The distance between Karwar to Gokarna is 61 kms and it took almost 2 hours.

In Gokarna, it was a lucky day to hitch a ride and get dropped somewhere close to Om Beach.

After a day or so trying to blend in to see or experience the so called hippie vibe of Gokarna, it seemed just natural to explore the town and perhaps live like a local. The food scene of Gokarna is quite legendary!

The rest of the days in Gokarna were spent just ambling around, eating satisfying meals at small eateries and relishing the essence of doing nothing and feeling great about it!

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Read : The Goodness of Strangers in Kerala

Anecdotes, photographs and a travel guide to Kochi :

Introduction and History of Fort Kochi or Fort Cochin

Most travellers choose Kochi as the first stop to the popular tourist state of Kerala; with convenient flight connections from all big cities in India. Fort Kochi (or Cochin) has the proud distinction of being the oldest and first European settlement in India, and retains a charming and bucolic feel. This ancient town’s complex history is reflected in a medley of distinct Indo-European architectural styles. Fort Kochi boasts of a classic mixture with Portuguese, Dutch, British and traditional Kerala houses adorning the streets of Malabar’s crown jewel. It was a massive surprise for me to come across Gujarati signboards advertising mithai walas in Mattancherry!

In the present day, Kochi (or Cochin, as it was known earlier) comprises of the following areas : Mattancherry, Fort Kochi and the commercial hub of the city; Ernakulam.

Among the plethora of sights and experiences in Kochi include 

• Mattancherry’s warehouses filled with Kerala’s much priceless spices like pepper; jostling with new age street art.
• The timeless Jew Town, with the oldest Synagogue in the Commonwealth and antique shops selling secret finds. 
• Fort Kochi for a Kathakali performance, choose your fresh seafood with a sunset cruise and feel good about life! 

History of Kochi or Cochin

The Portuguese came looking for pepper and arrived in Kochi in the year 1500 AD. They constructed Fort Immanuel (that signifies the fort in Fort Kochi) and St. Francis’ church; and transformed Kochi from a tiny fishing hamlet to a bustling town. The Dutch then took over and ruled Fort Kochi for more than 100 years, from 1663 until 1795. The British took over from the Dutch and only left with India’s Independence in 1947.

An intriguing fact is that Fort Kochi was a multi-ethnic society even before the Europeans arrived. According to legend – St. Thomas, The Apostle arrived in Kochi in 52 AD and gave Kochi its first Syrian Orthodox Christians. The Jews arrived in 70 AD, as a result of the First Jewish – Roman War’s siege of Jerusalem. 

Kochi was formed with a stroke of luck in 1341 AD – A flood created a safe natural port in Fort Kochi that was seen as an alternative to Muziris – which was the main harbour on the Malabar Coast. The royal family moved to Kochi from Muziris in 1405 firmly establishing it on the map.

Must Visit Sights & Experiences in Kochi 

Chinese Fishing Nets 

The Chinese fishing nets were introduced to Kochi by traders from the court of Kublai Khan, sometime between the 14th & 15th century. These humongous nets are set up on bamboo poles and require four men to control them. They remain a grand reminder of Kochi’s historic trade ties with the far East. The best time to watch them in action is from close to the Vasco da Gama Square in Fort Kochi at sunset time. Strolling around the Chinese fishing nets is free but if you want to see the fishermen in action, a tip is appreciated and they will explain the functioning.

Mattancherry Palace

Despite being built by the Portuguese in the 16th Century; Mattancherry Palace is more commonly known as the Dutch Palace. The Portuguese gifted it to the Raja of Kochi as a token of thanks for the trading rights granted to them. When the Dutch took over Fort Kochi in the year 1663, they remodelled the Mattancherry Palace in an extensive manner and the name ‘Dutch Palace’ has stuck since then. 

It looks unassuming from the outside but hides a wealth of riches in its two storey interiors! The vivid murals in some of the rooms are excellent examples of Kerala’s hardly known school of painting. The prized collection includes coronation robes of past Rajas, palanquins, Dutch maps of Old Cochin and royal family portraits, among other things.

Paradesi Synagogue in Jew Town

Although Kochi’s first Jewish settlers arrived in 52 AD; the Paradesi Synagogue was built more than 1,500 years later. Nondescript from the outside, one might entirely miss the Synagogue in the jumble of buildings in Jew Town! Paradesi Synagogue is the oldest active Synagogue in the Commonwealth and the Jewish community of Cochin has the distinction of being among the oldest Jewish communities in the world. (Paradesi = foreigner)

Visitors are only allowed to click photographs of the 18th century clock tower in the outdoors. Indoor photography is strictly not allowed and that means we must gaze longer at the incredibly beautiful blue and white ceramic floor tiles. These Cantonese tiles are very unique as every tile is hand-painted, all 1100 of them! Also notice the immaculate Belgian chandelier hanging from the ceiling. Old Torah scrolls with crowns presented by the Maharajas of Travancore and Cochin are also kept in the Paradesi Synagogue.

Only a handful of Jews remain in Kochi (around five-six), as most of them migrated to Israel in the 1940s. Prayer ceremonies are held at the Paradesi Synagogue when the minyan (minimum number of 10 men required for traditional Jewish public worship) is met.

St. Francis Church 

Originally built by the Portuguese in the early 16th Century, St. Francis Church is India’s oldest European church. Vasco da Gama was buried here when he died in Kochi; although his body was later moved to Lisbon in 1538 AD.

St. Francis Church, Kochi & India’s Colonial History

Santa Cruz Basilica 

The stunningly beautiful Santa Cruz Basilica in Kochi is one of the finest examples of Roman Catholic churches in entire India. It was built by the Portuguese in the early years of the 16th Century. The architectural style of the Santa Cruz Basilica is Gothic and I recommend morning / evening time for the best light for photography.  

Hill Palace at Tripunithura

I must thank Johann for taking me to this particular place as I was not aware of Tripunithura at all. The Hill Palace of Tripunithura has now been converted into a museum. The 17th Century wooden mandapa (hall) featuring carvings of episodes from the Ramayana is a classic exhibit. The annual festival held at the Shri Poornathrayeesa Temple in October-November on the way to the Hill Palace is a grand celebration.

Spices in Kochi

Even though the cacophonous trade around spices in Kochi has reduced considerably these days, the sorting warehouses still exist and function like they have done for hundreds of years. In Kerala, pepper is still sometimes referred to as black gold and when you are visiting, it makes sense to buy some spices straight from the source! Kochi International Pepper Exchange on the Jew Town Rd in Mattancherry was the place where you could until quite recently witness the bidding of different varieties of pepper; but the bidding is now done electronically. Among other spices; there is fine quality ginger, cloves, mace, star anise, nutmeg, cardamom. 

Traditional Kerala Cuisine 

Kochi is an excellent place to try the mind-boggling variety of traditional food of Kerala. Among the recommended dishes are : Puttu served with Kadala curry – a fine rice powder mixed with grated coconut steamed in a mini cylinder served with mildly spicy chickpea stew. Idi Appam and Kerala style egg curry – String hoppers with and spice rich tomato egg curry. Appam and vegetable stew – steamed rice pancakes served with vegetable curry in coconut milk. Malabar Parotta paired with numerous meat dishes. 

Traditional feast (Sadhya), is a multi-course meal extravaganza served on a banana leaf. There’s rice, ghee, variety of stews and curries like sambar, rasam, pachadi, appalam, avial and the last course is the sweet delicacy payasam. 

Kathakali : Kerala’s Classical Art

When in Kochi, visitors have a great chance to attend Kerala’s well known classical art form – kathakali. Kathakali combines various theatrical and performance elements, and is said to have developed during the 16th century. Traditionally, Kathakali performances are held for entire nights during festivals. In Kochi, however, a number of Kathakali performances are held for tourists in the Fort Kochi area and there is a reasonable fee for the 1-2 hour show.  

Sunset Cruise 

Sunset cruise time in Kochi is when the sun casts beautiful orange hues in the sky and a mellow breeze blows. There are numerous companies offering sunset cruises and tickets can be booked at the jetty counter in Fort Kochi. 

Dutch Cemetery

It was an unplanned stop when I came across the closed Dutch Cemetery on a walk in Fort Kochi. The Dutch Cemetery was established in 1724 and is closed to visitors unless you can grab hold of the caretaker! The tombstones at the Dutch Cemetery are said to be the an authentic record of the hundreds of Europeans (both Dutch and English) who lived and died here during the colonial rule of Kochi.

Where is the ‘fort’ in Fort Kochi? – Fort Immanuel 

Fort Immanuel was built by the Portuguese in the 16th century, and is the Fort after which Fort Kochi was named. It was completely destroyed by the Dutch and the British. In the present day, only the remnants of a few walls can be seen on a walk from the Vasco Da Gama square in Fort Kochi.

