Marshrutka / Minibus from Tbilisi to Mtskheta and back

The distance between Tbilisi and Mtskheta is hardly 20-25 kms and takes less than an hour even with Tbilisi’s busy traffic. There are no buses that ply between Tbilisi and Mtskheta and even though the official Georgian train website shows that passenger trains stop in Mtskheta, be advised that Mtskheta railway station is quite far (about 2 kms) from the town itself and train schedules are sporadic making it an unwise choice to try and visit Mtskheta by train from Tbilisi. Mtskheta lies in the historical Mtskheta-Mtianeti region.

Regular marshrutkas (minibuses) ply between Didube to Mtskheta and are the easiest way to reach Mtskheta from Tbilisi. These marshrutkas are usually 16-20 seater Mercedes Sprinter vehicles and run every 30 odd minutes starting from 7 am from Didube station while the last marshrutka for Mtskheta departs from Didube at 8 pm (or sometimes even later in the summer). We took less than 30 minutes to cover the 18 km distance from Didube to Mtskheta. We were not sure if the driver would take us into town so we decided to get down as soon as we saw the walk-only pedestrian street! Later, we came to know that the last stop in Mtskheta is the parking spot at the end of the town quite close to Old Mtskheta.

Where exactly to take the marshrutka at Didube?

We had booked a small family run hotel quite close to Samgori / Isani metro station for two nights as our flight landed in Tbilisi at the uncomfortable hour after midnight. From Isani metro station, it was quite easy to figure the Tbilisi metro and reach Didube station where a few taxi drivers offered us a ‘cheap’ ride to Mtskheta for 20 Georgian Lari (GEL). We politely declined their (expensive) offer and promptly found the Mtskheta marshrutka ticket counter. After confirming the 2 GEL per person one way ticket price with locals who were also waiting for the marshrutka for Mtskheta, we paid and got our paper tickets. It is important to remember that the last marshrutka from Mtskheta to Tbilisi (Didube) runs at around 8-830 pm and is likely to be full so it is best to time your return to Tbilisi by daylight to avoid any unforeseen adventure!

In principle, you can hire a taxi for Mtskheta anywhere in Tbilisi or even use a bolt or maxim taxi (internet app-based taxis) but the prices are likely to be standard in Didube. If you are a group of four, then your best bet is to get early to Didube and negotiate a good price with a taxi driver to take you to Mtskheta and also include the other sights of interest like the Shio-Mgvime monastery and Zedazeni monastery.

Introduction to Mtskheta

Mtskheta is the former capital of Georgia and an ancient city that was established between the 1st and 5th Century BC. It is located at a enviable point of the confluence of Mtkvari (Kura river) and Aragvi rivers and jaw-dropping views of the confluence can be seen from Jvari Monastery. Mtskheta has a number of monuments included in the UNESCO World Heritage, that was bestowed in the year 1994. The old Mtskheta town around the centrally located Svetitskhoveli cathedral is a bucolic sight with cobblestone streets and green mountains in the backdrop. Mtskheta’s importance of being steeped in Georgian culture is evident in the fact that it is a favourite place for Georgians to get married and for pre-wedding photoshoots.

This travel guide to Mtskheta includes all that you need to know about visiting Mtskheta on a day trip from Tbilisi. It includes details on – how to reach Mtskheta and transport options from Tbilisi, must visit attractions in Mtskheta, time taken for exploring, food, wine tasting, shopping, and timing your return back to Tbilisi.

History of Mtskheta

Mtskheta is one of Georgia’s oldest towns and was the capital of the Kingdom of Kartli in East Georgia from the 3rd Century BC till the 6th Century AD when the capital was shifted to Tbilisi after the discovery of the sulphur springs in Abanotubani. Mtskheta gained importance as it lies at a strategic location; at the intersection of trade routes from Byzantium, Syria, Roman Empire, Silk Road that resulted in a rich commercial exchange with the mingling of different cultures. Mtskheta remains the spiritual and religious centre of Georgia since Mtskheta is where Christianity was first embraced as Georgia’s official religion in the year 337 AD.

Accorded the UNESCO World Heritage Site status, the Historical Monuments of Mtskheta include Jvari Monastery, Svetitskhoveli Cathedral and Samtavro’s Convent. These three medieval religious establishments are home to precious relics of Christianity; painted frescoes and burial sites with graves of monarchs and royalty from the times when Georgia was a Kingdom. History lovers are in for a treat as the region around Mtskheta is rich in Old Georgian architecture and is dotted with churches, caves, archaeological sites, ancient chapels, palaces and forts.

Svetitskhoveli Cathedral

Originally built in the 4th-5th Century AD, Svetitskhoveli Cathedral is a stunning sight and is likely to be your lasting memory of Mtskheta. The present structure dates to the 11th Century AD and the Orthodox cathedral complex exudes a calm and spiritual vibe with the greenery amidst the mountain view. It is a perfect example of the medieval architecture of the Caucasus. As you enter the spacious cathedral complex from the street, you can see a number of women selling fresh flowers. It was a weekday when we visited and found it quite amusing to come across a number of weddings and see newlyweds getting clicked in the green lawns with the cathedral. I can only imagine the scene of wedding parties on weekends! Although it can get pretty crowded inside Svetitskhoveli cathedral, take your time to gaze at the frescoes and carvings.

A number of Georgia’s most important monarchs are buried at Svetitskhoveli Cathedral, including King Vakhtang Gorgasali, the founder of Tbilisi. Qvevri pots (for winemaking) can be seen scattered in the monastery complex and also don’t miss the beautiful bell tower built in a different corner of the entrance. Candles and souvenirs can be bought at the monastery shop located on the right after entering. There are scarfs and skirts available at the entrance if you are inappropriately dressed for entering the church.

Jvari Monastery

Also called the Holy Cross Monastery of Jvari; Jvari Monastery is one of the oldest monasteries in Georgia (by some accounts, the holy wooden cross was erected here in the 5th Century). According to legend – in the early 4th century, St. Nino, a female Christian preacher erected a large wooden cross on this site where Jvari Monastery was built later. The distance between Mtskheta and Jvari Monastery is 12 kms and round-trip taxis are easily available in Mtskheta for about 20 GEL. The 6th Century church in Jvari Monastery is located on top of a mountain and is the most sacred and revered church in entire Georgia. The chief pull of Jvari Monastery is the bird’s eye view of entire Mtskheta old town overlooking the confluence of the Aragvi and Mtkvari rivers.

While the exterior of Jvari Monastery is quite rustic and simple; the symmetric building is built in what can be called old Georgian architecture. It is perched on a hilltop and hiking to Jvari Monastery is possible via a trail from the park in Mtskheta; but not recommended unless you have an entire day out. If you have organised a taxi from Tbilisi, it may be a good idea to visit Jvari Monastery in the end so that you can enjoy the incredible view of Mtskheta town with Svetitskhoveli Cathedral in the centre during sunset time! The sacred St. Nino’s spring locally revered to be a healing water source is a 15 minute hike from Jvari monastery.

Samtavro’s Convent

We had not planned our day in Mtskheta and wandered with an explorer’s air to find ourselves right in front of the Samtavro’s Convent. Samtavro’s Convent is a pleasant ten minute walk from main Mtskheta town. The monastery complex is set among gardens and has a relaxed, open vibe since it is relatively less crowded than the Svetitskhoveli Cathedral. The church at Samtavro’s Convent was originally established in the 4th century and has been restored a number of times. The present day building of the main church was built in the early 11th century. Samtavro’s convent houses the grave of King Mirian III – the king of Iberia (Kartli kingdom) who established Christianity as the official religion in Georgia.

We drank and filled our water bottle from the spring water where the locals were also quenching their thirst. There was also a small chapel – St. Nino Chapel (Tsminda Nino) which is an active chapel with frescoes and a priest inside. While walking around the monastery grounds, take notice of the bell tower as well. On the other side of the entrance is the church shop where visitors can buy candles and souvenirs. While going back, we noticed old men and women asking for alms from visitors while some others were selling some dried herbs(?)

Samtavro Necropolis

The ancient cemetery of Mtskheta; Samtavro Necropolis is located just 500m away or a 5 minute walk from Samtavro’s Convent and is the most peaceful stroll in Mtskheta. This burial ground has been in use since the 3rd Century BC and is steeped in history. It also served as the burial place for the royal family. The Samtavro Necropolis or mausoleum is a lesser visited monument and can be called an offbeat attraction in Mtskheta.

Antioch Church

Antioch Church is a 4th-5th Century church built on the banks of the Aragvi river just before its confluence with Kura river. To reach here, take a walk in the residential by-lanes in Mtskheta old town and turn right for the riverside. There are hardly any visitors to be seen at the relatively austere-sized Antioch Church (also called St. Stephen’s Church). The church complex is pleasing with the greenery especially after seeing the crowds on the tourist trail in Mtskheta. Enjoy the sweeping view of Jvari Monastery and savour the blissful breeze of the river. Do not miss the colourful frescoes in the interior of Antioch Church. Due to lesser popularity of this attraction, I can denote the Antioch Church to be an offbeat place to visit in Mtskheta.

Shio-Mgvime Monastery

The 6th Century Shio-Mgvime monastery is set into a rugged hillside and lies at a distance of 12 kms from Mtskheta. Caves used by monks for meditation can be seen all over the cliff face of the hillside. There is no marshrutka or shared transport to visit the Shio-Mgvime monastery from Mtskheta or Tbilisi, hence it is best to discuss and finalise a taxi with other tourists for visiting Jvari Monastery and Shio-Mgvime to make it economical. Take some time to roam around the scenic monastery complex (accommodating about 2000 monks at one time) to see beautiful gardens housing two churches. The interiors of the bigger church have perhaps the most well preserved frescoes in Mtskheta. The smaller church is called the Shio Cemetery Church; in honour of the monk Shio who founded this site. The church shop sells excellent quality of honey and beeswax candles made on site!

Exploring Mtskheta on Foot : Heritage Walk in Mtskheta

Rather than making a checklist, the joy of travel lies in the unplanned and serendipitous encounters. The quiet by-lanes of this historical old town of Mtskheta are apt to check the rich architectural style of Georgian houses with the courtyards shaded with grape vines, elaborately carved wooden balconies and the greenery. We were enamoured with the heritage houses sporting a faint red of autumn in the trees, vintage cars, art nouveau signboards and decided that Mtskheta is worth staying for a couple of nights (at least) if we come to Georgia again.

Among other places to see in Mtskheta; Bebri Tsikhe (abandoned fortress on a hillock) easily reached by a 20-30 minute walk from Mtskheta, Zedazeni Monastery, the colourful mosaic painting outside the Mtskheta Archaeological Museum (not open); St. Barbara Church, in a different direction – Armaziskhevi Archaeological Site, Armazi Tsikhe (fortress), Armazi Monastery and a few other churches around Mtskheta.

Souvenir Shopping in Mtskheta

There are pedestrian streets (ocassionally used by cars) around Svetitskhoveli Cathedral square where vendors set up market stalls and souvenir shops. Tourists can purchase churchkela, carpets, quirky fridge magnets, spices, fresh juice, wine ice-cream in summer and in winter, mulled wine. Also on offer are wine, chacha (grape liquor), souvenirs like scarfs, Georgian caps and hats, handmade dolls, ceramics and paintings. Among unique souvenirs on sale are kantsi – traditional Georgian drinking vessel (now mass-produced), tklapi (fruit snack), and hand-painted fridge magnets.

This market in Mtskheta is a very touristy area so it is good to be aware that prices quoted can often be very high. It may be a good idea to bargain subtly and see if the seller offers a better price. After having gone around the other parts of Georgia over a good 16 days, we realised some souvenir sellers were offering really good deals like 1+1 on fridge magnets for 2 GEL. Although I don’t recommend buying mass produced souvenirs; but I can understand if someone wants to buy, then the market in Mtskheta may turn out to be a good choice. We found the prices in Tbilisi for the same stuff are much higher.

Wine Tasting in Mtskheta

Winery Khareba located right on the opposite side of the entrance of Svetitskhoveli Cathedral. The wine tasting is free as long as you buy a bottle of wine. Prices are fixed (unlike some other places in Mtskheta) at Winery Khareba and the staff is quite helpful in suggesting which wine to buy.

Handy Tips :

Since Mtskheta is primarily a religious destination for locals, dress and behave appropriately.

Carry a water bottle. Time your visit to the washroom/toilets when you go to a restaurant. Try to visit Mtskheta on a Sunday morning while mass is being held, and savour the authentic cultural experience of polyphonic singing very unique to Georgia.

Festivals in Mtskheta

14th October Svetitskhovloba Festival.

How to Pronounce Mtskheta?

Georgian spellings and pronunciations can be mind jangling and none more so than ‘Mtskheta’. This tongue twister is actually pretty easy to pronounce. The locals seem to ignore the first two letters ‘Mt’ and rapidly say ‘skheta’ with a stress on the h. For us, it took a while getting used to since it was our first day in the country. Thankfully, we weren’t caught on the wrong foot and learnt to pronounce Mtskheta like the Georgians do before committing a faux pas!

How to go from Tbilisi to Mtskheta?

Metro to Didube station. After reaching Didube station, you have to go through a market to get to the other side to reach the exact point for the Mtskheta marshrutka / minibus and the ticket window. Buy the tickets for 2 Lari per person. Shared taxis also ply about 5 GEL per person.

From Mtskheta to Tbilisi : Marshrutka stop in Mtskheta to get back to Didube is on the main road while coming back from Samtavro’s Convent.

Staying in Mtskheta

Mtskheta has an old world charm and warrants much more than just a day visit. We have already decided we will spend a couple of nights in one of the charming homestays of Mtskheta whenever we return to Georgia.

Where to eat in Mtskheta?

There is a row of restaurants in front of the Svetitskhoveli Cathedral. We are a khachapuri and enjoyed fresh tap beer at one of those. Ornament Express was our choice but they had run out of food due to a party that day! Other recommended restaurants and cafés in Mtskheta are – Restaurant Check-in Garden, Café Tatin, Riverside Baginati, Tsiskvili. Favourite eateries of Tbilisi locals are on the way to Mtskheta after the diversion from the main road. I spotted a big crowd from the marshrutka both while coming and going. A few locals also got down on the way and while coming back our marshrutka was full but they took passengers for standing space.

Best time to Visit Mtskheta?

Mtskheta is accessible throughout the year. Summers are warm while a visit in peak winter might be a chance to see Mtskheta in snow!

Think I missed something in this Mtskheta Guide? Suggestions are welcome.

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Arriving at Tashkent Airport

Currency exchange (from USD to Uzbek Som) and sim card work is done in no time, and we sit trying to rest at the tiny airport. The idea is to either take a yandex taxi or to walk to the Tashkent Central Train Station when it is daylight. At about 4 am, a random conversation with one of the airport officials results in us heading to the waiting lounge area just outside the confines of the Tashkent airport. It is a heated area with ample seating space and a coffee shop. It is brimming with local Uzbekis holding massive flower bouquets who have come to welcome back friends and relatives.

The waiting area is an interesting place for people watching. The coffee counter has a vibrant look, and the cappuccino turns out excellent for about 23000 UZS (About USD $2). Even though it is still dark, we are bored of sitting in the waiting area and decide to step out at 6 am. We are greeted by Tashkent’s taxi guys and a frigid breeze. I am thankful to have kept a jacket at the last minute before boarding the flight in Delhi. After paying 10000 UZS (for the two of us) for using a public toilet, we feel regretful of having left the free area of the airport earlier than planned.

Morning Stroll to Stantsiya Central Tashkent Main Station

The dawn colours on the horizon invite us to start the 5 km walk to the train station and we oblige. Google maps suggests a walking route through a risky-looking train crossing; we take a longer way that crosses an early morning market and goes through residential areas. There’s a security check before entering the train station and our hungry tummies are massively delighted at seeing a small crowd at the cute café ‘Safia’ at the station. I join the queue and choose a croissant that seems to be a local favourite – for (only 9500 Uzbek soum) USD 0.75.

We reach the station earlier than planned because in popular tourist season entry to the train stations across Uzbekistan sometimes takes over 1 hour as the passports and tickets are checked; and luggage has to go through a security check.

It is so delicious that we are delighted with the prospect of returning to Safia since the Central Station in Tashkent is the main train station for our journeys in Uzbekistan. We take a coffee from one of the other cafes before showing the ticket to the security who ask us to sit in the heated waiting area. The chill in the air seems to be a direct effect of the western disturbance over the Himalayan region. There is a constant humdrum of travellers coming to catch the Afrosiyob train as is to be expected at the biggest train station in the capital of a country.

The glimmer of morning sunshine has been taken over by clouds and we take this as our cue to change into warmer clothes in the washrooms at the train station. At about 8 am, we head to the platform where the Sharq train to Samarkand and Bukhara is already stationed. It is quite cold in the open air, and we are joyful and relieved upon entering the cosy heated train.

Sharq Train from Tashkent to Samarkand

It is a chair car train with luxurious seating, charging points and ample space to store the luggage. The Uzbekistan Railways website allows you to choose the seats and ours came with a table! There is a boiling water container (samovar) at the entry of the coach and a round of lavender tea is duly made. No sooner do we sit down to enjoy the delicate taste and aroma of the flower tea; it begins to snow! We can barely believe our eyes. At first. the snow comes down gently. Then, the intensity increases, and the white flurries start coming down in droves.

Cold weather seems to be following us all along and we are beyond thrilled to see snow falling in the middle of March when it is supposed to be spring in Uzbekistan and time for the plum, peach, apple, apricot and other blossoms to bloom. The train does not start on time and the fellow passengers don’t seem to be bothered. After all, it is warm and cozy in the train coach! When it finally starts, we are treated to a visual delight of a white landscape in the outskirts of Tashkent.

