Presenting some memorable Portraits from Manipur

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Kashmir Great Lakes Trek, in Pictures

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It was early in the morning and since the days in the northeast begin at 4-430, I was in the shared Winger taxi by 7 am. The locals had indicated that the place where the shared taxis left from Imphal for Moirang was quite close to the hostel where I was staying. It was an incredibly efficient system and a vehicle left every 15 minutes or so in the morning. There were buses for Moirang too; but I trust the local recommendations and they had told me that the Winger was an easier and recommended choice. I had also been told that if I really wanted to explore Loktak Lake, it was better that I stay at Thanga village.

Manoeuvring through the network of phumdis on the Loktak Lake boat ride.

Coming back to the Winger – It was a unique vehicle that functioned like a small minibus with a seating capacity of 15-18 people.

We crossed Bishnupur before reaching Moirang; the 50 km distance from Imphal to Moirang cost 60 Rupees per seat and hardly took an hour and a half. Once in Moirang, I finally had breakfast before walking towards INA Museum. After a detailed perusal of the same and much astonishment later, I concluded that it was indeed better that I went to Thanga Village. The hotels in Moirang were quoting high prices and anyway Moirang didn’t feel like a town that would entice me with its charms.

There were two roads that bifurcated in Moirang : One went right to the Keibul Lamjao National Park and the other continued straight to Sendra Island and the villages on Loktak Lake like Thanga (where I was headed). There wasn’t much information available on the internet about homestays around Loktak Lake and that only added to my confusion. Locals kept advising me that Sendra Resort was the best place to stay if I wanted to experience Loktak Lake. I wanted to stay at a homestay instead; and experience the local way of life.

In my usual style of travel, I kept asking here and there and figured that shared autos run from Moirang to Thanga village and a few people also vaguely confirmed that there was indeed one homestay in Thanga village. I found one auto that was brimming with people and was charging 20 Rupees for the 10 km distance to Thanga! Some language confusion meant that there was no space in the auto for me. I had to wait until there were enough passengers for the next shared auto.

In the meanwhile, the Israelis I had met at the hostel in Imphal had also reached Moirang. They had come from Imphal in a bus and we were all very happy to be reunited. The prospect of staying at a homestay sounded very promising, especially now that a few people had confirmed that there was indeed a functioning homestay in Thanga Village. There was no space in the next auto by the time they reached; the roof was the only space left!

The auto dropped us just outside the homestay in Thanga village; there was a steep descent on a slippery cemented path after that. One of the Israelis had a minor fall but we all made it to the homestay. It was a home owned by a local family and was located on the banks of Loktak Lake. The lady of the house informed us that they only had 3 rooms on offer. We sat in the open seating space while the lady confirmed the rates with Mr. Maipakchao (the owner and husband).

We finalised a reasonable rate and quickly put our bags inside. Days in the Northeast end early and we wanted to spend as much time as possible on Loktak Lake. We were very hungry and also Mr. Maipakchao had not yet come home; so it was decided to have a quick lunch and only then go out. Once Mr. Maipakchao was back home, he had a discussion with all of us. He decided to show us around the lake. The Israelis put me in charge of the boating discussion and we finalised a rate of 200 per person.

We were given cool looking bamboo hats as we walked out on the road. The weather was pleasant but the afternoon felt a little humid. We joked among ourselves at our touristy behaviour and whether we looked like jokers! The Israelis were young and fresh out of their military stint and I was very glad to know that even though it was their first trip to India they were exploring Manipur rather than the usual Himachali villages. It was around 2-230 in the afternoon and Mr. Maipakchao had told us that we needed to end the boating before 4 pm so as to reach a hillock in time for sunset.

To read about my candid feelings during the boat ride, check Life on Loktak Lake, Manipur : A Photo Story.

