I took a train that left from Jaipur at 11 pm and reached Jodhpur Junction at 5 am. The month of November meant nice weather, and there was a nice chill in the air. As I had guessed, auto guys at Jodhpur station asked for astronomical prices for going to the old city. We decide to walk out of the station to reach the road and come across a tea stall. The tea stall guy is up and running and seems quite popular judging by the small crowd already gathered for their morning fix of chai.

Check : https://travelshoebum.com/2017/11/09/stunning-photographs-from-the-golden-city-of-india-jaisalmer/

He gives us masala chai in 2 tall glasses and it turns out to be excellent. We debate about having seconds but decide that 1 big glass was good enough! For a change, I have booked a guest house in Jodhpur in advance and the distance for the same is shown as 3-4 kms from the railway station. When an auto guy decides to charge us 60 Rupees, we agree and in no time enter the old city that is just rising up at about 615 am. Thankfully, we have already asked the guest house guy for an early check-in and he has obliged.

The walls of the guest house are painted blue and the family is awake even though it is very early. We are asked to wait for some time. It is the blue hour and Mehrangarh Fort is visible – lit in a brilliant orange light. At the guest house, there is a soft blue light everywhere. There is a gorgeous sitting space that serves as a restaurant / breakfast space and it comes with a view of the Mehrangarh Fort. It feels like ‘love at first sight’ in Jodhpur and our choice of accommodation in the old city feels perfect.

It is a multi-storey building built as a home that has been converted into a guest house. The family also lives in a part of the structure. Every room is different with unique decor, sit-outs etc. We sleep in the cosy bed for 2-3 hours and then decide to freshen up and step out to explore Jodhpur. First, we ask for 2 cups of chai and savour the moment to gaze at the Mehrangarh Fort from the sitting area.

I am wonderstruck with the intensity of the heat of the sun in Jodhpur. We are feeling hungry but have to be careful of the sultry and hot desert-like weather even though it is early November. We come across the owner of the guest house and ask him if he has any recommendations on where we should eat a proper lunch since it is already close to 12 noon. His family and relatives also run other places in the old city of Jodhpur and he directs us to one of the rooftop places for lunch.

We start walking through the narrow, crowded and winding lanes in the old city of Jodhpur and reach one Haveli restaurant. It is an open terrace with bougainvillea blooming in red, pink and yellow and is very beautiful. There is a nice view of the old city from the terrace and we can see the blue houses of Jodhpur while Mehrangarh Fort stands tall and towers over this ancient city.

The thali is huge and we order 1 thali to split it among the 2 of us! It is sizeable and costs 300 INR. We ask for a few extra chapatis and finish the entire thali. Every dish is yummy and we can’t help but wonder how amazing travel in India is as we are the only guests in the restaurant and yet have been served 10 perfect and freshly made dishes!

On our way back from the terrace we notice that the interior dining hall of the Haveli restaurant is very nice and that there is an artistic glass temple too in the property itself. We thank the staff for an excellent lunch and head to the Sardar Market.

At around 1 pm, we are in front of the Clock Tower which is the centre of the Bazaar in Jodhpur. We buy a 10 Rupee ticket to enter the clock tower and climb the stairs to reach the top floor. It is fun to see the functioning of the the clock. It is an old clock with an automatic gong sounding system every 1 hour. We spot a few pretty cafés in the market; some of them are set in red sandstone buildings and appear especially cute and rustic.

It is quite hot in the sun with the dry heat but is nice and pleasant in the shaded part. We go walking through the bazaar; and notice old shops, antique windows, colourful patchwork bags, miniature furniture drawers, dresses, jackets etc. Most of the shops are home run and perhaps thats why the prices are reasonable. The doors in old Jodhpur are very pretty and we are pleasantly surprised to come across a stepwell Toorji Ka Jhalra. It is fascinating to come across a small café with a view of the stepwell.

There are more shops on the crossroads; one of them is selling traditional-looking colourful Rajasthani style bags. The area has an unmistakeable touristy feel but feels nice when it is the locals who benefit from the purchases! We stumble upon a walking path and it turns out to be a shortcut to go to Mehrangarh Fort. Wall hangings attract visitors to peruse the blue houses and there are block print products galore for sale.

The blue houses of Jodhpur look especially calming and feel cool in the shade. I come across a shop selling a wide variety of exquisite looking leather bags. I think about buying something but feel that the prices quoted are a bit too much and I am not certain about the quality of the bags although they seem very nicely made. We are on our way to Mehrangarh Fort and are pleasantly surprised to come across a few hostels in old buildings along the way! They are perfect for backpackers who choose to explore and prefer slow travel to save costs on accommodation for more immersive travel.

The per bed charge in hostels in Jodhpur is approx. 200-300 INR and these are usually air conditioned. I come across another leather shop that has leather footwear, leather hats, small pocket leather bags as well. One home has a stunning collection of kurtas and block print clothes hanging outside on a moving cart.

The art shops of Jodhpur have eye catching souvenirs; there are table lamps, metal pots, candle holders, windows, and other knick-knacks. We enter one of these extremely inviting shops and it turns out to be quite expensive as expected. There is antique stuff for sale from across India. Pretty doors of heritage value are also available for sale as we continue on the climbing path to the fort.

There are many guest houses and homestays and it seems like every household is catering to tourists. The proceedings are very quiet though as it is siesta time for locals in the hot afternoons!

Mehrangarh Fort

Mehrangarh Fort is a massive structure and towers above the skyline of Jodhpur. There is a stunning cenotaph at the entrance before the actual fort. The entrance to the fort is grand with paintings in lovely colours. Even the ticket counter has a heritage feel. One guy plays a lovely song on the traditional Ravanhatta instrument under a tree – ‘Padharo mhare des.’ I record a short video and make small conversation with him and thank him for creating such mellifluous music.

We enter the grand fort. To the left are fingerprints of women – signifying Johar (mass self-immolation to save enslavement by the enemy). It is surreal to notice birds flying in the background of the blue sky. There are many enclosures in Mehrangarh Fort and stunning latticed windows and frames with loads of foreign tourists. I dare say Jodhpur might be one of the most popular places to visit in Rajasthan; even more so than Jaipur!

The window frames in the fort are very nice. The museum showcases a gallery of palanquins. I click a memorable frame with a Rajasthani guy sporting a huge moustache in window. There are pigeons on windows and latticed windows and art work with immaculate carvings on marble. I marvel at the surrounding buildings from the courtyard. We walk in a different area and come across even more prettier windows.

Inside the fort, there is Belgian glass over the doors. I am a bit disappointed to learn that photography is not allowed. On display is a grand collection of of hookahs, bidri ware and metal pots. The stairs look majestic and make for a great frame. There is a temple inside the fort and Belgian glass illuminated from the inside with beautiful colours. There are a number of dazzling sections, and golden light in different halls.

There are epic views of Jodhpur city from different parts of the fort. The fort is so huge that we keep seeing hitherto unseen sections even at 430 pm after having entered around 2 pm. At about 5 pm, we head to the temple in the fort. Magnificent evening colours and blue houses of Jodhpur are visible. It is an incredibly beautiful scene but we can’t stay here for very long. It is closing time for the fort and the authorities ask us to leave at 515 pm.

We walk out of Mehrangarh Fort with the blue houses visible. I am able to click a majestic sunset photograph. On the way out, there is a venue being decked up for some function. I wonder how would it feel to attend a musical evening with the stunning background of the fort! We concur that the day has gone well so far and the evening after-sunset colours are like icing on the cake. We walk through the by-lanes of Jodhpur and amble around the market.

We indulge in some textile shopping, eat the recommended local delicacies and go to our guest house. Mehrangarh Fort is lit and visible from our room itself! Demonetisation troubles mean we have to stand in a queue outside an ATM and are able to somehow withdraw 4000 Rupees. It is a crazy time for sure and we head to Indique Restaurant at Pal Haveli for dinner. It is an impeccable setting on the rooftop with an expansive view of the Mehrangarh Fort.

Indique is a fine dine restaurant and is one of the best places to eat in Jodhpur. I thought the prices were a bit on the higher side but it is still ok for the impeccable rooftop setting and the great food.

We sleep till late next morning and head out for breakfast of pyaaz kachori at one Solanki Shop, and have chai at another local recommendation.

Om Banna Temple

We make a quick decision to head to Om Banna Temple that is around 40 kms away from Jodhpur and lies on the road to Pali. We catch a bus and it drops us right in front of the Om Banna Temple after an hour or so.

The Om Banna Temple is also popularly known as the Bullet Baba Temple. There is a festive atmosphere at the temple and it is thronged by pilgrims. The temple has a fascinating story, where the locals worship the Royal Enfield Bullet motorcycle in reverence of Om Singh Rathore, the rider of the bike. Local folklore turned legend has it – Om Banna met with an accident and died on the spot, but the motorcycle mysteriously kept appearing at a particular site that has now been turned into a temple. It is hugely surprising to see the locals offering alcohol – rum, whisky at the temple. It is a revered and very respected site with huge crowds singing Om Banna Aarti. We feel a bit hungry and spot 2-3 big dhabas and restaurants on the opposite side of Om Banna Temple on the highway. These eateries have a very commercial look so we decide to not eat here.

We want to head to Salawas (that is on the way back to Jodhpur) and are lucky to get a ride in a bus! While walking on the road, we come across hordes of trucks outside one dhaba. This dhaba is close to the diversion to Luni village. It is a proper rustic dhaba and we ask for whatever local and fresh stuff they can serve! It turns out to be an incredible meal. Bajra roti with ghee, bhindi in green gravy, dall with palak served with freshly cut onions and chillies. We have our fill and savour more bajra roti and they give us helpings of the bhindi and palak dal. We are charged a measly 80 Rupees per person and the food is served in steel plates. It turns out to be an epic local food experience that we have been seeking so desperately.

With the happiness that only comes on a full stomach, we start strolling around and come across home-run pottery shops. It is the Bishnoi area, known for Chinkara sightings etc. It reminded me of the Chinkara – Salman Khan episode. We talk to some passersby randomly and they invite us to a local’s home for an opium ceremony.

An old man is seated with a conical filter in front of him, he filters the opium with water in a small katori vessel and sings a ritualistic song as it is a tradition in these parts. We thank him for the wonderful song and for letting us be a part of the traditional ritual ceremony and pay 50 Rupees as a thank you note. I am especially pleased to see this ceremony by a Bishnoi local in the original manner without any outside influence. That is a common thing about offbeat experiences; once you get used to doing out-of-the-box things – these experiences automatically find you as you travel more!

Nearby there are a few shops that show us woollen blankets from Barmer. They look authentic and are woven from sheep wool; and are very nice and warm for only 500 Rupees for 2 blankets. We also come across a home based block print shop where they make bedsheets. I check double bedsheets and single bedsheets and notice that their designs are very unique. Pillow covers are included with some bedsheets. There is another place nearby giving demonstrations of block printing where the ladies of the house make the bedsheets.

