

Among the plethora of sights and experiences in Kochi include 

• Mattancherry’s warehouses filled with Kerala’s much priceless spices like pepper; jostling with new age street art.
• The timeless Jew Town, with the oldest Synagogue in the Commonwealth and antique shops selling secret finds. 
• Fort Kochi for a Kathakali performance, choose your fresh seafood with a sunset cruise and feel good about life! 

History of Kochi or Cochin

The Portuguese came looking for pepper and arrived in Kochi in the year 1500 AD. They constructed Fort Immanuel (that signifies the fort in Fort Kochi) and St. Francis’ church; and transformed Kochi from a tiny fishing hamlet to a bustling town. The Dutch then took over and ruled Fort Kochi for more than 100 years, from 1663 until 1795. The British took over from the Dutch and only left with India’s Independence in 1947.

An intriguing fact is that Fort Kochi was a multi-ethnic society even before the Europeans arrived. According to legend – St. Thomas, The Apostle arrived in Kochi in 52 AD and gave Kochi its first Syrian Orthodox Christians. The Jews arrived in 70 AD, as a result of the First Jewish – Roman War’s siege of Jerusalem. 

Kochi was formed with a stroke of luck in 1341 AD – A flood created a safe natural port in Fort Kochi that was seen as an alternative to Muziris – which was the main harbour on the Malabar Coast. The royal family moved to Kochi from Muziris in 1405 firmly establishing it on the map.

Must Visit Sights & Experiences in Kochi 

Chinese Fishing Nets 

The Chinese fishing nets were introduced to Kochi by traders from the court of Kublai Khan, sometime between the 14th & 15th century. These humongous nets are set up on bamboo poles and require four men to control them. They remain a grand reminder of Kochi’s historic trade ties with the far East. The best time to watch them in action is from close to the Vasco da Gama Square in Fort Kochi at sunset time. Strolling around the Chinese fishing nets is free but if you want to see the fishermen in action, a tip is appreciated and they will explain the functioning.

Mattancherry Palace

Despite being built by the Portuguese in the 16th Century; Mattancherry Palace is more commonly known as the Dutch Palace. The Portuguese gifted it to the Raja of Kochi as a token of thanks for the trading rights granted to them. When the Dutch took over Fort Kochi in the year 1663, they remodelled the Mattancherry Palace in an extensive manner and the name ‘Dutch Palace’ has stuck since then. 

It looks unassuming from the outside but hides a wealth of riches in its two storey interiors! The vivid murals in some of the rooms are excellent examples of Kerala’s hardly known school of painting. The prized collection includes coronation robes of past Rajas, palanquins, Dutch maps of Old Cochin and royal family portraits, among other things.

Paradesi Synagogue in Jew Town

Although Kochi’s first Jewish settlers arrived in 52 AD; the Paradesi Synagogue was built more than 1,500 years later. Nondescript from the outside, one might entirely miss the Synagogue in the jumble of buildings in Jew Town! Paradesi Synagogue is the oldest active Synagogue in the Commonwealth and the Jewish community of Cochin has the distinction of being among the oldest Jewish communities in the world. (Paradesi = foreigner)

Visitors are only allowed to click photographs of the 18th century clock tower in the outdoors. Indoor photography is strictly not allowed and that means we must gaze longer at the incredibly beautiful blue and white ceramic floor tiles. These Cantonese tiles are very unique as every tile is hand-painted, all 1100 of them! Also notice the immaculate Belgian chandelier hanging from the ceiling. Old Torah scrolls with crowns presented by the Maharajas of Travancore and Cochin are also kept in the Paradesi Synagogue.

Only a handful of Jews remain in Kochi (around five-six), as most of them migrated to Israel in the 1940s. Prayer ceremonies are held at the Paradesi Synagogue when the minyan (minimum number of 10 men required for traditional Jewish public worship) is met.

St. Francis Church 

Originally built by the Portuguese in the early 16th Century, St. Francis Church is India’s oldest European church. Vasco da Gama was buried here when he died in Kochi; although his body was later moved to Lisbon in 1538 AD.

St. Francis Church, Kochi & India’s Colonial History

Santa Cruz Basilica 

The stunningly beautiful Santa Cruz Basilica in Kochi is one of the finest examples of Roman Catholic churches in entire India. It was built by the Portuguese in the early years of the 16th Century. The architectural style of the Santa Cruz Basilica is Gothic and I recommend morning / evening time for the best light for photography.  

Hill Palace at Tripunithura

I must thank Johann for taking me to this particular place as I was not aware of Tripunithura at all. The Hill Palace of Tripunithura has now been converted into a museum. The 17th Century wooden mandapa (hall) featuring carvings of episodes from the Ramayana is a classic exhibit. The annual festival held at the Shri Poornathrayeesa Temple in October-November on the way to the Hill Palace is a grand celebration.

Spices in Kochi

Even though the cacophonous trade around spices in Kochi has reduced considerably these days, the sorting warehouses still exist and function like they have done for hundreds of years. In Kerala, pepper is still sometimes referred to as black gold and when you are visiting, it makes sense to buy some spices straight from the source! Kochi International Pepper Exchange on the Jew Town Rd in Mattancherry was the place where you could until quite recently witness the bidding of different varieties of pepper; but the bidding is now done electronically. Among other spices; there is fine quality ginger, cloves, mace, star anise, nutmeg, cardamom. 

Traditional Kerala Cuisine 

Kochi is an excellent place to try the mind-boggling variety of traditional food of Kerala. Among the recommended dishes are : Puttu served with Kadala curry – a fine rice powder mixed with grated coconut steamed in a mini cylinder served with mildly spicy chickpea stew. Idi Appam and Kerala style egg curry – String hoppers with and spice rich tomato egg curry. Appam and vegetable stew – steamed rice pancakes served with vegetable curry in coconut milk. Malabar Parotta paired with numerous meat dishes. 

Traditional feast (Sadhya), is a multi-course meal extravaganza served on a banana leaf. There’s rice, ghee, variety of stews and curries like sambar, rasam, pachadi, appalam, avial and the last course is the sweet delicacy payasam. 

Kathakali : Kerala’s Classical Art

When in Kochi, visitors have a great chance to attend Kerala’s well known classical art form – kathakali. Kathakali combines various theatrical and performance elements, and is said to have developed during the 16th century. Traditionally, Kathakali performances are held for entire nights during festivals. In Kochi, however, a number of Kathakali performances are held for tourists in the Fort Kochi area and there is a reasonable fee for the 1-2 hour show.  

Sunset Cruise 

Sunset cruise time in Kochi is when the sun casts beautiful orange hues in the sky and a mellow breeze blows. There are numerous companies offering sunset cruises and tickets can be booked at the jetty counter in Fort Kochi. 

Dutch Cemetery

It was an unplanned stop when I came across the closed Dutch Cemetery on a walk in Fort Kochi. The Dutch Cemetery was established in 1724 and is closed to visitors unless you can grab hold of the caretaker! The tombstones at the Dutch Cemetery are said to be the an authentic record of the hundreds of Europeans (both Dutch and English) who lived and died here during the colonial rule of Kochi.

Where is the ‘fort’ in Fort Kochi? – Fort Immanuel 

Fort Immanuel was built by the Portuguese in the 16th century, and is the Fort after which Fort Kochi was named. It was completely destroyed by the Dutch and the British. In the present day, only the remnants of a few walls can be seen on a walk from the Vasco Da Gama square in Fort Kochi.

Bolgatty Palace 

Bolgatty Palace was built in 1744 and has the distinction of being among the oldest Dutch palaces outside of The Netherlands built by the Dutch. It lies on Bolgatty Island which is accessible by ferry.

Cherai Beach

Cherai Beach is about 30 kms from Fort Kochi. The best way to reach here is via the ferry from Fort Kochi to Vypin Island and then take a short bus ride to reach Cherai Beach. The sunset at Cherai Beach is especially beautiful. 

Kochi Muziris Biennale

Every two years, the Kochi-Muziris Biennale is held in Kochi. It is one of the largest art exhibitions in India; and has resulted in some fine art on display. 

Street Art 

The entire Fort Kochi area is full of vibrant street art, and is best explored on an unplanned walk in the tiny nooks and crannies. The graffiti with interesting themes and messages is refreshing and instrumental in bringing the old buildings to life. 

Old Kochi Heritage Walk

Chinese fishing nets, a Jewish synagogue, Kathakali performance, a ruined Portuguese Fort, Spice markets, India’s first European church and 17th Century Dutch homes can all be found on the Old Kochi Heritage walk.

Start walking from Vasco da Gama Square, where you can see the cantilevered Chinese fishing nets lining the shore, then stroll along the Church Road to reach St. Francis Church. Keep walking to see the signboard for the Dutch Cemetery Road, passing the cemetery on your right, and the crumbling walls of Fort Immanuel. Continue the walk to reach Bastion Street and follow the signboards to gaze at the stunning Santa Cruz Basilica.

Among the old colonial houses to be seen on the Old Kochi heritage walk for the blend of architecture are Thakur House, the Jewish Koder House (run as a heritage hotel), Pierce Leslie Bungalow, Ballard Bungalow, Bastion House built to guard the harbour on the old Dutch Fort’s Stromberg Bastion and Malabar House. Also worth a look is Bishop’s Bungalow for the Indo-Portuguese museum. All these old colonial houses are located in Fort Kochi and are accessible on the walk.

A Day in Kochi

Start the day with the Old Kochi Heritage Walk; breakfast at Kashi Art Cafe for excellent coffee and cakes. Head to Mattancherry via a rickshaw to visit the Mattancherry Palace or Dutch Palace and also the Paradesi Synagogue. Also peruse the antique shops and some of the spice shops as well. Enjoy lunch at the local favourite Paragon or Kayees Rahmatullah Café on the Gujarati road in Mattancherry. Spend the evening at Tripunithura Palace and back to Fort Kochi for dinner at the Old Harbour Hotel.

Where to eat in Kochi?

Among the best local recommendations are Paragon in Edappally, Kayees Rahmatullah Café for Biryani. In Fort Kochi, David Hall Gallery & Café, Kashi Art Cafe for coffee and café food while Brunton Boatyard, Pepper House and 1788 (restaurant at Old Harbour Hotel) are all classic fine-dine restaurants.

How to explore Kochi?

It is best to take the pleasures of Fort Kochi by walk as all the sights are accessible by foot and the distances are small. For longer distances; app based taxi services like ola, uber, cab be used. Autos and local buses are easily available too. A unique way to explore Kochi is by ferry. 

Ferry : The ferries are a cheap way to get around Kochi’s main areas considering the traffic at rush our. Regular government ferries ply from Fort Kochi and the different islands and areas are all well connected by ferries as it is the mode of transport that the locals use.

When is the best time to visit Kochi?

July to September is monsoon time and thats when Kochi is at its prettiest in the bountiful rain and greenery. November to February is commonly the most favoured time when the temperatures are bearable. Hotel prices are at their highest in the peak winter season.

Join Travelshoebum on Twitter, Instagram and Facebook.

I made the journey from Kurseong to Mirik by shared sumo locally called as Syndicate in this region. In Mirik, I stayed at Haamro Ghar Homestay and I highly recommend them if you are planning to visit Mirik. Sumendu Lake is the highlight of this tiny town that is spread around the lake that also boasts of a monastery.

A Journey in Photographs of Two Days in Mirik

Join Travelshoebum on Twitter, Instagram and Facebook.

Shashur in the local language literally translates to – ‘in the blue pines’. I would come to know about the adage when I reached there; Shashur Monastery is indeed surrounded by a small forest of blue pine trees and is reachable by a 3 km uphill walk from Keylong – which is preferred by the locals. For folks travelling by car, there is also a 5 km long motorable road to reach Shashur Monastery.

It was afternoon and clouds had just started gathering in the sky, and since there was a road that led to Shashur Monastery – I was more or less confident (or rather, hopeful) of being able to hitch a ride. I began my day in Keylong and opted to head to Tandi Bridge and Beeling village in the morning after a quick breakfast at one of the eateries in the bazaar.

Also read : Othang Gompa – The Crown Jewel of Pattan Valley, Lahaul

Over the last 2-3 days, one thing had led to another and as I visited one monastery, I was being guided by the locals for exploring other monasteries in Lahaul. I climbed to visit the Yardong / Yordong Monastery in Beeling near the HRTC workshop close to the Tandi bridge but was mildly disappointed when the doors were closed and there was nobody to show me around the cave-sort of monastery. However, I felt a tad unlucky when I met a monk while climbing down who said that he had the key to open the doors.

Read : Othang Gompa – The Crown Jewel of Pattan Valley, Lahaul

Anyhow, I started walking back to Keylong and someone in Beeling village suggested that I take a quick look at the ‘Jabjes‘ in the fields. Jabjes are the holy footsteps of the lama embedded in rock and I was happily surprised to be shown a rock with a clear foot imprint. Since it was the month of July, we were roughly in the middle of the summer in Lahaul Valley and the fields were awash with potato blooms. I enjoyed clicking the surreal landscapes and thanked the gentleman for bringing me to the fields.

After a few minutes of excitement of clicking Lahaul Valley’s rich summer landscapes with Keylong in the background, I decided to resume my walk back to Keylong.

It was around 2 pm in the afternoon and I went to the room to rest for a while and perhaps eat something (can’t really remember). At about 3-30 in the afternoon, I was unsure of what I wanted to do and once I got back to the road I saw the signboard of Shashur Monastery directly in front of me! It seemed to be a cue; since Shashur Monastery was one of the prominent monasteries in Lahaul Valley and there was a motorable road (dirt road) that went all the way to the top. I had decided about visiting it on one of the days when I was in Keylong and not exploring the other monasteries.

I made sure of refilling my water bottle before beginning the hike and asked the passersby for the best directions to reach Shashur monastery. Some locals told me that even though the motorable road would lead me to Shashur Monastery, the distance would be about 5-6 kms while there was a shortcut that would take about 1.5 hours for the 3 km distance on foot.

I was keen on hearing more about the shortcut and they told me that the shortcut would be a sharp ascent and I would keep meeting the road after every few bends. The trail itself was well defined and I was told to find the next shortcut very close to where the previous shortcut had ended.

I started on the path and within a few minutes lost my way because I was unable to find the shortcut. Nevertheless I continued walking on the road till I came across the next shortcut and was able to follow the aforementioned trail. After covering some distance, the path duly came in the midst of blue pine trees.

The shortcuts were quite steep and sometimes had a water canal flowing past and it so happened that I slipped and ended up falling near one of the canals. Thankfully, only my jeans was soiled and the camera had been saved. I felt a little cold with the fall but thankfully Lahaul’s arid air meant that I would be dry in no time. I was hoping to get a ride in one of the cars headed to the monastery since I was always in vicinity of the road but funnily enough no car came and I continued walking along the uphill trail.