The sun had already started its downward journey as we rushed after the boat ride. Mr. Maipakchao led the way and we followed him hurriedly, wanting to see as much as we possibly could! It was a steep and uphill climb, I was perspiring like crazy. After much huffing and puffing, when I finally made it the sun was still strong. A strong breeze blew on top of the hillock making all if us feel quite relieved. The floating phumdis of Loktak Lake were visible in their glory and in all directions.

We could see round phumdis and wondered how on earth was it possible that these natural land masses were perfectly round!! At times, it felt like a motion movie with the scarcely believable postcard perfect scenes. The sun created surreal orange hues as it went behind the mountains. Tiny boats were seen heading back to the floating huts. I rubbed my eyes more than once to confirm that this wasn’t really a dream.

The Keibul Lamjao National Park was visible in the far distance. One of the Israelis was carrying a portable stove and made excellent coffee. We all took some time to savour the moment and sat on the ground enjoying the coffee with the gently changing sky colours. Just as it was about to get dark, we started on our way back to the homestay and Mr. Maipakchao asked us if we had any specific preferences for dinner? We told him anything homemade would do.

The weather had become cold and I was glad the blanket in my room was cosy. At the homestay, the lady of the house gave us tea with a distinct flavour and we all thanked her. At dinner time, the Israelis sang Hanukkah songs and lit up candles and performed a small ceremony. The food was freshly cooked and was very tasty. We ate like hungry beasts! It felt quite wonderful to experience a properly run homestay in the far away ends of Manipur.

During the after dinner walk, when it was pitch dark streaks of lightening flashed across the sky. I wasn’t quite sure if I had seen that for real or it was something else.

Check some other memorable posts from the North east :

Cherry Blossoms in Nagaland, India

Stunning Beauty of Umngot River in Dawki & Shnongpdeng

Chasing Tranquility in Majuli island

Two Days in A Paradise called Nongriat

Turns out that I was witness to the Geminid Meteor Shower on that cloudless night on Loktak Lake.

Dreams do come true.

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Photo Story of Life on Loktak Lake

Since I have many photographs of this lovely time, a post detailing the experience of Loktak Lake and also the homestay in Thanga will come in the next post.

Check other photo stories :

Photo Story : Snapshots from Tawang Festival

India’s French Colony : Pondicherry, A Photo Story

Life in Malana, In Photos

Srinagar – Leh Highway, in Pictures

Kashmir Great Lakes Trek, in Pictures

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I was solo travelling in Northeast India in December and was loving my experiences; even though the infrastructural difficulties meant a lot of time was spent in moving from one place to another. When the clock neared noon, I put a limit of 1 pm in my own mind. The 1 pm limit meant if I couldn’t find a ride for Imphal; then I would just head back to find a homestay near Kohima and try afresh the next day.

Check : Cherry Blossoms in Nagaland, India

I had decided to stop all MN numbered cars headed towards Manipur border and ask them for a ride. A kind samaritan had been the only person to give me a short 5 km ride to a conveniently placed bus stop towards Manipur; all the other yellow sumo taxis were either full or were not going to Imphal.

Mao town, the entry to Manipur from Nagaland – was hardly 15 kms away but I was totally uncertain about the stay and the safety situation there and therefore opted to say no when some yellow taxis indicated that they were heading to Mao. Like Shantaram says, ‘Luck is what happens to you when fate gets tired of waiting.’; once the rain slowed down to a drizzle a SUV stopped. There was no other way; as I was standing in the middle of the road whenever I saw a MN (Manipur) numbered vehicle.

Read : A Backpacking Guide to Meghalaya

It was full with Manipuri college kids returning after attending the Hornbill Festival. The SUV was full but they listened to my ordeal and indicated that their friends are coming in a Maruti Swift and they have one seat in the car. As they spoke, the Swift was right behind us and while the cool college kids communicated amongst themselves; I ran to pick my bag and the Swift guys indicated to me to get in! They said they were going all the way to Imphal and would be pleased to help an outsider explore their state. I was overjoyed!

