I made the journey from Kurseong to Mirik by shared sumo locally called as Syndicate in this region. In Mirik, I stayed at Haamro Ghar Homestay and I highly recommend them if you are planning to visit Mirik. Sumendu Lake is the highlight of this tiny town that is spread around the lake that also boasts of a monastery.

A Journey in Photographs of Two Days in Mirik

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Since the sumo hasn’t started yet, we are not aware of its dilapidated condition. The engine seems to be in a perpetual state of repair and the doors feel like they can come off anytime! We wait (as if we could do any better) and are pleased to come across a Lal chai seller on the street. Sumo guy is good to go after we are joined by 2 young schoolgirls headed to their homes. There is no need to keep our bags on the carrier since there is plenty of room in the back. 

We are on our way to Mon at 730 am and choose to ignore the piece of information that the first sumo has left at 530 am. It is the sumo guy’s first trip to Mon after a break of more than a month. There is also a Nagaland State Transport (NST) bus that runs from Sonari to Mon but thats supposed to be scheduled to leave at 11 am; this time means that by the time we reach Mon, the shared sumo to Longwa would already have left. 

Whenever we tell or ask a local in Sonari about heading to Nagaland, they tell us to eat well in Assam itself because we wont find anything to eat in Nagaland! The sumo guy halts for a while and we are still in Assam near a tea garden town; I finally ask a local why they say that we won’t be able to eat anything in Nagaland? Pat comes the reply, ‘The Nagas in Mon eat everything that moves’, I’ve heard that before and let out a small chuckle. 

The aroma of fried pooris and a dry potato vegetable being freshly made along with chapatis on a tawa is enticing and I ask the street seller to serve me a plate. It turns out to be delicious and I adhere to the golden rule of eating while its possible! We are hopeful of reaching Mon in time to sort out the permit issue and figure a way for the shared taxi to Longwa. However, the sumo guy was as laid back as one can be and kept stopping and chatting with almost every other passerby on the road. Anyhow, the tea garden town is nicer and I decide to make good use of the stop to eat! 

I eat to my hearts content and am pleasantly surprised when the amount to pay is a measly 40/50 Rupees. The sumo guy is simply going around and meeting everyone and asking what the rates of corruption are! We would later come to know all about the corruption later; that the sumo guys are supposed to pay the road mafia for an entire month and only then can they ply with passengers from Sonari to Mon. Since it was just the start of the month, we were sort of caught in the wrong date and witness to a prevalent system of bribery. 

His friend has also bought some stuff (maybe to be sold in Nagaland.) We start again and the landscape keeps getting greener and the civilisation is non-existent. The road continues and we enter Nagaland at Tizit gate. There’s a bridge and a big Naga symbol proclaiming ‘Welcome to Mon district, land of Ahng Nagaland’. 

It already feels like a different world with rudimentary tin structures functioning as dhabas and shops selling bare essential commodities; villagers carrying guns and our frail sumo guy stopping to be checked where every vehicle is stationed. There is a police check post; I notice the truck guys running to the police check post with more cash than documents! The locals are chewing betel nut and roaming around in shorts. I am unsure what to do with no permit in hand, and one of the police guys on the road signals us to come to the check post. 

The 2 local Naga girls are let off without any questions and we are asked for permits. The check post is in reality a makeshift police chowki, I tell the Konyak officer that we are coming from Arunachal and don’t have a permit. He starts making a day pass for us and asks us for everyone’s aadhar cards. The details are filled without a fuss, just as I am beginning to think he’s a very helpful police officer I notice the truck guy paying 800 Rupees for entering through the check post. I try telling him to make a 2-3 day permit for us as we intend to only stay for that duration in Mon district but he reasons that he’s only authorised to give a 1 day temporary permit.

He says it can be easily extended in Mon Police Station. I thank him, grab the permit documents and rush to the sumo before he can change his mind and ask for some money! The assistant of the police officer turns out to be a shrewd chap and quickly catches us before we start the sumo. Our lazy sumo driver doesn’t help by not being around and I end up going back to the police chowki and am asked for 200 Rupees per person as a fee. I sheepishly ask the police officer where is the 200 Rs. rule written and slip a 500 Rupee note towards him. 

I had made small talk about Hornbill Festival and other parts of Nagaland like Pfutsero, Kohima, Mokokchung so maybe he was a bit kinder but still pocketed the 500 Rupees and continued chewing on the betel nut. We also asked him if the Mon Police Station guy will try to take money from us to extend our permits. He mumbles that we should tell him that the money has already been paid in Tizit. According to him, it was a routine procedure for us of extending our permits and that it won’t take much time. 

We felt triumphant and sat in the sumo with a haughty air! One of the meagre establishments doubling up as a dao maker seems to be making omelettes served in dirty plates and charging a princely sum of 100 Rupees for his troubles! 

I notice the time on the watch and figure that we have hardly covered 15 kilometres and inspite of already spending close to 2 hours on the road! The date is 2 October, starting of the month so the sumo guy has to pay everyone and everywhere and get a pass. Gandhi Jayanti celebrations and a cleaning campaign by the school kids feels like an alien proceeding in this far off region of Nagaland. 

On the road, signs of Christianity are quite prevalent with signboards and messages. I spot the Tizit Village Baptist Church and a big signboard proclaiming ‘Christ is the head of Tizit Village’. As always, I have my eye on everything on the road and excitedly make a mental note when a road bifurcates towards the village of Shangsa. 

The sumo guy has to stop every 15-20 minutes to pay a bribe to the officials. While we were earlier laughing and enjoying the game, we get bored of it in no time and ask him more details. He tells us that most of the bribe takers are the police folks and mentions that they take 300-500 Rupees. We wonder how the sumo guy makes money, and then he makes us understand that after paying all the bribes he will get a badge to be put on the vehicle that essentially means he has paid for the month and can make as many trips as he wants! 

The road itself is in okay-ish shape, much better than we anticipated. There is a tar road in some places and big potholes are the norm otherwise. After a while of more paying of bribes, the sumo guy finally gets a tag of monthly pass on the windshield. I think its a total payment of INR 2500-3000 and it seems kind of ok that he won’t really have to pay anything for the entire month. 

The Naga girls are quite angry with him and even called their parents to complain about the sumo guy along with the sumo number! When we finally sit back and assume that now we will straight head to Mon town, some Naga locals stop the sumo and ask the driver to come out. We are a little perturbed but it turns out to be just a friendly encounter! The Naga schoolgirls have been chit-chatting non-stop and we can’t understand head or tail of the conversation!  

It was quite humid when we had started from Sonari in the morning but has now progressed to a pleasant breeze as we neared Mon. Mon town felt like it was situated on a hillock. The sumo guy tells us that there are many Rajasthani traders settled in Mon, that indeed comes as a big surprise. We tried telling him to drop us near the Police Station in Mon but he advised that we would be better off first booking our seats on the Mon to Longwa shared sumo. Our arrival in Mon was further delayed when some other sumo drivers informed our sumo guy that some sort of checking was going on and we ended up reaching Mon only by a supremely bumpy road in the jungle! 

It turns out to be a good decision as there are only 4 seats left (Inr 170 per seat) on the Mon to Longwa shared sumo and the sumo counter guy tells us that the last sumo of the day will leave at 2 pm. We have reached at 1215 pm and there seems to be plenty of time to find the Police Station and extend the permit. Two of us ask the way to the Police Station in Mon and make an uphill climb to reach an open sort of area and the Police Station is right across us. 

The locals line up the road near the sumo counter and are selling exotic looking fruits and vegetables. The prices are also quite cheap and if we were staying in Mon, I would definitely have picked up something. I spot a fancy looking eatery in the market. It is about a kilometre long uphill climb to the Police Station and once inside I speak to the officer in-charge for extending our permits. He demands to see all 4 of us! 

We tell him that 2 people are a little older and therefore they are waiting at the Sumo Counter. We ask him for a 3 day permit extension but he doesn’t seem very keen on more than 2 days extension. In a troublesome turn of events, he asks me the name of my local guide and our place of stay. We are asked for our id’s and he notes down the details in a register. In reality, we have not booked anything and haven’t spoken to anybody either but my mind reacts quickly and I tell the Police Officer that we have contacted Longsha Wangnao from Longwa and he is our contact. 

The Police officer then asks me to note down the contact of Longsha and I am able to note down his number from my research. I have my heart in my mouth when the Police officer makes a call but thankfully due to the terrible mobile network in Mon, the call doesn’t go through. He narrates a past experience of some tourists from Bangalore who accidentally ventured into Myanmar and were captured by a terrorist group. Then the Army had to get involved and ultimately all this gets the Police Guys in trouble. So, he wants to make doubly sure we don’t venture where we are not supposed to be. 

In a lighter vein, the Police officer tells us that there is nothing to see in Longwa or Mon district and that we must get out of here soon. Along with another officer, they seemingly make a funny joke on us. He tries to call Longsha again and thankfully Longsha’s phone is out of network! I worry thinking what might have happened if the call had connected and Longsha saying that he had no booking with him. 

Finally, the Police officer stamps the extension papers and tells us to revisit the Police station in Mon when we come back from Longwa. We grab the papers and rush to the sumo counter, whilst I kept trying to call Longsha all the time. The bad network issues persist and I am unable to connect with him even though the phone sometimes rings. The time is about 115 now and we are super hungry and a bit tense as well! 

We reach the sumo counter and are relieved to know that the sumo number has been given and that we will leave in some time. There’s another sumo for Longwa stationed and all sorts of packages like chickens, potatoes and groceries are being piled up on the carrier. I am finally able to connect with Longsha and tell him to book 2 rooms for us and also tell him about the Police officer trying to call him. He confirms that he has not had any contact with any Police guy and that our rooms are booked for INR 800 per room. Longsha tells me that he is also in Mon for his daughter’s function in school and that his brother Nockao will receive us in Longwa. 

We heave a collective sigh of relief and head to a nearby ramshackle eatery. I had spotted an inviting bakery in the main market but decided not to buy anything being almost certain that the stuff made will be from maida only. The tea shop opposite to the sumo counter is a safer bet since it is close-by. There’s only tea and rusks on offer and I am pleased when the tea turns out to be actually good. I thank the relatively friendly owners and step out to buy a bottle of water, where I am asked for INR 30 for a bottle of water with an MRP of INR 20 because I am an ‘Indian’.