Read : Khangsar, Kwaring, Sarang, Kolong – Exploring Lahaul Valley

Like all other things in life, I began to enjoy the hike and the views as I climbed higher; the sun didn’t seem harsh anymore and the yellow roofed Shashur Monastery started peeping from among the blue pines. I crossed an ethereal looking patch of ‘sia’ (or wild roses) that clearly stood out with the tantalising pink blooms.

A sort of storm seemed to be brewing in the distance and the Chandra river (or was it Bhaga!) shined whenever a sliver of sunshine fell on it. The green fields lit up and it presented a sight as bucolic as it could be. I reached Shashur Monastery after walking through a large stretch among the juniper trees and had all but forgotten about my soiled jeans that was dirty but drying rapidly at that time.

There was some sort of construction work going on near the chorten outside the monastery and one of the labours from Bihar indicated to me the entrance to the main monastery and I was glad when a young lama offered to show me around the different structures.

There was a signboard placed right in front of the monastery noting that : Shashur Gompa was founded by Lama Deva Gyatsho of Zanskar in the 17th Century and belongs to the Drukpa Sect. He was a missionary of Nawang Namgyal, who was the king of Bhutan. There was a small gompa here at the same spot before the bigger monastery was established by Deva Gyatso. Deva Gyatso stayed at the monastery till his death.

Shashur Monastery is quite big with a number of rooms and has a number of valuable thangkas with one thangka over fifteen feet in length. There are also well-preserved wall paintings depicting all the 84 mahasiddhas of Buddhism. In the month of July, Cham (masked dances) are performed by the monks in the monastery and the festival is called Tsechu, which is the most popular Cham festival in Lahaul.

The lama was kind and interesting and we ended up chatting and he allowed me to go to the different parts of the monastery and also opened a number of doors that were locked. The weather had started worsening and I was glad when he offered tea. The extra time had enabled me to notice the intricate bells (dorje) and I was able to click a few pictures with the mountains in the background.

The carvings on the door of the monastery are intricate and a nice breeze started blowing as soon as we had finished the tea. I noticed that a number of threatening dark clouds had gathered in the horizon and was hoping that the rain would stay away, at least until I had made it back to Keylong.

One of the doors of Shashur Monastery was incredibly beautiful with a delightful colour pattern along-with Buddhist designs. The lama and I made conversations in the open air balcony that had a vantage view of both sides of the valley. If memory serves me right, the lama was from Bhutan and I was quite surprised to know that it is customary for all serving lamas at Shashur Monastery to be from Bhutan. I was ecstatic when the sun peeked out from among the clouds lending a glorious light to the proceedings. He told me to try and attend the masked dance festival Tsechu at Shashur Monastery someday.

Just when I had thought I would encounter no other visitors, a lady tourist came in a taxi / cab and since there was no harm in asking for a ride back, I did and to my astonishment the car sped with the local Lahauli driver even before I could blink. I had a good laugh about this with the young lama and he said that human beings on earth are not alike and on this note, I took his leave since I would take an hour to make the long trudge back to Keylong.

Join Travelshoebum on Twitter, Instagram and Facebook.

The shared taxi stands in this part of the world are called Syndicate! Remember the famous Bipul Chhetri song, Syndicate (Kalimpong to Siliguri song). I’ve decided to keep Darjeeling as the last destination on my trip and therefore take a ticket for Kurseong. Kurseong and Darjeeling both lie on the same route and the road bifurcation for Kurseong comes at Ghoom, before reaching Darjeeling. The ticket prices for both Kurseong and Darjeeling are the same.

Also check :

Kalimpong – A Travel Guide

A Misty Day in Kurseong

The locals informed me that shared taxis to Kurseong were also available, but they were few and I was better off going in a Darjeeling bound taxi and get down at Ghoom from where another shared taxi would have to be found. So with Kurseong (and not Darjeeling) as my ultimate destination in mind, I sat in the shared sumo. The weather is quite sunny and humid in Kalimpong when we leave.

The shared taxi stand in Kalimpong is surrounded by nice looking old and pretty buildings. I asked the locals about their history and they told me that most of them are owned by Rajasthani businessmen.

Kalimpong to Darjeeling

At first, the road descends endlessly and we reach Teesta Bazaar; a bustling town with the river flowing beside the market. It is very dry, hot and dusty here when we cross the town. I am overjoyed to look out of the window and enjoy the fresh air of the forest. The route is very scenic after crossing Teesta Bazaar when we begin our ascent. The shared taxi stops near Lopchu for breakfast and we are in the midst of tea gardens.

It was still sunny as we approached Lopchu, and the greenery of the tea gardens was alluring with the mountains visible in the far distance. A brief layer of mist blows past us on the road as we get down from the sumo! The eateries all look identical in Lopchu Bazaar and most probably even have the same menu for breakfast! It seemed to be a popular and fixed stop on this route to Darjeeling. Thats how it usually is in the mountains, the shared taxi stops are fixed for specific places.

I am super hungry and choose to go to a small eatery where there are only 4 tables and the menu is a simple poori sabji for breakfast. The vegetable was a curry of potatoes in a tomato gravy and the lady was happy to fry some fresh pooris for me! The elderly gentleman in the shared taxi also chose to eat in the same eatery and we relished our food and complimented ourselves for a good choice of place!

Just after crossing Lopchu Bazaar, the road and surroundings started getting misty and foggy and the entire landscape started getting covered with clouds. We pass by the stunning Tukdah forest and I noted down the name in my memory to come back someday. The road was surrounded by towering pine and deodhar trees and the shades of greenery around were pleasing to the eyes. After all, we are in the middle of the monsoon in August and the views are bound to be stupendous.

As the road climbed higher, the surroundings kept getting prettier. Views of the far off mountains were visible as we crossed a town by the name of Lamahatta. I could spot a few signboards indicating homestays and also the Lamahatta Eco Park. The locals suggested that if I had the time, then the park is highly recommended for a hike which ends at a surreal and misty lake with great views. Others also chimed in and said if I don’t have a fixed plan, then I must surely come and stay at Lamahatta for a few days as the homestays are nice in the region.

A glimpse of the snow clad mountain range of Kanchenjunga is also visible from Lamahatta and while I contemplated about altering my plans, I kept this region in mind for a visit next time. The shared taxi business sounded complicated and I decided to just stick to visiting Kurseong and Darjeeling this time! It started raining as we were nearing Ghoom, from where the road to Kurseong bifurcated. It is a surreal sight as the misty road, fog, rain and the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway (DHE) came into view.

The shared sumo driver recommended me to stay on in the shared taxi since my backpack would get all wet if I got down at Ghoom. It was raining quite heavily and the carrier on top of the sumo had all our bags; the sumo guy had put a plastic tarpaulin over it to make sure the bags were shielded from the rain. He reasoned that the shared taxi fare to both Kurseong and Darjeeling was the same and that I could go to Kurseong after staying in Darjeeling.

I considered the circumstances and understood what he was saying had a point and that it was better to continue to Darjeeling in the rain. He also mentioned that Kurseong is closer to Bagdogra and I had my flight from Bagdogra at around 3 pm after 4-5 days so it made more sense to go to Kurseong later. So, with no fixed plan I nodded to the other passengers who were ecstatic that I was continuing to Darjeeling and that they wouldn’t have to wait!

Funnily enough, it stopped raining as we were nearing the shared taxi stand on the Hill Cart Road of Darjeeling. The time is around noon. There was just some mist interspersed with periods of sunshine. I spotted the YMCA Youth Hostel building just before reaching the shared taxi stand and wondered if it was a good idea to stay there. I had no idea where I was going to stay but was aware that it is off season in the month of August. There is no long weekend as such on the days when I am there and I am confident of finding a nice place to stay in Darjeeling.

I google to search some homestays near the main mall road in Darjeeling and start the long walk from the Hill Cart Road to the Mall road. Darjeeling appears to be a city with haphazard construction and I am amazed to notice the crowds. I keep walking and asking the locals for directions to the Mall Road; most of the walk passes through narrow lanes and uphill shortcuts.

I come across various markets along the steep uphill hike. There are shops on the street selling bags, woollen clothes etc. The weather has become sunny and humid after we reached Darjeeling and that doesn’t make things easier for me. I am wearing my jackets and sweating on the walk. I come across a beautiful old Church and reach one corner of the Mall Road. It is about 1 pm, I am already tired and have no idea where I am going to find a reasonable place to stay.

Hotel/Homestay on Mall Road, Darjeeling

The Mall Road is usually a expensive area but since it is the month of August, I am hopeful of finding a reasonable and nice place to stay. I spot some cheap looking hotels but even those have a room price of INR 1500. Upon asking some locals, they guide me to a single room in one of the homes near the hotels. The room is spacious, has a geyser, sitting space but is totally dark and has no source of natural light. The guy is offering it to me for 500 INR but I decide against it.

There are live musical performances currently being held just opposite the hotel lane, collecting donations for Kerala Floods. There is a raised platform and this venue is quite close to the Mahakal Market. There is singing and dancing and it feels so interesting that I stop my search for a homestay and just stand there and enjoy the performance for some time. It also gives me a chance to keep my heavy backpack aside and relax for a bit.

I decide to keep walking and find a hostel online, but they have no rooms available. Their dormitory option is quite expensive at Rs. 700-800 per bed. I walk, walk, walk and reach a circular area on the mall road and come across a tiny lane that leads to a shady looking area. I take the left turn and check out some reasonably priced hotels. The area itself is shady to the core; it is very dirty and smelly on the streets. The street sellers inform me that this area is a cheap staying place for the Bengali tourists.

I have zeroed in on one particular homestay and have turned on the directions in google maps. I cross the very old and heritage building of Planter’s Club to my left. The Darjeeling Planter’s Club was built in 1879 and is one of the oldest clubs in India (or maybe in all of Asia). I check that it has an affiliation with Jai Club of Jaipur (of which I am a member) but alas the Darjeeling Planter’s Club is currently undergoing renovation and is closed. I also cross a taxi counter advertising shared rides to all the various viewpoints in town!

The area that I am walking in seems to be the best part of the Mall Road and I cross Keventer’s, Glenary’s and other recommended places to eat. There is fabulous graffiti on the walls as well and I spot a regal looking Tibetan homestay with traditional designs. I went upstairs to see the rooms and it turns out to be an incredibly beautiful place but is highly priced at 3500 INR. There is also a Tibetan Museum and handicraft gallery on the ground floor and I make a note to visit it in peace later when I have figured my homestay plans.

The homestay is located in a narrow by-lane and I climb 3-4 floors to reach it. Phew, I am so tired that sweat is trickling down my brow and my tee-shirt is dripping with sweat. I am therefore, relieved with the generosity of the homestay owner who asks me to step inside the home and sit down for a cup of tea. It is nice and cool in his home and very comfortable in the shade with the fan running. I relax for a bit hoping that he has a room for me. It comes as a surprise when he tells me that his last sleeping space was just booked online.

He gives me a cup of tea, tells me to cool off the sweat and just feel at home. I am very happy with his kindness and tell him I have walked from the shared taxi stand in search of a homestay! He tells me there was a shorter but more uphill way of coming here directly, although it is a good way to see Darjeeling on a walk. I tell him that I needed help with finding a homestay as I really didn’t want to stay in a hotel in Darjeeling. I also told him I’d prefer a homestay nearby since I was utterly exhausted.

Hearing about this, he wracked his brains and came up with a suggestion. One Joshi Homestay that was hardly five minutes walk from his home. He also called the lady owner there (Anjana Pradhan) and told her that I would be coming to her homestay in some time. I was glad even though he had told me that Joshi Homestay might be expensive at 1000-1200 INR per day. His own prices were quite reasonable at 500 INR per person. I shared some Kalimpong cheese (that I was carrying) with him for his generosity and thanked him profusely.

I start walking and spot some pretty graffiti on the walls while walking to Joshi Homestay. The path for the homestay bifurcated from the mall road, and it was a steep uphill 2 minute walk after that. There were other hotels visible to the right side of the path, but I had been told that Joshi Homestay is on the left. I even asked the price at one of the hotels in case the Joshi Homestay arrangement did not work out.

Joshi Home, Darjeeling

I spotted the signboard for Joshi Home and walked inside to meet Anjali Pradhan (a middle aged lady running the homestay) and her husband Hemant Pradhan. The family home was on the lower floor (1st floor) and the interiors are very artistically designed. I see a small kid in the house, he is the grandson and their son Nikhil is a mountaineer and trekking guide. There’s also a cute dog, the name of whom I’ve forgotten.

Anjali ma’m shows me to the room on the 2nd floor, the entire floor is done in beautiful wooden interiors, has a grand bookshelf, and a very pretty and airy room with a cosy bed, cute pillows and stunning bed linen. There was another room and an open terrace while the bathroom was common and spotlessly clean. My happiness knows no bounds when she says the price is fixed at 750 per person including breakfast. I immediately confirm my stay for 2-3 days.

There are porcelain pots and knick-knacks as decoration in the room. I thank my stars for meeting the gentleman and for finding Joshi Homestay. I thank Anjali Aunty and chat with her and Hemant Uncle and present them with a bottle of Timbur wine that I had procured in Dzongu. He thanks me wholeheartedly and keeps it as medicine as timbur wine is meant to be used in small quantities and is extremely good for the body.

The homestay room is a 3 bedded one but belongs all to myself since there is no one else staying in the room right now. There is another guy from close to Kolkata staying in another room. He is also the only person staying there. Hemant Uncle’s room is also located on the second floor and he sits in the lobby. There is 1 bathroom with geyser (common space) and the open air terrace has a cool breeze blowing. It is around 4 pm now and I realise that my endless search has been fruitful!

These words sound true now, ‘Patience is worth it.’ The waiting and trouble throughout the afternoon disappears in the cosy family homestay feels of Joshi Homestay. Tibetan Thangkas, paintings, everything in the Pradhan home is artistic. Anjana aunty hands over a cup of Darjeeling tea which instantly peps me up. I have a shower and decide to go for a walk at about 430 pm.

Hemant uncle draws a simple plan for me after learning that I prefer to take it slow rather than rushing to see the usual sights. I tell him it is ok if I can’t go to Tiger Hill and since I am alone it makes no sense to waste money on taxi rides.

Hemant Uncle asks me to go walking along the mall road (again!), visit the Mahakal market and go to the unique temple there. I step out and notice that the weather has improved considerably. I am certain it is also the fact that there is no 15 kilo backpack on me! I am loving the evening walk and come across a few Nepali musicians and singers performing songs and playing the traditional musical instrument Sarangi.

Many places have Gorkhaland written on signboards. I continue my walk and reach the temple at about 5 pm. It is nice and misty now; the Mahakal market is a place for cheap shawls and woollen stuff. I check some of the products and they are all synthetically made. I come across a few vintage-looking colonial cottages on the way to the temple. I think they must be a boutique hotel or airbnb. This entire region has a mysterious feel with manicured lawns, misty trees, tall deodhars.

