We landed in Istanbul and travelled across Turkey to places like Trabzon, Van, Gaziantep, Izmir, Selçuk, Antalya and traversed across numerous towns and villages in the Turkish countryside. If you are planning a trip to Turkey, here are the links for the posts.

Istanbul : Tips for Backpacking

Trabzon : Travels on the Black Sea Coast

Van : A City of All Day Breakfasts

Gaziantep : UNESCO approved eating!

Photographs and Memories from Travels across Turkey

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On our last night in the forest cottage in Kasar Devi, we were invited for a bottle of wine by our only neighbours. It was a poignant moment when the lady remarked that they had also come to Kasar Devi for a few weeks or months and in the present day it had been 18 years of them living in Kasar Devi! We had decided to stay on in Kasar Devi and celebrate Holi festival with the family of the cottage owner and in retrospect I can safely say it turned out to be an unforgettable holi celebration. I began the difficult task of trying to find a personal cab from Kasar Devi to Delhi, at a reasonable cost. We gathered that the Volvos to Kullu-Manali were operational from Delhi and I decided to tackle one problem at a time and to just focus on the returning to Delhi part.

I got lucky with my search and we reached Delhi safely in a Toyota Innova that drove the almost 400 km distance from Kasar Devi to Delhi for only 4000 Rupees. The 5-6 days in Delhi felt quite troublesome after spending the previous months in Kasar Devi without a mask. I quickly started my research of getting out of Delhi by calling the private Volvo guys and figured that since most of the buses were going empty, it would be prudent to choose a weekday to leave for Kullu Valley. We went out sparingly in Delhi and it was quite cumbersome to go around with the stringent mask wearing and constant talks of Covid-19 in the air. In the meanwhile, a wonderful development came by. Rajeshwar bhai wasn’t keen on random folks staying for a few days at his homestay and we decided on a mutually agreeable price for staying at Yuthok Homestay (his Home).

I was keen on leaving from Delhi at the earliest and my Volvo guy had promised to book me in a bus that had hardly 5-6 passengers thereby reducing the risk. Anyhow, the bus idea never came to pass and we left for Kullu in a car with a friend. This was by far the safest way of travel at that time and we left from Delhi early on Saturday morning in the first week of April and made good time. We had chai at home and only stopped for a late breakfast/early lunch (or brunch, if you prefer) somewhere on a bypass near Chandigarh. It was a Punjabi dhaba by the name of Lovely Dhaba and the food turned out to be incredibly tasty and freshly made.

We ordered paneer and aloo pyaz paranthas made in a tandoor and served with a dollop of fresh white butter, I had also asked for dall to go with it and a freshly made green chutney was also served. We were all quite hungry and figured that it made sense to eat a heavy meal and just stop later in the afternoon for a chai. We relished the food with gusto and asked for seconds; and even requested for a glass of lassi. The lassi turned out to be super amazing and was given in a true Patiala glass. I went and thanked the owner at the end of the meal. I made a note of the approximate location in my mind to make sure of eating at the same Lovely Dhaba whenever I crossed this region next time in a self-driven vehicle.

The weather had already become quite hot post noon and we were relieved to be beginning the ascent to Bilaspur. The road was fairly empty and we entered Himachal Pradesh without any checking or testing and paid the entry fee of INR 40. We would periodically roll down the windows and take the fresh air in to make sure we don’t get very tired. At around 230 pm, it was decided to make a short stop and we got lucky when a sugarcane cart appeared to our left under the shade of a big tree. The young kid at the cart made fresh sugarcane juice for us and seasoned it with fresh mint and lemon.

It turned out to be a welcome break to stretch our legs and we resumed our journey again and felt the sun mellow down a bit. After crossing Mandi, we took the recommended Kandi-Kataula road and loved the scenic landscapes. The air started getting colder as we ascended to Kandi, it was delightful to see the rhododendron flowers still in bloom. A solitary shop near Kandi had freshly made rhododendron juice and we tasted a glass each. The rhododendron juice was also available for sale and I bought a bottle of the concentrate for some 220 Rupees. It was a lot more expensive than the one we had recently bought in Uttarakhand which was for only 100-120 Rupees.

Also read : Raison to Jana hike

It was about 5 pm and we were enjoying the landscapes on this single lane road which was a far cry from the dust of the main highway to Manali. We joined the main road near Bajaura and made quick time to finally make it to Yuthok Homestay in Raison at 7 pm. It was almost dark and Thakur bhai was there to welcome us, with a mask of course! I had called him to update about our location many times during the day and he knew we were super hungry and were looking forward to dinner! We put our bags in the cottage and I immediately searched for my jacket. It was mildly cold and the weather felt like a welcome change from the hot winds of Delhi.

We were all quite tired and after freshening up and sitting in the open for a while, went upstairs to the dining table once the food was ready. Everyone said our hellos to the family and Nilza (Rajeshwar Thakur’s 6 year old daughter) came and said hi to us as well! Dinner was simple yet hearty and was served in vintage kansa plates and matching utensils. We thanked the family for letting us come from Delhi and assured them of our safety since we had not met anyone from outside in the last 2-3 days. The meals at Yuthok Homestay were always freshly made (mostly with farm grown vegetables cultivated by aunty herself) and were so varied and delicious that I ended up gaining 5 kilos over a period of 5 months!

It felt colder as the evening passed; we chatted with Thakur bhai after dinner and kept a safe distance from each other in the open garden. After all this is exactly how Covid-19 was spreading when people were not taking the simple precautions. After a short walk in the orchard, we went to the cottage and slept. It was a feeling of contentment and safety; of being relieved to get away from the danger zone also known as Delhi. We had reached our intended destination without any untoward trouble and whatever happened next with regards to the closing of the state borders would not matter.

The Cottage – Yuthok Homestay

We slept blissfully and all the effects of the long journey were forgotten next morning. We took the bigger and warmer blankets since it was still quite cold. It felt like proper spring weather and the days felt nice and pleasant in the sun and a jacket was always required. A lot of effort was required to get out of the cosy blanket in the lovely cottage when it was morning. A part of the cottage was the vintage building that housed Dorje Yudon Yuthok, a lady of Tibetan origin. She lived here in the 1960s for a couple of months and paid the family in 2 vintage carpets from Tibet! That, in short is why the place has been named Yuthok Homestay.

The cottage itself is a huge space and is nicely made and tastefully decorated. On the left side, there are many windows that see a waterfall from afar and in the front a solitary window opens to a view of the green orchard that is also owned by the family. The sound of the waterfall is a constant music to the ears! There are numerous settees in the cottage with a reading/writing table in one corner. The low seating arrangement is embellished by traditional Buddhist carpets and became the preferred space for us to sit and work, and chill after evening. There are two extra single beds on the left side and a cupboard for long term stayers to keep their stuff. The beds are made from walnut wood and it feels very nice and homely to live in this cottage.

There is a big television in the cottage which comes in handy when we wanted to watch movies on a big screen! Even though the whole idea of a television doesn’t sound appealing at all; the fact remains that it is fun to cosy up on cold afternoons and evenings and watching a movie is a great mood changer. The cottage door opens to a chorten and a tall prayer flag (Darchog) which is the highlight of this home. There is also a small garden with chairs and a table where the chorten is located and a colourful array of different flowers also grow in front of the cottage. The chairs are setup with a view of the waterfall on the other side of the road and the table is two tree trunks kept together. It is a nice mix of modern and rustic and would soon become our favourite spot.

I thank Rajeshwar in the morning and he says long term guests minimize the chances of infection so this arrangement suited them as well. I went to the kitchen and made chai for us; aunty gave a small kettle which kept the tea super hot. The floor of the kitchen was quite cold and I made a mental note to wear socks in the morning from now on. The sun came from behind the mountain at about 8 am and the it surely felt nice and warm. It is a very happy and peaceful vibe with the chorten and we sit on its step to soak in the sunshine.

The aroma of shukpa (dried juniper) pervaded our nostrils and put our happiness quotient on another level. After all we were in a Buddhist home and aunty had put the dried juniper on coals from the tandoor bukhari. It is akin to a traditional ritual when we burn these herbs for good spirits and clearing the energy from the house. The smell is very sweet and aunty loves it when we tell her that we love the aroma of shukpa. She tells us she will hang the small utensil near our cottage from next time onwards so that we can enjoy the fragrant aroma!

We enjoy the chai and then spread our yoga mats in the open space. The filtering sunlight is just about perfect to make sure it is warm enough to get in the yoga mood! The sound of a waterfall from the other side of the road is nice as a background music; not too loud and not too soft – just right to indulge less in conversation and more in listening to the sounds of nature. Breakfast time at home is 9 am and we rush to fill our tummies. Normal work-days for work-from-home and as a freelancer with less assignments coming for travel writing I had decided to focus more on my art and craft platform ‘Indiocal’.

The network at Yuthok Homestay is excellent and it is a welcome change to have proper network after a few months of barely manageable internet connectivity in the forest cottage in Kasar Devi. That, plus a proper postal address with India Post services meant I could actually get stuff delivered from artisans across India to Raison, Kullu and the big size cottage meant I had ample room to experiment with photography for these products. Even though that meant I would spend less time on my blog and maybe put the publishing of the book on the back burner but then life doesn’t work according to plan and this seemed to be the way forward.

2020 hadn’t turned out to be a great year financially and I am glad in retrospect that it didn’t, as it enabled me to start the craft platform where I am able to work directly with the artisans to make a difference at the grassroots level. At Yuthok Homestay, I laid out the soft sheep wool blanket that I had procured from Uttarakhand and converted it into a rug. It looked nice and provided a cosy feel with the cold temperatures.

Spring in Raison, Kullu Valley

After gently easing into a sort-of routine during the weekdays; we were ecstatic to be able to feel the joys of spring on short walks in Raison. Rajeshwar bhai and Nilza led us to their surrounding orchards and to make us more familiar with walking trails in the vicinity. We were spellbound with the sight of blooming flowers in shades of purple, pink, yellow, white and red while every inch of land was covered by grass. It was an otherworldly experience to notice the bare pecan nut tree bear the first leaves and progress to get so dense so as to become the regular shaded space once the weather turned hotter in June.

The nearest walk led us to a path that was surrounded by greenery and had a shaded canopy; it was to quickly become the most desired escape whenever we wanted to go somewhere. Since it was complete lockdown across India and Himachal Pradesh was no exception, we were not supposed to go out of home.

This is when we realised the full joys of living at Yuthok Homestay in Raison; and life in Kullu Valley in general. With the limited population that Kullu Valley has, it seemed that the Police didn’t really have to resort to being strict. We had ample space in the orchard to sit and work and could go for walks whenever we liked. Of course, the presence of us outsiders was a bit disconcerting for the locals at first but they soon realised that we lived in Raison and did not pose the ‘outsider’ threat of coronavirus.

There were still apple blossoms blooming on the trees that grew on a higher altitude and it was a pleasant surprise to come across those on random walks. We tried our best to stay in the little bubble that we had at Yuthok Homestay and had to carefully choose our conversations as every other phone call seemed fraught with terrifying news with the pandemic raging across India.

We weren’t missing eating out at all courtesy of the special meals being made almost everyday by Sangey bhabhi (Thakur’s wife) and then aunty took over once bhabhi went to Manali. The secret to the incredibly tasty food was the fact that aunty grew vegetables like potatoes, onions, garlic, broccoli, zucchini, peas on their farm space and everything was cooked fresh. Over the course of 5 months, I gained about 4-5 kilos! Among the traditional Lahauli dishes served at Yuthok Homestay were shunali(Lahauli pasta), tingmo, momos, thukpa, siddu and patrode (Kulluvi dishes). I had never really been a fan of Tibetan food till now but then this was the first time I was actually living with a family long-term and they used atta rather than maida.

A most joyful accompaniment to these dishes would be fresh chutney made on a stone silbatta with whatever fresh was available at any given time. Once work time was over, there would be days when we would play sequence (board game) with a glass each of Morpheus Xo. The secret recipe for the chutneys was fresh garlic and onion leaves, one dry rhododendron flower, some pecan nuts (from the family tree) and the masala magic of the stone silbatta!

From someone who would almost always say no to momos, I transformed into a momo-lover gorging on paneer momos at Yuthok that are the best in the entire world! Whenever it rained, Rajeshwar bhai would entice us with tales of Thukpa (or Trultu Tsati) being soul food for cold evenings. Over the course of 5 months we realised it became cold in the mountains at a moments notice and that it would become just the perfect weather for thukpa! I had taught Nilza the art of jasoosi (is there really an equivalent word in english for aimless jasoosi) by observing the goings-on in the home and kitchen and giving us the news about what was being made for dinner.

There was no going to school for Nilza and her two cousins who lived in the adjacent home; and all three of them would create quite a ruckus. Aunty had warned us beforehand to not let the 3 of them together in the cottage; Nilza’s antics were the maximum we could manage. As Nilza became more familiar with us, she would come unannounced and demand to play her favourite songs so that she could dance! Sometimes she would announce that all of us had to dance together and that would become like the funniest sight ever.

When bhabhi had gone to Manali; the onus of Nilza’s classes was to be shared by everyone (including us) since uncle and Rajeshwar bhai were getting busier in the orchard. These little things made us feel like a part of the family when we organised a small outdoor lunch for uncle, aunty and had a gala time with a cool breeze blowing under the shade of the pecan nut tree!

We were four of us at Yuthok; our friend had joined us just in time when the lockdown began in Delhi and he was quarantined for 3-4 days to make doubly sure we were not responsible for inadvertently jeopardising our surroundings. When the cases in North India were rising, it was a cause of concern in Kullu Valley too; and the local village festivities were halted as well. Only after the worst of the pandemic was over, then the villagers congregated once for an important matter to be discussed for a decision to be made by the devta.

In a theme common across India, making traditional dishes involved a lot of effort in making and thats one of the prime reasons everybody wants to stick to making dal, chawal, roti, sabji everyday but thats not the case at Yuthok! When the number of guests is less; there are more chances of a traditional dish being made. Aunty’s persimmon pickle is legendary and after relishing the pickle with gusto for 3-4 days; aunty safely hid it to save it for the other guests who would visit later in the year. To not feel left out; there was ample supply of pear pickle, peach pickle and lingdu pickle – when the season of lingdu arrived.

After 2 odd weeks of getting acquainted with Raison, we started going to the nearby orchards with a dhurrie and yoga mats and sat under the shade of the apple trees to make it a ‘work from orchard’ afternoons. Invariably, Bella (neighbour’s dog who usually was at Yuthok) would accompany us and it would result in a very happy time with never a dull moment.

After a week or two; we realised that it was possible to go out from 10 am to 1 pm and that enabled me to dispatch the pending orders of Indilocal via India Post. The lockdown was said to be quite strict and we heard stories that tourists caught violating the covid norms were penalised with novel ways of punishment; manning traffic lights! Repeated offenders were supposed to serve in hospitals as a community service. I didn’t bother to verify the news and had to be content with the fact that we could always go sauntering on the village paths through the orchards. We were supposed to stay clear of the main road and now that everyone in the village knew we were living like locals, there was no apprehension for them as well.

At Yuthok, breakfast would be served at about 9 am; lunch at around 2 pm and dinner at 9 pm. I had taken over the duties for morning and evening tea since the masala chai made by our friend proved to be too hot for everyone! It was still quite cold in the end of April and aunty had suggested I take tea in a kettle to make sure it didn’t get cold by the time we ended up drinking it. In the evening, it would be lovely to play games like chupam chupai, pakdam pakdai, musical chairs and tippi-tippi-tap with al four of us, Nilza and the two cousins. It took us back to being kids and we would fall and some of us would cheat to try and win and our bodies would pain from the falls; but now as I write this after almost a year of the experience – I am reminded what a wonderful time it was!

Me and Nilza would play saanp-seedi (snakes and ladders) and although Nilza would try her best to make sure I won some of the games; I would lose miserably and she soon got bored of winning! We tried carrom once or twice but it was a no competition as I was far superior and then the carrom board was nowhere to be seen for the next 4 months.

Yuthok Homestay family had numerous orchards and one of them was located higher up in the mountains. They had also kept a cow there and we would have a bounty of milk products like paneer, curd and heavenly ghee! The paneer and churpi (used in thukpa) at Yuthok is home-made and that is the secret ingredient for the incredibly tasty and fresh feel. As soon as spring arrived, aunty had sown peas, garlic, onions, chillies etc and within no time we would be assisting in harvesting fresh peas in May.

A juice bar, ‘LPS’ was within walking distance for us and whenever we felt bored, we would take a walk to drink apple/plum/pear juice in the serene environs of LPS. It is quite interesting to observe human behaviour; we are able to find joy in small things if we are unable to undertake big tasks for pleasure.

As the days turned into weeks and then into months; it became a sort of a Friday evening ritual for us to walk through the fields of Raison to then go up to one Harihar sweets shop in Chatanseri to pick up piping hot samosas with their (now famous) green chutney made with coriander, green chillies and fresh mint leaves. We would rush back to the path of the orchards and sit somewhere overlooking the road to enjoy the samosas like there was no tomorrow. Once, we were also able to convince bhabhi and aunty to send Nilza with us and even though she thought the green chutney was too spicy – even now we fondly remember that time when the simple joy of eating samosas made us look forward to Friday evening!

Since we knew it wouldn’t always be possible to go to LPS every time we wanted a juice fix; we had got a crate of seabuckthorn juice. It proved to be a refreshing drink post lunch as the weather was at its warmest at about 3 pm and made for an excellent cocktail mixer later in the summer. We shifted places with the weather; earlier we would seek sunshine while having tea in the open air seating in the garden just outside the cottage; and then as the months passed we would seek shade whilst sitting on the chorten or even relaxing on the swing located under the pecan nut tree. Evening time almost always meant surreal shades and hues in the sky on cloudy and stormy days.