It is fun to sit at the shared sumo counter and indulge in people watching – most locals carry guns in a sling! At the stroke of 2 pm, our shared sumo arrives and we are supremely excited to get out of Mon. I happen to chat with a Social Worker for the church who lives as a tenant in Longsha’s home. He assures me that we will be dropped exactly in front of Longsha’s house in Longwa and that we need not worry about the location. 

Everyone’s bags are hauled up on the carrier of the sumo and we sit in the back even though our seat numbers are of the middle seat. We are stuffed with onions, potatoes, chickens and meat in the back beneath our feet under the seat. There is no space to even think about stretching our legs but we are happy to just get out of Mon and will bear the hardship. A passing conversation with someone confirms the fact that there are many Rajasthani businessmen settled in Mon since a long time and they pay protection money to be safe! 

I come across a signboard in the market. Network Travels and Lucky Travels in Mon seem to run a few services too. Mon to Wakching 12 noon, Mon to Shiyong 12 noon, Mon to Naginimora 12 noon, Mon to Dimapur 3 pm – Night Service. We finally start our journey to Longwa at about 220 pm and are told that the 40 odd km distance will take 2 hours. The road is predictably in bad shape and almost merges with the green forest. It is broken in patches but still better than the Sonari to Mon road. The road is maintained by BRO (Border Roads Organisation) because this region shares a border with Burma (Myanmar). 

After 1 hour of the journey, the sumo stops at a local dhaba where the ladies are selling farm produce. The bananas are massive in size and are priced at INR 5 per piece. The guavas are tiny and are packed in polythene bags and are sold for INR 10 per polythene (about 15-18 pieces in a polythene). Also on offer are squash, bamboo shoots, chillies, locally brewed alcohol, cassava, sweet potatoes, pumpkins, small pineapples, beans and papaya. I am ecstatic to buy the guavas and bananas to satiate my hunger. They are nice and fresh and taste super yummy as well. 

We are back on the road, it is a quiet and peaceful drive. Apparently there are more than 50 villages of the headhunters in Mon district and about 15 villages where we can still come across headhunters. The sumo stops right at the entrance of Longwa and we are dropped at Longsha’s home which is located near the Helipad. It is a nice big road where 2 vehicles can easily cross. 

Nockao (Longsha’s brother) welcomes us and shows us the way to our rooms. They are located in an annexe, it is a concrete building which is opposite to the main house. The rooms itself are bare bones basic, there is no water supply in the bathrooms! It is about to get dark, so we put our bags and make ourselves acquainted with the layout of the room. 

Nockao takes us to the main house. It is a huge home made in the traditional style with ample use of wood, bamboo and thatched leaves. There are exquisitely carved figures of a Konyak tribal man & woman at the entrance of the house and also a log drum. The first room after we enter is like a hall with a massive ceiling. There is a carrom-board in the room and there are souvenirs for sale spread on a table. We keep walking curiously in the dimly lit interiors and come to the kitchen part. Across the house, the walls are occupied with wooden artwork in different shapes, designs and traditionally carved hangings. 

Among the souvenirs are necklaces, wooden masks, smoking pipes, metal masks, statues, bone work, necklaces made from bones, paintings and rustic art on wood. Longsha’s traditional home in Longwa indeed feels like a different world. Nockao plays church gospel songs on his phone. The kitchen area is very dark and the layout feels very common in the northeast – There’s a hearth with a sizeable hanging 2 layered logs of wood and varieties of meat hanging near the fire (to smoke it over a period of time). It reminds me of an Apatani kitchen! 

Nockao’s parents and a cousin is also sitting around the kitchen and we share illegible conversations as the parents don’t understand hindi or english while we don’t understand Naga. Nockao informs us that while everyone in the village is a Konyak, Wangnao is a title given to the chiefs of a clan. Longsha is the eldest brother and happens to be a local leader in this part of town. Nockao is 25 years old and we are surprised to know that his mom and dad are almost 70 years old but are very strong and well built.

We tip-toe around the house and notice skulls of bison and other wild animals with a wood painted panel depicting hunting, kitchen fire, and scenes from daily life. Through broken conversations, we come to know that Nockao’s father took part in a headhunting victory but didn’t take a head. Mom is quite chirpy and starts cooking a vegetarian dinner for us. We are served locally grown black tea in plastic mugs. 

I try to fix the price for food with Nockao since the room prices have been cleared with Longsha. My prior experience with ambiguity hasn’t been so good and although he agrees to my offer of the total price of INR 1200 for 2 people including food and a guiding fee of INR 1000 for the village tour the next day, there is no proper confirmation and I know that there will be a surprise whenever we ask for the bill payment before leaving! I can blame it on the corruption in the entire region and a homestay in Nagaland is no exception. 

Nockao’s dad shows us the pig stable where the pig is being kept and fed for the Christmas Feast. His food is the massive bark of the root of the banana tree; they boil it with many nutritious things and feed him. The pig is so huge that it is almost scary to look at it. Before it goes totally dark, we go for a quick walk to the outskirts of the village near the helipad. We cross a few old houses with the same pattern of thatched roof made from palm leaves, and made from bamboo. The houses look very big and sturdy though, in my mind I am comparing them to the Adi Longhouses in Along, Arunachal Pradesh. 

My ever inquisitive mind finds out that a road near Longwa leads to the villages of Phumching & Nyahnyu. There are Tangnyu and Chen Town villages from Mon accessible by a road. A steady drizzle continues and the pitter patter of rain accompanies us everywhere in the lush greenery. The road itself is full of big potholes and slush. We figure that its better to use these open spaces for peeing rather than using a washroom with no water supply. The weather in Longwa is misty and foggy and we are able to see a faint outline of the evening colours amid the dense cloud cover. 

We hear Church songs from one of the homes on our way back; Christian missionaries are said to have played a big part in the decline of headhunting in Longwa and everyone in the region practises Christianity now. The sky clears a little bit and we see nice landscapes with the last light of the day; there are rolling hills interspersed with fields and homes. Every farm has a small grain storage space and a small house to stay during the harvest. It is getting a bit chilly and we are glad to return to the warmth of the fire in the darkness. 

The locals in Longwa are not really friendly as such; whoever comes to the kitchen meeting others doesn’t bother greeting us. I ask Nockao about Longwa’s opium addiction and he triumphantly tells us that the locals of Longwa have decided to put an end to the opium menace and that Longwa has been opium free for the last 3 months or so. He also supports this with facts that the Young Konyak’s Association (Longsha is an influential member of that) has very strict rules. 

Dinner is served even before 7 pm. There is a wide variety of dishes. Eggs, locally grown white rice, fried potatoes, leaves curry, spinach, dall and a kuzhumbu chutney from Sri Krishna Sweets that a friend has carried from Chennai! Contrary to what we were warned against in Assam, the food has turned out to very tasty and we end up eating in copious quantities. The locals in Longwa grow a variety of veggies and leaves and also white rice, brown rice and red rice and they are all extremely tasty and healthy. 

Since Longsha’s family is quite accustomed to having tourists they keep oil and masalas for tempering; otherwise the Konyak food (like most parts of Nagaland) is predominantly boiled with almost no masalas. We thank the family for a grand dinner while Nockao is listening to Church gospel songs. The villagers take turns to play the carrom and it looks like winners to stay and losers go out as the rules. We are served black tea post dinner and the mom explains that every household grows their own tea leaves in the rolling hills of Longwa. 

We tell Nockao that we will need his services as a guide to accompany us in Longwa and say good night to everyone else. There is electricity, so we head to our rooms and chit-chat for a bit and then head off to sleep after charging our devices. We aim to head back to Mon and Sonari day after tomorrow by the 7 am shared sumo that leaves from Longwa. We try and sleep and are made aware of the not-so-clean-beds and blankets. Thankfully, all of us are pretty tired and somehow make do with the circumstances. 

We wake up early after a good night’s sleep and have a chai first thing early in the morning. It is a glorious day with blue skies and clouds forming in the far distance. The hills are gentle and rolling and lush green; we can also spot some other Konyak villages as well. There are a few homes being made with tins while most of the new construction is in concrete. We set off with Nockao to walk around Longwa. 

Kids are roaming about with their slings and trying to hit birds. At first, we wonder if they are actually trying to hit the birds but later when we see locals sporting hats made from monkey hair, we realise maybe the birds are a delicacy for the kids to eat! Who knows, after all the Nagas are known to eat anything and everything that moves! The kids are quite rowdy and ill-mannered and threaten to hit us when we request them not to kill the birds. 

Although most locals are not keen on conversations; sometimes when we end up talking, they invariably ask ‘Are you from India?’, as if they genuinely believe that currently Nagaland is not on Indian soil. Anyway, it is well known that the village of Longwa lies both in Myanmar and India and the Angh (King’s home) straddles the boundaries of both nations. 

There’s an army check point in the middle of the town; Longwa is a massive village with about 300-400 homes. The army guys get our entry done & check our permits. There seem to be different routes in the village and one can see Myanmar locals freely roam around on a peculiar sort of bike – Canda. We continue our walk to the India – Myanmar border stone from 1970-71. One side of the border is Myanmar and the other side is India. We sit for a while and enjoy the proceedings; it is stark sunshine while the other part of the valley is covered in clouds. 

Except the army check post, there is no visible security at the border stone. A church can be seen from this raised platform and many houses of the spread out village of Longwa. It is nice and sunny, and a pleasant breeze is blowing too! Myanmar seems even more densely forested as we look from this vantage point. No wonder the police guy had tried to make sure we are with a local in Longwa as its easy to get lost in the jungles of Myanmar if someone loses their way. 

There are flowers of different colours blooming where we stand. Only a dirt road is visible in the rudimentary infrastructure of Myanmar. Even the locals in Longwa are driving a Canda bike (maybe its made in China). There are numerous BRO signboards as we wander around town. Every kid in Longwa carries a beautiful colourful bag. I have seen these bags across the northeast and every tribe seems to have a different pattern and design. One common thing is that these are all woven on a backstrap loom. 

On the walk across Longwa, we come across 2-3 other headhunters as well. They can be distinctly identified by their facial tattoos and the fact that they show signs of irrational behaviour of hiding when they spot a camera or a tourist. There are a number of shops in Longwa; paan shop, grocery shop, tailor, essentials, petrol is sold in 1 litre bottles. Apparently, the only outsider in the entire village is one guy from Shekhawati, Rajasthan! He runs a shop there but funnily enough I miss meeting him. 