We end up buying a single bedsheet in green colour with a pleasing design, block printed in pure cotton. As soon as we step out of that home, we come across a pottery place. We are pleasantly surprised to see the grand collection and the gentleman also brings some bedsheets. I buy a classic Rajasthani design double bed sheet with pillow covers. We are randomly walking after that and spot a chinkara or blackbuck far away in the open space across the road. We get excited and start walking in the direction not realising that it is not towards Jodhpur.

We come across some fields and realise it is on the way to one Gudha village. We are unable to spot any chinkara or other wildlife and decide to head back to Jodhpur since it will be evening soon. The road is very quiet and deserted. We see a grand sunset from the road and catch a bus to return to Jodhpur. On the outskirts, there are a number of dhabas serving dal baati churma and we debate whether we should have an early dinner! Instead we continue in the bus and reach the main market stop in Jodhpur.

Janta Sweets, Jodhpur

First stop after getting back to Jodhpur is to walk to Janta Sweets – Eat sweets, kachori etc. That is to be our dinner today. It is a hugely popular place and for good reason! Go back to the guest house after clicking some frames in the market. Pretty windows with old men sitting and observing the goings on. Relax with an amazing view of Mehrangarh Fort from the room.

Next morning, we head out for street food tasting in Jodhpur. It is widely believed among the locals that in entire Rajasthan, Jodhpur has the best food. Our breakfast is mawa kachori, tea, aloo bonda, mirchi vada, makhaniya lassi etc. Today I have a train to Jaisalmer in the night and my partner is returning to Delhi. So we go back to the hotel, have a bath and check out of the hotel and keep our bags there and tell the owner that we will pick them up in the evening.

Walk to Shahi Samosa diversion and come across horse drawn carriages ferrying the locals. He drops us somewhere from where we get a bus for Mandore. Mandore was the old capital of Jodhpur and we are happy to roam around the ancient temples.

Mandore

Mandore is very pretty. There are blooming bougainvillea flowers amidst temples, frames, carvings, and incredibly beautiful doors. It is spread over a huge area and there are very few people in the complex. I spot some foreigners and local tourists too. The entry ticket to Mandore is quite cheap. It starts feeling a little hot around noon. We spend about 2 hours to explore the historic parts of Mandore and then head back to Jodhpur.

We directly head to Indique (at Pal Haveli) for a late lunch at about 4-5 pm. It turns out to be our only proper meal of the day so we sit on a table in the shade and eat in peace. We gaze at the Mehrangarh Fort, then go to Jaswant Thada and then walk in the by-lanes as a sort of goodbye walk in Jodhpur.

Jaswant Thada

Constructed in white marble, Jaswant Thada is a majestic structure located at a distance of about 2-3 kms from the Mehrangarh fort and kept spotlessly clean for added charm of the marble. It is a cenotaph that was built in memory of Maharaja Jaswant Singh of Jodhpur. The entrance has marvellous green doors on the side of the stairs while lots of tourists flock around the Jaswant Thada Complex. At the entrance there is also a signboard for Rao Jodha Desert National Park. There are many big and small chattris (cenotaphs) at Jaswant Thada with pretty small doors and windows and they look especially pleasing in the mellow evening light.

The surreal sounds of a Rajasthani folk song and harmonium come ringing in my ears. We sit and marvel at the architecture and listen to the music. Inside Jaswant Thada it feels nice and cool with the marble structure. Spend some time and start walking back at about 515 pm.

Among the many recommendations I received for food in Jodhpur :

– Shahi chakki, gulab jamun vegetable, kabuli and haldi matter, besan gatta, lehsun ki chutney and mirchi ka kut.

– Pokhar Sweet Home – Small shop at Sanichar ji ka Than, Chopasani Road Sardarpura.

– Choudhary Namkeen 

– Chaturbhuj Rameshchand 

– Mohanji Mithaiwala 

– Janta Sweet Home

It was 2019 and time to return to Jodhpur for a road-trip.

Fort Chanwa Luni

Road trip from Jaipur, took the Dechu road and passed the sand dunes. We chose Fort Chanwa for a relaxing stay located around 40 kms away from Jodhpur. It is a beautiful heritage property set in a small village and spread across a huge area with multiple open gardens. It is a refurbished heritage fort with four poster beds in the rooms. There are massive sit outs in the garden with a nice view of the evening colours in the sky. Evening lights, miniature painting guy at the fort itself. We climb the roof and enjoy the sunset views from the top of the fort. Decide to go to Indique for dinner since the family hasn’t been there earlier. The clock tower is lit up in a pink colour. Indique is quite crowded! Thankfully we had booked a table earlier.

Pretty morning at Fort Chanwa. Gorgeous flowers spread across the fort and the frames are surreal with the sunlight filtering through. Helpful and cheerful staff helps us to click photographs! Breakfast served in open lawn – surreal setting with a view of the fort. Excellent – everything is freshly made and customised according to requirement. Some of the sit-outs in the fort are simply unbelievable. In one section, the guest rooms are with sofa, old haveli style with marble flooring and Belgian glass windows with light filtering through. It feels incredibly pretty!

Head to Salawas and come across block printed dupattas. End up buying 2 bedsheets and the quality turns out to be excellent.

On our way back from Jaisalmer, even though it is evening time and we are not particularly hungry we still decide to head to Indique for a beer. It is an amazing sight to see the evening colours with the frame of Mehrangarh Fort! Love it.

Jodhpur Sardar Bazaar – Tea Shop Kullad chai. Sitting on a bench and watching the world go buy. Close to Pal Haveli. Excellent Kulhad chai and the perfect place to enjoy the old market of Jodhpur.

We come across one Stepwell Café on an evening walk and notice boutique stores in a building as a part of the JDH project – Jodhpur Heritage Development – Heritage, shops etc

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A Lahauli friend who now lives in Kullu once remarked that they had to cut short a family trip to Jaipur, because his wife couldn’t stop shopping!Among the popular things to shop in Jaipur are – Gems, block prints, miniature paintings, blue pottery, jewellery, brass utensils, mojaris (traditional leather footwear), leather products, floor coverings (dhurries and rugs), tie and dye cotton fabrics, travel souvenirs.

The heritage walled city (old pink city part) is the heartbeat of Jaipur and is the preferred place for shopping for the locals, because the products are authentic and the prices are very competitive here. There are lanes dedicated to specialised crafts; and tiny shops sell lac bangles, gems, paintings, block printed fabrics, mojaris, antiques, wall hangings, furniture, paper products and lots of other interesting stuff. The walled city part of Jaipur was also included as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2019.

Here’s a Complete Guide to Shopping in Jaipur, what to shop and where to shop it from…

Lanes in the walled city –

Kishanpole Bazaar : Kishanpole Bazaar specialises in wooden handicrafts and puppets, tie and dye textiles and for its shops selling sherbets of various flavours like rose, pistachios, saffron. I highly recommend Shop No. 307 for buying sherbets. Their charnamrat flavour is especially good.

Johari Bazaar : The name Johari Bazaar literally translates to jewellery market. It is the preferred market for buying precious and semi-precious gems and stones like emeralds, ruby, pearls. Johari Bazaar is also a popular place to shop kundan jewellery, meenakari work (glazed enamelling), tie & dye sarees (leheriya) and gota saris. For sarees – Shop at Roop Laxmi and Rana Sari Emporium. Lal ji Saand ka Rasta is an entire lane dedicated to shops selling sarees and lehengas. Gopalji ka Rasta and Haldiyon ka Rasta can be visited to see the gemstone artisans at work with precious and semi-precious stones.

Tripolia Bazaar : Prominent things to shop for in Tripolia Bazaar include metal crafts, brass utensils like kettles, jugs and dinner sets, antiques and miniature paintings. Maniharon ka Rasta is a lane full of shops selling colourful bangles made of lac or resin. Shop No. 133 at Maniharon ka Rasta is recommended for buying lac bangles. Also, I can personally recommend Kishanlal Ramchand Brass Merchant, shop no. 173 in Tripolia Bazaar as it sells authentic brass utensils and has fixed prices. 

Chandpole Bazaar : It is purely a local’s market with several shops selling spices, pulses and daily essentials. Khazane Walon ka Rasta in Chandpole Bazaar is a by-lane where marble and stoneware carvers chisel first-class statues of mythological figures. A few artisans in the same lane are also proficient in marble inlay work. It is best to check multiple shops, compare prices for the particular product that you have chosen and then buy.

Chaura Rasta : Highly recommended for buying Jaipuri Quilts, block printed quilts, dohars and quilted bedcovers. One may buy at any of the Lashkari shops on Chaura Rasta road, they all stock excellent quality of the above products and sell at a reasonable price.

Sireh Deori Bazar (Market near Hawa Mahal) : Although it is the most touristy market and one might be quoted sky-high prices, it still remains a market to experience for its sheer variety. Poufs, bright wall hangings, light weight quilts, leather bags, glass and mosaic lamps are among the souvenirs to buy from here. Remember if the price feels too high, you are being duped and simply walk away.

Purohit Ji ka Katla (Badi Choupad) : This is a real local’s market with shops choc-a-bloc with each other. It is a good place to buy textiles and wedding trousseau at wholesale rates, you will rarely find another tourist in Purohit Ji ka Katla. Also, it can get very crowded so the best time to go here is in the afternoons.

Bapu Bazaar : It is a popular market for tourists but still remains a good choice to shop for mojaris (traditional camel skin footwear), block print bedsheets, Jaipuri quilts, block printed shirts, dress material and suits. Check out the quality of fabric at different shops before buying. One can also head to Ramganj Bazar market to watch the artists at work making juttis, mojaris and leather shoes.

Thatheron ka Rasta is a lane that can be accessed from Chaura Rasta / Kishanpol Bazaar where one can see the utensil makers (Thatheras) go about their craft of making brass utensils. Thathera is a community of metal beaters who make utensils from malleable metals like copper, and from alloys like brass and bronze. The craftsmen also make traditional copper vessels and it is possible to buy directly from them, if you can finalise a product and agree on the price.

Unique Souvenirs in Jaipur, and Where to Buy them?

Kaushalam – It is a tiny store located in C Scheme with an exquisite variety of hand painted products like kettles, tiffins, glasses. It is a tiny shop and you might see artists at work, painting a product at any given time. Prices are a bit on the higher side but are fixed and the products are definitely unique and high quality.

Ridhi Sidhi Textiles – This shop is a favourite of textile designers who work with fabrics. Ridhi Sidhi Textiles specialises in Bagru Hand Block printed fabric and sells at a fixed price of INR 225 to INR 275 per metre. It is owned by two brothers and is majorly involved in exports and wholesale. 

