The Tiger’s Nest Monastery is said to have originally been founded in the eighth century by Buddhist saint Padmasambhava also known as Guru Rinpoche. Guru Padmasambhava is believed to have arrived at Tiger’s Nest from Tibet, on the back of a flying tiger. Here, he meditated in a cave on the cliff before he set out to convert Bhutan and nearby regions in the Himalaya to Buddhism. In 1692, a temple was built at the site known locally as the Taktsang Lakhang or more popularly Tiger’s Nest Monastery.

We reach the parking area that is quite sizeable and there is a recently put up signboard of 500 Nu (Bhutanese currency Ngultrum equivalent to INR) entry fee to be paid by Indian Nationals. Since this trip was a part of a package with the family; there was a guide accompanying us for the hike and he remarked that the trek distance is about 10-11 kms (round trip) and that we should easily be back by evening. One can rent hiking sticks from the entrance point for 50 Nu. Official trek timings for the Tiger’s Nest Monastery are from 8 am to 5 pm (timings differ in the winters). My mom and dad opted to stay back in the parking lot. We started our hike and there was also a newly married Indian couple in our group who were unsure whether they would be able to hike up as the lady had come in her leather chappals. We just gave them the moral support as they seemed reasonably fit and urged them to keep walking and that they will surely make it to the Tiger’s Nest Monastery.

We started the hike at around eight in the morning, while the numerous souvenir-selling stalls were being set up in the designated area close to the car park. The trail to the Tiger’s Nest Monastery is the most visited trail in Bhutan and is quite well marked (there is no possibility of losing your way). I spotted school groups, college kids, youngsters, lamas and foreign tourists numerous times on the hike. The trail begins with a stiff uphill ascent, and is a steady climb all the way to the Tiger’s Nest with a few slushy patches because of the rain. The air felt nippy in the morning, then progressed to humid as the sun made its way through the clouds and then turned properly cold as we gained altitude while reaching the monastery. The hike was pleasant as most of it goes through the forest and there is rarely a sunny stretch on the entire trail. There are sweeping views of the valley below and since the monsoon was in full swing, the greenery is eye-catching.

At the start of the trail; along the way, we encounter numerous shrines that have a rotating mane prayer wheel run by a flowing waterfall. After trekking for an hour or so, we reach a sort of flat ground with rows of prayer flags strung across trees. Along the trail, there are benches to sit / numerous places to rest for pilgrims – especially on the uphill climbs. We can hear the sounds of numerous streams and waterfalls even before the halfway point of the trek, that is the Taktsang Cafeteria. It is a well equipped cafeteria with a nice indoor space to sit and eat for cold and rainy days, while the outdoor space has a stunning view of the Tiger’s Nest Monastery while the clouds continue playing games.

The Taktsang cafeteria is immensely crowded with tour groups and I am able to get hold of a chair and simply gaze at the surreal sight in front of me! We opt to not eat / drink anything and to just stop there for a quick breather. I have a quick glance at the menu and notice that everything is quite overpriced but I guess thats ok since the supplies have to be carried on mules/foot. There is a small souvenir shop as well and I wonder that the café would indeed be a good place to sit and relax on the way back – if one is hungry, or if it rains! It is a nice 5-10 minute break for us and everyone catches their breath back. The newly-married couple is doing well and have grown in confidence now that they know that they have reached the halfway point of the trek within reasonable time. We get back on the trail and are pleased to enter a dense shaded area since the sun is out after battling with the clouds and the humidity is high.

As soon as we make a small ascent, a nice breeze blows and makes the hike enjoyable once again. I spot a number of mules tethered near the Taktsang cafeteria and realise that mules can be hired by visitors from the parking lot to the halfway point of Taktsang Cafeteria for about 600-800 Nu. The trail is a continuous gentle climb from now on and after 30 minutes or so, we are on a platform with level views of the Tiger’s Nest Monastery. Clouds have come floating around and I spot a raised platform nearby specifically meant for sitting. There’s a mane prayer wheel inside a small shrine where I chat up with a few lamas.