It would have been fascinating to converse with him and discuss why did he decide to do business in Longwa, of all places! We are fascinated to know that locals here require no permit or visa to go to Myanmar and the same goes for Myanmar locals into Nagaland. It is a novel feeling to be able to notice homes located inside the boundary of Myanmar. The Primary School in Longwa seems like a newly built structure and its fun to see kids playing football without a care in the world. 

We keep walking and reach the Angh’s house in Longwa (Angh means King in the Konyak dialect). It is a unique house, with half of it located in India and half in Myanmar. Its a popular joke that the king of Longwa eats in India and sleeps in Myanmar as the kitchen is in India and his bedroom is in Myanmar! The house has a sort-of a museum status; among many interesting things the bed is antique with wood carvings. There’s a proper log drum kept in the house as well. Skulls of many different types of animals are spread throughout the house. A signboard outside the house informs visitors that the house has been refurbished and built with Government’s help. 

Once we get to the other side of the Angh’s house, there are a number of souvenir sellers sitting in the verandah. On show are tribal accessories like necklaces, bracelets, statues, bone accessories, metal masks, bags and wooden mugs and masks and figurines. The prices quoted are quite exorbitant but I presume that the exclusivity of the stuff warrants them. The locally made traditional Naga jewellery seems to be reasonably priced and I end up buying quite a few of the stuff. 

Among the 3-4 sellers, only 1 seems to know the prices of the products. It is super jumbling to try and buy anything as conversations don’t have a common language and they keep disagreeing after agreeing with the price! I also spot an army officer in making a bargain to buy some souvenirs. Just outside the Angh’s house, I come across a signboard for a nicely built homestay – just in time because I wanted to pee badly! 

It starts drizzling as soon as we are back to continue our walk in Longwa. We still continue and reach the end of the village, where the landscape is a pretty shade of green with the clouds and red flowers. There’s an army camp close to the end of the road and we turn back from there. There’s a sizeable Morung with hanging skulls to our right and I take the chance to ask Nockao to tell us more about it, as its anyway drizzling and a chance for us to do things differently. The morung is empty right now and seems to be hardly used except a few occasions. 

Since we started quite early and the rain has changed the usual course of the exploration in Longwa, we end up getting back to our homestay and are pleased to know that its lunch time! For all the talk of us going hungry in Nagaland, we are actually relishing the food. There’s an array of local dishes for lunch – red rice, leaves, potatoes, salad, squash, dall. The red rice is extremely delicious and light. We eat in copious quantities and relax for a while. 

Nockao asks us if we want to visit a few headhunters in the vicinity. We go and meet 1-2 headhunters but the story has been so overdone, all of us are not really interested especially when we are told that we can click as many photographs as we want for a pre-agreed price. One thing is certain, nobody seems to be into the opium habit anymore. Nockao disappears after some time; we spot him with a bunch of Indian day-tourists who must have been staying in Mon. So much for being a guide for the whole day, I think to myself. 

Aunty gives us black tea; it is about 3 pm and the Indian tourists are going clickety-clack with their cameras – A headhunter is posing with a metal necklace and traditional earrings. I am not to be left behind a click a solitary photograph since the group has already paid for this. You are expected to pay INR 200 when you meet / photograph a headhunter. We head out in the direction of the helipad now that the rain has stopped. 

The sky is bathed in mellow colours. The sun is playing hide and seek and the intermittent periods of sunshine make the greenery look even more beautiful. It is easily the most surreal evening of the entire trip in Nagaland. A few local boys are also loitering around since we are near a school and for a change we are able to converse normally with them. It is an epic sunset with yellow, orange and pink hues and is unbelievably beautiful the rolling hills and as if on cue, we decide to make our way out of Longwa the next day. 

We make it back to the homestay and request for an early dinner and also to book 4 seats in the earliest sumo for Mon. There is a little bit of daylight left so we rush to pack our bags so that we are prepared to leave early morning even if there is no electricity in the night. Dinner is yummy as usual and I ask Nockao to buy 1 kg of red rice. He is ecstatic that we have liked their local produce and tells me its only 20 Rs. per kilo and that I don’t have to pay for it. 

He makes a huge bill for us though and even though we had discussed a flat rate of INR 1200 per room including food, the bill comes with a separate 200 INR per meal charge! We pay the required amount (no point bothering) and chat with Nockao’s mom and dad and thank them. Longsha has some work in Mon, so he doesn’t come during our stay and we are unable to meet our saviour. 

We say our goodnights and go off to sleep. The shared taxi duly arrives at 7 am. We load our bags and leave after having a quick round of black tea. The seats are super comfortable since the sumo is not full and there is ample space to sit. We are repeatedly told that Aoling festival in April is the best time to be in Longwa when the Konyaks are dressed at their traditional best. We discuss that it would be fun to return someday if the bureaucracy wasn’t that difficult! 

The shared sumo stops in the same place and this time I decide to let go of buying anything. We reach Mon at 10 am, delayed for some time because there was a roadblock on the way. I am hoping that the Mon to Sonari shared taxis will be available easily. Alas, that is not to be! We are left with no choice but to ask at the taxi stand for a ride to Sonari. We are quoted the most outrageous prices on the planet – a battered van asks for 10,000 INR without flinching an eyelid! I get a bit angry and tell him he should have asked for INR 20,000 since he has to come back as well. Haha. 

Someone takes us for ransom and seemingly we have no choice but to pay INR 300 per seat for a shared sumo to Tizit. We reach Tizit at 1 pm. It is a breeze from Tizit to Sonari as we get a ride in an auto for a total of INR 200. As soon as we are near Assam, the prices show a semblance of normalcy. 

Bye bye Longwa. Perhaps, we will return someday in our own cars to try and explore some of the far off villages. 

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We get lucky when Manash’s friends who hail from Dibrugarh informed him that they had some space in their car if we could somehow ‘adjust!’ Now we all know how we adjust in India; it was the last row of the Honda Mobilio and we were 3 grown-up adults. At best, the space was barely enough for 2 people. My co-travellers were both over 6 feet tall and we had fully stuffed backpacks in our laps. It was a comical scene and as I write this in hindsight; the hosts of the car – Ronal and his friends were very considerate to stop the car almost every hour to enable us to stretch our legs. When we sat in the car, Longwa seemed far far away!

We had started our journey from Ziro at 1030 am after the bus for Guwahati left. It was a challenge to make Ronal understand that his car was our only way out of Ziro. Thankfully he understood our predicament even though he was adamant that it would be very uncomfortable and I found a middle ground by suggesting that we could tag-along with them till Potin (which was a bifurcating point for many roads in Arunachal Pradesh) with more likelihood of finding a shared sumo/bus/other public transport.

I’d done a basic research of a Sumo from Ziro to Dibrugarh but since it was a day when everyone was getting out of Ziro; the taxi guys quoted an astronomical range of INR 18000-20000 for a drop to Dibrugarh! Even by usually very expensive north-east standards; that was way too much for 230 kms! On an overcast morning when we left, we had little breakfast; paranthas, black tea, thelpas and pickle that we had carried with us! Once we crossed the shared sumo stand in Hapoli (Ziro); the enormity of the situation was evident when we observed the hordes of youngsters standing with their backpacks on the road – in hope of a ride!

After hardly 30 minutes of leaving from Ziro, it started drizzling and we were stuck in a traffic jam as a bus had got stuck in slush. We got a breather from sitting and wandered outside even though it was raining. I wondered if the folks waiting had a better chance of hitching a ride if they stood on the highway out of Ziro since a lot of the local attendees were going back to Naharlagun / Itanagar. It was fun to observe the locals when the bus was stuck : A Nyishi tribal man was surveying the scene in his elaborate headgear.

Only a few two-wheelers were able to manoeuvre their way through the blocked road. This traffic jam has given an opportunity to Ronal to rearrange the baggage and he somehow fits 2 backpacks in the boot. Now, only my 15-20 kilo backpack was is kept on us and its a lot more easier when the weight is spread. In the meantime, the Police have arrived and they are bringing a rope to somehow get the bus out. Ronal and his friends (Doctor, engineer, scientists) have a few conversations with us and realise we are chilled out and will make it to Dibrugarh, inspite of the strife!

The rope has arrived and the bus is moved from the centre of the road; clearing the traffic jam. All the vehicles start moving; and we reach Potin in 2 hours; at about 1 pm. Potin is one of the entry points for getting into Arunachal Pradesh from Assam. The road is excellent here; unlike the mud and slushy road from Ziro to Potin that has turned even worse due to the constant rain in the past 2 weeks. We are a bit hungry but don’t dare to eat because there is barely any space to sit and an extra inch on the bellies can seriously hurt us! So, even though Ronal & Co. stop in Potin for lunch; we just roam around and decide to eat on the next stop.

I’ve carried back 2 bottles of the locally made fruit wines with me; one is a pear wine & the other one is a pineapple wine. Its time to share one of the bottles with Ronal & his friends and they all love it.

Read : Trekking to Dzuköu Valley, Nagaland

In Potin, the road bifurcates for Guwahati/Itanagar/Naharlagun. I noticed an APSTC bus from Ziro to Itanagar costing only 150 INR per seat. Arunachal Pradesh has become so much better with the public transport in the last few years. We resume our journey at about 130 pm and we are feeling so much better after the much needed break and breather to let our legs feel normal again. My wishful thinking says we should hopefully make it to Dibrugarh by about 7 pm – it felt impractical to even dream about reaching Dibrugarh by daylight.

I was also hoping that it was possible for us to get seats on a bus headed to Dibrugarh from North Lakhimpur (a town that we would be crossing later). Nice playlist of songs in the car; we make another stop at one of the fruit sellers on the highway. I ogle at the pineapples & guavas. The pineapples are at 10 Inr per piece and we are juicy (like always in the northeast); so we gobble a lot of them and I end up buying a kilo of guavas to be shared with everyone. I thank Ronal and give 1100 INR (handed over by Manash) as fuel expenses. We have covered good distance as the road is now in much better condition and are about to enter Assam.

I am not certain but we must have taken the Kimin border road. We stop for a breather in the town that is surrounded by tea gardens. I spot few ladies on the street selling sel roti and pickle! It is as delicious as it would be in Nepal/Kalimpong and we enjoy the unexpected bounty! We all take a moment to thank Ronal and his friends for being extremely considerate and stop the car after every 1-2 hours so that we can stretch our legs and prepare ourselves to sit again in the cramped space. We experience moments of excruciating pain because we can’t move and the entire weight of the backpack comes on the knees.