Train stations (Vokzal) by the name of Jizzakh and Gulistan come, and I rush to the window to click photographs – of Christmas-like scenes and the name Gulistan. Gul is the Uzbek word for flowers – similar to India. It is to be just the start of cultural similarities between Uzbekistan and India. The Sharq train is supposed to reach Samarkand at 1230 pm but since it is delayed, we only pull into Samarkand Vokzal at 130 pm. The snowstorm continues and we freeze after getting out of the platform and making our way to the exit.

Arriving in Samarkand and our first Yandex Taxi

We want to get to a street before calling a Yandex taxi and manage to make a booking. The place where we stand outside the Samarkand train station is a little confusing since it is on an intersection of many streets, and we receive a phone call from the taxi guy. I am sure language troubles will render communication useless, so I thrust the phone with a request in the hands of a local family who are eager to help. We converse in perfect English and thank them profusely once the yandex taxi arrives! It is with a relieved feeling that we sit in the heated taxi, still comprehending the sudden snowfall and chilly weather in Uzbekistan in spring.

We reach our pre-booked accommodation in hardly 15 minutes from the Samarkand train station and are pleased with the success on booking our first yandex taxi in Uzbekistan. The family-run hotel is ready to receive us and quickly usher us into our heated room after the check-in process. It is a four bedded room and heating radiators have been installed in the bathroom and the room. There is ample space to keep our bags and since we have carried a small kettle with us, we make some Darjeeling autumn flush green tea to relax. We are extremely hungry and contemplate our next course of action even as the snowstorm rages on in Samarkand.

History and a bit about Samarkand

Samarkand, located on the edge of the Kyzylkum Desert is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities of the world. It has a recorded history that goes all the way back to the 7th Century BC. Samarkand was an important stop on the Silk Road (Silk Route) connecting Asia to Europe, and it prospered from the trade passing through the region. However, it was in the 14th Century during Amir Timur’s rule that Samarkand reached its pinnacle when it was made the capital (year 1370) of his vast empire. Timur had a great interest in architecture, culture and art. He patronized craftsmen and architects that led to the development of a unique architectural style known as Timurid architecture.

Samarkand’s decline was swift beginning from the year 1500 AD when the capital was shifted to Bukhara in early 16th Century, then numerous earthquakes played their part in the damage. Its fortunes reversed only when the Russians transformed Samarkand into a modern city, built a railway line and restored some of the heritage monuments. Samarkand was also the capital of the Uzbek Soviet Socialist Republic from 1925 to 1930 before being replaced by Tashkent. Samarkand was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in the year 2001.

Samarkand is the second biggest city in Uzbekistan and an important commercial and cultural centre. It boasts of an illustrious history; Samarkand was coveted and conquered by Alexander the Great, pillaged and destroyed by Genghis Khan, rebuilt to glory by Amir Timur.

I asked our hostess for a eatery recommendation, and with language communication issues could only understand that there is a small eatery nearby. When we go out trying to find the small eatery, there is no success, and it seems logical to walk to the street where we came from and try and find a restaurant there. Thankfully, the snowstorm has taken a breather, and we are sitting in the cozy interiors of one Shahjahon Milliy Taomlar. The food turns out to be excellent and we enjoy our first taster of Uzbek non (nan) and green tea. As soon as we step out of the restaurant, it begins snowing again and we are totally unprepared for this burst of cold air.

First sight of Registan Square

Our brains are not functioning properly, and we walk in an incomprehensible manner only to start walking back in the direction of our stay. We change the plan once we understand that a number of historical monuments of Samarkand are located quite close to where we are! It is hardly a walk of 10 odd minutes, and we are at the viewing deck of the Registan Square. White snow has covered the blooming spring flowers surrounding the Registan Square. Among the iconic places to photograph in Samarkand, Registan Square is top of the list.

The gloomy sky and the snowfall combine to make it a colourless evening and I am unable to feel the grandeur of the Registan Square of Samarkand. We choose to enter one of the art galleries nearby and I like the paintings and a particular copper water container. As expected, I am quoted a best price of some USD $1000 in the hope that I will indulge in the bargaining game, but I am just testing the waters and wise enough to know when to open my mouth!

We are hoping to explore and admire Samarkand’s dazzling mosques, azure blue-tiled madrasahs, majestic domes and minarets, bazaars withhandcrafted treasures and are really hoping the weather gods will behave and let us explore Samarkand in nice, sunny weather.

Amir Timur; Uzbekistan and India

For us, being in Uzbekistan is like going back to the history books. Amir Timur is proclaimed a national hero in Uzbekistan whereas our classroom textbooks mentioned Timur as a barbarian. His brutal massacre of Delhi in the year 1398 is the stuff of legends. Uzbekistan is also associated with the beginning of India’s Mughal history – Babur, who established the Mughal empire in undivided India is the great-great-great grandson of Amir Timur. How very interesting!

Guest House in Samarkand

We feel accomplished after the walk on this supremely chilly spring day and ultimately decide to go back to our cosy stay. It is interesting to observe local life as we walk through the non-touristy lanes. We are hoping that tomorrow the sun will be out so that we will be able to have a nice Samarkand experience, since our Afrosiyob train from Samarkand to Bukhara has already been booked for about 11 am, the day after. The hosts at the guest house are really kind and offer us green tea whenever they see us! We fill enough filter water from the dispenser and retire to our warm room for the night.

It is a nice feeling to relax while the weather is frighteningly cold outside. We also wonder why we don’t have this heating system in the cold regions of India. It would be great to have this central heating system at our home in Kullu Valley. After a hot shower, we dive into the cosy bed. It is prudent to do a bit of route mapping of Samarkand’s monuments and our supposed plan of action for tomorrow. The weather forecast is for an absolutely clear day and relishing the prospect of sunshine, we call it a night and are fast asleep by 8 pm!

First Breakfast in Uzbekistan – Yummy

It is a deep sleep and we wake up super fresh. We decide to take the day as it comes rather than trying to rush early. I open the door and am thankful to see blue skies and a sliver of sunshine across the sky. The clock shows 730 am and we are having a slow morning to get us ready for a proper exploration of Samarkand. The hostess has laid out a plethora of delicacies and we are really looking forward to a nice breakfast to set us up for a long day of walking and sights. We are down in the heated family room at 8 am and are excited to taste the delicious local cheese, fresh cucumbers and tomatoes, home-made pastry, pancakes, local honey, dry fruits, jams and so many other options. We wash down the yummy eats with repeated helpings of green tea, thank the family for the excellent breakfast and set out to explore Samarkand.

First up; we had spotted a dazzling blue dome on our way back last evening and upon researching realise it is a famous landmark. Unknowingly, it is our first glimpse of Samarkand’s spectacular blue tilework in the mellow evening light.

Attractions of Samarkand

Gur e Amir or Amir Timur Mausoleum

Rather than trusting our limited geography of Samarkand based on our previous day’s wanderings, we choose to use google maps to walk to the Gur e Amir Mausoleum. We go round and round in circles and have to finally ask some locals and are guided to the right place. The sun is out and Samarkand feels much better with blue skies. The blue dome comes closer and we are right in front of the Amir Timur Mausoleum. The richly carved entrance painted in (guess what!) deep shade of blue is dazzling and we make a mental note to return here in the evening when the sun will light it up.

Gur-e-Amir or Amir Timur Mausoleum is the final resting place of Amir Timur. It is set in beautiful green surroundings and feels like a different part of Samarkand since it is away from the other monuments. This building was originally built to be an Islamic school but a big stroke of luck made . I spot a ‘kassa’ ticket office sign to my left. I check the entry ticket price and it is almost USD $4 per person (UZS 50000). We decide to defer the purchasing of the ticket and walk around the permitted free area with the security guards in tow.

Amir Timur was supposed to be buried at Shakhrisabz (where he was born in 1336 AD) but he unexpectedly died of pneumonia while on war in China. Since snow had closed the passes to Shakhrisabz, he was buried in Samarkand instead. The Gur e Amir or Amir Timur Mausoleum also houses the graves of Timur’s two sons and two grandsons (including Ulugh Beg). We figure that evening is the best time to be here as the blue tiles of the mausoleum are lit in a soft orange hue with the setting sun. Then, as darkness sets in, the lights take effect making the Amir Timur Mausoleum look even more ethereal. We ambled here in the night again and were spellbound by the effect!

It is surreal to see the snow still clinging on the branches of trees (from yesterday’s snowstorm) and we walk around the narrow lanes around the blue domed mausoleum. The sunshine on the other side of Gur e Amir complex feels better and our surprise moment comes when we are on the opposite side of the monument and the door is open. I am happy to click a few pictures from my dslr camera and a bit surprised to see a handicraft shop in the frame. There are two local ladies and a caretaker from the nearby Ak-Saray Mosque soaking in the sunshine. We have limited conversations in broken english and the caretaker is interested in giving us a tour for the Ak-Saray Mosque’s ceiling for 10000 Uzbek soums each.

Aksaray Mausoleum

Located very close to the opposite side of the Amir Timur Mausoleum, we only come to know of its existence because of the gatekeeper who was chatting with the two ladies. Aksaray Mausoleum is an unassuming structure from the outside but apparently the painted ceiling inside is a must see. Amir Timur’s grandsons are buried at the Aksaray Mausoleum. The gatekeeper is offering us a tour of the inside along-with the famed ceiling for a price of UZS 10000 Uzbek Soum (USD 0.75) each. We first opt to walk around the Aksaray Mausoleum to see the Amir Timur Mausoleum with the blue skies. When we come back to the entrance, the door is open, and the gatekeeper is taking money from some Russian speaking tourists. It is a chance viewing of the blue and gold ceiling which looks stunning but also quite shiny making me wonder if it has been freshly painted!

Rukhobod Mosque or Rukhabad Mausoleum

We wander back to the Gur-e-Amir Mausoleum and start walking through the green park in front of it to spot the painted ceilings of a nearby mosque. Since it is the month of Ramzan, prayers are going on and we are pleased to gaze at the exquisitely painted wooden ceiling. It is the month of Ramadan and prayers are currently being held.

Rukhobod Mausoleum and Handicraft Center

Adjacent to the Ruhabad Mosque or the Rukhobod Mosque, there is a signboard for another monument. Since, we have no plan set in stone, we enter inside the compound and see that this is an artisan centre with about 15-20 of nice-looking shops set in the courtyard. It is one of the oldest mausoleums in Samarkand and made from bricks (in the year 1380) and was renovated recently.

It is bitterly cold after yesterday’s snowfall and half the shops are still closed at the relatively early hour of 930 am. The prices for the usual Uzbek souvenirs quoted at the shops here are quite reasonable and if Samarkand was not our first city, we might have ended up buying a number of souvenirs! We buy a cute handmade doll set for UZS INR 20000 (USD 1.6). On display and sale are miniature paintings, suzani embroidery table runners and bedcovers, embroidered jackets and Uzbek-style adras or ikat jackets.

Registan Square

Samarkand’s or even Uzbekistan’s claim to fame, the majestic Registan square is a collection of three monuments. From the viewing deck, the monuments are perfectly placed on the left, center and right so that you can gaze and gawk at the majestic sight in front of you! Even though we had stood at the viewing deck on the previous day and found Registan Square underwhelming; the blue skies and shining sun today combine to create sheer grandeur of this UNESCO World Heritage Site. There are still bits of snow that have not melted yet, and it is nice to see the bright colours of the blooming spring flowers to warm the heart. Entry tickets to Registan Square are available from a kiosk and cost UZS 80000 (Uzbek Soum) about USD $7.5.

History & Heritage of Registan Square

Registan Square is a history and architecture lover’s delight. It comprises of three monuments, here is the order as seen from the viewing deck – Ulugh Beg Madrassah on the left, the majestic Tilya Kori Madrassah in the centre and the Sher Dor Madrassah to the right. According to historical records, Registan Square was an important center of trade in the 15th-16th Century. The complex consisted of several mosques used for prayers and learning, caravanserais, bazaars, a khanqah (inn for Sufis). The small rooms surrounding the courtyard of all the three madrassahs in Registan Square which earlier served as learning cells now function as souvenir shops. The Registan entry ticket is valid for the entire day, so it’s recommended to take the tickets back when you present it to the guards so that you can visit Registan in the evening same day without paying again for the same.

The ground floor rooms were initially classrooms and the upper floor was used as sleeping quarters for the students. Now these cells are creatively used by souvenir shops selling intricate suzanis, ikat, pottery, jackets, scarves and other Uzbek handicrafts. Registan Square (and other monuments of Samarkand) was damaged by earthquakes numerous times and the monuments have been heavily restored, like many other monuments across Samarkand. Tickets for Registan Square include entrance to the three madrassahs. An almost unknown fact is that Registan Square has a gory past attached to it as it was also used for public executions at one point of time.

Ulugh Beg Madrassah (15th Century) – It is the oldest of the three madrassahs of the Registan Square; originally built very swiftly in a short period of three years (1417-1420) AD by Ulugh Beg, grandson of Amir Timur. Ulugh Beg was a mathematician and an astronomer and that is evident in the depiction of the sky and stars embellished on the entrance-arch tile work of the monument. In the courtyard, there are approximately 50 cells, where about 200 students were taught astronomy and mathematics. It is possible to climb to the second floor of the madrassah for a nice bird’s eye view of the Registan Square.

Tilya Kori Madrassa also (Tilla Kari Madrassah) (17th Century)- The golden ceiling of the Tilya Kori Madrassah is special and a hallmark of this monument. Shaybanid Emir Yalangtush built this mosque that is adorned with gold leaf. It served as a caravanserai for travellers and was the last of the three monuments built on the Registan Square. Tilya Kori literally means gold covered and this refers to the spectacular golden ceiling! An interesting trivia about this monument is that while the elaborate gilded ceiling in the Tilya Kori Mosque’s central chamber looks like a hollow dome, it is in fact flat and is merely an optical illusion. Photos of the Registan square before renovation are on display in one of the exhibits in the Tilya Kori Madrassa.

Sher Dor Madrassah (17th Century) – Located on the right of Tilya Kori Madrassa, the Sher Dor madrassa could be said to be less popular among the photo-ops. Its chief differentiator is the mosaic tile work that shows the sun, a tiger and deers on both sides of the entrance arch. While Islam prohibits the depiction of living beings, a Zoroastrian past is visible on the façade of the Sher Dor Madrassah where the animals are depicted.

Entrance Fee & Timings : 80000 Uzbek Soum (USD 6.5), open from 7 am till late night.

Best time to visit Registan Square : Early morning before the tour groups arrive and sunset time.

Tip : Emirhan Restaurant has a fabulous view of the Registan Square!

Night Lights at Registan Square – Registan Sound and Light Show

We return to Registan Square in the evening and are welcomed with an ethereal evening light casting an orange hue on the monuments. The golden façade of the Tilya Kori Madrassah looks even more mesmerising during sunset time. The wind is ferociously cold and we are caught unawares. We want to enjoy wandering around the monuments of Samarkand in the lights and therefore decide to quickly head back to our guest house; wear another layer and come back to the Registan Square.

We take a shortcut and are back in less than 20 minutes. Of course, a few minutes of the sunset are missed, but it made more sense to be ready for the cold since it has snowed only the day before and the temperature is close to negative. When we come back, it is a surreal sight with the majestic Registan Square lit up in perfect yellow-orange lights. At about 7 pm, the Light and Sound show started and the monuments of Registan Square are getting lit up in myriad colours. The evening lights and Light and Sound show is best watched from the viewing deck or from the steps where you can relax as well!

Entry : UZS 60000, or simply watch it for free from the steps or the viewing deck!

Heritage Walk in Samarkand

Starting from the Registan Square in Samarkand, this self-styled heritage walk is via a cobblestone path that connects the major historical and must-see monuments in Samarkand. We take a right at the end of the Islam Karimov statue park and continue on the pedestrian walking area. There are souvenir shops and a few restaurants, chaikhanas, milliy taomlar (Uzbek national foods) eateries lining both the sides. I highly recommend exploring the heritage attractions of Samarkand by walk as it gives a more authentic feel. The heritage walk is quite convenient as it starts on the Islam Karimov street and continues to the Shah I Zinda necropolis.

As we start the walk, we come across a conveniently located cafe serving ice-creams, cold drinks, snacks and other basic stuff. It is perhaps in preparation for the summer when it is the most popular season for tourists to visit Samarkand and the weather starts becoming hotter. The souvenir shops on the left and the right look the same with the usual suzani, machine made ikat, pottery knick-knacks, jackets, bags and the likes. We spot a few interesting eateries and enter one of them; the setting is impeccable with a topchan (Uzbek style sitting) bed flanked by a tree resulting in dappled sunlight.

Craftsmen’s Centre on Islam Karimov Street

While on the heritage walk on the cobblestone path, we see a signboard for Craftsmen’s Centre. Always keen on handmade arts and crafts, we immediately head to the spacious building. The courtyard is beautiful with plants and trees and is surrounded by artisan shops. The potter crafting delicate blue pieces has a lovely collection, and the metal artisan chiseling plates is engrossed in work. Some of the shops are closed, but we are pleased to browse the excellent collection at Art Gallery Happy Bird. The leather workshop guy has excellent stuff as well but is a tad too expensive.

Bibi Khanym Mosque or Bibi Khanum Mosque

As you keep walking on the heritage trail for 5-7 minutes from the Craftsmen’s Centre, you come cross the Bibikhanum Teahouse on your left and reach the mosque which is another 2 minute walk. The first impression as you walk towards the Bibi Khanym Mosque is massive. At 41 metres, it was one of the highest and biggest mosques in the world when it was built in the 15th Century. This mosque was largely financed by Timur’s spoils resulting from the invasion of India. Historical records state that a huge number of slaves and about 100 elephants were brought from India for its construction. The size of the Bibi Khanym mosque is so massive that it had started crumbling even before the construction was entirely finished! We are finally able to capture the huge mosque in one frame from the opposite Bibi Khanym Mausoleum.