Bolgatty Palace 

Bolgatty Palace was built in 1744 and has the distinction of being among the oldest Dutch palaces outside of The Netherlands built by the Dutch. It lies on Bolgatty Island which is accessible by ferry.

Cherai Beach

Cherai Beach is about 30 kms from Fort Kochi. The best way to reach here is via the ferry from Fort Kochi to Vypin Island and then take a short bus ride to reach Cherai Beach. The sunset at Cherai Beach is especially beautiful. 

Kochi Muziris Biennale

Every two years, the Kochi-Muziris Biennale is held in Kochi. It is one of the largest art exhibitions in India; and has resulted in some fine art on display. 

Street Art 

The entire Fort Kochi area is full of vibrant street art, and is best explored on an unplanned walk in the tiny nooks and crannies. The graffiti with interesting themes and messages is refreshing and instrumental in bringing the old buildings to life. 

Old Kochi Heritage Walk

Chinese fishing nets, a Jewish synagogue, Kathakali performance, a ruined Portuguese Fort, Spice markets, India’s first European church and 17th Century Dutch homes can all be found on the Old Kochi Heritage walk.

Start walking from Vasco da Gama Square, where you can see the cantilevered Chinese fishing nets lining the shore, then stroll along the Church Road to reach St. Francis Church. Keep walking to see the signboard for the Dutch Cemetery Road, passing the cemetery on your right, and the crumbling walls of Fort Immanuel. Continue the walk to reach Bastion Street and follow the signboards to gaze at the stunning Santa Cruz Basilica.

Among the old colonial houses to be seen on the Old Kochi heritage walk for the blend of architecture are Thakur House, the Jewish Koder House (run as a heritage hotel), Pierce Leslie Bungalow, Ballard Bungalow, Bastion House built to guard the harbour on the old Dutch Fort’s Stromberg Bastion and Malabar House. Also worth a look is Bishop’s Bungalow for the Indo-Portuguese museum. All these old colonial houses are located in Fort Kochi and are accessible on the walk.

A Day in Kochi

Start the day with the Old Kochi Heritage Walk; breakfast at Kashi Art Cafe for excellent coffee and cakes. Head to Mattancherry via a rickshaw to visit the Mattancherry Palace or Dutch Palace and also the Paradesi Synagogue. Also peruse the antique shops and some of the spice shops as well. Enjoy lunch at the local favourite Paragon or Kayees Rahmatullah Café on the Gujarati road in Mattancherry. Spend the evening at Tripunithura Palace and back to Fort Kochi for dinner at the Old Harbour Hotel.

Where to eat in Kochi?

Among the best local recommendations are Paragon in Edappally, Kayees Rahmatullah Café for Biryani. In Fort Kochi, David Hall Gallery & Café, Kashi Art Cafe for coffee and café food while Brunton Boatyard, Pepper House and 1788 (restaurant at Old Harbour Hotel) are all classic fine-dine restaurants.

How to explore Kochi?

It is best to take the pleasures of Fort Kochi by walk as all the sights are accessible by foot and the distances are small. For longer distances; app based taxi services like ola, uber, cab be used. Autos and local buses are easily available too. A unique way to explore Kochi is by ferry. 

Ferry : The ferries are a cheap way to get around Kochi’s main areas considering the traffic at rush our. Regular government ferries ply from Fort Kochi and the different islands and areas are all well connected by ferries as it is the mode of transport that the locals use.

When is the best time to visit Kochi?

July to September is monsoon time and thats when Kochi is at its prettiest in the bountiful rain and greenery. November to February is commonly the most favoured time when the temperatures are bearable. Hotel prices are at their highest in the peak winter season.

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Also, the theory of Chettinad food being spicy was also turned on its head after a few meals; the spice levels being quite mild and the use of spices was to flavour the food in a balanced manner than to make it overpowering to the palate! Isn’t this what travel is all about? To let us experience for real what we have only read so far.

After about an year and a half of ‘living’ in the mountains; spending last winter in Kasar Devi, Uttarakhand – and then the next year in Kullu Valley; we were really missing the raw feel of travelling in unfamiliar territory and thereby ended up booking tickets to Chennai. At the outset; it felt like a sea change upon landing in Tamil Nadu. The weather was comparatively mild in Pondicherry and Auroville and that sort of allowed us to somehow adjust to the unusually hot weather in March.

The drive from Pondicherry to Chettinad was memorable as it was overcast the entire day and that turned the countryside into a veritable shade of green. We left from Pondicherry at about 8 am after a quick breakfast of idli, sambar vadas from a roadside stall. On one of the short stops, it was nice to sip sweet tender coconut water and bite into chunks of plump sugarcane sticks being sold on the road.

It started pouring as we neared Tiruchirappalli, and it made for an excellent stop at a small coffee shop on the way – it advertised Kumbakonam degree coffee and it definitely had a unique strong flavour to the steaming mugs of coffee. We saw men and women working in the submerged paddy fields and as we neared Visalam, I had a short glimpse of a fort on a rocky outcrop and made a mental note of asking more about it.

We were shown the way to the palatial Chettinad Room and informed that lunch was ready to be served in the aptly named ‘Sapadu Shala’, (literally food room). The welcome drink Chukku kaapi made with dry ginger and palm jaggery was tantalising in taste. Lunch was served in a banana leaf and included a delicious array of dishes that made me wish I had a bigger appetite / stomach!

The Sapadu Shala was housed in a traditional Chettiar kitchen and it was a memorable sight to notice that traditional brass utensils were used for cooking as well as for decor to provide an authentic experience of a Chettinad mansion. The dishes served are homemade lemon pickle, onion pachadi, kar paavakai varuval (bitter gourd fritters), podalangai poriyal (stir fry snake gourd), kodamilagai mandi (capsicum+garlic mix), pookose poriyal (cauliflower stir-fry), vazhakkai varuval (raw banana snack), nei sadham (ghee rice), aavarakai sambar (broad beans sambar), sundavatha kulambu (bitter berries mix), rasam, curd and payasam.

My biggest and most pleasant surprise at Visalam was the abundance of greenery in the outdoor spaces and the riot of bougainvillea blooms in different colours like white, purple, red, pink, yellow (maybe I missed a few other colours!). The flowers spread like a carpet on the grass and with the breeze blowing in the open air courtyard spread bouts of happiness. I spotted eclectic cast iron chairs in the ‘garden café’ – the usual haunt for breakfast at Visalam.

One of the doors opened to bring forth the sight of the swimming pool and after the longest break largely caused to covid; it called for a short tryst in the welcoming cool waters. The sunset colours were most epic as we climbed up on one of the rooftops for a better view. As night fell, the sound of cicadas filled the air reminding us that we were in a palatial home alright; with the right mix of nature’s gifts.

Siva (staff at Visalam) charted out next day’s plan and since the weather was excellent for the time being, we decided to go on a leisurely heritage walk across Kanadukathan. The staff at Visalam is mostly employed locally and it is delightful to hear their anecdotes while they narrate the stories. I was astounded at the grandness of the Chettiar homes (built between 1850 to 1950) and when Siva pointed out that some of the homes were so huge that 1 home covered an entire street; I had to actually go back and check every street to confirm the same and it indeed turned out to be true.

Some of the mansions owned by the Chettiars had 60 odd rooms (a few even boast of 100 rooms) and a typical mansion would have a garden and their own well. The Chettiar mansions were opulent with use of teak, chandeliers and glass from Burma, Belgium and Murano (Italy) respectively and a hallmark of these houses was the intricate wooden work on the doors, pillars and even on the ceiling.  

A common theme among the mansions was that almost all of them seemed to be uninhabited. Siva took us across to a mansion that was in a family dispute and had an immaculately maintained half part of the house while the other half was in a derelict and crumbling condition. We also came across village ponds with temples constructed around them that served as water sources in the earlier days and also in the present times with well maintained clean water.

Evening was fast approaching and even though we felt like continuing the walk; the lure of fresh filter coffee was bait enough for us to return to Visalam. From 4 to 6-630 pm in the evening and 7 to 10 am in the morning, Geetha (staff at Visalam) is in charge of tea and coffee and I have no hesitation in saying that the filter coffee and masala tea at Visalam was the best during our entire Tamil Nadu trip.

Dinner was served under the skies by the pool and was an exotic mix of traditional ingredients made in a fusion style – all thanks to the chefs and Siva. The attention to detail was so immaculate and the experience so nicely personalised, I was compelled to ask Siva if there was a menu for guests or if he was a champion in reading their minds and knowing what they wanted to eat! It is the norm to eat a little more than usual when you are in Chettinad and that necessitated a walk around the pool. After gazing at the stars for a while, we decided to call it a night and slept in the cozy four-post bed looking at the Burma teak ceiling.

