I used my wits and drew a 50 Rupee note from my pocket. He gestured me to get in and drove fast. For a while I wondered if I had gotten into any trouble by sitting in the cab with a driver who had not understood where I wanted to go! I was coming from Cherrapunjee (Sohra) after a successful trek to Nongriat and had got down on the bifurcation of the road close to a place called Laitlyngkot.

In Cherrapunjee, the locals had suggested that going to Shillong was the only solution. I wasn’t convinced at all and a quick look at google maps proved that I was correct. The road to Pynursla and Dawki would bifurcate halfway on the Cherrapunjee to Shillong highway saving me at least 40 kms of travel. And thats why without a second thought, I had alighted from the shared taxi from Cherrapunjee to Shillong and stood on the side of the road. There were very few vehicles going on this road and when no one stopped in an hour, I began getting jittery.

I was hungry too; after having made the climb to Tyrna from Nongriat; then hitching a ride to get to Sohra market. My food troubles (read : no roti) had just started and I only drank one lal chai in a restaurant before boarding the shared taxi. I had been looking at my watch incessantly and wondering if getting down in the middle of nowhere was the right decision or not. So, when the ride finally came along I was more relieved than anything else.

Also read : A Backpacking Guide to Meghalaya

I think we had just reached the next town after driving for around 30 minutes and I was perturbed when the car was brought to a halt. The driver got down and began chatting to someone else. I sat still for a minute and then opened the door and stood with my backpack; in a moment of good luck a Dawki bound bus appeared and the driver indicated that I should get in. I tried to give him the 50 Rupee note but he wouldn’t take it and muttered Pynursla. I think he meant he would have taken it if he had dropped me to Pynursla!

There was no empty seat in the bus and I stood for some time until I could sit. It was a comfortable but slow ride; the landscape was surrounded by green bamboo trees bathed in golden evening light. We passed Mawlynnong on the way but I had already had my tryst with the living root bridges in Nongriat and had Dawki on my mind. Dusk approached quickly as the bus made its way to the market in Dawki. The plains across Bangladesh were visible from the window on the way and it was a pretty sight with the twinkling lights.

I wasn’t pleased with my first sight of Dawki. It appeared to be a dirty, filthy town full of horrible smells and lots of smoke. A helpful guy on the internet had thrown the word ‘Shnongpdeng’ at me before the trip. It was entirely dark and I had no clue of what to do! I only knew that I was very close to the Bangladesh border and like all borders there would be scrupulous elements around here too. There was no trace of Umngot river though as it was night. I couldn’t hear the sound of water flowing too.

Also read : The Dilemma of Responsible Travel : Secret Villages in the Himalayas

A chance conversation with a passerby local on the road informed me that Shnongpdeng was 7 kms away and no public transport or shared taxi plied at that time. I was thinking of resigning myself to fate and get a cheap room in Dawki. And then my luck worked again; as I used the word ‘homestay’ – the local (semi drunk) told me that there was someone going to Shnongpdeng if I could wait for some time.

Now, I did not mind waiting but was caught in two minds. Here was a drunk man who had told me I could go to the remote village of Shnongpdeng. I had no idea if I would get a place to stay in Shnongpdeng and also the road would understandably be dark as well. The gentleman just walked out though and put my worries to rest, he was well behaved and said that we will leave in 15 minutes. The road from Shnongpdeng to Dawki was in a horrible condition and we had been joined in the car by another drunk man. I was a little bit perturbed still and heaved a sigh of relief when the gentleman mentioned that there were many homestays in Shnongpdeng and most were run by him.

We crossed an entry gate to Shnongpdeng and I was dropped near a homestay because apparently either the costs were too high or the homestays were full. He told me that his home is just a bit ahead if in case there is any trouble or I am unable to find a place. I promptly got down and saw a board for a homestay on the left side of the road. It was a bamboo home and the owner was there too. He was very kind and gave me a comfortable looking room for 400 Rupees. I quickly ordered for some vegetarian food and requested him to make it tasty since I hadn’t eaten anything since morning!

The next room was occupied by 2 Israeli backpackers and while we chatted over dinner, its happened that they knew Eldad & Erica (the ones who had trekked from Nohkalikai Falls to Nongriat with me!). Dinner was tasty and we immensely enjoyed it. The weather was nice and cold in February and a cool breeze blew. The common bathroom was just 2 steps away from the room and I slept early; very happy and relieved to have made it to Shnongpdeng.