The architecture style of Bibi Khanym Mosque is said to have been inspired from Iran with four towering minarets and a massive dome. The interior is filled with intricate tile-work like the other historical monuments of Samarkand. This mosque was heavily damaged in an earthquake in 1897 which caused significant destruction across Samarkand. In 1970, work began on restoring it almost entirely from scratch with speedy culmination after Uzbekistan’s independence in 1991. Bibi Khanum, who ordered the mosque to be built was Amir Timur’s Chinese wife. She was a Chagatai princess by the name of Saray Mulk Khanum and was a direct descendent of Genghis Khan.

Entry fee: 50000 UZS (4 USD)

Bibi Khanym Mausoleum

Lying opposite to the Bibi Khanym Mosque, the mausoleum is the place where Bibi Khanym (Amir Timur’s wife) was buried. It is a simple looking small building compared to the other monuments in Samarkand. The lady at the entrance asked us for UZS 10000 per person entry which we promptly refused since it is not a ticketed monument. Later, I saw some foreigners pay UZS 25000 per person for entering! It is best to see the Bibi Khanym Mausoleum from the outside and be away from the touristy trail for a few quiet moments from the bustle of Bibi Khanym mosque.

Siyob Bazar (Siyob Bozor)

Siyob bazaar lies at a stone’s throw from Bibi Khanym Mosque on the Samarkand Heritage Walking Trail. It is Samarkand’s largest and oldest bazaar; with a history spanning about 2000 years! As you enter, you can spot the ladies to your left selling fresh dairy produce like paneer, cheese, kurt and varieties of halva. An entire section of the market is filled with dry-fruit sellers, vegetable sellers, fruit sellers, and spice sellers as well. The covered section has a couple of souvenir shops that try to sell average quality overpriced stuff, so better to steer clear of them! In comparison, the smaller shops lining the periphery of the bazaar have varied collections and might be a better place to bargain for some unique Samarkand and Uzbek souvenirs.

The pistachio halva (that tastes like a sweet nougat) is a popular takeaway from Samarkand; we tasted it at Sharq Halva the previous day and did not like it at all! So be wary of touristy gimmicks and try a taster before buying. Seasonal fruits and vegetables are a good buy at the Siyob Bazaar; I highly recommend trying the apples as Uzbekistan grows a large variety of tasty apples priced at about UZS 12500 (USD 1) per kilo.. Among other offerings are dry fruits, nuts, baked non (Samarkand non breads are special), handicrafts, caps, tubeteikas, glazed pottery plates and lots more. Depending on the season, watermelons and muskmelons in summer and grapes in autumn.

We are a bit tired with the walks and exploration and opt to sit at one of the truly local eateries in Siyob Bozor. Sunshine is streaming in, and the seating is Uzbek style tapchan. The eatery is crowded with locals, and we are glad to experience a restaurant/cafe in true Uzbekistan or Central Asian style. A pot of green tea and freshly baked non costs about UZS 10000 (USD 0.75). I nibble on an apple that we had just bought from one of the sellers at Siyob Bozor. Also, the best part about Siyob Bazaar is that entry is free! (Take that as a pun, as with ticketed entry everywhere – nothing or nowhere is free in Samarkand!)

Hazrat Khizr Mosque

Rejuvenated after a break, we continue our stroll and come to an intersection. Spring flowers are blooming in a range of glorious colours on the pavement. On the left is a majestic looking mosque on an uphill climb while the straight path would lead to the ruins of ancient settlement Afrasiab. There are people standing in the richly painted wooden balcony. As we climb the stairs, the snow-clad mountains are visible in the far distance. The sky is absolutely clear after the snowstorm of the previous day. We are excited at the prospect of a bird’s eye view of Samarkand from the vantage point of the Hazrat Khizr Mosque. Bibi Khanym Mosque’s real splendour is visible from one of the balconies and on the other side are partial views of Shah-I-Zinda necropolis and one can also spot the ruins of Afrasiab in the far distance flanked by the snow mountains.

The mosque looks recently renovated and has an interesting mix of blue tiles and intricate geometric patterns combining to create an inviting and unique architectural style. The open courtyard of the mosque is spacious, and is dotted with several smaller enclosures. We rush to the balcony and are in awe of the stunning painted wooden ceiling. The ancient and modern blend of Samarkand is beautifully juxtaposed with the three-hundred-degree view of the snowy mountain ranges. As we walk in the central courtyard, a friendly Uzbek family played a bollywood song and we have a little dance with them before clicking pictures!

Entry to Hazrat Khizr is free!

History of Hazrat Khizr Mosque

Hazrat Khizr mosque is one of the oldest buildings in Samarkand and was originally built in the 8th century. It is named after the Sufi saint Hazrat Khizr. The mosque built in the 8th Century was destroyed and burnt to the ground by Genghis Khan in his attack of 13th century. It was partially rebuilt in 1854 and was recently restored in the 1990s.

Islam Karimov Mausoleum

In the open courtyard of the Hazrat Khizr Mosque, there is a gleaming mausoleum of Uzbekistan’s first president Islam Karimov, who died in 2016. The mausoleum was built in 2018 but totally blends in with the architectural style as the other parts of the Hazrat Khizr mosque. Entry fee inside the tomb is UZS 20000.

Shah I Zinda or Shakhi Zinda

Shah-I-Zinda necropolis is a collection of ornate mausoleums built from the 11th to 19th Century. It is an art lover’s dream come true with some of the most exquisite blue tilework in entire Central Asia and each mausoleum looking more elaborate (and bluer) than the others! Some of the mausoleums are for important members of the royal family from the Timurid era while the most stunning architecture dates from the 14th and 15th century. Shah I Zinda literally translates to ‘tomb of the living king’ which refers to the grave of Qusam-ibn-Abbas (cousin of Prophet Mohammed), who is said to have brought Islam to Samarkand in the 7th Century.

Among the most impressive sights in the Shah I Zinda necropolis complex are the Shodi Mulk Oko Mausoleum, Shirin Beka Oka mausoleum, Ali Nesefi mausoleum and Amirzadeh mausoleum. Remember to dress conservatively covering your shoulders and knees as this is a sacred site.

Note: Even though Shah I Zinda complex’s tombs survived more than seven centuries with only minor upkeep, recently almost all the tombs were controversially restored in 2005. Hence a word of caution, if you think everything is old; then the answer is no. In simple words, much of the mind-blowing mosaic and terracotta work you see today is not original and has been highly restored.

Afrasiyab Settlement Ruins

The Afrasiyab Settlement in Samarkand, Uzbekistan is an important historical site that dates to the pre-Islamic period. It is believed to be the ancient city of Marakanda, founded in the 7th century BC by the Sogdians, a Central Asian civilization. Samarkand was a prosperous city on the hill until it was destroyed by the Mongol invasion in the 13th Century. Afrasiyab ruins are reached by a walk – we continue on the same heritage walking trail past the Hazrat Khizr mosque. The distance is about 1.5 kms and it is a pleasant walk that should take about 20 minutes.

Afrasiyab Museum

Adjacent to Afrasiyab settlement ruins, the Afrasiyab museum should be visited first to get a real sense of the ruins. Among the ancient things on display is a damaged 7th-century fresco of a Zoroastrian Nowruz celebration. The Afrasiyab museum is dedicated to the history of Samarkand and the surrounding region. The museum also showcases a number of treasured artefacts like murals, ceramics and textiles from the Sogdian period, that offer insights into the life and culture of the people who lived during that time.

Entry : 40000 UZS

Observatory of Ulugbek

Constructed in 1429 by Ulugbek, this was the first astronomical observatory in Central Asia before it was destroyed in 1445 by religious fanatics. Ulugbek was a keen astronomer and was able to calculate the length of a star year to a one-minute difference to our current calculations, almost 600 years ago! There is a museum in the same complex right next to the observatory, where visitors can learn more about the observatory and see the remnants of the instruments from the 15th Century.

Ulugbek’s Observatory is a bit far (about 6 kms) from the other attractions of Samarkand and it is best to take a Yandex taxi to go there.

Entry : 40000 UZS (About 3.2 USD)

Offbeat Samarkand

If you are staying in Samarkand for more than 2-3 days in the high season and are bored of seeing the monuments with the tourist hordes; here’s your chance to find some solace at some of these offbeat sights in Samarkand.

Gumbaz Synagogue

About 10 minutes walk from Shah I Zinda, tucked in a by-lane lies Gumbaz Synagogue that was built in 1891 for Samarkand’s Jewish community. The inner domed hall of the synagogue has a beautiful ceiling. In the present day, hardly 50 Jews remain in Samarkand and there are no fixed days for the minyan ceremony. Caretaker may ask for UZS 50000 per person in the name of donation!

Islam Karimov Statue

In the morning when we were roaming in the periphery of the Registan Square, I notice a colourful sight in a nearby green space and we decide to go there later. Hiding in plain sight, this bronze statue is a tribute to the late first president of Uzbekistan, who ruled for 25 years. The lush garden is popular with local Samarkand folks for wedding photography of newlyweds! The Islam Karimov statue is in the middle of the park. Come in the evenings to observe the kids take joy rides on the tricycles. A variety of popcorn is available for sale on the mobile carts.

Cemetery or Kabristan

Hardly one minute distance from the Hazrat Khizr mosque lies Samarkand’s main cemetery. It is a fascinating place to walk with interesting epitaphs and relative quiet from the other surrounding chaotic and popular monuments of Samarkand. The cemetery has novel views of Shah I Zinda and the Afrosiyab ruins can be seen in the far distance, flanked by snowy mountains in the far distance.

Museum of Regional Studies, Samarkand

Located a stone’s throw away from the Central Park, the Museum of Regional Studies in Samarkand is devoted to Uzbek Jewish history. The museum is located in an old Jewish merchant’s house, and old photos of Samarkand’s sizeable population of Bukhara and European Jews are on display.

Entrance : 25000 UZS, extra for photography

Jewish Cemetery

We were pleasantly surprised at coming across the doors of the Jewish Cemetery in Samarkand with an ornamental gateway engraved with the star of David. The cemetery is well maintained and is hardly 5 minutes’ walk from Shah I Zinda, along the Islam Karimov street. Based on my visit, there is no entry fee.

Samarkand Bukhara Silk Carpets Factory

One of the highlights of our explorations in Samarkand was stumbling upon the riches of Samarkand Bukhara Silk Carpets Factory! I can count myself lucky to see the highest quality of artisanship creating and showcasing priceless handmade carpets. We were given a proper tour of the weaving process, details about using natural dyes and also shown the different varieties of kilims, rugs, silk rugs, sozani, jackets and many more handicrafts! There was no pressure to buy and that is a refreshing change as tourist hotspots invariably try to exhort money from you.

Even if you are not planning to buy a kilim or carpet or do any shopping whatsoever, I highly recommend visiting this place to observe the process of high quality carpet weaving. The Samarkand Bukhara Silk Carpets factory is a 10 minute walk from the Jewish Cemetery.

Central Park in Samarkand

If you are bored of visiting Samarkand’s popular attractions with busloads of tourists and want to just get away from the action and spend some time like the locals do, then Central Park is a good place. It is a lovely green space with plenty of flowers in spring and is a hotspot for children who come to enjoy bike rides in the evening. A nice park for a relaxed walk and get rejuvenated to get back to Samarkand’s main attractions!

Wine Tasting in Samarkand at Khovrenko Wine Factory

Visiting the Khovrenko wine factory is an interesting insight in the world of Uzbek wine. The Khovrenko winery has been making wines since 1868. The in-house Samarkand Museum of winemaking has some interesting photos of Soviet wine production in the 1930s. The wine tasting is priced at UZS 100000 to UZS 200000 and includes 3 white wines, 4 red wines, 2 Uzbek cognacs and 1 aperitif.

Statue of Amir Timur

A chance find, I spotted this statue in the middle of a green park while heading back to the Samarkand train station. This majestic statue of Timur seated on a throne is located very close to the Amir Timur mausoleum and is the start of Samarkand’s modern part built by the Russians in the 20th Century.

Day Trips from Samarkand

Meros Paper Making Factory in Konigil, Samarkand

Located about 10 kms from Samarkand in Konigil village, Meros paper making factory is home to a team of skilled craftsmen employing traditional methods to create handmade paper. Visitors can watch the one hour workshop process (UZS 15000) from start to finish to learn about the traditional technique of making paper. The souvenir shop has interesting accessories for sale created from handmade paper. Konigil village is a nice place to visit if you are staying in Samarkand for more than 3 days. There’s also a pottery making workshop nearbuy in Konigil.

Entry : 15000 UZS

Among other offbeat sights and attractions in Samarkand, the 9th Century mausoleum of Imam al-Bukhari located about 25 kms from Samarkand, State Museum of History of Culture, Urgut town’s bazaar and Chor-Chinor garden about 40 kms from Samarkand.

Day Trips from Samarkand

Shakhrisabz, the birthplace of Amir Timur (a village nearby) is a UNESCO heritage site with many notable attractions like Aksaray Palace, Tomb of Amir Timur (he was buried instead in Samarkand), Kok Gumbaz mosque, Amir Timur museum and other historic attractions. Shakhrisabz (also called Shahrisabz) is about 90 kms from Samarkand and can be reached by a shared taxi (called marshrutka).

Practical Tips for Visiting Samarkand

Best Weather to visit Samarkand?

Weather wise, mid-March to May and mid-September to October is the best time to visit Samarkand when the temperature ranges between 32 degrees maximum to 8 degrees minimum. It is the most popular time for tourists and expect crowds everywhere you go. June, July and August are the hottest months when the temperature in Samarkand hits over 36 degrees and sometimes reaches 42 degrees. Spend the afternoons cooling down if you choose to go during the summer season.

December and January are the coldest months in Samarkand with night temperatures plummeting to -15 degrees. If you are used to the cold, it could be a great time to see the monuments in white snow. You will encounter almost zero tourists and have the sights of Samarkand to yourself. The months of November and February are cold but bearable and can serve as the perfect shoulder season for visiting Samarkand. Indoors across Uzbekistan are centrally heated, so no problem for the chilly nights if you want to visit when there are lesser tourists. Pack heavy winter jackets, caps, socks and thermals if you choose to travel in the cold weather as the dry Central Asian cold can be pretty rough!

Accommodation in Samarkand?

There are a number of homestays, hotels, hostels, guest houses to stay close to the main sights in Samarkand. Price options for backpackers, budget stays, luxury accommodation are plentiful. We had booked a family run guest house which turned out to be excellent. It is best to book in advance in high season.

How to reach Samarkand?

Samarkand has an international airport and is very well connected by road and railway.

From Tashkent by train – Multiple train options like Afrosiyob and Sharq from Tashkent to Samarkand throughout the day. Recommended to book in advance. Book from the official Uzbek Railways website.

From Bukhara by train – Multiple train options like Afrosiyob and Sharq from Bukhara to Samarkand throughout the day. It is best to book in advance directly from the Uzbek Railways website.

Where to eat in Samarkand?

Some of the best eateries in Samarkand are not on the touristy trail. Milliy Taomlar eateries serve traditional dishes in a relaxed seating. Restaurants and cafés located close to the attractions are a hit and miss and its best to check the latest reviews before deciding on a place.

Even though I have tried to cover everything that came to mind, I am welcome to suggestions to make additions to this travel guide to Samarkand.

In a way it felt like Samarkand had saved its best for the last. As the modern Afrosiyab train rolled onto the platform, deep-throated, guttural cries of ‘Samarkand non, Samarkand non’ rang in my ears. There was a bit of Silk Road still left in Samarkand. Perhaps I will return someday (in better weather?) to let the city change my opinion.

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We landed in Istanbul and travelled across Turkey to places like Trabzon, Van, Gaziantep, Izmir, Selçuk, Antalya and traversed across numerous towns and villages in the Turkish countryside. If you are planning a trip to Turkey, here are the links for the posts.

Istanbul : Tips for Backpacking

Trabzon : Travels on the Black Sea Coast

Van : A City of All Day Breakfasts

Gaziantep : UNESCO approved eating!

Photographs and Memories from Travels across Turkey

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The Tiger’s Nest Monastery is said to have originally been founded in the eighth century by Buddhist saint Padmasambhava also known as Guru Rinpoche. Guru Padmasambhava is believed to have arrived at Tiger’s Nest from Tibet, on the back of a flying tiger. Here, he meditated in a cave on the cliff before he set out to convert Bhutan and nearby regions in the Himalaya to Buddhism. In 1692, a temple was built at the site known locally as the Taktsang Lakhang or more popularly Tiger’s Nest Monastery.

We reach the parking area that is quite sizeable and there is a recently put up signboard of 500 Nu (Bhutanese currency Ngultrum equivalent to INR) entry fee to be paid by Indian Nationals. Since this trip was a part of a package with the family; there was a guide accompanying us for the hike and he remarked that the trek distance is about 10-11 kms (round trip) and that we should easily be back by evening. One can rent hiking sticks from the entrance point for 50 Nu. Official trek timings for the Tiger’s Nest Monastery are from 8 am to 5 pm (timings differ in the winters). My mom and dad opted to stay back in the parking lot. We started our hike and there was also a newly married Indian couple in our group who were unsure whether they would be able to hike up as the lady had come in her leather chappals. We just gave them the moral support as they seemed reasonably fit and urged them to keep walking and that they will surely make it to the Tiger’s Nest Monastery.