We woke up and rushed to get our dose of morning chai and filter coffee and ended up walking bare-feet in the lawn while listening to birdsong. It is delightfully relaxing and while Siva has made a hectic to-see list for the day; I am mentally prepared to take it slow. We have a light breakfast of the usual idli, podi dosa, uttapam, ragi upma and leave at 10 am.

What to see in Chettinad?

Athangudi Palace – Athangudi Periya Veedu

Hardly 10 odd minutes drive from Kanadukathan, the Athangudi Palace is a stunning Chettiar mansion with a dazzling hall. There are 2 young women at the entrance who ask for a 50 Rupee entry fee but language issues mean I couldn’t really ask them about the history of the Palace and resign myself to internet research for more details. Most of the rooms of the Periya Veedu are closed but it is the main hall that is the highlight here; and it comes as no surprise that it is a popular shooting location.

Athangudi Tiles

The defining feature of the mansions of Chettinad is the use of exclusively handmade tiles made in Athangudi and our next stop was to visit a tile maker. I spotted a tour group bus outside their premises and the eagerness of one of the managers to get us to ‘make our own tiles’ rather than simply explaining how the tiles were made meant we went for a quick perusal by ourselves and figured the different stages of the designing of these unique handmade tiles. The Athangudi tiles come with colourful patterns and are used on the floors, on the walls or even on the ceiling!

Sri Solai Aandavar Temple

It was nice to visit a temple in this part of the country and observe the rich architecture. There were a lot of locals also visiting the temple and the shaded part was a welcome break from the relentless sun.

Visalam Owners House, Kottaiyur

Aachi (Visalam House’s owner) is wonderful to talk to and she made sure we were shown nook and corner of the grand house. The hall had a grand ceiling decorated with yalis (mythical creature) and the inner courtyard with majestic round pillars made with Burma teak. She asked for a buttermilk to be served to us to serve as a coolant. Aachi affectionately means – grandmother.

Murukku Factory

This place in Kottaiyur was very authentic and ladies were frying murukku on firewood and making other sweets and snacks. We bought a packet of freshly packed murukku and wondered what all did they make! Later, after coming back Siva remarked that the ladies also made adirasam (a traditional sweet in Tamil Nadu.)

Karaikudi Cotton Weavers

Chettinad and Karaikudi region have a rich history of cotton weaving on handloom. We visited one of the cotton weavers and saw the excellent quality of sarees they wove.

Karaikudi Antique Market

A cluster of shops on the Muneeswaran Kovil street, Kallukatti in Karaikudi is more popularly known as the Karaikudi Antique market courtesy of the stuff sold coming from Chettiar mansions. The collection in some of the shops is excellent but the prices are quite inflated. Honestly, I think the shops have understood the game and quote 20 times the price of a product leaving you with almost no chance of buying it at a fair price.

It is excruciatingly hot with the sun beating down today and with no clouds to shield us, we get back to Visalam at 3 pm and immediately request for curd rice to be made for lunch. Siva is disappointed, having planned an elaborate meal for us. He coaxes us into sharing a vegetarian platter on a banana leaf, along-with the curd rice of course! I am especially enamoured by the carrot payasam.

We are advised to rest for a while because it is very hot outside. Once evening descends, we go for a short walk exploring the streets of Kanadukathan and are happily surprised at stumbling upon more Chettinadu mansions. There’s a curious looking place and it turns out to be a merchant selling freshly cold pressed coconut oil, groundnut oil and sesame oil. It is an especially pleasing sight when we see a spectacular sunset with the sun as a huge ball of fire. We come back to Visalam and wonder how will we manage to go to Madurai which is said to be even hotter than Chettinad!

Dinner is served early and is a simple affair for our tired tummies. We call it a night and wake up early the next day to enjoy seconds of the excellent masala chai.

CGH Earth Visalam, Kanadukathan

Visalam was a house built by KVAL Ramanathan Chettiar for his eldest daughter, Visalakshi, more than 100 years ago. Visalam has been splendidly restored by CGH Earth keeping in mind the aesthetics of the traditional architecture of the Chettiars. The Chettiar community of this region were prosperous traders and their palatial houses are standing testaments to their sense of class. Visalam is a fine example of the Chettiar’s aesthetic sense that was grand in its conception and painstaking in its details. Visalam is a heritage Chettiar mansion preserved in time and and today it is almost like a respected museum, having preserved almost everything of its original character and interiors from the time it was built. The furniture is period in style, flawlessly crafted and made from the finest Burma teak.

Contact : Phone – +91 484 4261711, Website : www.cghearth.com/visalam
Email – contact@cghearth.com  

Chettinad region is similar to Shekhawati not only in the arid and dry weather conditions but also in the stories of its inhabitants – Nattukottai Chettiars are businessmen who made their fortunes through businesses in Southeast Asia; mostly in Burma, Malaysia and Singapore. They used to trade in timber, gems, salt and precious metals. There are about 74 villages and an estimated 15000 mansions in Chettinad in the present time boasting of the use Carrara marble Venetian chandeliers from Italy, British ornamental steelwork from Birmingham and fine Burmese teak.

Note : I stayed at Visalam on a collaboration. The words and opinions on this blog are my own, as always.

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When Kerala Tourism got in touch for a unique campaign called ‘Human by Nature’, it was an apt time for me to dig in through years of memories and note down some unforgettable experiences.

Human Stories of Kindness from across Kerala

Heritage Quarter Walk in Fort Kochi

Walking through the streets of Fort Kochi was like walking through many centuries of history. Since the 13-14th Century, Kochi has been frequented by Dutch, Arab, Chinese, Portuguese, and British traders. Even the hostel that I was staying in was in an old building and had a pleasing feel. The Heritage Quarter area of Fort Kochi is especially endearing and is full of heritage delights at every turn.

Since there were not many people at the hostel during the off season, one of the local guys was more than happy to show me the lesser known lanes of Fort Kochi.

Kochi was a multicultural hotspot in the days of yore where people of many different ethnicities, religions and nationalities lived together. Among the most varied sights are St. Francis Church, The Dutch Cemetery, remains of Fort Immanuel (built in 1503 AD). Fort Kochi is also dotted with old Colonial-style houses, most of which are in good condition and some of them have been converted into hotels. Among the prominent old colonial houses to be seen are Vasco House, Bastion Bungalow, Koder House, Bishop’s House.

Local Cuisine of Kerala

In the touristy area of Fort Kochi, I wasn’t sure if the restaurants and cafés would serve me authentic Kerala food. It was by a sheer stroke of luck that I stumbled upon a tiny eatery located close to the hostel. Everyday, they would serve traditional Kerala cuisine on a banana leaf which also looked pretty in addition to being very tasty!

I got served idi-appams, puttu with Kerala style egg curry for lunch. I would roam around Fort Kochi area and only tried eating at one of the cafés once. I figured the gentleman at the small dhaba was my best bet of the local cuisine of Kerala. It was exotic to try the pink coloured water at first but when the locals told me about the health benefits, I was hooked to it.

On subsequent trips to the Malabar Coast and Wayanad too, I ate at local eateries all the time. My most memorable instance of human connection in Kerala is dining at a one bench eatery run by an old man on the link road near Chundail in Wayanad. With no common language to make a conversation, the old man ensured I was fed well and used to only charge 40 Rupees for a meal. Since that was the only eatery in the vicinity of the hostel, I ended up spending a lot of time there and was happy to slip in a 100 Rupee note into his pocket when I left!

Read : India’s French Colony : Pondicherry, A Photo Story

Kerala Sadhya

Sadhya is a traditional Kerala meal that is served on a banana leaf. In Kerala, it is customary for every important function or festival to be graced with a serving of Sadhya.

Sadhya comprises of more than 24 dishes including par boiled red rice, avial, koottukary, puliserri, olan, sambar, rasam, savouries, pickles, pachadi, payasam. Sadhya is a dazzling array of flavours that I will remember for a lifetime. On a trip to Wayanad, I was lucky to be served Sadhya by helpful locals.

In the earlier days, Sadhya used to be served at feasts and people used to eat it in a communal seating by sitting on the floor. In the modern times, Sadhya is also served at specialised eateries and is served on a banana leaf in the contemporary style table and chair restaurants.

Exploring Mattancherry on a Walk

Mattancherry is the traditional trading area of Kochi. Over 500 years, it has witnessed an influx of migrants, traders and invaders. I was able to explore some offbeat sights of Mattancherry thanks to Johann (fellow blogger and resident of Kochi).

Among the old sights to visit in Mattancherry are Calvathy Jamath Mosque, Mattancherry Palace, and Pardesi Synagogue. Pardesi Synagogue in Jew Town has beautiful Belgian chandeliers, and hand-painted Cantonese tiles from China. The nearby lanes are filled with cafés, antique shops and spice shops.