Meera Handicrafts, Amber Road – A small setup that is located on the first floor, Meera Handicrafts’ is a wholesaler and specialises in hand block indigo printed textiles. Their manufacturing unit is in Sanganer. I recommend buying the super affordable 2.5 metre fabrics for dresses and shirts (100 INR per metre) and the Indigo and Shibori cushion covers.

Manglam Arts – Manglam Arts is for the serious shoppers out there. It is an export house and has many branches across Jaipur. Among the products to check here are the carpets and floor coverings, furniture(antique and rustic), textiles, home furnishings & home linen, paintings, antiques, wall hangings. Their showroom is 4 storeys and is like a treasure trove. One must be aware of the extremely high prices though, they are used to catering to foreign clients for bulk orders. 

Jaipur Blue Pottery – A Jaipur speciality(with a GI tag), blue pottery is a unique style of pottery that does not use any clay, is fired at a very low temperature and highly glazed. Recommended places to shop blue pottery are Jaipur Blue Pottery Art Centre and Neerja Blue Pottery. These are both authentic places making a variety of blue pottery products. Kripal Kumbh in Bani Park is another place to buy blue pottery. It is expensive but worth the exquisite designs. There are a few other shops on Amber Road but the quality may be doubtful. Aditya Blue Art Pottery in Sanganer can be tried but I recommend buying from the authentic 3 places mentioned above. 

Pichwai Paintings – Pichwai paintings are usually made on cloth and depict tales from Lord Krishna’s life. Lord Krishna is commonly depicted as Shrinath Ji in Pichwai paintings. There are a handful of artists in Jaipur making Pichwai paintings as the craft is more popular in Nathdwara and Udaipur. A few art galleries stock these paintings made on cloth/paper in different sizes; prices quoted are at the whims and fancies of the owners. Often the amount paid to artisans and painters does not reflect in the prices quoted by the art galleries. 

Regular readers of this blog would be aware of my love for arts and crafts, and the lockdown gave me a chance to delve into my passion and start a small business initiative – ‘Indilocal by Travelshoebum‘. Indilocal works with artisans and can also procure Pichwai paintings for clients. The collection can be checked here : www.instagram.com/indilocal 

Kishangarh Miniature Paintings – Kishangarh Miniature Paintings are paintings inspired by the unique Kishangarh school of Art. Many artists make these miniature paintings in Jaipur and these can be bought at one of the art galleries. Kishangarh miniature paintings are made on paper and also on fabric (cotton/silk).  

Rugs and Carpets – Rugs, carpets, dhurries are made in small villages near Jaipur and are sold in a number of carpet shops on Amber Road. Among the different varieties of rugs are – Cotton Dhurries, Cotton Punja Dhurries, Wool and Jute Kilim Rugs, Wool and Cotton Carpets, Silk Rugs, Silk and Cotton Rugs, Indigo Dhurries and Block printed rugs. These are all priced differently according to the materials used and the time taken to make. Roughly a 3*5 feet size rug takes anywhere from 5 to 7 days to make. Buying a rug can be a delightful but cumbersome process if one doesn’t know the prices and is unaware of the rug making process. 

To make life easier, ‘Indilocal by Travelshoebum‘ also sources rugs from artisans working in different regions of Rajasthan and other parts of India as well. I have been buying rugs and dhurries for my family and relatives ever since I started travelling and hence have the required knowledge about the different kinds of rugs. Indilocal only works with real artisans and thereby the buyer can have the assurance that the quality is top notch and the money is being spent well. You can get in touch with me on email/instagram to see the rug collection.  

Furniture – Jaipur has a rich tradition of arts and crafts as when the city was established in 1727 AD; Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II invited craftsmen and artisans from across the country to come and settle in Jaipur.
Hastkala Export House is located on Sirsi Road in Jaipur, in an area where people have traditionally worked with wood. They only use top quality of sheesham wood and have stunning products with rustic designs. Their prices are a little on the higher side but be rest assured that the quality is excellent. Alternatively, you can check one of the myriad furniture workshops across Jaipur and check for a product if you have the knowledge about the wood quality and prices etc before buying. 

Aashayein : The Jail Shop – A unique shopping option for products that are made by prison inmates. The collection of products varies according to the season and demand – quilts, table cloths, bedspreads, organic masalas, pots, tote bags, skirts, stoles. Sometimes even furniture products like tables and chairs may be available, and paintings, carpets, and gudris too. They are priced reasonably high but you support a great venture if you buy from here.

Bunkar Sangh – It is a co-operative body that supports the handloom weavers of Rajasthan. This Bunkar Sangh shop is located near Rajasthali and is a great place to shop for those looking for authentic Rajasthani products at fixed prices. Bags, bedspreads, dress materials, textiles, quilted jackets, wall hangings, woven woollen shawls are among the products one can buy. The quality is ok for the price.

Anantaya – Anantaya is a new age design studio that is renowned for making handcrafted home decor pieces by employing local artisans. It is owned by a designer from Jaipur that employs rural artisans and products on offer are tableware, furniture, wall decor, stationery. Prices are very high as it is a premium brand. 

Pottery products in Rajasthani designs – Street sellers in Vidyadhar Nagar. On the road to Central Spine and a lane near Wooden Street, there are a number of shops based on the street. Among the products on offer are lamps, stools, planters, pots, wall hangings, jugs and all the above pottery products are all sold by rural artisans. If you are looking for colourful ethnic products, I highly recommend buying it from these sellers sitting on the pavement, your money is being spent directly and benefits the local economy. 

Chameliwala market off M.I. Road is a recommended market to shop for silver jewellery like pendants, earrings and necklaces. A few shops also stock tribal and vintage pieces. Maneeka is a recommended shop to buy in Chameliwala Market.

Jai Texart – An old and trusted name in block prints. Among the excellent products on offer are block printed bags, quilted jackets, block printed handmade paper products.

Handmade paper from Sanganer – Sanganer is well known for block print textiles and handmade paper industries. There is an entire lane of paper manufacturers and handmade paper sheets can be bought for Rs. 5 to Rs. 50 per sheet. The products made from paper like lamps, boxes, diaries, photo frame, block printed paper bags can all be bought from Sanganer. Kalpana Handmade Paper in Bawadi ka Bas is a recommended place to buy these products.

Dhurrie :

‘ I weave your name on the loom of my mind,
To make you a dhurrie when you come to me.
To clean and soften ten thousand threads,
To welcome your feet when you come to me.
No more shall I weave a mat of pain,
For you have come to me drawn by my weaving.’ ~ Unknown

Also read : A Quick Travel Guide to ‘Pink City’ in Jaipur

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We left from Jaipur late in the afternoon after a heavy lunch. The drive was smooth on the NH-8 in the beginning as the road to Sambhar diverts from the Delhi-Ajmer highway near Bichoon. The road condition was bad hereafter and there were a lot of potholes on the road. The landscape was rustic though and we could spot colourful turbans every few kilometres. We reached Sambhar town soon after and quickly made our way to Devyani Temple.

Sambhar town appeared to be steeped in antiquity and some of the buildings looked fairly old. Nitish had already made arrangements with the Pujari family for our stay in the premises of Shakambari Devi Temple that was at a distance of 20 kms from Sambhar Town. So, we had decided to check out Sambhar town and find the flamingoes near the water sources or salt pans.

I have made another trip to Sambhar (during the Covid times) recently and that has prompted me to write this post. It was a family trip and our first long drive in over 4 months! We left during the day and came back to Jaipur after watching a serene sunset over Sambhar Lake.

A Travel Guide to Sambhar Lake

Devyani Temple & Kund

Devyani Temple is one of the many temples in Sambhar Town and the entire lane boasted of other temples as well. The doors leading to the temples were very pretty as well. As we entered the temple, it led to a water pond (Devyani Kund) on which ghats were built and the entire pond (kund) was surrounded by temples dedicated to different deities. The main temple is dedicated to Ganga. The Kund and temples were also referred to as Chota Pushkar and is a revered site for locals from near and far.

Sambhar was the residing place of Saint Shukracharya. The marriage of Devyani, daughter of Saint Shukracharya and King Yayati was held here and Devyani temple was established.

Jageshwar Temple, Sambhar

On the sides of Devyani Kund, four ancient Shiva temples are established and one of them is Baba Jageshwar temple. According to local folklore the lingam at this temple is very ancient and no one has been able to know its actual depth. One local with us remarked that it was dug 80 feet but the Shivling remained without a crack. I was lucky to attend the evening aarti at this temple and was mesmerised with the sounds and chanting.

We also spotted an old tomb and Mosque while driving to Devyani temple. I couldn’t find any information about the same though. Internet research reveals that Muslim salt traders from Sambhar were active in salt trade and may have built the mosque.

Introduction of Sambhar Lake

Sambhar Lake lies at a distance of 80 km from Jaipur and 320 kms from Delhi. Sambhar Lake is India’s largest inland salt lake and is spread over 90 Sq Kms. The lake touches three districts of Rajasthan – Jaipur, Ajmer and Nagaur. Sambhar is a part of 200 square kilometers area that is a mix of desert soil and salt giving it an exotic white look. Contrary to the name, Sambhar Lake is not a lake but has little water, and is actually a saline wetland.

Sambhar Lake produces 196,000 tonnes of salt annually, which is around 9% of India’s salt production. The infrastructure at Sambhar Lake includes heritage buildings; cenotaphs and temples, and colonial establishments like the old salt museum, salt train and the Circuit House.

The circumference of Sambhar lake is 95 km, and it is surrounded by Aravali Hills on all sides. Sambhar lake basin is divided by a 5-6 km long dam. After the saltwater reaches a certain concentration, it is released by lifting the dam gates and salt is derived from the salt evaporation ponds after the water dries up.

Sambhar Lake’s beauty and vastness is best explored on a full moon night when a walk on it feels like a never ending land of silver. The night sky from the chhatri (cenotaph) near Maa Shakambari Devi Temple is incredible. In the recent past, Sambhar Lake has been the setting for the shooting of many Bollywood movies; like PK, Super 30, Delhi-6, Highway.

Click to view slideshow.

Road to Shakambari Temple passes through Jhapok and Pipla ki Dhani and Korsina Villages.

Sambhar Lake was in the news for the wrong reasons in November 2019 as approx. 20000 migratory birds were found dead in the lake. The water was subsequently cleaned and the issue of botulism was solved.

History and Legend of Sambhar Lake

Sambhar Lake is steeped in antiquity and even finds a mention in the Hindu epic Mahabharata. History states that the lake was part of the kingdom ruled by the demon king ‘Brishparva’. According to a Hindu legend and local beliefs, the protector goddess of the Chauhan Rajputs (Of Prithviraj Chauhan fame) – Maa Shakambari Devi, converted the forested region into a vast plain of precious jewels. People around the area got worried that this will result in permanent strife in the region and prayed to the Goddess to withdraw the boon.