We started the hike at around eight in the morning, while the numerous souvenir-selling stalls were being set up in the designated area close to the car park. The trail to the Tiger’s Nest Monastery is the most visited trail in Bhutan and is quite well marked (there is no possibility of losing your way). I spotted school groups, college kids, youngsters, lamas and foreign tourists numerous times on the hike. The trail begins with a stiff uphill ascent, and is a steady climb all the way to the Tiger’s Nest with a few slushy patches because of the rain. The air felt nippy in the morning, then progressed to humid as the sun made its way through the clouds and then turned properly cold as we gained altitude while reaching the monastery. The hike was pleasant as most of it goes through the forest and there is rarely a sunny stretch on the entire trail. There are sweeping views of the valley below and since the monsoon was in full swing, the greenery is eye-catching.

At the start of the trail; along the way, we encounter numerous shrines that have a rotating mane prayer wheel run by a flowing waterfall. After trekking for an hour or so, we reach a sort of flat ground with rows of prayer flags strung across trees. Along the trail, there are benches to sit / numerous places to rest for pilgrims – especially on the uphill climbs. We can hear the sounds of numerous streams and waterfalls even before the halfway point of the trek, that is the Taktsang Cafeteria. It is a well equipped cafeteria with a nice indoor space to sit and eat for cold and rainy days, while the outdoor space has a stunning view of the Tiger’s Nest Monastery while the clouds continue playing games.

The Taktsang cafeteria is immensely crowded with tour groups and I am able to get hold of a chair and simply gaze at the surreal sight in front of me! We opt to not eat / drink anything and to just stop there for a quick breather. I have a quick glance at the menu and notice that everything is quite overpriced but I guess thats ok since the supplies have to be carried on mules/foot. There is a small souvenir shop as well and I wonder that the café would indeed be a good place to sit and relax on the way back – if one is hungry, or if it rains! It is a nice 5-10 minute break for us and everyone catches their breath back. The newly-married couple is doing well and have grown in confidence now that they know that they have reached the halfway point of the trek within reasonable time. We get back on the trail and are pleased to enter a dense shaded area since the sun is out after battling with the clouds and the humidity is high.

As soon as we make a small ascent, a nice breeze blows and makes the hike enjoyable once again. I spot a number of mules tethered near the Taktsang cafeteria and realise that mules can be hired by visitors from the parking lot to the halfway point of Taktsang Cafeteria for about 600-800 Nu. The trail is a continuous gentle climb from now on and after 30 minutes or so, we are on a platform with level views of the Tiger’s Nest Monastery. Clouds have come floating around and I spot a raised platform nearby specifically meant for sitting. There’s a mane prayer wheel inside a small shrine where I chat up with a few lamas.

Just after that, there are a number of stairs heading towards a shrine set in a cave to the left. We have apparently reached one of the caves where Padmasambhava meditated; that are spread around the temple complex. The sounds of a roaring waterfall nearby feel like music to the ears in a serene environment. We are on a bridge and have nearly reached the main Tiger’s Nest Monastery. I am a bit disappointed to know at the entrance that cameras are not allowed inside! There’s a locker service (free of charge) where visitor’s bags, mobile phones, cameras and other belongings are to be compulsorily kept. We keep our stuff and notice that tea and snacks are being served to a tour group (free of charge, again) but since we don’t feel like eating anything, we opt to just enter the monastery since the crowd was increasing.

Inside the monastery, it is a complex of caves and dimly-lit shrines connected by stone steps and rickety bridges. The meditation cave is open only once a year from 6am-6pm on a chosen date based on the lunar calendar.

The guide explained the different parts of the monastery and the unique features that made it different than say monasteries in Ladakh or Spiti or Lahaul or Zanskar but it was too much information too fast and the fact that there wasn’t much time allowed since the different parts would get crowded with tourists. I was unable to click any photographs and can’t even rely on memory to rescue me! After trying to spend a few peaceful moments inside the Tiger’s Nest Monastery, we started on our hike back. It was pretty uneventful and was relatively faster and much easier than the way up (obviously!).

We hardly took an hour and a half to get back to the parking lot. On the drive back to Paro, I made a mental note to stay near the base of the Tiger’s Nest Monastery next time for its pretty location close to the river.

Good to Know

There’s a compulsory 500 Nu entry fee to be paid by Indian Nationals. Round trip distance from the parking spot to the Tiger’s Nest Monastery is about 10-11 km and the entire day hike should take about 6-7 hours. Hiking sticks are available for rent from the entrance point for 50 Nu. Trek timings for the Tiger’s Nest Monastery are from 8 am to 5 pm. Halfway Taktsang Cafeteria. It is recommended to carry a jackets as the weather can change in an instant and it is almost always cold at over 3000m altitude.

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It is very cold and cloudy, and the sun is not out yet. Remember that we have not taken any local sim on this winter trip in Turkey and have no internet. We have reached Gaziantep in the dark at about 6 am. Gaziantep is old as a city and has a long and illustrious history that dates to 4000 BC. In 2015, Gaziantep has been added to the list : UNESCO’s Creative Cities Network as a creative city of gastronomy.

Check the previous posts from this Turkey trip :

All in a Day – Delhi to Istanbul to Trabzon

On the Black Sea Coast of Turkey – 2 Days in Trabzon

Of Breakfasts and Mountains : Van, Turkey

Istanbul – Top Backpacking Hacks for a Shoestring Budget

Thankfully, we have taken screenshots of the possible stay options based on the research and try showing them to the Vangölü staff guys. They are unhelpful (or maybe don’t know). We walk out of Gaziantep Otogar and someone asks us to show the address to the local city bus called ‘Halk Bus’. There is a bus stop just as we exit Gaziantep Otogar and there are multiple Yellow Halk Buses going on different routes. Our challenge is to figure out which bus to sit in!

We keep asking and a local guy on the street understands English and tells us to show the screenshot of the hotel address to the driver of the Halk Bus. Finally after 30 odd minutes, one of the Halk Bus drivers puts the location in his google maps and makes us sit in the bus!

Our destination is Sahinbey area in Gaziantep and it will take around 25 minutes. We don’t have a AntepKart but a local helps us and we pay 3 TL each for the ride to Sahinbey.

The ancient city of Gaziantep is waking up in the darkness and the baking of breads in old tandoors is visible as the bus passes through residential lanes. We seem to be the cynosure for curious eyes in the bus and the mention of Hindistan brings smiles of welcome! Everybody loves Indians in Turkey and is well aware of Bollywood movies and Indian television dramas.

The locals and the bus driver ask us to get down at a bus stop and even though we have no idea of where we are, we get down at the intersection of a street. We get lucky after asking multiple people, someone understands our predicament and asks us to cross the road and keep walking straight.

The daylight is finally improving and we are overjoyed to spot the Gaziantep Kalesi (Castle) on a hillock, lit up in warm light! A rustling wind blows carrying leaves with it, we are in a heritage area of Gaziantep and there are wide avenues for walking with benches conveniently placed to sit. After walking for 5 minutes, we come across an avenue with lanes going in different directions.

Our shortlisted heritage hotel – Ali Bey Konagi is quite close but it is only 7-730 am and the weather feels so cold that we want to wait. I spot a small coffeehouse, Kir Kahvesi to our right. It has a nice outdoor seating and closed space with a view of Gaziantep Castle and we request the owner to open the doors for us. Kir Kahvesi is a popular place for youngsters to smoke Nargile (sheesha) and we would later learn that Gaziantep is big on Nargile!

We just ask for two Turkish çay (tea) so that we can sit for some time in the warm and cozy interiors. We thank the old guy and pay the overpriced çay bill for 2.5 TL each! It is much brighter at about 8 am and we haul our backpacks and daypacks and begin the most important task of finding a place to stay.

Ali Bey Konagi is our first choice and we ring the bell. As it is too early, the original owner is not there and his friend shows us the cheapest priced room. The open air courtyard is a gorgeous space with a tree in autumn colours. Ali Bey Konagi is a heritage structure converted into a boutique homestay-hotel and it looks very pleasing to the eye.

The price for the room is quoted at 230 TL and that does not include kahvalti (breakfast). We tell him that we might stay for 2 days and quote 200 TL as our final price. The guy indicates that he can’t give us a price lower than the owner has told him to give and asks us to go elsewhere. He isn’t very helpful when we ask him to recommend us a cheaper place nearby.

We go back to the earlier lane where I had spotted a few ‘Konagi’ signboards. The literal definition of Konagi means mansion and it is a no-brainer for us to choose a heritage homestay rather than a multi storey hotel. We go to one Efe Bey Konagi Butik Otel which is a family run place and the owner’s young son shows us the room and offers us a 170 TL price.

We make it 170TL including Kahvalti and he is overjoyed to have tourists from Hindistan staying at his home! Efe Bey Konagi is a nice old property and our room is a heated wooden room. The bathroom is spacious as well and the towels are nice and clean. We congratulate ourselves on a job well done and decide to relax and sleep for a bit.

It is freezing cold in Gaziantep and we are already feeling under the pump in the morning. We have a hot water shower and lie down. Now that there is wifi available, we research about the heritage of Gaziantep and realise that we are indeed staying in the right place in old Gaziantep heritage city.

We get up and are ready to leave at about 1130 am after having munched on dried mulberries and chivda (savoury from India). For starters, we take our daypacks and dress well for a cold day as there is no sign of sun. We are strolling and taking in the sights of the old and historically important parts of Gaziantep and come across Imam Çagdas restaurant.

Imam Çagdas

Highly recommended eatery, it is super crowded and is teeming with people even though it is off-season for travel in Turkey. I give in to popular opinion and step inside the world of Imam Çagdas. There are trays and stacks filled with varieties of freshly made baklava.

The menu at Imam Çagdas is very limited and the Adana Kebap is recommended even though it is priced at a very expensive 37TL. It is served with a complimentary salad and lavash bread. There is no vegetarian dish on the menu and that results in a very awkward situation.

Yesemek Restaurant

Thankfully, Yesemek Vegetarian foods is adjacent and is an award winning restaurant for serving traditional vegetarian foods of this region. The staff is very helpful and charming and recommends us the Çorba that looks delicious. It is a lentil soup and is priced at 12 TL. There are 2 varieties of bread that come complimentary in a basket, along-with salad. Yesemek has super cosy interiors and has a very nice and relaxed vibe for a restaurant.

There are little kids on the street trying to sell water bottles for prices cheaper than in shops. It is the first time we are seeing this in Turkey and later realise that these might be Syrian refugees as the Syrian border is not too far away from Gaziantep.

Gulluoglu Baklava

We make a short visit to Gulluoglu Baklava after our tummies are full. It is the most recommended place in Gaziantep for the best baklava. We get lucky and the staff decides to give us 3 pieces (instead of 2) of Fistikli Baklava (pistachio baklava) for the 10 Turkish Lira that we give them.

We have realised that it is a better idea to always give the money first and ask the staff to serve us accordingly because otherwise the portion sizes are huge sometimes. The smiles and mention of Hindistan is the reason they ask if we want more complimentary pistachios as well!

After that, we decide to walk around the heritage parts of Gaziantep and enter the Bakircilar Carsisi.

Bakircilar Carsisi – Coppersmith Bazaar

Bakircilar Carsisi translates to the Coppersmith Bazaar and is a truly local delight in Gaziantep. It is a covered bazaar and is full of shops selling exquisitely made metal crafts of copper. We like the Turkish coffee maker Cezve but can’t agree on the 35TL price. There is an engraved tray with a perfume sprinkler that I buy for 10+20 TL. We decide to come back later to Bakircilar Carsisi for a closer perusal.

We have a heartening connection in one of the shops at Bakircilar Carsisi. Our curious eyes follow 2 old gentlemen in a shop who are eating pistachios and sipping chai. They invite us in and welcome us with gusto hearing that we are from Hindistan. We thank them and tell them we don’t want to buy anything as of now.

They offer us tea and give us the super quality pistachios to eat (fistikli). The pistachios are out of the world and we ask them for help for buying the same. They are glad to assist us in the same and we buy 1/2 kg fistikli for 45 TL that was originally quoted at 55 TL. The region around Gaziantep produces a sizeable portion of the world’s pistachios!

On the way out, we come across a number of shops selling brightly coloured bags for about 10-15 TL each. One of the shops has an excellent collection and variety of bags in different colours. The price ranges from 10 TL to 30 TL and even though we want to take 1 each of all the sizes we don’t because there are still 9-10 more days for us in Turkey and we can’t carry all the weight around.

Gaziantep also has a rich history of migrants from Yemen crafting handmade leather shoes and I see and try some of them. The shoes are hand-stitched and are excellent and seem reasonably priced at about 90 TL.

Spices in Gaziantep

Unlike other parts of Turkey, Gaziantep seems to have a different flavour in food and the food here is actually spicy (sometimes). In fact, the Adana kebap and other dishes in and around this region are known for being hot! There is saffron, cumin, dried pepper, black pepper corns, sumac and ihlamur among other spices and herbs. Some of the shops also have exotic looking fruits like portakal. I spot orange sellers on carts, gorgeous orange colour with leaves intact, selling oranges for around 1.5 to 2 TL per kilo.

Tahmis Kahvesi

We had a taster of Gaziantep’s happening coffee houses early in the morning even when the place was empty. While strolling around after exiting Bakircilar Carsisi, we come across the oriental music coming from Tahmis Kahvesi while a signboard indicates that it was established in 1635 AD. A coffee house that is almost 400 years old!

We enter the hallowed interiors of Tahmis Kahvesi and are taken in by the bohemian vibe here. Men and women of all ages and ethnicities are mingling on tables and are sipping tiny cups of Turk Kahvesi (Turkish Coffee) and smoking Nargile (hookah or sheesha).

We order a Turkish coffee and one menangic coffee (pistachio coffee) that is a sort of a Gaziantep speciality. It is served with a small bowl of munchies in the form of nuts. The crowd is very fashionable and happening and perhaps it is the new age Turkey that we are seeing!

The interiors are kept warm with heaters and there are small open spaces on the upper part close to the roof for fresh air to come in and the smoke to go out. We sit and also pen down the highlights of our Turkey trip in the diary.

We think of ordering a 30TL Nargile later. It is around 4 pm and we meet a police guy who is overjoyed to take a photograph with Indians!

On the street, it is cold as usual and we realise the tiredness in our bodies. We walk back to Efe Bey Konagi and come across a Tekel shop (alcohol shop). On the way we see antique carpets and bags in the market; I am fascinated but keep my curiosity for another time.

At the Tekel shop, we have our eyes set on a Terra Kalecik Karasi 2016 Rose wine and get it for 40 TL. The wines in Turkey seem to have become costlier and I remember buying the same wine on an earlier trip for 25TL earlier.

Our boutique heritage homestay has 2 tables set in the open courtyard and wine glasses are kept on tables. We sit outside and sip wine, a stray leaf comes and falls around us. A slight drizzle begins, and we begin feeling Christmassy! After all, it is 25th December!

We sit in the room for a while and enjoy the warmth of the wood and the heating. It is a welcome bit of relaxation for us especially because we were really not feeling well in the morning.

We step out for an early dinner and decide to find a local lokantasi (cheap home cooked food place) for dinner; to balance for the especially costly food we had for lunch! Since we have already explored the heritage side of the street, we decide to go to the other side which has more chances of catering to the locals.

As if on cue; we are able to quickly locate a local eatery and are welcomed wholeheartedly by the staff. Our mention of Hindistanis makes them even more endearing towards us!

The staff is really helpful and help us in ordering a çorba and tavuk sis kebab which comes with complimentary tasty salad and breads. The food turns out to be very tasty and they also keep filling our cups with more Turkish çay. The warmth of the tandoor and the kindness in their hearts makes it a wonderful experience. We quickly remember to give them 2 masala chai sachet’s that we are carrying and thank them for a wonderful dinner!

Since our bottle of the rosé wine is already over, we go to a nearby tekel shop and buy a red wine bottle for 25 TL. This tekel shop doesn’t have much variety and we buy whatever the seller recommends.

On the walk, we come across another fancy looking boutique Hotel or Konagi and see a room that is quoted at 200 TL. We feel temptation in our heart and step into Imam Çagdas restaurant and ask for a cevizli baklava (walnut-filling baklava). It is cheaply priced at 14 TL and is okay-ish at best.

When we are walking in the old city of Gaziantep, it looks surreal when it is lit up in the night. The markets are already closed at about 8 pm and the streets are deserted. We sit on one of the benches and appreciate the cold breeze and the chill in the air. It is time to head back to our mansion, Efe Bey Konagi. The Gaziantep Kalesi looks beautiful in the night in warm lights.

The room is quite cold and we have to put the heating on after multiple tries of somehow making it work! We have not taken a decision yet on staying in Gaziantep or when to leave for Konya or Antalya. We do a lot of research and it ultimately feels like a waste of time when no solution is found. We decide to start watching a Christmas movie to change the mood but are very tired and our bodies are telling us to stay in Gaziantep for 1 more day.

We check the nearby hotels in Gaziantep one last time and come across one Rahmi Bey Konagi Butik Otel shown on some website for INR 1150 for a loft room. It is well past 10 pm as we hear the sound of pitter patter and go off to sleep in the cosy blanket.

With no onward plan in mind, we wake up to a rainy morning. It is a gloomy day, and even at 9 am it feels dark. We are still in two minds whether to stay in Gaziantep or leave for Konya. Ideally we would love to stay in Gaziantep because we have hardly seen anything here but the fact is that the weather is too cloudy and cold to properly enjoy it at this time.

At first, we go to the tiny breakfast room for the kahvalti. It is drizzling intermittently and is very cold with a strong breeze blowing. There’s a couple from Istanbul on the next table and for them Gaziantep is like a weekend vacation. The breakfast is excellent and we have multiple helpings of Turkish çay to make us feel warm. We get back to the room, finish our packing and leave the bags in the hotel.