In the present times too, Mattancherry reflects this ethnic and cultural diversity and is a curious mix of the old and new; with traditional streets and businesses jostling with quirky street art and many old structures converted into heritage hotels.

Spices of Kerala

The spices of Kerala are what attracted the Europeans to India’s shores. The first European traders arrived in Cochin in the 16th Century and started competing for trade with the Arab merchants.

I got interested in Kerala spices on a spice plantation walk in Vythiri, Wayanad. The fresh breeze in the forest, with coffee growing and the aroma of the spices is delightful.

When I was in Kozhikode, a few helpful locals directed me an authentic local place to buy all the spices of Kerala. I was able to buy cloves, cardamom, pepper, cinnamon, nutmeg, star anise, nutmeg, caraway seeds, mace at very reasonable prices. My bag smelled of the spices even 2 months after my Kerala trip!

Neelakasham Pachakadal Chuvanna Bhoomi

This is an unexpected addition to this post! It is a roadtrip based Kerala movie that literally translates to ‘Blue Sky, Green Sea, Red Earth’. I have seen this movie numerous times and it remains my first memory of Kerala before I even visited the state (of course seen with english subtitles).

In this movie, two friends start on a trip from Kerala to Nagaland on their motorbikes. One of the guy’s motive is to find his girlfriend who lives in Nagaland. They travel through various parts of India and the journey and incidents on the road make the movie interesting. I especially like how the movie ends, ‘It must have started snowing in Tawang…’.

Sunset on Bekal Beach

On one of the days in Kozhikode, I decided to head to Kannur and try and make it close to Mangalore, to find a cheap homestay and chill on the beach anywhere on the Malabar Coast! I somehow got to Kannur in a slow bus, reached the train station to take a train to Kasaragod. Kasaragod didn’t quite turn out to be the tropical paradise that I had dreamt it to be.

I quickly decided to catch a bus to Bekal. Bekal also turned out to be a town where the beach wasn’t as close as I had thought it would be. After a conversation with an immensely helpful auto guy, I finally landed on the beach near Taj Bekal. It was magical to walk on the pristine beach in the mellow evening light with cool sand in the feet.

It was a surreal sunset and with my suitcase I spent some time enjoying the after-sunset colours; the auto guy also helped me find a cheap place to stay.

Human by Nature – Video by Kerala Tourism

Finding a hostel in Wayanad

I had got down sleepy eyed from the bus in Kalpetta and was finding it very troublesome to find a reasonable accommodation. After roaming around aimlessly for more than 2 hours with my backpack, I got lucky when a local decided to help me. He asked me to sit on his bike and took me to a hostel perched on a hillock near a small town by the name of Chundail.

The hostel was a colonial home and had a view of the Chembra peak and was located amidst a coffee estate and spice plantations. I never would have got here without the local’s help! It was only just that I spent 2-3 days here enjoying nature’s bounty.

Click to view slideshow.

The Spirit of Kerala in the slideshow. 

Organic and Sustainable Farm

A friend from Kerala, George took me to his friend’s estate when I was in Wayanad. Golden Greens estate is a sustainable and organic farm spread over 5 acres. It is the brainchild of Mr. Laiju who also led us on a walk and explained how organic coffee and tea are cultivated.

I also met volunteers at this organic farm in Wayanad who had come to learn more about sustainable farming. It was wonderful to learn about organic farming done while keeping nature in mind.

Note : This post is sponsored by Kerala Tourism as part of their campaign ‘Human By Nature’. Opinions and words on this blog are always mine.

I would love to listen to your human experiences of Kerala? Please share in the comments. 

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Where Exactly is Malabar Coast in Kerala?

The Northern part of Kerala adjoining the beach is known as Malabar coast and the entire region is enchanting. I was instantly in love with the sparsely crowded beaches surrounded by coconut plantations, a constant stiff breeze bringing fresh air, inland waterways called backwaters and fragrant spice plantations.

My Most Memorable Experiences from the Malabar Coast, Kerala

The Peaceful Beach at Nileshwaram

Nileshwaram (Also called Neeleshwar or Nileshwar) is a small village characterised by swaying palm trees and pristine beaches. It is blessed with a charming location on the Malabar Coast in Kerala. I distinctly remember being lulled to sleep by the sound of the crashing waves in Nileshwaram.

Nileshwar Palace is the old palace of Nileshwaram Rajas. In the morning, it was magical to walk on the pristine white sandy beach with cool sand in the feet. Hammocks hung beneath towering coconut trees almost extending an invitation as we lay on sun beds soaking in the gorgeous views of the ocean. Little huts on the sand had been laid out on the beach itself and it was otherworldly to enjoy breakfast in the beautiful surroundings. I did not get to experience it, but Theyyam performances in Nileshwar are quite popular even among local Keralites.

1500 year old Ship Building Industry in Beypore

Beypore is a sleepy town located on the banks of the Chaliyar river and a traditional hub for shipbuilding on the Malabar Coast of Kerala. It is situated around 10-15 kms away from Kozhikode. I’d boarded an auto rickshaw for going to shipbuilding area in Beypore but due to the language confusion, the auto guy dropped me in an entirely different place. Google maps came to the rescue and I somehow walked to the shipbuilding area in Beypore with my (huge) backpack. I was in an awkward scenario dripping in sweat unable to adjust to the humidity of the Malabar Coast in Kerala, even in the comparatively cooler month of February.

As soon as I reached the shipbuilding lane, I was astounded to see the huge ship being worked on by a number of carpenters. They were busy working on the partially built ship of wooden logs, and for me it was like being thrust right into the middle of the action. With the limited interaction possible due to the language barrier, I couldn’t really talk much but the people tried to show me the ship from the inside and explain the process.

From the limited knowledge I gathered – Ships made in Beypore are called uru in the local parlance. The Uru is a wooden dhow, quite huge in size and a single ship may sometimes take 2-3 years to build. Jackfruit tree wood and rosewood are used for designing the interiors. According to the workers, these ships are made without any fixed work plan or blueprint; apparently the mistry gives daily instructions to the workers. It was astonishing to know thats how the entire ship is built!

1498 – First Europeans set foot in India at Kappad Beach

I’d read in history books long back in school that Calicut is the place where the first Europeans landed in India. After coming to Kerala, it was known that Kappad Beach is the historic beach where Vasco da Gama landed on 27th May 1498. That is how the Portuguese history and the colonial history of India had its inception. Kappad beach is located around 20 kms north of Kozhikode on the Malabar Coast in Kerala.

To my surprise, upon reaching Kappad beach, there was a monument commemorating the same spot where Vasco da Gama landed more than 500 years ago; it is called Kappakadavu. If you are a history lover, Kappad beach has an old world charm of bygone times and it also makes for a nice place to spend an evening to enjoy a gorgeous sunset as well.

Experiencing the Magical Backwaters on Malabar Coast, Kerala

The backwaters on the Malabar Coast of Kerala consist of a zig-zag network of lagoons, lakes & canals and is a truly memorable delight. I was lucky to experience the backwaters in the recommended, local manner. We were on a traditional thatch-roofed houseboat, locally known as ‘kettuvallam’ and it slowly floated through the maze of canals.

Almost all the houseboats plying in the backwaters around Malabar Coast in Kerala are renovated cargo boats that are complete with all modern comforts and conveniences. According to the locals I met, nearly every family owns a houseboat in this region. It was stunning to observe the sunset from the houseboat while the beauty of the colours of nature got accentuated in the reflections on water.

On the houseboat ride, we were in the pristine valiyaparamba backwaters of Kerala, and had a glimpse of unspoilt nature with age-old traditions. Villages are set in the backwaters and are surrounded by paddy fields, their main occupation is fishing. The funniest memory for me is when I pretended to be the Captain of the Ship by wearing the hat and steering the wheel left and right!

Slow Walks in the Bounty of Nature

Walks in the countryside of Malabar Coast region took me on little trails that were shaded with coconut trees. I meandered through the plantations which are perfect for short hikes. Wherever you go, the trails are blessed with stunning vistas of the backwaters, and runs very close to pristine beaches. The locals I met all through the journeys in Kerala were very friendly and inspite of the language barrier, my time in this state will remain a cherished memory.

Delicious Kallumakkai (mussels) Biryani in Thalassery

Thalassery is a beautiful old town with a fort on the Malabar Coast in Kerala. Out of the around 8000 tonnes of green mussels harvested annually in north Kerala, Thalassery is one of the top three producers of mussels. Malabari biryani, especially the Thalassery Biryani, has a subtle taste and not heavily flavoured like its North Indian counterpart. While Hyderabad is famous for dum biryani, Thalassery mussel biryani is really meant to be savoured as one of the top biryanis in India!