Just a week before the actual lockdown started, we would sometimes venture to Naggar to a particular café for their delightful cheesecake. The cheesecake love affair only lasted for a few days as the extra-smart owner once served and packed stale cheesecake for us and upon me telling him – ‘It was less than perfect and that it created trouble for everyone’s tummies’ said that the cheesecake was perfect and that maybe we didn’t get the right taste! Needless to say we have never entered the said café again inspite of an entire year of now living in Kullu Valley. After an year, we have learnt that the safest bet for simple and fresh cheesecake in Kullu Valley is at Valentino’s where all of Kullu seems to come at-least once every week.

Tingmo (steamed bread) at Yuthok are usually served for breakfast with a seasonal vegetable. They are nice and plump; made with atta and steamed to perfection. These tingmo’s are a far cry from the blobs of maida that are usually served in restaurants in the name of tingmo. One of the times while enjoying tingmo, I remark that I would like to get a tee-shirt with ‘I love Tingmo’ written on it! One of the days when it has rained and the weather is even nicer, we go walking to the Beas riverbank on the other side of Raison. Our days here are characterised by morning yoga where sometimes Nilza would join us.

I had carried some pulses and herbs from Uttarakhand and those came to create a good change at Yuthok. There was black bhatt ki dall and jambu masala; bhabhi made the bhatt ki dall so nicely that even the Uttarakhandi locals would have been surprised with the perfect taste! Kullvi folks aren’t exactly known for their taste buds in terms of sweet dishes and although I had known this; the feeling was reinforced and after trying the sweets at Chandralok once or twice, I figured it was easier for me to occasionally make a sweet dish. It was by a stroke of luck that I had carried black rice and since it is savoured in small quantities, I was able to make black rice kheer thrice for the entire household. After all, the ghee was excellent and the milk was full fat cream – all it required was slow cooking and the black rice kheer turned out to be quite awesome, with a nutty flavour.

Early morning yoga with Nilza was the funnest; she would first take one of the mats and copy all the yoga poses nicely. She would giggle and make everyone laugh while the meditation session was on. She would continue with her antics and create some new exercises and poses. Sometimes for breakfast, there would be bhaturu’s stuffed with green soybean (grown on the family farm). One of the weekends, our friends created painted artwork and a signboard for Yuthok Homestay. In the meanwhile, Nilza was not to be left behind and painted some pine cones. I tried a paint brush for the first time in my life and painted something on a stone! The LPS juice bottles made for nice planters and after getting painted in a light shade of blue looked very nice.

Once when we had gone for a drive, I had spotted a board ‘Salasar Dhaba’ – Sikar wale and immediately called the phone number. The owner was from Shekhawati itself and one day we decided to surprise the Lahaulis with Rajasthani food and drove to pick dal bati churma from Salasar dhaba. It kept raining intermittently & then remained stormy for 3-4 days, subsequently leading to snowfall in Manali in the end of April. On the same weekend we ended up going for a day hike to Kaisdhar accompanied with Rajeshwar bhai; there was snow on the hike and the last climb to the top of Chambagarh was quite an adventure. The views of the snow clad mountains were epic and the packed lunch felt like a nice picnic in the green meadows of Kaisdhar.

When the fruits were ripe, it felt like an everyday feast. First came the plums, then the apricots and peaches; then the pears, then apples, and followed by kiwi and persimmons. Ice-cream making was fun and the lucha plum jam received a great response from readers and followers across India.

From eating rajma chawal, to going on drives to the impeccably green Lug Valley, to playing sequence, gorging on siddu with chutney & ghee, picnics in the orchard house of the Thakur family, to asking Nilza for strawberries from her farm, enticing aunty to make her special kadhi pakora, watching the pecan nut tree turn from leafless to shade giving in the summer heat, going on ice-cream and juice walks in the ’10 day summer’, reading vintage books from Rajeshwar bhai’s collection, eating broccoli paranthas, going on riverside picnics, gossiping with aunty, uncle, Thakur, bhabhi and Nilza, making sorbets and ice-creams and being adventurous enough to start eating ice-cream with aunty in breakfast – Yuthok Homestay started feeling so much like home that we figured that we could live forever in Kullu Valley and have ultimately started living in a home only 4 kms from Yuthok!

Living at Yuthok provided me enough spaces for impromptu shooting for indilocal products like rugs & dhurries, paintings etc. At first the joy was in seeing flowers bloom, then it was to observe the weather transform from spring to summer and then progress to lush greenery in the monsoon. Finally when we left in September, it was the fag end of the monsoon and autumn chill was the predominant feel in the weather.

‘You can check out, but you can never leave.’

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Also, the theory of Chettinad food being spicy was also turned on its head after a few meals; the spice levels being quite mild and the use of spices was to flavour the food in a balanced manner than to make it overpowering to the palate! Isn’t this what travel is all about? To let us experience for real what we have only read so far.

After about an year and a half of ‘living’ in the mountains; spending last winter in Kasar Devi, Uttarakhand – and then the next year in Kullu Valley; we were really missing the raw feel of travelling in unfamiliar territory and thereby ended up booking tickets to Chennai. At the outset; it felt like a sea change upon landing in Tamil Nadu. The weather was comparatively mild in Pondicherry and Auroville and that sort of allowed us to somehow adjust to the unusually hot weather in March.

The drive from Pondicherry to Chettinad was memorable as it was overcast the entire day and that turned the countryside into a veritable shade of green. We left from Pondicherry at about 8 am after a quick breakfast of idli, sambar vadas from a roadside stall. On one of the short stops, it was nice to sip sweet tender coconut water and bite into chunks of plump sugarcane sticks being sold on the road.

It started pouring as we neared Tiruchirappalli, and it made for an excellent stop at a small coffee shop on the way – it advertised Kumbakonam degree coffee and it definitely had a unique strong flavour to the steaming mugs of coffee. We saw men and women working in the submerged paddy fields and as we neared Visalam, I had a short glimpse of a fort on a rocky outcrop and made a mental note of asking more about it.

We were shown the way to the palatial Chettinad Room and informed that lunch was ready to be served in the aptly named ‘Sapadu Shala’, (literally food room). The welcome drink Chukku kaapi made with dry ginger and palm jaggery was tantalising in taste. Lunch was served in a banana leaf and included a delicious array of dishes that made me wish I had a bigger appetite / stomach!

The Sapadu Shala was housed in a traditional Chettiar kitchen and it was a memorable sight to notice that traditional brass utensils were used for cooking as well as for decor to provide an authentic experience of a Chettinad mansion. The dishes served are homemade lemon pickle, onion pachadi, kar paavakai varuval (bitter gourd fritters), podalangai poriyal (stir fry snake gourd), kodamilagai mandi (capsicum+garlic mix), pookose poriyal (cauliflower stir-fry), vazhakkai varuval (raw banana snack), nei sadham (ghee rice), aavarakai sambar (broad beans sambar), sundavatha kulambu (bitter berries mix), rasam, curd and payasam.

My biggest and most pleasant surprise at Visalam was the abundance of greenery in the outdoor spaces and the riot of bougainvillea blooms in different colours like white, purple, red, pink, yellow (maybe I missed a few other colours!). The flowers spread like a carpet on the grass and with the breeze blowing in the open air courtyard spread bouts of happiness. I spotted eclectic cast iron chairs in the ‘garden café’ – the usual haunt for breakfast at Visalam.

One of the doors opened to bring forth the sight of the swimming pool and after the longest break largely caused to covid; it called for a short tryst in the welcoming cool waters. The sunset colours were most epic as we climbed up on one of the rooftops for a better view. As night fell, the sound of cicadas filled the air reminding us that we were in a palatial home alright; with the right mix of nature’s gifts.

Siva (staff at Visalam) charted out next day’s plan and since the weather was excellent for the time being, we decided to go on a leisurely heritage walk across Kanadukathan. The staff at Visalam is mostly employed locally and it is delightful to hear their anecdotes while they narrate the stories. I was astounded at the grandness of the Chettiar homes (built between 1850 to 1950) and when Siva pointed out that some of the homes were so huge that 1 home covered an entire street; I had to actually go back and check every street to confirm the same and it indeed turned out to be true.

Some of the mansions owned by the Chettiars had 60 odd rooms (a few even boast of 100 rooms) and a typical mansion would have a garden and their own well. The Chettiar mansions were opulent with use of teak, chandeliers and glass from Burma, Belgium and Murano (Italy) respectively and a hallmark of these houses was the intricate wooden work on the doors, pillars and even on the ceiling.  

A common theme among the mansions was that almost all of them seemed to be uninhabited. Siva took us across to a mansion that was in a family dispute and had an immaculately maintained half part of the house while the other half was in a derelict and crumbling condition. We also came across village ponds with temples constructed around them that served as water sources in the earlier days and also in the present times with well maintained clean water.

Evening was fast approaching and even though we felt like continuing the walk; the lure of fresh filter coffee was bait enough for us to return to Visalam. From 4 to 6-630 pm in the evening and 7 to 10 am in the morning, Geetha (staff at Visalam) is in charge of tea and coffee and I have no hesitation in saying that the filter coffee and masala tea at Visalam was the best during our entire Tamil Nadu trip.

Dinner was served under the skies by the pool and was an exotic mix of traditional ingredients made in a fusion style – all thanks to the chefs and Siva. The attention to detail was so immaculate and the experience so nicely personalised, I was compelled to ask Siva if there was a menu for guests or if he was a champion in reading their minds and knowing what they wanted to eat! It is the norm to eat a little more than usual when you are in Chettinad and that necessitated a walk around the pool. After gazing at the stars for a while, we decided to call it a night and slept in the cozy four-post bed looking at the Burma teak ceiling.

We woke up and rushed to get our dose of morning chai and filter coffee and ended up walking bare-feet in the lawn while listening to birdsong. It is delightfully relaxing and while Siva has made a hectic to-see list for the day; I am mentally prepared to take it slow. We have a light breakfast of the usual idli, podi dosa, uttapam, ragi upma and leave at 10 am.

What to see in Chettinad?

Athangudi Palace – Athangudi Periya Veedu

Hardly 10 odd minutes drive from Kanadukathan, the Athangudi Palace is a stunning Chettiar mansion with a dazzling hall. There are 2 young women at the entrance who ask for a 50 Rupee entry fee but language issues mean I couldn’t really ask them about the history of the Palace and resign myself to internet research for more details. Most of the rooms of the Periya Veedu are closed but it is the main hall that is the highlight here; and it comes as no surprise that it is a popular shooting location.

Athangudi Tiles

The defining feature of the mansions of Chettinad is the use of exclusively handmade tiles made in Athangudi and our next stop was to visit a tile maker. I spotted a tour group bus outside their premises and the eagerness of one of the managers to get us to ‘make our own tiles’ rather than simply explaining how the tiles were made meant we went for a quick perusal by ourselves and figured the different stages of the designing of these unique handmade tiles. The Athangudi tiles come with colourful patterns and are used on the floors, on the walls or even on the ceiling!

Sri Solai Aandavar Temple

It was nice to visit a temple in this part of the country and observe the rich architecture. There were a lot of locals also visiting the temple and the shaded part was a welcome break from the relentless sun.

Visalam Owners House, Kottaiyur

Aachi (Visalam House’s owner) is wonderful to talk to and she made sure we were shown nook and corner of the grand house. The hall had a grand ceiling decorated with yalis (mythical creature) and the inner courtyard with majestic round pillars made with Burma teak. She asked for a buttermilk to be served to us to serve as a coolant. Aachi affectionately means – grandmother.

Murukku Factory

This place in Kottaiyur was very authentic and ladies were frying murukku on firewood and making other sweets and snacks. We bought a packet of freshly packed murukku and wondered what all did they make! Later, after coming back Siva remarked that the ladies also made adirasam (a traditional sweet in Tamil Nadu.)

Karaikudi Cotton Weavers

Chettinad and Karaikudi region have a rich history of cotton weaving on handloom. We visited one of the cotton weavers and saw the excellent quality of sarees they wove.

Karaikudi Antique Market

A cluster of shops on the Muneeswaran Kovil street, Kallukatti in Karaikudi is more popularly known as the Karaikudi Antique market courtesy of the stuff sold coming from Chettiar mansions. The collection in some of the shops is excellent but the prices are quite inflated. Honestly, I think the shops have understood the game and quote 20 times the price of a product leaving you with almost no chance of buying it at a fair price.

It is excruciatingly hot with the sun beating down today and with no clouds to shield us, we get back to Visalam at 3 pm and immediately request for curd rice to be made for lunch. Siva is disappointed, having planned an elaborate meal for us. He coaxes us into sharing a vegetarian platter on a banana leaf, along-with the curd rice of course! I am especially enamoured by the carrot payasam.

We are advised to rest for a while because it is very hot outside. Once evening descends, we go for a short walk exploring the streets of Kanadukathan and are happily surprised at stumbling upon more Chettinadu mansions. There’s a curious looking place and it turns out to be a merchant selling freshly cold pressed coconut oil, groundnut oil and sesame oil. It is an especially pleasing sight when we see a spectacular sunset with the sun as a huge ball of fire. We come back to Visalam and wonder how will we manage to go to Madurai which is said to be even hotter than Chettinad!

Dinner is served early and is a simple affair for our tired tummies. We call it a night and wake up early the next day to enjoy seconds of the excellent masala chai.

CGH Earth Visalam, Kanadukathan

Visalam was a house built by KVAL Ramanathan Chettiar for his eldest daughter, Visalakshi, more than 100 years ago. Visalam has been splendidly restored by CGH Earth keeping in mind the aesthetics of the traditional architecture of the Chettiars. The Chettiar community of this region were prosperous traders and their palatial houses are standing testaments to their sense of class. Visalam is a fine example of the Chettiar’s aesthetic sense that was grand in its conception and painstaking in its details. Visalam is a heritage Chettiar mansion preserved in time and and today it is almost like a respected museum, having preserved almost everything of its original character and interiors from the time it was built. The furniture is period in style, flawlessly crafted and made from the finest Burma teak.

Contact : Phone – +91 484 4261711, Website : www.cghearth.com/visalam
Email – contact@cghearth.com  

Chettinad region is similar to Shekhawati not only in the arid and dry weather conditions but also in the stories of its inhabitants – Nattukottai Chettiars are businessmen who made their fortunes through businesses in Southeast Asia; mostly in Burma, Malaysia and Singapore. They used to trade in timber, gems, salt and precious metals. There are about 74 villages and an estimated 15000 mansions in Chettinad in the present time boasting of the use Carrara marble Venetian chandeliers from Italy, British ornamental steelwork from Birmingham and fine Burmese teak.

Note : I stayed at Visalam on a collaboration. The words and opinions on this blog are my own, as always.

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We had spent most of the anxious post-March months at home in Jaipur; only heading out to Delhi and Himachal for around 4 weeks in September-October. Most of our travels otherwise were around Jaipur in the form of staycations and drives. It had started to feel boring being back in Jaipur and once Diwali celebrations were over, we started making plans in our head to leave for the mountains. The ‘where’ seemed like a sacrilegious question, and was left alone for the time being.

Read more on Kasar Devi :

Aimless Wanderings in Almora

Alternative Living in Kasar Devi, Almora

In December, when we learnt that there was no compulsory negative Covid test report required for entering Uttarakhand, it felt pre-ordained that we head to Dehradun to stay at our friends’ home there. Further, detailed enquiries meant the information that folks arriving from Delhi were being made to undergo a compulsory Covid Test at the border. Since we were not keen at all on getting a Covid test done, we decided to hire a cab directly from Jaipur to Dehradun and made sure it was a RJ number.

We spent a nice two weeks in Dehradun and on a random whim ended up staying a couple of days in Landour when we went for breakfast to Hathipaon, near Mussoorie. After breakfast, it was just decided to hike up via the jungle path to Landour and since we had covered almost 16 kilometres, it only seemed prudent to end up staying in Landour! The weather was very cold and temperatures were in the negative but we loved the walks galore and it felt as if we were ready to travel in the old style (of course with precautions).

It was a memorable Christmas feast in Dehradun and we were 7 of us travelling in 2 cars from Dehradun to Kasar Devi, next day. We had decided to take the long but beautiful winding route from Garhwal to Kumaon – the Karnaprayag-Gwaldam to Kasar Devi route. The biggest challenge was to figure out a safe place to stay on the road, and accordingly we left at about 8 am from Dehradun. It was decided to stay at one secluded place on the way to Gauchar.

It was a forgettable night stay to say the least but we left very early for our final destination Kasar Devi in Kumaon and luck started smiling on us. As we crossed Karnaprayag and were on the Gwaldam-Almora road, it was still quite early in the morning and for the first time in our lives (seemingly) we took a u-turn to end up at a dhaba eatery that we only noticed after going ahead.

The dhaba eatery turned out to be just the perfect spot with a flowing river and served freshly made incredibly tasty paranthas with veggies and dall. It felt as if our trip was already off to a great start. We met an internet acquaintance who was kind enough to give us chai with a grand view of Mt. Trishul. I was excited to see the fabulous looking bamboo baskets when our car crossed Gwaldam Bazaar and made a mental note to buy them if we were in Gwaldam again.