Shakambari Devi relented and converted the area of jewels into a jewel of different kind, ‘salt lake’. Thus, Sambhar Salt Lake is said to have come into existence. A temple devoted to Maa Shakambari Devi is located on a rocky outcrop near Sambhar Lake. From the higher elevation on which it is situated, it appears as if the Goddess is guarding the lake. Shakambari Mata Temple is the venue for a popular religious fair in the month of August when people from the surrounding villages come to attend it.

Sambhar is the setting for an important event in Indian Mughal history – the wedding of Akbar and Jodha Bai took place at Sambhar Lake in 1562. Over a period of time, Sambhar Lake was controlled by the Scindhias, Marathas and Mughals. In 1709, the Rajput Kingdoms of Jaipur & Marwar regained control over it. The rulers of Jaipur and Jodhpur jointly owned the lake, and in the year 1870 Sambhar Lake was leased to the British.

According to some historical records, Sambhar town was founded in the 6th Century AD by Raja Vasudev of the Chauhan Kings.

Sunset and sunrise in Sambhar Lake are surreal and must be experienced for the feeling of calmness that they bring. There is also a Bhairav Temple in front of Shakambari Mata Temple. Locals worship the deity and make small homes with rocks in the open space, I couldn’t understand the reason for the same though.

Why is the water of Sambhar Lake salty?

Sambhar lake is part of an endorheic basin i.e. a closed drainage basin that has no outflow of water. When there is no outflow of water in a water body, all the salts that are received in the water body get accumulated and the water becomes more salty. Also, Sambhar is located in a dry region of Rajasthan in which summer temperatures get very high. Unlike water, salts don’t get evaporated and remain on the surface itself. All these reasons lead to increase in salt content of the lake and thats why the water of Sambhar Lake is salty.

History of Salt Ownership & Production of Sambhar Lake

The Mughals had appointed a governor who was in charge of the salt production at Sambhar Lake. However, things changed in 1709 when the joint armies of Jaipur & Marwar (Jodhpur) defeated the Nawab and took control of Sambhar Lake. Till 1949, Sambhar Lake remained in joint ownership of the Kingdoms of Jaipur and Jodhpur and they divided the revenue between them. The Government of Rajasthan took over the production of salt in Sambhar Lake in 1949.

The production of salt in Sambhar Lake is managed by the government-owned Sambhar Salts Ltd. (SSL) although a few private players are involved as well.

Sambhar Lake is Ecologically Important

Sambhar Lake has been designated as a Ramsar Site (recognized wetland of international importance) and is therefore ecologically important. The wetland is a breeding area for thousands of flamingoes and other migratory birds who come from as far as Siberia during the winters.

On a trip in late July, I was pleasantly surprised to spot a variety of birds in the waters of Sambhar Lake. Ducks were floating along-with few pink flamingoes. On two separate trips, I have spotted foxes, deer and nilgai roaming freely on the deserted stretch between Sambhar and Shakambari Devi Temple.

Bird lovers are also in for a treat here as Sambhar is a recommended place for bird watching. Flamingoes, storks, pelicans, sandpipers and ducks can be commonly seen. Sambhar Lake is the second largest breeding ground for flamingoes in India, after the Rann of Kutch. Dadu Dayal ki Chattri (Cenotaph) lies in the middle of Sambhar Lake where lots of pink flamingoes can be seen in the winter.

Banjaron ki Chhatriyan

Near Sambhar Lake Railway Station – Banjaron ki Chhatriyan looks like a grand monument especially in the evening light with the sun setting on the other side. I could not get much information about it although one local remarked that Emperor Akbar built the Banjaron ki Chhatriyan.

According to other locals, the Banjara tribe traded in salt procured from Sambhar lake and they exchanged it with carpets and dry fruits with traders from far off foreign countries. I am guessing it was also a part of the Old Silk Route Trade as Sambhar geographically lies on the route from Jaisalmer to Jaipur.

Development of Sambhar Lake by Rajasthan Tourism

The Rajasthan Tourism Department has put Sambhar Lake high on its list of development projects and plans to construct a Festival Ground, Cultural Centre, RTDC Hotel, Shopping Area in the region. There are also plans to lay down a separate line for a tourists in the form of a 4 bogey railway from Sambhar to Jhapok.

Cenotaph (Chhatri) near Shakambari Devi Temple

A Cenotaph accessed by a set of winding stairs built at a higher elevation than Shakambari Devi Temple is said to have been built by Mughal Emperor Jahangir in the 16th Century. It affords a 360 degree view of the entire surrounding landscape. It is a surreal sight to see the nothingness of the vast desert-like scenery; with water, salt and sand as far as the eyes can see.

Circuit House at Sambhar

Among the must visit attractions in Sambhar is the Circuit House standing witness to the town’s British history. It is the first Circuit House that the British built, in the year 1880 and is located in a peaceful, tranquil area of the town. It still has a lift operating through a pulley system to haul food and other items to the first floor (called-dumb waiter). There are 4 rooms in the original structure and its balcony offers a nice view of the town.

Click to view slideshow.

The Circuit House in Sambhar has recently taken over by a private firm. Many well known film personalities have stayed at Sambhar Circuit House after Bollywood found a liking to shooting in Sambhar. Amir Khan has stayed here as also has Hritik Roshan.

Salt Processing Plant & Salt Museum

The Salt Processing plant is a must visit to get acquainted with the process of salt extraction. Witnessing the salt carrying wagons and the narrow-gauge train is a memorable experience!

The Salt Museum is located near the Circuit House and it displays salt samples from all over India. It is housed in an old colonial building constructed by the British. Sambhar Salt Museum was closed when I visited. According to a local who showed me around, the structure in which the museum is located is more than 100 years old. There is also a map denoting ‘Sambhar Lake Water Sources’ built in front of the museum; albeit in a damaged condition.

Salt Train

While driving from Sambhar Town to Shakambari Devi Temple, we were lucky to spot the tiny narrow-gauge goods train passing on the banks of the lake carrying salt in its bogies. The engine was painted in a colourful blue and it felt like a toy train!

Naliasar

Naliasar is the site of archaeological excavations and is located at a distance of 4 kms from Sambhar. In an excavation conducted in Sambhar in 1934, a large number of terracotta figurines and stoneware were found. Most of these sculptures excavated from Sambhar are presently housed in the Albert Hall Museum at Jaipur.

Click to view slideshow.

Mini Rann of Kutch?

Although I’ve never been to the Rann of Kutch; Sambhar’s landscape resembles the Rann of Kutch in Gujarat. The night sky in Sambhar is apt for astro photography and gazing at the stars is an enthralling experience. If one if able to procure the required permission for camping on the lake, then it is possible to explore the vast lake by taking a walk on the salt bed.

Sambhar Feeni

Also, Sambhar is famous for a sweet delicacy – ‘feeni’. It is so popular that there is a well known Sambhar Feeni Wala in Johari Bazaar, Jaipur! One can savour the delicacy in Sambhar at one of the many sweet shops in town.

Where to stay in Sambhar?

Basic rooms are available for INR 500-600 at Krishna Guest House near Sambhar Town Bus Stand. Better options may be available at Phulera, 6 kms away from Sambhar.

The Pujari family who live in the same premises as the Shakambari Devi Temple have also constructed 2-3 rooms and are happy to let travellers stay there with prior notice for a nominal fee.

How to reach Sambhar?

Jaipur and Kishangarh are the nearest airports to Sambhar, both are less than 100 kms away. The railway station at Sambhar has trains from Jaipur, Jodhpur and Nagaur. It is possible to see the salt mounds when one travels by train to Sambhar.

Sambhar is well connected by road and the roads are fairly ok. Rajasthan State Transport buses ply regularly to Sambhar and tourist cabs can be hired for a day trip to Sambhar from Jaipur.

Click to view slideshow.

Cabs can be hired for local transportation and autos can be availed in Sambhar.

Distance between Sambhar and Shakambari Mata Temple is around 20 kms.

Also check : Samode Village : A Day Trip from Jaipur

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It was as unplanned as something could be. Arvind Bhai of (Jaipurthrumylens) had an invite for Dal Baati Choorma at a function in Samode and since we had discussed visiting Samode Village numerous times, I instantly said yes when he asked if I was interested in going! Not that Dal Baati Choorma wasn’t reason enough to go, especially when its the monsoon in Rajasthan. For the outsiders, Jaipur locals celebrate monsoon by organising community gatherings and serving Dal Baati Choorma and other traditional dishes. These gatherings are typically held in the outskirts of the city and this time the invite had come from Samode village.

Also read : Bundi – Charmed by the Magic of this Fairytale Town in Rajasthan.

We left from Jaipur at around 11 in the morning. Samode Village is located around 40 kilometres away from Jaipur and is on the road to Shekhawati. A large part of the road to Samode is the National Highway (To Bikaner); there is a diversion just before reaching Samode village. The weather was gorgeous and dark clouds filled the sky. The landscape and the low lying hills were in a generous shade of green and the typical barren colours of Rajasthan were nowhere to be seen. What a welcome change it turned out to be…

In hindsight, it was good that we had started off with our explorations before our super heavy feast of Dal Baati Choorma! I had been to Samode village only once before this; and that was just for a morning hike. We had climbed close to the entrance of the Samode Fort and had hiked back from a forest path which was leopard territory – as per the locals. It was then that I had really been intrigued by this lovely little hamlet.

As we reached Samode village, a local tour guide approached us. He also owned a small travel firm and was happy to show us around. I spotted some crumbling, gorgeous doors as we moved ahead on the single street main road of Samode. Like Shekhawati; Samode’s houses were brightly painted from the exterior. Frescoes had been painted outside almost every home and the architectural pattern felt quite similar to Shekhawati. Few of the houses resembled havelis, giving Samode a very regal flavour.

The entrance to Samode Village was through a huge gateway that gave the impression that Samode must have been a Kingdom or a thikana earlier. Our first impression hadn’t been all that great since we had to wade through ankle-deep water to get to Samode, courtesy of the overnight rains. We joked that with the cobblestone paths, we could have been in medieval Europe.

Samode is set in a bowl shaped valley ringed with low-lying hills. The monsoon had been inconsistent but had still painted the surroundings with shrubs of light green colour juxtaposed against the orange rocks. We entered one Haveli, courtesy of the local guide. The outside had been painted with welcoming elephants and the inside was as artistic too. The light inside seemed almost surreal; pretty doors with earthen pots kept for cooling water.