And what a sight it was; after we ended up at one of the recommended eateries in Thalassery town. We were 8 of us, and we ate like hungry beasts eager to devour whatever variety of biryani appeared on the table!

Apart from the Biryani in Thalassery; Mambally’s Royal Biscuit Factory is the place where the plum cake was baked in India over 135 years ago. While Thalassery’s biryanis are famous, it is the mussel biryani that is a must try. There are many restaurants recommended by the locals and Rara Avis is a safe bet. Another interesting fact about Thalassery is that cricket was first played here in India.

Sunset at Bekal Beach near Kasaragod, Kerala

If not for catching the sunset, this experience could have easily made it to the Failures on the Road – Stupidity in Changthang, Ladakh. I had started the day in Kozhikode and after visiting the Ship Builders in Beypore had decided to head in the direction of Kannur and then try and make it somewhere close to Mangalore and try and find a cheap homestay and chill on the beach anywhere on the Malabar Coast!

In reality, I somehow got to Kannur in a slow bus, reached the train station to take a train to Kasaragod. The train turned out to be quite late and it was around evening by the time I reached Kasaragod. Kasaragod didn’t quite turn out to be the tropical paradise that I had dreamed it to be. I quickly made up my mind and boarded a bus to reach Bekal. Bekal also turned out to be a town where the beach wasn’t as close as I had thought it would be. I ran shelter-skelter with my bags before it became dark to try and find a homestay near the beach. After some hitched rides and unsuccessful stories, I finally landed on the beach near Taj Bekal.

I hadn’t found a homestay yet but the sun was setting and the scene was so immense that I was torn between two feelings. I was very worried about finding a nice homestay, but also immensely happy to have made it to the pristine Bekal beach. I spent some time enjoying the after-sunset colours; walked back to the main road to get lucky, hitch a ride and found a cheap place to stay.

Food Heaven : Cafés & Restaurants in Auroville

Danish Delight in India – Tranquebar (Tharangambadi)

St. Francis Church, Kochi & India’s Colonial History

Backpacking in Wayanad : Top Offbeat Experiences

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And in a mix of all kinds of experiences over multiple trips, these are a few of the offbeat delights of Wayanad.

Hostel Experience in Wayanad

Most people think that backpackers don’t have much choice in accommodation. I’d say thats quite an incorrect assumption. Backpackers and budget travellers are usually evolved travellers who are keen on seeking stays that are not huge multi-storeyed hotels. And on one such day, after an endless walk – I found myself at a hostel in Wayanad (Yes, hostel!).

The hostel was perched on a hillock in the midst of spice plantations and coffee estate, a blissful and true luxury in a hostel with a view of Chembra peak. Staying at this colonial looking abode converted into a luxury hostel, I was amazed with the breathtaking view of unmatched greenery, stunning peaks and cloud kissed mountains. And the best part was that this hostel is located away from a town in Wayanad and has clean beds, airy rooms and running hot water in the bathrooms. 

Among other facilities, cooking kitchen with all utensils, open-air lounge, wi-fi is available. Mobile network connectivity is not very great but who cares! I met other travellers from Bangalore and we did some stargazing in the night! 

Tranquility in Wayanad : Bamboo Rafting

A totally unexpected and one of the best offbeat experiences in entire Wayanad! The bamboo rafting activity is a superb mix of adrenaline rush with the calmness of nature.

Apparently, bamboo rafts were traditionally used as an indigenous method for farmers to transport rice across the river. Bamboo rafting is a relaxing activity and with luck, you can easily spot the famous Malabar Hornbill bird while on the 1 hour long experience.

The rafting was near Vythiri town in Wayanad on a tributary of Kabini river. Life jackets were provided and depending on the water level swimming in the river might be allowed for the participants if they desire. The best part about this experience was that I also tried rafting with the long pole-shaped oars!

Toddy Shops in Wayanad

Toddy tastes like a sweet fermented drink which turns stronger and more intoxicating as the day goes on. It is fresh and the locals swear by its medicinal properties, although toddy is also mildly intoxicating! Toddy shops are spread across Kerala and are a big hit with the locals. Many thanks to Johann for introducing me to toddy in Kochi! 

The food at the toddy shops is also top notch and it makes sense to spend evenings at the toddy shops in Wayanad for a local flavour. The entire bottle costs less than 100 Rupees and is a totally offbeat way to get high!

A hilarious anecdote : Once, I was walking to Pookode lake near Vythiri; it was evening time and just before I reached the lake there was a signboard indicating toddy shop. The sightseeing plan of the lake went for a toss and you know what happened next! 

Churches of Wayanad

It was wonderful to experience the splendour of the marvellous churches in different towns of Wayanad and I was lucky to attend the prayers as well. 

The prevalent religion in Kerala is Christianity and the churches of Wayanad are a great way to explore the architecture of Wayanad. Among the important churches that I saw was Assumption Forane Church which is situated in Sulthan Bathery. There was another newly built church that has a dazzling interior and is used for town ceremonies as well.

Kalpetta also houses a few churches and if its a Sunday you can attend the Sunday Mass as well. On one occasion, I saw a ceremony being conducted inside the gorgeous interiors of a Church in Sulthan Bathery.

Exotic Bamboo Rice in Wayanad

I must thank George for this as he was the one who took me around on his bike and enabled a taste of the rare preparation of bamboo rice made from bamboo flowers, that bloom only once in around 50 years. We ate it at one of the local eateries outside Edakkal Caves. 

Bamboo rice is a rare variety of rice that is grown out of bamboo flowers; and apparently this phenomena happens once every 50 years or so and then the bamboo tree dies after that. It’s a fascinating natural process. The rice has low fat and is rich in vitamin B. The tribes in Kerala use this rice to cure joint pain owing to the presence of vitamins. The bamboo rice payasam or sweet porridge is a mix of bamboo rice, jaggery and other ingredients and was really really tasty!

Authentic Kerala Sadhya

Sadhya is the traditional Kerala meal served on a banana leaf. Every important function or festival is served with Sadya. There are more than 24 dishes on Sadhya comprising of par boiled red rice, savouries, pickles, avial, koottukary, puliserri, olan, sambar, rasam, pachadi and payasam. There are many other dishes served and it is best experienced to relish the sadhya rather than read about it!

Sadya is a dazzling array of flavours that I will remember for a lifetime. While in the earlier days, it was served at feasts and people used to sit on the floor; In the modern setting, tables and chairs are used while the use of banana leaf is mandatory. I wished I had a bigger stomach when I enjoyed the sadhya!!

Spice Plantation Walk

What a walk through a scenic plantation of coffee, vanilla, nutmeg and other spices!

This spice plantation walk was in a 150 acre area in South Wayanad. The spices grown in the highlands of Wayanad are sent to Calicut, Kochi and other parts of Kerala for trade (I got some as well!) Apart from coffee estates and tea gardens; pepper, coconut, nutmeg, cardamom and other spices are cultivated here. According to locals – Growing spices also helps aerate the soil and keep the coffee free of weeds.

As you walk through the vast area with coffee plantations, paddy fields, spices you wonder if you have entered a spice haven with the rich aroma around. It is fascinating to learn the process of coffee beans from the tree to how it ends up in our coffee mug!

Organic and Sustainable Farm

Thanks to George again for taking me to the Golden Greens estate. It is great for birding besides leisurely walks to understand how organic coffee and tea are cultivated. One can also participate in farm work and learn the traditional and old methods of farming. In the core area of the estate, the huge natural reservoir fed by natural springs is important for local flora and fauna.

The sustainable and organic farm was located only 3.5 kms from Ambalavayal town. It is spread over 5 acres and is a really tranquil place. The various activities that one can experience on a volunteering experience here are : Handmade tea, Eco Farm Experiences, Eco Farm Produces, Bio Fertilisers, Plantation activities, Organic Farming.

Tea Tasting in a Historical Tea Estate

After taking a winding road, we reached the 1930s Parisons tea estate. The grandeur and colonial feel of the bungalow with the cool breeze was very welcoming. The tea gardens are perched on a mountain top and are a part of the 4000 acre tea garden set among green mountains.

In this charming British era tea estate, I learnt the fascinating process of tea making from growing it to the final step of tea tasting. The tea tasting expert will enlighten you on the intricate art of brewing the perfect cup of tea and the difference between various teas made at the estate. He will also show you the right way of sipping the tea and the other nuances of tea tasting.

In the multiple trips to Wayanad, these were a few offbeat experiences that I recollect. It was a great beginning to my South Indian sojourns and were very reasonable on the pocket!