The weather suddenly feels quite hot once we enter Assam and the windows are rolled up and the ac is put on. Its nice and cool now in the car and we are happy after entering Assam, in the knowledge that we should make it to Dibrugarh in respectable time. The distance left is about 180 kms and the road is a proper highway so we should make quick time. While crossing North Lakhimpur, there is no sign of a bus and this ride seems to be our only way! Now the question of an alternate ride doesn’t even cross anyone’s mind and we stop in Gogamukh for a short break.

I’m trying to look for a hotel on the many online platforms for a comfortable night stay in Dibrugarh but am unable to finalise anything. We take the opportunity of the break to take a short walk in Gogamukh. I meet some marwari businessmen in the sizeable market there; it seems the marwaris from Rajasthan are everywhere across India for business! Once we are back in the car; I ask Rolan to book us in a reasonably priced hotel and he recommends one Raj International in Marwari Patty in Dibrugarh. We are dropped right in front of the hotel at 9 pm and we can’t thank Ronal and his friends enough for the help.

We feel like kings at Raj International; nice hotel & very comfortable separate rooms. The rooms are air-conditioned and we quickly order dinner and I take a relaxed shower in the meanwhile. I ask the waiter to order food for me and choose the dishes as whatever he would like and atta chapatis. I am very tired and sleepy and polish off 4-5 rotis with the freshly made delicious mixed vegetable curry.

(I recently sent small gifts to Manash & Ronal from my craft platform ‘Indilocal’ & they were well received in Dibrugarh!)

We are so exhausted that no-one bothers to check about the status of food for the other room and we end up eating separately. I thank the waiter, close the door and sleep – like only a tired body can after so many hours of uncomfortable travel! I wake up from my sound slumber directly at 8 am next morning and feel fresh and relaxed on a proper bed. After all, we were in a campsite in Ziro and the mattress felt so much better than the sleeping bag!

My co-travellers have woken up as well and we laugh over the discomfort of the previous day. We ask for breakfast in the form of aloo sabji + puri and masala chai with lots of ginger. After all it is a hotel owned by a marwari and thats why the food and chai is on point. The flight at Dibrugarh airport arrives at 1 pm and our target was to reach close to the Nagaland border and stay for the night in Sonari town.

After a hearty breakfast, I go down to the hotel reception to enquire about autos / cab to the airport and then the subsequent mode of transport to depart for Sonari, that was the last sizeable town before entering Mon district in Nagaland where Longwa was located. I was also a bit concerned about the ILP for Nagaland – there was no physical office for us to go and get the ILP (Inner-Line Permit) issued. The online permit was just for namesake and wasn’t really something that worked in real life. I was told that there is a Nagaland Government office in Dibrugarh that issues ILP but that information turned out to be false and we decided to just enter Nagaland and see how it goes with the ILP.

At the hotel reception, a Maruti Alto taxi driver was standing and asked for INR 500 for pick/drop from the airport. I asked him for drop to Sonari and he quoted INR 3000 for the same. I check the distance to the airport from Raj Palace is 16 kms and from the airport to Sonari is 75 kms and offer him INR 2100. He declines my offer and says its not profitable at all. He takes down my phone number and informs he that he will call if he changes his mind. I tell him that I’m going to the bus stand to check about a bus to Sonari and also for an auto or other mode of transport to go to the airport.

The bus stand is a 6-7 minutes walk away from where I am and I find that there are buses to Sivasagar every 10 minutes. We ‘d have to switch buses for Sonari from Sivasagar and the frequency of the Sonari bound buses kept decreasing in the latter part of the day. Some locals informed me that it would take roughly 2 hours from Dibrugarh to Sivasagar and then another 2-2.5 hours from Sivasagar to Sonari if we were able to find a bus. The fare for the buses was estimated at INR 180 per person; i.e 720 for 4 of us. Further, the auto guys asked for INR 350-400 for a pickup/drop from the airport. I estimated the total to come to about 1200 INR and involved a lot of hassle + uncertainty about the bus timing.

I made up my mind to call the taxi guy and fix the price with him. The taxi should take maximum 3 hours for reaching Sonari and it was better to arrive in that unknown place before dark so that we were better placed to find a hotel to stay and check about the shared taxi to Mon.

I walked back to Raj Palace and had a quick shower. Luckily, before I could call the taxi guy – he only called me and that ensured that the price was fixed at INR 2100 for pick-up from the airport and drop to Sonari town. We checked out from the hotel and were picked up by the cab guy at 1230 pm; he had a drop to the airport and that guy was sitting in the front. The flight was on time and I was glad that the taxi guy was making extra money.

We leave for Sonari directly from the airport and see buses marked for Tinsukia, Jagun on the airport road that led to Namdapha National Park. The journey is very smooth and after an hour or so, we begin our search for a nice rustic bamboo dhaba. We’ve got home-made food packed from Delhi and luckily we spot an empty dhaba with chairs and a glorious view of the green grasslands. We give the food to the driver as well and he is pleased with our carefree behaviour. I thank him for being kind! We are overjoyed with the home-cooked simple food and realise that however exotic travel in the northeast is, we still can miss home food.

The dhaba owner comes and gives us a bottle of chilled beer. It is a priceless experience. We resume our drive to Sonari; the scenery is stunning with green grasslands and sunset colours at 430 pm. I try checking some homestays just before reaching Sonari town but it is more practical to stay on the road leading to Mon in Nagaland. We are dropped bang in the centre of Sonari Market; the taxi guy tells us that he has to rush back to Dibrugarh. Sonari market has an eerie feel omnipresent in border towns; there are policemen roaming on the road.

The market is sizeable and all the products are available in Sonari; vegetables and greens are available in plenty. It seems like most of the locals from Mon district in Nagaland come to Sonari to shop for all essential commodities. I ask around for a nice and respectable hotel in Sonari, preferably on the road to Mon so that there is no trouble with the early morning shared taxi. We walk on the road to Mon and there is water filled in potholes in the dirty town of Sonari. We find one hotel and there’s a huge room for 4 of us and it also has an air conditioner. This is the advantage of reaching a place in daylight; the same hotel would have costed us a lot more if it was dark.

We figure its easier and more entertaining with all 4 of us in one room and settle for it for INR 1500. The entire building is very damp with the constant rain and we keep the room open to air it out. There are sufficient charging points and I am told that the Mon shared taxi booking counter is nearby. We step out just as its about to get dark; with the aim of finding some light dinner and also to check if there’s a Nagaland ILP office in Sonari town.

There are battery rickshaws in Sonari that charge us 10 INR per person and drop us in the main market. We come across a nice looking hotel in the market – since it is already night and the rooms are available we are quoted a final price of INR 1100 per double room for the supremely comfortable business class rooms. We are a bit disappointed to not check this place but anyway since the pre-requisite of staying on the road to Mon were clear, can’t do much about it.

We ask for a chowmein and are delighted with the preparation; the prices are very reasonable as well. After finishing dinner, we walk back to the hotel and notice the signboard with funny rules! The shared sumo taxi stand is quite close to where we are staying and the guy there informs us that a sumo for Mon will ply at about 6 am. We will have to take another shared sumo from Mon to Longwa. We try to book the front 2 and back 2 seats but there’s just a tree and a stool_chair which is the booking office and it hardly inspires any confidence. He just tells us to come early in the morning.

The distance from Sonari to Mon is some 50 kms but the price of the shared sumo is an astronomical INR 250/300 per seat! ‘Welcome to travel in the northeast’, I say to my travel companions. High transportation costs are one of the biggest reasons that the northeastern states have not been explored well by travellers. I take down his phone number and tell him that we will be there next morning.

We go back to the hotel and relax; there are funny conversations about how well the day has gone! Thankfully, Sonari has excellent mobile internet connectivity and that means we are all on our phones. The issue of ILP for entering Nagaland has still not been sorted out and even though it appears that we are already on a never-ending journey; the truth remains that we are still in Assam. The difficult and troublesome part of the journey is yet to begin.

Since I don’t want this to become an unbearably long post, I shall be continuing the narrative of the journey in a separate post.

Imagine our fright to go to the sumo stand early in the morning and be told that the shared sumo to Mon has already left! Would we be allowed inside Mon district, Nagaland without an Inner Line Permit? As we are nearing the border in Nagaland, there are locals in Assam who ask us to stop and eat while we can. They say,’There is no food in Nagaland’; as a reference to the pre-dominantly non-vegetarian culture that is commonly thought of by the outsiders.

It will be fun to write the next chapter of this …

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We reach Dimapur at a very early hour in the morning, even before the clock strikes 6. Just as we are exiting the railway station, we see lots of shared taxis to Kohima are available but we have to first go to DC office in Dimapur to get the ILP (Inner Line Permit). Even though we are travelling in Nagaland during the Hornbill Festival time when the rules are said to be usually relaxed, we don’t want to take any chances.

Since the DC office is likely to be closed at 730 am, we first go to see the Kachari ruins in Dimapur. The auto guys quote astronomical prices, and it is very funny indeed! The auto guys in Dimapur quote a minimum of 100 Rs. per kilometre and make a killing! Most are migrants from UP and Bihar.

We end up having breakfast somewhere in Dimapur market, at a small eatery. The food is tasty and freshly made, and we are relieved to eat mainland India food like poori sabji. It might perhaps be our only proper meal before we enter ‘real’ Nagaland – Kohima onwards.

Dimapur is full of Marwaris. It is perhaps the most cosmopolitan town in Nagaland and where usual Indian food is readily available. There are signboards for Zutho – Rice beer that is available everywhere in the market. We also come across a vegetable market in stalls and many sellers for Naga chilly.

Dimapur doesn’t feel like like a proper Nagaland town, it is a sort of a city and we spot many posters that are trying to get ILP (Inner-Line Permit) in Dimapur too. The weather is surprisingly quite hot for December and the dust levels in Dimapur are a different category altogether.

Kachari ruins are officially closed at the early hour in the morning, so we can only see them from outside. The guy who has the keys hasn’t come yet and even though we inquire from the nearby school/shop we are unable to find him. The official opening time is around 10 am so we give up the idea of seeing the Dimasa Kachari ruins and just go to the DC office to get the ILP done at the earliest.