Mahakal Temple, Darjeeling

There are monkeys galore around the entrance of the temple and signboards informing the visitor to be aware of the monkeys! The message of peace has been inscribed on the temple walls, in different languages. The temple is located on a hillock and the path passes through a dense forest with a sharp inclining path. The temple is unique – sacred for both Hindus and Buddhists. There is a Hindu Pandit and also a Buddhist monk in the temple and the Mahakal Temple is a highly revered place for the locals.

I am loving the weather in Darjeeling. Buddhist Lion and prayer wheel with Tibetan inscriptions on the main temple wall inside the shrine. Buddhist Buddha and Hindu Lord Shiva on wall. Dragons on the wall. There are also paintings of Lord Shiva, Ganesha, Shivling, Lakshmi Ji. Prayer wheels and prayer flags surround the entire Mahakal Temple complex. There are also many Shivling’s scattered all across the temple and give a very pleasing feel.

I start walking back and come across one Tinker Belle’s Cottage; it looks like a wonderful place to stay. The time is about 530 pm and I just decide to walk towards the opposite side from where I came to the mall road. It is an official Government’s residence/office – Raj Bhavan and lies at the end of the Mall Road.

The valley views are incredible and there are homestays galore on the road near Raj Bhavan Road in Darjeeling. The shade of greenery on offer is pleasing and clouds are rising in the valley, and surreal sunset colours are visible at evening time. There are youngsters chirping around, while hawkers sell their snacks on the circular path surrounding Mahakal Market. There are benches to sit and enjoy the views of the valley below.

Darjeeling has historically been home to Lepchas, Nepalese, Tibetans, Sherpas, Bhutanese and Sikkimese. I see people of different ethnicities and wonder at the rich history and heritage of the region. I sit on one of the benches and marvel at the stunning sunset colours; in hues of pink, orange and yellow. It is a memorable time and I start walking back with the aim of finding a nice place for food on the way back to the homestay.

I come across a beautiful yellow church on the way. It looks abandoned though and I don’t exactly remember the name of this Church. I also meet some young kids from Assam on the way here. It is a serene place with a stiff breeze blowing. Next day I also come across the pretty St. Andrew’s Church located on the Mall road in Darjeeling.

On the way back, I step inside to experience the Darjeeling legacy of Nathmulls, and Golden Tips Tea Store. There is also the famous Glenary’s eatery and bakery. I choose to try a pastry but it turns out to be quite ordinary and I am not impressed.

Kunga Restaurant

For dinner I go to a lovely little eatery with 4 tables by the name of Kunga. I get lucky as Kunga Restaurant closes sharp at 7 pm but I get there just in time. It is a family run place and serves authentic Tibetan food! The variety is staggering and I eat there for two consecutive days and the food is simply incredible and freshly made. I am also drawn in by the cosy interiors of another restaurant nearby, Dekeling Hotel and eat a small portion of noodles there. The prices are very reasonable.

I am pretty tired with the exploits of the day and head back to the homestay. It is a fun time and I watch motu-patlu on a cartoon tv channel with the grandson of the home! Chat with the family and relax. Thank Hemant uncle for the evening walk idea around Mahakal Temple. He also draws up a walking plan for the next day; of some hidden places in Darjeeling!

The room and bed is extremely cosy and I snuggle in the fluffy and soft blanket. The weather has become quite cold as it is raining and I am glad to be back at the homestay before it started raining. Sleep comes in no time and I am woken up by Hemant Uncle at 630 am. He is very excited and tells me that the Himalayan peaks are visible and Mt. Kangchenjunga is also visible.

Sleeping Buddha – Mt. Kangchenjunga

We rush to the balcony and I am in awe of the surreal sight. The peaks are all visible and Hemant uncle shows me the ‘Sleeping Buddha.’ This sight is extra special for me because even on my first trip to Sikkim, I didn’t even have a glimpse of Mt. Kangchenjunga. The humongous mountains with a blue sky in the backdrop is simply out of the world. I thank Hemant uncle for waking me up to be able to see this spectacle. The mountain show lasts for around 40-45 minutes and after that the clouds start moving in and shrouding the view.

After finally seeing this sight, I am able to understand what the fuss about Mt. Kangchenjunga sighting in Darjeeling and Sikkim is all about.

Since I am already up and feeling relaxed, I decide to have a bath and get ready for my walk. First it is time for breakfast; there are yummy pooris and chana masala with beaten coffee. It is super delicious and I thank Anjana aunty. I discuss the landmarks of the walk once more with Hemant uncle, just in case I lose the way – and leave at around 9 am. The walk that Hemant uncle has recommended to me is via a route that will end at JoreBungalow and Ghoom by the old walking route.

Misty walk, jungle and forested road as soon as I start walking.

Bhutia Busty Monastery

The monastery has pretty doors and looks quite old. The monk showing me inside the gompa is informative and I am surprised to see the beautiful frescoes.

There are hardly any vehicles that cross me on this road and that is what makes the walk a memorable experience. I crossed local homes and was able to come across the old world charm of Darjeeling in their lifestyle. A few locals guide me to Aloobari Gompa and other small monasteries and shrines along the way.

It takes me approximately 3 hours to cover the around 5 km distance and I reach the road in Jorebungalow at 1230 pm. I continue to Ghoom railway station and visit the museum.

DHR Museum, Ghoom

It is a misty and foggy scene at Ghoom Railway Station. I click a memorable frame while climbing the stairs to the museum. The museum is excellent and details the history of the UNESCO World Heritage – Darjeeling Himalayan Railway (DHR).

I am excited to see a toy train on the road; the train tracks run parallel to the road and it is a nice sight! Although the smoke that the train emits is a little too much. I am told that only one or two Darjeeling Himalayan Trains throughout the day run on steam engines, while the rest of the trains run on diesel engines.

Shop for 2 North Face jackets (Nepal stuff, first copy) in Ghoom for INR 2500 Rupees. The jackets are really nice and excellent for proper cold weather. I also visit a monastery located a short walk away from the Ghoom market. It has a statue of the blue eyed Maitreya Buddha which is very unique. The monk tells me there is a 100 INR photo charge to click the same. I think the monastery is called Yiga Choeling Monastery or Ghoom Monastery. I also try to pay a short visit to Dali Monastery in Ghoom but first decide to go to Ghoom station.

DHR Ghoom to Darjeeling

I check the timings for the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway from the Ghoom station and get informed by locals that the ticket for the 3 pm DHR to Darjeeling is only 30 Rupees. Otherwise, the tickets for the tourist oriented DHR are more than 1000 Rupees! I am ecstatic, wear a Nepali hat to feel like a local and am able to get a ticket when the train arrives on the platform!

The scenery is gorgeous; and the train crosses tea gardens, passes by Batasia Loop, foggy and misty scenes. The DHR criss-crosses the road many times and it is fun to see life from this slow train. How the traffic stops when the toy train crosses. The 1100 Rupee ticket is from Siliguri to Darjeeling or the other way and I anyway just want to experience this part of the route so this local train works best for me!

It takes about 30 minutes for the train to cover the 8 odd km distance to Darjeeling station. The whole valley is visible from the Darjeeling station and the sight is stunning. The clouds and sun are playing hide and seek and it has just started to drizzle. I wait for some time in the shelter of the railway station and enjoy the views and start walking when the rain doesn’t stop even after 30 minutes. Luckily, I am carrying a rain jacket and my daypack is rainproof too!

Someone points me to a walking path from where I can reach the Gandhi Road near Mall Road. It is an uphill ascending path and first I see St. Columba’s Church built in 1870. It looks beautiful from outside and is pretty from inside as well. Union Church built in 1869 came next; here mass is apparently held in Nepali language. I tried to walk as much as I could in the shelters to avoid getting wet in the rain. Come across a cute Hemadrie Hotel on the walk. Rain almost stops and turns into a drizzle. Shop for socks with a flip-flop like bottom. Utility product.

Glenary’s

Reach Glenary’s open air terrace at 620 pm and am dazzled by the surreal twilight colours. The sit out feels very romantic and many couples are clicking photographs. The tables are chić and decorated with flowers and with the lamps and lights make for a stunning setting. Many locals and youngsters are enjoying the surreal views after the rain. The best part is that one can just come here for the evening sights; there is no need to order or eat as such. At around 645 pm, it is dark and I step inside the regal interiors of the restaurant.

Colonial and charming setting, white interiors and warm lights. Eat one dish, turns out to be ok. Nothing special. The staff is helpful and friendly. Reasonably priced, and a touristy experience for outsiders.

Start walking back to Joshi Homestay. The mall road is lit up and there are very pretty sights. Heritage Book Stores, Chai Chun store. At the homestay, the kid is watching cartoons and I also watch Chingam sir with him. Anjana aunty shows me a room that is being made and also a painting that she is currently making. It is very artistic and classy. There was a German traveller on a motorcycle who came for one night when he was super tired, Anjana aunty mentioned.

Chat up with Hemant uncle, show the jackets and get a sign of approval from him! He gives a thumbs up to both quality and price. Sleep late today, sharing experiences with Hemant uncle and the other traveller staying at the homestay. Wake up in the morning. Feel very relaxed. Everyone’s chilling and I am sleepy so I have breakfast and go back to zzz and sleep again.

Keventer’s

I head out to Keventer’s for brunch after a leisurely bath. Epic breakfast. It is a favourite with the school kids who call it Kev’s. It is a simple place and has an open terrace. Cold coffee too.

Himalayan Mountaineering Institute (HMI)

Endless walk to reach the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute. There’s a museum and a museum shop too with an excellent collection of winter wear. Souvenirs from the Everest climb are showcased in the museum. There’s a canteen as well where outsiders can also eat. It is a nice environment and must visit if you are in Darjeeling.

Darjeeling Zoo

My first visit to a zoo in what feels like forever. Padmaja Naidu Himalayan Zoological Park. Famous for Red Panda and Snow Leopard. Felt sad to see such a majestic animal in captivity. Red Panda is cute and seems to be eating all the time. There is another separate section with many exhibits.

I continue walking after visiting the Zoo and go on the way to the Happy Valley Tea Estate; and am super surprised to come across Alexander Csoma de Koros Avenue. He is a Hungarian traveller with a Zanskari connection. His memorial and tombstone is here, he died on the way to Lhasa in 1842 AD. He was a great scholar and translated the Tibetan dictionary from Tibetan to English.

Happy Valley Tea Estate

It took a nice 20 minute walk for me to reach these fabulous tea gardens, amidst tall pine trees. Tea gardens spread over acres and acres. Lovely walk to the busty (homes of locals) through narrow walking path. Fantastic time. Then take the long walk back to Joshi Homestay. Eat an early dinner at Kunga Restaurant.

At the homestay, watch motu patlu with the grandson and share the travel stories with the family. Meet their son, Nikhil who is a trek guide. Invite for a trek! Hemant Uncle mentions he had the old Land Rovers but he sold them!

Sleep well. It rains all night.

Morning, Hemant uncle wakes me up very early. Crazy amazing view of Mt. Kanchenjunga from the room. I click a memorable photograph from the window of the washroom. Quick but filling breakfast at the homestay. Thank the family and say goodbye. Hope to return again.

Downhill walk to shared taxi stand in Darjeeling. Shared taxi to Kurseong at around 9 am.

Join Travelshoebum on Twitter, Instagram and Facebook.

Since I had prior information about this matter, I had already made my mind to not wait for news about the train and to just leave by the shared sumo to Kurseong. Anyway, the Darjeeling railway station was even farther away from the shared taxi stand which was quite a long walk away from Mall Road where Joshi Homestay was located.

IRCTC showed that the Red Panda Express daily train from Darjeeling to Kurseong was cancelled daily but it still allowed me to book a ticket. I received a message sometime in the night indicating that the train was cancelled and that the amount will be refunded in my bank account. I woke up early, got lucky with a majestic view of Mt. Kanchenjunga; had a quick breakfast and tea at Joshi Homestay. Thanked Hemant uncle and Anjana aunty for the wonderful time and waved goodbye.

It must have been around 8:30 in the morning when I left the mall road to begin the steep descent to read the Darjeeling shared taxi (Sumo stand) syndicate. The weather was a bit humid but thankfully it did not rain as I was walking on the road. It hardly took me 20 minutes to amble down to the sumo syndicate. The distance wasn’t much and while the uphill climb was excruciating in the sun, the downhill walk was fun! The shops and touristy gimmicks of Darjeeling were just getting ready to open.

A shared sumo from Darjeeling to Kurseong was stationary and available and I quickly took the receipt for a good seat in the same. If memory serves me right, the shared sumo fare was 60 Rupees. The distance from Darjeeling to Kurseong is only 30 kms. I quickly grabbed a puff and a pastry from the nearby branch of Glenary’s which was just opposite to the taxi stand on the Hill Cart Road.

I had only a day to explore Kurseong, since I had spent an extra day in Darjeeling than originally planned! My flight from Bagdogra to Delhi was scheduled for the next day, late in the afternoon and basically it meant that I had an entire day to wander around Kurseong. Kurseong (pronounced Korsong) in the local Lepcha language literally translates to ‘The land of white Orchids’.

The journey from Darjeeling to Kurseong was incident free (hardly an hour) and I reached Kurseong Main Bazaar (near Kurseong Railway Station) at around 10 am. The weather in Kurseong was sunny and humid. I had almost no idea about a staying place in Kurseong and thereby asked for help from locals in finding a reasonable place to stay in Kurseong. I was ok with staying either with staying in a hotel/guest house or a homestay since it was only for a day and I would spend most of the time exploring the misty schools and environs of Kurseong.

There were a few cheap and run-down hotels in the bazaar area but some local leader was visiting Kurseong the same day and these cheap hotels were either booked or were being currently occupied by the security police guys. Someone took me to a smelly room and that resulted in me thinking about heading to Bagdogra the same day if I could not find a place to stay in Kurseong!! Yes, it was that bad.

Kurseong Railway Station is located at an altitude of 4864 ft and the town is located on the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway (DHR) UNESCO World Heritage line. There is a Railway Museum with souvenirs, memorabilia and exhibits from the old times but it was closed. Asked the station master for help in opening it, and he asked me to buy a 20 Rupee admission ticket. He had the keys and opened it as soon as I paid. Wonderful exhibits and information about DHR and Kurseong.

After an hour or so of trying to find an ok place to stay in the sultry weather, the weather gods intervened and it became cloudy and misty in Kurseong. I felt much better now since my backpack had become quite heavy with all the shopping done in Kalimpong and Darjeeling. It was quite clear now that I would have to walk to the outskirts of Kurseong and find a room in one of the peaceful homestays in that region.