We start walking in rainy Antep and decide to ask the locals for a bus ticket booking office of Metro Turizm or one of the known bus companies so that we can figure out our plans. The streets and roads are all washed in the rain and look new. Thankfully we have carried an umbrella from India and have it handy. We keep shivering and walking in the rain. It is unrelenting and cold on the streets of Gaziantep.

On the way we come across a Princess Hotel in one of the lanes. The manager is kind and shows us a room; it is very nice and warm and he quotes 140 TL for a room. Even though we like it very much, we still don’t finalise a deal and want to walk somewhere and find a bus booking office.

Upon asking the locals for the bus booking office, there are contradictory directions given by multiple people. Someone says that the Metro Turizm office is nearby while others say the only bus offices are at Gaziantep Otogar. After getting wet in the non-stop drizzle, we align our mind to give up the search for Metro Turizm and start looking for other bus booking offices.

There is one Ben Turizm office with a 2+2 bus; since we are clear about only taking a 2+1 bus we don’t give it a thought. We are extremely tired now and decide to pick our bags and go directly to Gaziantep Otogar at about 5:30 pm. We have checked the different mobile applications and are already aware of the bus timings of all the bus services that run from the Otogar.

We finally stop looking for a bus office and start our search for one of Gaziantep’s most famous creations called Katmer to be eaten at Katmerci Zekeriya Usta. Thankfully, the drizzle stops and a local guy walks with us and shows us to Katmerci Zekeriya Usta. It is a very cute 4 table restaurant that only serves katmer, çay and one more dish.

We sit and ask for 1 portion of Katmer that is priced at 28 TL. The waitress is very happy to meet tourists from Hindistan and tells us that usually everyone orders one Katmer each. We notice that the people ordering an entire Katmer for themselves are struggling to finish it.

Katmer is a sort of a filo pastry with a filling of pistachios with cream. It is extremely rich in taste, the staff winks at me and says it is a natural viagra. I go to see the kitchen and am astonished with the fine making of the katmer and the round dish with the pistachio filling.

It is around 2 pm and we go around Bakircilar Carsisi and an old market at Bedesten. We come across a boutique hotel Rahmi Bey Konagi on the walk and decide to check it out. It is a beautiful heritage boutique hotel and has cave-like rooms that remind us of Cappadocia.

The lady at the hotel is very sweet and shows us a beautiful big room and quotes 140TL, it has 2 big beds! We really like the place and request her to give it to us for 100 TL. She says yes! The decision has been made; because the bus tickets have not been bought we can stay in Gaziantep for another day!

I am relieved more than anything else and now we can go to Efe Bey Konagi and get our bags. At Rahmi Bey Konagi, it is still drizzling and the lady gives us 2 cups of Turkish çay.

We meet a couple from Tekirdag who are just leaving. They recommend to us baklava at Celebiogullari and Koçak as the two best places in Gaziantep. They are also carrying a big bag of Baclavaci Celebiogullari and we remember the name to go to the exact place among the plethora of baklava sellers in Antep. We thank them and give them masala chai from India!

We bring our bags and sit in the courtyard. In the meanwhile, the manager of Rahmi Bey Konagi, Yahya uncle comes and greets us! He is a chatty man and invites us inside their house that is located in the same building. We keep our bags inside the room and realise it is nice and warm because it is an old construction. Inside Yahya uncle’s home, it is cosy and we sit and click pictures with their cat, pakeezah.

It is a great cultural exchange and we have to use google translator to continue our conversations. We are plied with plenty of Turkish çay and in exchange make Indian masala chai for them which they didn’t like. Yahya uncle said that he was just the caretaker and that he lived in a small village 20 kms out of Gaziantep.

We take glasses for wine and go back to the room. It is good to be finally able to relax and sit and sip wine and eat the snacks that we had carried from India. We also write the diary and congratulated ourselves on the small victory even on a difficult day. It is an amazing room with lots of space and we are able to even dry our clothes that have got wet while walking in the rain.

Mosques in Gaziantep

There are many mosques in the heritage area of Sahinbey, Gaziantep. We see most of them from the outside and some of them from the inside : Sirvani Mosque, Boyaci Mosque, Omeriye Camii, Independence Mosque.

Carpets in Gaziantep

We step outside at around 5 pm and go around Bedesten old market to see the traditional market under lights; and meet Syrian refugees in a carpet shop. It is surprising to notice that they speak better english than Turkish people.

We go to Yesemek restaurant again for an early dinner and share a veg soup dish with veggies and chickpeas with pilaf rice. The staff has become like friends since we have visited many times and served us multiple cups of bergamot çay. We like it so much that we end up buying the bergamot tea leaves before going back to India. It is Earl Gray Lipton Bergamot çay.

We are happy and content with the simple dinner and walk to Baklavaci Celebiogullari for baklava. There are so many varieties that we get confused between deciding which one to eat. The staff is excited to see Hindistanis and give us 2 pieces to taste.

We are in awe with the taste, and announce it the best baklava in all of Gaziantep and Turkey. We ask for the same baklava for 10 TL. The serving boy is very kind and gives us 4 pieces! There are complimentary pistachios on the table and we sit and savour every bite of the baklava as a piece of heaven!

We thank the staff with all our heart, give them a masala chai and start walking back to our stay – Rahmi Bey Konagi. Yahya uncle shows us other rooms that are better but expensive and also the old painted ceiling of the building that is more than 100 years old.

We thank him for showing us these artistic parts and he treats us to one more çay before we say goodbye to him as he is driving to his village. We sit back in the room to decide our course of action for the next day and our next destination too – Konya or Antalya!

As we have met many locals travelling during the Christmas and New Year Holidays, we become slightly concerned with our lack of plans and ultimately arrive at a decision. We choose to drop Pamukkale from our plans; look at the bus schedules and agree to head to Antalya from Gaziantep. Konya shall be visited after Antalya and we look at 2-3 possible options of stay in Antalya.

It is a slightly difficult night as we are both feeling under the weather and cough and fever sets in. The cloudy weather of the day results in a steady drizzle all night. Thankfully there is a heater installed on the wall and that means we can dry our socks and other wet clothes.

We wake up at around 5 am; I open a window slightly to see that it is raining and is dark and very cold outside. It is 8 am when we finally wake up, ready to leave the cosy and warm bed. The blanket is especially soft and warm. I get a jug of hot water from the kitchen and make some Girnar masala chai. Yahya uncle has gone to his village and there is a young guy at the homestay instead.

Kahvalti (breakfast) is not included in the price of the room and aunty comes at around 10 am to tell us that Kahvalti for both of us will cost 50 TL. We decline the offer and choose to give our stomachs a break.

It continues raining and we sit and relax since our bus to Antalya will only be in the late hours of the evening. We finish writing the diary entries for the earlier days of the trip.

The hot water shower in the big bathroom is very comfortable and I instantly feel much better after a bath. We pack and leave the room at 12 noon. Our bags are kept in the outdoor space and aunty tells us we can pick them up anytime. We thank her and she responds by giving us a fridge magnet she has made herself.

Thankfully it is not raining anymore and we head directly to Yesemek Restaurant. We haven’t had breakfast today and it is time for brunch since we are quite hungry. We order 2 dishes and ask for kebap from the nearby shop. The food is excellent and is generously accompanied by salad, breads and tea. It costs 35TL + 14TL. The sky is overcast again and it begins drizzling as we buy the tickets to enter Gaziantep Castle.

Gaziantep Kalesi

Entry to Gaziantep Kalesi is 2TL. The drizzle is accompanied by cold winds. After the entrance there is a splendid museum inside which details the history of Gaziantep Castle.

We somehow manage to explore the different parts of this historic castle in the chilly wind. The museum shop has an excellent collection of bags and other stuff but the prices of the woven stuff are quite high and we end up not buying anything.

We finally decide to get a ticket to Antalya for the evening and began searching for a bus ticket office in the same region where we had explored the previous day. After a while we understand that there is no option of a 2×1 bus service.

Ben Turizm has a 2×2 bus and there is another bus company for expensive 125TL tickets. It starts raining heavily again and since we are unable to find a solution to our ticketing dilemma, we enter the office of a travel agent.

It is a big tourism office but they only do booking for flights. Luckily for us, the guy there speaks english and recommends us Ben Turizm or Sec Turizm buses which are both 2×2 seating options. He helps by telling us not to take Ozlem Diyarbakir and Can Diyarbakir as those bus services are bad. We thanked him and went to another bus ticketing office who is an agent for the online portal biletall.

He turns out to be a very kind guy who also speaks good english and recommends us to take Star Diyarbakir bus from Gaziantep to Antalya. The bus will leave at 715 pm and reach Antalya at 830 am next morning. We pay 100TL per person as it is a 2+1 bus and don’t receive any indirim (discount). I am very relieved to have finally booked the bus tickets to end the uncertainty.

It is around 2-230 pm and we stride back to Bakircilar Carsisi (Traditional Copper Market) and sit in Tahmis Kahvesi to write our diary entry. We ask for a Turkish coffee and zahter ( hot herbal drink). It only costs us 7TL+4 TL. Everyone is smoking nargile (hookah or sheesha).

We go to Baklavaci Celebiogullari for one last round of Baklava and try the kuru fistikli baklava for 10 TL. The staff is the same as the previous day and gives us 4 big pieces! We thank them and give tea packets as a gift.

The rain continues and has hardly stopped for 5-10 minutes throughout the day. We walk around and explore different Hali’s – they are beautiful buildings that serve as a complex of coffee shops, antique shops selling kilim carpets, unique textiles and souvenirs.

In one of the Hali shops, I come across stunning handmade carpets from Afghanistan, Iran and other countries being sold for a reasonable 200TL. I think about buying but realise that they are quite heavy in weight and we still have 10 more days for the return flight to India.

In a Syrian refugee shop, I notice a nicely designed carpet which is factory made. The gentleman at the shop quotes only 30TL for a huge 3×10 size runner. The small 2×3 size rugs are priced at 10TL. Some of the shops are selling locally designed bags for 10-20 TL each. If it was the last leg of our trip, it would have been a no-brainer to buy gifts for all and sundry back home.

We go back to our homestay at about 5 pm to pick our bags. Aunty has her sister and cousins visiting her. She invites us home and gives us 2 glasses of chai! The family is overjoyed to meet us and click a lot of pictures with their ‘Hindistan’ family. We ask for their leave as we still have to go to Gaziantep Otogar which is a fair distance away from here.

It starts drizzling again and thankfully the local bus stop is right on the road. A bus to the Otogar duly arrives and we jump on it. There are plenty of empty seats and even though we don’t have the AntepKart, a local lady helps us with the tickets and we pay her 6TL. The driver is less pleased but we somehow persuade him to keep calm since we have already paid the money.

The rain is really coming down hard and we are pleased no end to reach the Otogar at 625 pm without getting wet. A local guy helps us find the Star Diyarbakir Office, we are pleased to see that it is a big office which most likely means that the bus will be good!

For the first time in Turkey, we see security at the entry and our bags are scanned. Star Diyarbakir bus office guys check the ticket and ask us to wait.

The bus has originated from elsewhere and will come at the exact time. They tell us to keep our bags in their office and we do the same. There are lots of eateries at the Otogar and we ask for Çorba and pilav (bread comes complimentary). It is a basic but satisfying meal and costs 16TL. Using the WC is an additional charge of 1.5TL.

The bus doesn’t come at 715 pm, so the bus office guys take us to pillar number 20 and we wait. It duly comes at 725 pm! The bus looks fancy and clean and is almost full. We thank the office guys and step in. The seats allotted to us are excellent and we are so happy it is a comfortable 2+1 seating bus.

The Star Diyarbakir bus journey turns out to be an unexpected delight. On the road, I see a signboard for Syria and Aleppo is not very far away; I also spot directions for Damascus once in the dark. It all seems so exotic and I wonder if there were no visas, would we just travel anywhere we could?

The service in the bus starts and we are given çay and snacks. I wish all buses exiting from Antep must serve baklava! We thank the service guy and he gives us more snacks to keep and eat for later! The bus doesn’t stop till 11 pm validating our decision of having an early dinner.

Star Diyarbakir, you beauty. We arrive in Antalya at 8 am the next day.

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We woke up early in the morning and reached to the bus stop (at 7 am) which was hardly 5 mins from Newa Home (where we stayed, recommended by a friend). There were 4-5 buses and all of them were headed to either Pokhara or other tourist-friendly destinations. I noticed that 3 of the buses were bound for Pokhara. Our aim was to catch the bus which would leave the earliest.

Also read : A Day in Misty Kurseong

We were 4 of us and knew that since it was off season, there was plenty of scope for bargaining on the bus ticket price. A guy approaches us from the Kathmandu-Pokhara Air Conditioned bus, scheduled to leave at 730 am and quotes a price of 800 per person. After checking that the seats were in the middle and not the rear, we agreed a final price of 600 Nepali Rupees per person.

There were many foreigners in the bus and were rushing the bus to leave on time. The bus guy took us aside and told us there’s still 15 minutes for us to start our journey and that we can eat something if we want. We were hungry and found a small local eatery serving tea, sell roti with chickpeas. The bus leaves on time and is almost full. We hope to reach Pokhara by 130 pm as the distance from Kathmandu to Pokhara is only 180 kms.

It begins drizzling after we cross the sizeable city of Kathmandu and we are stuck in a massive traffic jam around 930 am. We are reminded of India a decade or two ago with the chaos of the traffic jam with no news of its resolution. The progress is painfully slow and instead of reaching Pokhara at 130 pm, we have just reached a lunch place set by the river!

The restaurant-dhaba is an expensive place, with buffet lunch for NPR 300 per person. We are hungry and have no choice but to eat; the spread is excellent though with salad, papad, noodles, dall, rice, and 2 vegetable curries. The sitting area is shaded and we eat well considering it might be our only meal of the day. It is sweltering hot and humid and we are grateful for having chosen an air conditioned bus over the faster but non-ac maxi shared taxi instead.

We are ecstatic when the conductor announces that we have reached Pokhara at about 4 pm. The bus parking is at an almost inaccessible place full of slush, leading to a gaggle of taxi operators quoting astronomical prices. We made our way out of the area and immediately found a taxi for NPR 200 that dropped us close to Phewa Lake. Our aim was to find a reasonably priced place to stay in Pokhara.

I hadn’t done any research and entered a lane full of guest houses and were able to finalise a nice place for 1200 NPR for 2 rooms. It was a family run place with some open spaces; the bathroom was shared but since we there were only 4 of us – it was no problem at all. The young guy at the reception was happy to fill our bottles with filter water and that really saved us a lot of money!

Phewa Lake

After having done all this in less than an hour, there was still plenty of time left for us to stroll to Phewa Lake. There was a temple at the start of the entry point to Phewa Lake I was mightily surprised to see some geisha-like tourists there. It was nice to know that there were no entry charges for the entrance to the lakeside.

It felt like a festive atmosphere as we strolled on the walking path around Phewa Lake. Many local families were out for a picnic with their kids. Colourful boats occupy centerstage in the lake and with the sun setting with the mountain view, made for a pristine sight. I enjoyed clicking photographs of the serene setting.

To the right of the walking path, there were restaurants and cafe’s advertising fast foods, snacks, juices, offers on drinks and beers! Prices of the restaurants were quite high because this was a proper tourist spot. Sunset on Phewa Lake seemed like an especially popular time and there were also some street sellers grilling fresh meat and selling ‘sekuwa’. It felt like a wonderland, full of happy people with smiling faces.

We continued walking on the path and sat whenever we felt the urge to enjoy the views fully. There were 2 people/4 people boats and we saw few tourists enjoying their time boating in the lake. The ticket counter had rates for the same which seemed quite reasonable. Some hawkers were also selling freshly prepared corn on cob. The cafés located farther away look prettier and some of them are playing live music to entice the passersby!

Some of the prettier looking cafés are full of foreigners – they are on the other side of the lake and have calmer sitouts, mellow lights, relaxed music and cheap beer! It is a joyful atmosphere with impromptu guitar and singing sessions. We start having hunger pangs with the lunch feeling like a distant memory now!

The air is still pretty humid and we are thankful for the breeze without which it would have been quite sweaty on the walk. The sunset is stunning and while we debated about sitting at one of cafés and enjoying beer (150 NPR for San Miguel beer), we ended up being indecisive and walked to the main street before it got dark. Many guest houses and hostels for backpackers. Advertised food joints serving different variety of food; Tibetan, Vietnamese, Chinese, European.

Free-wifi is advertised prominently; it reminds me of backpacker friendly tourist destinations in India many years ago where wifi is a popular way of enticing international tourists. We come across a stunningly beautiful restaurant by the name of Byanjan – done up in gorgeous blue and white colours but it turns out to be super expensive when we check the menu! We sit on the upper floor of a nearby restaurant and sip draught Sherpa beer and eat excellent Margarita Pizza.

The staff recommends an authentic Nepali restaurant for dinner nearby, one Fewa Thakali Bhanchha Ghar. We enter the eatery and are pleasantly surprised to see it is fully occupied with local families. The interior sitting space is in a traditional style, walls are in maroon and white with low tables and cushions laid out on the floor. We find a solitary empty table on the roof and grab the same!

The food turns out to be excellent; served in brass plates. We were recommended momos made with buckwheat and a thali which was full of greens that had a unique taste. The prices are reasonable too for the excellent and authentic variety of food and the Thali costs us NPR 300. We thank the staff and go walking on the streets of Pokhara.