We end up bargaining a bit with the auto guys and reach the DC office. After spending 2-3 hours at the permit office and getting awed by the level of corruption in Nagaland, we are finally issued our ILP permits. The official cost of the ILP is around 100 Rupees, but we are asked to pay 400 Rupees per person. This is the usual price of corruption in Nagaland.

At the DC office, we meet some interesting people who have travelled far and wide and are in Nagaland for the ‘exotic’ Hornbill festival. We talk about the mired up bureaucracy in Nagaland and how this state could do so much better! After having been to other states in the northeast, I can safely say repeat that for the entire northeast region!

Thankfully we had carried all the documents and photographs required for getting the ILP issued. The ILP only mentions 3 districts and we got the document in our hand and triumphantly walked out of the compound! It is around 1230 in the afternoon.

Dimapur to Kohima

We then rush to the shared taxi stand in Dimapur and get inside a van leaving for Kohima. The distance from Dimapur to Kohima is around 70 kms and the charges are fixed at 150 Rupees per seat. We get 3 middle seats. The ride is crammed for space but surely not the worst that I have experienced. We leave from Dimapur at around 1 pm. The road from Dimapur to Kohima is in horrible shape and surely rates among the worst roads in the entire Northeast.

The cab guy stops midway for lunch at a sort of a dhaba place. We are somehow able to eat because it is bearable food, and is vegetarian. The reasonably priced thali comes with rice and is a staple here as I notice everyone eating the same. I figure it is better to eat something than to stay hungry. After all, it is Nagaland and it makes sense to leave my picky behaviour at home!

We reach Kohima market at 330 pm and immediately try to find a cheap hotel or guest house to stay. Within 5-10 minutes, we understand that there is minimal chance of a cheap place to stay, especially since this is the time of the Hornbill Festival. Luckily on the road, we find a van to Pfutsero.

We had heard the name earlier and there are 4 of us headed to Pfutsero now. It is a fun 2 days in Pfutsero. We come back to Kohima via a shared cab in the morning from Pfutsero and ask the shared cab guy to drop us to the festival site near Viswema.

Now that we know a little bit about the layout of Kohima, and the fact that there are more possibilities of finding a reasonable homestay near the festival site itself. It also ensures that we are free from the famous traffic jams and dusty environs of Kohima. There are many signboards for camping sites near the Hornbill festival site that set up shop during the Hornbill Festival dates. The prices are quite expensive at around 1000 Rupees per person for a stay excluding meals.

I spot a signboard for a homestay near Kigwema, Vicha Paying Guest House. We understand that there are many homestays in the region and it makes sense to get out from the shared taxi. At Vicha Homestay, the host shows us a dormitory for 4 people, it is 400 Rs. per person including breakfast. There is a nice open space in the homestay. The common shower and toilet, have a geyser too.

He has rooms too on the upper floor and quotes 1500 per double room that look really comfortable and he offers the room to me for 1200 Rs. if we plan to stay for longer, but the room prices don’t include breakfast. The dorm room isn’t big but it has a reasonable space, is located on the ground floor and works for us. The beds are nice and comfortable and the linen and blankets are clean. I really like it since it is a family run homestay sort of a place, and the kitchen is run by the ladies of the household!

The homestay is located at a convenient walking distance from Kisama – Hornbill Festival Site. Around 1.5 kms. It always made for a nice walk when we used to return half drunk from the festival site.

Kohima to Kisama Hornbill Festival Site – A local bus plies and charges 10 Rupees and even the regular shared cabs charge 30 odd Rupees.

Kigwema is a big village and also has a church and marketing shed where vegetables are sold, there are shops on the road and a few restaurants too. The best bet for eating simple food remains the homestay where you are staying though.

Vicha Homestay, Kigwema – The dining room is a cosy & separate space with 4-5 tables and one has to tell in advance if lunch / dinner is required. We usually had breakfast at the homestay as it was included with our price and had lunch at the festival venue. For dinner it was a buffet setting with hot casseroles for rice, vegetables, dall, papad, salad and freshly made and tasty. It is priced at 150 Rs. per person and feels reasonable.

A water filter is installed inside the dining area itself and is really helpful since one can fill the water bottles at their own convenience. Bottled water everyday can become too expensive and anyway I hate the taste of packaged bottled water. I always carry my own bottle and am pleased to fill water from the water filter itself.

World War II Museum – Located in the same venue as the Hornbill Festival, the World War II Museum is a good place to know the history of World War II. Memorabilia is kept, alongwith stories and placards. It is a big museum with exhibits and can easily take over 1 hour to explore. 

Vegetable Market, Kohima – The vegetable market is in Kohima city and all kinds of exotic stuff is for sale here, in addition to the usual vegetables. Local ladies sell snails and weird stuff, ducks, fiery red chillies, greens, bamboo shoots, variety of mushrooms, tomarillos, exotic leaves. 

Shopping in Kohima – All the northeastern states are like the fashion capitals of India and Kohima is right at the forefront of it! Fashionable clothes at only 300 Rs. per item, really good stuff if you can see a sale signboard, otherwise for boutique and unique stuff the prices in Kohima can get quite expensive.

World War II Cemetery – The World War II cemetery is located at a fantastic location on a hillock overlooking Kohima city. It is peaceful and green and I highly recommend it when you are sick of the dust and traffic of Kohima. It is maintained by the CWGC (Commonwealth War Graves Commission) and pays homage to the soldiers who died in World War II.

Nagaland State Museum – Fabulous collection of Nagaland things from across the state. The museum showcases the artefacts of tribes and their daily life, weapons, tribal costumes, instruments and utensils. It is a must see when you are in Kohima. 

Street art of Kohima – Nearly every wall is painted in Kohima and the street art and graffiti is very well done with messages and social slogans.

Veg restaurant Kohima – Yaotsu Veggie Restaurant. Overlooking Kohima, it is a concrete establishment but perhaps the only pure vegetarian restaurant in entire Kohima. It lies on the main road on the way from Kohima to Kigwema. On offer are dosa, aloo paranthas, puri sabji, chai etc and served at very reasonable prices too. We eat lunch here and have snacks 1-2 times.

Hornbill Night Carnival – During Hornbill Festival; stalls, street food, parties, and concerts are held here from 7 pm. The Hornbill Night Carnival is from Y junction to Razhu Point, it is a crazy atmosphere and I recommend going once.

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My supposed assignment with a tea estate has been called off and therefore, I have a week to go wherever I want!

Most of the members of the group that travelled around Sikkim with Our Guest Travels have their trains/flights from New Jalpaiguri / Bagdogra. The cars depart from Lingtam in the order of their train/flight departure timings. I leave in the last vehicle since my flight is booked for 1 week later.

I have given the 4 bottles of homemade wine (procured from Dzongu) to the driver Vijay asking him to keep the bag with one of his trustworthy contacts near the airport in Bagdogra. I told him I can pick them up when I get back to Bagdogra to catch my return flight. It is a well thought out decision and leaves me lighter by about 3 kilos for the rest of my backpacking sojourns.

Once we start descending from Lingtam to the main road, the air conditioner in the car has to be turned on to combat the pollution and traffic on the road. We have our brunch at Singtam at one Marwari restaurant. We feast on the usual comforts of chole bhature, aloo paranthas and have other refreshments and say our goodbyes to the group.

I spot a few shared taxis to Kalimpong in Singtam but the Our Guest team with me say that they will drop me at a diversion of Melli that is much closer to Kalimpong. Just after crossing Singtam, the route to Bagdogra/Gangtok bifurcates. We continue till Melli from where Kalimpong is only 12 kms away. I say my goodbyes to everyone and get down at the diversion in Melli.

It is super hot as the sun is beating down on the road, there is no shade at the diversion point. It is around 1 pm and there is no sign of shared taxis to Kalimpong! I can see the Melli check-post from where I am and share my meagre sitting space with a hawker selling freshly cut pineapple and watermelon.

A wandering snack seller also arrives looking at me with hope but I am too pre-occupied with searching for any vehicle heading to Kalimpong to bother!

An empty Maruti Van arrives and halts at the cut. The driver asks for 50 Rupees per seat. I think it is way too expensive for a shared taxi for only 12 kms but decide to wait for other passengers to fill up in the Van. I keep my backpack on the pavement itself and look around to see if I can try hitching a ride with any other vehicle heading to Kalimpong. There’s a ‘Welcome to Kalimpong’ gate just a few paces on the road and that makes me feel better in the intense heat.

The Van is unable to gather the required number of passengers and decides to leave! A sumo comes and has only 1 vacant seat. I quickly sit in the empty seat and the driver hauls my backpack on top of the sumo. We start ascending on the steep and winding road to Kalimpong.

I notice that the road to Kalimpong is a bit different (similar to the Hill Cart road of Darjeeling originally built as a mule track). I assume the reason for the same is to provide traction to the tyres of the vehicles on the road.

I am pleased when a cool breeze greets me on turns on the winding ascent to Kalimpong. We cross a few old looking churches on the way; the area names are denoted by 10th mile, 8th mile. The air is ripe with the lush greenery of the monsoon and the hillsides are dotted with a few nurseries too. Kalimpong and the nearby regions are known for flowers and the greenery.

The shared taxi is nearing Kalimpong and I notice that it feels quite hot and humid when the sun is directly upon us; and nice and cool when we are in the shade. My iPhone battery is almost dead and I’m unsure whether the power bank holds any charge at all! We roll into Kalimpong and I am not certain where I want to get down.

Anyhow, the shared taxi drops me at the main chowk of Kalimpong that is also the last stop where everyone else gets down too. I have no idea where and for how many days I will stay in Kalimpong. In my mind (courtesy of Anita Desai’s – The Inheritance of Loss) I had always thought of Kalimpong as a small town. The market looks sizeable though and is teeming with people, with roads leading in all four directions making me even more confused!

Luckily, my power bank is charged and I begin looking for secluded homestays in Kalimpong. I can spot sad looking hotels and cheap guest houses in the main market. Online travel portals come to the rescue and I am able to find 2-3 affordable homestays that I like. I’ve read much about Kalimpong and want to spend 3-4 days here and want to find a nice, open, airy and homely place to stay.

Booking shows 400-500 Rupees for a single room at a local’s home near McFarlane Church and the location seems to be quite nice too. The homestay is around 1.5 kms away from where I am right now. I start walking in the direction of McFarlane Church with my reasonably heavy backpack! It is very humid and I am already sweating in the short distance that I’ve ascended.