When I started walking, the locals remarked that there is 1 homestay on the way around 1 km after Kurseong and a sort of guaranteed place to stay – Makaibari Tea Estate Homestays around 3 kms from Kurseong main bazaar. Crossed pretty colonial buildings on the way, little tired but the refreshing and cool air invigorates me. I am jumping in delight in the mist and the fog; cross the 1903 established St. Andrew’s Church.

Also cross a very pretty house, Carlton House – A colonial establishment with an imposing entrance and tea gardens visible from the entrance. Tall trees line up the path inside the estate property, beautiful Victorian lamps decorate the front view and Carlton House looks even more serene in the fog! I remember doing an instagram live broadcast while walking on this foggy stretch where perhaps the visibility was hardly 10 feet!

The Darjeeling Tea Research Centre is to my right; I think about going in but realise that it is already close to noon and I better hurry up and quickly settle on a place to stay in Kurseong! The walk continues, the homestay recommended by the locals is good but costs around 2000 Rupees. I decide to just go to Makaibari Tea Estate Homestays run by the workers at the Makaibari Tea Estate.

Makaibari Tea Estate Homestay

I reach the main gate of Makaibari Tea Estate and contact of the main guy managing the homestays; he takes the money (can’t remember if it was 500 or 800 Rupees) per person per day and makes me meet up with a local in whose home I am supposed to stay! This exchange was quite smooth and I walk with the local to his home. It is a small family home located in the Makaibari Tea Estate area where the staff lives.

It is a very nice initiative taken by the tea estate workers to start this homestay concept in Kurseong and let travellers experience the authentic local life. It is a simple home and a meagre room. But thats all you need to stay when there is a moving family to take care of you. The room has a single bed on one side, a sofa set for 2 people, another single bed on the other side and Chinese fans as decoration. The family lives in the 2 other rooms in the house.

The family comprises of old grandparents, parents and a young kid who is very bright and speaks proper English. He is the de facto communicator for the family when they have guests who speak English. I learn that the family has hosted many international travellers too and maintain a log book with messages and experiences written by people of various nationalities. I am served Darjeeling tea as a welcome drink.

The Makaibari Tea Estate Homestay system is simple, 5-6 families in total function as homestays and the homestay is assigned at random through a turn-by-turn system by the manager in charge of the whole system. This way, every family has equal opportunities to host travellers and make some money as well. The manager takes a small cut for every transaction (which I personally didn’t like but guess it is the only system that works).

There are creepers growing near the homestay; I spot a few plump squashes growing on the creepers. The kid discusses many topics with me and takes me for a walk as lunch is being prepared. There are lush and misty tea gardens nearby; I wish they were surrounding the homestay where I am at! We come back and lunch is ready.

I am famished. The search-for-accommodation walk has left me drained of energy and the knowledge that I only have a few hours to see whatever I can of Kurseong is already proving to be a lot of pressure! Lunch is served – Rice, omelette, green vegetables, dall, 2-3 types of home made pickles, dips and snacks. It feels like a feast. The grandma gets her questions translated through the kid and I have a wonderful time sitting with the family and eating my lunch.

The bathroom is outside the house; when I ask to use it they hand me the keys. It is around 1:30 pm and I decide to rush back to Kurseong after lunch. Luckily, there are shared vans plying this route till Kurseong Railway Station. They charge around 20 Rupees per seat. Happy I don’t have to walk all the way back!

History of Kurseong

Kurseong was originally a part of the Sikkimese Kingdom and was acquired by Nepal sometime in the 18th Century. After the British came; in 1835 the British took charge of Kurseong and transformed it to another hill station for them.

Walking Around in Kurseong

I reached Kurseong main Bazaar at around 2 pm. I was on the Pankhabari Road which meets the Hill Cart road just in front of the Kurseong Rail Station. The Hill Cart Road continues uphill to the more loftier parts of Kurseong.

Dow Hill School

Got into a shared cab that dropped me close to the school area. At the outset, someone stopped me from entering the school premises but a few locals came to the rescue and urged them to let me see the school and photograph it. Grand and beautiful structure, very pretty to look at with the nice colour palette and misty atmosphere. Just outside the school, I meet some auto guys and locals who recommend I take a walk and go to the other places.

I take the directions from them and start walking on the road; it is through a dense forest and I totally enjoy the scenic beauty of Kurseong. After 5 odd minutes, there’s a turn and a tiny stall that serves chai and snacks. I spot many young kids and school guys who crowd the snacks stall! After all the setting is quite impeccable; there are wooden benches and bamboo stools beneath the humongous pine and deodhar trees. This school area is located at a much higher altitude than Kurseong town, and thats why its cool and misty! Feel fresh and invigorated with the walks.

The road is nostalgic with fallen leaves covering the road path; there are hardly any vehicles to be seen and only school kids seem to walk this path! Reach an abandoned Church that is in yellow colour and seems to be deserted. It is near the entrance of the Victoria Boys School and the watchman doesn’t want me to go inside.

Victoria Boys School

I am asked to get permission to go inside from one of the teachers living in the nearby quarters. I plead for help from the guard and he sends one of the school kids with me to get the permission. The teacher asks me the purpose and I just tell I am travelling; he asks the kid to let me photograph the building etc. Victoria Boys School looks even grander than Dow Hill School. It is painted in shades of yellow and was built around 1905. Kids are playing football in the massive playground.

I am a little off mood due to the drama involved in taking permission and decide to walk back to the snack guy. Luck intervenes. A young local on a motorcycle randomly speaks to me and offers to show me around the most scenic parts of Kurseong! I am delighted. There are a few other guys with him, so he seems like a dependable guy and I am going in front of the snacks stall so there is hardly any chance of anything going wrong!

We vroom on the motorbike and he shows me the West Bengal Forest School on Dow Hill and a lake located high somewhere on Dow Hill (which I had no idea is said to be haunted). We take a short walk through a park to reach the lake. Lovely road as we ascend higher, very misty and foggy with almost no vehicle in sight. The guy who is showing me around and is working with someone and they are constructing some bamboo cottages for tourists. I can’t thank him enough for taking me to some beautiful places in Kurseong where I most definitely would not have reached with public transport.

Other Prominent Places to Visit in Kurseong :

St. Paul the Apostle Church

Saint Andrews Church

St. Mary’s Grotto

St. Helen’s School

Netaji Museum & Institute of Asian Studies

Ambootia Tea Estate

Cochrane Place

Makaibari Tea Estate

Tashi Samtenling Monastery

Goethals Memorial School

Around 5-530 pm, it starts raining – I still want to try and go to St. Paul the Apostle Church and some nearby places that I have missed. Alas, I can’t find a shared cab. Run here and there! Haha, a little excited about going and try to explore my options if it is actually possible to see those places. Since it continues raining, I decide instead to walk to Makaibari Tea Estate Homestay before it gets dark. See more pretty buildings on the way.

Reach homestay and have dinner at 7 pm. Request the family for roti if they can make it. Maybe I am feeling a little homesick. The homestay grandma is a kind person; she makes potato fried curry, squash vegetable, dall and roti. Tea is also served with dinner. More conversations with the family and relax. I also fill their visitors log book and the young kid staples my card in the book with my review.

I go to bed and keep the window open in the night. It is slightly humid but I manage to sleep well and keep sleeping till late. Cosy bed. In the morning, I don’t want to go anywhere and just stay at the homestay, spend time walking around and then leave for Bagdogra airport at around 9 am. Thats the plan.

Morning tea; lovely misty morning. Homestay family says keep 2 hours for Bagdogra and that shared cabs keep running regularly in the morning hours. Makaibari Tea Estate Homestay location is anyway on the road itself. I finish my breakfast and the little kid takes me around. Some youngsters are playing cricket and football in the midst of lush greenery while mist emanates from the tea gardens.

Thank the family many times for the lovely stay experience and hope to come back someday for a longer stay.

Shared cab drama, 9 am no cab. There is no cab that comes for more than 1 hour. I finally decide to hitchhike. 5-10 kms in a truck. Then get an auto carrier and I agree to pay Rs. 350 to drop me directly to Bagdogra airport. Heart in my mouth many times. Hehe, but all’s well that ends well.

I still have to collect the 4 liquor wine bottles from Namrata Restaurant (courtesy of Bijoy Da of Our Guest Travels, Sikkim trip) near Bagdogra Airport. Pick the bag after communicating with Bijoy Da – the auto guy really helped in finding Namrata Restaurant. Reach the airport at 1-1:30 pm. Lot of time on my hand.

Liquor bottles drama. Bagdogra is a military airport. I had transferred the liquor content into plastic bottles so that the glass bottles don’t break in transit. Security guys say can’t carry. They demand that I show the receipts of buying the juice / wine bottles. I say its juice. Cancer juice for a patient, my grandmother. Drama. Huge drama. Main army officer CISF guy is the chief here. He asks the staff to taste and the staff says startled its wine.

Some kind people see the commotion and my (seemingly) crying face and the security guys relent. The CISF chief asks the security guys to pack and seal the bottles separately and allow me to take them as check-in luggage.

Very lucky for me as my baggage is already overweight. 13.7 kilo backpack has already been checked in and this handbag with cardamom weighs around 5 kilos. I call Bijoy bhaiya just in case the bottles are not allowed. He is in Bagdogra and quite close to the airport. Even in the worst case scenario, I don’t want to throw away these 4 precious bottles brought all the way from Dzongu.

The CISF chief tells the AirAsia guys to keep it separately in check-in bag and issues a special order and sends one person with me. Since there is not much time remaining for the AirAsia flight, one security guy accompanies me to help in putting me in front of the queue and finish the ordeal. Cant thank these guys enough!

Apparently the official rules mean that one can carry 5 litres of alcohol on domestic flights in India. The Sikkimese guys at the AirAsia counter are very happy I had managed to fight and take cack these precious cultural souvenirs! All in the rules, timber wine, rhododendron wine, raspberry wine and some other fruit. Reminisce about memories while sharing it with numerous friends in Delhi! Yay.

Join Travelshoebum on Twitter, Instagram and Facebook.

Read : Going Offbeat : Kutla in Parvati Valley

Fast forward to May 2018 and a mixture of sudden changes in weather coupled with me getting drenched in a downpour had resulted in a fever. Thachi village and Thachi Valley are not even in a remote corner of my mind. I was recuperating in a small village called Mateura Jari  in Parvati Valley and after feeling better sleeping off my fever had boarded a bus for Aut. At Aut bus stand (before Aut tunnel where the buses congregate), I noticed a signboard ‘Thachi’ written on a bus.

Click to view slideshow.

I had conversed with Mr. Mukesh from Thachi Valley a long time ago and his number was saved on my phone. I called him up and asked about the existence of a homestay; he was gracious and kind to tell me to board the bus and that he will make the necessary arrangements for my stay, food and walks around the valley. He said that even though he wasn’t physically present there (Mukesh works in Delhi) but he belonged to Thachi Valley and a guy named Guddu will be there in case I needed any help. I happily boarded the bus and was sleepy eyed when it reached Balichowki.

Life seemed to have come full circle when the bus stopped in Balichowki; my roving eyes tried to search for the dhaba uncle but Balichowki seemed to have grown from a tiny bus stop to a sizeable village on the road to Banjar – Jibhi & Jalori Pass ahead to Rampur Bushahr and I could find no trace of the dhaba whatsoever. Anyhow, the bus took the turn and a began a long ascent where the engine roared and groaned on the climb. I was totally unaware of the existence of road to Panjain and the fact that the road to Thachi Valley also had numerous other sub-valleys.

Click to view slideshow.

After around 2 hours of getting in the bus at Aut, I had reached Thachi Valley and Guddu Guide had spoken to the bus driver to make sure I was dropped at the exact point from where the homestay was located. We walked through an apple orchard to reach the Thachi Valley Homestay. It was about to be 2 pm and in the feverish state of mind I was in, I had completely forgotten to eat breakfast and suddenly felt very hungry. All thanks to Guddu, he quickly ushered me to the dining space and I was pleased to eat in a nice wooden setting with ample fresh air for company.

Also read : Celebrating a Traditional Festival in a village in Kullu Valley, Himachal Pradesh

Lunch was freshly made for a group of backpackers who were already there and the cook made fresh chapatis and served the food to me. It was the simplicity of delicious home-cooked food that is most appealing when travel is a way of life for you. I relished 3-4 chapatis and ate to my heart’s content. Thachi Valley is at an altitude of around 2000m and it certainly felt very chilly when the breeze blew and the sun hid behind the clouds. I was reminded of my fever but was also certain in my mind that there was no need for a paracetamol.

Click to view slideshow.

After I finished my lunch, Guddu asked me if I wanted to rest or if I didn’t mind accompanying the group on a hike to Pundir Rishi Temple that was located a short distance away from the homestay in Thachi Valley. We were dropped on a walking trail via a car and the light play beneath the deodhar and pine trees was enchanting. The aroma of the jungle was even more enhanced after the recent rains and we all walking with a song in our heart. Guddu Guide (like all locals) was much faster than all of us and disappeared ahead of us numerous times. And then we spotted it – The Pundrik Rishi Temple.

When I heard the name, at first I was startled – I had seen a lake and another temple by the same name Pundrik Rishi and mentioned the same to Guddu Guide. He grimaced and said that ‘I know where that place is’ and said that temple is Pundir Rishi Temple and that Pundrik Rishi and Pundir Rishi are brothers. The temple was set in a lovely green compound and had two small ponds nearby, one of which was an old water source. One of the ponds seemed like a small stepwell and was filled with green-looking water; perhaps because of the moss. There were a lot of fishes in the lake and Guddu Guide confirmed that since this is a sacred spot the locals don’t catch and eat the fish from here.

Click to view slideshow.

A lot of ancient-looking stone statues were scattered across the green meadow where the temple was located. The temple itself was constructed out of wood and had intricate carvings. It was dedicated to the snake deity – ‘Nag devta’ and had carvings of snake just outside the main sanctum sanctorum of the temple. Since it was evening, the pandit or pujari was not there and the temple was officially closed. There was a canopy sort of structure on one side of the temple that had a beautifully painted roof in blue. It was a tranquil sight when a few sheep came ambling by and were happily grazing in the ample greenery around Pundrik Rishi Temple.

Click to view slideshow.

A lady was also around the sheep (maybe the sheep were hers!) and with the slanting sunrise filtering through the deodhar trees, it felt quite surreal. It had only been a few hours in Thachi Valley and I was already hooked. There was so much to see in every corner of this wonderful state, Himachal Pradesh. Thats the magic of offbeat places, there are no tourists to be seen, no shopkeepers trying to sell them souvenirs. The magic of exploration lies exactly in places like Thachi Valley, where nature reigns supreme and the the only sounds that you hear are of nature itself – than the honking of horns! And also, you find any tourists from Delhi here!