As we walked past the timeless lanes, children played forgotten games giving Samode an even more small hamlet feel. A few shops were open; a tailor went about his work nonchalantly and welcomed us for chai as we walked past his shop. There was a guy who was meticulously engrossed in making customised leather chappals; the products looked really nice and I wondered if I could come back someday and get some footwear made. After 10 odd minutes, we stood in front of an even more opulent doorway – It led to Samode Palace. Samode Palace was the erstwhile home of the royalty and is now run as a heritage hotel.

Read : A Quick Travel Guide to ‘Pink City’ in Jaipur

The hike that went past Samode Fort was something that people normally associating Rajasthan as a desert state should surely have a look at. And the fact that we went there during sunrise made it even more beautiful. The sun painted spectacular orange hues behind the mountains. The jungle was thick and we were happy to be safely back when we met a local (forest guard) who said that the entire region was leopard country!

We roamed around Samode village some more and as the sun made the weather humid, it was also time to go to the Dal Baati Choorma feast!

When the weather gods intervened after a hearty lunch and a cool breeze blew across the Jain temple close to Samode village, we turned our car in that direction and went for another round. This time we spotted some cool-looking graffiti on the streets. A few homestays had opened in Samode for tourists looking to explore a traditional Rajasthani village close to Jaipur.

A day trip to Samode from Jaipur is also not a bad idea at all, considering the fact that public transport is plenty and the distance is only 35 kms away. Day taxis can also be availed from Jaipur for around 1200 to 1500 Rupees maximum. The roads are excellent as well while its best to explore Samode village on foot.

Nostalgia swept over me as I penned down this post.

Sometimes one does not need to travel far away to have a memorable experience. Travel does not necessarily mean an out-of-the-world happening; it can also be the feeling of finding home in random places and making a safe space for those memories in the heart. 

Like Murakami says ‘I sometimes think that people’s hearts are like deep wells. Nobody knows what’s at the bottom. All you can do is imagine by what comes floating to the surface every once in a while.’

We travel so that someday when our hearts are inundated with memories; we can make this world a better place by sharing the stories.

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Memorable Historical Delights in and around Alwar – Sariska

Neelkanth Mahadev Temple Complex

A short drive from Sariska, is a temple complex with incredible carvings that is supposed to date back to the sixth century. It is said to have survived Aurangzeb only because bees chased him away from the location.

The crumbling Neelkanth Mahadev Temple Complex sits on a small plateau circled by low hills and the defensive walls of the Rajorgarh Fort. A winding road leads to this complex and provides some dramatic views on the way, making the journey every bit as intriguing as the destination.

The more than 200 odd temples in this complex are said to have been built between the 6th and 9th century.  The main shrine is that of Neelkanth or Shiva. This complex is yet another example of the depth and width of Indian art and intellect . The pillars in these temples have intricately carved mythological figures. The temple spire is still undamaged and can leave the viewer spellbound. A little distance away is a Jain temple built from orange-red sandstone, with a gigantic statue of the 23rd Tirthankar (Jain saint).

Anecdotal history suggests that the temples survived Aurangzeb because he was chased away by bees when he tried to attack the buildings. Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) maintains these temples. Many historians feel that the complex is worthy of being declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Neelkanth Mahadev is located at a distance of around 30 kms from Sariska.

Bakhtawar Ki Chhatri – Moosi Maharani ki Chhatri. 

Bakhtawar ki Chhatri – Moosi Maharani ki Chhatri is both an incredible piece of architecture and a memorial to Moosi’s undying love for Bakhtawar. It is a must visit for those who revel in the beauty of Rajput architecture and tales of love. Chhatris (cenotaphs) were an important element of traditional Indian architecture especially that of Rajputs, Marathas and Jats. The term literally translates into umbrella and therefore typifies structures with domed, canopy-like roofs.

The term chhatri is used to refer to two kinds of structures, the first being the purely decorative cupolas that usually mark the corners of the main roof. However it is the second type of structure that constitutes more common usage – ornate, stone pavilions built at the funerary site of important people. Such pavilions usually consist of intricately carved pillars that support the chhatri. Since chattris denote pride and honour, they were usually built at the cremation site of kings.

Bakhtawar Ki Chhatri, also known as the Moosi Maharani ki Chhatri, is a double storied edifice built in 1815 by Maharaja Vinay Singh in memory of his father Maharaja Bakhtawar Singh. It is an incredibly elegant structure that is shaped like a flower. The first storey is in sandstone colour while the upper storey and the roof are constructed in white marble.  The domed arches have exquisite floral designs that glisten in the sunlight. The ceiling is embellished with fading gold leaf paintings depicting mythological characters and scenes.

There is a certain poignancy about this chhatri made more so by the story behind it. Moosi was Bakhtawar’s mistress who was never given the status of a wife in her lifetime. When Bakhtawar died she jumped into the pyre along with him and committed sati as a wife would have done. She thus came to be regarded as his wife. Death gave her the husband that life held back. Footsteps of Maharaja and Moosi Rani are carved in marble inside the pavilion, and locals pay homage to them. It is located adjacent to the Alwar City Palace Complex.

Pandupol and Hanuman Temple

While in exile, the Pandavas are believed to have stayed for a while in the forest of Sariska in an area called Pandupol. There is a Hanuman temple in the region that is believed to be more than 5000 years old and was probably built by the Pandavas themselves.

In Sanskrit, Pandupol translates into the Gateway of the Pandavas. It is essentially a rock formation that resembles a gateway. Legend has it that while in exile, the Pandava Princes were passing by this area. A boulder in their path proved to be particularly obstinate and invited the wrath of Bheem. He whacked it with his mace and managed to make a big opening in the rockface for the Pandavs to walk through. Smashing the rock is also believed to have released a hidden stream; which still flows in the vicinity.

Pandupol is idyllic and looks straight out of an Amar Chitra Katha comic book. The ancient Hanuman temple in the proximity is much revered by the locals. Practically every ruin in India has a documented history as well as a popular one, the Hanuman temple is no different. Myth has it that one day Bheem was going to fetch water from the stream when he saw a frail monkey lying by the roadside, his tail sprawled across the rough track.

Bheem arrogantly asked the monkey to move his tail. The monkey claimed has was too ill to do so and requested the mighty Pandav to move it instead. Despite several efforts, Bheem could not. He then realised that the monkey was actually the Monkey God Hanuman and sought the latter’s forgiveness.

To commemorate this divine encounter, the Pandavas are said to have set up a small idol of Hanuman here, which probably became a temple later. Visitors driving down are allowed into the temples on Tuesdays and Saturdays by paying a small fee of two hundred and fifty rupees. Pandupol and Hanuman Temple are at a distance of 15-20 kms from Sariska, and lie inside the Tiger Sanctuary. 

Boating at Siliserh  

Siliserh Lake is a man-made lake that lies between Alwar and Sariska. A Lake Palace stands on its banks. One can enjoy boating at this lake and watch the sun go down. Siliserh Lake is an enchanting lake that runs along the edge of the Sariska Tiger Reserve. It lies serene in a valley surrounded by low, forest-clad hills, with little to mar its tranquility.

This beautiful water body is spread over 10 square kms, and offers dreamy views of the mountains in the winter fog. Apart from being a sight for sore eyes, the lake is also an important source of water for Alwar. Maharaja Vinay Singh had it built for his subjects. He also constructed the palace that stands on the banks of this water body as a token of love.

Trails leading from the lake to the foothills are said to have many interesting chattris; marking the funerary sites of many an important Rajput. The roads and tracks in the area are also popular biking routes.

The best time to visit this lake is early morning or late evenings, when the rays of the sun paint the water in surreal colours. The sleepy evening with the still, golden waters, the slowly setting sun, the lulling rhythm of the paddle – boating at Siliserh at sunset time is an experience that is the stuff of legendary memories. It is located around 20 kms from Alwar.

Alwar Museum in City Palace

Alwar Museum is located inside the Alwar City Palace. It has an eclectic collection of exhibits one of which is an illustrated Mahabharata drawn out on a single scroll. The Alwar museum is a gem hidden in the Alwar City Palace. A dimly-lit, sloping passage leads to the top floor where the museum is. The dark ramp, the indifferent ticket counter and the slightly run down feel of the approach do not portray the real treasures inside the museum.

The Alwar Museum is large, well maintained and home to amazing exhibits. It offers a glimpse into the famed lifestyle of Indian Maharajas as also the rich and continuously evolving culture of India.

The armory section is really fascinating. It houses shields, swords, pistols, rifles, daggers, spears, and a host of other weapons. The miniature paintings with intricate brushwork and bejeweled colours speak of the artist’s complete mastery on his craft. A particularly interesting exhibit is a single long scroll; this is the Mahabharata illustrated in the Alwar School of painting style.

The extravagances of the Rajputs Kings are on display too. Ivory slippers, solid silver tables, exquisite objects of art and utility, personal effects, stuffed remains of animals that they shot. Alwar Museum is a place where one walks in with curiosity and leaves with wonder.

While the places visited and memories are many, I think it calls for another article about this region. Alwar – Sariska is truly an explorer’s delight.

More posts :

Adventure in Rajasthan : Kankwari Fort

A Jeep Safari in Sariska Tiger Reserve

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Check : Agra beyond the Taj : Places and Experiences

A version of this article was also published as cover story in Air Asia In-flight magazine.

Architecture & Design of the ‘Pink City’

Maharaja Jai Singh II was the founder of Jaipur in the year 1727, when the capital was shifted from Amber. Literal translation of Jaipur means ‘city of victory’. Construction of the capital took 6 years, the original ‘walled pink city’ or ‘old city’ is enclosed by lofty walls and imposing gateways which physically demarcate it from the sprawling new parts of Jaipur.

Pink City’s most striking feature is its layout; wide, bolt straight streets that broaden into bigger spaces at intersections. The design is said to have been made in accordance with the Shilp Shastra. Shilp Shastras are ancient Hindu Vedic architectural designs. Jai Singh II is said to have encouraged traders and artists to settle here, giving tax incentives to merchants to ensure Jaipur’s economic prosperity. Thus, even today it comes as no surprise to come across locals from all parts of India who were settled here almost three centuries ago.

Read : Stunning Photographs from the Golden City of India : Jaisalmer

How did the name ‘Pink City’ come about?

I vividly remember when I had first set foot in the pink city almost two decades ago; it was easy to gawk at the stunning perfect symphony of this pleasant colour in the original walled city of Jaipur.

There are many versions of why Jaipur came to be known as the pink city. In 1876, Maharaja Man Singh II had the entire Old City painted in an orange hue to welcome the Prince of Wales (King Edward VII). While the above is a known fact; a very quirky legend says : ‘The journalist accompanying King Edward VII was colour blind. Although it isn’t clear who said what to whom, the truth is since then – Jaipur has come to be known as the pink city.’

Today all establishments and buildings of the Walled City are compelled by law to preserve the pink façade.