I woke up early in the morning and as usual had no plans for the day. I wanted to see Umngot river (for which I had come to Dawki) first and maybe stay in this homestay in Shnongpdeng for another day. We were served black tea and bread for breakfast. I wasn’t keen on eating bread and just had the tea; asked the locals for directions to reach the river and started walking. In no time I reached the end of the road, the downward path led to Shnongpdeng village and Umngot river while a bridge was visible if i took the right turn.

I descended down the steps and walked through the greenery to come across camps and tents scattered across the river bed. It was a lovely location to camp by the river, some basic shops were also there and I reached one of them and asked for veg breakfast. It was a sunday and I began to witness first signs of trouble! They had only jadoh (pork rice dish) and red tea, and no vegetarian food was available. I drank another red tea and prepared myself for a quick walk around Umngot river in Shnongpdeng.

Check : Failures on the Road – Stupidity in Changthang, Ladakh

There were also a few bamboo cottages being run as guest houses in Shnongpdeng and I wondered if I would have liked to stay there if I had arrived during the daylight! Then I climbed the stairs and headed straight to the walk-only suspension bridge. The waters of Umngot river looked very pristine and clear and the small boats provided for great photographs. I walked from one end of the bridge to the other and clicked a lot of photos.

On the other end of the bridge, there was a a docking station for the boats and also a camping site with around 15 tents on a flat surface. It was a tranquil space and would make for a fantastic place to stay with the pretty river for company. Some fishermen and locals were heading to the waters in their boats and it made me realise I would have loved to have a boat ride too! As I walked back to the homestay, I wanted to give the local shops another chance. Alas, everything was closed! It was Sunday; men and women were well dressed and were going to the Church to attend the Sunday Mass.

Shnongpdeng Village and Sunday Mass at the Church. Most people in this region of Meghalaya practise Christianity. 

I picked my backpack and said goodbye to the homestay owner; when some small kids took me to the Church. Prayers were being sung and I stood outside for some time. After finally realising that it was already 11 am and that I was better off to try and reach Dawki as soon as possible. In my mind, I was certain that since Dawki was a bigger town I would find some vegetarian food to eat. I walked a part of the distance and was given a bike ride to reach Dawki.

Read : St. Francis Church, Kochi & India’s Colonial History

To my astonishment, Dawki also resembled like having a holiday atmosphere. The shops were all closed and there were no orange sellers too. There were no buses running and nor were there any shared taxis (sumo) to be seen. I was thinking of going to Shillong but wondered if it was a mistake to get out of the homestay in Shnongpdeng. I kept walking out of Dawki and spotted a dhaba serving basic breakfast with a dazzling view of Umngot river. It wasn’t great but served its purpose.

As I moved ahead the colour of the river began changing and turned into a shade of green. There were uncountable boats now in Umngot river and tourists were also seen. Most tourists come to Dawki and I was witnessing the more popular places even on a Sunday. I learnt that it is possible to go on hour long rides in a boat for less than 500 Rupees and the cost is even lesser if there are other people to share it with.

The dslr camera was inside the bag and I was caught in two minds. Whether to enjoy more time near the Umngot river in Dawki – or quickly get out of there and try and reach Shillong. The colour of water was so clear that the boats appeared to float. It was an inexplicable sight and the phone pictures don’t do justice (In hindsight I should have kept my bag somewhere and clicked pictures with the dslr). There were also bamboo shops selling tea and basic necessities near the river but the sight of so many people just made me continue walking.

The last stretch of the road had even more beautiful views of Umngot river and within no time I had reached the green bridge in Dawki. There was an officer stationed on the bridge and he told me that there will be no bus for the day. I decided to try my luck and hitchhike. While wandering on the bridge, I saw that the boats with tourists made for great subjects with the water of Umngot river and convinced the officer to let me click!

Check : India’s French Colony : Pondicherry, A Photo Story

What happened next was the stuff of dreams! A Dzire car was seen coming; I ran towards it and stopped it in the middle of the road. It was a couple in the car, they asked me where I was from? I answered, Rajasthan. In the meanwhile, the officer had also joined me in the request. The man asked me to show the id to confirm that I wasn’t an illegal Bangladesh immigrant because the border was so close! After two rounds of please; he asked me to get in!