More posts from South India :

St. Francis Church, Kochi & India’s Colonial History

Danish Delight in India – Tranquebar (Tharangambadi)

A Travel Guide to Pondicherry’s Attractions

Food Heaven : Cafés & Restaurants in Auroville

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I figured that more than comfort time is of the essence for me to reach Pondicherry and therefore just kept walking and didn’t respond to the taxi guys. In the process, I stumbled upon the easiest process of reaching Pondicherry from Chennai airport. Exit the airport, take a right – After walking approx. 500m take a left on the road, there will be a local railway station. Take a 10 rupee ticket to Perangulathur station that is 3-4 stops away from the boarding station. After exiting from the Perungalathur train station, once you get out cross the road – there should be a bus station visible. From here local (Tamil Nadu State Transport Corporation) SETC buses run regularly to Pondicherry via the ECR road and also the other route. I remember the bus ticket cost me only 85 Rupees.

Tip : In the local train, eat the local samsa (Samosa) Tamil Nadu style! The restaurant adjoining the bus station near Perangulathur serves tasty thali meals and I highly recommend it for people looking to move onward to Pondicherry.

I was supposed to travel with a partner but she dropped out at the last moment and that meant I had a heritage hotel booking all to myself. After reaching Pondicherry, I bargained with an auto and paid 40 Rupees to reach the hotel located in the White Town or the French Quarter.

I was pleasantly surprised at my first glimpse of Pondicherry and went walking just before sunset. There were many cafés serving fresh croissants and espresso coffee in this former French colony also called Puducherry or Pondi. Everyone seemed to be living a laid-back life making me feel that Pondicherry is the type of charming seaside town where one arrives for a weekend visit and ends up wishing they could stay for longer! Since most people have jobs and can rarely afford longer vacations apart from weekends and extended weekends, I thought about putting this brief guide of tourist attractions; with personal stories and anecdotes.

Read : Danish Delight in India – Tranquebar (Tharangambadi)

A Handy Guide of Places to Visit in Pondicherry  

The Portuguese arrived in Pondicherry in 1521, presumably with the purpose of trading in spices on the Coromandel Coast. After that the Dutch and Danish traders followed, but it was the French who purchased Pondicherry in the late 17th century. They ruled it for more than 200 years until Pondicherry was assimilated into India in 1954 as a Union Territory. The French were enamoured with the seaside feel of Pondicherry and constructed many buildings across this small town still retains its French élan. Pondicherry was established in 1674 by François Martin, who was the first director of the French East India company. Other French colonies in India include Mahe in Kerala, Yanam in Andhra Pradesh and Karaikal in Tamil Nadu.

Sri Aurobindo Ashram

Sri Aurobindo Ashram was established in 1926 by the Bengali philosopher Aurobindo Ghosh. He was also a freedom fighter in Bengal and was given shelter here after it became unwise to live close to the British in Calcutta. The ashram is a tranquil place lined with pretty plants and gorgeous doors, but photography is not allowed. Visitors are asked to maintain silence while taking the ashram tour as there are many devotees spending time in mediation.

Sri Aurobindo Ashram attracts thousands of devotees from India and around the world. It is located on Rue de la Marine very close to the French Quarter area and is a short walk away from the Manakula Vinayagar Temple. The Sri Aurobindo Ashram serves as the headquarters of the Sri Aurobindo Society. The samadhi of Sri Aurobindo and ‘The Mother’ is located here and it can be seen where devotees pay their respects with their hands folded in deep prayers. Inside the main building, there’s a very pretty Western-style room with accessories (presumably where Sri Aurobindo Ghosh lived). The adjacent bookshop in the ashram sells a range of books, while the building opposite to the ashram hosts frequent cultural programmes during the tourist season.

Check : St. Francis Church, Kochi & India’s Colonial History

Sri Manakula Vinayagar Temple

Sri Manakula Vinayagar Temple is one of Pondicherry’s most popular tourist attraction. The temple is located at a walking distance away from Sri Aurobindo Ashram. The temple is dedicated to Ganesha, the elephant-headed Hindu god. The exterior of the temple is huge and stunning with statues of various gods and goddesses lining the walls. Once you enter inside, the grandeur of the splendid friezes on the walls is immaculate with chiseled carvings. The Manakula Vinayagar temple has been in existence before the French occupation of Pondicherry; thereby making it one of the oldest buildings in Pondicherry.

The temple elephant, Lakshmi is the star attraction of the Manakula Vinayagar Temple. Eager devotees can get a tap on the top of the head with Lakshmi’s trunk; in exchange of a coin, dexterously picked up from the palm of the devotee, and immediately handed over to the mahout. It’s a fascinating ritual to observe and the best time for experiencing this is during the afternoon hours when there are lesser crowds at the temple. The fact that she’s outdoors makes it easy to click photographs.

Pondicherry Musuem

The Pondicherry Museum has a great collection of local historic memorabilia and collectibles, and is housed in a 17th-century colonial mansion that was once occupied by a French administrator. Among other things, the museum features a collection of stone sculptures, a bronze gallery, different carriages. There are also artefacts from nearby excavations around Arikamedu (an erstwhile seaport) that show that Romans traded in this region as early as the 1st century BC.

Read : Mahabalipuram – Of Historical Sights and Beach Delights

The Pondicherry Government Museum is located on Ranga Pillai Street, opposite Government Place. The archeological collection includes Neolithic remains from Arikamedu, a few stone sculptures from 6th to 8th century and Buddhist stone sculptures from 10th Century, and paintings. Also on display is some French furniture and artefacts from local houses that must have been used during the French occupation.

I had no idea about Pondicherry Museum and was lucky to stumble upon it on a turn on the rented scooty, and the timing was just right too as it was already evening and the museum would have shut down in some time.

French Quarter or White Town Heritage Walk

Many Indian tourists come to Pondicherry mostly to explore the ‘French’ architecture. The charming French Quarter, the area around the beachfront has wide boulevards, road names starting with rue, bilingual signs, colourful doors and windows on prettily-designed buildings, and gorgeous colonial villas. In the White Town area, even the policemen continue to wear the military style caps, known as kepis from De Gaulle’s time.

Once you cross the canal and enter the east side towards White Town close to the sea, the streets look cleaner and emptier with a European hangover. The broad boulevards of the tranquil French Quarter are best explored on a walk. I’ve written a separate post on the same. India’s French Colony : Pondicherry, A Photo Story

It is possible to undertake Heritage Walks of French Quarter and Tamil Quarter with INTACH. Although I didn’t personally do the walk with them, I’ve been recommended this by well travelled people.

Joseph François Dupleix became governor of Pondicherry in the mid 18th Century. It is said that he was keen on establishing French supremacy in this area and was a brilliant planner. The entire White Town area (Or French Quarter) has been planned by him with the street grid encircled by a boulevard and divided by a canal. His memorial statue is on Goubert Avenue just opposite of the GMT ice-cream parlour on the promenade in Pondicherry.

Raj Niwas, Official residence of François Dupleix : Along the same road, which runs along the northern end of a square known as Government Place, is the gleaming white Raj Niwas, which was the late-18th-century mansion occupied by Pondicherry’s governor, François Dupleix. It is a blend of French and Indian architecture and is now inhabited by the present lieutenant governor of Pondicherry.

Botanical Gardens

The Botanical Gardens are located close to the Railway Station and were established by the French in 1826. Entrance is free, and it is indeed a lovely place to come for a quiet walk and aimless wandering if the tourists at other structures have been too much noise for you! In the Botanical Gardens, the French planted 900 species of trees to experiment and see how they would do in Indian conditions.

Churches of Pondicherry

Church of our Lady of the Angels

Also called Eglise De Notre Dame Des Anges, this church was built in the later half of the 19th Century. It was by sheer luck that I ended up at this sublime church while trying to search for Sri Aurobindo Ashram. Church of our Lady of the Angels is painted in mellow pink and cream colour and is located on Dumas Streeet. Among other interesting details about this church, the limestone interior was made using eggshells in the plaster.

I was surprised to see a Statue of Joan of Arc in the Church premises. This Church is also known as the Domas Church and it boasts of a rare oil painting of Our Lady of the Assumption, which was gifted by the French Emperor Napoleon III. It is also the only Church at present in India that has a Sunday Mass in all three languages; French, English and Tamil.

Basilica of the Sacred Heart of Jesus

The Sacred Heart of Jesus Church is also known as Eglise de Sacre Coeur de Jesus. It is located close to the Railway Station and is constructed in the neo-Gothic style. It is a pretty building in distinct cream and dark brown colour and is a Catholic church.

Church of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception

Located on mission street, The Church of our Lady of Immaculate Conception was built in the late 18th Century. It is built in yellow and white colour and is pretty to look from the exterior.