Since it was already around 5 pm, it was time for the other group to be dropped off to Aut to the Volvo bus stand. We said goodbye to them; walked toward the road, which turned out to be just a short downhill hike that passed a traditional Himachali water mill (gharat) on the way. Like most other parts of Himachal Pradesh, the gharat seemed to be abandoned. The arrival of modernisation in the form of roads and the flour mill at Bajaura have hastened the decline of the age-old traditional water chakki. I fondly remember my initial journeys and the sweet taste of the chapatis which were more refreshing as the flour had been ground with love and care in the gharat.

Click to view slideshow.

After that, we drove back to the homestay at Thachi Valley through the Panjain route. The Forest Rest House at Panjain is located at a beautiful meadow-like hillock and commands a great view. It was late evening by the time we reached the FRH at Panjain and I could only marvel at the stunning flowers surrounding the lovely cottages. After walking around for a bit, we left from there as it had started drizzling.

Click to view slideshow.

As we reached the homestay, I suddenly realised that I was quite tired because of the fever last night and was happy to have a simple dinner. Guddu was helpful in sending the food to the room itself as the temperature had fallen considerably and it had become quite cold due to the constant rainfall. There was nobody else in the entire cottage except a persistent dog that would come every now and then if I kept the door open. After struggling for a bit with the sudden cold, I quickly snuggled down in the blanket. Thunder and lightening was the order of the night and it kept raining continuously.

I slept well in the cosy cottage and woke up late next morning. For a while, I thought I should have woken up earlier but when I opened the cottage door I realised it had been raining all the time and it was better that I ended up sleeping. The valley views from the cottage were great whenever the clouds parted. Guddu Guide made it a wonderful morning by bringing his special ginger lemon honey tea with breakfast. It had the right mixture of ingredients and provided much needed warmth and relief to my throat.

Click to view slideshow.

After whiling away an hour or so, we ventured out when it stopped raining. The main village of Thachi was around 1 km from the Thachi Valley Homestay and we jumped our way across puddles and made it to the Bithu Narayan Temple compound. There was a big temple in the middle surrounded by small temples of different sizes on the sides. The landscape looked misty and green due to the continuous rain and there was no trace of sunshine; therefore it wasn’t a great day for photography but you have to make do with circumstances sometimes.

Click to view slideshow.

Bithu Narayan Temple is the presiding deity of Thachi Valley and is revered in the entire region. It is an ancient temple, we marvelled at the beautiful architecture and wood carvings of the small temples; some of which were closed. The unforgettable thing here was the 11 headed stone statue of Lord Vishnu. It looked really old and could surely be counted as a treasure. I guess this is what the villagers meant by the temple being ancient, they might have referred to this statue as ancient. Anyhow, it was a wonderful setting for a temple with towering deodhars surrounding the small meadow.

Click to view slideshow.

It had started drizzling again and while we debated whether or not we should continue our hike to a vantage point with a panoramic view of Thachi Valley, it was decided that we walk toward the Hadimba Devi temple located on a hillock. Depending on the circumstances and the situation of the rain, we could reconsider the next course of action. I was still in two minds whether or not to stay in Thachi Valley Homestay for today as there were other parts of the region near Great Himalayan National Park (GHNP) to be explored.

Clouds floated in the valley below as we climbed higher and higher on our slippery walk. The grass shined green and the wind had more chill in the air even at noon. The sun was well and truly on a holiday in Thachi Valley and in the hot month of May, I shivered in my thin jacket. We crossed numerous apple orchards on our way; apple blossoms had given way to tiny fruits and a few dogs also joined in for company. As soon as we reached a shelter conveniently set up near Hadimba Temple, it began pouring again. I couldn’t help but feel it was lucky of us to not get drenched in the rain.

Click to view slideshow.

After it stopped raining, I finally had a chance to appreciate the vantage viewpoint of the valley from Hadimba Temple meadow. By the time I decided to click a photograph, clouds had enveloped the entire surroundings and we could barely see 10 feet from our eyes! We were quite close to the huge BSNL tower of Thachi Valley which might perhaps be the highest point in the nearby area. Guddu Guide informed me that this Hadimba Temple in Thachi was related to the Hadimba Temple in Manali and that it was a very revered site locally. There were other statues also kept in the meadow where offerings were made by devotees.

Guddu also mentioned about a lovely hike from Thachi to a region called Chanjwala and Saponi Dhar to reach a pristine waterfall and Gaun Beed. He also said that it was possible to go hiking from Thachi Valley to Janjehli in one day! I was quite surprised and amazed to know that and dreamed on hiking to Janjehli from Thachi Valley some day. As the rain abated and we slipped and somehow made our way back to the homestay, I understood that I’d need to come back to Thachi again to appreciate the full beauty of this offbeat valley in Himachal Pradesh.

Click to view slideshow.

Interested folks can get in touch with me for trips to Thachi Valley!

How to Reach Thachi Valley from Delhi? 

A Volvo Bus to Aut where you might sometimes find a direct bus to Thachi Valley crossing through Balichowki.

Join Travelshoebum on Twitter, Instagram and Facebook.

Check : Tribes of Nagaland – Hornbill Festival

A Brief History of Patna

Patna is the capital and biggest city of Bihar and lies on the banks of River Ganga. Patna is an ancient city and was once called Pataliputra. It is among the world’s oldest capital cities and lies on the fertile stretch of land causing the title of an imperial metropolis. Its heritage and history can be ascertained with the 2000 year old ruins found in different parts of this ancient megapolis. Changing dynasties over the centuries have meant Patna’s name was changed multiple times; from Kusumpura to Pushpapura, then Pataliputra to Azeemabad and finally Patna.

It is a secular city with a multitude of tourist attractions for all religions – temples for Hindus, Gurudwaras for Sikhs, Mosques for Muslims, Buddhist sights for Buddhists and Jain temples for Jains.

Places & Attractions to Visit in Patna, Bihar

Bihar Museum

Set in a 13 acre campus and opened fully in 2017 at a cost of approx. 500 crores, Bihar Museum can easily rank among India’s finest museums. The sprawling premises were envisaged as a campus by Japanese architect firm Maki and Associates and Mumbai’s Opolis Architects. The Bihar Museum on Bailey Road stands as a symbol of change that the state is trying to achieve.

Click to view slideshow.

The very famous single-piece sculpture from 2nd Century AD; Didarganj Yakshi is exhibited at Bihar Museum. A signboard states that she was found in the Ganga, and for many years, the base of the sculpture was used as a washerman’s stone. The galleries at Bihar Museum cover a vast timeline, with exhibits from 4th Century BC to the 1st Century BC. There are also rich records from some famous dynasties – the Mauryas, Sungas, Guptas and Palas. There are galleries full of ancient sculptures, relics, coins and tools. I just wished that the authorities disallow mobile phones to stop the ‘selfie’ menace; its shocking to see everyone just going on clicking selfies with the ancient statues.

Click to view slideshow.

There’s a Bihari Diaspora gallery, where the struggles of Biharis who worked in Mauritius, Suriname, Trinidad, Fiji and Guyana are shown. The beautiful crafts gallery has Madhubani art, Sujani embroidery and Tikuli art on display. The museum also has an amphitheatre, a state-of-the-art auditorium with an interesting short film on the heritage and history of Bihar, a cafeteria by the name of Pot Belly that serves Bihari cuisine and souvenir shops. I was amazed to see the Children’s Museum with one of the exhibits showcasing wildlife sanctuaries of Bihar while there were many more interactive exhibits.

Entry fee for Bihar Museum is Rupees 100. Bihar Museum is closed on Mondays.

Patna Museum

Patna Museum was the first place that I visited with regards to attractions of Patna. It is a beautiful old building painted in a pleasing shade of yellow and is located in a compound full of greenery. Patna Museum was established in 1928 during the British rule and is a rich repository of Patna’s & Bihar’s history and heritage. It is regarded as one of the best and oldest museums of India. Patna Museum is spread over 2 floors and has multiple galleries of artefacts.

Click to view slideshow.

There are Buddha relics found from the Vaishali excavation, historical artefacts discovered in the archaeological excavations across Bihar, pre-historic sculptures and terracotta objects from ancient times. A separate gallery is dedicated to the display of medieval period miniature paintings from different parts of India while another one is dedicated to coins. Among the interesting things displayed are is a World War I cannon.

I was pleasantly amazed to see an entire gallery dedicated to Pandit Rahul Sanskritayan. A closed room at Patna Museum with a separate entrance fee displays a casket believed to contain the Buddha’s ashes.

Street Art across Patna – Mithila Paintings / Madhubani Paintings

As soon as I reached Patna, the ubiquitous painted walls across Patna piqued my interest. Undertaken as a part of a massive project (Smart City Patna), Madhubani paintings / Mithila paintings have been painted on almost all the walls in Patna and they give a pleasing and aesthetic look to an outsider’s eyes even amidst the chaos of Patna.

According to the locals, most of these paintings have been made by the students learning Mithila Paintings / Madhubani art. I was impressed by the level of creativity used by the students as they have included different messages to make the paintings relevant too rather than just being mere street art.

Click to view slideshow.

However, a few locals were unhappy with the fact that these mythological paintings were also being pee’d upon at the bus stations and railway stations.

Kumhrar – Archeological Site

Kumhrar refers to Kumhrar Park which is an archaeological site where one can have a glimpse of the ruins from more than 2000 years ago. Remnants of the ancient city of Pataliputra established by the Mauryan Empire can be seen here. The excavations were conducted at Kumhrar between 1912 & 1915 and were successful in unearthing the ruins of a Mauryan Pillared Hall. The place is now referred to as ‘Eighty Pillared Hall.’

There’s also a Aryogawati – Dhanvantri which used to serve as a hospital. Ruins are visible in the greenery. On the site, there’s a museum / exhibition hall run by ASI with a collection of the finds from the excavation. I was lucky to find the gatekeeper with the key who opened if for me. The collection in the museum showcases copper coins, terracota beads and figurines, seals and earthern utensils.

Agam Kuan

Agam Kuan is said to be from the times of the Mauryan Emperor Ashoka (2nd-3rd Century BC). Hence, it is over 2000 years old and is one of the oldest historical sights in the ancient city of Patna. It is touted to be a bottomless well which has now been cordoned off and entry is closed. Agam Kuan is painted in red from the outside in the present times and the crowds of nearby Shitla Devi Temple throng the compound. One can have a glimpse of the well while taking a circular round of Agam Kuan. Devotees can also be seen sitting on the spaces outside the well where some statues have been installed and devotees are paying respects and offerings.

On my last day in Patna, I took a shared auto and was glad that the locals knew exactly how I could reach Agam Kuan. They dropped me on a bridge and asked me if I was happy to cross the small railing there? I was shown the spot and Agam Kuan was accessible by stairs from the place on the flyover. If I had been adamant about reaching the exact spot then it would have taken a lot of time, money and effort to reach Agam Kuan but thanks to the locals I was in the right place with minimal fuss. The stairs and path was lined with sellers showcasing religious paraphernalia owing to the presence of a popular temple in the same compound as Agam Kuan.

There are many legends with regards to Agam Kuan : Some say Agam Kuan is the place where Ashoka tortured convicts by throwing them into the well where a fire was kept burning at the bottom. Another belief suggests that Agam Kuan has nine small wells hidden after each other and a treasure at its base! Another interesting story is spoken about Agam Kuan that numerous efforts to find the depth of Agam Kuan have been unsuccessful.

Shitla Devi Temple or Maa Shitla Mandir

Located in the same compound as the Agam Kuan well, Shitla Devi temple is a popular temple with the locals of Patna and is quite revered as well. The sculpture of Shitla Mata (She is the goddess of smallpox) is carved in black stone and is installed in the temple in the multi-storey building. Shitla Devi Temple was made famous in the mid 1990s by the wife of Lalu Prasad Yadav, Rabri Devi who prayed here regularly during testing times for her family.

I was quite unprepared for such commotion near Agam Kuan knowing that it is a historical site from the Mauryan era. There was a swarm of devotees and pilgrims near Agam Kuan and shops selling religious offerings. Ladies thronged the Shitla Devi Temple and according to a shop-owner it was an auspicious day and hence the extra crowds of pilgrims on that day!

Gol Ghar (Or Golghar)

Golghar is a large granary built in 1786 and located near Gandhi Maidan close to River Ganga. It is visible from afar and can truly be called an architectural marvel. Golghar has a height of 29m and is a gigantic round structure that was built for storage of grains for the prevention of famine that afflicted the region during those years. Alarmed by the infamous famine of 1770, captain John Garstin built this huge granary for the British army to serve as a food storage.

It looks like a Buddhist stupa from afar and only when I got closer to Golghar did I realise the enormity of this round structure! There are winding stairs around Golghar that lead to the top of the round dome and the top is said to afford great views of Patna city and Ganga river, especially during sunset. Alas, I was unable to experience the same as climbing the Golghar has been disallowed at the present time. Entry to the monument is only Rupees 5!

Click to view slideshow.

Takht Shri Harmandir Patna Sahib

Patna’s crazy traffic meant that I took more than an hour and a half to reach Takht Shri Harmandir Sahib Gurudwara. I had originally planned to reach here by sunset so that I could see the Gurudwara in both daylight and in the night. Since the time taken was so much, it was already lit up by the time I walked the stairs of this surreal place.

The streets were full of chaos outside while the Gurudwara provides an oasis of calm. It was grandly lit up with changing colours and pilgrims sat outside on the marble flooring for mediation and offering their respects. An official at Takht Shri Harmandir Sahib remarked that this Gurudwara was the second most important Gurudwara for the Sikhs after the one in Amritsar and that I was indeed blessed to be here. He also said that I must eat at the Langar (public kitchen) that was open to people from all communities.

Takht Shri Harmandir Sahib was built by Maharaja Ranjit Singh to commemorate the birth place of the 10th Guru of the Sikhs, Shri Guru Gobind Singh Ji. Shri Guru Gobind Singh Ji is one of the 5 Takhat or the Holy Seats of the authority for the Sikhs. The Gurudwara was reconstructed in 1839 and again in 1954 after an earthquake damaged it. Several relics from the life of Guru Gobind Singh Ji (born here on 22 December 1666) are preserved at this Gurudwara.

There was a prayer going on at the Gurudwara when I was there (around 730pm) which was also being heard on the loudspeakers in the compound. After marvelling at the Gurudwara with the stunning changing colours of light, I decided to go inside and pay my regards. There was a huge crowd inside; the ceiling was immaculate and looked very pretty. After spending some moments inside, I came outside, purchased some prasad, filled water from the filter in the compound and sat to enjoy the moments of peace and calm in the spiritual environment.

Other notable Gurudwaras in Patna are : Gurudwara Pahila Bari at Gurudwara Gai Ghat, Gurudwara Bal Lila Maini Sangat, Gurudwara Guru ka Bagh, Gurudwara Shri Handi Sahib Danapur.