There are cyclewallahs as fruit sellers roaming on a cycle with a juicer and offering fruits like pineapples, avocados, mangoes, banana, oranges etc like a mobile fruit market on wheels! Its fun to see them stop wherever they see foreign tourists. Pokhara is a busy market with many souvenir shops. We enter a shop selling Tibetan singing bowls, and it has a wide and staggering variety. The singing bowls make a serene and calming sound but the handmade ones are priced very high (medium sized ones at NPR 1500) and we choose not to buy anything for the moment.

We walk back to our guest house and are relieved that the weather has turned cooler with the recent rain. It is decided to head to Begnas Tal next morning as my friends Jai & Prerita are staying there and highly recommend the area. Sleep comes in no time with the tiredness of the bus ride!

I had spotted the bus from Pokhara to Begnas Tal and found that the starting point of the same was from Phewa Lake itself! So, we woke up in the morning, had chai and an early breakfast and got ready quickly to leave in the bus bound for Begnas Tal. The ticket is only 60 NPR per person and we are the only 4 people in the bus when it starts from Phewa Lake! It is a comfortable bus and will take around an hour for the 25 odd kilometre distance to Begnas Tal.

We call Jai after the bus drops us in Begnas Tal. He explains the directions to get to a place called Sanu Lake on D Water. A local street festival is going on in Begnas Tal, we are delighted to see the dances and the ladies all dressed for the occasion. We keep walking across Begnas Tal lake, cross a small hillock and arrive at the beautifully located Sanu Lake on D Water.

Sanu Lake on D Water in Lekhnath

It is a pristine scene, with not a soul around and calm, placid waters of the lake. There are blue and yellow coloured boats in the water and with the surrounding green hills look very pretty. We meet with Sanu and check the rooms and agree on the price. It is a gorgeously located guest house with rustic tables set in an open sit-out very close to the lake.

Sanu tells us that some of the rooms are blessed with views of the Himalayan peaks when the weather is clear. Kayaking is also possible in the lake and Jai has already told me about the fantastic swimming experiences possible here. Relaxed opera music is being played and reflections of the nearby mountains in the water look enchanting. We fix the prices with Sanu @800 NPR per room including breakfast.

We only plan to stay for a night here as Jai & Prerita are going to be moving to a higher area in Pokhara itself and we plan to see that region too! We walk out and spot some nicely located tiny eateries near the lake, it is a surreal setting for sure. Some of the walls at Sanu Lake on D Water are painted with graffiti and they also have life jackets available for for swimmers. Jai calls and asks us to come to the village where a festival is being held in the fields!

The rice fields are submerged in water and youngsters are happily singing and dancing in the muddy water over some funny looking competitions! Its very humid and we find a shaded corner to protect ourselves in the harsh sun. Locals are watching the proceedings and it is an especially funny scene to see foreigners rolling in the mud too!

I decide to try a bread at a small bakery and it turns out to be delicious! Jai & Prerita take us to a home run eatery near Sanu Lake on D Water. We order thalis and the family sets about the task of making everything fresh. Food takes a lot of time to appear but is well worth the wait when it does. Rice, fried potatoes, dall, vegetable, curd, chutney and salad and the puri sabji is excellent too.

It is the World Cup 2019 and today is England vs India; Jai leads us to an open air space with an expansive view of Begnas Tal and a television screen. We happily drink Nepali beer (300 NPR per bottle) like Gorkha and Everest while playing UNO. Jai is mostly interested in watching cricket and all of us take turns with the match too! It is a supremely serene setting. We go back in the evening after an early dinner of chowmein at a small eatery nearby because the food at Sanu is quite expensive!

We watch India losing the cricket match under the stars on the roof with Jai’s VPN connection! There is no electricity for a few hours and it is blissful to enjoy the stars overhead. We all go for a short swim in the lake in the darkness when Jai insists it is an unbelievable experience!

Click to view slideshow.

It is a comfortable sleep with the breeze blowing and next morning we enjoy the tea and breakfast sitting by the lake. The sun is out and we jump in the water to enjoy the blissfully cool lake! Tranquil setting with live guitar playing, a traveller is playing and singing. Breakfast is roti, potatoes, egg bhurji and fruits.

We check out and Sanu’s true colours are revealed when Jai & Prerita try to settle their bill! He has apparently charged them for beers that they never had. We have been charged princely prices for bananas and fat rotis that he has served in the name of breakfast which he had included in the prices earlier! We somehow end the matter without a fight and pay up (nodding to ourselves that we had correctly judged Sanu’s cunning character but had still let him work his charms on us.)

Dinesh House Deorali & Robin’s Nest Deorali

We walk to the market in Begnas Tal and book 2 small Maruti Altos to drop us to Deorali area, an uphill climb of 3 kms. Pay 150 NPR each cab, very reasonable. We get down close to a temple and continue walking to reach Dinesh House (where Jai’s room is booked for 2 weeks!). There are no spare rooms at Dinesh House and we check out the nearby Robin’s Nest. The woman in charge there shows us the rooms and even though they are not very well ventilated, the weather is mild and we agree on a price of INR 600 per room including breakfast.

It is a relaxed evening and we play UNO in Jai’s spacious room with a balcony at Dinesh House. Prerita orders our thalis too at their in-house kitchen. We go to the roof to catch the sunset amid the surreal evening skies. We enjoy a few chilled beers in the evening as the clouds turn stormy and bring rain in the night. We have an excellent dinner at Dinesh House, thanks to Jai & Prerita.

We come back to Robin’s Nest and it starts pouring down as soon as we are in our rooms! The electricity goes with the sky thundering intermittently and it continues raining for a good two hours. We sleep well and wake up to the the best sight of our trip (or life?!)

The skies have cleared and the majestic Annapurna range is visible from our balcony. Our guest house, Robin’s Nest is perfectly located for this view and we lounge around on the hammock and take in the surreal sight of 8000 metre peaks in clear view! Jai and Prerita also join us and tell us that we are very lucky to see this sight in the monsoon month of July. We enjoy the show for an hour or so until the clouds decide to come back.

After breakfast, we have a shower and decide to walk around the area. It has progressed into a hot day with the sun out in full force. We visit the nearby Deorali temple and are stunned with the majestic wood carvings. The entrance to the temples in Nepal is very ornate and artistic. I am especially glad to come across a non-touristy local temple in a real village.

It is afternoon time and we are all hungry with all the aimless walking around in the humidity. We come across a small eatery run by a lady and ask her if she can make noodles with mint chutney and vegetables? She says it will take time as everything will be freshly made. We are pleased with the answer and decide to wait and help her in making it! The noodles take around 45 minutes to make and turn out to be the most delicious noodles of our entire Nepal trip.

We go back happily to Deorali and witness the cloudy skies in the evening with the beautiful landscape and the views of Begnas Tal lake. It is time for another round of UNO and dinner at Dinesh House. It rains in the evening making the proceedings cooler. The food is delicious again and we also watch another World Cup cricket match in progress. We decide to drop all plans for Muktinath or hiking in the Pokhara region and plan to get to Kathmandu next day(Bhaktapur.)

The cloud cover is heavy in the morning and the mountains are not clearly visible. We have tea and breakfast with the greenery glistening in the brief period of sunshine. In an hour or so, when the clouds part a gap in the clouds reveals a dazzling array of peaks! It is like a goodbye photograph from Pokhara as we are going to leave in some time.

We all leave for Pokhara first for a pizza treat (losers in the UNO game) and decide on Roadhouse Café as the venue. See some souvenir shops selling Shaligrams. The pizza is ok-ok and we eat cake and pastries for dessert at another nearby place. Say goodbye to Jai and Prerita and thank them for a lovely time!

We decide to go by shared maxi cab while going back. We are quoted 600 NPR per seat but the intense competition between the cabs works and we get into a maxi cab for 400 NPR per person! They are faster than a bus but non-aircontioned. Thankfully the weather is good today and we have reasonable space in the maxi cab!

We reach Kathmandu at around 8 pm.

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Check : On the Black Sea Coast of Turkey – 2 Days in Trabzon

When the bus starts moving again, the landscape seems a lot similar to Ladakh in the winters. We are amidst mountains, it is almost barren with a thin sheet of snow on the ground, bare poplar trees standing tall, shivering in the still atmosphere. The bus route changes after Erzurum and doesn’t pass through the (even) colder town of Kars!

It is time to go back to sleep again. We wake up to an incredibly beautiful palette of sunrise colours on Lake Van. There are small villages on the banks of the lake with primitive looking homes – smoke billowing out of their chimneys reminds me yet again of remote regions in the Indian Himalayas. The last 50 odd kilometres of our journey are on the shores of Lake Van and we reach the tiny Van Otogar at around 8 am.

Van is a located near the Iranian border, with a majority of Kurdish population. It is known for its massive lake (Lake Van), its white cats with mismatched blue and green eyes, and hearty all-day breakfasts.

The sun rises very late in these parts in the winter months and it is barely daylight at the Otogar. Van welcomes us to a very cold and cloudy morning and we are relieved to see a complimentary drop(free servis) by a mini-bus being lined up for the Metro Turizm bus (the only silver lining of this bus company!). Van Otogar is located a fair distance away from Van City Centre and we shiver and get into the mini-bus with almost no clue of where we want to go!

The driver is a very young chap; when only 3-4 of us are left in the bus – he asks us where we want to go? We remember the only place I’ve researched about – ‘Van Backpackers Hostel’ and ask him to put this address in his google maps. I had kept this as a landmark in my mind and he is extremely helpful to make sure he drops us to the exact place even though it is very far for him. We thank him profusely and get down to the teeth chattering cold of Van!

Climb 3 floors of Van Backpacker’s hostel, looks like a nice and lively place. Multiple dormitories. Meet a tourist from Hong Kong at the reception. Reception guy is helpful and informs us that the only double room is with a shared bathroom. The price quoted is around 100 TL and it will be available after 2 hours as it is yet to be cleaned. We are not keen on staying in a dormitory and ask the Van Backpacker’s Hostel guy for other hotels nearby with an attached bathroom.

He says there are other hotels nearby in the market area too which isn’t too far from here. We thank and tell him we might come back if we don’t manage to find a nice place! We walk out on the street and are queried by a guy who asks us in broken English if we are looking for breakfast or a place to stay?

He is the owner, Nevzet of a Kahvalti (breakfast) restaurant, adjacent to Van Backpacker’s Hostel. He takes us to one ‘Hotel Imperial’ which is bang opposite to his Kahvalti restaurant. It is a huge multi-storey building made of glass and looks like an executive business class hotel. If not for Nevzet we would never have gone inside to check, simply assuming it to be an expensive hotel.

At the reception, there is a man by the name of Hassan. We introduce ourselves as being from Hindistan (India) and tell him to show us an ucuz (cheap) room. He also speaks and understands broken english and shows us a room on the middle floor. It is a huge room with a hall, 2 bathrooms and a massive bedroom bathed in sunshine from all 3 sides!

The hall has a sitting area with sofa sets and television while the bedroom has a centre table with stools as well. There are framed views of the snow clad mountains from the bedroom and the warmth of the sunshine means we are already sold on the room. It is total off season in Van and the price quoted is 140 TL. Hassan tells that the usual price is 180 TL and that 140 TL is the best he can do. We plead with him along with Nevzet and finalise 120 TL for the room!

The room and hotel looks very comfortable and warm even though its freezing cold outside with a stiff breeze blowing. Unexpected delight when over a thank you conversation, Hassan tells us that breakfast is served on the top floor in the restaurant area – we understand kahvalti (breakfast is included in this price!) Maybe if we had known this earlier, we might not even have tried to bargain on the offered 140 TL price!

Hassan gives us filter water glasses and makes us feel even more happier as water can get expensive in Turkey. We promise Nevzet to quickly come for breakfast to his Kahvalti and thank him for the help!

Go to the room, relax for some time and head out at around 930 am. Nevzet welcomes us for breakfast. Lavas bread, otlu peynir, peynir, cheese, eggs, and the undisputed winner – bal kaymak and served with çay. Nevzet’s café is quite cute with 2-3 tables and his son is also sitting there. We are quoted around 20 TL for the breakfast spread. We ask for another helping of the bal kaymak and another round of tea (tea is complimentary everywhere).

Final bill is 30 TL (Bal Kaymak is expensive, as we would realise later in Istanbul when a meagre helping is charged at 20 TL in one of the well known restaurants!). Nevzet reminds us that Van is meshur for its Kahvalti. Thank Nevzet for the super breakfast and go out walking on the street to find a ticket booking office to book a bus to Gaziantep for the next day. 

Spot Kamil Koç bus office on the main road and are pleasantly surprised to notice a tandoor bukhari in the office. Sadly Kamil Koç buses don’t operate on the Van to Gaziantep route. The staff there suggests going the Metro office nearby which is located just across the road. We are not happy at all with Metro’s service to Van and the timing of the Van to Gaziantep bus is quite inconvenient at 1730 hours which means it is likely to reach Gaziantep at 3-4 in the early hours of the morning which doesn’t suit us at all.

So we just find the ticket prices (140TL) and go to other bus offices nearby – Best Van Turizm and Vangölu. Haven’t heard of Best Van Turizm before and finally get tickets from a different office of Vangölu for 10 TL indirim – 130 TL for 1900 hrs 2+2 bus next day. Pick up from the booking office will be at 1800 hrs that will save us the hassle of trying to figure how to go to the Van otogar. 

Spot a cute coffee shop nearby with a dry-fruit shop in the lower portion. The flooring is done with gorgeous tiles and balcony. We go back to the hotel, feeling sleepy now that our basic needs have been taken care of. Relax for some time and then have a shower. Pleased when warm water comes from the shower after an eternity of waiting! Marvel at the mountains from our room and use the hotel wifi for checking emails, internet and social media. Also do some research about Van and Akdamar Island.

A little bit of sun is out now. We go walking on the street, the shops are now all open. Spot a small shop of souvenirs across the street, locally made bags and other crafts. Iranian designs, perhaps. Cute yellow citybuses in Van are run by the local transport corporation. We roam around Van market, and are astonished to see the variety of local breads at the many bakeries.

Try a dish Lahmacun (pronounced Lahmajoon) at one of the restaurants in the market, for only 3.5 TL. Lahmacun is baked like a fresh pizza and is very tasty, served with complimentary salad. The staff is very happy to see tourists from Hindistan in Van, thank them for the tasty food and pay. Some bakeries there have like 8-9 varieties of breads for sale. Some people think we are from Iran but everyone is excited to know we are from India! Everyone loves bollywood movies!! 

While on our walk we also cross the cheese market in Van and the famous Kahvalti Sokak (breakfast street). Spot dry fruit sellers sell raisins and dates on carts in the streets. Delicious variety and very reasonable prices as compared to India. We try the freshly roasted chestnuts – kestane, they turn out to be yummy. We decide to to enquire about the dolmus that goes to the ferry point on the way to Akdamar Island on Lake Van.

Locals have suggested us to ask for Gevas ferry point. Lake Van is located at 1750m and is ringed with 3000m and 4000m peaks visible in the far distance. Akdamar Island on Lake Van has a 10th Century Armenian Church. Old Armenian proverb – ‘Van in this world, paradise in the next.’ 

We are lucky to find a hotel on the way to the dolmus point for a washroom break. I am tired with the long walk today and with the confusion as no one seems to know where the dolmus runs from. Ask a young guy while crossing the street what to see in Van and he suggests Van Kaleici, I remember the same from my research but had somehow forgotten it now!

So we look for a dolmus to go to the Kaleici right away and just find out about the dolmus for Akdamar Island for the next day. It is around 2 pm now. Randomly, an uncle speaks to us; he used to be a tour guide 10 years ago and walks with us to the dolmus point. He also points us to a beautiful mosque (Cami) on the way and bal (honey) sellers. Spot the dolmus, it is about to leave! The cost is 3 TL per person and it will drop us very close to Van Kaleici. Thank the uncle and take his leave  

It is a very short ride, around 4 kms from Van Market City Centre, nice ride with views of the city. We are dropped at the intersection beneath the castle. Van Castle towers above us; the path starts from an Old mosque (cami), where there is a dirt path from the barbed wire. The path is slippery with a lot of sticky mud.

There is a family with kids who ask me to come and they will hold my hands. We dont have proper sports shoes, so we decide to take it slow with the tricky climb. Snow clad mountains are visible along-with views of Lake Van as the weather has cleared a bit. See ancient script on huge stones at Van Kaleici, looks similar to Greek language. We don’t even attempt to climb all the way to the walls of the castle because there is no marked trail and our footwear isn’t meant for the terrain.

We walk around the Kaleici (castle) and enjoy the surreal views. There are many dogs barking in the distance and not many human beings around. Only a few youngsters can be seen on one side of the mosque. So we decide to walk back on the slippery path and come back on the road.

We somehow manage to cross the barbed wire and start walking on the lookout for a dolmus going back to the city. While on the way to Van Kaleici, we had seen a recommended restaurant Asiyan Ev Yemeklari so we decide to head there itself for an early dinner, around 5 pm.

As we start walking towards Van Market, a beautiful park full of autumn colours comes to notice. There is an Iranian family dancing, chilling and celebrating with vodka and cake! They invite us to join them – from afar, hearing Hindistani language!

We enter the park and walk towards them, and are welcomed with hugs! One of them knows some old hindi songs so we sing and break into a swaying dance, while they invite us to Tehran. They have driven from Iran for a holiday to celebrate the birthday. We have a piece of cake and vodka, and are invited for party in the night in Van. We politely thank them and take our leave. Iranians seem to be very friendly and warm hearted people! 

As we get back to the road, we are lucky to get a ride from an old uncle! He drops us to Asiyan Ev Yemeklari restaurant. His car is warm and comfortable, as the weather outside has got colder when the sun goes down. The restaurant is empty and we are the only customers as it is neither time for lunch or dinner!