What a cool bunch of kids; beer drinking; pot smoking and some really insane music! I can’t thank you enough, guys! The road from Kohima to Imphal has to be one of the worst in entire India. The landscape was surreal; clouds rose from the lush green fields as our car negotiated the way on a road that was more of potholes and less of a road. And to make things worse, the rain had created slush so bad that I remember seeing a truck that had overturned on the side of the road. So much so for naming this highway the Asian Highway 1 (AH1) as it connected directly to Moreh, Myanmar.

We had tasty lunch at a local eatery in a place called Maram Bazaar at around 3 pm. They had kept my eating preferences in mind and stopped at a Hindu Vegetarian Hotel. I somehow forced the kids to accept money for the lunch, and after some time they did. They were very happy to taste the rice wine that I was carrying with me and wondered how they had missed it at Hornbill Festival!

Check : A Mixed Experience – Mechuka in Arunachal Pradesh

After that we crossed Senapati town and the landscape and valleys became even more greener and serene. Stunning sunset colours juxtaposed with the swaying rice fields of Manipur. In hindsight, I wish I had a few photographs from the road journey but alas when you are with strangers in an unknown land, you are wary of showcasing your dslr camera to the outside world. It was almost dark at around 430-5 pm and before reaching Imphal, we were supposed to make a stop at one of the boy’s homes in a town around 45 kms before Imphal.

I was the centre of attraction at the boy’s home. The mother and father were kind people from the Kuki tribe and conversed with me; mom gave me a cup of tea (Update : I am still in touch with them on Facebook!). Among the people who had given me the lift; their son was one of them and was supposed to go to USA to study. It was well past dark when we left from their home for Imphal. I was a little worried because I was breaking one of my rules of solo travel – by arriving in a place in the dark, and not knowing where I was going to stay.

Read : Top solo travel tips

A friend had told me about the Youth Hostel in Imphal; I could stay there for as little as 300 Rupees. Due to the terrible condition of the road; we were hardly clocking 20 kmph. As we neared Imphal, the roads widened and the surface had improved a lot too. Among all the cities that I’ve visited in the Northeast till now, Imphal has surely got the most developed and planned feel to it. Terraced fields of rice cultivation surrounded by the mountains welcomed me to Imphal; and I suddenly felt calmer.

I must say thanks to the kids again when they took me to an affordable hotel place once we had reached Imphal. Only that the hotel’s cheapest room was like 1200 Rupees. It had started raining again, and when I mentioned Youth Hostel near Khuman Lampak Stadium Road – the locals remarked that it was nearby and the kind college kids made sure they dropped me to the hostel. They also ensured that the watchman opened the hostel doors for me and that I was assured of a room to stay at the hostel. I thanked them profusely and bade goodbye.

I slept like a baby at the hostel; forgot about having dinner and directly woke up the next morning. It was nice and chilly due to the rains and the clean bed and blanket felt really comfortable. I met the super helpful manager of the hostel the next morning and he assisted me in how I should go about my day in Imphal. It was still drizzling and I was in no mood to tire myself out again.

A Brief History and Introduction to Imphal & Manipur

Manipur’s history dates back to 1500 BC (yeah, read that again!). Imphal is the capital city of Manipur, and was founded in the first century AD. Imphal is also one of the biggest cities in the Northeast.

Check : Chasing Tranquility in Majuli island

Manipur literally translates to ‘jewelled land’. The entire state of Manipur is surrounded by hilly terrain and connects Southeast Asia with the Indian Subcontinent (Manipur borders Myanmar). The varied history of Manipur suggests that it was an important halt on the ancient trade route which resulted in a rich culture with outside influences.

Manipur is the birthplace of polo (Sagol Kangjei in Meitei), and Manang Kangjeibung (in Imphal) is arguably the world’s oldest polo ground where the game polo is still played. Meitei is the local language and tribe of Manipur.