Sikh Museum at Takht Shri Harmandir Sahib Gurudwara

While collecting my footwear, my eyes had spotted a signboard indicating Sikh Museum and as I tried to find the entrance to it one of the guards remarked that it closes at 8 and I had only a few minutes to see the Sikh Museum. I ran to the second floor where the museum was located and the lady at the museum said that I can take 5 extra minutes to see it (I had told her I am not a local and made a small request to let me see the museum).

The Sikh Museum is spread over a large room and is full of paintings, stories and anecdotes from the life of the Sikh Gurus. It is a museum that caters to the rich heritage, culture and history of Sikhism and is a must visit for visitors curious to know more about Sikh religion.

Raj-Era Buildings in Patna made during British rule

Heritage is scattered across Patna and an important part of India’s history (The British rule) can be seen through the buildings in Patna. Patna was an important city for the British and they constructed many structures that have since been called Raj-Era structures. Old Secretariat, Raj Bhavan, Bihar Assembly, General Post Office, Patthar ki Masjid, Quila House (Jalan Museum), Anjuman Islamia Hall, Sikandar Manzil, Rizwan Castle, Mariyam Manzil, Sultan Palace, Sadaqat Ashram, Dr. Sachidanand House, Christ Church, Patna Collegiate House, Patna College, Patna Science College, Tekari House, Bari Patan Devi, Badshah Manzil, Wheeler Senate Hall are among the notables ones.

Patna High Court, Patna

I was walking on the street after the visit to Bihar Museum and marvelled at the Madhubani / Mithila street art when my eyes suddenly spotted a huge building set amidst green lawns. I clicked a few pictures of the Patna High Court and was told by the guards that visitors are not allowed inside.

Patna High Court was built in 1916 and is a stunning structure in white.

Patna Women’s College

There were many signboards instructing visitors to not enter the Patna Women’s College and strict security was apparently touted inside the gates. I walked hesitantly to the gate and shouted ‘hello, hello’… Since there was nobody at the gates and the gorgeous Church-like building of Patna Women’s College was visible through an opening in the gate, I clicked a photograph and hurriedly continued my walk lest someone trouble me.

Patna Women’s College was established in 1940 and is one of the oldest women’s colleges in India.

Gandhi Museum, Patna

Gandhi museum in Patna is located near Gandhi Maidan and is dedicated to Mahatma Gandhi. It is set in ample green space and was established in 1967 to showcase exhibits depicting life and achievements of Mahatma Gandhi. It was by sheer luck that I found out about Gandhi museum as the guy who gave me a ride to Gandhi Maidan told me about the existence of this museum and that it was a must see!

Gandhi Museum is a treasure trove of knowledge as it informs the visitor about Mahatma Gandhi’s movement in Bihar and the satyagraha in Champaran. There are other artefacts and letters associated with Gandhi and also a charkha used by Mahatma Gandhi preserved in this museum.

Click to view slideshow.

Kargil Chowk

Kargil Chowk is a war memorial located near Gandhi Maidan and established in the year 2000. It is dedicated to the soldiers of Bihar, who sacrificed their lives in the 1999 Kargil War. The soldiers from Bihar & Jharkhand have their names engraved on the memorial also known as ‘Shaheed-e-Kargil Smriti Park’. Every year on 26th July, Kargil Victory Day is celebrated here by paying homage to the martyrs.

It is located on a very crowded road and can be easily forgotten in the bustle of Patna but totally worthwhile to spare a few moments and see this beautiful monument paying respect to the brave hearts.

Patna Zoo – Sanjay Gandhi Jaivik Udhyan

Also called Sanjay Gandhi Botanical & Zoological Garden, Patna Zoo was established in 1973 and is located near Bailey Road. There are a myriad variety of plants and animals inside the zoo and it is a popular picnic spot for families with kids in Patna. Facilities like toy train ride and boating are available. Patna Zoo is extremely popular among kids for the Royal Bengal Tigers on the site.

Khuda Baksh Oriental Public Library

This eminent library is located close to Patna University and was established in the early 20th Century. Khuda Baksh Oriental Public Library has a distinguished collection of rare Arabic & Persian manuscripts. Among its prized collection are priceless books that were saved from the plunder of the Moorish University of Cordoba in Spain. The library is a one man collection and the most important book here is a Qoran inscribed in a book that is only 25mm wide!

My experience at the Khuda Baksh Oriental Public Library wasn’t so great. I was told I can’t enter the manuscripts room and the main officer in charge also told me not to click any photos of even the exterior of the building. It all sounded very fishy to me as to why would they not even show me the exhibits of the rare manuscripts and the treasures that the library is so famous for.

Darbhanga House

After a less than satisfactory visit to Khuda Baksh Oriental Public Library, I wondered whether I should try and walk around the Patna University area and have a glimpse of the many historically important buildings in Patna that are mostly located in this area. And I kept walking to reach the bright yellow building of Darbhanga House. Darbhanga House is a palatial structure situated right on banks of Ganga river. It was built for the personal use of the Maharaj of Darbhanga.

Darbhanga house is situated on the bank of the Ganges and is presently serving as a college for economics, history, hindi and sanskrit classes under Patna University. There was quite a sizeable crowd courtesy of the Kali temple in the same compound as the Darbhanga House. I was skeptical if the guard at the entrance will allow me to enter but he was happy to let me in; some students told me I wasn’t allowed but upon knowing that I had purposely come to see this monument they guided me around Darbhanga House and showed me the rear side of this humongous structure that is on the bank of the Ganges.

Locals informed me that the place is called Kali Ghat. I could see a big bridge over the river Ganga and someone told me that the only way to get a full photograph of Darbhanga House is to go on the ghat. However it was too hot and I feared a guard or professor would soon be out to interrogate me on what I was doing in the college and hence thought it prudent to be on my way.

Padri ki Haveli

Made famous as the place where Mother Teresa got her training, Padri ki Haveli is also called St. Mary’s Church and is the oldest church in Patna. Roman Catholics had originally built a small church in the same place in 1713. The current structure looks Gothic and was redesigned by a Venetian architect and built in 1772. Padri ki Haveli Church is located in the old city part of Patna and is quite well known.

I boarded a shared e-rickshaw and the guy dropped me right in front of Padri ki Haveli. The high columns of the church give the Church a regal and imposing feel. I was lucky to meet the priest who opened the church doors for me. He also informed that Sunday mass is a grand event here and I must come if I was in Patna on a Sunday.

Upendra Maharathi Shilp Anusandhan Sansthan (UMSAS)

I had stumbled upon the name of this craft and art school and institution all the while wondering if it would be worth going to this far off place located in the Pataliputra Industrial Area. Upendra Maharathi Shilp Anusandhan Sansthan is an institute established in 1956 and is also a Arts & Crafts Museum in Patna, Bihar. It was created with the aim of safeguarding and promoting the dwindling crafts of Bihar.

Click to view slideshow.

Currently, it is also being run as a arts and crafts school offering six month courses in Madhubani painting, bamboo & cane craft, pottery, papier mâché, weaving, tikuli painting, leather, wood carving, appliqué work and block printing. It is spread in six acres of land and there is a library, museum, studios and workshops in the campus itself. Patna Haat – A cluster of shops selling regional products is also set up from time to time at Upendra Maharathi Shilp Anusandhan Sansthan.

Click to view slideshow.

Apart from the 3 rooms showcasing different varieties of crafts and art from across Bihar, there is also a shop where one can buy terracotta products and other craft work prepared by the students. The shop is still in a nascent stage and there are also talks of making this an online system where one can buy Bihar’s handicrafts from across India over the internet.

Buddha Smriti Park

Buddha Smriti Park is located close to Patna Railway Junction and is a modern monument spread across a wide area. The Park is a recommended picnic spot for local Patna-ites and has sprawling lawns and fountains along with Buddhist statues. A 200 feet tall Stupa is the centre of attraction at Buddha Smriti Park.

There are relics from Japan, Thailand, South Korea and Sri Lanka preserved in a glass case in the stupa. Apart from the above, there’s also a museum, meditation centre and library for the visitors. Bodhi Tree saplings from the original Bodhi tree from Anuradhapuram have been planted at Buddha Smriti Park. Best time to visit Buddha Smriti Park is in the evening during sunset time when the weather is pleasant. This park was inaugurated by the 14th Dalai Lama.

Must Try Food in Patna

Batata Puri in Patna City

I must thank an instagram friend for recommending Patna’s special Batata Puri. I am not a fan of trying chat unless its really tasty and would have never tried it otherwise! Batata Puri in Patna is made on crisp puris and topped with potato, coriander chutney, curd and sweet chutney and sprinkled with salt and other accompaniments.

The whole plate only costs Rupees 25 and I’d highly recommend trying it in Patna!

Litti Chokha near Maurya Lok Shopping Complex, Dak Bungalow Road

Litti Chokha is Patna’s signature snack and is a staple of Bihari cuisine. Litti chokha consists of Litti – grilled and ground chickpea stuffed dough balls served with chokha – a gravy curry of mashed tomatoes, brinjals and potatoes. It costs approx. 20 Rupees for a plate of litti chokha that consists of 2 littis served with unlimited quantities of chokha. Usually served with cucumber and onions on the side. Among the most recommended Litti Chokha Stalls in Patna are :

D K Litti Chokha, R K Litti Chokha, Manoj Litti Bhandar near Maurya Lok Shopping Complex on Dak Bungalow Road.

My most memorable Litti Chokha in Patna was at a stall near Gandhi Maidan in the lanes close to Harilal’s Restaurant. It just felt more authentic and was definitely tastier. A random conversation at the litti chokha stall enlightened me that hardy locals can devour 20 Littis when they are hungry! I loved the dish and am surprised that the relatively simpler dall-baati-choorma dish from Rajasthan has been made so famous while Litti Chokha is in the same ilk and still doesn’t command a fan following! I wish a change is in the offing and Litti Chokha becomes more well known across our country.

Bihari Rai’s Litti Chokha near Sanjay Gandhi Biological Park was made famous when the Bollywood star Amir Khan ate at his stall when he was in Patna!

Champaran Ahuna Mutton at Old Champaran Meat House

Champaran Ahuna Mutton is a specialty of Champaran district of Bihar. The distinct flavour of this mutton dish comes from it being cooked in an earthen pot, over slow flames of the coal. The mutton is mixed with spices, and left to cook slowly in its own juice in an earthen vessel on a coal-fire. The most authentic place to try it is at a restaurant called Old Champaran Meat House, which is close to Patna Museum. A meal for one should cost around 100-150 Rupees at this hugely popular restaurant.

Maner ka Laddoo at Maner Sweets

I wondered for a few days if I should head to Maner village (30 kms from Patna) to see the Dargah of a Sufi Saint in Maner and also try the famous Maner Laddoo. On my first day in Patna, as I walked around the Maurya Lok Complex after trying Litti Chokha at 4 different stalls in the vicinity the sight of Maner Sweets intrigued me. I walked inside and tried a Maner ka Laddoo in desi ghee and boy was it delicious!

I ended up going to Maner Sweets for the Maner ka Laddoo everyday for the rest of my time in Patna and even got back half a kilo as a souvenir at home! So, you may also not need to head to Maner village for the taste of Maner ka Laddoo and instead have it in the relative comfort of Patna!

Khaja at Sangeeta Sweets

Khaja is a sweet prepared with maida, sugar and fried in oil / ghee and looks rectangular in shape. On the way to Nalanda from Rajgir, a village by the name of Silao is famous for its Khaja sweets but I could not try it there since it was very dusty and I wasn’t sure of the khaja being fried in desi ghee.

Sangeeta Sweets is located near Patna Museum and is a recommended place to try the Khaja sweet. Apparently, the master sweet makers at this shop are from Silao village.

Food Trail In Kadam Kuan Area, Patna

R K Lassi

I was lucky to be told of this famous lassi in Kadam Kuan by the ola bike guy who dropped me to the hotel which happened to be in Kadam Kuan. The lassi is freshly made and costs only 25 Rupees.

Paan Shop near R K Lassi

There’s a paan shop near R K Lassi. 2 adjacent paan shops with one especially popular. Even the old timers of Patna come to eat pan (paan) at this shop with no name. Try the meetha paan here.

Fried Litti (Morning) in a lane (Rajesh)

I had woken up one morning and started strolling around the area near the hotel in Kadam Kuan; upon asking some locals about a breakfast place they guided me to this epic find of fried litti. Littis were being fried in a huge pan in a lane, while a crowd of buyers and hungry breakfast-eaters had assembled and plates were being dished out at a great speed. I was initially skeptical about the hygiene of the place but when I noticed the eaters (who had bisleri water bottles in their hands), I asked for a plate as well!

And the fried litti served with gram and tamarind chutney was so yummy and crispy that I had to ask for a second helping! Only 15 Rupees for 6 tiny fried littis.

Tripti Misthan Bhandar

Tripti Misthan Bhandar was recommended to me by a local foodie uncle whom I had befriended at the lassi shop and he suggested that I must try the Bengali sweets at Tripti Misthan Bhandar. And surely, he was quite astute in his observation – among the sweets that I tried, Belgrami was my absolute favourite.

Dauji Misthan Bhandar

I had seen the crowds at Dauji Misthan Bhandar from the rickshaw and after dropping my bags in the room instantly rushed to Dauji to find that the samosas were sold out and only one plate of the tikki chat was remaining! I got lucky to have eaten the most delicious aloo tikki in Patna at Dauji Misthan Bhandar in Kadam Kuan.

Shopping in Patna

New Sonali Handloom

The gentleman at this shop is highly knowledgable and knows in and out about the arts and crafts of Bihar. It is located near Maurya Lok Complex and can be a good place to buy Madhubani Paintings, Tikuli art and Bhagalpur silk sarees among other things while in Patna.

The Patna Museum Shop

The staff at The Patna Museum Shop deserves a special mention for being very kind and helpful and answering all my questions regarding arts and crafts of Patna. Their products were also very nice but I found them a bit expensive.

Bihar Emporium

When I went around asking the locals for the right place to buy local souvenirs from Bihar in Patna, they all guided me to the Bihar Emporium located in Maurya Lok Complex. Bihar Emporium also had a signboard of Tribes India and it was not worthy of being a Government Emporium. The staff were not at all keen to show me the products and it was only through my insistence that I was able to figure the basics of Madhubani paintings, Bhagalpuri silk sarees of Bihar and different fabrics and products.

As soon as I noticed the 5x prices of a Rajasthani Bed cover at Bihar Emporium, I had my answer and rushed out of the door as soon as I could!

I hope this post serves as a Travel Guide to Patna.

Join Travelshoebum on Twitter, Instagram and Facebook.

Where Exactly is Malabar Coast in Kerala?

The Northern part of Kerala adjoining the beach is known as Malabar coast and the entire region is enchanting. I was instantly in love with the sparsely crowded beaches surrounded by coconut plantations, a constant stiff breeze bringing fresh air, inland waterways called backwaters and fragrant spice plantations.