They were going all the way to Guwahati. It was a comfortable car and the guy was a wildlife photographer as well! They had stayed in Mawlynnong and were visiting Dawki for a day visit. The wife was Assamese and told me a bit about festivals of Assam and Bihu. When they learnt that I was starving and that my main reason of getting out of Dawki was food, they decided we should stop at the best place on the entire route for lunch.

The restaurant was designed in a traditional style and the interiors were made of bamboo. I don’t remember the name of the restaurant but can tell you that it was around 20 kms after crossing Shillong. I ate like there was no tomorrow! The bamboo shoot curry was yum and so was everything else that we ordered. A cool breeze blew on that cloudy afternoon.

Read : Top 12 Instagram Photographs of 2017

The kind couple wouldn’t let me pay even my own share of the bill. I made them aware that I was saving a lot of money because of their ride and after a lot of convincing them I paid my part. If you are reading this : ‘Thanks a million for the ride! Please come to Jaipur someday.’

This comfortable ride meant that I reached Guwahati in the evening and wasn’t tired at all. I put my bags at the ChaloHoppo guys’ place. Thanks Nishant, John and Chetan for the delicious plum wine!

Read the next leg of my journey : Chasing Tranquility in Majuli island

Brief Travel Guide for Dawki – Shnongpdeng

How to Reach Dawki?

Dawki is connected to Shillong by buses and shared taxis. The distance from Shillong to Dawki is around 80 kms and the buses take around 3 hours to reach from Shillong.

Where to stay in Dawki?

Dawki has a range of choices from homestays, guesthouses and hotels for travellers to stay. As mentioned in the post; Shnongpdeng is a small village 7 kms away from Dawki and is a much better place for tourists to stay. There are camps, tents, homestays and bamboo cottages to stay in Shnongpdeng.

Best time to visit Dawki

According to the locals, the best time to visit Dawki to see the crystal clear waters of Umngot River is from October to March. During the summer season and the rains, the water is not clear and that may likely lead to a disappointment.

Interested in checking other posts on North East?

Photo Story from Ziro Valley, Arunachal Pradesh

A Mixed Experience – Mechuka in Arunachal Pradesh

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Nongriat village had a nice and relaxed vibe to it and few kids roamed around the open space near Byron’s home while some huddled near the TV. There were many travellers sitting and playing carrom in the dining area of the homestay. I asked Byron for a cheap room and he suggested that I take a bed in the dormitory on the lower floor; which cost around 150 Rupees. Eldad and Erica had got a room for around 350 Rupees. The dormitory was a nice space with 5 beds laid side by side in an open verandah and the sound of a nearby stream provided the right music to start my love affair with Nongriat.

It was dinner time straightaway which was priced at around 100 Rupees per person. There were bowls of veggies, dall, rice, salad, and french fries and it was self service system. The place had a traveller camaraderie and I was instantly friends with everyone who was staying there. There was a man from Germany who had been there for a few weeks, another guy from UK had been exploring the region for months, and old hippie lived in a hut nearby and was happy to while away time and a surprising entry was an Indian who had been living at Serene Homestay for over a month. Among some people leaving the next day was a musician from Kerala and a lawyer from another part of India.

We played carrom after dinner and even the kids and Byron joined us. It seemed like a perfect life, where everyone was happy and there was no emphasis of speed of any type. There was only one rhythm in Nongriat, and it was slow. Even the water flowing in the stream had a melodious hum rather than a rushing sound to it. One by one we all said our goodnights to each other and were in deep slumber with a lovely breeze blowing.

The next morning I was woken up early with the sound of the chirping birds and also because sunrises in the northeast happen early. There were also a few tents set up in the open air verandah for travellers who would like the camping experience. At Byron’s homestay, everyone was expected to keep their own account of food and pay it when one checked out. I asked for a fresh fruit bowl and chai for my breakfast and then topped it with a round of french toast.

Read : A Backpacking Guide to Meghalaya

The long time stayers were headed what they called the ‘selfie pool’ and also asked me if I wanted to come. I was keen on going to the Rainbow Waterfalls and was delighted to know that it was on the same way as the lagoons that the others were heading to. Among other secrets, the joys of Nongriat included pristine pools and lagoons, hanging suspension bridges, rainbow waterfalls, the Umshiang double decker root bridge (as it is over the Umshiang river) and the various folklores of the Khasi tribals.