We drove and drove and passed different parts of Kumaon and were in Kasar Devi at around 330 pm. Since it was intended as a week long stay, I had decided that accommodation was best at a secluded place and I had in mind exactly the place that fulfilled the requirements. We were in the jungle and the place of stay wasn’t exactly luxurious but had an element of rustic beauty to it. There was a fireplace in every room to keep the cold at bay.

We enjoyed our aimless walks in the jungle and our evenings with the fireplace. It was fun to wake up to a view of the Himalayan peaks somedays as we practised yoga and meditation on the terrace. When it was time to go back, we realised we were mentally prepared to just continue living here and told our Dehradun and Delhi friends the same. The weather was cloudy and continued being so as everyone else except us left on 2nd January 2021.

There were a lot of factors involved in the shifting to the mountains. On our travels, we had always wondered what it would be like to live in one place. Now that ‘work from anywhere’ is a reality and it is possible to live this life, if we didn’t try it now, there might never be a better time to do it. We have not really decided how long we will live here, but it is just an experiment to see how it feels to actually live in the mountains.

We were hoping to be shifted to a warmer cottage on the 2nd but that didn’t happen and on a cold and gloomy day we decided to get dropped to Almora with our friends who were headed to Ranikhet. It was meant as a quick stop to buy the necessary stuff that we would need to start living. Almora Bazaar is closed on Sunday and that necessitated our going on a Saturday because we didn’t want to leave our shopping for essentials for too late.

It was a cloudy and gloomy day and felt very smoggy. We got dropped off on the Ranikhet road around 3.5 kms from the Almora Bazaar and got a ride in a camper after walking for a bit. The camper dropped us close to a set of stairs from where we reached Almora market after huffing and puffing for about 15 minutes! On the way, I realised that I had forgotten my mask and the first thing that we did after reaching the market was to buy a mask!

We figured that it made sense to buy some basic supplies and rations like oil etc since we were planning to ‘live’ here. If I’ve forgotten to mention it earlier, our cottage came with a kitchenette and there was a gas and the required utensils too. We also asked the owner to start giving us 1/2 litre daily milk that came straight from their cows that someone owned in the extended family.

Day 1

Vishal Mega Mart

Whenever we showed anyone in Almora our list of things to buy, they would invariably ask us to go to Vishal Mega Mart. Even though we were keen on buying stuff from the usual small shops in the bazaar, we figured it was easier to go to Vishal Mega Mart and buy the things we need in one place. Plus they had some massive discount scheme going on! We finished our shopping for masalas, rice, cups at around 3 pm and were super tired and hungry as well. I could only buy an upper warmer at the Neva shop since they had no lower in my size!

We bought towels to be used as a table cover and a curtain from one of many khadi shops in Almora Bazaar. Also bought a bottle of Morpheus XO brandy for 900 Rupees since I was told that it is a nice remedy to be used in small quantities as medicine to combat the cold.

We must have looked rather funny with the bulky looking bags but still decided to have a late lunch rather than rushing to our home in Kasar Devi and being hungry. It was a simple meal of bhatt ki churkani and mandua roti at Joshju’s Restaurant in Almora and we were glad to speak to the owner, Siddharth. We requested him to ask one of his staff guys to book the 2 front seats for us in the shared sumo because it might possibly be the last sumo of the day to Kasar Devi.

Almora Rasoi

While roaming in the heritage area of the Johari Bazaar, we had come across a utensil shop and picked some antique stuff in brass from him. The owner was a middle aged uncle and remarked that his kids had started a small venture in the lockdown, Almora Rasoi. He gave a packet of the tea masala made by Almora Rasoi for 30 Rupees for us to try it out. I spotted Almora Rasoi’s signboard near the shared taxi stand and met one of the young owners. He told me that everything they made was in desi ghee and I tried the makkhan bada and it really turned out to be amazing.

Almora is quite warm and when we get back it felt frighteningly cold in the cottage. We light a fire in the evening itself and make hot chocolate from the homemade mix that we had bought from Prakash Ji’s shop in Landour. We feel satisfied and accomplished having done most of our required shopping. We figured that we could make a list once we shifted to our actual cottage.

Day 2

Woke up to a drizzle. It has been raining since morning, not too much but enough to make it very cold and seemingly impossible to get out of bed. We have breakfast at our host’s home at 9 am and go back to our room. There is no chance of yoga on the terrace. It stops raining for a bit and we venture out to see the clouds in the forest that we are.

We light a fire at about 11 am and declare that it is a day to chill and relax and that we should celebrate our having gone to the market a day earlier. It is a cozy bed and I’m able to concentrate on reading a book after what seems like a long time. At about 1240 pm, we feel very sleepy but decide to not get too lazy and make lunch.

Lunch is sautéed whole french beans, carrots, and capsicum. It turns out to be super yummy and I am so happy with myself. We have received our first container of the fresh cow milk in the morning and the cold day means we make a round of hot chocolate. It turns out to be an epic lunch idea, especially in this Ruskin Bond – kind of weather!

To let go of our lethargy, we decide to go for a walk in the woods but have to opt against it as it starts raining as soon as we step out. We finally go to the terrace for network and stand in the sheltered part and download a movie or two! I also put out some social media updates.

It is surreal to notice the clouds and mist float around the trees in the near and far distance and how the mountains have been invisible for the last 3-4 days. I almost wonder if visitors to Kasar Devi feel what the fuss is all about if they come for a 2-3 day visit and don’t get a view of the mountains.

The day ends early and it is dark when we get back to our cottage at about 530 pm. There has been no electricity all day and we are lucky that the cottage has a single charging point that works on an inverter. At 7 pm, we go for dinner. Amazing food menu – mushroom tomato soup, dall, vegetables, chapati and rice. We chat up with our host about the possibility of snowfall next day if it continues raining. We continue the fire post dinner and sleep early because it will be cottage shifting day tomorrow!

Day 3

Our hearts are beating wildly in anticipation of shifting to a permanent cottage today. I am feeling wonderful after a good night’s sleep and the day begins nicely inhaling the fresh aroma of petrichor once we open the cottage door! The weather appears to be shifting between cloudy and sunny and it is fun to notice the small battle that the sun finally triumphs in! It is not raining anymore and we decide to not wait forever for the shifting of the cottage and go out for a walk and do our work.

Tara General Store, Papersali

We set out after breakfast to head to Tara General Store in Papersali to buy eggs and other basic supplies that we were unable to buy in Almora Bazaar. Tara General Store is like an all purpose hub in the region; as everyone gets their Amazon deliveries and other necessary stuff delivered there. There are also other shops nearby and it makes for a nice walk once you are familiar with the jungle paths.

It is a great day for a walk because the jungle has all kinds of pleasant smells today as the sun is shining brightly now after the spell of rain. The view of the Himalayas is clear and we wonder how the mountains decide to reveal themselves once the weekend tourists are gone.

We buy a tray of eggs at Tara General Store and are surprised to know that there is hardly any stock in the usually burgeoning shop. We cannot even find brown bread or atta maggi (not that we actually eat both of them) and even the vegetables don’t look fresh at all. I am happily surprised to see nice looking local avocados being sold for Rs. 30 per piece.

Tara Ji tells us that since there are hardly any long-term tourists staying in Kasar Devi right now, he has decided to take it slow for the time being. There’s another shop selling boutique stuff owned by a brother of Tara Ji, and that uncle tells us of a jungle path to reach our cottages! We thank him for the same and tell him we always want to avoid taking the road.

We have a peek around the other shops too and are able to buy a nailcutter and a locally made bamboo basket. It is around noon and we take the jungle path to go back; and come across pretty looking homes. Some of these homes are homestays too and there are a few cuddly looking dogs barking at us strangers!

We spot many malta trees (local oranges) and the stark orange colour is especially pleasing to the eyes. It is around 1 pm when we get back to our new ‘home’. The cottage hasn’t been emptied yet and we make a quick lunch.

We go up to the terrace for better network and to enjoy some sun. Our host tells us that the cottage is empty now (finally) and that it is being cleaned. We are excited to hear that and after a quick bath start packing our stuff in different bags so that we can shift quickly. We finally start shifting our bags at about 4 pm once the room is cleaned and the floors have been wiped clean.

We have also got our leftover wood in two lots. We unpack and arrange our stuff in the shelf. Once the basic stuff has been done, I make tea and it is a super happy feeling to drink in the new transparent cups!

This cottage already feels much warmer than the previous cottage! It has wooden flooring. We think that we might not even need to light a fire here. We setup the kitchen and put the fridge to good use by switching it off and storing rice and different dals in it.

It is time to test the internet speed and figure the best way of working here. This cottage opens to a small terrace where there are 2 chairs and a table. It is pretty cold outside and we will be able to sit outside according to the timing of the sunshine.

It is a lovely feeling to have shifted here in daylight because otherwise it might have just felt very gloomy to have moved here in the dark. We decide to give a load of clothes to wash the next day. Have dinner at 7 pm and thank our host for giving us a warm cottage! Since internet speed is manageable here, we watch a movie after dinner and call it an early night.

Hilans

We come across the Hilans outlet while checking other shops after Tara General Store. Buy bhatt ki dall, red rice and local mandua biscuits from there. These are all local foods of Uttarakhand and have immense health benefits in addition to providing warmth in the winter months. The prices at Hilans are a bit higher than the market but the quality is better too as the grains are sorted and there are less chances of stones in the pulses.

Day 4

It is our first morning in the new cottage. The alarm is set for 715 am but it feels very cold in the morning and I end up snoozing the alarm. I finally wake up 15 minutes later and see clouds in the sky after pulling the curtains. A round of nicely made tea and we are up and running with the new life.

We go to the bigger terrace at about 815 am and practise yoga and meditation. The view of the Himalayan peaks is absolutely clear and we give our clothes for a wash as we head for breakfast. It is oats porridge, milk and fruits for breakfast. It is indeed a very cold morning and the temperature is easily in the negative as we start work at about 930 am.

The sun comes at around 10 am on our terrace and we scramble to put the chairs and shift our position with the sunshine! At lunchtime, make rice and light stir-fry onions, tomatoes, spring onions, beans, capsicum and mix in rice. It turns out super yummy. I call it a case of beginner’s luck! We are pleased with how life is turning out here and sit and eat outside in the sun. The sunshine continues till around 2 pm and we decide to go for a walk in the jungle post that.

As we are about to leave, I see a message from The Farmhaus saying that our freshly baked atta bread is ready. We are supposed to pick it up from their house which is about 25 minutes walk from our place! It is the best part of life here and as simple as it gets when you walk through a dense pine and mixed jungle to pick up freshly baked bread! We are amazed to see their blue and white house with 2 cute dogs and the aroma is tantalising. We are given mandua cookies to taste and love them!

On the way back, we lose our way and wander around in the jungle for a bit. It turns out we were on the right way and finally make it back to the cottage at about 330 pm. We have decided to make sure that we go for a walk in the jungle everyday; otherwise whats the fun of living in the middle of nature.

After working for some time, it is time for chai and I marvel at the view of the snow clad Himalayas from the glass window – Mt. Trishul, Nanda Devi, Chaukhamba are among the prominent peaks visible from here. It is a majestic sunset and I see the peaks light up in different hues of orange and pink and then funnily enough I see the clouds roll in.

Dinner time is fixed at 7 pm and we relish the food laid out on the table. There is yummy tomato soup, avocado salad, dall, vegetable, chapati and rice. We chat with our host, spiritual chants playing in the background. The weather seems to be changing and the electricity goes. Thankfully we have a solar powered light in our room and we light up a fire in the fireplace to make it feel cosier. The wind is rushing through when we are about to sleep and it begins raining.

Day 5

It is fun to hear the pleasing sound of raindrops on our tin roof. It rains all night and there is a big downpour when the alarm for 715 sounds. I pull the curtains hoping to see a whiteout! It is still sort of dark and the surroundings are cloudy and misty. I feel like I’m in a Ruskin Bond movie! The rain finally stops after some time. There is a spider in the room and our host helps with it!

There is no electricity but thankfully everything is charged. The rain returns after breakfast. It feels bitterly cold in the absence of sun. I wonder if it continues raining, then maybe it might snow in the night. Lunch is omelette and bread and the bread turns out to be totally amazing. Invite our host for evening tea, he’s here at 430 and it is a lovely time! The electricity finally comes just in time and we put all our devices for charging lest there be another power cut!

I use the locally made gloves while typing on the laptop. I’ve sourced them and other local woollen products for my arts and crafts platform Indilocal. Otherwise it feels too cold and the teeth chatter. We decide to light up the fire everyday post-dinner only; since its not safe to leave the fire on while we are not in the cottage. I am trying to complete a blogpost and decide to work post-dinner too. That is one of the biggest challenges of a freelance life, since you have no boss – it becomes difficult to decide how much work to do.

Day 6

The weekend comes and like villagers we dress up and are super excited to go to Almora Bazaar for our weekly shopping of groceries! I also have to ship some orders for Indilocal. I wanted to find out a proper shop to buy local produce and I am able to locate it in the old Almora market. We buy local garlic, gahat ki dall and other herbs and spices. Tibetan ladies sell jambu and gandrayani and we buy small quantities to be used in food.

Now that we have completed almost 2 months of living in Kasar Devi, let me compile some highlights from the memories :

• Seeing a deer in the forest. A curious deer came by and stood still as we blended in the surroundings of the jungle. It skipped, jumped and disappeared. The joy of seeing a deer in the wild is simply inexplicable.
• Simple joys – Sitting in the sunshine, watching a flower bloom, drinking fresh cow milk, of being in nature, breathing fresh air, waking up to the chirping of birds, yoga and meditation, making flower vases with nature’s bounty, dewdrops on leaves, watching the Himalayan peaks.
• Learning to cook Kumaoni food – bhatt ki dal, red rice, gahat ki dall, jhangora, jambu masala.
• Learnt how to light a fire – with a fireplace in the cottage and winter in its full force, it was essential to keep a fire going in the evening to feel cosy and warm!
• Working from anywhere – Courtesy of a cotton dhurrie, we have worked from different places in different forests depending on our need for sunshine. We just need to find a nice flat land to spread the dhurrie.
• Working with the local women folk around villages of Almora and shipping hand made and hand knitted woollen products across India through @Indilocal
• Become a part of the community – Now, wherever we go in the nearby regions, most locals know us and share conversations with us.
• Watch winter transform the forest in spring. From leafless trees to seeing fresh shoots appear everyday.
• Endless walks in the forest, with dogs for company. Appreciating the urban pleasures whenever we go to Almora Bazaar to buy groceries.

And thats how life is in Kasar Devi.

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Read from the epic 2015 trip to Kumaon :

Attending a Kumaoni Wedding in Kumaon

Alternative Living in Kasar Devi

I had no plan of where to go next and a stroke of luck meant I was sitting in a camper before it got dark. The camper guy mentioned he was going to Sitlakhet and I remarked I’d love to go there! It was already semi-dark when the camper had given me a ride and we crossed Sitlakhet in pitch darkness. That day the camper guy recommended that I should just get back to Almora and stay there for the night and then figure my plans with a fresh mind. This was in 2015.

In 2018, I’d read about Nayalap and thought about a visit to Sitlakhet. The visit would only materialise in 2021 when we are living in Kasar Devi. It is the month of January when we embark on a four day visit to Sitlakhet. From Kasar Devi, the road first descends to Kosi where we cross the Kosi river and bridge and take a left towards Sitlakhet.

We have left at about 930 am and the views of the Himalayan peaks are a bit hazy from Kasar Devi. As we near Kosi, the haze increases with the appearance of the Kosi river. We ascend crossing the sizeable village of Khoont and at one of the turns the full splendour of the Himalayan peaks is visible. Nayalap is located 3 kms before Sitlakhet in a hamlet by the name of Salla Rautela.

I am overjoyed with the view of the Himalayan peaks but the haze is back and my joy is short lived. We reach Nayalap earlier than expected. Nayalap offers luxury camping (glamping) and we meet the owners Tanuja and Anindya. It is nice and sunny in the open sit-out and the first look of the property is captivating. We are ushered into the luxurious setting and keep our backpacks inside.

We chat for an hour or so while enjoying the nice sunshine and decide to hike to Sitlakhet bazaar by a jungle path. The distance by road is only 3 kms but it makes sense to walk when you are in a nice forest breathing clean air. We first walk past the village of Salla Rautela and then start our hike on a lovely jungle path that has a winding ascent all the way till Sitlakhet.

Sitlakhet – An Introduction

Sitlakhet is a tiny hamlet in Kumaon, Uttarakhand. It has a few shops in the one street market and is located away from the main Almora – Ranikhet circuit. It is an offbeat destination and has been popular with the travellers of yore due to the vintage Forest Rest House in Sitlakhet that was built in 1873 by the British. Sitlakhet is rich in flora and fauna and the hills and jungles around the village are said to house more than 100 species of birds.

The hiking trail to Sitlakhet is well marked and passes through a mixed forest of pine, oak, deodhar, rhododendron trees, and also crosses an educational institution on the way. We also meet a few locals on the hike and exchange greetings. The sun filters through the trees and makes it a pleasant experience with the breeze staying away. We reach Sitlakhet bazaar in about 30 minutes and continued towards the FRH after a short peek at the market shops.

Forest Rest House Sitlakhet

The Forest Rest House (FRH) in Sitlakhet was probably built in mid 1860s and is located on a hillock that is at a distance of around 500 metres from the main Sitlakhet Bazaar. There’s also the KMVN TRH (Tourist Rest House) which appears just before the iron gate of the FRH. In front of the Forest Rest House, there is a small green meadow which would be a perfect picnic spot on a clear day when the Himalayas are visible. Some of the prominent peaks that can be seen from Sitlakhet are Nanda Devi, Trishul, Chaukhamba, and Panchachuli.