I can spot the beautiful McFarlane Church from afar and decide to keep my bag down for a bit, drink water and gather my breath. I have understood that getting to the homestay is going to be quite a challenge as the entire path is a steep ascent. There are shared taxis galore in Kalimpong but I am unaware of the exact location of the homestay and decide to keep it simple and walk.

I cross a few schools (Convent schools) on the way, bustling with students during the lunch break. They all seem to be old establishments and are housed in pretty buildings. I also spot a plush homestay with oodles of empty space near one of the schools but am certain that it will be quite expensive and don’t even bother to find out. I keep asking whoever I meet for directions and continue walking and reach the mentioned landmark of the homestay after around 40 minutes.

The confusion begins after I reach the landmark! I am unable to find the exact place and call the lady of the homestay for directions. She explains the directions and I ask a few schoolboys to guide me. I eat a cream roll with the kids outside the school, it turns out to be okay-ish but does the job of making me feel like I’ve truly arrived in Kalimpong.

All said and done, I am still unable to reach the homestay after the best part of an hour. It feels like I’m going around in circles and the backpack feels heavier by every passing minute.

Finally, the lady of the homestay comes to the rescue when she realises that I am lost and am totally unaware of my location. Funnily enough, it turns out I was only a 2 minute walk away from the homestay. I am relieved to step inside the house and sit on a chair, soaked in sweat.

There is a small porch outside the home, surrounded with beautiful flowers. The house is fairly simple and I am pleased to see the room offered to me. It has a table and a chair, a set of windows on the side and a bed on the other side. From the window I can see misty clouds that remind me of my first tryst with Kalimpong – Anita Desai’s ‘The Inheritance of Loss’.

I lie down and relax for a bit. Even though I am hungry, I decide to first take a bath, freshen up and only then head out. I am anyway too tired with the never ending walk to find the homestay! At the home, a lady and her boyfriend live alongwith the lady’s mom. The guy and the lady are helpful & knowledgeable and share recommendations for walks in Kalimpong.

Before leaving from the homestay, I ask Binita (the lady) if it is possible for me to have dinner at home? They ask me what do I want to eat and I emphatically reply that I would love to eat whatever they make for themselves. I just ask for vegetarian food and tell them I would honestly prefer the local cuisine.

I step out of home with a small checklist of places to explore in Kalimpong. There are many churches to see in Kalimpong, many Tibetan monasteries, viewpoints, markets etc. For a small town, Kalimpong has a lot of history attached as it was an important trading centre before the border to Tibet was sealed.

The sights in Kalimpong are spread over a large geographical area and it is a blessing to realise that shared taxis (Maruti Van’s) ply on almost all the routes. I take a walking shortcut to reach the main market in Kalimpong and get myself oriented with the town. It is already around 3 pm and I rush to the conveniently located 3C Bakery.

Shared Taxis in Kalimpong

All the shared taxis in Kalimpong leave from close to the market area & there are separate queues for different regions. The prices kept are quite high if you consider the per kilometre costs. The shared Vans fill 6-8 people for every trip and the fare per person is anywhere from 10 Rupees to 30 Rupees.

It is easy to ask the local taxi guys about your destination and they direct you to the particular taxi lane and you can just hop in! These shared taxis start plying from early in the morning and run till late in the night.

3C Bakery – Surely the most popular bakery in Kalimpong, it is prominently located in the main market. On display are super yummy looking cakes, bakes and puffs. It is run by ladies and they confirm that everything at 3C is freshly made. The prices are very reasonable and I have my fill of lunch by eating 2 pastries and 2 puffs!

I do not have any particular plan in mind and just roam around the market. There are many old shops to be seen, and the ones with unique Kalimpong paintings pique my curiosity. The markets in Kalimpong all seem to be connected and even the parallel streets can be accessed via steep stairs that connect the streets.

On the R C Mintri Street, I am surprised to come across Marwari surnames written on buildings. A chance conversation with a local reveals that almost all the businesses in Kalimpong are owned by people from Haryana & Rajasthan, and a few businesses are also run by Biharis and Bengalis.

Kalimpong is a big market to shop for locals in 50 odd kilometre area and the lucrative prospect of having a sizeable customer base meant people from across India migrated to Kalimpong for business.

Kalimpong is a hub for the Tibetans, hill people from the nearby areas, and other tribal communities living in this region of West Bengal. It has a very cosmopolitan feel, especially on the weekly haat market day! Historically, Kalimpong lie on the old trade route that passed via Jelep La to Tibet.

In the past, Kalimpong was also notorious at one point of time as an intelligence hub for India/Nepal and the Britishers. Even the RAW headquarters (Research & Analysis Wing) was headquartered in Kalimpong. Kalimpong has also served as the hub for the Gorkhaland movement.

I am pleased to wander around the streets of Kalimpong and get a basic idea of how to go about exploring the sights the next day. I come across 1-2 Churches, kids playing cricket with ample greenery around. I remember that the impressive looking McFarlane Church was on my way to the homestay and decide to see it. It is around 5 pm and I am pleased with how the day has panned out.

McFarlane Church has an imposing structure and a signboard outside the building informs me that the church was originally built in 1904 by Robert McFarlane and was damaged in an earthquake. The towers of the church that were damaged in the earthquake are lying in the open grounds outside the Church doors.

There is a young guy at the Church who opens the Church doors for me. It is beautiful from the inside too. I sit on the outside bench admiring the beauty. It is nice and peaceful and I spend some time gazing at the sky. After an hour or so when it is about to get dark at 6 pm, I start the long walk to my homestay. I reach at about 7 pm and am served an early dinner at 730 pm.

The homestay family is of Nepali descent and dinner comprises of unique dishes and is very tasty. Fresh cucumber, rice, dall, local leaves like spinach type vegetable and a variety of home made pickles. I sit with the family and mom chats with me while I enjoy every bite of the delicacies.

She gives me a cup of black tea after the meal, it is a tasty brew and seems to aid in quick digestion. I thank her for the meal and tell her that the food is better than any restaurant in Kalimpong could serve. She is very happy to hear that!

I am exhausted and go straight to my room. I lie down on the bed and the atmosphere feels a little humid and stuffy. I open one of the windows and feel nice that a gentle breeze is blowing. The bed is super comfortable with a soft blanket and I sleep like a baby at around 930 pm.

I wake up really early next morning, at around 630 am. The weather is totally foggy and misty as I begin to walk. I’m in Kalimpong market and catch a shared van to Durpin Dara. Durpin Dara is one of the oldest and biggest monasteries in and around Kalimpong.

Durpin Dara is located approximately 4 kilometres from the main market and the shared taxi drops me near the army area from where the monastery is only a short walk away.

Durpin Dara Monastery / Zang Dhok Palri Monastery

Hogmin Ngayab Zangdok Palri Phodang Tsenpo is the name of the monastery and it is affiliated to the Nyingma School of Buddhism. I’m standing outside the imposing and grand entrance of the monastery complex at around 830 am.

It is a fabulous start to the day while I gaze at the brightly coloured doors and exteriors. There are a number of chortens in the open space and elderly pilgrims are circumambulating around them with rosaries in their fingers.

I walk around and love exploring the monastery. It is a little cold today since the sun has totally been enveloped by clouds. I come across a small stall outside the monastery on my way back and have a cup of black tea with some biscuits.

Morgan House in Kalimpong

Morgan House in Kalimpong is run by the tourism department (West Bengal Tourism Development Corporation Limited) and makes for a charming accommodation option. It is an old colonial building from British times and was built by George Morgan in the year 1930.

In the green exteriors of Morgan House, there is an incredible array of flowers growing in almost every colour! The gorgeous scene is even more amplified due to the cloudy weather. The entire building is covered with greenery. Two stone chimneys are protruding on the top of Morgan House, in classic English Cottage style.

I am able to see a few parts of the interiors but the staff isn’t so helpful and doesn’t show me the rooms even if they have no guests right now. The rooms are priced reasonably at around 2000-2500 Rupees per night. Morgan House is truly a place steeped in nature; and the setting in the gardens in immaculate. If you don’t care about the service, I would highly recommend Morgan House to nature and heritage lovers.

All the walking around has made me very hungry. It is around 1130 am and I am in no mood to go back to Kalimpong market just for the food. I walk out of a side gate from Morgan House and walk on the main lane in the hope of finding an eatery. It is an army area and my joy knows no bounds when I luckily come across a South Indian Army Canteen, overlooking a golf course!

The eatery has an enviable alfresco setting (open air) and is open to visitors. Sunshine is making its way through the fog and the lush greenery of the golf course is a view to savour as I ask for a coffee first.

The menu has dosa and uthappam apart from idlis and is being made by Army Men from Karnataka/Tamil Nadu (can’t remember). I realise that I should make full use of this godsent opportunity and have a dosa first and then the uthappam. The dosa, uthappam, chutney and sambhar are authentic and delicious. The bill is a measly 140 odd Rupees as I ask for another coffee.

I thank the army guys at the canteen and take my leave after a final look at the golf course! It is a lovely area to walk around and I continue walking back to where I came from, looking for a ride back to Kalimpong.

Tall pine trees line both sides of the road and the thin veil of mist results in a fine drizzle. I instantly try looking for a tea stall that are ubiquitous in this part of the world. A steaming cup of black tea completes a fabulous morning.

I get back to the main road and get a shared Van ride back to Kalimpong. The Van guy informs me I would have got a ride at the turn where I was dropped in the Army area as the taxi routes are defined. I keep this piece of information in mind for other parts of Kalimpong.

It is around 12 noon and since I’ve eaten well, I decide to continue my explorations and catch a shared taxi to Dr. Graham’s Homes. The same shared taxi also goes to Deolo area. I am accompanied by school kids and fashionably dressed women in the shared Van. The driver asks me to get down at one turn and shows me a walking path from where I will reach Dr. Graham’s Homes.

I thank him and spot a local close to the walking trail and ask him about the path in detail. All I can see ahead is the trail becoming narrower and going through towering trees. I like the sight of it but want to reconfirm that it indeed leads to Dr. Graham’s Homes! A few school kids join me and they scamper off to leave me in solitude.

I come across a few old structures on the walking trail; it is nice and quiet and is a welcome silent walk in the jungle for me.

The fog and mist is back in the dense jungle that I am in and when I come across a faintly visible tower of a Church, I shake my head in surprise! At first, it appears eerie to see this imposing Church tower which feels dilapidated and not in use. Thats one good thing about not researching before travelling!