Even though I had arrived only one night earlier, Nongriat’s general friendly vibe meant that I felt as if I had been there for a long time. The air was nice and fresh and we all left with our daypacks. In less than 15 minutes, we reached the place from where the lagoons are just a short walk away. I waved goodbye to the folks and promised to join them after coming back from the Rainbow Falls. The path to Rainbow Falls was the same and I was told I would reach there in around 30 minutes.

I heard the Rainbow Falls before I saw them! It was an incessant climb for my already wobbly knees (remember last day’s trek from Nohkalikai Falls to Nongriat?) It was a cloudy day and that meant the colour of the water was a beautiful blue but there was no rainbow to be seen. I chose a rock where with a nice view of the waterfall and the pool below it. A few youngsters from nearby villages (presumably) also reached the Rainbow Falls and were having a jolly good time with packed picnic lunch.

Two adventurous boys went right down to the base of the waterfall and began swimming in the super cold waters. There was a huge rock near the blue lagoon and one of them climbed on top of it for superb photographs. For a brief while even the sun came out but the rays were not on the waterfall and again no rainbow! When I saw the mist coming in around noon, it was time to turn back and join my newfound friends at the ‘selfie pool.’

They were perched on a superb vantage point near the intersection of two lagoons and I had to wade through knee deep water to get there. When I asked them the reason for this name; they said that there most Indians who came to the pool just did it for the selfie photographs and that they had no intention of spending time here! Haha, and hence they named it selfie pool.

The foreigners are experts with the wood collecting and lighting a fire and make maggi, the packets of which they have carried from the homestay. One of the guys has a kettle too and another one is carrying the local honey, someone goes and collects some bay leaf and within no time our concoction is ready. They have carried glasses too and I relish this fantastic moment. Out of nowhere, an old hippie has made his way to the pool. He is known to everyone and has the jolly good nature of a happy old man.

The water is so clear that we can see the pebbles and rocks at the bottom. At around 3 in the afternoon, when everyone has had their fill of swimming and enjoying in the water; we head back to Byron’s homestay. These guys have been around for long and fill me in with some excellent knowledge.

They have observed that almost all visitors to Nongriat inexplicably just come there for a day trek; i.e. start the trek early in the morning from Tyrna, spend some time in Nongriat, and go back to Tyrna on the same day. I was really surprised to know that, especially because of the simple reason that the trek up and down is excruciating for the knees… and to do both the legs in a single day is inexplicable. Maybe it is the paucity of time. I am sure everyone wishes they could have spent some time in Nongriat, when they reach here and cherish the idyllic paradise it is.

There are a few people near the double decker living root bridge and some are relaxing and dipping their feet in the water pools beneath the bridge. I roam around, sit for a bit, talk to the lady managing the ticket counter of the double decker root bridge and head back to the homestay. It is a tranquil evening in the village, the sky changes colours like a masterstroke by a painter but this time I’ve kept my camera in the bag and choose to savour the moment rather than capture a photograph. Later at night, we sit and gaze at the moon while playing carrom; Byron rolls a joint and everyone is merry.

The pool also operates as a lounge area for the travellers, who can dip their feet in and relax in the crystal clear water. Sometimes tourists play guitar at the site and enthral other visitors.

Next morning, I woke up late and met a few interesting people who were on a day trip to Nongriat. After a hearty breakfast, I made the account and paid Byron and headed to Tyrna village, which is the preferred way for the trek to Nongriat. It was around 11 am and the trail was a descent on cemented path first, through the forest. The scenery was lush and there were numerous water crossings on dangling bridges, but I was used to it now. The sun was becoming very strong and I had already started perspiring.

After 10 odd minutes of an easy trail, a sea of never ending stairs appeared. I crossed a few locals on a bridge who had began from Tyrna village in the early morning hours and were about to reach Nongriat. The scenery was magnificent but the non stop climb was taking its toll on the knees. Plus, I had a heavy backpack too. After walking for an hour, I came upon a villages on the way. There were a few shops selling snacks. A small signboard indicated the way to the living root single decker bridge.

Most of these shops were run by women. In Meghalaya, the Khasi tribals follow matrilineal culture. After the wedding, the husband of the youngest daughter goes to live with his wife’s family, who owns the property. Another interesting fact is that the children take on the surname of the mother. Interesting, is it not?!

My knees tremble and legs shake from the continuous climb. The slippery and swaying suspension bridges have given way and all I am doing is climbing approx. 3000 stairs to get back to the road at Tyrna.