The Forest Rest House in Sitlakhet is a beautiful old building and has an enviable setting. We are unable to see it from the inside, as it is undergoing repairs with the wooden floors in the rooms being replaced. I could only have a peek from the window and saw that the interiors were charming and there are fireplaces in the rooms and the dining area as well.

Sitlakhet Bazaar comprises of a few shops selling necessities, a cute-looking post office, a pharmacy, a blue coloured tea stall, a local dhaba making samosas, and 2-3 hotels providing basic accomodation facilities. We continue on our jungle walk after visiting the FRH and a dog accompanies us from FRH Sitlakhet. It is around 4 pm and we are surprised to see a rhododendron flower blooming; even though it is only January.

It is a surreal sight to see an acacia tree in bloom, in an alluring shade of yellow. We are walking in a dense forest and the evening light makes the surroundings look even more beautiful. After a while, we reach a flat grassland and see some holes dug for water percolation by the Forest Department. It is a leisurely downhill hike thereafter to reach Naila village and come back to Nayalap. There is a small bakery in Naila village and it is fun to see biscuits and other products being made.

Salla Rautela – A Typical Kumaoni Village

On one of the afternoons at Nayalap, I am accompanied by Tanuja and Anindya to take a walk around the Kumaoni village of Salla Rautela. It is an old village and the houses are spread across the valley. Salla Rautela is a typical Kumaoni village with pretty houses, mostly barren fields, dwellings with heritage value with carved doors and windows in likhai craft, exquisite door and window frames, and a few vintage houses made from stone can also be seen.

Some of the designs on the door and window panels are quite exquisite, while one can spot a few dilapidated, crumbling homes too. Some of these homes are locked, presumably to return later while some seem to be locked forever. I experience a feeling of unparalleled joy upon seeing a field of daffodil flowers (nargis flowers) blooming in one part of the village. Their scent is light but memorable and I wonder if it is available in bottled form.

Palayan – Migration in Uttarakhand

When I turn around, my eyes are facing a bakholi (a common village home) of 9 houses, which is a huge structure in a crumbling condition. 2-3 homes out of the 9 are in dire straits and the walls on the lower floor are already collapsing. Some of the home owners have shifted closer to the road and have built a home there.

The fields that the villagers own are mostly left uncultivated. The reasons are manifold – water issues, monkeys and pigs destroying their crops, young generation doesn’t want to farm anymore, everyone wants a job. Since jobs in the hilly regions of Uttarakhand are few and far between, the youth ultimately ends up migrating to the cities in search of work and slowly the families move out of the village preferring to live an ‘easier’ life.

There were also a few glimmers of hope, I saw one traditional Kumaoni home being rented by a Nepali family with kids playing in the courtyard and another one with pretty doors rented by a couple from Bageshwar. Most of these doors and windows are painted in different colours, predominantly in shades of blue although I also spotted some green ones too.

On the informative walk, I was pleased to be shown tiny holes in the walls of houses that were meant for bees. The entry and exit would be controlled by the house owner ensuring a small quantity of real honey. Next day when I went again, I met 2 brothers sowing potatoes in the fields; they were planning to tie a dog near the field so that the monkeys wouldn’t dare to come near the crop.

We sat near the nargis flowers (daffodils) and said our namastes to the local women carrying fodder for animals. The aipan designs outside homes were especially beautiful but it was a little sad to see a number of the homes locked. Apparently, the locals had moved out and migrated to the cities. Salla Rautela village has about 90 homes and around 40 of them had already migrated leaving some of those locked homes and some of the others crumbling.

Nayalap

Tanuja is a local from the Kumaon region and was concerned with the mass exodus of the Kumaoni youth towards the cities. That was the idea that gave birth to Nayalap; the word migration in english is palayan in hindi. Palayan read backwards is Nayalap – and that is what Tanuja and Anindya aim to do with Nayalap is to start the reverse migration and bring back Kumaoni youth back from the cities. Nayalap also endeavours to convert old Kumaoni houses into homestays and give a sustainable earning model to the locals by way of tourism.

Nayalap is a boutique luxury stay consisting of 4 glamping tents, that are spread out from each other for privacy of the guests. If I have to summarise Nayalap in a nutshell – there are multiple pristine hiking trails in the jungle, luxury camping (glamping) in the midst of nature, gorgeous furniture with pleasing interiors, warm electric blankets, excellent food with Kumaoni dishes, use of the local sheep wool blanket Thulma, evening lights of Almora and the moonrise when the moon appears red. They employ local Kumaoni staff from the nearby villages.

The weather is hazy which is unusual for the winter and that means we have a clear view of the mountains for just one day. According to the locals when the views are clear, the sight of Himalayan peaks from Sitlakhet is surreal. The luxury tents at Nayalap are set on platforms and have a jungle feel as there is ample space for each of them surrounded by trees and they are not cloistered together which is usually the case with luxury tent properties. What that means is that we wake up to the sounds of birds. Evening bonfires with home made ginger wine are welcome with a dazzling view of the stars in the night skies.

Furniture – Every tent is equipped with a dining/work table with ample space for 4, and a comfortable contemporary settee lined with gorgeous cushions. Side tables, a rack for keeping bags, a clothes hanger, and a vintage looking cabinet. Flooring is bamboo mats woven by local artisans. Choice of teas is excellent, bottles of green tea, masala tea and coffee are kept and a strainer is given. The tea mugs look custom made and feel very pretty. Curtains are in the form of bamboo blinds.

Even though it is thick in the middle of winter, the temperature is comfortable inside the tent even after it gets dark. The heater does its job and we have dinner on the table in the tent itself. A happy surprise is the electric blankets and we turn them on 30 minutes before getting in the bed. That means the bed is nicely warm and coupled with the thulma blanket, it is a cosy night’s sleep.

The dining area has 3-4 tables and is set amidst trees, surrounded by succulents, other flowers and greenery and has a rustic yet welcoming feel. There is one table kept in the open space that receives the maximum sunlight and is the preferred place for breakfast and lunch. The small verandah outside each tent comes with a portable small table and mobile chairs (quechua). The tents itself have white curtains on all sides on the exterior. Inside the tents, the white curtains can be drawn to separate the living area from the bedroom part to make it a more intimate space. We had carried fairy lights to make it look more warm and cosy and homely!

The mobile network and internet connectivity at Nayalap is excellent and they also have wifi. There’s also a dog at the property by the name of Ludo. It is refreshing to see school kids every morning as they cross through the open area to go for their tuition. One can see easter egg decorations and pine cones painted in the open space. Nayalap’s natural feel brings out the artist in visitors and proof of that is in a watercolour painting gifted by a guest. It can be seen outside the kitchen wall.

At Nayalap, their food offerings are varied and are a nice mix of Indian, continental and Kumaoni food – Thatwani soup (black in colour) made of 3 beans, bhatt ki churkani, bhatt ka dubka, bhangjeera ki chutney, sana hua nimbu, bhaang ki chutney, jhangore ki kheer, salad of thatwani, aloo ke gutke, gahat ki dall, mooli salad in mustard oil, gaderi ki sabzi, mandua ki roti, fresh paneer made in the village, pumpkin soup. In short, every meal felt like a feast and they customize the food according to the guest’s preferences.

The staff from nearby villages has been trained well and food is served hot in fine serving vessels with accompaniments like ghee, raita, salad and local Kumaoni salt. I quite liked the innovation with the mandua halwa and gaderi toast. During breakfast time, there was a choice of fruits everyday, and fresh made juice or milk shake and a word of appreciation for consistently excellent masala chai.

A Day Trip to Ranikhet – Walks in Ranikhet

The distances in Kumaon are small, and that meant we decide to explore Ranikhet on a Saturday! We leave from Nayalap at about 11 am and totally enjoy the drive amidst the thick forests and minimal traffic. On the way, Tanuja pointed out a jackal right in front of us – then we realised it was a pair of jackals, and multiple steppe eagles on the road. There might have been a dead animal in the vicinity as we see more steppe eagles on the next turn.

We cross Majkhali and drive past the Army Golf Course and reach Ranikhet Cantt. after an hour or so. It is somewhere close to the Nar Singh Stadium where we start our walk. We climb a short set of stairs and arrive at a point to see the first dwellings or barracks where the English soldiers first started living. It is an Army Cantt. area and there’s a temple in front of the KRC (Kumaon Regiment Centre) woollens workshop in an old Church.

KRC Woollens

I had heard about the wonderful initiative of Kumaon Regiment Centre Woollens but had never expected to see a Church being converted to a workshop. It felt quite an amazing idea to maintain the church and preserve the heritage! There were about 20 looms installed in the interiors and a signboard which detailed about the variety of shawls and woollen products made at KRC Woollens. I met a guy from Pithoragarh here and he told me about the variety of products made here.

The shop section of KRC woollens was located in another Church which was hardly a five minute walk from the first Church. There was another smaller workshop in the second Church and we had to rush to the shop since it was about to be 1 pm when the staff would shut shop for their lunch break. We entered at 1250 pm and were happily surprised with the excellent quality of stoles, mufflers, jackets, tweed cloth, shawls and other woollen products. There were also handicrafts in traditional Kumaoni designs made by war widows.

The best part was that prices were fixed and the staff was ok with us seeing the products even when it was 5 minutes past 1. I kept the solitary shawl aside (to see later) when the staff actually wanted to go for lunch. There was also knitted stuff, and AWWA Asha cards, some SOS cosmetics and also Purkul Stree Shakti products.

Heritage Walk in Ranikhet

We begin our walk in the Cantt. area in Ranikhet and lose the main road. It is pleasing to walk in the dense greenery and we cross Rani Jheel from where the gently ascending trail begins. We cross a few crumbling and dilapidated Churches on the way; Canossa Convent School, and the walking trail ends at Ranikhet Club. We are happy to amble under a verdant canopy of deodhar, walnut, chestnut, oak, pine and cypress trees.

Ranikhet Club is a regal building established in 1884 and is located on The Mall Road. The dining room, bar, interiors with fireplaces, rooms overlooking expansive patches of greenery and a lawn tennis court are wonderful spaces. I really like this part of Ranikhet and it surely must be the quietest Mall Road I have ever visited!

Ranikhet was a summer establishment for the British since the late 1860’s before it became home to Kumaon Regiment after independence. Since Ranikhet is a cantonment town, construction is not permitted and that ensures Ranikhet doesn’t look like a concrete jungle like most other popular hill stations turn into. In the present day, it is a mountain town dominated by the Army Cantonment area that gives Ranikhet its unique character.

We continue walking on The Mall and are transported back in time with Army Guest Houses, old lampposts, rhododendron trees in bloom (in January!), heritage hotels, old estates and bungalows, and the air smelling of eucalyptus trees. It is quite refreshing to see a fresh growth of greenery in the dense jungle, a testament to how strict Ranikhet is with regards to the tree cover.

We go to Chevron Rosemount – which is a nice heritage property. The garden is a great place to sit with cast iron chairs, and the immaculately maintained lawn makes for a great lunch idea in the winter sunshine. Since we are carrying an elaborate picnic lunch setup with us, we continue our explorations of Ranikhet.

Even though The Mall Road walk is on a road, there is no car that passes us by in the 4-5 kilometres walk. The road joins the main road at West View Hotel and we see a signboard that Nehru also walked here. We set out for a picnic lunch near Chaubatia and find a secluded sunny spot under the pine trees. It is around 330 pm and the breeze blowing is already quite cold. On our way back we cross the Jhula Devi Temple lined with bells.

There are a number of hiking trails in Ranikhet and we spot the jungle paths in the Cantt. area and also near the West View Hotel and Jhula Devi Temple. Ranikhet seems like a lovely town for a longer stay!

We spread the dhurrie and unpack the bamboo basket. It feels like a treasure hunt as I am not aware of the menu. My joy knows no bounds when I am served delicious methi puri, black chana, jhangora (barnyard millet) khichdi, spicy pumpkin with jakhiya, and the signature Nayalap chilly pickle. It is akin to a feast and after trying to click the perfect instagram shot, we dig in! The food is yummy and the picnic setup is perfect.

If you are in the region, I highly recommend exploring Ranikhet with the Nayalap folks! It is a perfect way that Ranikhet should be seen, on foot.

We begin our return journey from Ranikhet and cross the majestic evening sights in Majkhali. A surreal sunset seems to be brewing and we catch glimpses of the valley view on our return. We stop at a bamboo artist near Sitlakhet – he is a gifted guy and makes excellent stuff from bamboo. Nayalap works with him and you can buy products handcrafted in bamboo like a magazine stand, coasters, fruit box, lamps etc from their website.

Hike to Syahi Devi Temple

The Nayalap folks had saved the best for the last! On our last evening – we start our drive at around 330 pm and reach the parking place ahead of Forest Rest House by around 415 pm. There are three different trails to go to Syahi Devi temple, and all of them are well marked. We decide to take a round hike by walking on one trail and coming via a different one. It is quite interesting to know that the locals have named some of the houses – Bhutan, Singapore, Nainital courtesy of the connection that these house owners have with these places!

The trail to Syahi Devi temple passes through dense pine and oak forests. The temple is located at an altitude of approximately 2300m. There is a nice opportunity for birding enthusiasts here and the trail is accessible throughout the day. On the way to Syahi Devi temple we also came across many fruit orchards for which Sitlakhet was well known at one point of time. On a clear day it is possible to have a majestic view of the Himalayas and see all the way till the mountains of Nepal.

Tanuja shows us lichens growing on trees in an upper part of the trail, lichens usually grow in cold areas with zero air pollution. For the uninitiated, lichens are also used in Hyderabadi biryani. After crossing one fence, we enter someone’s private estate and spot rosemary and local tea leaves growing. Some locals inform us that they practice mushroom farming, and one house even has an essence making unit.

We continue to the temple and cross a few houses located on the sides of the hill that comprise Syahi Devi village. There are young kids playing basketball in surreal evening light. The forest department has put nice signboards on the nature trail, and a signboard at the temple informs us that Swami Vivekananda meditated for 4 days at Syahi Devi Temple. We pay our respects at the temple and sit for a while.

The Syahi Devi temple is locally revered and surprisingly looks newly built. The house adjacent to the temple seems quite old and the door frame there has been carved in stone itself. There are a few shops selling religious paraphernalia and also a few houses of the residents. The locals believe that Syahi Devi temple was built more than 200 years ago.

It is time to be enthralled by the magic of nature – We witness a surreal sunset from a high ridge that is a 10 minute walk from Syahi Devi temple. The sun is setting behind the hills, and we have hot tea in thermos as we savour the sight of the sun going behind the mountains. The after-sunset colours are also very nice but since it would get dark soon, we start our hike back through a different trail. It is all downhill and we make it to the car in good time.

We cross Bora Estate, and Pine Cliff Youreka Camp, a property – Anant Rasa and some more recently built cottages. The way downhill is pretty easy and passes through a stunning dense forest and we reached the car in semi-darkness.

How to reach Sitlakhet?

Distance of Sitlakhet from Ranikhet is 30 kms. Distance from Sitlakhet to Almora is 36 kms. Shared sumos and buses ply for Sitlakhet from both these towns. If direct buses/shared taxis are not available, then Kosi is the junction from where shared taxis to Sitlakhet will be available. From Delhi, reaching Sitlakhet will take approximately 10 hours.

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It is very cold and cloudy, and the sun is not out yet. Remember that we have not taken any local sim on this winter trip in Turkey and have no internet. We have reached Gaziantep in the dark at about 6 am. Gaziantep is old as a city and has a long and illustrious history that dates to 4000 BC. In 2015, Gaziantep has been added to the list : UNESCO’s Creative Cities Network as a creative city of gastronomy.

Check the previous posts from this Turkey trip :

All in a Day – Delhi to Istanbul to Trabzon

On the Black Sea Coast of Turkey – 2 Days in Trabzon

Of Breakfasts and Mountains : Van, Turkey

Istanbul – Top Backpacking Hacks for a Shoestring Budget

Thankfully, we have taken screenshots of the possible stay options based on the research and try showing them to the Vangölü staff guys. They are unhelpful (or maybe don’t know). We walk out of Gaziantep Otogar and someone asks us to show the address to the local city bus called ‘Halk Bus’. There is a bus stop just as we exit Gaziantep Otogar and there are multiple Yellow Halk Buses going on different routes. Our challenge is to figure out which bus to sit in!

We keep asking and a local guy on the street understands English and tells us to show the screenshot of the hotel address to the driver of the Halk Bus. Finally after 30 odd minutes, one of the Halk Bus drivers puts the location in his google maps and makes us sit in the bus!

Our destination is Sahinbey area in Gaziantep and it will take around 25 minutes. We don’t have a AntepKart but a local helps us and we pay 3 TL each for the ride to Sahinbey.

The ancient city of Gaziantep is waking up in the darkness and the baking of breads in old tandoors is visible as the bus passes through residential lanes. We seem to be the cynosure for curious eyes in the bus and the mention of Hindistan brings smiles of welcome! Everybody loves Indians in Turkey and is well aware of Bollywood movies and Indian television dramas.

The locals and the bus driver ask us to get down at a bus stop and even though we have no idea of where we are, we get down at the intersection of a street. We get lucky after asking multiple people, someone understands our predicament and asks us to cross the road and keep walking straight.

The daylight is finally improving and we are overjoyed to spot the Gaziantep Kalesi (Castle) on a hillock, lit up in warm light! A rustling wind blows carrying leaves with it, we are in a heritage area of Gaziantep and there are wide avenues for walking with benches conveniently placed to sit. After walking for 5 minutes, we come across an avenue with lanes going in different directions.