Katherine Graham Memorial Church

The Katherine Graham Memorial Church appeared out of the blue and in the misty surroundings felt unreal! It is a Scottish style chapel built in 1925 in memory of Dr. Graham’s wife, Katherine.

A few kids walking around make the proceedings less eerie and I walk to see that the Church is closed. Colourful flowers grow in the vicinity of the Katherine Graham Memorial Church and provide a wonderful frame.

I wait for a while to see if the mist might part to make it a memorable frame and instead of clearing, the mist comes back and the fog obscures the church in no time. It makes the greenery look even more denser. I take this as a cue to leave from there and continue to Dr. Graham’s homes since it is already past 3 pm.

I come across a forlorn looking tree with a bell and pretty flowers. Dr. Graham’s Homes is located only a short walk away and I come across a cluster of old buildings. It is a school founded by missionaries and was built in the year 1900.

The buildings look wonderful and I have a glimpse of the British history of Kalimpong. The fog finally clears and a large streak of sunlight peers through the tall trees and falls on the road. I click a memorable frame of school children walking by with the sunlight filtering from the trees.

After exploring the buildings of Dr. Graham’s Homes from outside, I am lucky to get a ride on a two wheeler. The shared taxi stop is a bit far away from here and I am pleased to cover some distance quickly. I get down when I see a wall with pretty flowers; adjacent to an old cemetery. I spend some time there and come walking to the main road from where a shared taxi to Kalimpong comes in no time.

My wanderings for the day are still not finished and I instinctively get down at the Tibetan Monastery area near Bhutia Busty. I am at a distance of 2-3 kms from Kalimpong and the Gaden Tharpa Choling Monastery is located on an uphill climb that begins from Sakya Monastery.

I realise I have had only one meal since morning and take a moment to thank the army canteen (in my mind) once again for a heavy brunch!

Just before reaching the Gaden Tharpa Choling Monastery, I come across a very pretty door – with Tom & Jerry on the side. The monastery itself is a huge and imposing building and the interiors are also quite pretty. It is about 430 pm and since I haven’t really gone around Kalimpong market, I decide to start my walk back. It has already been a very long day and I’m thinking of maybe heading to Kurseong or Darjeeling next.

Kalimpong Market is colourful and full of delightful stuff. There are Tibetan shops selling handicrafts, Thangkas, incense sticks, prayer flags, tsampa(barley flour), metal crafts, prayer bowls, diya lighting lamps and lots of other things I’m putting pictures of!

I also spot a few craft shops with original hand painted thangkas. The designs look fantastic and as much as I think about buying stuff (even with no space in my backpack), I end up buying a few Kalimpong paintings.

They are painted on black cloth and look vibrant with very vivid expressions on the subjects. Some of them are portraits while most of the paintings have a classic Tibetan scenery with snow peaks and yaks; prayer ceremonies, ladies walking or working in the fields – all with a snow mountain background.

I eat sel roti (Nepali dish) served with mix pickle at one Renu Pradhan’s shop in the main market for only 10 Rupees. It turns out to be so tasty that I decide to eat 2 more helpings of the sel roti with the pickle. I thank Renu Ji and over a conversation she tells me she’s proud to be of Nepali origin and asks me to check the shop’s variety of pickles!

I am on RC Mintri Street and the lane is full of pretty doors; I also come across a few Rajasthani merchants talking in marwari language. They are sitting and chatting outside their mansions on the road itself and one of them tells me he’s from Churu (Shekhawati) and invites me for chai. I thank them for their graciousness but take their leave since I have to walk around the other streets too.

I wander around and get to SDB Giri Road which has a number of new age cafés and youngsters can be seen occupying the seats. Kalimpong Bazaar seems to cater mostly for the locals who come from far and wide to both buy/sell. There are shops on the lower floor while the upper floor is used as a residence.

The houses have intricate exteriors and look pretty even though they are quite old. A few tailor shops are stitching bags with Tibetan flags and symbols. Some shops specialise in Thangkas, I have a look and most seem like machine made to me. One of the shops is named Lhasa Trading Centre and sells Tibetan clothes priced per metre, and utensils and religious offerings. Another shop is selling Tibetan jackets for women and dresses too in brocade style cloth.

Dusk is fast approaching and I can spot little eateries and bars tucked in corners selling the Sikkimise beer Hit. After it becomes dark, I spot Hong Kong Chinese Restaurant and China Garden Restaurant. I had asked my homestay owner Binita for a place to eat, and she had recommended China Garden. I am hungry and exhausted from the explorations of my nearly 12 hour day. I have a really early dinner of a curry dish which turns out to be quite average.

Kalimpong Cheese & Kalimpong Lollypop

I begin my walk back to the homestay and come across Lark’s Provision in Kalimpong which is the only place to buy authentic Kalimpong Cheese and lollypops. The cheese tastes like cheddar, and is especially good so I end up buying a kilo.

Lark’s Provisions is the only real place to buy fine quality Kalimpong cheese. There is another shop selling cheese in the same lane as Lark’s Provisions but the quality doesn’t taste the same. On my first time the cheese that I bought from Lark’s Provisions was top class and cost around 500 Rs. per kilo. The Swiss Missionaries have taught Kalimpong locals the art of cheese making and it has remained popular ever since and even now only a few locals are engaged in the same.

On the second time around though, the cheese had not aged well and tasted very different. The price had also increased to 600 Rs. per kilo and I am sad to write that almost half a kilo of the cheese slab had to be thrown away because the taste did not improve even after 2 months. Funnily enough the 250 grams of cheese that I bought for immediate consumption tasted well when put on the hup seng crackers.

I also come across an old looking bookstore Kashi Nath and Sons with an enviable collection of vintage books and old books about Kalimpong. It is already dark and I am pleased to get a ride in a shared van that spares me the trouble of the long uphill climb.

At the homestay, I sit and chat with Binita’s mom and she makes black tea for me. I tell her all about my explorations and she listens with rapt attention. I thank her for the wonderful stay and go to my room to sleep.

McFarlane Church

Next morning, I take the leave of the homestay family and walk to McFarlane Church. The caretaker is keen to show me around and takes me to the top after climbing the old wooden stairs. I can see all around Kalimpong from the top, the spires of the church are also visible. There’s a huge old bell with inscriptions from England.

I walk to the syndicate or shared taxi stand in Kalimpong Bazaar and get a seat for Darjeeling on the next shared Sumo that leaves from the main bazaar. I pay 180 Rupees for the front seat. The shared taxi from Kalimpong to Darjeeling halts at Lopchu which is well known for Lopchu tea estate.

Revisiting Kalimpong

On a second visit to Kalimpong one year later, I am accompanied with two friends and we have first explored a remote trek in Sikkim with Our Guest Travels and then relax in the utopia of Dzongu for 3 days. After that we take shared taxis and arrive in Kalimpong on a balmy afternoon.

After the initial confusion and trouble with a pre-booked hotel in Kalimpong, my friends take matters in their own hands and book a place called Misty View. It is perfectly located in the outskirts of Kalimpong near Bhutan House and is accessible by shared taxi.

We reach Misty View and are super happy with the rooms and cottages offered to us, it is run by youngsters hailing from Kolkata. The views from the rooms are surreal and we take the rooms that also come with a verandah and a gorgeous sit out.

After relaxing for an hour or so, I decide to head out to Kalimpong and get some cheese from Lark’s Provisions and pastries from 3C Bakery. 3C Bakery – muffins, breads, puffs, very reasonable prices 20-30-40 Rupees. It is a happy feeling for me to return to the streets of Kalimpong that I have loved exploring on previous visits and to be aware of the shared taxis so that I don’t always have to walk.

Shopping in Kalimpong

Maharaja Tea Store – It is located near the shared taxi stand locally known as Syndicate. Maharaja Tea Store stocks an enviable variety of teas and is run by a Rajasthani owner. They have Darjeeling Tea, black teas, green teas and a great mix of tea leaves used for milk tea. Upon asking, the owner recommends us a 500 Rupees per kilo mix of Orthodox Tea Leaves and CTC, that she uses herself. We buy a kilo each and the results at home are spectacular, it is a great mix and has a nice and unique natural flavour. It is well worth the high price because the quantity required is less than the usual tea leaves that we use.

Kalimpong Haat Bazaar

Kalimpong Weekly Market Haat Bazaar – Every week on Wednesday and Saturday, the streets of Kalimpong host a proper rural market with an authentic village feel. On offer is dried yak cheese of many varieties, fresh vegetables and fruits (many of which might appear exotic to someone from the plains of India). Variety of greens, squash called iskus, a tangy fruit by the name of kusum, and locally grown avocados too. Different kinds of bananas, fiddlehead fern or ningro, among many other things as well.

There is a separate side lane occupied by old ladies selling fresh bamboo shoots that look yellow in colour. Brown pears of very good quality are available, I buy some and can say they are tasty too. Harmless looking round Dalle Khursani chillies, they belie their looks and are very spicy.

There is a separate sub-market for pickles, fish, meat etc. There are shops selling yeast and one shop also sells containers used for drinking Tongba. The containers are in different sizes and are very artistic. Straws made from bamboo are also on sale for 15 Rupees each, the cheap looking straws come for as little as 5 Rupees.

The yeast shops are located close to the shops selling these Tongba Containers and bamboo straws. The yeast is used by the local women to make the delicious local liquor, Tongba (millet beer). The old woman tells me that her sister’s shop is located in Majnu ka Tila in Delhi and if I go there I should easily be able to locate her as she looks exactly like her! An old lady is selling Timbur – used as a herb for making alcohol and a different looking tomato, called tomarillo.

In the weekly market, we come across a momo seller that has a huge congregation of people clamouring to get the momos. The only variety he sells are veg steamed momos and even though they are making momos at a breakneck speed, there is a waiting time. The momos are sold out even before they are ready! I hear a few local ladies speaking in marwari and immediately ask them if they are from Rajasthan and settled in Kalimpong. They nod in affirmation and confirm that these are the best momos in Kalimpong, thats the clincher!

I am able to finally lay my hands on one plate that has 10 momos for only 20 Rupees. The momos are unbelievably delicious and the accompanying chutney is fiery and makes the momos taste even better. After finishing the plate, we realise our folly of ordering only one plate and ask for another plate of momos only to be told there is more waiting time. We have to let go of our desire and continue with our explorations of the Haat Bazaar or Haat market.