After coming back, I hear about the news that the government is considering building a road in Nongriat valley : I have mixed feelings about it; in a place with such outstanding natural beauty, culture, and beautiful harmony between man and nature have sustained for centuries, a road might jeopardise the delicate balance between man and nature that has been maintained for so long.

Currently, Nongriat valley itself is only accessible by foot, thereby automatically limiting the number of visitors to a manageable level.

On the way I pass stacks of bay-leaf, trees with jackfruit, pepper and betel-nut trees, bamboo trees and many other herbs, ferns and other greenery. The villages are pretty and have small huts on a raised platform, built with wooden planks and a colonial-style small verandah. It is nice to take small breaks on the climb up and chat up with the locals.

After finally making it to the road in Tyrna village, I was happy to click the church and gaze at the colourful houses before reaching the highway from where I was more likely to find a vehicle that would take me back to Cherrapunjee.

More about Living Root Bridges :

A living root bridge is a unique natural wonder so important that the Umshiang double decker bridge is in the UNESCO world heritage list. The living root bridges are made by guiding strong roots of indigenous rubber trees by villagers over decades to interlace with each other and form a single bridge strong enough to support the movement of people.

Traditionally, the roots were guided across spaces by using the straight trunks of betel nut trees for increased support. These days, cables are also used as a base for root bridges. Umshiang, the double-decker root bridge in the Nongriat village, is around 200 years old. There are many living root bridges in this region of Meghalaya. The one at Mawlynnong village is popular with tourists because the village is accessible by road.

How to reach Nongriat?

From Shillong to Cherrapunjee is around 65 kms. Tyrna village is around 20 kms from Cherrapunjee and a few buses and shared taxis also ply regularly between Cherrapunjee and Tyrna. Thereafter it is a trek from Tyrna village, the double-decker root bridge at Nongriat is approx. 4 kms away. The path consists of a continuous downhill movement of 3,000 steps which passes through Nongthymmai and Mynteng villages.

Nongriat valley is a land of tales and legends, and myriad waterfalls falling from great heights. We stumbled upon secret pools and lagoons in the forest and had my most memorable experience in the north eastern region of India.

Bye bye Nongriat Valley.

Also read : Spiti Valley in Winter : A Travel Guide

A Detailed Travel Guide for Chopta, Tungnath, Chandrashila Trek

Khardung La in Winter : Part 1

The Goodness of Strangers : Curfew in Kashmir

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While the best time to visit this region is believed to be from May to September, when the plentiful rains drape the place in a resplendent green, it was incredibly beautiful in February too. My flexible plan had the name Nongriat on top of it; famous for the double-decker root bridge, one of the must-visit attractions in Meghalaya.

Check : A Backpacking Guide to Meghalaya

After staying for a night at a cheap hostel in Lower Sohra, I was unsure of where to go next. At the nearby breakfast place, I happened to talk to a traveller couple who were staying in the same hostel and decided to head to Nohkalikai falls. We were also keen to go to Nongriat after that, and therein lie the dilemma. The easier access to Nongriat was through the village of Tyrna which was opposite in direction to the road to Nohkalikai falls. After speaking to some locals, we found out that there was an alternative way to reach Nongriat : from Nohkalikai falls itself.

After enjoying our time gazing at the majestic waterfalls, we went for a short hike to the base of the waterfalls. It was incredible scenery to see the rocks in various designs and sizes shaped by the running water. Everything seemed to be in a orange hue and felt like a million years old. And then we came again to the viewpoint and enjoyed looking at the water falling from a height of 1100 ft, that also makes Nohkalikai waterfalls the highest plunge waterfall in India. The white coloured water falls into a lovely blue-green pool that is surrounded by lush greenery. I wondered if this place could get any more prettier during the monsoon season! And secretly hoped to come back when it rains.

It is already getting late and we are not sure of the way either and I am almost wondering if the trek to Nongriat from Nohkalikai Falls is such a great idea after all. Since me and Eldad and Erica (traveller couple) have decided to hike to Nongriat together, I don’t even want to leave alone. The clock shows 1 in the afternoon and we are finally having lunch at one of the local restaurants at the waterfall viewing point. Food is delicious and is priced at 60 Rupees (including refills) per person.