Daily life in the walled heritage city of Jaipur

Exploring the old city area of Jaipur offers a possibility to see the medieval alongside the modern. It is not unusual to see elephants go past cars in a traffic jam; while in the colourful streets old men donning turbans sell their wares to the nouveau riche generation. The old city is the heartbeat of Jaipur and is the preferred place for shopping even for the locals, because the prices are really competitive here.

Read : St. Francis Church, Kochi & India’s Colonial History

Typically, a building in the walled city in Jaipur would have shops on the ground floor and residences on the first floor. For the outsider, there can be sense of newfound calm even in the chaos of these crowded markets. The festivals of Makar Sankranti, Gangaur, Holi, Teej, Diwali and more are celebrated with much fanfare and traditional outlook in the pink city.

Overview of the lanes in the heritage walled city of Jaipur 

While the City Palace, Hawa Mahal, Jantar Mantar are on every visitor’s radar; a detailed perusal of the pink city lies beyond the touristy spots. They can be found in the tiny by-lanes of the myriad bazaars; lanes that are a world in itself, there are tiny shops selling gems, turbans, blue pottery, jootis (traditional footwear), sweets, printed saris and spices. This heritage walled city part has also been included in a tentative list of world heritage monuments by UNESCO.

The major gates for entering the walled city are Chandpol (pol means ‘gate’), Ajmer Gate and Sanganeri Gate (There are 7 gates in total).

Check : An Offbeat Guide to Udaipur

Chhoti Chaupar & Badi Chaupar

Although the grandeur of the Chaupars (loosely translated as city squares) has been significantly reduced by the Jaipur Metro Project, they still remain the most important addresses in the walled city area in Jaipur. Choti Chaupar and Badi Chaupar also serve as important address landmarks for locals and tourists alike as most of the popular places to visit and tourist attractions of Jaipur lie around them.

A few lesser known sights :

Iswari Minar Swarga Sal (also called Swargasuli)

This minaret is located near the City Palace, west of Tripolia Gate. One can take the winding stairs to the top of the minaret for excellent views over the Old City of Jaipur.

Govind Devji Temple

Lord Krishna’s image has been installed as the guardian deity of Jaipur’s rulers. Govind Devji Temple is one of the most popular temples in the walled city of Jaipur and the mangla aarti (early morning) is a stunning visual extravaganza of devotees swaying to chants.

The image installed here is originally from the Govindevji Temple in Vrindavan, and was brought to Amber in the late 17th century to save it from the wrath of Aurangzeb. Janmashtmi celebrations at Govind Devji Temple are a veritable mélange of celebrations with colourful flowers. The old city faithful worship this deity and there are some people (I know personally) who begin their day by going to Govind Devji Temple every morning.

Gaitor ki Chhatriyan (Royal Gatore)

Although Gaitor ki Chhatriyan lie outside the city walls, these royal cenotaphs do warrant a visit. The monuments are beautifully and intricately carved. Most cenotaphs are in marble and it is a great place to catch some calm away from the crowds of the old city.

Galta Temple & Surya Mandir

Perched between the cliff faces of a rocky valley, Galta Temple is also known as the Monkey Temple. It is an old settlement with holy springs made into pools.

Check : A Stroll in Bhangarh’s Gorgeous Ruins

Just on the ridge above Galta ji is the Surya Mandir (Temple of the Sun God). Both these temples can be accessed via a walk from the walled city.

Exploring the Old City – Heritage Walk in Jaipur

Starting from Choti Chaupar, one reaches Kishanpol Bazaar which is popular for its shops selling sherbets of various flavours like rose, saffron etc.

Walk across Bapu Bazaar and Sanganeri Gate to reach Johari Bazaar (the jewellery market) where goldsmiths and artisans practise the art of delicate meenakari work (glazed enamelling), a speciality of Jaipur.

Stroll past Badi Chaupar to Hawa Mahal and notice the Sawai Mansingh Town Hall on your left. It is a fascinating structure with pretty windows.

Peep into the shops at Maniharon ka Rasta, a recommended place to buy colourful bangles made of lac (resin).

Khazane Walon ka Rasta is where marble and stoneware carvers are at work, chiseling perfect statues of gods and mythological figures. Haldiyon ka Raasta and Gopalji ka Raasta can be visited to get a hands on experience of seeing the gemstone artisans at work with precious and semi-precious stones.

Jantar Mantar is an astronomical observatory constructed by Jai Singh II in 1728. In 2010 it was added to India’s list of World Heritage Sites by UNESCO. Visitors interested in learning the intricacies of the instruments are advised to take the guided tour. I highly recommend this just before sunset when the crowds have thinned and one can devote more time to understand the working of the instruments at Jantar Mantar.

Read : A sunrise in Jaipur on a stormy morning

Shopping in the Walled Pink City of Jaipur

Jaipur is a shopper’s paradise and is famous for crafts, gems, fine jewellery, brassware, blue pottery, leather footwear, rugs, tie and dye cotton fabrics, block prints, Kota doria saris, and papier mâche. Remember to bargain hard, the shopkeepers have seen it all.

The various bazaars are usually known for specific products :

Johari Bazaar for tie & dye sarees, jewellery and meenakari work.

Maniharon ka Rasta for colourful lac bangle;, seemingly millions of tiny shops in the market are established next to one another.

Khazane walon ka Rasta for stone carving.

Bazaar and shops near Hawa Mahal for both real and counterfeit antiques.

Purohit ji ka Katla (opposite side of Hawa Mahal) – for textiles at wholesale rates.

The old city favourite for shopping is Bapu Bazaar. Brightly coloured saris, jootis (traditional footwear) and perfumes make the street a favourite destination for Jaipur’s locals.

Prepare for an olfactory invasion at Badi Chaupar, where flower sellers sit with baskets full of fragrant roses, marigolds, jasmine, and tiny shops selling silver jewellery, and feather-light cotton quilts known as Jaipuri rajai.

Shop No. 307 in Kishanpol Bazaar has some of the best thandai (flavours to be used in milk) and sherbet flavours in Jaipur.

Check : The Tomb of Safdarjung in Delhi

Street Food in the Walled Heritage City of Jaipur

While the most popular joints for tourists are places like LMB (Laxmi Misthan Bhandar), authentic street food in Jaipur’s pink city is available elsewhere; and for a fraction of a restaurant’s price. There are also places that invoke a sense of legendary nostalgia, for the old timers.

Check : Street Food in Varanasi

Haldiyon ka Rasta for kachori samosa. While walking around Johari Bazaar, enter any bylane and follow the crowds to find the best savouries in Jaipur.

Samrat – For old world romance on a cold winter morning, the usual menu of kachori, samosa, mirchi bada. Their Badshah chai has a distinct flavour.

Kanji bade wala – sits on the corner near City Palace.

During festivals such as Teej, Ghevar shops spring up across the old city.

Murli paan bhandar to top it off. Have a meetha paan.

During winter – malpua and rabri for dessert. Winter also brings deliciousness in the form of breakfasts of doodh jalebi.

Expert Tip for exploring the Walled Heritage City of Jaipur : The battery operated autorickshaws buzz past traffic and are a recommended way to explore the walled city like a local. Prices per seat (Rs. 10) are fixed for Choti Chaupar and Badi Chaupar.

Must Have : Malai Kulfi at Ramchandra Kulfi shop & Pandit Kulfi shop.

Also read : Being a tourist in my own city – Inside Jaipur’s Hawa Mahal

Liked this post? Let me know how you explored Jaipur!

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Over the years, offbeat has become a word that has been used in a variety of ways. Some of the listings below are located very close to the popular tourist attractions of Udaipur; yet very few people explore the same. I shall also try to mention the amounts of money spent on the experiences listed below for the reader to get an idea of the same to plan a potential visit.

Offbeat Experiences in Udaipur

Udaipur Heritage Walk

One of the top activities in Udaipur is slow travelling around the old city and getting to know more about the heritage. One can do the heritage walk on their own or with one of the companies organising walking tours. Among other things on the heritage trail in Udaipur, there’s a beautiful clock tower.

Among other rustic experiences on the heritage walk, we come across old lanes with traditional shops; watch ceremonies at different temples. On the walk, it is also recommended to have a taste of the local delicacies of Udaipur since one will mostly be in the old city. Have a chai at one of the thelas in the old part and you might stumble upon an unknown historical delight from centuries ago!

Natraj Thali

This one was tricky for me; when you are staying at a relatives’ house it is difficult to go out and dine. One of the days me and my cousin headed out to the most popular place in town. Since now there are two Natraj Restaurants in Udaipur, we headed out to the old one courtesy of the local knowledge.

There was a short waiting time even though it was a weekday. Natraj Restaurant was filled with locals. When the food on the table was presented, we ate like there was no tomorrow. There were a variety of tasty dishes and it was all very tasty. I remember it cost us around 150 Rs. per person (a tad expensive) but the authentic nature of Natraj Restaurant made eating here worth it.

Tip : Go with a full appetite!

Government Museum inside City Palace Complex

While the City Palace Museum is the most visited place in Udaipur, it is this little museum that is mostly ignored by tourists. Entrance gate of the Government museum is close to the entry of the City Palace Museum, and strangely enough – since there are almost zero visitors you can have the entire place to yourself. The extensive collection of ancient statues and old scripts spread over an entire hall is one big reason to visit the Government Museum.

According to factual details : The 1890 Govt. Museum in Udaipur was formerly named as Victoria Hall Museum. It was originally established by Maharana Fateh Singh at Sajjan Niwas and was shifted to Karan Vilas in 1968. Among other interesting objects, it houses stone sculptures, miniature paintings, inscriptions, coins, arms, historical items and art objects belonging to the Mewar region.

Plus the entry charges are only Rs. 20. More reason to check it out.

Offbeat Views in City Palace Complex

Inside the City Palace Complex, a separate 50 Rupee entry fee is required to access a different part of the Palace. When I asked the guards about the views on the other side, I was told that there is nothing in that region and that I should not waste my money!

So, it was only by instinct that I thought lets take the ticket and wander around. And in retrospect, I am so glad I did it! There are two opulent Palaces run as heritage hotels and it is possible to explore these majestic delights on the same ticket.

The fifty rupee ticket gets you access to the region where Fateh Prakash Palace Hotel, Jag Mandir Island, Crystal Gallery & Durbar Hall & The Sunset Terrace Restaurant are located. The Crystal Gallery has one of the most stunning collection of objects made of crystal including crystal chairs but entry is an expensive affair at 500 Rupees and photography isn’t allowed inside. If one is not overtly concerned about the no photo rule, then a visit to the Crystal Gallery and the Durbar Hall can be combined.

Sunset Gazing at Sajjangarh Palace

A top idea is to reach the Monsoon Palace or Sajjangarh Fort at 3 in the afternoon and savouring the views till the sun sets.