There is hardly any vegetarian dish on the menu. We have already used the WC and now are morally bound to order çorba, pilav. The staff also served salad and we assume its complimentary. The food is tasty, and is cooked in home style (yemeklari and lokantasis across Turkey are known for their home style food).

We are surprised to be charged for the salad when the bill comes. We tell the owner they must inform before serving to a customer to avoid any confusion; pay the bill and start walking to our hotel on Uzun Sokak Street. We stop at a couple of dry fruit shops (tasted pista and other dry fruits from different countries), prices are very competitive and reasonable and the staff is friendly. When we come across a park just as it is about to be dark, we sit and chill for a bit in the nice and cool weather! 

When we feel lost on the way to Uzun Sokak, we ask for directions from the locals. Even when we find the Imperial hotel, by a stroke of luck we end up walking till the end of the long street thinking I had seen a kilim shop there! There is an Aishwarya Rai advertisement on a jewellery shop shutter in Van Market.

We get back to the hotel at around 8 pm in a very tired condition. Its finally time to relax, write the diary, sip a glass of red wine (leftover from Trabzon), and go to sleep early. From our room we can see the crowd thinning in the shopping area. The central heating in the room starts automatically at around 10 pm. Therefore, the temperature is very comfortable for sleeping with the cozy and warm quilt. 

We wake up feeling refreshed after an amazing night’s sleep. We head for breakfast to the restaurant on the 10th floor rooftop and are happy to see a huge breakfast platter. I count around 15 dishes on the spread with multiple varieties of cheese, breads, jams, honey, butter, helva, olives and Turkish tea. Enjoy a leisurely breakfast sitting on the royal sofa sets with a stunning view of the mountains.

After another round of çay, we go back to the room and have a relaxed bath, pack and leave our bags at the reception. Start walking towards the dolmus point for going to Akdamar island. We leave at around 10 am and going to Akdamar Island is our only goal for the day, our bus for Gaziantep is at 7 pm so we have the entire day to explore! 

We reach the dolmus point, driver waits for the mini-bus to become full. It is a beautiful day, we drive slowly through the streets, and reach the highway as it runs along Lake Van. The dolmus drops us at Edremit, informing us that the ferry to Akdamar island goes from Edremit. We get down and realise (after asking multiple people), with the limited information due to language hassles that ferries dont ply for Akdamar Island from Edremit in winter. It is closed (kapali).

As per my earlier research too, we are supposed to catch a ferry from the Gevas ferry point which is round 35 kms from Edremit. Now we are in a fix in this beautiful location on the shores of Lake Van! So we roam around, trying to ask locals about how to get to Gevas; enjoying this beautiful location and views of the lake. Meet a local couple and they confirm that getting to Gevas ferry point is the right idea for going to Akdamar. I really want to pee and try to find a free WC; find one and relieve myself.

Someone tells us we can go to Gevas ferry point by bus. So we stand on the road itself and wait for a bus; but no bus comes even after 10-15 minutes of waiting. 

As a last resort, we think of hitching a ride by asking locals who are headed in the same direction. A SUV stops, a family of old uncle and aunty and their kid heading to Bitlis on the same road. We converse in broken english, they ask us to sit. We greet them saying Hindistan Hindistan!

We are a little apprehensive and so are they! Van is quite close to the Iran-Iraq border and has a strict military presence. We had read some unpleasant stories and were quite scared at one point of time when the uncle asked if we were from Afghanistan, we would be put in jail and something like that! 

When the ice between us breaks, the ride becomes fun as all of us relax. We give them 2 masala chai packets and tell them how to make it! We indicate in sign language, greet namaste and thank them before getting down at a petrol station very close to the ferry point and walk to Gevas Ferry point from there. 

It is a gorgeous sight of blue Lake Van and Akdamar Island with the church visible from afar. At the ferry point, only 1 lady sitting – she also wants to go to Akdamar island. There are a lot of boats and ferries anchored here but we can only find 1 captain of a ferry, he declares that if there are 10 people in total he is happy to go. The return price is 20 TL per person; or we could club and give 200TL in total. We decide to wait, it is already 1130 am – 12 noon. 

The church looks very pretty and enigmatic from afar. We decide to walk around the lighthouse, sit on the rocks and enjoy the sights. It is highly unlikely that the ferry would ply today with almost no chance of 10 people! One guy sold balik (fish) at a tiny stall close to the ferry place and a few cars would stop every once in a while.

The sun also went behind the clouds after a bit and the lady goes as well, after having waited there for long. After 30 odd minutes, we also decide to head back as the wind has picked up and try as much as we could, it is not possible that we enter the Armenian church on Akdamar island without crossing the water of Lake Van! 

We walk across the road on a bridge and decide to take a ride in a bus/dolmus back to Van and not take a lift. It just seemed too troublesome in case the language issues got us in trouble! There is a restaurant across the road but it is closed too for the winter. So we wait on a turn on the road and notice that the captain of the ferry has also given up and wants to head back to his home! It must be a dreary time for him; to spend money to come to the ferry point and then go back without making a trip. Perhaps the views of Lake Van are a solace!

We try and try but no buses stop, we have no idea why. Two cars stop; 2 guys in the first car, heading to Van Merkez itself but we decline their offer. I feel bad about refusing the kindness on offer but don’t want to take a chance. The distance is 45-50 kms to Van market and it might perhaps be the first time I have ever said no to a lift!

After waiting for more than 30 minutes, finally a dolmus comes. It doesn’t stop! After some more time, get into another dolmus heading to Gevas merkez. We first have to stand for a bit because there is no space to sit! 

Click to view slideshow.

The dolmus heads to Gevas market where we change into another dolmus to reach Van. To our great disappointment, we are dropped on the main highway itself. It has cost us around 9-10 TL per person. Little expensive but it’s ok sometimes! We walk all the way to Van Market and are trying to find Damak Kahvalti Salonu. We have been recommended this place as having the best breakfast in Van by the locals. 

It is already nearing 3 pm, we manage to find Damak Kahvalti Salonu on Bahcivan area after walking more than 2-3 kms. Damak is about to close as breakfast time is over (in the winter). The owner is very kind though when he hears our story of us leaving tonight for Gaziantep and asks his staff to lay out 1 table for us. He doesn’t want us to leave Van without having eaten the real breakfast of Van here! 

We are welcomed to the first floor and we order 1 breakfast among the 2 of us that is recommended to us. It costs approx. 35 TL. There are different types of cheese, and savouries, and menemen. We have a wonderful time interacting with the knowledgeable guy.

He tells us we should be back to Van for breakfast in the summer when the number of dishes is so many that they hardly have space on the table. He also shows photographs and guiness book world record on the wall. After finishing the breakfast by around 330 pm, we have 2 Turkish çay each to cap a fine experience. Thank him for a wonderful spread and his kindness! 

Walk back to the area near our hotel. The souvenir bag shop opposite to the hotel beckons to us. I had liked one round bag yesterday, which was quoted at 40 TL. End up buying it for 25 TL, only 1. I think of buying more but don’t give in to temptation. Nice finish and cute product. Later on the trip, in Izmir a shopkeeper from Van offers us 400 TL for the same bag! 

We are told a little bit about the history of Van that most locals seem to conveniently forget. The original, old and historic town of Van was entirely destroyed in 1915-16 and the present day modern Van city is located around 3 kms from old Van and was built from scratch. So, in essence there is no traditional Kurdish architecture in Van. The cities of Sanliurfa, Diyarbakir, Mardin and Bitlis were mentioned repeatedly by the locals as the places we should visit to really dig into the Kurdish culture and architecture. 

We head back to Imperial Hotel, go to the top floor area and sit for a while. Pick our backpacks from the reception and walk to the Vangolu office at around 5 pm. Get wifi connectivity at Vangölu office and çay from the kettle! The pick-up van comes in the dark at about 615 pm. We are dropped to Van Otogar. 

As soon as we reach the Otogar, passport check by bus officials. Meet 2-3 Bangladeshis Nationals at the Otogar. Speak in Hindi! Boarded the Vangolu bus to Kahramanmaras, not very comfortable as it is 2+2 seating bus. Little space to stretch the feet. Wonder if we could have taken the Best Van Turizm bus from Van to Gaziantep bus that was 2+1.

Only tea and coffee served, no snacks. Passport check by Jandarma 3 times. Tight military security on the entire route. Bad road, couldn’t sleep even though we were tired. Our bus driver keeps smoking all the time! We are on the Diyarbakir – Sanliurfa bus route. So Iran, Iraq and Syria border all close to the Van to Gaziantep route. 

The famed Van breakfast is also available in Istanbul at – Van Kahvalti Evi, Cihangir, Beyoglu. 

A breakfast in Van usually comprises of these dishes :

Peynir – cheese, otlu peynir – cheese with herbs, beyaz peynir – yellow cheese, Bal Kaymak – clotted cream served with honey, tereyagi – butter, zeytin – olives, lavas – bread, yumurta – fried eggs, Domates & salatalık – tomatoes & cucumber, murtuga – bread coated in egg and flour and lightly fried in butter, Kavuk – ground wheat with black pepper and sugar slowly cooked together in butter and pekmez-fruit molasses, tahin – tahini, recel – jam, çay – Turkish tea.

Recommended places to eat breakfast in Van are : Damak Kahvalti Salonu and Sütçü Kenan Kahvaltı Salonu. 

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We start walking in the direction as indicated on google maps. Little tired as its been more than 30 odd hours since we have been on the road (Left for the Delhi airport at 1 am last night) and the cold wind of Trabzon doesn’t help matters either. The sun finally comes in our direction as we spot 2 Lokantasis (local eateries) full of people with the sun streaming through the windows giving it a feel of real warmth.

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Enter inside the second lokantasi and are lucky that a table has just become available. There is no menu as such and we ask for vegetarian options, the owner is very helpful and kind and announces to the entire restaurant when we greet him saying we are from Hindistan! He asks us to go to the kitchen and order anything that we like.

Çorba – lentil soup (6 TL per bowl). He orders 2 different types of vegetarian Çorba for us. It is served in huge bowls and is super tasty. Many varieties of freshly baked breads are laid out in a bowl in front of us. We eat to our heart’s content. The lentil soup tastes amazing in the cold weather. We also realise it is a staple for the Turks in the winter months as almost everyone else in the restaurant is having some version of çorba only.

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Delicious çay (tea) is served after we are done with eating. The owner doesn’t take money even after we try our best. Thank him graciously for the tasty food and greet everyone in the Lokantasi before leaving.

We continue on our walk to the hotel / guest house in Esentepe Area. Feel much better now with food in our bellies. As we reach close to the Tahir Aga Konagi Guest House, we are pleasantly surprised by the aroma of freshly baked bread. Fresh simit from the oven at a small bakery. Tasty and warm, crispy and yummy for only 1 TL per piece.

Tahir Aga Konagi Guest House in Trabzon

Tahir Aga Konagi is an old family run boutique homestay established in 1890. It is a beautiful heritage building with antiques and other knick-knacks kept as decoration in the common area. We enter the building and ask for the price of a double room at the reception. Staff shows us a room on the top floor, it is bathed in sunshine and has a view of the gorgeous alfresco sitting area. Room is a bit small but comfortable and has all the facilities we need, and is centrally heated as well.

Other rooms at Tahir Aga Konagi are bigger but are located on the other side and therefore even colder. We have already mentioned at the reception that we could like a ucuz (cheap) room! Price quoted 180 TL. We settle for 150 TL including kahvalti (breakfast) that is served in the common area near the reception. Effectively we check-in  at around 930 am.

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From the main road we can see the Black Sea with snowy mountains in the far distance! Super surprised to see this sight. We chose Tahir Aga Konagi Guest House as it is conveniently located in Trabzon and is not very far from the Otogar. Most of the other options were located on the Black Sea Coast, were away from the town and would have required a mode of transport for us to roam around all the time.

Sleep for 2 odd hours. Centrally heated room, very cosy and fluffy bed and quilt. Have a shower after waking up. Feel nice and fresh after the relaxed sleep. Love the warm water in the taps that comes effortlessly in hotels everywhere across Turkey. After the sleep, when we go to the reception – Staff suggests walking in the opposite direction to the Meydan.

The most important sight in Trabzon – Sumela monastery (built in 386 AD) is closed for restoration. We are sad but happy to know this fact in advance, otherwise Sumela Monastery is at least 1 hour away from Trabzon and would have created a lot of trouble for us to go and find it closed.

As we start walking on the road, we spot autumn colours on the road itself, leaves are in an crimson-orange colour. Head to Uzun Sokak street. Randomly discover the popular Trabzon Pide on seeing a crowd gathered at Ertugrul Pide. Trabzon is well known across Turkey for Ekmek (corn bread) that looks like a huge half football.

Walk inside Ertugrul Pide and get peynir pide recommended. Chef making fresh pide in the stone oven as per the orders. Love the aroma! Upstairs sitting area, 15TL for a freshly baked peynirli pide. So so tasty, made with cheese and butter. Many varieties of pide all freshly made on order, ranging from 15 to 25 TL. Locals having 1 pide each with extra butter given separately and eating with gusto. As it is nearly lunch time, a lot of pide are getting packed as well. Hectic scenario, love it!

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Mostly male customers in the entire seating area, very surprised to notice that. A woman serving tea and taking orders in the restaurant. An English speaking Turkish man on the next table tells us the right way of eating the pide is while sipping chai. Order çay too! For a change, çay is not complimentary and is charged at some 2 TL for a big cup. Enjoy the conversation with him, finish the pide, use the free WC and head out for walks in Trabzon.

Kestane (roasted chestnuts) on the street, 5 TL for 100 grams. Half price of what we get in Istanbul and the quality is even better! We are on Uzun Sokak street which is like a shopping street. Since it is our 1st destination in Turkey, check sim card shops TurkCell, Turk Telekom etc but see that the cost is coming to more than 250 TL for 18 days. Sim card cost 110 TL. Decide to not buy any sim card and rely on freely available wifi.

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Go to Koton store on Uzun Sokak Street. Buy 1 sweat shirt for 50 TL. Have carried minimal clothes from India and figure that the space of oranges can be used for keeping clothes. Meet cool sales people at a nearby cosmetic shop. Bollywood and Hindi movies, they love it! Indirim on Clinique products if the bill is over 300 TL, 100 TL indirim (discount). Great offer. They understand and speak perfect English so I show them my research about Trabzon.

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They recommend eateries etc and confirm that Sumela monastery is definitely closed and that it didn’t make sense for us to go there. Walk around the Uzun Sokak Street, very lively and fashionable maybe because of Christmas approaching. Almost every shop has an indirim sign.

Beton Helva – Dondurma (milk flavour recommended) 2.5 TL, Helva Classic (10TL) & Turk Kahvesi (7TL). Seating upstairs in a nicely designed café space. Cute cup and tray with table. Beautiful setting and some old ladies also eating helva. Good dondurma for the price, helva is ok because the quantity is a lot and the server has given us only one flavour although we had asked for a mix of the 5-6 different flavours on offer. Seemed like a mix of tahini and almond flavour, and tasted similar to soan papdi in India at Haldirams.

Could only finish half the helva (funnily enough ate the last bite of it in Delhi after coming back) as it was tucked away in some corner of the day pack and we thought it was over! Saw big sale indirim signboard at LC Waikiki, locals going crazy. Turkey has excellent quality fashionable clothes at very reasonable prices and from our past visit we were very happy with the clothes brought at LC Waikiki.

In an inexplicable turn of events, we went crazy and shopped for 2 hours! We don’t even realise when it is already evening! Buy 7 items and get a tax free bill that would enable to get us around 4-5 percent return at the airport. Dark when we get out of the LC Waikiki store.

Surprised at our own behaviour of buying things to carry back to India from the first city that we visit on this 18 day Turkey trip. Decide to be a bit more practical from now on. The collection at stores in Trabzon is really good though and we are happy to buy these clothes at reasonable prices.

Ask locals for recommendation on where to eat? Directed to CemilUsta, best eatery in the entire Meydan area and has a convenient location too. Interior seating and outdoor seating as well. Bit of a fine dine place, 2-3 floors, meshur, right in market centre. Eat Akçaabat Kebap or kofte (famous locally) and salad. Bit expensive but still reasonable compared to a fine dine in Istanbul or any other bigger city.

The server is a happy and polite gentleman, welcomes us when we tell we are from Hindistan. Rice and bread comes complimentary. Very very happy with the food. Tasty and quantity also excellent. Around 25-30 TL total bill. The staff doesn’t ask for complimentary çay, and we also forget!

Walk back to the hotel, glad at our choice of Tahir Aga Konagi Guest House. Around 10 minute walk. Remember our way from the morning, even though the area is almost dark now with no crowds. Cold breeze blowing. Quite tired, long day for sure. Go to the open air garden at the Guest House to chill for a bit. Nice lights and setting. Magic of small heritage places to stay.

The Guest House is a family run sort of place with 2-3 staff. Autumn leaves are blowing and the aroma of wood being burnt is present since the area is a residential colony. Fill our water bottles from the filter and go back to our room. Write diary entry for the day and sleep like little babies. Warm and cozy, heated room. So we keep a small part of the window open so that it doesn’t become too hot.

Wake up to a warm sunny day after a fabulous sleep. Have tea and coffee in the room from the mixes provided. Another point about even the simplest hotels in Turkey is that tea, coffee, kettle and cups are always provided in the room. Also, usually there will be a separate kettle for Turkish tea in the reception area from where you can take your fill of çay throughout the day.

Go for breakfast in common area. Have olives, oranges, eggs, varieties of jam, breads, choco hazelnut, çay and Turkish coffee as well. If there were more guests, the breakfast spread would have been larger. We head to the open air area and just chill for a bit. Have a bath, pack, check out from the room and leave our bags at the hotel to be picked up in the evening. Our plan is to catch a bus to Van (around 8-9 pm).