Check : Photo Story from Ziro Valley, Arunachal Pradesh

At around 1400 hrs, we pay the entry fee and cross the gates to begin the hike. I have picked up a small packet of cinnamon sticks from an old lady selling it for Rupees 10. The start proves tricky and we already know this isn’t going to be easy at all! As you may have guessed, we lose our way instantly and have to rush back and ask some locals for the ‘way to Nongriat.’

We are elated to see the first signboard pointing towards a steep downhill trail and confirm before descending that we have to follow this path till the very end. The locals tell us that this path is not used very frequently and that it is possible that we may not find anyone else on the trail. Further, we were told that it would take us around 3 hours to reach Nongriat beginning from the Nohkalikai Falls route.

Now, the facts : It was the first half of February and people who have been to the North-East would certainly know that sunsets in this part of the world happen ridiculously early.

For the record, as a solo traveller I make sure of reaching the intended destination in daylight. Travel brings with it rules as simple as common sense but the bigger picture is that when you are hiking / trekking with other people, everyone is together in it. The trekking path to Nongriat is a non-stop descent with uneven stones and within 40 odd minutes, Erica had began to struggle. The steep path was hurting her knees and it kept getting worse and worse. We had not even covered half the distance and I saw the clock cross 4 pm.

Read : A Mixed Experience – Mechuka in Arunachal Pradesh

I was loving the hike and was skilfully skipping through the landscape rather than putting my whole foot on the rocks. Mountain folks have taught me the fine art of descending on trails without exerting too much pressure on the knees. The sun was already behind the mountains and it was only a matter of minutes before it would steadily go dark.

Erica was stopping every 10 minutes and was almost on the verge of tears. Eldad began to sense my discomfort and suggested I should move ahead. To which I replied, ‘If we start a trek together; we make sure to end it together.’ This exchange brought a smile to everyone’s face and we began to enjoy the cool breeze blowing through the forest. At which point, the trail too flattened out and we were relieved to walk on plain surface for some time.

While we sat resting on the huge wooden logs on the side of the path, we heard the sounds of other human beings who were carrying sacks of bayleaf and dry wood from the forest. For a minute, I thought they were tribals and we were being attacked in the rapidly descending darkness. Thankfully, no such thing happened and the locals confirmed that we were on the right path. Another 40 minutes and we should reach Nongriat, they said. By the time we got up from our long break, it was totally dark and it was my turn to ask for help.

Both Eldad and Erica had headlamps but I was quite concerned with the lack of options with me. Eldad again noticed my predicament and asked me to not worry at all. He said that I could walk between Erica and him and that their lights would be sufficient for all of us. Hardly 10 odd minutes of resuming our hike, the path was now slowly ascending and we came in front of our first bridge! Now this wasn’t a normal concrete bridge.

I stood and shook at the sight of the bamboo and iron bridge. The sides had steel wires to hold onto for support, so I walked with the local walking stick in one hand, the mobile (for light) in the other while the bridge shook and swung when I walked over it. It was quite an unnerving experience to walk on it, with the sound of water flowing from below.

I heaved a sigh of relief after crossing this bridge but the joy was short lived as we were instantly in front of another scary looking ‘bridge’. All I could see was some stones put among the roots of trees; this was a mini living root bridge and turned out to be an easy crossing. We could still not see the lights of Nongriat village and it was pitch dark, although the time was only 5:30 pm. It was a full moon night and felt beautiful, although my mind was preoccupied with thoughts of having made a mistake by not reaching in the daylight.

Read : Doing the unthinkable – Solo Trekking to Zanskar

The North Eastern states have long been demanding a separate time zone for the region because the days in the North East begin early and end early. For instance, sunrise is usually at 5 am and it is totally dark by 5 pm.

After 5 minutes of walking on level ground, in front of us was a dangling monster of a bridge! I call it like that because the end of the bridge was nowhere to be seen from the starting point. The sound of water flowing beneath was terrifying and with the lack of a good light source with me, I was literally shaking. Eldad led the way and like soldiers on the march, we clung to the iron cables on both sides.

Eldad sang a song in Hebrew that meant, ‘Life is like a bridge and we don’t know whats on the other side.’ I remember this incident so well because the hum of the song enabled me to cross the bridge without thinking too much about the dangers. It was a smooth walk thereafter as we crossed an open field and the lights of Nongriat were seen in the distance.