Government Museum at Ahar

Located around 3-4 kms from main Udaipur city, Ahar is a small hamlet that seems to exist in its own time warp. There is no whiff of a tourist around the quaint lanes and shops selling musical paraphernalia line the streets of Ahar. The village is known to have been an ancient settlement of the royal family and ancient ruins are scattered in all corners of Ahar.

The Government Museum at Ahar comes as a glorious surprise. It is an unassuming building and one may be led to believe that it is closed due to the lack of activity around the building. Once you enter inside, the rich history of Udaipur and the surrounding regions is on display. It is a sizeable building and has a priceless collection of artefacts.

A few notable facts about the museum : 

• The Ahar culture was characterised by the diverse pottery, houses, copper objects, microliths, terracotta figurines, beads of clay, and rocks like agate and steatite.
• The Ahar culture is believed to be second only in town planning to the Harappans
• Aharians cultivated crops like wheat, barley, rice, millet and also grew green gram and black gram.
• Ahar culture is approx. 2000-3500 years old.
• The Ahar Museum has a rich collection of stone idols from the 7th to 15th Century AD.

Entry charges are only Rs. 10.

Ahar Cenotaphs

Ahar Cenotaphs are a big collection of chatris (cenotaphs) of the rulers. It is located on the left side of the road when you are in Ahar village just before the Government Museum. There are more than 300 cenotaphs in the huge complex. I was really surprised to see no entrance to walk inside the Ahar Cenotaphs complex even after walking around the periphery of the boundary wall.

And then on my way back, I saw that the door was open and quietly slipped in only to be asked for money by the caretaker if I wanted to click any photographs. Since I had already taken the photographs, I told him that I just wanted to see the complex. The cenotaphs are built in white and present a pretty picture with the evening colours.

Vintage & Classic Car Collection Museum

Even though the entry fee for the Vintage & Classic Car Collection Museum was quite steep (Rs. 300), visiting this place is worthwhile for a peek into India’s erstwhile grandeur and sense of luxury. There are 18-20 vintage cars enclosed in different garages with full descriptions of their make, year and engine specifications on an adjacent signboard.

On one side there are also luxurious looking horse carriages from earlier times. Among other vintage cars not to miss here are the Rolls Royce Phantom featured in Octopussy, and the Cadillac Convertible that was used by Queen Elizabeth on her visit to India in 1961. In a separate enclosure, there are also solar powered cycles and other interesting means of transport.

This Museum is located at Garden Hotel, directly on the opposite side of Sajjan Niwas Garden on the Gulab Bagh Road.

Street Art in Udaipur

An interesting feature of almost all tourist destinations is colourful art adorning the streets. Street art has recently become quite popular considering the fact that it beautifies the city and gives a fresh lease of life to the otherwise mundane walls.

I highly recommend covering all parts of the old city on foot if one is keen on exploring the street art scene in Udaipur. There are many hostels to stay for backpackers, and affordable and cheap guest houses that also have superb graffiti and messages. Also, in the instagram generation the colourful street art is a nice photo-op.

Arts & Crafts in Shilpgram

In the other post on Udaipur, I did write about Shilpgram but this place is so huge, there are many other experiences for the curious traveller. When we were walking aimlessly trying to find our way, our eyes stumbled upon a magicians showcasing his skills; it was really a fantastic experience that did not cost anything!

After moving ahead, it was a surreal moment to see ‘nail paint’ art created in front of our eyes! A man took a blank piece of paper and created it into a painting using only his nails… If you can’t believe it, see this video.

There are also a few museums in Shilpgram; the Gol Museum and tribal museum are worth seeing. The Gol Museum has an enviable collection of quirky objects and some really old and traditional instruments. In one corner of the complex, there is a small room where informative videos regarding different tribes and cultures of Rajasthan are played.

Photographs showcasing exhibits of local art, a door, and masks at the museum in Shilpgram.

Lake Pichola

The idyllic and serene man-made Lake Pichola is the highlight of Udaipur for most of its memorable views. It exemplifies the beauty of of the superb City Palace, havelis, ghats, temple towers and numerous other structures on the banks of the lake. One can spend hours enjoying the various colours of sunset at Lake Pichola.

 

 

A lesser known fact is that there was a drought which almost emptied Lake Pichola in the recent past. Among other interesting delights, there’s a pretty bridge on Lake Pichola connecting two parts of the old city. When the evening lights came on, the bridge resembled the ones in Venice and is maybe the reason for the sobriquet for Udaipur – ‘The Venice of the East.’

Other offbeat posts from other parts of India :

Offbeat Places Around Dharamshala – McLeodganj

A Backpacking Guide to Meghalaya

Offbeat Explorations in Leh

5 offbeat places to spend the entire summer in the hills

Finding the offbeat in Manali

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As is the case with so many people, we don’t really bother to explore places in our own state thinking that they can be seen at any point of time. Even though I am a Rajasthani, I can frankly state that I haven’t seen my own state in an extensive manner apart from the usual visits to Jodhpur, Pushkar, Ajmer, Jaisalmer, Bikaner, Shekhawati, Bundi, Chittaurgarh, Ranthambore, Alwar, Sariska and some other places like Bharatpur, Pali and Kota. I was in Jaipur scheduled to embark on the North Zone leg of the Doors of India Campaign in the last week of August; but that was not to be due to the Ram Rahim fraças in Punjab.

So when I sensed an opportunity of a few days, I immediately booked myself on a bus to the lake city of Udaipur and informed the relatives that I was coming over! Udaipur is known the city of sunrise and is also called the ‘Venice of the East.’ It is India’s most romantic city and has been recently in the news for becoming a favoured wedding destination for high profile people. And being the slow traveller that I am, it was decided that I should spend around a week in Udaipur. 2-3-4 days just don’t do it justice.

Udaipur : An Introduction & History

Tucked in the Aravalli Hills, Udaipur is built around four man-made lakes and is surrounded by gorgeous green landscapes. Udaipur was founded by Maharaja Udai Singh II in 1568. It was the capital of the erstwhile Kingdom of Mewar (after shifting from Chittaurgarh) and the kings are said to be direct descendants from the Sun. Their royal emblem is also of the sun itself. Udaipur has a proud Hindu history and has fought many battles to repel Turkish, Afghan and Mongol invaders. It still has a laid-back charm and is becoming Rajasthan’s most popular city for tourists. Udaipur is the top choice of holiday destination for Gujaratis, due to the proximity to Ahmedabad and the excellent condition of roads.

Top Attractions & Places to Visit in Udaipur

City Palace & City Palace Museum

Udaipur’s City Palace is the largest royal complex in Rajasthan and is constructed in light yellow stone on the banks of Lake Pichola. The massive building comprises of eleven different palaces constructed by successive rulers from the 16th Century to the 19-20th Century. When I got to the ticket counter, things had really changed a lot over the years, and the ticket prices had gone up too!

There are many gates for entry and exit inside the City Palace Complex and it is better to enter from one side and exit from the other side to enable the visitor to see everything. Once inside the palace, narrow passages connect the various mahals and courtyards, creating a confusing effect designed to prevent surprise intrusion by potential invaders. A large part of the palace is now converted into the sprawling City Palace Museum and a few parts of the City Palace have been converted into luxury hotels. I highly recommend visiting the City Palace as soon as it opens in the morning; so that you can explore the beautiful interiors at your own pace. I remember taking a total of 3-4 hours to explore the City Palace & Museum.

Highlights of City Palace

Although the entire palace is worth seeing, but sometimes one might miss these sights due to fatigue or just the constant grandeur.

• The gorgeous peacock mosaics in the 17th-century Mor (Peacock) Courtyard.
• The glass and mirror encrusted Moti Mahal.
• The extensive collection of miniatures featuring Krishna legends in Krishna Vilas.
• The blue room, the most photographed part of the City Palace Museum ! (You know what I’m referring to!)
• The exquisite Zenana Mahal (Palace of the Queens).

My favourite views and frames were from windows while walking from one palace to another. There are superb scenes of the pristine blue waters of Lake Pichola, on which the immaculate white marble Lake Palace appears to float.

Does the above photograph also remind you of the #DoorsofIndia Campaign?

Entry charges for The City Palace Complex – Rs. 30 and The City Palace Museum – Rs. 300.

Saheliyon Ki Bari

Since my relative’s house wasn’t too far away from Saheliyon ki Bari, I visited it on one of the mornings. It is a three hundred hundred year old garden that was made for the enjoyment of the 50 odd women attendants who came as a part of the princess’ dowry! In English, it can be loosely translated as Garden of the Maids of Honour. Construction was ordered by Sangram Singh II in the early 18th century. The gardens in Saheliyon ki Bari are centred on a square courtyard enclosing a large pool that is surrounded by other greens.

Saheliyon ki Bari is billed as Udaipur’s finest garden with maintained fountains, greenery, lotus pools, marble elephants spraying water and a fantastic variety of trees in different enclosures and lawns. The entrance fee is negligible and therefore it seemed like the favourite place for local families too for picnics and day out with kids. The lush environs are also a hangout place for young canoodling couples trying to get some privacy from the prying eyes.

A random conversation with a random stranger at this garden meant I had company for the next leg of the journey; he was an Army officer with a Royal Enfield bike at his disposal!!

Entry charges (if memory serves me right) are 20 Rupees.

Shilpgram

We reached Shilpgram after a super cool bike ride and crossed the extremely pretty Fateh Sagar Lake on the way. Shilpgram is a rural arts and crafts village which was established to promote and preserve the traditional architecture, music and crafts of the tribal people of various parts of India. It is located 3 kms out of town and has displays dedicated to the diverse lifestyles and customs of India’s rural population in different regions.

There are splendid cultural performances by various tribes in Shilpgram and also a small museum with really old exhibits but I shall cover that in the Offbeat Udaipur post. There are shops set up by artists in different corners inside the crafts village. In the high season, it can become extremely crowded with tourists. Shilpgram crafts village is spread in a large area surrounded by greenery and has artists from different parts of India living on site. Due to the open air feel, mosquitoes can make a killing. So don’t stick around after 4 in the evening!

 

 

It took us more than two hours to explore all the offerings of Shilpgram.

Entry charges for Shilpgram including camera are Rs. 100.

Jagdish Temple

Just outside the main entrance gate close to the ticket counter of the City Palace, Jagdish Temple is Udaipur’s most popular and respected temple. It was built in the year 1652 and  is dedicated to Lord Jagannath, an aspect of Vishnu. There’s a statue in black stone of Lord Jagannath as Vishnu. Jagdish Temple is a towering stone structure adorned with carvings. I was lucky to be there during the time of the aarti which is a divine experience also attended by many locals. The entrance of the temple is flanked by two elephants and presents a pretty picture with women selling colourful flowers to be used as offerings.