Our shortlisted heritage hotel – Ali Bey Konagi is quite close but it is only 7-730 am and the weather feels so cold that we want to wait. I spot a small coffeehouse, Kir Kahvesi to our right. It has a nice outdoor seating and closed space with a view of Gaziantep Castle and we request the owner to open the doors for us. Kir Kahvesi is a popular place for youngsters to smoke Nargile (sheesha) and we would later learn that Gaziantep is big on Nargile!

We just ask for two Turkish çay (tea) so that we can sit for some time in the warm and cozy interiors. We thank the old guy and pay the overpriced çay bill for 2.5 TL each! It is much brighter at about 8 am and we haul our backpacks and daypacks and begin the most important task of finding a place to stay.

Ali Bey Konagi is our first choice and we ring the bell. As it is too early, the original owner is not there and his friend shows us the cheapest priced room. The open air courtyard is a gorgeous space with a tree in autumn colours. Ali Bey Konagi is a heritage structure converted into a boutique homestay-hotel and it looks very pleasing to the eye.

The price for the room is quoted at 230 TL and that does not include kahvalti (breakfast). We tell him that we might stay for 2 days and quote 200 TL as our final price. The guy indicates that he can’t give us a price lower than the owner has told him to give and asks us to go elsewhere. He isn’t very helpful when we ask him to recommend us a cheaper place nearby.

We go back to the earlier lane where I had spotted a few ‘Konagi’ signboards. The literal definition of Konagi means mansion and it is a no-brainer for us to choose a heritage homestay rather than a multi storey hotel. We go to one Efe Bey Konagi Butik Otel which is a family run place and the owner’s young son shows us the room and offers us a 170 TL price.

We make it 170TL including Kahvalti and he is overjoyed to have tourists from Hindistan staying at his home! Efe Bey Konagi is a nice old property and our room is a heated wooden room. The bathroom is spacious as well and the towels are nice and clean. We congratulate ourselves on a job well done and decide to relax and sleep for a bit.

It is freezing cold in Gaziantep and we are already feeling under the pump in the morning. We have a hot water shower and lie down. Now that there is wifi available, we research about the heritage of Gaziantep and realise that we are indeed staying in the right place in old Gaziantep heritage city.

We get up and are ready to leave at about 1130 am after having munched on dried mulberries and chivda (savoury from India). For starters, we take our daypacks and dress well for a cold day as there is no sign of sun. We are strolling and taking in the sights of the old and historically important parts of Gaziantep and come across Imam Çagdas restaurant.

Imam Çagdas

Highly recommended eatery, it is super crowded and is teeming with people even though it is off-season for travel in Turkey. I give in to popular opinion and step inside the world of Imam Çagdas. There are trays and stacks filled with varieties of freshly made baklava.

The menu at Imam Çagdas is very limited and the Adana Kebap is recommended even though it is priced at a very expensive 37TL. It is served with a complimentary salad and lavash bread. There is no vegetarian dish on the menu and that results in a very awkward situation.

Yesemek Restaurant

Thankfully, Yesemek Vegetarian foods is adjacent and is an award winning restaurant for serving traditional vegetarian foods of this region. The staff is very helpful and charming and recommends us the Çorba that looks delicious. It is a lentil soup and is priced at 12 TL. There are 2 varieties of bread that come complimentary in a basket, along-with salad. Yesemek has super cosy interiors and has a very nice and relaxed vibe for a restaurant.

There are little kids on the street trying to sell water bottles for prices cheaper than in shops. It is the first time we are seeing this in Turkey and later realise that these might be Syrian refugees as the Syrian border is not too far away from Gaziantep.

Gulluoglu Baklava

We make a short visit to Gulluoglu Baklava after our tummies are full. It is the most recommended place in Gaziantep for the best baklava. We get lucky and the staff decides to give us 3 pieces (instead of 2) of Fistikli Baklava (pistachio baklava) for the 10 Turkish Lira that we give them.

We have realised that it is a better idea to always give the money first and ask the staff to serve us accordingly because otherwise the portion sizes are huge sometimes. The smiles and mention of Hindistan is the reason they ask if we want more complimentary pistachios as well!

After that, we decide to walk around the heritage parts of Gaziantep and enter the Bakircilar Carsisi.

Bakircilar Carsisi – Coppersmith Bazaar

Bakircilar Carsisi translates to the Coppersmith Bazaar and is a truly local delight in Gaziantep. It is a covered bazaar and is full of shops selling exquisitely made metal crafts of copper. We like the Turkish coffee maker Cezve but can’t agree on the 35TL price. There is an engraved tray with a perfume sprinkler that I buy for 10+20 TL. We decide to come back later to Bakircilar Carsisi for a closer perusal.

We have a heartening connection in one of the shops at Bakircilar Carsisi. Our curious eyes follow 2 old gentlemen in a shop who are eating pistachios and sipping chai. They invite us in and welcome us with gusto hearing that we are from Hindistan. We thank them and tell them we don’t want to buy anything as of now.

They offer us tea and give us the super quality pistachios to eat (fistikli). The pistachios are out of the world and we ask them for help for buying the same. They are glad to assist us in the same and we buy 1/2 kg fistikli for 45 TL that was originally quoted at 55 TL. The region around Gaziantep produces a sizeable portion of the world’s pistachios!

On the way out, we come across a number of shops selling brightly coloured bags for about 10-15 TL each. One of the shops has an excellent collection and variety of bags in different colours. The price ranges from 10 TL to 30 TL and even though we want to take 1 each of all the sizes we don’t because there are still 9-10 more days for us in Turkey and we can’t carry all the weight around.

Gaziantep also has a rich history of migrants from Yemen crafting handmade leather shoes and I see and try some of them. The shoes are hand-stitched and are excellent and seem reasonably priced at about 90 TL.

Spices in Gaziantep

Unlike other parts of Turkey, Gaziantep seems to have a different flavour in food and the food here is actually spicy (sometimes). In fact, the Adana kebap and other dishes in and around this region are known for being hot! There is saffron, cumin, dried pepper, black pepper corns, sumac and ihlamur among other spices and herbs. Some of the shops also have exotic looking fruits like portakal. I spot orange sellers on carts, gorgeous orange colour with leaves intact, selling oranges for around 1.5 to 2 TL per kilo.

Tahmis Kahvesi

We had a taster of Gaziantep’s happening coffee houses early in the morning even when the place was empty. While strolling around after exiting Bakircilar Carsisi, we come across the oriental music coming from Tahmis Kahvesi while a signboard indicates that it was established in 1635 AD. A coffee house that is almost 400 years old!

We enter the hallowed interiors of Tahmis Kahvesi and are taken in by the bohemian vibe here. Men and women of all ages and ethnicities are mingling on tables and are sipping tiny cups of Turk Kahvesi (Turkish Coffee) and smoking Nargile (hookah or sheesha).

We order a Turkish coffee and one menangic coffee (pistachio coffee) that is a sort of a Gaziantep speciality. It is served with a small bowl of munchies in the form of nuts. The crowd is very fashionable and happening and perhaps it is the new age Turkey that we are seeing!

The interiors are kept warm with heaters and there are small open spaces on the upper part close to the roof for fresh air to come in and the smoke to go out. We sit and also pen down the highlights of our Turkey trip in the diary.

We think of ordering a 30TL Nargile later. It is around 4 pm and we meet a police guy who is overjoyed to take a photograph with Indians!

On the street, it is cold as usual and we realise the tiredness in our bodies. We walk back to Efe Bey Konagi and come across a Tekel shop (alcohol shop). On the way we see antique carpets and bags in the market; I am fascinated but keep my curiosity for another time.

At the Tekel shop, we have our eyes set on a Terra Kalecik Karasi 2016 Rose wine and get it for 40 TL. The wines in Turkey seem to have become costlier and I remember buying the same wine on an earlier trip for 25TL earlier.

Our boutique heritage homestay has 2 tables set in the open courtyard and wine glasses are kept on tables. We sit outside and sip wine, a stray leaf comes and falls around us. A slight drizzle begins, and we begin feeling Christmassy! After all, it is 25th December!

We sit in the room for a while and enjoy the warmth of the wood and the heating. It is a welcome bit of relaxation for us especially because we were really not feeling well in the morning.

We step out for an early dinner and decide to find a local lokantasi (cheap home cooked food place) for dinner; to balance for the especially costly food we had for lunch! Since we have already explored the heritage side of the street, we decide to go to the other side which has more chances of catering to the locals.

As if on cue; we are able to quickly locate a local eatery and are welcomed wholeheartedly by the staff. Our mention of Hindistanis makes them even more endearing towards us!

The staff is really helpful and help us in ordering a çorba and tavuk sis kebab which comes with complimentary tasty salad and breads. The food turns out to be very tasty and they also keep filling our cups with more Turkish çay. The warmth of the tandoor and the kindness in their hearts makes it a wonderful experience. We quickly remember to give them 2 masala chai sachet’s that we are carrying and thank them for a wonderful dinner!

Since our bottle of the rosé wine is already over, we go to a nearby tekel shop and buy a red wine bottle for 25 TL. This tekel shop doesn’t have much variety and we buy whatever the seller recommends.

On the walk, we come across another fancy looking boutique Hotel or Konagi and see a room that is quoted at 200 TL. We feel temptation in our heart and step into Imam Çagdas restaurant and ask for a cevizli baklava (walnut-filling baklava). It is cheaply priced at 14 TL and is okay-ish at best.

When we are walking in the old city of Gaziantep, it looks surreal when it is lit up in the night. The markets are already closed at about 8 pm and the streets are deserted. We sit on one of the benches and appreciate the cold breeze and the chill in the air. It is time to head back to our mansion, Efe Bey Konagi. The Gaziantep Kalesi looks beautiful in the night in warm lights.

The room is quite cold and we have to put the heating on after multiple tries of somehow making it work! We have not taken a decision yet on staying in Gaziantep or when to leave for Konya or Antalya. We do a lot of research and it ultimately feels like a waste of time when no solution is found. We decide to start watching a Christmas movie to change the mood but are very tired and our bodies are telling us to stay in Gaziantep for 1 more day.

We check the nearby hotels in Gaziantep one last time and come across one Rahmi Bey Konagi Butik Otel shown on some website for INR 1150 for a loft room. It is well past 10 pm as we hear the sound of pitter patter and go off to sleep in the cosy blanket.

With no onward plan in mind, we wake up to a rainy morning. It is a gloomy day, and even at 9 am it feels dark. We are still in two minds whether to stay in Gaziantep or leave for Konya. Ideally we would love to stay in Gaziantep because we have hardly seen anything here but the fact is that the weather is too cloudy and cold to properly enjoy it at this time.

At first, we go to the tiny breakfast room for the kahvalti. It is drizzling intermittently and is very cold with a strong breeze blowing. There’s a couple from Istanbul on the next table and for them Gaziantep is like a weekend vacation. The breakfast is excellent and we have multiple helpings of Turkish çay to make us feel warm. We get back to the room, finish our packing and leave the bags in the hotel.

We start walking in rainy Antep and decide to ask the locals for a bus ticket booking office of Metro Turizm or one of the known bus companies so that we can figure out our plans. The streets and roads are all washed in the rain and look new. Thankfully we have carried an umbrella from India and have it handy. We keep shivering and walking in the rain. It is unrelenting and cold on the streets of Gaziantep.

On the way we come across a Princess Hotel in one of the lanes. The manager is kind and shows us a room; it is very nice and warm and he quotes 140 TL for a room. Even though we like it very much, we still don’t finalise a deal and want to walk somewhere and find a bus booking office.

Upon asking the locals for the bus booking office, there are contradictory directions given by multiple people. Someone says that the Metro Turizm office is nearby while others say the only bus offices are at Gaziantep Otogar. After getting wet in the non-stop drizzle, we align our mind to give up the search for Metro Turizm and start looking for other bus booking offices.

There is one Ben Turizm office with a 2+2 bus; since we are clear about only taking a 2+1 bus we don’t give it a thought. We are extremely tired now and decide to pick our bags and go directly to Gaziantep Otogar at about 5:30 pm. We have checked the different mobile applications and are already aware of the bus timings of all the bus services that run from the Otogar.

We finally stop looking for a bus office and start our search for one of Gaziantep’s most famous creations called Katmer to be eaten at Katmerci Zekeriya Usta. Thankfully, the drizzle stops and a local guy walks with us and shows us to Katmerci Zekeriya Usta. It is a very cute 4 table restaurant that only serves katmer, çay and one more dish.

We sit and ask for 1 portion of Katmer that is priced at 28 TL. The waitress is very happy to meet tourists from Hindistan and tells us that usually everyone orders one Katmer each. We notice that the people ordering an entire Katmer for themselves are struggling to finish it.

Katmer is a sort of a filo pastry with a filling of pistachios with cream. It is extremely rich in taste, the staff winks at me and says it is a natural viagra. I go to see the kitchen and am astonished with the fine making of the katmer and the round dish with the pistachio filling.

It is around 2 pm and we go around Bakircilar Carsisi and an old market at Bedesten. We come across a boutique hotel Rahmi Bey Konagi on the walk and decide to check it out. It is a beautiful heritage boutique hotel and has cave-like rooms that remind us of Cappadocia.

The lady at the hotel is very sweet and shows us a beautiful big room and quotes 140TL, it has 2 big beds! We really like the place and request her to give it to us for 100 TL. She says yes! The decision has been made; because the bus tickets have not been bought we can stay in Gaziantep for another day!

I am relieved more than anything else and now we can go to Efe Bey Konagi and get our bags. At Rahmi Bey Konagi, it is still drizzling and the lady gives us 2 cups of Turkish çay.

We meet a couple from Tekirdag who are just leaving. They recommend to us baklava at Celebiogullari and Koçak as the two best places in Gaziantep. They are also carrying a big bag of Baclavaci Celebiogullari and we remember the name to go to the exact place among the plethora of baklava sellers in Antep. We thank them and give them masala chai from India!

We bring our bags and sit in the courtyard. In the meanwhile, the manager of Rahmi Bey Konagi, Yahya uncle comes and greets us! He is a chatty man and invites us inside their house that is located in the same building. We keep our bags inside the room and realise it is nice and warm because it is an old construction. Inside Yahya uncle’s home, it is cosy and we sit and click pictures with their cat, pakeezah.

It is a great cultural exchange and we have to use google translator to continue our conversations. We are plied with plenty of Turkish çay and in exchange make Indian masala chai for them which they didn’t like. Yahya uncle said that he was just the caretaker and that he lived in a small village 20 kms out of Gaziantep.

We take glasses for wine and go back to the room. It is good to be finally able to relax and sit and sip wine and eat the snacks that we had carried from India. We also write the diary and congratulated ourselves on the small victory even on a difficult day. It is an amazing room with lots of space and we are able to even dry our clothes that have got wet while walking in the rain.

Mosques in Gaziantep

There are many mosques in the heritage area of Sahinbey, Gaziantep. We see most of them from the outside and some of them from the inside : Sirvani Mosque, Boyaci Mosque, Omeriye Camii, Independence Mosque.

Carpets in Gaziantep

We step outside at around 5 pm and go around Bedesten old market to see the traditional market under lights; and meet Syrian refugees in a carpet shop. It is surprising to notice that they speak better english than Turkish people.

We go to Yesemek restaurant again for an early dinner and share a veg soup dish with veggies and chickpeas with pilaf rice. The staff has become like friends since we have visited many times and served us multiple cups of bergamot çay. We like it so much that we end up buying the bergamot tea leaves before going back to India. It is Earl Gray Lipton Bergamot çay.

We are happy and content with the simple dinner and walk to Baklavaci Celebiogullari for baklava. There are so many varieties that we get confused between deciding which one to eat. The staff is excited to see Hindistanis and give us 2 pieces to taste.

We are in awe with the taste, and announce it the best baklava in all of Gaziantep and Turkey. We ask for the same baklava for 10 TL. The serving boy is very kind and gives us 4 pieces! There are complimentary pistachios on the table and we sit and savour every bite of the baklava as a piece of heaven!

We thank the staff with all our heart, give them a masala chai and start walking back to our stay – Rahmi Bey Konagi. Yahya uncle shows us other rooms that are better but expensive and also the old painted ceiling of the building that is more than 100 years old.

We thank him for showing us these artistic parts and he treats us to one more çay before we say goodbye to him as he is driving to his village. We sit back in the room to decide our course of action for the next day and our next destination too – Konya or Antalya!

As we have met many locals travelling during the Christmas and New Year Holidays, we become slightly concerned with our lack of plans and ultimately arrive at a decision. We choose to drop Pamukkale from our plans; look at the bus schedules and agree to head to Antalya from Gaziantep. Konya shall be visited after Antalya and we look at 2-3 possible options of stay in Antalya.

It is a slightly difficult night as we are both feeling under the weather and cough and fever sets in. The cloudy weather of the day results in a steady drizzle all night. Thankfully there is a heater installed on the wall and that means we can dry our socks and other wet clothes.

We wake up at around 5 am; I open a window slightly to see that it is raining and is dark and very cold outside. It is 8 am when we finally wake up, ready to leave the cosy and warm bed. The blanket is especially soft and warm. I get a jug of hot water from the kitchen and make some Girnar masala chai. Yahya uncle has gone to his village and there is a young guy at the homestay instead.

Kahvalti (breakfast) is not included in the price of the room and aunty comes at around 10 am to tell us that Kahvalti for both of us will cost 50 TL. We decline the offer and choose to give our stomachs a break.