Quiet Beach & Serenity Beach

Serenity beach is located at a 8 km distance from Pondicherry and can be reached via auto or by taking a rented scooter or motorcycle. There are a few beach resorts located near Serenity Beach but I personally thought it was filled with rubbish and do not recommend a visit. Quiet beach is also mostly the same and it may be difficult to spot even a bit of clean sand here. The sand is of muddy brown colour and the entrance road may be lined with tender coconut sellers eager to make a quick buck.

Check : Goa in the monsoons – Top 5 experiences

Paradise Beach

Aptly named, with its white sand – Paradise Beach on a cloudless day might resemble an island in Maldives! It is approximately 20 kms away from Pondicherry and the starting point is called Chunnambar. From there government boats take you to the island on which Paradise Beach is located. Price for to and fro boat ticket is 220/- Rupees. There are many eateries on Paradise Beach and I highly recommend a visit for tourists on a weekday. On weekends Paradise beach gets jam packed with local picnickers.

Yoga in Pondicherry

There are a few yoga ashrams and centres around Pondicherry and it is slowly becoming popular as a yoga destination in South India, courtesy of the laid-back vibe surrounding Auroville.

Festivals in Pondicherry

International Yoga Festival is held in January in Pondicherry when many yoga teachers from across India converge on Pondicherry and yoga classes are held.

Bastille Day on 14th July is celebrated with much French fanfare and customs.

How to reach Pondicherry from Chennai?

The distance from Chennai to Pondicherry is around 155 kms and generally takes around 3 hours to cover even via public transport. Tamil Nadu (SETC) transport buses are quick and ply on the scenic East Coast Road (ECR) and the alternate highway too. For Volvo buses, Koyambedu stop is said to be the best. If one is looking to travel to Pondicherry from Chennai airport, some Volvo buses also stop at Guindy. For travellers looking to find the fastest way to reach Pondicherry from Chennai airport, I have already detailed it in the start of this article.

For those looking to travel to Auroville, STS (Auroville transport) runs shared taxis from Chennai airport to Auroville. Travellers in groups may find it easier to rent a cab from Chennai to Pondicherry, as the price per person can be compared to the Volvo prices.

Stay – Neemrana de L’Orient

I stayed for a day in this palatial heritage property from the 1760s. It is a manor house located in the heart of the French Quarter and has a beautiful inner courtyard shaded by neem trees. I loved their masala chai and the breakfast spread; their restaurant is supposedly quite recommended for the ‘creole’ cuisine.

Where to eat in Pondicherry?

Apart from the cafés popular with tourists in the French Quarter area – which I thought were pretty average; recommended places to eat in Pondicherry are Satsanga Restaurant, Surguru Restaurant, Karaikal Chettinad just after you cross the canal from the French Quarter. If the funky lights don’t trouble you, then Café Xtasi is known to have some of the best wood fired pizzas in Pondicherry.

An alternative idea is Food Heaven : Cafés & Restaurants in Auroville

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Photographs from French Quarters (White Town area) in Pondicherry

Pondicherry is also lovingly called Pondi by local Tamilians and Chennai inhabitants for whom it is a weekend destination.

Check : Doors Of India Campaign – Documenting the North Zone

Pondicherry’s French Quarter is laid out in a grid pattern, with parallel streets cutting across each other at right angles. I have been told thats exactly how it is in French cities as well.

Read : Doors of Varanasi : A Photo Story

If you are a first time tourist to Pondicherry, you might well wonder what the fuss about French architecture is all about! Pondicherry is a bustling town now and resembles all metropolitan cities. The French Quarter or White Town area is the part located close to the seaside promenade facing Bay of Bengal.

Check : In Search of Demoiselle Cranes, Found Havelis in Khichan

Click to view slideshow.

The French Quarter or White Town area in Pondicherry is filled with elegant colonial mansions in the midst of tree lined boulevards, named on French streets beginning with ‘rue’, numerous parks and charming cafés. (Rue in French roughly translates to street.)

Check : Food Heaven : Cafés & Restaurants in Auroville

Click to view slideshow.

The houses in the French Quarter area are adorned with shuttered windows and in colourful façades that wouldn’t look out of place in Paris. Enjoy the slideshow showcasing pretty frames.

Read : Street Photography from Varanasi

French is still spoken among the older residents who live in Pondicherry and proceedings seem to be caught in a time warp when I came across old French buildings with their original names converted into Government offices of the Union Territory of Pondicherry.

Cafés of Pondicherry are a must visit attraction for the quirky graffiti and pretty interiors.

Elegant and tall French doors adorn the exterior and interior of many buildings. The best way of exploring the heritage French architecture is by slow travelling in Pondicherry and going on many aimless and leisurely walks.

Since I spent more time in Auroville than in Pondicherry, I also explored these streets on a rented scooty that cost only 100 Rupees per day! Highly recommend this idea if you are short on time. Make sure to ride slowly though and enjoy the sights around!

Check : Danish Delight in India – Tranquebar (Tharangambadi)

Read : Mahabalipuram – Of Historical Sights and Beach Delights

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As I walked through the hallowed hall, I realised that this was a Church that was inextricably linked with India’s Colonial History. I could not help but wonder in amazement at how much this Church had seen over a period of 500 years, when it was established by the Portuguese.

History of St. Francis Church, Fort Kochi

St. Francis Church is India’s oldest European church and was first constructed around 1503 by the Portuguese. It was originally built with wood, but was subsequently replaced by the present stone structure in 1516 AD. In the present day, the St. Francis Church is an unassuming structure in light yellow set amidst greenery surrounded by high boundary walls.

The Church is believed to have been built by the Franciscan friars, and over the centuries passed through the hands of the Dutch who converted it into a Protestant Church; and finally under the British occupation it was converted into an Anglican Church. Regular services are held at St. Francis church which is now under the Church of South India.

Vasco da Gama was originally buried at St. Francis Church when he died at Le Colonial (name of the house) in Kochi in 1524. His body was later moved to Lisbon in 1538, but there is still a tombstone in Portuguese signifying the same.

The Church has a simple façade that was used as a model for Churches that were built later. There are many gravestones with inscriptions inside the Church. The hall has a high ceiling and gives the impression of a really old building. As with other religious establishments, one is required to leave the footwear outside the main entrance of the Church.

A signboard outside the Church indicates : “Surmounted by a bell turn over the gabled front, the Church, facing west, has an impressive façade with an arched entrance and windows flanked by steeped pinnacles. The earliest Portuguese epitaph in the Church dates back to 1562 AD while that of the Dutch from 1664 AD.”

Click on the pictures to see Vasco da Gama’s connection with the St. Francis Church.

Pepper, Spice Trade, & the Europeans

The Portuguese (and also the entire world!) was seeking a sea route between Europe and the East so they could trade directly in spices. It was the lure of pepper that meant – on 20th May 1498 Vasco da Gama made it to the Malabar Coast near the town of Calicut (Kozhikode). Everyone, including the Jews, Arabs, the Greeks and the Chinese were keen on the spice trade with India because of its lucrative appeal.

The Portuguese began their trade but moved from Calicut to Cochin after being expelled by the rulers of Calicut. It is said that around 1550, the Maharaja of Kochi gave permission for the construction of the first European fort in India. Cochin had hitherto been an obscure fishing hamlet that became India’s first European settlement.

In 1663, the Portuguese lost and thus Cochin fell to the Dutch, and in 1814 Cochin was occupied by the British until it was finally assimilated into the Indian union in 1947. All these foreign influences left their mark, with fascinating architecture spread across Fort Kochi.

Looking back in time, it was Vasco da Gama’s arrival in 1498 that opened the floodgates to European colonialism as the Portuguese, Dutch and English came and ruled at different times. Vasco da Gama guided the first expedition to reach the Indian coast via the Cape of Good Hope and Arabian Sea.

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On a chance phone call with a friend who happened to have been staying in Auroville for over a month, he suggested that I should ditch the Pondicherry idea and come and stay at the huts in Auroville. We had randomly met in Nongriat earlier, and like travel stories that brief meeting in Meghalaya gave enough pointers for him to instinctively tell that I would love Auroville’s greenery. One fine morning, I hired an auto from Pondicherry and arrived in Auroville.

Best Cafés & Restaurants to Eat in Auroville

Tanto’s Pizzeria

Before I had even set foot in Auroville, the name Tanto’s had been thrown at me by Auroville regulars. I was told it is an authentic Italian restaurant run by two French brothers (or was it Italian brothers?!). I had first passed by Tanto’s Pizzeria in the auto itself, near the Kuilapalayam Village.

Even though I wanted to eat at Tanto’s from the very moment I reached Auroville, but as they say good things take their own sweet time; it happened as the very last meal of my stay. Tanto’s has a relaxed vibe and an outdoor kitchen with an open-air wood fire oven. It had rained just before we reached, and the al-fresco sitting area chairs were all empty. We sat right opposite the oven and the wafting aroma of freshly made pizzas made me hungrier than ever!