Imphal is located at an altitude of 785m and its broad avenues give this ancient city a modern and open feel. The drive along the green valleys to reach Imphal is breathtaking.

Places to Visit in Imphal – Attractions of Imphal

Kangla Fort 

Kangla Fort is the heart of Imphal, it was the ancient seat of power of the Kangleipak (Manipuri) Kingdom for an estimated 2,000 years. It is a huge complex that has been beautifully restored to its former glory. Kangla complex is situated in the heart of the city and is surrounded by a canal filled with water. I was lucky to capture a few portraits of a policeman and a Manipuri local near Kangla.

Inside the Kangla Fort Complex, one can find many old temples, colonial era cottages, and a few restored structures. The most prominent attraction inside Kangla Fort Complex are the two large ‘Kangla Sha’, the mythical dragons guarding the land. Among other fascinating sights was the newly built ‘Hijagang’ (Boat Yard), showcasing ancient Manipuri longboats decorated with dragon faces. There’s an interesting looking temple complex right at the beginning of Kangla Fort complex Compound.

Also read : Stunning Beauty of Umngot River in Dawki & Shnongpdeng

Inside Kangla, there’s also a café made from bamboo where one can spend time gazing at the clouds on the horizon and tasting the local delicacies. I explored Kangla at my own leisurely pace and took around 4 hours to see the sights. It was a holiday (due to the bandh) and the museum inside Kangla was closed. One of my favourite moments in Imphal was the sight of impeccable reflections of the sky and trees in one of the water bodies inside Kangla.

Ima Keithel Market

Ima means mother in Meitei language and keithel means market. Ima Keithel can be translated to the mother’s market. More than 4000 women have set up shops making it the largest market of its kind in Asia, and possibly the entire world! I was almost lost in the lanes of this never ending market. Products on sale range from handicrafts to fish, from exotic fruits to lotus flowers, from the elegant dresses worn by Manipuri women to the religious offerings for the temple and the famous morok chilli.

Ima Keithel was a riot of colours, and understandably so. The all women’s market is said to have been there for over 400 years, battling against all odds; the British, negotiating with the government. The ima are dressed in the traditional dress of phaneks – sarong and innaphis – shawls with sandalwood marks on their forehead.

The Ima Keithel is also called the Khwairamband Bazar or the Nupi Keithel (women’s market). It is fun to experience the all women’s market over the noise of haggling shoppers and traffic; and watching the ima laugh with their stained teeth while chewing kwai (betelnut) is an ice-breaker!

Check : Photo Story : Snapshots from Tawang Festival

One section inside the Ima Keithel is devoted to textiles – shawls and colourful fabrics including the traditional Meitei dress. Across the road, the other section of the market is located where local fish, vegetables, fruits, other perishables and provisions are sold in a constructed building. There are also a variety of handicrafts, including cane and bamboo products on display and sale. Prepare to haggle to crack a good deal.

The Ima Keithel Market was badly damaged in the 2016 earthquake but is being repaired and will shift to its original building soon.

Nupi Lal Memorial Complex

Nupi Lal is an unforgettable and important movement led by the women of Manipur (against British rule) which has carved out a niche in the history of the state. The memorial is located opposite to the alternate gate of Kangla Fort. It was the Nupi Lal Day (13th December) in Imphal when I was there and a huge celebration was organised. I went inside to see the museum and was really surprised to know the facts regarding the revolution.

Manipur State Museum

A must visit to get acquainted with the rich culture and varied past of Manipur. The Manipur State Museum is located on a parallel lane just behind Ima Keithel textile market and showcases tribal costumes, jewellery and weapons along-with displays of relics and historical documents. The museum also has a fabulous collection of portraits of Manipur’s former rulers.

Check : Life in a Secret Village : Near Great Himalayan National Park in Himachal Pradesh

Shaheed Minar

Shaheed Minar is a long and towering monument dedicated to the martyrs of Manipur who fought against the British in the Anglo – Manipur war in 1891. It is located in Bir Tikendrajit Park which is adjacent to Ima Keithel. The entry gate is sometimes closed, but there is a watchman who can always open the entrance for visitors.