Although I had started off thinking I’ll make a single post, but the memories of Nongriat are so vivid that it seems to be better to break it into two parts. In the next post, Life in Nongriat awaits. Psst… Secret pools and lagoons, rainbow waterfalls, double decker root bridge and the various folklores of Nongriat. Stay tuned?! As the telly promos say.

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Affordable flight fares to Guwahati from all parts of India has meant Meghalaya has become a happening ‘weekend destination’ for the well heeled traveller who wants to see and experience something new and offbeat. Theoretically it is possible to fly to Guwahati and explore Meghalaya over a long weekend of 4-5 days and go back via Guwahati airport without even going to Guwahati city. I would go as far as to say ‘Meghalaya is the new Ladakh!’

For those seeking a curated experience, consider exploring these Northeast India tour packages that cover Meghalaya and other hidden gems.

Here is a step-by-step guide for backpacking in Meghalaya :

Arrive in Guwahati

Take an early morning flight or just make sure your arrival time is latest around noon. The Gopinath Bordoloi airport in Guwahati is located on NH-40 and is bang on the highway to Shillong. A right turn on the main road outside the airport will take you to Shillong and the left one will take you to Guwahati. Distance of Shillong from Guwahati airport is 120 kms. This way one doesn’t necessarily have to go to Guwahati and can end up saving valuable time. Also, unlike many other states in the North East, Indian tourists don’t require a permit to visit Meghalaya.

Read : Experimenting with Luxury at Marina Bay Sands, Singapore

There are shared taxis available all the time just after you walk out of Guwahati airport (look for ML numbered – yellow number plate cars and SUVs). Some of them have come to drop tourists from Shillong and are most likely to ask passengers where they want to go. Rates can be negotiated and are around 200-300 Rupees per person. Meghalaya Tourism buses also ply between Guwahati airport and Shillong twice a day, ask at the MTDC tourism counter. If both these options don’t work, one can always wait on the main road and sit in one of the shared sumos that ply all day between Guwahati and Shillong (these charge 170/- per person) – from Khanapara in Guwahati.

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The road between Guwahati and Shillong is excellent and generally takes around 3 hours to cover. All shared taxis usually make a stop for snacks and food at Nongpoh (after entering the State border of Meghalaya). In Nongpoh, there are delicious pineapples on sale and variety of pickles that can be picked up at the time of the return journey. I won’t advise arriving in Shillong in the night if you don’t have pre-booked accommodation.

Shillong

Widely known as the rock capital of India, Shillong is a bustling city with a wide range of accommodation options. The shared taxi drop off point in Shillong is at Police Bazaar, from where you can either hire a local taxi or walk to wherever you want to go in Shillong. There are small dhabas near the PWD building where the taxi drops you and local Khasi snacks can be tried. Shillong is also the biggest town and capital city of Meghalaya and lies in the East Khasi Hills district.

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Staying in Shillong can be a costly affair although a few cheap places can be found near the Police Bazaar itself. There are a few eateries where authentic Khasi food can be sampled in Shillong Bazaar. Dylan fans and other shenanigans aside, Shillong does have some fine music and cafés with a dazzling array of offerings. There are frequent buses and shared taxis to all parts of Meghalaya from Shillong.

Places to visit in Shillong : Ward’s Lake, Shillong Golf Course, Elephant Falls, Smit, Don Bosco Museum of Indigenous Cultures, archery at Siat Khnam, Mawphlang sacred forests. Umiam Lake (Also called Barapani) is around 15 kms before reaching Shillong and is quite serene when there are clouds floating by.

Cherrapunjee (Also called Sohra) 

The distance from Shillong to Cherrapunjee is hardly 55 kms and usually takes less than two hours to cover. There are cute yellow coloured shared taxis (charge Rs. 70/-) and buses (charge Rs. 50/-) that ply all day from near Bada Bazaar in Shillong. The Bada Bazaar is a market place to buy all sorts of produce and fruits.

Buses and taxis drop passengers to the main market in Upper Cherrapunjee (locally called Sohra) near the Sumo taxi stand. There are a few homestays near the main market where local products can be bought. There’s a popular hostel for backpackers in lower Sohra and another dormitory option too for budget travellers.

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Attractions and places to see in Cherrapunjee : There’s a weekly market in upper Sohra held on a different day every week, ask the locals for the same when you are there. Dympep viewpoint has fabulous landscapes of the canyons en-route Cherrapunjee. Rama Krishna Mission Ashram is in upper Sohra and is a must visit for its Tribal Khasi Museum.