We ordered a pasta and two different varieties of pizza. The base of the pizzas was being freshly made with dough and with a wood fire oven around, we were very hopeful of the quality. We sank in heaven and gobbled up our pizzas in no time! And the pasta was excellent too; and seemed to be freshly made in-house. Their ravioli is said to be sinful!

Gelato Factory

In Pondicherry itself, I had been given a taste of the Gelato ice-cream in this area when I stumbled upon GMT (Gelateria Montecatini Terme), that is an ice-cream parlour on the promenade in Pondicherry. I was really impressed by their flavours and tried it multiple times in the 2 days I stayed in Pondicherry.

Of course, I had no idea at all what awaited me in Auroville. On the street, I spotted two Italian Gelateria – the cute white & blue Il Cono & Gelato Factory located on the opposite side of Auroville Bakery. I was mentally debating which one of these I could try (especially after the success at GMT in Pondicherry). I walked into Gelato Factory one day, the Italian owner Francesco Carboni was sitting on the other side of the counter. He explained to me the subtle differences between Gelato & ice-cream and the nuances of making it.

What is Gelato?

Gelato is different than ice-cream. Its base is natural fruits and is made with milk having fat content less than 10 per cent.

And as I had my first scoop, the rest is history. Auroville is your best bet for high quality gelato at affordable prices. For a price range of 80-120 per scoop, it is not expensive at all. Gelato ice-cream is 100 % natural, vegetarian, healthy and has a low fat content. The varied flavours of this artisanal Italian ice-cream are sure to delight gelato connoisseurs. Gelato Factory has vegan gelato ice-cream as well.

Naturellement Garden Café

Auroville is such a haven for food lovers that sometimes it becomes difficult to know the right places to eat. One day when I was wandering on my rented scooter (scooty), a pretty French girl asked me for a lift… Even though it was a very funny sight to drive like that, with her dog occupying the front part of the scooter, she suggested that I should try Garden Café and Well Café.

Naturellement Garden Café is located in a secluded area inside Auroville and took some searching to get here. It has all the forest café feels and has many seating options for various kinds of ambience; indoor, rooftop, couple, and in the open air surrounded by trees and pretty lights. They play excellent music in the background too. But most importantly, the food here is freshly prepared and is delicious. I remember trying two or three dishes and all of them turned out to be perfect. Their pesto gnocchi was heavenly!

Naturellement Garden Café also sells natural and organic jams, marmalades, fruit syrups, cereals, pickles and pesto.

Well Café

Well café specialises in Mediterranean cuisine with excellence in hummus, labana cheese, falafel, salads. The tahini feels very authentic (I was told that the owner is a Greek, maybe thats why!) The Mediterranean platter is highly recommended.

It is located very close to Garden Café and is set in the jungle with interesting decor largely made of discarded stuff. The ambience is peaceful, chairs are spread under a thick canopy of trees whose trunks are covered in colourful sarees. Crafts made from recycled paper are also used for decoration.

Solitude Organic Farm

Where do I begin? Krishna McKenzie’s words will blow your mind away. For the current generation who scarcely cares where their food comes from, this might be an eye opener. Terms like permaculture and do nothing farming will be used, and you will realise the significance only when you are relishing the thali.

It is expensive, at 240 Rupees a plate and won’t look much; but the ragi rolls are out of this world tasty and the dips, chutneys and other accompaniments will keep you happy long after you have finished eating. Juices and smoothies at Solitude Farm are made with flowers and everything at this small café in the farm is grown in-house. Spending some time at Solitude Farm is one of the must have experiences in Auroville. Psst. Highly recommend trying the juices; Radha’s consciousness and also the one made from aparajita flower.

Sustenance Farm

This one was my secret find for affordable local food in Auroville. Sustenance Farm is another farm dedicated to organic produce and is run by Mr. Ramalingam. Lunch is served on a banana leaf and consists of the staple fare of rice, sambhar, rasam, different vegetables and chutneys and a juice made of local produce. Price is kept at a very reasonable 80 Rupees.

Sustenance Farm is a rustic place to eat and footwear must be removed before stepping into the dining area. Breakfast is also served at sustenance farm and there is no fixed menu for it. This place is handy for those looking for a real and authentic taste of local food, and also for long term stayers because other places in Auroville are expensive.

Bread & Chocolate

I had been passing by this fancy looking eatery everyday in Auroville and was somewhat skeptical of dining here because of the very catchy name. As the days went by, among other recommended places – Bread & Chocolate’s name also came up. So, when I was leaving for Mahabalipuram in the morning, there was the possibility of one last breakfast in Auroville and I hitchhiked from my guest house.

Bread & Chocolate is a chić café with gorgeous wooden interiors, aroma of coffee, well groomed staff and a specialised menu. Even their breads are made in-house and I was enamoured by the heavy and lavish breakfast. Plus the chocolate drink is made from a single origin beans grown somewhere around Auroville itself. A relaxed time savouring the various delights here will cost you anywhere between Rs. 400 to 600; but it will be worth it.

La Terrace

An open air terrace with a very relaxed vibe, La Terrace is popular for the meal of the day. Even though it was a warm and humid day, the shade of the huge tree helped us keep cool. My friend tried their sandwich which turned out to be excellent, and the coffee and another smoothie/shake was really tasty as well.

Solar Kitchen

The most popular lunch time eatery in Auroville. It is recommended to make lunch reservations because it is possible that the food is finished before the late entrants can order! Solar Kitchen is run by volunteers and is the community dining hall of Auroville. Lunch is a simple affair of different varieties of rice, dall, veggies and salad – but one must check this place for the Auroville vibe.

Auroville Bakery

Auroville’s most widely recommended place, I was told to try their baguettes and croissants. I tried twice, unsuccessfully; because they are so popular that they get sold out by noon. So the only way to try them is to get there quickly in the morning. That said, when I finally tried the croissant and baguette, I was slightly disappointed. Maybe the weight of expectations did it, but I was frankly not interested.

Apart from breads and cakes, they also make pizzas, quiches, tarts and pies. Auroville Bakery is near Kuliapalayam and is open from about 6.30am to 5.30pm.

Dreamer’s Cafe

Located inside the visitor’s centre in Auroville, Dreamer’s Café is a crowded place because of the convenient location. It is one of the few places open in the evening too and is a good hangout for coffee and cakes.

I also saw a signboard with homemade gelato written; but after the Gelato Factory I knew where I would go for Gelato!

Youth Centre every Saturday – Pizza Night

If one is planning to stay for a week or two in Auroville, then spending a Saturday evening at the Youth Centre is a great idea. It is a quirky space for the youngsters, with cool graffiti, a pool table and two giant wood fire ovens kept under a roof.

The college kids from various parts of the world sing and dance and play music and games, and all play a part in making lip-smacking wood fire pizzas. For 150 Rupees per person, this is another interesting experience in Auroville.

Marc’s Cafe – Roast & Toast

For the best coffee in Auroville, look no further. They also have a variety of products on sale, including coffee beans, dark cacao powder and many other coffee based mixtures. It is a small café serving other foodstuffs too and is located on the main road near Kuliapalayam.

AuroSoya

I had eaten smoked tofu from Auroville at a lovely homestay in Himachal in Gunehr  and the name had stuck. So, when I was in Auroville, the first thing that I did was to find out where to get it!

AuroSoya is exactly the place to go for healthy food lovers. It is located just before the entrance to Naturellement Garden Café.

Neem Tree

La Ferme Cheese

La Ferme is the oldest handmade farm cheese maker in Auroville. They use traditional and sustainable techniques for making cheese. The goat and cow milk is supplied by their own dairy and also by farmers from surrounding villages. Their cheese is made from natural whole cow milk, salts, vegetarian enzymes and seasoning cultures. The different varieties on sale are farm cheese, gruyere cheese, ricotta, parmesan, cheddar cheese, gorgonzola cheese, auroblochon cheese, feta cheese and jeera cheese.

Mango Hill Cheese

Run by a hotel of the same name, Mango Hill Cheese focuses on making natural cheese with ferments from different countries. Their packing comes in 200 gram round shape and the different varieties of cheese on offer are :  Blue cheese, Cheddar, Colby, Farmer Cheese, Borsalino, Feta, Mozzarella, Parmesan, Gouda cheese.

Among other places I saw but did not try were Mother’s Grace Café and Farm Fresh in Kuilapalayam. Right Path Café was recommended to me for organic health food. Dharma Swasti has an incredibly beautiful setting and interiors, plus great food options for vegans.

Some Relevant Posts :

My Favourite Eateries & Cafés in Goa

Wisdom of Tradition : Food in Indian Baltistan

McLeodganj – Best Cafés and Restaurants in the Himalayas?

Top Cafés and Restaurants in Leh

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