Walk to Dolmus point near Meydan to ask about the shared taxi to Aya Sofya Muzesi and spot the Metro Turizm bus company office. Kamil Koc, Ulusoy and other bus companies etc don’t run buses to Van. So Metro bus seems like the only choice that we have. They have a 2+1 bus at 9 pm and seats are available. 150TL is the quoted price, and we settle for 140TL – pick-up is free from the booking office to the Otogar. So that saves us a fair bit of walking with our backpacks and we can conveniently have dinner before leaving.

Dolmus 2.5 TL for Aya Sofya Muzesi, dropped at the right place near crossroad of Cami (mosque). Dolmus passes through beautiful parks, autumn colour leaves, stunning views of the black sea on a clear sunny day. Spot a local fruit and vegetable market on the way to Aya Sofya Muzesi.

Love checking and tasting the excellent quality fresh vegetables and fruits, honey, sirke, dry fruit sellers, breads etc from many regions. Buy dry anjeer (10TL for 200 grams) – huge size and very tasty, shehtoot (mulberry) 4.20 TL(for 200 gram box), and walnuts (7TL for 100 grams) from 1-2 local vendors.

Buy Oranges 1kg for 2 TL. Taste multiple dry fruits. Finally after our perusal of the market is over, head to Aya Sofya Muzesi. 13th Century and very historic. Shut due to restoration. Little disappointed.

Aya Sofya Müzesi – Aya Sofya Müzesi (Museum) is the most important historical building in Trabzon. It was a former Greek Orthodox church that dates back to the 13th century and was converted to a mosque in 1584. It is located close to the Black Sea, and is considered a beautiful example of Byzantine architecture.

Not sure what to do, so sit and enjoy the views of the exterior from the museum cafe in the outdoors. Blue tiles on the walls and views of the Black Sea, autumn colours, sunshine and breeze, Turkish çay. Also free WC. Start walking back. Glad we spent some time browsing through the products at the local street market.

See a Tekel (alcohol) shop and buy dry red wine bottle for 35 TL (quoted 40 TL for the same), old uncle gives. Notice that the prices for wine in Turkey have increased around 8-10 TL per bottle since the last trip in 2018. Ask for dolmus point for Uzun Sokak street. It is around 1230 pm and since it is the only address we know – makes sense to head there itself and enjoy lunch at another recommended place. Find dolmus and grab the front seats.

Lunch at Çardak Pide, most famous restaurant for pide in Trabzon – recommended as the best pide in town! Sit in the alfresco area, cloudy sky now and a little cold but don’t want to sit in the heated interiors. Servers are young, one guy sends a girl employee who likes watching Hindi soaps and bollywood movies etc! Interact with her and order a mix pide – half veg and half non-veg, comes with ample butter!

Amazing taste. People smoking Nargile (sheesha). It is a hectic place and almost everyone is having 1 pide each. It is quite heavy on the tummy and we wonder how is everyone able to eat an entire pide! Some pide are round ones. Çardak Pide is full of locals dining, old men and families playing cards on the table etc. Gave the serving lady masala chai that we had carried from India. Served delicious complimentary çay after asking for bill! 21TL only!

Go back to the market. Recommended Laz Boregi at Helvacilar shop. Tell from Hindistan so the owner makes us taste 2 types of baklava that was yum (for free)! Laz Boregi 5TL for a piece and tasted ok ok, not great. Saw a local hamami and asked the price for a full hamam treatment (oil massage, soap massage and bathing) for 90-100 TL. Much much cheaper than Istanbul. Instagram calligraphy shop in Trabzon market, really pretty stuff. Think about buying but decide not to buy because don’t want to get into space constraints. Amazing diaries with calligraphy covers.

Go to Bedesten – old covered market. Nice old stuff but some shops felt out of place and a little touristy. Copper utensil maker, prices are quite reasonable for the fine quality stuff. Amazing cafe with antique collection – Bezmigah. Turkish music playing, locals and tourists chilling over cups of Turkish çay and Turk Kahvesi (Turkish coffee), pretty kilims hanging on walls! Love the interiors, think about sitting and check the menu. Super expensive!

From Bedesten, enter a different area of the market, coffee beans crusher is very cute and small, made of copper. Pretty and at 5-7 TL is a steal. 60 TL for coffee set with a tray etc. Reasonably priced but we have already decided to not buy anything. Cute stools, wish we can carry back to India for the balcony at home!

Meet Hasan, dry fruit shop owner. He is fascinated with Hindistan. Offers chai, we gladly accept. He is a cool guy, owner of a dry-fruit shop and staff also comes to chat with us. Share stories from India and Turkey travel with him and laugh over the incidents. Cold weather now, sort of evening at 3-4 pm and breeze blowing. Taste dry fruits from shop and discuss prices so that we know the right price to buy before leaving for India.

Çarši Cami (Mosque) in old market. Stunning roof design. Spot another proper local hamam for Bay (men) next to the mosque. The man at the Hamami – Google translates Turkish to English and quotes 75 TL for the entire hamam experience! So reasonable. Want to experience it but time is limited, we dont have a hotel room now and a bus to catch to Van in the night. Decide to experience a local Hamam in the latter part of the trip when our bodies are tired.

Walk past carpet shops and enquire about prices. Kasmir Hali, very big carpet shop. The best woven carpets priced as high as 40000 TL. Some nice ones at 4000 TL. 5-6 pm. Walk back to the main square of Uzun Sokak and back to Tahir Aga Konagi to pick our luggage. Try to find the Lokantasi where we had our first breakfast right after arriving in Trabzon – to give 2 masala chai packets to him as a thank you note, but unable to find it. Maybe it is closed in the evening.

At the Guest House, ask if we can sit in the garden and for wine glasses. Staff is ok with it! Enjoy a lot and relax too. 1 glass red wine each and pack the remaining bottle in our day pack. Take our bags, thank the staff and walk to Metro Turizm Office, pick up van will come at 815 pm, we keep our bags there and tell him we will be back at the office by 8.

Decide to head back to CemilUsta for dinner. Speak to the same staff and greet him, the guy is very happy to see us and makes us meet the manager! Offers complimentary tea and 4 pieces of complimentary baklava. Comparatively less crowded today.

Don’t want to have heavy dinner since its an overnight bus journey. Recommended Kuymak (1 dish among the 2 of us – cheese with cornflour for 20 TL). Served with bread and complimentary pilav. Delicious and perfect for 2 of us as it is quite heavy on the palate. Very thankful to the manager.

Notable facts about Trabzon

Trabzon is Turkey’s leading grower and exporter of hazelnuts. For football enthusiasts, Trabzon is home to the famous football team Trabzonspor.

A must-try local dish is kuymak, it is a sort of cheese fondue made with butter and cornflour. Eaten with bread, this dish is of moorish origin.

Laz Boregi, a dessert with layers of filo pastry is locally popular – of the indigenous Laz people of Trabzon.

Black cabbage grows in abundance around Trabzon and is widely used in salads and soups.

Pide is a national dish eaten all over Turkey. The Trabzon version is topped with an egg and is undoubtedly the best pide in Turkey.

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Walk back to metro office and relax there itself. Shuttle bus comes at 820 pm for pick up and drop to Trabzon Otogar. Board 9 pm bus to Van. Trabzon-Erzurum-Van written on the bus signboard. Very excited.

Bus guys smoking in moving bus. Difficult night, not a good experience with Metro Turizm bus. Multiple tunnel crossings. Road not as good as usual roads in Turkey. Got only tea, no snacks in the bus. Erzurum Otogar stop in night, frozen cold. Brrr cold, snow on the road. Start of barren landscape. (2 am).

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Our Delhi – Istanbul ticket was originally booked for 21 December on the 1050 am flight on a sale in May. As the day of departure came closer, we made a rough plan for exploring parts of Turkey we hadn’t been to in 2018; and Trabzon (located on the Black sea coast) is the first destination we decide to head to. Our return flight has been booked for 4 January 2020.

Also check : Istanbul – Top Backpacking Hacks for a Shoestring Budget

Indigo customer care guys are kind enough to change the date of our flight to 19th December at 0530 am (with no fee) because there is a change in the time of the original flight. Although there are multiple reasonably priced flight options (100-120 Turkish Lira) from Istanbul to Trabzon, we decide not to pre-book a flight. We have practical concerns – 1. New Istanbul Airport, so not sure about immigration times and the time required for connecting flight (from IST Airport or Sabiha Gokcen) in case the landing flight gets delayed. 2. Currency exchange rates at the airport are always the worst. 

So, we decide to take things as they come and give ourselves plenty of time as our revised flight is scheduled to arrive at 1030 am in Istanbul. It leaves us with the possibility of exchanging currency at a good rate in Istanbul and then taking an evening bus to Trabzon that would reach early morning the next day.

19 December 2019

Early (really early) morning flight from Delhi to Istanbul. On 18 December in Delhi, we have wandered in the Lajpat Nagar Afghan area and impulsively brought 2 kilo kinnows. The sunny weather suddenly turns cold and we decide to carry the oranges in our hand baggage to eat in the flight! Both of us pack light and carry 1 backpack and 1 daypack each. Carry Euros from Delhi @ 79.20 INR per Euro with bill.

Reach Delhi airport at 1-130 am. Indigo flight is on time and after pre-booking some alcohol, we lie down on the cosy chairs spread across T-3. Have got a tiffin packed with ajwain paranthas and potato sabji, bhujia and some dry pickle to eat in the flight / arrival in Istanbul (since it is a 7 hour flight). Eat a few oranges before boarding, get some curious looks at Delhi airport.

Sleep on the flight. Water served. No food as expected. Similar to a domestic flight, just longer. Wake up an hour or two before landing and feel hungry. Polish off my share of the paranthas, sabji and namkeen. Land at New Istanbul Airport, even before the scheduled time of 1000 am.

New Istanbul Airport

Huge airport, no queues at all. Number of gates for Turkish Airlines passengers and other airlines is just humongous. Very forward looking, airport has been planned for double the present traffic it seems. Immigration takes less than 1 minute. Funny incident – Out of habit we try to stand in a queue in a counter where there are already 4-5 members of a family standing. Get called by an officer at an empty immigration counter who tells us they have made the new airport so that we don’t have to stand in a queue!

I remark that our passports are stamped in lesser time than it takes one to pee! Search for drinking water. Forgot asking the Indigo guys to fill the bottles before leaving the aircraft. No free drinking water at Istanbul airport arrival. Browse through duty free section, good prices on some products. Use free airport wifi to check up on whatsapp and social media etc.

Clean washrooms as expected. Do the needful, freshen up and get prepared for a long day and then an 18 hour bus ride to Trabzon!

Exit airport and check foreign exchange prices at different bank offices. We have to exchange a minimal amount to enable us to buy+recharge the Istanbulkart and buy water before we exchange the bulk of our Euros in Sultanahmet/Aksaray. Ziraat Bank has least commission loss (5-6 %) among the banks at the airport – Euro to Turkish Lira official exchange at 6.56. For 20 Euros we got 126 Turkish Liras.

Pro tip : Notify your bank that you will be travelling; prior to departure. If you are travelling with sensitive documents, consider storing them digitally on secured devices. Almost all banks provide bank statements as password protected PDFs for this reason.

Havaist – 20 from New Istanbul Airport to Sultanahmet 

Buy IstanbulKart with the help of locals, use sign language since the man is from Gaziantep and can’t understand English. Thankful to him as he is really helpful and also helps us load 50 Turkish Lira on the Istanbulkart. Run to try and catch the 1130 am Havaist Bus to Sultanahmet (from Pillar 12 – Havaist IST-20 Bus), bus after every 30 minutes.

When we are asking for directions to Pillar number 12, one of the locals remarks that we can catch the 12 noon bus. We see its only 1127 am and know that we will be able to catch the 1130 bus if we are smart enough. Lucky that we get to the bus at 1129. The bus guy hands us our luggage tags after keeping our bags and the bus starts as soon as we sit. Happy to notice that there are 2 empty seats in the middle. Super comfortable. Istanbulkart swiped for 18 TL per person fare.

Barren scenery, pass through local markets. Takes around 60-70 minutes to reach Sultanahmet (100 minutes as per bus schedule). 3-4 stops on the route and passengers get down as per their requirement. We get down at the last stop in Sultanahmet, near Hagia Sophia. Give in to temptation and indulge in touristy delight of eating corn – very expensive at 5 TL!

We are very hungry and thirsty now that it is almost 1 pm. Sunny weather and nice chill in the air. First, a supermarket – 0.90 TL for 1.5 litre water bottle. So we buy 2 and fill our 1 litre bottles and drink our fill. Start walking to find an old food joint from the last visit in 2018. Find it and order a tomato and egg curry(15 TL) and a non-veg sub(6TL), like always the bread comes free with the egg curry.

Tasty food and enjoy the setting of sitting in the street watching the locals go by their daily life. Exchange a smoke with locals. Pleased to eat nicely and the tummy is full now. Also finish the food that we have carried from India. Now for the main task, currency exchange for 800 Euros and around 200 USD that we have decided to exchange into Turkish Lira. Keep walking past the Grand Bazaar in Sultanahmet, exchange at one crowded office.

1 Euro for 6.56 and 1 US$ Dollar for 5.90 when the official rate is 6.58 and 5.92 respectively on xe. All in all, our final exchange rate turns out to be 12.07 INR per Turkish Lira after calculating the INR to Euro to TL conversion. Funny moment at the exchange when our 6000 odd Turkish Lira are strewn across the floor when they slip out of our hands! No damage done as they are all safely collected. Very happy at the excellent exchange rate and minimal transaction loss.

Start our walk to Aksaray Metro as we want to head to the main Otogar (Bus station) of Istanbul at Esenler. Little disappointed seeing a signboard on the way, 6.59 TL for a Euro and 5.94 for US$. The exchange rates had just gone up and it might have created a minor 40 TL fictional loss for us! It is around 230 pm and we are pleased to have saved some time for a possible visit to a open air café.

We have already checked the timings for Istanbul-Trabzon buses on an online Turkish application (obilet) and know that the preferred 2+1 buses leave at 5 pm. (2+1 bus means there are 2 seats on one side and 1 seat on the other side, essentially meaning there is more space than a 2+2 bus which has an extra seat with the same space on the bus. There is hardly a difference of 5-10 TL (if any) in the bus fares for 2+1 and 2+2 buses so we always prefer the 2+1 buses, given a choice.)

Sit in the shade at a nice looking café beneath a tree full of autumn colours. Picturesque setting for Turk Kahvesi (Turkish coffee) + Antep Baklava (pistachio) for 25 TL. Little expensive but this is Istanbul and we are pleased with the fine quality of the baklava (the Turkish coffee is good everywhere!) Walk to Aksaray metro station and catch the metro to Kirazli, get down at Esenler Otogar and reach the bus station area.

Buses in Turkey

As we are getting out of the metro, a guy from one of the bus companies asks us where we want to go. We reply Trabzon and he takes us to the Kanberoglu bus office with a 2+1 bus leaving at 6 pm.

Check : Of Breakfasts and Mountains : Van, Turkey

It is currently 345 pm and 6 pm is too late for us, as it would mean us reaching Trabzon at around 11 am as it is around 17-18 hour ride. Camberoglu officials try to entice us by reducing the price from 160 TL to 140 TL and telling us this is the only bus from Istanbul to Trabzon etc etc. Have rough idea about Ali Osman Ulusoy having a bus at 5 pm and we walk to their office. VIP Bus (2+1) leaving at 4 pm for Trabzon. They quote 150 TL per person and we settle for 140 TL for seats in the front of our choice.

Overjoyed! Put our bags and get luggage tags. Great day already, going to plan even though we have it all flexible. Very very comfortable reclinable seats, and wifi in bus. On this trip to Turkey we have not bothered to take a wifi card / sim card and have no phone connectivity and are wholly relying on free wifi everywhere!

Beautiful sunset and evening colours from the bus, stunning autumn colours in the landscape, green boulevards on the side of the road, personal screens for entertainment with movies, games, tv etc and a butler serving water, coffee, tea, juice, snacks. Stop at a place by the name of Bolu for dinner at around 8 pm (no charge for WC, so very happy!). Ulusoy is surely the best bus service in all of Turkey!

Eat patatesli gözleme (potato parantha) for dinner for 8 TL; boring but somehow manage to fill my tummy. Buffett is available for 35 TL per person. Mostly all other locals eating Çorba (lentil soup) with bread and sipping çay (tea). Local olives, chestnuts, honey available for very reasonable prices at the shop.

Brrr cold outside. Temperature inside the bus is comfortable rather than being too heated or too cold. Very comfortable sleep. Passengers get half empty on the way at numerous stops. Sleep on an entire seat each. Bus stops for WC near Samsun. Wake up to a surreal sunrise on the black sea coast as we near Trabzon. The bus rolls into Trabzon Otogar at 8 am.

Very very cold and breezy morning in Trabzon. Have identified 2-3 probable places to stay in Trabzon at a distance of around 2 kms away from Otogar. Ask for help with wifi at one café on the bus stand and they let us load the walking map for directions. Start walking in the blistery wind to one shortlisted heritage homestay in Esentepe area in Trabzon. Super surprised to see a bus on the main road with a signboard – Istanbul to Baku.

Initially, this post was meant to be a part of the Trabzon experience but as I started penning it down, I realised it was better to make this a separate article for the readers. Aren’t we all trying to get away from the capital of the landing country at the soonest?

This initial success was to prove a vital link to our explorations across Turkey. Will make separate posts about different cities that we visited on this winter trip.

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