It continues raining and we sit and relax since our bus to Antalya will only be in the late hours of the evening. We finish writing the diary entries for the earlier days of the trip.

The hot water shower in the big bathroom is very comfortable and I instantly feel much better after a bath. We pack and leave the room at 12 noon. Our bags are kept in the outdoor space and aunty tells us we can pick them up anytime. We thank her and she responds by giving us a fridge magnet she has made herself.

Thankfully it is not raining anymore and we head directly to Yesemek Restaurant. We haven’t had breakfast today and it is time for brunch since we are quite hungry. We order 2 dishes and ask for kebap from the nearby shop. The food is excellent and is generously accompanied by salad, breads and tea. It costs 35TL + 14TL. The sky is overcast again and it begins drizzling as we buy the tickets to enter Gaziantep Castle.

Gaziantep Kalesi

Entry to Gaziantep Kalesi is 2TL. The drizzle is accompanied by cold winds. After the entrance there is a splendid museum inside which details the history of Gaziantep Castle.

We somehow manage to explore the different parts of this historic castle in the chilly wind. The museum shop has an excellent collection of bags and other stuff but the prices of the woven stuff are quite high and we end up not buying anything.

We finally decide to get a ticket to Antalya for the evening and began searching for a bus ticket office in the same region where we had explored the previous day. After a while we understand that there is no option of a 2×1 bus service.

Ben Turizm has a 2×2 bus and there is another bus company for expensive 125TL tickets. It starts raining heavily again and since we are unable to find a solution to our ticketing dilemma, we enter the office of a travel agent.

It is a big tourism office but they only do booking for flights. Luckily for us, the guy there speaks english and recommends us Ben Turizm or Sec Turizm buses which are both 2×2 seating options. He helps by telling us not to take Ozlem Diyarbakir and Can Diyarbakir as those bus services are bad. We thanked him and went to another bus ticketing office who is an agent for the online portal biletall.

He turns out to be a very kind guy who also speaks good english and recommends us to take Star Diyarbakir bus from Gaziantep to Antalya. The bus will leave at 715 pm and reach Antalya at 830 am next morning. We pay 100TL per person as it is a 2+1 bus and don’t receive any indirim (discount). I am very relieved to have finally booked the bus tickets to end the uncertainty.

It is around 2-230 pm and we stride back to Bakircilar Carsisi (Traditional Copper Market) and sit in Tahmis Kahvesi to write our diary entry. We ask for a Turkish coffee and zahter ( hot herbal drink). It only costs us 7TL+4 TL. Everyone is smoking nargile (hookah or sheesha).

We go to Baklavaci Celebiogullari for one last round of Baklava and try the kuru fistikli baklava for 10 TL. The staff is the same as the previous day and gives us 4 big pieces! We thank them and give tea packets as a gift.

The rain continues and has hardly stopped for 5-10 minutes throughout the day. We walk around and explore different Hali’s – they are beautiful buildings that serve as a complex of coffee shops, antique shops selling kilim carpets, unique textiles and souvenirs.

In one of the Hali shops, I come across stunning handmade carpets from Afghanistan, Iran and other countries being sold for a reasonable 200TL. I think about buying but realise that they are quite heavy in weight and we still have 10 more days for the return flight to India.

In a Syrian refugee shop, I notice a nicely designed carpet which is factory made. The gentleman at the shop quotes only 30TL for a huge 3×10 size runner. The small 2×3 size rugs are priced at 10TL. Some of the shops are selling locally designed bags for 10-20 TL each. If it was the last leg of our trip, it would have been a no-brainer to buy gifts for all and sundry back home.

We go back to our homestay at about 5 pm to pick our bags. Aunty has her sister and cousins visiting her. She invites us home and gives us 2 glasses of chai! The family is overjoyed to meet us and click a lot of pictures with their ‘Hindistan’ family. We ask for their leave as we still have to go to Gaziantep Otogar which is a fair distance away from here.

It starts drizzling again and thankfully the local bus stop is right on the road. A bus to the Otogar duly arrives and we jump on it. There are plenty of empty seats and even though we don’t have the AntepKart, a local lady helps us with the tickets and we pay her 6TL. The driver is less pleased but we somehow persuade him to keep calm since we have already paid the money.

The rain is really coming down hard and we are pleased no end to reach the Otogar at 625 pm without getting wet. A local guy helps us find the Star Diyarbakir Office, we are pleased to see that it is a big office which most likely means that the bus will be good!

For the first time in Turkey, we see security at the entry and our bags are scanned. Star Diyarbakir bus office guys check the ticket and ask us to wait.

The bus has originated from elsewhere and will come at the exact time. They tell us to keep our bags in their office and we do the same. There are lots of eateries at the Otogar and we ask for Çorba and pilav (bread comes complimentary). It is a basic but satisfying meal and costs 16TL. Using the WC is an additional charge of 1.5TL.

The bus doesn’t come at 715 pm, so the bus office guys take us to pillar number 20 and we wait. It duly comes at 725 pm! The bus looks fancy and clean and is almost full. We thank the office guys and step in. The seats allotted to us are excellent and we are so happy it is a comfortable 2+1 seating bus.

The Star Diyarbakir bus journey turns out to be an unexpected delight. On the road, I see a signboard for Syria and Aleppo is not very far away; I also spot directions for Damascus once in the dark. It all seems so exotic and I wonder if there were no visas, would we just travel anywhere we could?

The service in the bus starts and we are given çay and snacks. I wish all buses exiting from Antep must serve baklava! We thank the service guy and he gives us more snacks to keep and eat for later! The bus doesn’t stop till 11 pm validating our decision of having an early dinner.

Star Diyarbakir, you beauty. We arrive in Antalya at 8 am the next day.

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We woke up early in the morning and reached to the bus stop (at 7 am) which was hardly 5 mins from Newa Home (where we stayed, recommended by a friend). There were 4-5 buses and all of them were headed to either Pokhara or other tourist-friendly destinations. I noticed that 3 of the buses were bound for Pokhara. Our aim was to catch the bus which would leave the earliest.

Also read : A Day in Misty Kurseong

We were 4 of us and knew that since it was off season, there was plenty of scope for bargaining on the bus ticket price. A guy approaches us from the Kathmandu-Pokhara Air Conditioned bus, scheduled to leave at 730 am and quotes a price of 800 per person. After checking that the seats were in the middle and not the rear, we agreed a final price of 600 Nepali Rupees per person.

There were many foreigners in the bus and were rushing the bus to leave on time. The bus guy took us aside and told us there’s still 15 minutes for us to start our journey and that we can eat something if we want. We were hungry and found a small local eatery serving tea, sell roti with chickpeas. The bus leaves on time and is almost full. We hope to reach Pokhara by 130 pm as the distance from Kathmandu to Pokhara is only 180 kms.

It begins drizzling after we cross the sizeable city of Kathmandu and we are stuck in a massive traffic jam around 930 am. We are reminded of India a decade or two ago with the chaos of the traffic jam with no news of its resolution. The progress is painfully slow and instead of reaching Pokhara at 130 pm, we have just reached a lunch place set by the river!

The restaurant-dhaba is an expensive place, with buffet lunch for NPR 300 per person. We are hungry and have no choice but to eat; the spread is excellent though with salad, papad, noodles, dall, rice, and 2 vegetable curries. The sitting area is shaded and we eat well considering it might be our only meal of the day. It is sweltering hot and humid and we are grateful for having chosen an air conditioned bus over the faster but non-ac maxi shared taxi instead.

We are ecstatic when the conductor announces that we have reached Pokhara at about 4 pm. The bus parking is at an almost inaccessible place full of slush, leading to a gaggle of taxi operators quoting astronomical prices. We made our way out of the area and immediately found a taxi for NPR 200 that dropped us close to Phewa Lake. Our aim was to find a reasonably priced place to stay in Pokhara.

I hadn’t done any research and entered a lane full of guest houses and were able to finalise a nice place for 1200 NPR for 2 rooms. It was a family run place with some open spaces; the bathroom was shared but since we there were only 4 of us – it was no problem at all. The young guy at the reception was happy to fill our bottles with filter water and that really saved us a lot of money!

Phewa Lake

After having done all this in less than an hour, there was still plenty of time left for us to stroll to Phewa Lake. There was a temple at the start of the entry point to Phewa Lake I was mightily surprised to see some geisha-like tourists there. It was nice to know that there were no entry charges for the entrance to the lakeside.

It felt like a festive atmosphere as we strolled on the walking path around Phewa Lake. Many local families were out for a picnic with their kids. Colourful boats occupy centerstage in the lake and with the sun setting with the mountain view, made for a pristine sight. I enjoyed clicking photographs of the serene setting.

To the right of the walking path, there were restaurants and cafe’s advertising fast foods, snacks, juices, offers on drinks and beers! Prices of the restaurants were quite high because this was a proper tourist spot. Sunset on Phewa Lake seemed like an especially popular time and there were also some street sellers grilling fresh meat and selling ‘sekuwa’. It felt like a wonderland, full of happy people with smiling faces.

We continued walking on the path and sat whenever we felt the urge to enjoy the views fully. There were 2 people/4 people boats and we saw few tourists enjoying their time boating in the lake. The ticket counter had rates for the same which seemed quite reasonable. Some hawkers were also selling freshly prepared corn on cob. The cafés located farther away look prettier and some of them are playing live music to entice the passersby!

Some of the prettier looking cafés are full of foreigners – they are on the other side of the lake and have calmer sitouts, mellow lights, relaxed music and cheap beer! It is a joyful atmosphere with impromptu guitar and singing sessions. We start having hunger pangs with the lunch feeling like a distant memory now!

The air is still pretty humid and we are thankful for the breeze without which it would have been quite sweaty on the walk. The sunset is stunning and while we debated about sitting at one of cafés and enjoying beer (150 NPR for San Miguel beer), we ended up being indecisive and walked to the main street before it got dark. Many guest houses and hostels for backpackers. Advertised food joints serving different variety of food; Tibetan, Vietnamese, Chinese, European.

Free-wifi is advertised prominently; it reminds me of backpacker friendly tourist destinations in India many years ago where wifi is a popular way of enticing international tourists. We come across a stunningly beautiful restaurant by the name of Byanjan – done up in gorgeous blue and white colours but it turns out to be super expensive when we check the menu! We sit on the upper floor of a nearby restaurant and sip draught Sherpa beer and eat excellent Margarita Pizza.

The staff recommends an authentic Nepali restaurant for dinner nearby, one Fewa Thakali Bhanchha Ghar. We enter the eatery and are pleasantly surprised to see it is fully occupied with local families. The interior sitting space is in a traditional style, walls are in maroon and white with low tables and cushions laid out on the floor. We find a solitary empty table on the roof and grab the same!

The food turns out to be excellent; served in brass plates. We were recommended momos made with buckwheat and a thali which was full of greens that had a unique taste. The prices are reasonable too for the excellent and authentic variety of food and the Thali costs us NPR 300. We thank the staff and go walking on the streets of Pokhara.

There are cyclewallahs as fruit sellers roaming on a cycle with a juicer and offering fruits like pineapples, avocados, mangoes, banana, oranges etc like a mobile fruit market on wheels! Its fun to see them stop wherever they see foreign tourists. Pokhara is a busy market with many souvenir shops. We enter a shop selling Tibetan singing bowls, and it has a wide and staggering variety. The singing bowls make a serene and calming sound but the handmade ones are priced very high (medium sized ones at NPR 1500) and we choose not to buy anything for the moment.

We walk back to our guest house and are relieved that the weather has turned cooler with the recent rain. It is decided to head to Begnas Tal next morning as my friends Jai & Prerita are staying there and highly recommend the area. Sleep comes in no time with the tiredness of the bus ride!

I had spotted the bus from Pokhara to Begnas Tal and found that the starting point of the same was from Phewa Lake itself! So, we woke up in the morning, had chai and an early breakfast and got ready quickly to leave in the bus bound for Begnas Tal. The ticket is only 60 NPR per person and we are the only 4 people in the bus when it starts from Phewa Lake! It is a comfortable bus and will take around an hour for the 25 odd kilometre distance to Begnas Tal.

We call Jai after the bus drops us in Begnas Tal. He explains the directions to get to a place called Sanu Lake on D Water. A local street festival is going on in Begnas Tal, we are delighted to see the dances and the ladies all dressed for the occasion. We keep walking across Begnas Tal lake, cross a small hillock and arrive at the beautifully located Sanu Lake on D Water.

Sanu Lake on D Water in Lekhnath

It is a pristine scene, with not a soul around and calm, placid waters of the lake. There are blue and yellow coloured boats in the water and with the surrounding green hills look very pretty. We meet with Sanu and check the rooms and agree on the price. It is a gorgeously located guest house with rustic tables set in an open sit-out very close to the lake.

Sanu tells us that some of the rooms are blessed with views of the Himalayan peaks when the weather is clear. Kayaking is also possible in the lake and Jai has already told me about the fantastic swimming experiences possible here. Relaxed opera music is being played and reflections of the nearby mountains in the water look enchanting. We fix the prices with Sanu @800 NPR per room including breakfast.

We only plan to stay for a night here as Jai & Prerita are going to be moving to a higher area in Pokhara itself and we plan to see that region too! We walk out and spot some nicely located tiny eateries near the lake, it is a surreal setting for sure. Some of the walls at Sanu Lake on D Water are painted with graffiti and they also have life jackets available for for swimmers. Jai calls and asks us to come to the village where a festival is being held in the fields!

The rice fields are submerged in water and youngsters are happily singing and dancing in the muddy water over some funny looking competitions! Its very humid and we find a shaded corner to protect ourselves in the harsh sun. Locals are watching the proceedings and it is an especially funny scene to see foreigners rolling in the mud too!

I decide to try a bread at a small bakery and it turns out to be delicious! Jai & Prerita take us to a home run eatery near Sanu Lake on D Water. We order thalis and the family sets about the task of making everything fresh. Food takes a lot of time to appear but is well worth the wait when it does. Rice, fried potatoes, dall, vegetable, curd, chutney and salad and the puri sabji is excellent too.

It is the World Cup 2019 and today is England vs India; Jai leads us to an open air space with an expansive view of Begnas Tal and a television screen. We happily drink Nepali beer (300 NPR per bottle) like Gorkha and Everest while playing UNO. Jai is mostly interested in watching cricket and all of us take turns with the match too! It is a supremely serene setting. We go back in the evening after an early dinner of chowmein at a small eatery nearby because the food at Sanu is quite expensive!

We watch India losing the cricket match under the stars on the roof with Jai’s VPN connection! There is no electricity for a few hours and it is blissful to enjoy the stars overhead. We all go for a short swim in the lake in the darkness when Jai insists it is an unbelievable experience!

Click to view slideshow.

It is a comfortable sleep with the breeze blowing and next morning we enjoy the tea and breakfast sitting by the lake. The sun is out and we jump in the water to enjoy the blissfully cool lake! Tranquil setting with live guitar playing, a traveller is playing and singing. Breakfast is roti, potatoes, egg bhurji and fruits.

We check out and Sanu’s true colours are revealed when Jai & Prerita try to settle their bill! He has apparently charged them for beers that they never had. We have been charged princely prices for bananas and fat rotis that he has served in the name of breakfast which he had included in the prices earlier! We somehow end the matter without a fight and pay up (nodding to ourselves that we had correctly judged Sanu’s cunning character but had still let him work his charms on us.)

Dinesh House Deorali & Robin’s Nest Deorali

We walk to the market in Begnas Tal and book 2 small Maruti Altos to drop us to Deorali area, an uphill climb of 3 kms. Pay 150 NPR each cab, very reasonable. We get down close to a temple and continue walking to reach Dinesh House (where Jai’s room is booked for 2 weeks!). There are no spare rooms at Dinesh House and we check out the nearby Robin’s Nest. The woman in charge there shows us the rooms and even though they are not very well ventilated, the weather is mild and we agree on a price of INR 600 per room including breakfast.

It is a relaxed evening and we play UNO in Jai’s spacious room with a balcony at Dinesh House. Prerita orders our thalis too at their in-house kitchen. We go to the roof to catch the sunset amid the surreal evening skies. We enjoy a few chilled beers in the evening as the clouds turn stormy and bring rain in the night. We have an excellent dinner at Dinesh House, thanks to Jai & Prerita.

We come back to Robin’s Nest and it starts pouring down as soon as we are in our rooms! The electricity goes with the sky thundering intermittently and it continues raining for a good two hours. We sleep well and wake up to the the best sight of our trip (or life?!)

The skies have cleared and the majestic Annapurna range is visible from our balcony. Our guest house, Robin’s Nest is perfectly located for this view and we lounge around on the hammock and take in the surreal sight of 8000 metre peaks in clear view! Jai and Prerita also join us and tell us that we are very lucky to see this sight in the monsoon month of July. We enjoy the show for an hour or so until the clouds decide to come back.

After breakfast, we have a shower and decide to walk around the area. It has progressed into a hot day with the sun out in full force. We visit the nearby Deorali temple and are stunned with the majestic wood carvings. The entrance to the temples in Nepal is very ornate and artistic. I am especially glad to come across a non-touristy local temple in a real village.

It is afternoon time and we are all hungry with all the aimless walking around in the humidity. We come across a small eatery run by a lady and ask her if she can make noodles with mint chutney and vegetables? She says it will take time as everything will be freshly made. We are pleased with the answer and decide to wait and help her in making it! The noodles take around 45 minutes to make and turn out to be the most delicious noodles of our entire Nepal trip.