Just after that, there are a number of stairs heading towards a shrine set in a cave to the left. We have apparently reached one of the caves where Padmasambhava meditated; that are spread around the temple complex. The sounds of a roaring waterfall nearby feel like music to the ears in a serene environment. We are on a bridge and have nearly reached the main Tiger’s Nest Monastery. I am a bit disappointed to know at the entrance that cameras are not allowed inside! There’s a locker service (free of charge) where visitor’s bags, mobile phones, cameras and other belongings are to be compulsorily kept. We keep our stuff and notice that tea and snacks are being served to a tour group (free of charge, again) but since we don’t feel like eating anything, we opt to just enter the monastery since the crowd was increasing.

Inside the monastery, it is a complex of caves and dimly-lit shrines connected by stone steps and rickety bridges. The meditation cave is open only once a year from 6am-6pm on a chosen date based on the lunar calendar.

The guide explained the different parts of the monastery and the unique features that made it different than say monasteries in Ladakh or Spiti or Lahaul or Zanskar but it was too much information too fast and the fact that there wasn’t much time allowed since the different parts would get crowded with tourists. I was unable to click any photographs and can’t even rely on memory to rescue me! After trying to spend a few peaceful moments inside the Tiger’s Nest Monastery, we started on our hike back. It was pretty uneventful and was relatively faster and much easier than the way up (obviously!).

We hardly took an hour and a half to get back to the parking lot. On the drive back to Paro, I made a mental note to stay near the base of the Tiger’s Nest Monastery next time for its pretty location close to the river.

Good to Know

There’s a compulsory 500 Nu entry fee to be paid by Indian Nationals. Round trip distance from the parking spot to the Tiger’s Nest Monastery is about 10-11 km and the entire day hike should take about 6-7 hours. Hiking sticks are available for rent from the entrance point for 50 Nu. Trek timings for the Tiger’s Nest Monastery are from 8 am to 5 pm. Halfway Taktsang Cafeteria. It is recommended to carry a jackets as the weather can change in an instant and it is almost always cold at over 3000m altitude.

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Next morning, after a short drive through Lobesa we had reached a place called Sopsokha village. From here, it was a short walk through terraced rice fields and a path that led to the Buddhist Shrine. Considering our very own folklores in India, I knew what a fertility temple meant. Couples desirous of having a baby would seek their blessings at a place like this. In that sense, after having seen other Dzongs in Thimphu and Punakha, I wasn’t exactly excited to see the temple but the hike seemed nice and I started wandering through the narrow lanes of Sopsokha.

Read : Bhutan : Experiences & Tips

What immediately captured my attention was murals and graffiti on the walls with giant phalluses. Kids were playing and life seemed to go on in the most normal manner possible. For a moment it felt awkward, but because the incidence of the murals was on almost every wall it became fun to look at. There were doors with phalluses on both sides and then there were shops with wooden imitations of the male sexual organ.

Check : Srinagar – Leh Highway, in Pictures

Note : This post contains graphic drawings of the male phallus/penis. Do not scroll down if you are uncomfortable with such images.

A Brief History of Chimi Lhakhang Temple : 

Lama Drukpa Kunley (1455 – 1570) was an enlightened Buddhist master who practised the Vajrayana form of Buddhism. He followed a non conventional and outrageous style of teaching. Drukpa Kunley roamed around the countryside and indulged in song and dance, alcohol and women and basically seemed like a very cool Lama! In short, he meant to go beyond the norms and conventions set by the society.

Read : Wanderings in Lahaul : Kardang Monastery

Among Lama Drukpa Kunley’s most important achievements is taming the fierce demon of Dochu La pass. He imprisoned her and buried her in the main chorten where Chimi Lhakhang was built in the year 1499. Drukpa Kuenley’s cousin brother Ngawang constructed this monastery.

Lama Drukpa Kunley’s phallus is also known as the ‘flaming thunderbolt’ and is essentially worshipped here. Lamas inside the monastery distribute sacred threads among the pilgrims as a part of the offering.

Also read : Trekking from Purne to Phugtal Monastery, in Pictures

Continuing the story in pictures…

The walk to Chimi Lhakhang passes through a path lined with trees after the mid-way point. It comes as a welcome respite from Punakha’s warm weather. Highly recommend carrying a bottle of water for the walk. It is best to do the hike after breakfast, so that one may complete the sightseeing in around 2-3 hours.