Shri Govindajee Temple

Shri Govindajee Temple is an abode of calm and is associated with Lord Krishna. This is where my day started in Imphal. I’d walked outside the Youth Hostel and immediately an auto guy had asked for only 40 Rupees to take me to Shri Govindajee Temple. It was drizzling, I was already hungry and the auto guy dropped me to a local eatery just outside Shri Govindajee Temple.

It is Imphal’s eminent Vaishnavite temple and is located close to the bazaar and has two golden domes. It was a cloudy day when I reached here and the entirely white structure presented a stunning effect. Shri Govindajee temple has a large prayer hall with a calming ambience; and is highly revered by all Manipuris.

The early morning puja is a must visit ceremony with conches blowing, drumming and procession, to get a grand taste of Manipuri culture. There’s also another small temple in the nearby lawns. Lotus flowers were being sold outside the temple and were very pretty and colourful.

Read : Jageshwar Dham Temple in Uttarakhand

Manipuri Thali at Luxmi Kitchen

A big part of local explorations is eating traditional food of the region; and the traditional Meitei Thali at Luxmi Kitchen does just that. The Meitei thali (Manipuri Thali) on offer here has a minimum of 10-12 dishes with different varieties of rice. The thali comprises of a variety of fish; but the vegetarians need not despair. There are bowls of different types of lentils, kangsoi (veg stew), green peas, maroi (green leafy veggies).

The taste is deliriously good. My favourite memories from the lunch were – Gooseberry juice in a bowl, and the unbelievable purple black rice with a sweet aftertaste. And the best news is that all this comes with refills for only Rs. 150 per person! I was lucky to have a local sitting in front of me and the kind lady explained to me about the different dishes that I was eating!

Check : Wisdom of Tradition : Food in Indian Baltistan

Imphal War Cemetery

Imphal was immortalized in World War History because of The Battle of Imphal between the British and the Japanese that was a turning point in World War II. Also, Tulihal (the airstrip) that serves as the current airport also played a big role in the War.

The Imphal War Cemetery contains the graves of soldiers from many countries who fought and died for the British during World War II. It is beautifully maintained by the Commonwealth War Graves Commission (CWGC) and is housed in a tranquil garden. According to CWGC, there are 1462 graves in total in Imphal War Cemetery.

Indian Army War Cemetery

There’s a separate Indian Army War Cemetery located in a different area in Imphal which contains the graves of Indian soldiers who died in World War II. It was not easy at all to find the Indian Army War Cemetery and at first I was just roaming around in circles across the streets of Imphal.

A knowledgeable gentleman had pointed the directions to this cemetery which was located in a far corner of an area occupied by what appeared to be Bangladeshi immigrants (correct me if I’m wrong). It was a dense colony and most of them did not know about the existence of a cemetery in their colony.

The Indian Army War Cemetery is maintained well and is in a green park. It is the final resting place for about 860 Indian soldiers who fought for the British Army during World War II. Their names are inscribed on a monument inside the cemetery. All in all, it is a nice and peaceful place to go during the second half of the day.

Read : A Travel Guide to Pondicherry’s Attractions

Best way to explore Imphal 

Imphal’s streets are easy to navigate and all the above attractions lie less than 5 kilometres away from each other. Autorickshaws are easily accessible and a private tour in a taxi for the entire day in Imphal would cost around 1000 Rupees. It is recommended to start the day early as the sunsets in the northeast happen earlier than in other parts of India. Shared autos also ply throughout Imphal.

Later in the night, a group of Israelis made their way to the Youth Hostel. I was thoroughly impressed with the fact that they had found their way to this cheap hostel when travelling Indians did not even know about it. After a few more explorations the next day, I made my way to Loktak Lake near Moirang.

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