My Most Memorable Experiences from the Malabar Coast, Kerala

The Peaceful Beach at Nileshwaram

Nileshwaram (Also called Neeleshwar or Nileshwar) is a small village characterised by swaying palm trees and pristine beaches. It is blessed with a charming location on the Malabar Coast in Kerala. I distinctly remember being lulled to sleep by the sound of the crashing waves in Nileshwaram.

Nileshwar Palace is the old palace of Nileshwaram Rajas. In the morning, it was magical to walk on the pristine white sandy beach with cool sand in the feet. Hammocks hung beneath towering coconut trees almost extending an invitation as we lay on sun beds soaking in the gorgeous views of the ocean. Little huts on the sand had been laid out on the beach itself and it was otherworldly to enjoy breakfast in the beautiful surroundings. I did not get to experience it, but Theyyam performances in Nileshwar are quite popular even among local Keralites.

1500 year old Ship Building Industry in Beypore

Beypore is a sleepy town located on the banks of the Chaliyar river and a traditional hub for shipbuilding on the Malabar Coast of Kerala. It is situated around 10-15 kms away from Kozhikode. I’d boarded an auto rickshaw for going to shipbuilding area in Beypore but due to the language confusion, the auto guy dropped me in an entirely different place. Google maps came to the rescue and I somehow walked to the shipbuilding area in Beypore with my (huge) backpack. I was in an awkward scenario dripping in sweat unable to adjust to the humidity of the Malabar Coast in Kerala, even in the comparatively cooler month of February.

As soon as I reached the shipbuilding lane, I was astounded to see the huge ship being worked on by a number of carpenters. They were busy working on the partially built ship of wooden logs, and for me it was like being thrust right into the middle of the action. With the limited interaction possible due to the language barrier, I couldn’t really talk much but the people tried to show me the ship from the inside and explain the process.

From the limited knowledge I gathered – Ships made in Beypore are called uru in the local parlance. The Uru is a wooden dhow, quite huge in size and a single ship may sometimes take 2-3 years to build. Jackfruit tree wood and rosewood are used for designing the interiors. According to the workers, these ships are made without any fixed work plan or blueprint; apparently the mistry gives daily instructions to the workers. It was astonishing to know thats how the entire ship is built!

1498 – First Europeans set foot in India at Kappad Beach

I’d read in history books long back in school that Calicut is the place where the first Europeans landed in India. After coming to Kerala, it was known that Kappad Beach is the historic beach where Vasco da Gama landed on 27th May 1498. That is how the Portuguese history and the colonial history of India had its inception. Kappad beach is located around 20 kms north of Kozhikode on the Malabar Coast in Kerala.

To my surprise, upon reaching Kappad beach, there was a monument commemorating the same spot where Vasco da Gama landed more than 500 years ago; it is called Kappakadavu. If you are a history lover, Kappad beach has an old world charm of bygone times and it also makes for a nice place to spend an evening to enjoy a gorgeous sunset as well.

Experiencing the Magical Backwaters on Malabar Coast, Kerala

The backwaters on the Malabar Coast of Kerala consist of a zig-zag network of lagoons, lakes & canals and is a truly memorable delight. I was lucky to experience the backwaters in the recommended, local manner. We were on a traditional thatch-roofed houseboat, locally known as ‘kettuvallam’ and it slowly floated through the maze of canals.

Almost all the houseboats plying in the backwaters around Malabar Coast in Kerala are renovated cargo boats that are complete with all modern comforts and conveniences. According to the locals I met, nearly every family owns a houseboat in this region. It was stunning to observe the sunset from the houseboat while the beauty of the colours of nature got accentuated in the reflections on water.

On the houseboat ride, we were in the pristine valiyaparamba backwaters of Kerala, and had a glimpse of unspoilt nature with age-old traditions. Villages are set in the backwaters and are surrounded by paddy fields, their main occupation is fishing. The funniest memory for me is when I pretended to be the Captain of the Ship by wearing the hat and steering the wheel left and right!

Slow Walks in the Bounty of Nature

Walks in the countryside of Malabar Coast region took me on little trails that were shaded with coconut trees. I meandered through the plantations which are perfect for short hikes. Wherever you go, the trails are blessed with stunning vistas of the backwaters, and runs very close to pristine beaches. The locals I met all through the journeys in Kerala were very friendly and inspite of the language barrier, my time in this state will remain a cherished memory.

Delicious Kallumakkai (mussels) Biryani in Thalassery

Thalassery is a beautiful old town with a fort on the Malabar Coast in Kerala. Out of the around 8000 tonnes of green mussels harvested annually in north Kerala, Thalassery is one of the top three producers of mussels. Malabari biryani, especially the Thalassery Biryani, has a subtle taste and not heavily flavoured like its North Indian counterpart. While Hyderabad is famous for dum biryani, Thalassery mussel biryani is really meant to be savoured as one of the top biryanis in India!

And what a sight it was; after we ended up at one of the recommended eateries in Thalassery town. We were 8 of us, and we ate like hungry beasts eager to devour whatever variety of biryani appeared on the table!

Apart from the Biryani in Thalassery; Mambally’s Royal Biscuit Factory is the place where the plum cake was baked in India over 135 years ago. While Thalassery’s biryanis are famous, it is the mussel biryani that is a must try. There are many restaurants recommended by the locals and Rara Avis is a safe bet. Another interesting fact about Thalassery is that cricket was first played here in India.

Sunset at Bekal Beach near Kasaragod, Kerala

If not for catching the sunset, this experience could have easily made it to the Failures on the Road – Stupidity in Changthang, Ladakh. I had started the day in Kozhikode and after visiting the Ship Builders in Beypore had decided to head in the direction of Kannur and then try and make it somewhere close to Mangalore and try and find a cheap homestay and chill on the beach anywhere on the Malabar Coast!

In reality, I somehow got to Kannur in a slow bus, reached the train station to take a train to Kasaragod. The train turned out to be quite late and it was around evening by the time I reached Kasaragod. Kasaragod didn’t quite turn out to be the tropical paradise that I had dreamed it to be. I quickly made up my mind and boarded a bus to reach Bekal. Bekal also turned out to be a town where the beach wasn’t as close as I had thought it would be. I ran shelter-skelter with my bags before it became dark to try and find a homestay near the beach. After some hitched rides and unsuccessful stories, I finally landed on the beach near Taj Bekal.

I hadn’t found a homestay yet but the sun was setting and the scene was so immense that I was torn between two feelings. I was very worried about finding a nice homestay, but also immensely happy to have made it to the pristine Bekal beach. I spent some time enjoying the after-sunset colours; walked back to the main road to get lucky, hitch a ride and found a cheap place to stay.

Food Heaven : Cafés & Restaurants in Auroville

Danish Delight in India – Tranquebar (Tharangambadi)

St. Francis Church, Kochi & India’s Colonial History

Backpacking in Wayanad : Top Offbeat Experiences

Join Travelshoebum on Twitter, Instagram and Facebook.

Introduction to Ranikhet and Brief History

Ranikhet is located at 1830m and lies in Almora district of Kumaon region in Uttarakhand. It is a cantonment town that was built by the British in 1869. It is said that Lord Mayo, the then Viceroy of India was so wonderstruck by the beauty of Ranikhet that he contemplated shifting the army headquarters from Shimla to Ranikhet. I was shocked to know that Ranikhet was under the rule of Nepal for a short duration and was amalgamated in the British empire in 1816.

A walk around Ranikhet is a great idea to spot the quaint and charming British estates surrounded by green gardens full of colourful flowers. Ranikhet is also home to the Kumaon Regiment and is completely dominated by the army, to feel like a pollution free and green tourist destination. Nature lovers are in for a treat, as beautiful forest trails abound all around this fairytale colonial town. Life goes on in Ranikhet at an unhurried pace. Old bungalows and churches still exist in their original glory and 2-3 days is a good time to spend in Ranikhet.

Green Beauty of Ranikhet

I went on a stroll around Ranikhet and was instantly enamoured with the natural beauty. The town is blessed with beautiful rolling hills and spectacular views of the snowy Himalayas. It has wide open spaces, a stunning golf course and breathtaking walks in the numerous forests surrounding Ranikhet.

Ranikhet is surrounded by dense pine, oak, rhododendron and deodar forests that house wild animals like barking deer, leopard, jackal, langur, red fox, and porcupine among others.

Legend behind the name ‘Ranikhet’

The name Ranikhet literally translates to ‘Queen’s Fields’. The locals tell this legendary tale : ‘A Kumaoni queen, Rani Padmini was enchanted with the green hills around Ranikhet and asked the King to build her a palace there. The King built a grand palace for her where she had wished for. When the queen started living here, the name ‘Ranikhet’ took root.’ There is no trace whatsoever of the palace but the gorgeous lush green environs against the backdrop of the mighty Himalayas sure make the visitor want to believe in the legend.

Climate / Weather in Ranikhet 

Ranikhet has pleasant weather in the summers and gets quite chilly during the winters. The monsoon season starts around June with spectacular dark clouds in the Himalayan ranges. The entire region is then covered in stunning greenery. The temperature falls below freezing point with occasional spells of snowfall in winter.

The best time to visit Ranikhet is when the weather is clear and there’s a chance of savouring grand views of the Himalayan peaks.

Attractions in and around Ranikhet 

I was recommended a walk in Ranikhet and what a memorable time it was! A gentle stroll of around 5kms starting from Ranikhet Club leads towards Chaubatia. On the way, there are many old bungalows from the British times. Majkhali is located around 5-7 kms from Ranikhet and is popular among the locals for its gorgeous sunset views. There are excellent hikes in the forests around Chaubatia that will please the nature lovers.

Ranikhet’s Mall Road starts just past the army grounds and is 3 kms long. Shop for a classy variety of tweeds that are made locally in the workshop.

Jhula Devi Temple

According to the locals, the original Jhula Devi temple in Chaubatia was constructed more than 700 years ago. One can see a number of bells in the temple, as devotees offer bells as a mark of respect once their wishes are fulfilled by the Goddess. Jhula Devi Temple is around 7 kms from Ranikhet and is a popular pilgrimage spot for locals.

Haidakhan Babaji Temple

Haidakhan Babaji Temple is a place of spiritual devotion which was established more than 100 years ago. It is located around 5 kms from Ranikhet and is surrounded by fruit trees with a majestic view of the valley flanked by the mighty Himalayas. The melodious bells and chanting of devotional songs sung in the evenings feels calming. A recommended experience for anyone looking for some peace and quiet.

Chaubatia Gardens

The Chaubatia gardens are a favourite picnic spot for families. The gardens were originally established as a British Sanatorium, and are also home to the Government Fruit Garden. The garden has over 150 varieties of fruits including apricots, apples, peaches, plums.

Apart from the gardens, the biggest charm of Chaubutia is the amazing panoramic views of the snowcapped Himalayan peaks. It is a riot of colours with flowers that bloom during spring, from March to May. There’s also a sunset viewpoint at Chaubatia that promises an unforgettable evening.

KRC Museum

Kumaon Regimental Centre (KRC) Museum was established in the 1970s and is maintained by the Kumaon and Naga Regiments of the Indian Army. The KRC Museum has an excellent collection of memorabilia from past wars and campaigns, and a display of the different weapons used by soldiers.

Upat Golf Course at Kalika

Among the prettiest and highest golf courses of the country, this 9-hole golf course is the crown jewel of Ranikhet! This 1920s gold course is located 5 kms outside Ranikhet near Kalika village and is one of the prime reasons for some visitors for visiting Ranikhet and staying there for a long time.

Although its an army golf course, civilians can also access it by paying a nominal fee. It remains open throughout the year. Even if one doesn’t know how to play golf, the very sight of seeing this beautiful green meadow surrounded by the majestic Himalayas is simply ethereal.

Where to Stay & Eat in Ranikhet

There are cheap places to stay near the Main Bazaar in Ranikhet. Recently, a few old colonial bungalows have been converted into heritage homestays and boutique hotels. For food, it is a good idea to eat at the place where you are staying.

In Ranikhet, one can try Kumaoni food at one of the dhabas in the main market. I ate madua ki roti, bhatt ki churkani, aloo ke gutke, palak ka dubka at one of the eateries that the locals were crowding.

One afternoon, I had run out of places to stay for cheap and randomly started walking out of Ranikhet. Within no time, evening meant that the light started fading rapidly. I had reached around Kalika village and got really lucky to find a ride in a pick-up taxi that was heading to Sitlakhet. It was dark by the time we managed to reach and it was only my good fortune that I managed to save the day!

Sitlakhet is noted for its fruits orchards of peach, plum, apricot, pear. In fact, the fruits that I was enjoying in Ranikhet were mostly grown in Sitlakhet. I had a nice time in the peace and quiet before moving to Almora.

How to Reach Ranikhet?

Delhi to Ranikhet is a distance of 350 km by road. It is a nice, pleasurable drive if one drives down in a car. The nearest railway station is to Ranikhet is Kathgodam which is 70 Kms from Ranikhet.

Read other posts on Uttarakhand :

Sustainable Rural Tourism in Garhwal, Uttarakhand

Attending a Kumaoni Wedding in Kumaon

A Detailed Travel Guide for Chopta, Tungnath, Chandrashila Trek

Failures on the Road : Running in circles, in Kumaon

Join Travelshoebum on Twitter, Instagram and Facebook.

The National Expressway from Ahmedabad to Vadodara was immaculate and even in a Gujarat State Transport Bus, it took only 2 hours to cover the 110 km distance to reach Vadodara. I quickly said hellos to the family, put my bags and set out to explore Vadodara. I must also say thanks to Jitin (from Pushkar, 2014) and Dhaval for showing me around Vadodara. I hope this blog post does a good job of becoming A Guide to Places to Visit in Vadodara (the erstwhile princely state of Baroda).

Introduction to Vadodara

Vadodara is situated on the banks of the Vishwamitri River (Still has around 200 crocodiles) and was originally known as Baroda. It is widely regarded as a cultural town and a industrial hub as well. The city has an interesting folklore and factual anecdote as to why it was named Vadodara : Vad in the local language means the Banyan tree and Vadodara was full of Banyan trees. The British apparently changed the name to Baroda to make it easier for pronunciation. It was renamed to Vadodara in 1974.

Stunning architecture at Laxmi Vilas Palace.

Baroda had an underground drainage line by 1895, and was among one of the first few well planned cities of India. Maharaja Sayajirao III was the first Indian ruler to introduce compulsory and free primary education in 1906. Maharaja Pratap Singh Gaekwad of Baroda State was once considered the 8th richest man in the world.

Among other things, the biggest surprise came for me was when I was informed that the 1871 built Nazarbaug Palace had been torn down and was replaced by a shopping mall. It was a grand structure that also served as Gaekwad’s home (the ruling family of Baroda.)