We go back happily to Deorali and witness the cloudy skies in the evening with the beautiful landscape and the views of Begnas Tal lake. It is time for another round of UNO and dinner at Dinesh House. It rains in the evening making the proceedings cooler. The food is delicious again and we also watch another World Cup cricket match in progress. We decide to drop all plans for Muktinath or hiking in the Pokhara region and plan to get to Kathmandu next day(Bhaktapur.)

The cloud cover is heavy in the morning and the mountains are not clearly visible. We have tea and breakfast with the greenery glistening in the brief period of sunshine. In an hour or so, when the clouds part a gap in the clouds reveals a dazzling array of peaks! It is like a goodbye photograph from Pokhara as we are going to leave in some time.

We all leave for Pokhara first for a pizza treat (losers in the UNO game) and decide on Roadhouse Café as the venue. See some souvenir shops selling Shaligrams. The pizza is ok-ok and we eat cake and pastries for dessert at another nearby place. Say goodbye to Jai and Prerita and thank them for a lovely time!

We decide to go by shared maxi cab while going back. We are quoted 600 NPR per seat but the intense competition between the cabs works and we get into a maxi cab for 400 NPR per person! They are faster than a bus but non-aircontioned. Thankfully the weather is good today and we have reasonable space in the maxi cab!

We reach Kathmandu at around 8 pm.

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My Favourite Cafés & Restaurants in Delhi (In no particular order)

Lavaash by Saby

Tucked in a corner of Mehrauli, Lavaash by Saby is located in a plush white compound with oodles of open space. Lavaash by Saby is on the first floor and has both indoor and outdoor seating. The interiors are done in a pleasing shade of yellow and blue and are perfect for summers while the open air sitting area surrounded by greenery is minimalistic in white and makes for a cosy place to savour the delightful sun on winter afternoons. The music is slow and nice and I’d recommend to come to Lavaash by Saby to actually spend time here!

Food at Lavaash by Saby is a delightful mix of authentic Armenian with a twist of Bengali. Armenia has the distinction of discovering the tandoor (toner in Armenian). The cocktail that I tried was a mix of Mahua Mehul made with mahua flower berries mixed with gin and a hint of basil. It was served in a small bucket and was really potent and tasty. We’d ordered two dishes and both turned out to be unique and good. The Ponchiki pastry for dessert was my favourite memory of that day – it is an Armenian version of filled doughnuts pastry cream. As you walk out, the ethereal sight of Qutub Minar brings you back to reality.

Verdict : Perfect for dates; a little overpriced considering the quantity. 

Triveni Terrace Café

I first heard about Triveni Terrace from some Uttarakhandis who told me that this café was the best place to eat their food in Delhi! Triveni Terrace Café is located opposite the FICCI auditorium and is a part of the Triveni Kala Sangam that is an art centre (for music, plays, dance). This quaint space is always busy with creative people and another place where the food takes the onus. The decor is minimalist with cast iron chairs set in a petite space.

I’ve eaten at Triveni Terrace Café at least 6 times and each time has been memorable. The charm of Triveni Terrace Café has been its simplicity and the wholesome food; and the staff is from Uttarakhand (brownie points for mountain people!). Among the all time favourites here are Sabudana Khichdi, Palak Patta Chaat, Gunpowder Ragi Idli, Cold Coffee and their daily special thali – on a special menu which differs everyday.

Verdict : When you are hungry and want calm with epic food, go to Triveni Terrace Café.

Café Di Ghent

For starters there are two Di Ghent places – one is the Di Ghent Boulangerie and one is the Di Ghent Café. I visited both and while the café food was good as well; my express recommendation is majorly for the boulangerie. Both the Di Ghent’s are located in a mall in Gurgaon but once you are inside the Di Ghent Boulangerie – you might as well have been in Ghent, Belgium! (For those who are not aware – Ghent is a medieval city in Belgium.)

The boulangerie is a tiny space with only 4 tables and has the unmissable aroma of fresh bakes and coffee. It is a very warm setting and the bigger space of the café eatery is also nice for lovely winter afternoons. With names of dishes like Vossenhol, Dendermonde on the menu, you might think you need help with the Belgian! In fact, the entire menu’s dishes are Belgian names with proper descriptions in English. Their desserts and bakes are legendary.

Verdict : A little expensive, but hey you don’t take the money to the grave!

Cravity

Away from the choc-a-bloc cafés and eateries of Hauz Khas Village, Cravity comes like a whiff of fresh air that you expect from your next door café. And it does fulfil all the promises and more! It is located in the chić Hauz Khas area and is littered with expats working away on their laptops while sipping hot chocolate. There is no rush at Cravity and it affords you all the time in the world.

Cravity is tiny; and at 6 tables in the gorgeously done little space with white interiors and French newspapers and photographs hanging on the walls lends a warm feel. I first started going to Cravity for their impeccable desserts – Prince of Chocolate, Decadence and Beurre Salé Au Chocolat and had the good fortune of tasting the best Hot Chocolate ever there.

When I’m in Delhi, this is one of my favourite places to work from. I especially love their Khao Suey, Asian style Udon Noodles and their freshly made thin crust pizzas – among other things. Next time you want to order a cake for someone’s birthday – order the Prince of Chocolate cake from Cravity; thank me later.

Verdict : Winner on all counts; & affordable too! Psst. Just pray that Cravity lasts forever. 

Among my other recommended choices are Café Dori, Tamil Nadu Canteel and Karnataka Food Centre. 

Chateau de Pondichéry

A glorious mix of Tamil and French cuisine, Chateau de Pondichéry is located in the nondescript area of Adchini but boasts of incredibly beautiful interiors. The lighting and decor compliments the white walls; and also the small knick-knacks lend Chateau de Pondichéry a very warm and homely feel. It is a nice and cosy place perfect for lazy evening dates; with room and plenty of space for conversations.

The owners are always around and I recommend asking for their opinions on the dishes that you want to order. The sambar rice and a different variety of dosai was very well made and served in a nice, innovative style. Another plus point of dining at Chateau de Pondichéry is that it is quite affordable. Digital workers might like this place as a relaxed place to work with comfortable interiors and nice lighting.

Click to view slideshow.

Verdict : Perfect for a third or fourth date or eating out with friends. 

Lodi – The Garden Restaurant

Lodi does things with nonchalance and understated elegance; but there’s no denying the charm of this iconic restaurant. It is spread in plenty of space in a garden with canopies and lovely tables. The whole setting shouts ‘romance’ with a capital R and if you are in Delhi, then this is the place to go for your first date. Lodi never disappoints and while I recommend winter afternoons for intimate lunches; my mind wants to equally suggest cozy dinners with the gorgeous overhead red lights.

The food is mostly a mix of Lebanese and Mediterranean dishes; and while it is on the pricier side – it is well worth it. The quantities are enormous and 2 dishes will suffice for 2 people. My favourite dishes have been the couscous, paella primavera and the vegetarian platter while the banoffee pie is sinfully good. Lunch / Dinner for two will cost approx. INR 2500.

Verdict : Find that special someone and you know where to go on your first date!

Andhra Bhavan

In Delhi, the different State Government canteens are the most recommended places to sample regional cuisines and the Andhra Pradesh Bhavan Canteen is the most famous of them all! And for good reason too; the long queues outside Andhra Bhavan are regulars and swear by this eatery’s Sunday Special Hyderabadi Dum Chicken Biryani. Vegetarians need not fret as their South Indian vegetarian thali has a dazzling array of authentic fare including sweets, veggies, lentils, puri and rice.

Andhra Bhavan doesn’t pretend to be a fine dine restaurant and food is the only focus here. It is affordable for the same reason and the original purpose of all State Bhavan Canteens was to cater to the state government officers. I recommend coming around 1145 am on Sunday to avoid the crowds and eat heartily before the food runs out!

Verdict : The hustle and bustle is worth it; South style!

Saravana Bhavan

The most recommended go-to place for South Indian food and Saravana Bhavan is a clear winner. There are queues at any time of the day or year, outside all the branches of this popular eatery across Delhi. Waiting usually doesn’t take more than a few minutes and once the food makes its way to your mouth, its all worth it! Have eaten here mutiple times and Saravana Bhavan has always been consistent.

Their ghee roast dosai, other dosai, rava onion dosai, variety of rice, uttapam are excellent. I also tried their vegetarian thali and that was out of the world delicious. Highly recommend Saravana Bhavan’s mini tiffin and quick lunch for basic and homely south Indian food. Psst. If anyone hasn’t told you how yummy South Indian desserts are; now’s your chance to try them out!

Verdict : A tad expensive, but still remains the top choice for South Indian food in Delhi. 

Drums of Heaven

The more I eat at Drums of Heaven; the more I want to keep the name of this not-so-famous eatery to myself! Located in Green Park area, close to Hauz Khas ‘Drums of Heaven’ is a fine dine eatery serving authentic Chinese with beautiful warm interiors. It is almost a blissful experience to savour fine lunch here as its almost always sparsely crowded during the day.

Drums of Heaven boasts of a large menu and has a great variety of dishes for both the vegetarians and the non-vegetarians. From playing lovely music complimenting the decor to the dimsums, I have not tired of eating here even after a dozen times! Dining at Drums of Heaven is affordable in the sea of overpriced Chinese restaurants. I’d recommend to go here for a no expectations, very happy after-effect!

Verdict : My go-to place for authentic Chinese food in Delhi!

Café Lota

Located within the Crafts Museum near Pragati Maidan, Café Lota feels like an upgraded version of Triveni Terrace Café and has taken traditional Indian food to an entirely new level. In the age of offbeat; here the menu is really offbeat and unique regional dishes are the order of the day at Café Lota. Like Triveni Terrace Café, the staff is from Uttarakhand and are quite helpful in making you decide your chosen order.

Among the old favourites at Café Lota are Kumaoni Raita, Kokum Masala Soda, Appam, Bajre ka Chila, Ladakhi Bread, Kerala vegetable stew, Sattu parantha with chokha and a whole lot of other traditional preparations from across India – all prepared in the right manner. Café Lota errs on the costlier side and does not have the fine dine vibe; but if food is the only thing that matters then you are in the right place. Come early for dinner, Café Lota closes at 2130.

Verdict : Multiple visits a must, because we have a limited stomach! 

Click to view slideshow.

Maharashtra Sadan (Bhavan)

After visiting 4-5 State Bhavans in Delhi, it was decided one day that we head to Maharashtra Bhavan for lunch. When one person has a craving for pooran poli; while another one speaks about mirchi ka thecha and the third one simultaneously dreams about jowari ki roti – then you know where you are going that day! Maharashtra Sadan is located near India Gate and is another State Bhavan Canteen with the primary job of serving the state officials.

Among the other popular bhavans; its a real surprise to eat at Maharashtra Sadan and realise that not many people know about this eatery. In that manner, it exceeds your expectations even though a mighty surprise awaited us to know that jowar flour was in short supply even at the state government canteen! Maharashtrian food lovers will like the sound of sol kadi, bharali wangi, pitla, amti and a multi-page menu full of local dishes. If you are confused, there’s an option of ordering the reasonably priced vegetarian thali for only INR 120.

Verdict : Must try once, and then get back on the Delhi/Bombay debate! 

Coast Café

Coast Café describes itself as a casual dining place but let me tell you nothing about this classy eatery in Hauz Khas Village is just casual. From the regular diners here, to the sophisticated hushed tone conversations – this place reeks of class and the food only elevates the feeling to a higher level. Coast Café is a multi-level eatery located on the second and third floors of a boutique shop. It has a limited menu and serves classic Kerala Cuisine.

This chić café is effortless when it comes to elegant ambience and I recommend both lunch and dinner for an entirely different experience each time. The soft light during the day will result in instagram worthy photographs while cold winter evenings at Coast will be etched in your heart with the mulled wine for company. My favourites here are appam and malabar parotta with Mom’s aubergine Kokum curry and the simple Rainy Day Vegetable Stew.

Click to view slideshow.

Verdict : Possibly the most sophisticated place for Kerala food in the capital. 

Kuremal Mohan Lal Kulfi Wale

As you meander the lanes of Old Delhi, no matter how full your tummy is – Kuremal Mohan Lal Kulfi Wale holds the deserved stop for dessert. This humble kulfi shop in Chawri Bazaar has been delighting food fanatics since forever and is regularly visited even by 60 year olds. The most popular flavours here are paan kulfi, anaar kulfi, faalsa kulfi, mango kulfi, jamun kulfi and fruit cream kulfi.

Since the fruits are seasonal, in summers they serve mango kulfi in a unique way – by presenting a full mango in which the insides have been scooped out and filled with delicious kulfi. In this age of instant gratification, the taste of kulfi at Kuremal Mohan Lal Kuremal Kulfi Wale will long linger in your memory until the insane crowds of Chandni Chowk & Chawri Bazaar come calling for your taste buds.

Click to view slideshow.

Verdict : They don’t make kulfi’s like this anymore. Come as often as you can!

The Tea Room

An old fashioned tea room in the heart of Hauz Khas Village is not what you might imagine in your wildest dreams! In the choice-a-bloc party lanes of HKV, the back lane near Naivedyam is quiet and The Tea Room is located in an unassuming space of the 2nd Floor of a famous Salon. The walls are tastefully done in rustic white while the interior decor has a very warm and homely feel, especially with the light music playing. The view from the windows is not bad either with the greenery of Deer Park on offer.

It is an unobtrusive space with a clear preference for calm. Tiny bells have been kept on the table to summon staff. The menu boasts of a classic English high tea for mellow evenings; and the scones are made to perfection. The crockery is high class bone china and I can imagine it was fine porcelain. The menu is detailed with a variety of teas, all day breakfasts and savouries, cold infusions, warm infusions, wellness concoctions, vegan smoothies, healthy juices.

Verdict : Forget time in the smog capital over brilliant scones and tea! 

Yeti – The Himalayan Kitchen

My love for the Himalayas is an open secret and when some friends spoke about Yeti and added The Himalayan Kitchen, I didn’t need a second invitation to rush to this eatery. In crowded with pubs-and-bars Hauz Khas Village (HKV), the quiet ambience of Yeti comes like a breath of fresh air. The cuisine is a mix of food from different Himalayan regions like Bhutan & Nepal.

Over numerous visits, I’ve eaten here numerous times and my favourites are Thakali Thali (Nepal) and Ema Datchi & Mushroom Datchi (Bhutan). For those missing a taste of Ladakh, there is the Tibetan Yak Butter Tea and Thenthuk too on the menu! The prices are reasonable too if you compare them to HKV standards. I’d recommend to come during the day to let the soulful music transport you to the mountains!

Verdict : Himalayan lovers unite at this iconic Delhi eatery! 

Soda Bottle Opener Wala, Khan Market

I studied college in Bombay and visiting the timeless Parsi eateries was our favourite experiences. The Brun Maska and Irani chai were staples and when SodaBottleOpenerWala came calling, we didn’t hesitate to go for lunch one day. The wry Parsi sense of humour is writ large in the interiors of this iconic Parsi eatery and makes it an instant mood changer.

The memories will come flooding back when you sink the spoon in the delicious apple pie and savour the kulfi straight from Parsi Dairy, you know life can wait today! But before the desserts, berry pulao and raspberry soda await – make it a lunch to remember. Khan Market is too crowded in the evenings and therefore I recommend lunch at SodaBottleOpenerWala.

Click to view slideshow.

Did you enjoy reading this post as much as I enjoyed penning it down?

Check other food posts :

Dham across Himachal Pradesh & Where to Eat It?

Food Heaven : Cafés & Restaurants in Auroville

Wisdom of Tradition : Food in Indian Baltistan

Top Cafés and Restaurants in Leh

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And in a mix of all kinds of experiences over multiple trips, these are a few of the offbeat delights of Wayanad.

Hostel Experience in Wayanad

Most people think that backpackers don’t have much choice in accommodation. I’d say thats quite an incorrect assumption. Backpackers and budget travellers are usually evolved travellers who are keen on seeking stays that are not huge multi-storeyed hotels. And on one such day, after an endless walk – I found myself at a hostel in Wayanad (Yes, hostel!).

The hostel was perched on a hillock in the midst of spice plantations and coffee estate, a blissful and true luxury in a hostel with a view of Chembra peak. Staying at this colonial looking abode converted into a luxury hostel, I was amazed with the breathtaking view of unmatched greenery, stunning peaks and cloud kissed mountains. And the best part was that this hostel is located away from a town in Wayanad and has clean beds, airy rooms and running hot water in the bathrooms. 

Among other facilities, cooking kitchen with all utensils, open-air lounge, wi-fi is available. Mobile network connectivity is not very great but who cares! I met other travellers from Bangalore and we did some stargazing in the night! 

Tranquility in Wayanad : Bamboo Rafting

A totally unexpected and one of the best offbeat experiences in entire Wayanad! The bamboo rafting activity is a superb mix of adrenaline rush with the calmness of nature.

Apparently, bamboo rafts were traditionally used as an indigenous method for farmers to transport rice across the river. Bamboo rafting is a relaxing activity and with luck, you can easily spot the famous Malabar Hornbill bird while on the 1 hour long experience.

The rafting was near Vythiri town in Wayanad on a tributary of Kabini river. Life jackets were provided and depending on the water level swimming in the river might be allowed for the participants if they desire. The best part about this experience was that I also tried rafting with the long pole-shaped oars!

Toddy Shops in Wayanad

Toddy tastes like a sweet fermented drink which turns stronger and more intoxicating as the day goes on. It is fresh and the locals swear by its medicinal properties, although toddy is also mildly intoxicating! Toddy shops are spread across Kerala and are a big hit with the locals. Many thanks to Johann for introducing me to toddy in Kochi! 