There is a signboard embedded in stone in an ancient language and photography isn’t allowed inside. As you climb the stairs of the temple and turn around, the bronze made statue of Garuda (vehicle of Vishnu) is visible. Among the carvings on the exterior of the temple; most are figures of Vishnu, scenes depicting life of Krishna and dancing apsaras (nymphs). If you look carefully, there is a fair possibility of chancing upon some erotic carvings too.

Bagore ki Haveli Museum

The rain clouds had started teasing at the Jagdish Temple itself and by the time we walked along the side lane to reach Gangaur Ghat it had started pouring. On the left side of Gangaur Ghat is the entrance to the 18th Century Bagore ki Haveli. The haveli was originally a structure belonging to a Prime Minister appointed by the Mewar Kings of Udaipur. Bagore ki Haveli is supposed to have 138 rooms and is built right on the banks of Lake Pichola.

The haveli is a huge structure of two-three storeys and is spread across multiple courtyards. A part of the Haveli building has been converted into a notable museum, and is arranged on two floors with various exhibits. The first room took me to a passage with a never ending puppet collection with windows overlooking the lake.

On the upper floor, there are several perfectly restored rooms with exquisite furnishings, artworks, and exhibits. Some rooms have musical instruments, traditional kitchen equipments and one glass cabin showcases a colossal turban that is believed to be the largest in the world. One of Udaipur’s must see experiences include the Traditional music and dance show that are staged here every night at Bagore ki Haveli. There’s a separate ticket for the same, but it is well worth it.

Entry Charges for Bagore ki Haveli Museum are Rs. 100.

 Sajjan Garh (Monsoon Palace)

After the mosquitoes started troubling me at Shilpgram, I decided to get out of there and then figure out where I wanted to go next. Although I had wanted to visit Sajjangarh, but I had no idea if evening / sunset time was the best time to be there! A chance conversation with a stranger at the chai place on the street meant I was headed to Sajjangarh at the right time. I paid an auto guy 50 Rupees and he dropped me to the base of the Sajjangarh Fort; there’s also the Sajjangarh Wildlife Sanctuary nearby. I hitched a ride in a private car to carry me up the 3-4 km distance to the entrance of the fort.

Sajjangarh was built by Maharana Sajjan Singh in the late 19th century. It was originally supposed to be an astronomical observatory but later turned out to be a summer retreat of the royal family. Sajjangarh Fort is perched on a hilltop around 300m higher than Udaipur and commands gorgeous views of the lake and Udaipur city on one side and the greenery of Aravalli mountains on the other side. It is also called the monsoon palace because the royal family desired to watch the monsoon clouds travelling across the countryside below from this very palace.

Sajjangarh feels like a neglected palace compared to the excellent maintenance of the other monuments in Udaipur and wears a forlorn look. When I asked the officer at the palace, he told me that Sajjangarh was abandoned because it was found impossible to pump water up to it.

Entry to the fort is through a colossal door and visitors are asked to move straight to the backside of the palace for the sunset views. At the time of my visit, due to renovation work going on in the interiors, I could not climb up to the seven floor observatory structure. I had to be content with the dazzling valley views from the base of the Palace and occasionally dreamed of how incredible it must be from the balcony of the fort.

Sunset at Sajjangarh with the clouds whizzing past will definitely remain one of my top memories of Udaipur. There is a large open space from where the greenery of the valley is visible and with the sinking sun is a sight to behold. Go out of the palace gate marvelling at the lights of Udaipur. Just remember to not stick for too long if you are alone and without a means of transport.

Sajjangarh palace is located inside the Sajjangarh Wildlife Sanctuary. There is a possibility of sighting some wild animals on the jeep safari. From the ticket gate, official transport is in the form of a jeep which takes visitors to Sajjangarh (Monsoon Palace). The to-and-fro charges for the same are Rupees 90.

Entry charges for Sajjangarh Monsoon Palace are 10 or 20 Rs.

Jag Niwas Island

The Jag Niwas Island is now better known as the Taj Lake Palace hotel. It was built in the mixed Rajput Mughal architecture style as a summer palace during the reign of Jagat Singh II in the mid-18th Century. Entry to the Jag Niwas Island is restricted for only those who are staying at the Taj Lake Palace Hotel. Sometimes during the off season, the hotel allows visitors to visit with confirmed lunch or dinner bookings! Surely one of the most romantic experiences in the utterly charming lake city of Udaipur. (If only I had the money, tongue firmly in cheek!) Time and again, Taj Lake Palace Udaipur has featured in the world’s top luxury hotels and is in part responsible for putting Udaipur on the tourism map.

Jag Mandir Island

Jagmandir island is one of the three structures built on the Lake Pichola. It was built by Maharana Karan Singh in the year 1620 and is designed around a large garden guarded by stone elephants. The main building here is the Gol Mahal, which has detailed stone inlay work of bluestone within its domed roof. There are also some signboards detailing the history of the island. It is said that the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan once stayed here when he was young and was so impressed by Gul Mahal that he used it as the model for building the Taj Mahal in Agra.

There are regular ferries taking visitors to Jag Mandir island and it is a nice place to be for a few hours for the splendid evening views. One can also have a opulent fine dine feel at the restaurant on Jag Mandir Island (Maybe a cheap man’s Taj Lake Palace!)

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When I was on the opposite side of Lake Pichola in the crowded lanes of the most popular tourist area, I briefly wondered if all the tourist destinations are the same. I could have been in Hampi, or North Goa, or Khajuraho, or Pushkar, or even Manali or Leh. The shops all sold the same stuff and the lanes were so crowded that it was impossible to even walk during the evening.

Yet, among all the chaos – some of Udaipur’s top homestays, guest houses luxury hotels and mid range hotels are within striking distance. Among the top recommendations to stay in Udaipur are Fateh Niwas Palace & Shiv Niwas Palace, Fateh Garh, Udai Kothi, Oberoi Udaivilas, Amet Haveli. 

This post has been made keeping in mind the usual popular places for tourists to cover in two days. I spent a total of 6-7 days in Udaipur and shall be making a separate post on my offbeat experiences and activities in this gorgeous little city in Rajasthan.

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Check : Doors of Varanasi : A Photo Story

Those who have been following me regularly on this blog and social media would have seen specific door posts from different places. Doors have long been fascinating for me and it was a sweet moment to see that the love had been noticed. As a professional travel blogger, it is immensely satisfying to work on a meaningful project that is in line with your passion. Thanks, Tata Pravesh and the entire team that worked on it, for this.

There was an immediate sense of comfort when it was revealed that this was for Tata Pravesh, a new brand of doors from Tata Steel. Doors that would have interesting history, architecture, intricate designs; doors that have seen royalty, doors that have seen entire kingdoms come and go. Normally, most people just walk past doors and even though some may be interested in a particular door; it is almost always forgotten after a glance. The Doors of India journey is an attempt to get everyone interested in doors and the stories that lie beyond …

#DoorsOfIndia is a campaign by Tata Pravesh documenting some unforgettable doors across various states in India.

My 2 week long journey began in Punjab; in Amritsar and our next stop was Panchkula before moving to Himachal Pradesh to document the rest of the doors.

Akhara Sangalwala in Amritsar

I had first visited Amritsar in 2015 and was blown away by the history and selfless door at Akhara Sangalwala. It was deemed apt to begin the North Zone journey from here. After reaching Amritsar, the entire team first made it to the Heritage walk to pay our obeisances at the Golden Temple and asked for blessings.

Brief detail about Akhara Sangalwala :

An ‘udasin’ is a person who is averse to the affairs of the world. Akhara Sangalwala is a place for the Udasin Sect and was established in 1781. An interesting fact is that ancient accounts state that even great Mughal Emperors like Jahangir and Humayun have walked through these doors.

For more details about the selfless door of Akhara Sangalwala, check the video.

Nirwan Priytam Dass, the founder of Akhara Sangalwala helped in bringing water from Ravi River to Amritsar via water channels to solve a water problem of the city.

Read : Doors & Havelis of Khichan – Part 2

RanjitVilas Farms, Amritsar

The second door of the North Zone journey led us to a castle like structure, run as a heritage hotel.

RanjitVilas Farms is a heritage family run homestay and has a vivid collection of antique doors. Most of the doors here are over 50 years old.

Our door in focus, the Zorawar Singh Gate is said to have been bought from a relative of Zorawar Singh’s family. For the uninitiated, General Zorawar Singh was a feared commander general of the Dogras and was responsible for the conquests of Ladakh, Tibet and Baltistan in the 19th Century.

More about the door of togetherness in the link below.

#DoorsOfIndia Video of RanjitVilas Farms, Amritsar

Ramgarh Heritage, Panchkula

Just as we enter the tiny village of Ramgarh, a massive arched entrance welcomes us. Ramgarh Heritage has a enviable mix of history and a collection of artefacts dating from the Rajput era.

There are pretty doors at turn of this heritage property. One of the doors has colourful paintings to compliment a very beautiful door frame.

The door in focus at Ramgarh Heritage is the door of the 150 year old Radha Krishna Temple. The rich history here is colossal in its nature and thereby signifies the door of royalty and respect.

To know more Guru Gobind Singh Ji’s connection with Ramgarh Heritage, do watch the video.

After these three doors, the journey moved to Himachal Pradesh. It was the middle of October and there was already a chill in the air in Baspa Valley in Kinnaur. That will be covered in a separate post, coming up next.

Read : The Havelis of Shekhawati

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Sometimes situations have a funny way of working out on their own and it was unbelievable that this trip to Jaisalmer turned out in the most perfect manner possible.

25 Stunning Photographs from Jaisalmer

Check : Adventure in Rajasthan : Kankwari Fort

My favourite memory of Jaisalmer is the random walks in and around the Jaisalmer Fort area. Plus, the local dhabas are experts at tasty food experiences!

Read : Agra beyond the Taj : Places and Experiences

Read : The Tomb of Safdarjung in Delhi

Among the other unforgettable experiences I had on this journey, one of the most amazing times was when I had to spend a night at a dhaba on the Sam sand dunes near Jaisalmer. Perhaps, it shall be justice to dedicate an entire blog post on the same!!

Check : Diwali Celebrations in Jaipur, in Pictures

The impeccable finishing of the top-most part of Salim Singh Ki Haveli is truly a sight to behold. Viewed from the front, it seems to have been designed like a ship.

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The interior and exterior of Patwa ki Haveli complex. The humongous homes make one think of the architecture and class of the Jains as these homes were made in the 19th century.

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I wish I could have spent more time in Jaisalmer, but then thats always another excuse to go back!

The taste of ‘ghotua‘, a delicious sweet best bought at RMB in the lanes of Jaisalmer signals that I should end this post. Thank me later when you eat that slice of heaven!

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