There are a few eateries and shops where one can eat local Bhutanese dishes, right at the start of the trail.

I literally skipped and ran on my way back to the place where our vehicle was parked. Also because I figured it may be a tad uncomfortable for my co-travellers when I was documenting these walls with phalluses. I mostly clicked all these pictures on my way back.

The drive from Thimphu to Punakha across Dochu La pass was pretty and became even better with the lush greenery in the rain.

This sure turned out to be a big surprise… Know of any quirky things around the world?Would love to check in the comments below.

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When one travels from Phuntsholing (border town between India and Bhutan where up to 5 kms is a free area and can be travelled without a permit) to Thimphu (the capital city), the indescribable feeling of having arrived in a happy mountain town nestled amidst lush greenery cannot be avoided. Thimphu allows one to experience the beauty and quietude of being in the mountains, while the luxuries of a modern day metropolis are at an arm’s length. For us lucky souls, we were unknowingly travelling during the King’s birthday, so we got to see the grandeur by which the King Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck’s birthday is celebrated- For the Bhutanese, it is no less than Diwali celebrations back home. 

Also check : Himalayan boy goes to the islands of Thailand

The natural beauty of Bhutan plus Buddhist tradition of respect and reverence and its amazing festivals are enough reasons to visit this land of Lhakhangs (monasteries) and Dzongs (fortresses), but thats not all. My top picks for inspiring all of you to travel to Bhutan :

1. Food : While one can easily get Indian food at almost all the restaurants, local Bhutanese cuisine is a must try. Staple diet is red rice (which is not red in colour) and cheese and chillies as the main dish (Ema Datshi as they call it in Bhutanese). For cheese lovers out there, most of the curries in Bhutan comprise of cheese gravy. Their fondness for cheese is evident from the diverse variety of cheese available in the local shops.

2. Vibrance of the Monasteries : especially the ones located in/close to the main cities. We visited the one in Thimphu during morning prayers and were left mesmerised by the spiritual vibrations. With the monks reciting traditional texts, locals performing prostrations to offer their prayers and gratitude, bells ringing – one could feel the holiness in the air.

Check : Speechless in Sarnath : A Day Trip

3. A well connected Public Transport System : Buses ply from Thimphu to all parts of the country (from Paro as well, but the frequency is comparatively less). Nobody is allowed to stand in the buses and the occupancy is as per the number of seats. We felt a stark difference as the bus we had taken from Siliguri to Jaigaon- the Indian side of the border had people sitting on the roof of the bus as well. Well, these are some of the advantages of having less population. Also, the music which the bus drivers played would vary from Bhutani to English as well as Hindi songs. All our bus drivers were kind to us and played as many Hindi songs as they had in their collection. They are very fond of the dhinchak item numbers as well as the soft classics.

4. Everybody loves the King and prays for his good health. Right from small school children to elderly people. Well, such a country is ought to be happy. Visit Bhutan to see their love for the king; which most of us have read about our kings only in storybooks.

5. People abide by strict rules and regulations on the road. Everybody uses the zebra crossing to cross the road. Half of the road has parking spaces and all cabs stop in the parking space for dropping as well as picking up the passengers. I remember this very well as we got scolded quite a few times for not taking the zebra crossing on our first day in the city – well, we can’t help but break the rules. :p

6. Quirky custom : Giant protective penises are painted and kept outside the entrance of many houses. One can buy the same from the various handicraft shops in the main market. We were shell shocked to see painted penis in various shapes and sizes while roaming around the city. Some of these were even clothed in traditional Bhutanese attire. We were whispering among ourselves when we saw these and got the shock of our lives when we got to know of these as good luck signs. 

7. Natural Beauty : The mountain paths are resplendent with colourful rhododendrons, and birds. We came across the national animal Takin on our trek to the ‘Bhutan Broadcast Service Tower’ (2685m), which, along-with the Buddha Point, offers the best views of the Thimphu and Paro Valley. The views are particularly spectacular in the evening when one can see the twinkling lights of Thimphu city from up there.

Read : McLeodganj – Best Cafés and Restaurants in the Himalayas?

8. People are quite focused on fitness which is very well promoted by the ruling King. A number of open gyms with well functioning equipments have been set up at various picturesque locations across the country. We managed to use a few during our morning walks.