The food at the toddy shops is also top notch and it makes sense to spend evenings at the toddy shops in Wayanad for a local flavour. The entire bottle costs less than 100 Rupees and is a totally offbeat way to get high!

A hilarious anecdote : Once, I was walking to Pookode lake near Vythiri; it was evening time and just before I reached the lake there was a signboard indicating toddy shop. The sightseeing plan of the lake went for a toss and you know what happened next! 

Churches of Wayanad

It was wonderful to experience the splendour of the marvellous churches in different towns of Wayanad and I was lucky to attend the prayers as well. 

The prevalent religion in Kerala is Christianity and the churches of Wayanad are a great way to explore the architecture of Wayanad. Among the important churches that I saw was Assumption Forane Church which is situated in Sulthan Bathery. There was another newly built church that has a dazzling interior and is used for town ceremonies as well.

Kalpetta also houses a few churches and if its a Sunday you can attend the Sunday Mass as well. On one occasion, I saw a ceremony being conducted inside the gorgeous interiors of a Church in Sulthan Bathery.

Exotic Bamboo Rice in Wayanad

I must thank George for this as he was the one who took me around on his bike and enabled a taste of the rare preparation of bamboo rice made from bamboo flowers, that bloom only once in around 50 years. We ate it at one of the local eateries outside Edakkal Caves. 

Bamboo rice is a rare variety of rice that is grown out of bamboo flowers; and apparently this phenomena happens once every 50 years or so and then the bamboo tree dies after that. It’s a fascinating natural process. The rice has low fat and is rich in vitamin B. The tribes in Kerala use this rice to cure joint pain owing to the presence of vitamins. The bamboo rice payasam or sweet porridge is a mix of bamboo rice, jaggery and other ingredients and was really really tasty!

Authentic Kerala Sadhya

Sadhya is the traditional Kerala meal served on a banana leaf. Every important function or festival is served with Sadya. There are more than 24 dishes on Sadhya comprising of par boiled red rice, savouries, pickles, avial, koottukary, puliserri, olan, sambar, rasam, pachadi and payasam. There are many other dishes served and it is best experienced to relish the sadhya rather than read about it!

Sadya is a dazzling array of flavours that I will remember for a lifetime. While in the earlier days, it was served at feasts and people used to sit on the floor; In the modern setting, tables and chairs are used while the use of banana leaf is mandatory. I wished I had a bigger stomach when I enjoyed the sadhya!!

Spice Plantation Walk

What a walk through a scenic plantation of coffee, vanilla, nutmeg and other spices!

This spice plantation walk was in a 150 acre area in South Wayanad. The spices grown in the highlands of Wayanad are sent to Calicut, Kochi and other parts of Kerala for trade (I got some as well!) Apart from coffee estates and tea gardens; pepper, coconut, nutmeg, cardamom and other spices are cultivated here. According to locals – Growing spices also helps aerate the soil and keep the coffee free of weeds.

As you walk through the vast area with coffee plantations, paddy fields, spices you wonder if you have entered a spice haven with the rich aroma around. It is fascinating to learn the process of coffee beans from the tree to how it ends up in our coffee mug!

Organic and Sustainable Farm

Thanks to George again for taking me to the Golden Greens estate. It is great for birding besides leisurely walks to understand how organic coffee and tea are cultivated. One can also participate in farm work and learn the traditional and old methods of farming. In the core area of the estate, the huge natural reservoir fed by natural springs is important for local flora and fauna.

The sustainable and organic farm was located only 3.5 kms from Ambalavayal town. It is spread over 5 acres and is a really tranquil place. The various activities that one can experience on a volunteering experience here are : Handmade tea, Eco Farm Experiences, Eco Farm Produces, Bio Fertilisers, Plantation activities, Organic Farming.

Tea Tasting in a Historical Tea Estate

After taking a winding road, we reached the 1930s Parisons tea estate. The grandeur and colonial feel of the bungalow with the cool breeze was very welcoming. The tea gardens are perched on a mountain top and are a part of the 4000 acre tea garden set among green mountains.

In this charming British era tea estate, I learnt the fascinating process of tea making from growing it to the final step of tea tasting. The tea tasting expert will enlighten you on the intricate art of brewing the perfect cup of tea and the difference between various teas made at the estate. He will also show you the right way of sipping the tea and the other nuances of tea tasting.

In the multiple trips to Wayanad, these were a few offbeat experiences that I recollect. It was a great beginning to my South Indian sojourns and were very reasonable on the pocket!

More posts from South India :

St. Francis Church, Kochi & India’s Colonial History

Danish Delight in India – Tranquebar (Tharangambadi)

A Travel Guide to Pondicherry’s Attractions

Food Heaven : Cafés & Restaurants in Auroville

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I was solo travelling in Northeast India in December and was loving my experiences; even though the infrastructural difficulties meant a lot of time was spent in moving from one place to another. When the clock neared noon, I put a limit of 1 pm in my own mind. The 1 pm limit meant if I couldn’t find a ride for Imphal; then I would just head back to find a homestay near Kohima and try afresh the next day.

Check : Cherry Blossoms in Nagaland, India

I had decided to stop all MN numbered cars headed towards Manipur border and ask them for a ride. A kind samaritan had been the only person to give me a short 5 km ride to a conveniently placed bus stop towards Manipur; all the other yellow sumo taxis were either full or were not going to Imphal.

Mao town, the entry to Manipur from Nagaland – was hardly 15 kms away but I was totally uncertain about the stay and the safety situation there and therefore opted to say no when some yellow taxis indicated that they were heading to Mao. Like Shantaram says, ‘Luck is what happens to you when fate gets tired of waiting.’; once the rain slowed down to a drizzle a SUV stopped. There was no other way; as I was standing in the middle of the road whenever I saw a MN (Manipur) numbered vehicle.

Read : A Backpacking Guide to Meghalaya

It was full with Manipuri college kids returning after attending the Hornbill Festival. The SUV was full but they listened to my ordeal and indicated that their friends are coming in a Maruti Swift and they have one seat in the car. As they spoke, the Swift was right behind us and while the cool college kids communicated amongst themselves; I ran to pick my bag and the Swift guys indicated to me to get in! They said they were going all the way to Imphal and would be pleased to help an outsider explore their state. I was overjoyed!

What a cool bunch of kids; beer drinking; pot smoking and some really insane music! I can’t thank you enough, guys! The road from Kohima to Imphal has to be one of the worst in entire India. The landscape was surreal; clouds rose from the lush green fields as our car negotiated the way on a road that was more of potholes and less of a road. And to make things worse, the rain had created slush so bad that I remember seeing a truck that had overturned on the side of the road. So much so for naming this highway the Asian Highway 1 (AH1) as it connected directly to Moreh, Myanmar.

We had tasty lunch at a local eatery in a place called Maram Bazaar at around 3 pm. They had kept my eating preferences in mind and stopped at a Hindu Vegetarian Hotel. I somehow forced the kids to accept money for the lunch, and after some time they did. They were very happy to taste the rice wine that I was carrying with me and wondered how they had missed it at Hornbill Festival!

Check : A Mixed Experience – Mechuka in Arunachal Pradesh

After that we crossed Senapati town and the landscape and valleys became even more greener and serene. Stunning sunset colours juxtaposed with the swaying rice fields of Manipur. In hindsight, I wish I had a few photographs from the road journey but alas when you are with strangers in an unknown land, you are wary of showcasing your dslr camera to the outside world. It was almost dark at around 430-5 pm and before reaching Imphal, we were supposed to make a stop at one of the boy’s homes in a town around 45 kms before Imphal.

I was the centre of attraction at the boy’s home. The mother and father were kind people from the Kuki tribe and conversed with me; mom gave me a cup of tea (Update : I am still in touch with them on Facebook!). Among the people who had given me the lift; their son was one of them and was supposed to go to USA to study. It was well past dark when we left from their home for Imphal. I was a little worried because I was breaking one of my rules of solo travel – by arriving in a place in the dark, and not knowing where I was going to stay.

Read : Top solo travel tips

A friend had told me about the Youth Hostel in Imphal; I could stay there for as little as 300 Rupees. Due to the terrible condition of the road; we were hardly clocking 20 kmph. As we neared Imphal, the roads widened and the surface had improved a lot too. Among all the cities that I’ve visited in the Northeast till now, Imphal has surely got the most developed and planned feel to it. Terraced fields of rice cultivation surrounded by the mountains welcomed me to Imphal; and I suddenly felt calmer.

I must say thanks to the kids again when they took me to an affordable hotel place once we had reached Imphal. Only that the hotel’s cheapest room was like 1200 Rupees. It had started raining again, and when I mentioned Youth Hostel near Khuman Lampak Stadium Road – the locals remarked that it was nearby and the kind college kids made sure they dropped me to the hostel. They also ensured that the watchman opened the hostel doors for me and that I was assured of a room to stay at the hostel. I thanked them profusely and bade goodbye.

I slept like a baby at the hostel; forgot about having dinner and directly woke up the next morning. It was nice and chilly due to the rains and the clean bed and blanket felt really comfortable. I met the super helpful manager of the hostel the next morning and he assisted me in how I should go about my day in Imphal. It was still drizzling and I was in no mood to tire myself out again.

A Brief History and Introduction to Imphal & Manipur

Manipur’s history dates back to 1500 BC (yeah, read that again!). Imphal is the capital city of Manipur, and was founded in the first century AD. Imphal is also one of the biggest cities in the Northeast.

Check : Chasing Tranquility in Majuli island

Manipur literally translates to ‘jewelled land’. The entire state of Manipur is surrounded by hilly terrain and connects Southeast Asia with the Indian Subcontinent (Manipur borders Myanmar). The varied history of Manipur suggests that it was an important halt on the ancient trade route which resulted in a rich culture with outside influences.

Manipur is the birthplace of polo (Sagol Kangjei in Meitei), and Manang Kangjeibung (in Imphal) is arguably the world’s oldest polo ground where the game polo is still played. Meitei is the local language and tribe of Manipur.

Imphal is located at an altitude of 785m and its broad avenues give this ancient city a modern and open feel. The drive along the green valleys to reach Imphal is breathtaking.

Places to Visit in Imphal – Attractions of Imphal

Kangla Fort 

Kangla Fort is the heart of Imphal, it was the ancient seat of power of the Kangleipak (Manipuri) Kingdom for an estimated 2,000 years. It is a huge complex that has been beautifully restored to its former glory. Kangla complex is situated in the heart of the city and is surrounded by a canal filled with water. I was lucky to capture a few portraits of a policeman and a Manipuri local near Kangla.

Inside the Kangla Fort Complex, one can find many old temples, colonial era cottages, and a few restored structures. The most prominent attraction inside Kangla Fort Complex are the two large ‘Kangla Sha’, the mythical dragons guarding the land. Among other fascinating sights was the newly built ‘Hijagang’ (Boat Yard), showcasing ancient Manipuri longboats decorated with dragon faces. There’s an interesting looking temple complex right at the beginning of Kangla Fort complex Compound.

Also read : Stunning Beauty of Umngot River in Dawki & Shnongpdeng

Inside Kangla, there’s also a café made from bamboo where one can spend time gazing at the clouds on the horizon and tasting the local delicacies. I explored Kangla at my own leisurely pace and took around 4 hours to see the sights. It was a holiday (due to the bandh) and the museum inside Kangla was closed. One of my favourite moments in Imphal was the sight of impeccable reflections of the sky and trees in one of the water bodies inside Kangla.

Ima Keithel Market

Ima means mother in Meitei language and keithel means market. Ima Keithel can be translated to the mother’s market. More than 4000 women have set up shops making it the largest market of its kind in Asia, and possibly the entire world! I was almost lost in the lanes of this never ending market. Products on sale range from handicrafts to fish, from exotic fruits to lotus flowers, from the elegant dresses worn by Manipuri women to the religious offerings for the temple and the famous morok chilli.

Ima Keithel was a riot of colours, and understandably so. The all women’s market is said to have been there for over 400 years, battling against all odds; the British, negotiating with the government. The ima are dressed in the traditional dress of phaneks – sarong and innaphis – shawls with sandalwood marks on their forehead.

The Ima Keithel is also called the Khwairamband Bazar or the Nupi Keithel (women’s market). It is fun to experience the all women’s market over the noise of haggling shoppers and traffic; and watching the ima laugh with their stained teeth while chewing kwai (betelnut) is an ice-breaker!

Check : Photo Story : Snapshots from Tawang Festival

One section inside the Ima Keithel is devoted to textiles – shawls and colourful fabrics including the traditional Meitei dress. Across the road, the other section of the market is located where local fish, vegetables, fruits, other perishables and provisions are sold in a constructed building. There are also a variety of handicrafts, including cane and bamboo products on display and sale. Prepare to haggle to crack a good deal.

The Ima Keithel Market was badly damaged in the 2016 earthquake but is being repaired and will shift to its original building soon.

Nupi Lal Memorial Complex

Nupi Lal is an unforgettable and important movement led by the women of Manipur (against British rule) which has carved out a niche in the history of the state. The memorial is located opposite to the alternate gate of Kangla Fort. It was the Nupi Lal Day (13th December) in Imphal when I was there and a huge celebration was organised. I went inside to see the museum and was really surprised to know the facts regarding the revolution.

Manipur State Museum

A must visit to get acquainted with the rich culture and varied past of Manipur. The Manipur State Museum is located on a parallel lane just behind Ima Keithel textile market and showcases tribal costumes, jewellery and weapons along-with displays of relics and historical documents. The museum also has a fabulous collection of portraits of Manipur’s former rulers.

Check : Life in a Secret Village : Near Great Himalayan National Park in Himachal Pradesh

Shaheed Minar

Shaheed Minar is a long and towering monument dedicated to the martyrs of Manipur who fought against the British in the Anglo – Manipur war in 1891. It is located in Bir Tikendrajit Park which is adjacent to Ima Keithel. The entry gate is sometimes closed, but there is a watchman who can always open the entrance for visitors.

Shri Govindajee Temple

Shri Govindajee Temple is an abode of calm and is associated with Lord Krishna. This is where my day started in Imphal. I’d walked outside the Youth Hostel and immediately an auto guy had asked for only 40 Rupees to take me to Shri Govindajee Temple. It was drizzling, I was already hungry and the auto guy dropped me to a local eatery just outside Shri Govindajee Temple.

It is Imphal’s eminent Vaishnavite temple and is located close to the bazaar and has two golden domes. It was a cloudy day when I reached here and the entirely white structure presented a stunning effect. Shri Govindajee temple has a large prayer hall with a calming ambience; and is highly revered by all Manipuris.

The early morning puja is a must visit ceremony with conches blowing, drumming and procession, to get a grand taste of Manipuri culture. There’s also another small temple in the nearby lawns. Lotus flowers were being sold outside the temple and were very pretty and colourful.

Read : Jageshwar Dham Temple in Uttarakhand

Manipuri Thali at Luxmi Kitchen

A big part of local explorations is eating traditional food of the region; and the traditional Meitei Thali at Luxmi Kitchen does just that. The Meitei thali (Manipuri Thali) on offer here has a minimum of 10-12 dishes with different varieties of rice. The thali comprises of a variety of fish; but the vegetarians need not despair. There are bowls of different types of lentils, kangsoi (veg stew), green peas, maroi (green leafy veggies).

The taste is deliriously good. My favourite memories from the lunch were – Gooseberry juice in a bowl, and the unbelievable purple black rice with a sweet aftertaste. And the best news is that all this comes with refills for only Rs. 150 per person! I was lucky to have a local sitting in front of me and the kind lady explained to me about the different dishes that I was eating!

Check : Wisdom of Tradition : Food in Indian Baltistan

Imphal War Cemetery

Imphal was immortalized in World War History because of The Battle of Imphal between the British and the Japanese that was a turning point in World War II. Also, Tulihal (the airstrip) that serves as the current airport also played a big role in the War.

The Imphal War Cemetery contains the graves of soldiers from many countries who fought and died for the British during World War II. It is beautifully maintained by the Commonwealth War Graves Commission (CWGC) and is housed in a tranquil garden. According to CWGC, there are 1462 graves in total in Imphal War Cemetery.

Indian Army War Cemetery

There’s a separate Indian Army War Cemetery located in a different area in Imphal which contains the graves of Indian soldiers who died in World War II. It was not easy at all to find the Indian Army War Cemetery and at first I was just roaming around in circles across the streets of Imphal.

A knowledgeable gentleman had pointed the directions to this cemetery which was located in a far corner of an area occupied by what appeared to be Bangladeshi immigrants (correct me if I’m wrong). It was a dense colony and most of them did not know about the existence of a cemetery in their colony.

The Indian Army War Cemetery is maintained well and is in a green park. It is the final resting place for about 860 Indian soldiers who fought for the British Army during World War II. Their names are inscribed on a monument inside the cemetery. All in all, it is a nice and peaceful place to go during the second half of the day.

Read : A Travel Guide to Pondicherry’s Attractions

Best way to explore Imphal 

Imphal’s streets are easy to navigate and all the above attractions lie less than 5 kilometres away from each other. Autorickshaws are easily accessible and a private tour in a taxi for the entire day in Imphal would cost around 1000 Rupees. It is recommended to start the day early as the sunsets in the northeast happen earlier than in other parts of India. Shared autos also ply throughout Imphal.

Later in the night, a group of Israelis made their way to the Youth Hostel. I was thoroughly impressed with the fact that they had found their way to this cheap hostel when travelling Indians did not even know about it. After a few more explorations the next day, I made my way to Loktak Lake near Moirang.

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