Nohkalikhai waterfalls are the fourth highest in the world. They make for a grand sight and lie only 4 kms from Cherrapunjee. One can walk to the top of the waterfalls via a 40 minute path and experience other waterfalls and strange rock formations on the way to the top. Mawsmai caves is also a must visit place with fascinating stalactites and stalagmites. Mawsynram is the wettest place on earth (Cherrapunjee’s claim to fame!). Among other places to visit are Dainthlen falls, Khasi Monoliths and the 1846 built First Presbyterian Church.

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Living root bridges of Nongriat : The most fascinating activity and attractions around Cherrapunjee is the trek to the ‘double decker root bridge’ of Nongriat village. There are two routes for the same; the first one (easier) is from Tyrna village and involves a descent of around 3000 steps while the second one is a long trek that begins from the view point of Nohkalikai waterfalls. Tyrna village is approx. 26 kms away from Cherrapunjee.

It is advisable to stay for at least one day in Nongriat to allow the knees to rest and enjoy nature’s bounties. There are many living root bridges (indigenous method of the villagers to make bridges with roots of growing trees) in close vicinity of Nongriat.

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There are affordable stay options in Nongriat and it is a great place to see rural life of the Khasi tribe of Meghalaya. Walk to the spectacular rainbow waterfall and stumble around to find natural pools of water. I highly recommend spending lots of time around both these sites. There’s a small church in Nongriat and also one in Tyra. Allow 3 hours to walk back to Tyrna village from Nongriat. Hitch a ride with one of the vehicles from Tyrna that is headed to Cherrapunjee.

Dawki/Shnongpdeng

If you have seen rustic boats floating in crystal clear water in photographs of Meghalaya on the internet, most chances are that they are taken on the Umngot river. Dawki is the last village on the Indian side of the Bangladesh border of Tamabil. The route to Dawki bifurcates around 25 kms on the Cherrapunjee-Shillong highway; so one can access it from Cherrapunjee without having to go to Shillong again.

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There are regular buses and shared sumos going to Dawki all day from Shillong (Bada Bazaar) and the distance is around 80 kms. The plains of Bangladesh are visible as the bus makes its way to Dawki. Dawki is located right on the highway and is in fact a dirty town. It makes sense to go to a small hamlet by the name of Shnongpdeng to experience the beauty of the pristine waters of Umngot river. Shnongpdeng is 7 kms away from Dawki and is accessible by a rough road, shared taxis are available.

There are a few homestays in Shnongpdeng, most are cute structures made of bamboo and stand on a stilt, prices charged are around 400-700 Rupees. The river bank resembles a Goa type of atmosphere with shacks and bamboo huts scattered around a small beach. Camping options are available too in Shnongpdeng. The best time to photograph is from early morning till 2 pm in the afternoon. Aerial shots can be taken from the bridges in Shnongpdeng and Dawki and one can also enjoy boat rides on Umngot river.

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Attractions near Dawki Shnongpdeng : Activities like scuba diving, cliff jumping, fishing, snorkelling, rafting, zip lining can be experienced depending on the season.

Mawlynnong has been bestowed the title of the cleanest village in India; there’s a bamboo skywalk to reach a viewpoint with a landscape of Bangladesh plains. Riwai living root bridge is closeby and can be seen if one has not visited Nongriat.

Food in Meghalaya

While both vegetarian and non-vegetarian food is easily available, sometimes on Sundays (when most businesses are closed) vegetarians may have an issue. Keep emergency food ready with you and remember that fruits are available in plenty in Meghalaya. Enjoy nature’s goodness!

Other information :

English is widely spoken by Khasi people across Meghalaya but in remote towns it is possible for someone to not know both Hindi and English. Do not fret, sign language works best when there is a language barrier.

Meghalaya and most States in the north east practice a matrilineal system, where women take the family name and are dominant in the household affairs. Most shops are managed by women. Observe this welcome change while you are in Meghalaya.

Meghalaya takes its holidays seriously and Sunday mass is widely attended by everyone. There is singing in the church and all men and women are smartly dressed while all shops and local taxis are on holiday.

Kwai is local betelnut that everyone seems to enjoy all the time everywhere in Meghalaya (and the entire northeast). You can try it too, remember to ask the locals to give you kwai with as little of the white accompaniment as possible.

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