History of Vadodara

Vadodara was the royal residence of the Gaekwads from 1721 to 1947 : The Gaekwad rule of Vadodara began in 1721 when the Marathas overthrew Mughal control over the city. Peshwa Bajirao I granted the territory as a fief to the Gaekwads. The Peshwas were the ruling leaders of the Maratha Empire.

The Maratha Empire declined by the beginning of the 19th Century and Baroda State was formed. The British recognised the Gaekwad rulers’ independence from the Maratha Empire in exchange of accepting British suzerainty.

A Travel Guide to Must Visit Attractions of Vadodara

Laxmi Vilas Palace (Also Lakshmi Vilas Palace and Lukshmi Vilas Palace)

Laxmi Vilas Palace is an opulent home of the Rulers of Baroda which is built in the Indo-Saracenic style of architecture design. It is set inside a sprawling green ground, and is replete with a golf course with colourful birds strutting around. It was commissioned by Maharaja Sayaji Rao III in 1878 as his residence, and took 12 years to build and was completed in 1890. The architect in charge of designing it was Major Charles Mant.

Entry fee is a steep 225 Rupees and DSLR photography is not allowed at all.

Some interesting features of Laxmi Vilas Palace :

• Lukshmi Villas Palace is four times the size of Buckingham Palace.
• Maharaja Sayaji Rao III named it after his third wife, Rani Laxmibai from Tanjore
• It was built with elevators 130 years ago, a big feat at that time.
• Built at a cost of 180,000 GBP (Pounds).
• It has 170 rooms but was originally built for only 2 people : Laxmi Vilas Palace served as the private residence of the royal couple; Sayajirao Gaekwad III and his wife.
• Amalgamation of designs of different religions : Mughal style Islamic domes, Church-like tower, Hindu and Jain motifs, and Gothic architectural elements are present in different parts of the exterior in Laxmi Vilas Palace (As explained by the staff in the Laxmi Vilas Palace Museum office.)
•  A miniature railway line was constructed by the Maharaja to commute his children between the palace and the school, which was housed in the Fatehsingh Museum.

Inside Laxmi Vilas Palace

Only a few sections of Laxmi Vilas Palace are open for visitors. Namely, 11 exhibits can be seen and with the audio guide make for an interesting tour (Audio guide is included in the 225 Rupee charge). Among the highlights to be noticed in the interiors is the enormous Durbar Hall with Venetian mosaic floor and stained Belgian glass windows. It was decorated when I visited, in celebrations for Ganesh Chaturthi. In the exhibits, do not miss the an armoury collection including Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb’s sword, and six stunning masterpiece paintings by Raja Ravi Varma.

Outdoor photography with phone is allowed; i.e. you can click pictures of the exterior of Laxmi Vilas Palace with your phones but can’t click with dslr cameras. According to the staff, the present Raja has started this rule and began charging INR 15000 for 1 hour of dslr photography of the exterior. I really liked the small shop at the Laxmi Vilas Palace; the office lady there told me that the designs on the cloth, shawls, stoles and bags are personally chosen by the present queen. The prices of the same were quite exorbitant though and I couldn’t bother to buy anything. The lady also informed me that the entire staff is maratha and that the king prefers it that way.

There is also a small café in the Palace premises and I’d highly recommend some chai and snacks here for the regal feel. The office staff handing out audio guides has served in the Palace for over 20 years and a chat with them will tell you a few secrets of Laxmi Vilas Palace! My favourite time at Laxmi Vilas Palace was simply sitting in the gardens overlooking the golf course (a game was in progress) and gazing at the extremely beautiful Palace. The staff also mentioned that the present ruler wants to convert Laxmi Vilas Palace into a heritage hotel and that talks are currently ongoing for the same.

Laxmi Vilas Palace clicked from different sides and angles!

Maharaja Fateh Singh Museum

The Maharaja Fateh Singh Musem is Gaekwad family’s private art and artefacts collection. Among the dazzling collection is a range of Japanese, Indian, Chinese and European art collected by the Maharajas. It is located very close to Laxmi Vilas Palace and should be combined with a trip to the Palace itself.

Entry fee is Rupees 200 and photography is strictly not allowed inside Maharaja Fateh Singh Museum. There’s a spectacular gallery with poignant Gaekwad family portraits made by Raja Ravi Varma. Among other interesting things is a huge turban collection, the world’s smallest locomotive engine (from Baroda railway), and an exquisite collection of prints that look like oil paintings. Maharaja Fateh Singh Museum was originally constructed to function as a school for the Maharaja’s children.

Maharaja Sayajirao University (M S University)

Also known as M S University, the Maharaja Sayajirao University is a highly respected and reputed institute of learning. The M S University is huge and has great heritage value as construction was started in 1879. It was known as Baroda College back then. Baroda College was converted into Maharaja Sayajirao University in 1949, after India’s independence.

Among the salient features of the M S University – The Art Faculty’s Dome is the second largest dome in entire India (The largest is Gol Gumbaz, Bijapur). M S University is most well known for its Archaeological department and the Faculty of Fine Arts. It caters to over 1 lakh students. I was lucky to explore the University with Dhaval who had studied at M S University itself; we walked inside some old corridors and had a great time exploring the old architecture. Highly recommend a stroll in the University campus at your own pace, surely one of the greatest universities in India.

Vadodara Museum (Baroda Museum & Picture Gallery)

Possibly, the biggest collection that I’ve ever seen at a museum. The charming red building of the Baroda Museum & Picture Gallery was constructed in the Indo-Saracenic style in 1894. It lies inside Sayaji Bagh (Sayaji Gardens) and for a visitor not expecting it; may come across as a Church or a Cathedral at the first glance. The entry fees is only 10 Rupees and huge crowds throng the place clicking selfies outside the Baroda Museum building.

I was taken aback when I saw that statues in display in the garden were older than 1000 years and they had been left in the open. There was no glass casing etc and just a small shade on top to protect the statue in the rain. In the few minutes I spent in the garden, I saw kids and elders alike touch the statues. If the authorities are reading this; please make necessary arrangements – the setting for these priceless statues needs to be changed.

Baroda Museum and Picture Gallery is said to have been designed along the lines of the Victoria & Albert Museum in Great Britain. The Museum has artefacts from all over the world, which was once-upon-a-time Maharaja Sayajirao’s personal collection. The galleries have a rich collection of art and textiles from across the world. There is a separate exhibit for archeological finds from different parts of Gujarat and also Mughal miniatures.

Excellent collection in this huge museum ranging from sculptures and artefacts from Japan, Tibet, Nepal, China and Egypt. There’s also a fantastic collection of rocks in the museum. Another fascinating exhibit is of Indian musical instruments and traditional dresses. The piece de resistance of Vadodara Museum is the skeleton of a blue whale that was found washed up at the mouth of the Mahi river in 1972. The skeleton is never-ending; and at 22m is actually so! I was also aware of an Egyptian Mummy in Baroda Museum but am not sure if it still exists.

I am a firm believer that Museums are a great place to learn more about the history, heritage, culture, arts and crafts and if you do too; then keep aside a comfortable 3 hours to explore the Baroda Museum & Picture Gallery. Photography is not allowed inside the museum.

Kirti Mandir

Kirti Mandir is the mausoleum of Vadodara’s rulers, and was built by Maharaja Sayajirao Gaekwad in 1936. At the time of building, it cost approx. 5 Lakh Rupees in construction. The buildings are constructed in perfect symmetry and look very imposing. Alas, it was a Sunday and Kirti Mandir was closed for a visit.

We were lucky to admire its exterior beauty. I had been recommended this place by Mr. Zaveri (my Facebook friend and author of 7 books on wall paintings). The insides of Kirti Mandir are painted with colourful murals and scenes from Mahabharata and Bhagvad Gita. They were painted by Nandlal Bose, a renowned modern artist whose work was declared a ‘national treasure’.

Sayaji Bagh also called Sayaji Garden

Sayaji Bagh is an enormous green park in the heart of Vadodara city. It is spread over an area of over 100 acres and is home to more than 90 varieties of trees. Other museums are inside the garden itself; the planetarium, zoo and a vintage looking toy train are also there in Sayaji Bagh. It is Baroda’s favourite place for going out on a sunday, especially for the middle class with kids. The toy train is a huge draw!

The planetarium in a corner of the Garden complex has a show in English at 5 pm and Hindi at 6 pm. There’s also a zoo in Sayaji Bagh; I saw a few spotted deers and crocodiles while strolling towards the exit gate.

Sayaji Bagh Garden is the oldest and the largest among all the gardens in Vadodara city. Parking space is a problem when entering Sayaji Bagh because I remember there was nowhere to park the bike outside, and all the spaces were bursting. Best to come on a weekday and combine it with a visit to the Baroda Museum and Picture Gallery.

Tambekar Wada

Honestly, I’d not heard about Tambekar Wada before setting foot in Vadodara. It was a random name I had noted down which became a must visit after my meeting with Mr. Pradip Zaveri. It is a typical Maratha Mansion which was the mansion of Bhau Tambekar (Vitthal Khanderao) who was the Diwan of Baroda from 1849 to 1854. It was Sunday and I was skeptical whether Tambekar Wada would be open for a visit or not. It was a moment of good luck when the lady in-charge agreed to let me in because I had come faraway from Rajasthan!

Lying in an obscure-looking lane are some of India’s most beautiful murals made in the 19th century. Tambekar Wada is under Archaeological Survey of India (ASI). As we took the stairs to get to the first floor, we noticed that every inch of the mansion’s walls, doors, and ceilings were covered with frescoes and murals. The murals range from Indian mythology to everyday life and historical events.

Check : The Havelis of Shekhawati

Walls depict paintings showcasing scenes from Ramayana and Mahabharata; and scenes of local and European life can also be noticed. The ceiling of the bigger hall is ornate and the side walls are all covered in colourful paintings; albeit in a damaged state. It is an identical scenario as we ascend to the first floor – Similar room layout and paintings. The stand out feature are the doors in the square rooms on both the floors; the doors are adorned with beautiful murals in a unique style. Please check the pictures for reference.

Tomb of Qutub-ud-din Muhammad Khan

Special thanks to Dhaval for showing me this monument. Since I had only associated Baroda as a city with a predominantly Hindu heritage; the mausoleum came as a big surprise. It is also known as Hazira Maqbara and contains the graves of Qutub-ud-din Muhammad Khan (Prince Salim’s (Jahangir’s) tutor) and his son Naurang Khan. Naurang Khan held important positions in Gujarat during the reign of Emperor Akbar.

The structure was situated in a lovely garden lined with tall palm trees. Inside the mausoleum, the jaali work was intricate and beautiful calligraphy was written on the walls. The exterior dome of the mausoleum was huge and the Tomb looked like a peaceful place. As we took a walk around the main domed structure, I noticed a number of tombs near the garden.

According to a ASI signboard : Qutub-ud-din Muhammad Khan was the uncle of Mirza Aziz Koka, who was the foster brother of Akbar and was Governor of Gujarat thrice between 1573 & 1583.

Railway Heritage Park (Pratap Nagar Railway Station)

Opposite to Pratap Nagar Railway Station is Goya Gate where the Railway Heritage Park is located. Pratapnagar station was earlier known as Goya Gate.

The garden is a nice place to relax and walk around the Railway Heritage Park. There is a model narrow gauge station at its centre, complete with tracks, signals, lamp-posts and even a couple of carriages. It was set up the railway division to commemorate completion of 150 years of arrival of the railways at Vadodara. The written history takes a visitor through the timeline from 1853 – the birth of Indian railways, arrival of train in Baroda in 1861 and opening of Vadodara railway division in 1956.

Dhundiraj Ganpati Temple

Supposed to be the oldest temple in Vadodara, temple of Dhundiraj Ganesh was quite difficult to find. It was situated in the Wadi area of the city and looked like a Rajasthani Haveli from the outside. The wooden columns and panels in the inside of the temple were very pretty. What I was really interested were the paintings in the temple but the door was locked. Upon asking around, someone directed us to the home of the family that owned the temple.

We spoke to Mr. Manral; he explained that the family trust owned the temple and that we would need to submit a written request if we wanted to see the paintings inside. Then the trust members would take a decision. I thanked him for the information, but we couldn’t actually see much at the temple. Dhundiraj Ganpati Temple is more than 170 years old and the entire building is made of wood, as informed by Mr. Mairal.

Sri Aurobindo Niwas

While going from the new city to the old city (Wadi area) in Vadodara, Dhaval’s eyes spotted the red structure of Aurobindo Niwas. Sadly, entry to the house was closed due to it being Sunday. Most readers would be able to identity Sri Aurobindo by the Aurobindo Ashram in Pondicherry. Aurobindo Ghose was a freedom fighter and also a philosopher. Aurobindo Niwas feels like a very spiritual and calm place. There’s a library in the premises and also a dedicated space for meditation.

According to a local’s account – Aurobindo Ghose stayed for 13 years in Vadodara; he was a Private Secretary to Maharaja Sayajirao and Professor of English in Baroda Collage.

Eating in Baroda

Baroda has a unique taste in food mostly because of the amalgamation of the Maratha rule and the local Gujarati population. Missal Pav and Sev Usal at Mahalaxmi is famous and Tam Tam at Shriram TamTamwala. For taking back home, Jagdish Farsan Shop has a ‘Lila Chevda’ made from papaya.

2-3 days are ideal for exploring Vadodara and take in the sights. I went around on my own and was really lucky to have locals show me around Vadodara. The Vadodara Municipal Corporation’s (VMC) Vadodara Darshan Bus is a recommended way to explore Vadodara in a comfortable manner. The bus has a fixed route and takes the tourists to 6 points of interest which cover the major attractions. The charges are also very reasonable at 100 Rupees.

If you can manage an entry; The Maharaja Pratapsinh Coronation Gymkhana, popularly known as the Polo Club of Baroda is a must visit. I am blessed with a Club Card of an esteemed club in Jaipur and hence had the privilege of visiting Polo Club in Vadodara!

Apart from the places mentioned above; other important and popular sights in Vadodara are : Iskcon Temple, EME Temple (Also called Dakshina Murty Temple) and Sursagar Lake with a huge statue of Shiva in the middle. Central Library is another must visit in Vadodara (there’s apparently a glass floor to walk on!).

Swami Vivekananda Memorial is another place one can visit. Vadodara has night vegetable markets and there’s also a food market which is open till 4-5 in the morning! What a surprise!! Also worth a quick visit are Nyaya Mandir; a fine Indo-Saracenic building, now used as a Court of Law. Maharaja Khanderao Market Building is a must see for the elaborate entrance and the properly laid out vegetable market that is fully functional even today.

Liked this post and my explorations? Let me know in the comments below. 

Join Travelshoebum on Twitter, Instagram and Facebook.