9. Colourful Dzongs (fortresses) and Lhakhangs (monasteries) : While I am one of those travellers who prefers clicking limited pictures, the architecture and vibrance of the fortresses and monasteries made me a wannabe photographer! Every door and window stands out and is just pretty beyond description.

10. Numerous bars, pubs and karaoke joints where one can enjoy couple of glasses of local wine, beer or whiskey (I loved all three) after a tiring day of walking and hiking across the lovely trails. I was really surprised to see a lot of couples kissing openly. PDA in Bhutan is in vogue! Alcohol is very cheap and readily available at numerous wine shops, departmental stores as well as regular restaurants in and around the cities. Most of these outlets are managed by women.

Read : Finding Paradise in Uttarakhand 

11. Archery : Bhutan’s national sport of archery is practised across the country and is surely entertaining to watch. We saw a practise session near the bus stand. There are multiple tournaments which are organised – a great way to blend in with the locals and cheer vociferously.

Falling in love with Bhutan is just so easy. My simple tips on the best ways to see Bhutan :

1. Go on a mountain walk : With more than 70 percent of the land in Bhutan under forest cover, you are never too far from a splendid stroll. Thimphu valley provides many opportunities for the same. There are good walks not too far from the capital, to beautiful monasteries with excellent views down the valley. And just west of Thimphu, Motithang Takin Preserve is your best bet for spotting Bhutan’s national animal, the Takin – which is a mix of a goat and a cow. 

2. Walk / hitch a ride (a cake walk) rather than talking a cab. Bhutan is a paradise for those who love to walk. I clocked an average distance of walking 10 kms/day during my stay.

Also check : Hitchhiking in a truck : Stories from Nakee La

3. Travel in a group of 3-4 as Bhutan is yet to develop as a backpacking destination (majorly due to the hotel prices). We managed to complete our 7 day trip in 7000 Rs (1000 Rs per day); as we were a group of 4 which allowed us to split costs. Student discount at various hotels was also availed.

4. Travel in off-season, (December to February) to avoid the tourist rush. Bhutan has seasonal tariffs, so along-with fewer tourists, there are good savings to be made by travelling outside the high season. Tourists start pouring from March onwards as it is assumed that Bhutan is quite cold till Feb. The days are warm and sunny and given that the hotel rooms are quite cozy, one can manage the cold nights.

5. Go to the local farmer’s weekend market which is set up every weekend (Friday, Saturday, Sunday) at the Centenary Farmer’s Market in Thimpu. On offer is a glimpse of the local produce, fruits, vegetables, handicrafts and for chatting with the farmers who come from all over Bhutan with their local produce. The food section is an olfactory overload with dried fish competing with soft cheese, betel nut and dried chilli.

Lost and found in Munsyari

6. Trek to the Taktsang Monastery (Tiger’s Nest Monastery) and don’t forget to visit the real cave nestled inside the Lhakhang. The steep walk to the monastery is well worthwhile, providing tantalising glimpses of the monastery, views of the Paro valley and splashes of red coloured rhododendrons. Go with the locals to understand the relevance of each of the temples housed inside the Lhakhang. We went with a group of school students from Thimphu and were lucky to pray as per the Buddhist customs and traditions.

7. While driving from Paro to Thimphu, stop at the Tamchhog Lhakhang en route and pass the traditional iron bridge.

A visit to Bhutan is a must if one wants to experience the life and times of a beautiful Himalayan kingdom with a unique outlook on progress where gross national happiness outshines the gross national product. The fact that Bhutanese are the happiest souls is evident from the fact that Bhutan has only 2 psychiatrists (As said by locals). 

Combine a visit to Bhutan with Sikkim.

I am doing this post here because I tried to follow travelshoebum’s style of travelling this time, which included hitchhiking and use of local transport rather than taking cabs. I also consulted the locals in planning the trip, instead of sticking to a pre-planned itinerary. Me and my travel partners were thrilled by the experiences we had because of the same. So this is a ‘ thank you’ post to Shubham. Maybe I can do another one sharing a detailed itinerary for the places I visited if he allows me to spam his blog further.

Note : This is a guest post written by Pooja and it has well and truly made me plan a trip to Bhutan as soon as I can!

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