In Kalimpong Market, Renu Pradhan Pickles – A very well known pickle shop run by Renu Pradhan; the same pickle is also sold at much higher prices at Biswa Bangla Bagdogra Airport. We end up buying mix pickle and I also procure a small bottle of Dalle chillies pickle. The Dalle chillies pickle is especially expensive at some 600 Rupees per kilo. I instantly recollect that it is much more expensive than the usual varieties of pickles sold elsewhere.

Kalimpong market is closed on Sunday and very few shops are open.

One of the days it is excruciatingly hot in the day in Kalimpong, we sit at an eatery in the market and sip chilled beer. At dinner time, we eat at Hong Kong Restaurant, it is a small eatery with only 4 tables and the food is freshly made on order. We order a variety of recommended dishes that the owner tells us to order and everything turns out to be lip smacking tasty!

Shopping for Noodles made of rice, egg noodles, without egg noodles, there are numerous small scale industries for making them and they are available as far as Delhi. Fine quality and quite cheap. I buy noodles worth around 500 Rupees to carry back home.

Incense Sticks – Potala Incense, very good quality. Buy 10 packets for 100 Rupees. Prayer flags of different sizes and colours. Colourful bags at specialised bag shops with proper finishing, they are quoted at 500-700 Rupees. The ones that I like are all highly priced and nothing on offer is really cheap. I also spot a few bags that look similar to the Hemp bags from Nepal. The tailors are stitching small bags with Tibetan designs that are priced at only 20 Rupees while the mid size ones cost 40 Rupees. I think for a while of buying them for gifts but give up the idea and end up buying 1 each for home.

In Kalimpong market, I come across a shop that sells a variety of Kalimpong paintings, embroidered paintings, money holder sling bag, Lepcha jackets in different sizes, the cloth for Lepcha jackets (which is currently being used as a table cloth at home). Another shop is dedicated to Lepcha jackets and has multiple designs and varieties of the jackets. I couldn’t find a jacket that fit me perfectly and have to be content with not buying it. The shop owner was from Haryana and made me wear the Lepcha hat to click a photograph! I had seen the locals sporting the Lepcha jacket at a festival in Dzongu and thereby got interested in buying a jacket!

I am a little disappointed that most of the shops are closed because its Sunday but when I roam around the market, I realise that most commercial shops are closed but the ones that I am interested in are mostly open. A few of the artistic shops that I haven’t been able to visit are closed and I wonder if I will have to visit Kalimpong again!

Bhutan House

This time I am staying close to Bhutan House, it is the home of the Queen and King of Bhutan since historical times. The Indian Army can only be stationed outside the gates. Inside it is the Royal Bhutan Army that guards the Bhutan House. Many Bhutanese officials of high rank regularly visit and stay at Bhutan House. It is a beautiful old building set on a nice hillock with a birds’ eye view of the valley below.

Tibetan Language Preservation Committee takes initiatives for Tibetan Language Classes on Sunday.

One particular shop near the main market has a fascinating collection of Tibetan paintings, Thangkas, Khukris, sweaters, woollen garments, bags, paper lamps. If memory serves me right, it is an NGO / or works with an NGO. They work with artisans and even though the products are priced higher than other places, their collection is quite exquisite.

Tibetan Wooden Handicrafts – Great handmade stuff in wood. Little expensive though.

Since it is Sunday and I am roaming around the market, I hear a big roar every few minutes. Upon closer inspection, I understand that the football stadium is just on the opposite side of the market and that I must see a glimpse of the football match since I’m in Kalimpong! The sounds of the crowd cheering are thrilling! 30 Rupee ticket for the football match, full value for money if we consider the picturesque setting of the cloud covered mountains. Beautiful graffiti on the walls outside the stadium. Some are social messages of planting trees, not littering etc. I get stuck briefly in a traffic jam caused due to the football match. Among the crowd, there are youngsters, kids and middle aged people all watching and there is a sizeable section of ladies too cheering.

I am also aware that Bipul Chhetri hails from Kalimpong and that it is possible to meet him if I get lucky but I don’t even give it a try. I am a big fan of his songs and was glad to have attended the Orange Festival in Dambuk to mainly see his live performance.

Krishna Calico Shop – On one of my walks in Kalimpong Market, I go inside the Krishna Cali Shop. The antique looking signboard had been attracting me and the Haryana owner told me that Calico was one of India’s first textile mills and was based in Ahmedabad. I visited this shop on my first visit and the owner and his daughter recommended me a Bhutanese shawl. It was a beautiful design and the owner helped me choose one shawl. I ended up liking it so much that I have brought more Bhutanese shawls from him on my next visit.

Hup Seng Crackers – Excellent quality crackers made in Myanmar. It is widely available in Kalimpong and tastes good with a slice of cheese on the crackers!

Graffiti in Kalimpong is very nicely done and creative, I especially recommend the walk around the stadium to spot graffiti on the walls around there. If you walk the streets of Kalimpong, there are chances that you will come across a lot of innovative street art.

Churches of Kalimpong

There are many churches in Kalimpong located in nooks and crannies and if you have a longer stay in the town, it is possible to see some of them.

Kalimpong Art Café – On one of my walks in Kalimpong, I stumbled upon the Kalimpong Art Café that has a very cosy setting and a nice vibe. The outdoor seating has a foggy valley view visible and the indoors feel very warm with the cold winds blowing. The menu suggests prices are a little expensive and since I wasn’t hungry at all, I didn’t try the food. There is a small cloth boutique inside the café and the owner’s wife designs clothes in fine Dhaka cloth. The quality is exceptional and prices are high too.

I have roamed around the market more than a dozen times over my 2 visits. I see that the time is around 230 pm now. I decide to head to Deolo and catch a shared taxi. Deolo is on the way but I tell the Van guy to drop me to the last point where the shared taxi goes.

It is foggy and feels nice and cold even in the afternoon as this road is on an incline and is the Algarah-Reshi, Darap road that leads to the protected biosphere reserve in Lava, West Bengal.

Kids are roaming around on bikes and the shared taxi guy is surprised why would I want to be dropped at the last point when I don’t have a destination in mind! I tell him I’m keen on just wandering around. There are 2-3 roads bifurcating from here and two roads are ascending to some cosy looking but expensive homestays.

I am sure the homestays are amazing here since this area is located at a higher altitude than Kalimpong and is peaceful and looks much greener. I start walking back and wonder if I should head to Lava biosphere reserve and stay there for a few days. I try looking for homestays on the map in that region which is denoted by a huge tract of green on the map.

Buses go to some place called Algarah. I have already made a rough plan to go to Mirik the next day and think about keeping Lava region for another time.

Deolo hill is nice and scenic. There is a big statue of Padmasambhava in a small park and 2-3 restaurants on the opposite side. I decide to not eat anything and to directly have an early dinner. I enjoy taking a walk in the misty surroundings and come across a few families that are enjoying their day out. The fog lifts after a while and I miss the forest walk which was really dense and foggy.

Where to stay in Kalimpong?

There are a number of nicely located homestays in Kalimpong and most of them come in a reasonable price bracket of 1500 to 2000 Rupees.

Where to Eat in Kalimpong?

The street food and bakeries of Kalimpong are also very good. I recommend asking the locals for restaurants when you visit for the latest hit at that time.

Lepcha Museum

It is the only Lepcha Museum in India and was founded by Sonam Tshering Lepcha. The Lepcha Museum is located on the H L Dixit road in Kalimpong and is surrounded by wonderful views of the mountains. The museum is dedicated to the Lepcha community that presently resides in Kalimpong, Darjeeling, Sikkim, Nepal, and Bhutan. Among the handicrafts and items on display are manuscripts, articles of worship, original Lepcha musical instruments, and Lepcha handicrafts.

Sonam Tshering Lepcha was also given the prestigious Padmashree award in 2007 for his contribution to folk music.

Hill Top Tourist Lodge

Hill Top Tourist Lodge is an old British Bungalow and is currently run as a heritage hotel by the West Bengal Tourism Development Corporation (WBTDC). It is located on a hillock and is in the outskirts of Kalimpong and makes for a wonderful place to stay with charming interiors and gorgeously green gardens.

Pine View Cactus Nursery

One fine day, I decided to ask the locals for the recommended list of sights in Kalimpong and Pine View Nursery came on top of the list. This nursery is quite famous for its collection of over 1200 varieties of cactus. The cacti have been sourced from around the world and it has taken around forty years. There is a reasonable entry fee and the nursery has been maintained well.

Crookety House

Honestly, I had not even heard of Crookety House when I was in Kalimpong but over chance conversations with the locals they told me about this place. Crookety House is a beautiful colonial building built by the English traders sometime in 18-19th Century. In the present time, Crookety House has been converted into a Museum. It is managed by Italians, who have established the Himalayan Institute of Ethics and Good Living and work for Agni Yoga foundation.

Street Art in Kalimpong

Best to walk around the stadium where walls have been painted. Graffiti can be spotted on the walls in Kalimpong almost everywhere.

My backpack is full of stuff brought in the market. Bye Kalimpong. Will return again!

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Also check : Tribes of Nagaland – Hornbill Festival

Jita had attempted to go to Dzuköu Valley on an earlier visit and had the basic information. There are 2 possible entry points for the trek to Dzuköu Valley – Viswema and Jakhama. Jita had already narrated his ordeal of spending a difficult night at the entrance of Dzuköu after he had lost his way! It made me aware that we just couldn’t wake up one day and go hiking to Dzuköu Valley, and that we might require help. 

At Hornbill Festival, I bumped into my friend from Kolkata who had driven with some of his other friends (I had met him in Nongriat and Auroville earlier). They had a car and were also planning to trek to Dzuköu valley and had already decided on the services of a guide. It made the task very easy for us and we told them to just pick us up from our homestay on the morning that they were going! 

So, it was decided to make Dzuköu Valley a day hike – to leave from Viswema in the morning, park the car at the Dzuköu Valley entrance, trek to Dzuköu Valley, come back by evening, and drive back to our respective homestays. My friends called me in the evening and confirmed that we would be leaving next morning at 7 am! 

My friends were at our homestay by 730 and we left on time, already having had our breakfast that was included with the stay and because we had requested for it earlier. We picked up the guide from somewhere along the way and he took us via the Viswema route. The guide told us that while the Jakhama trekking route was shorter, it was steeper, more difficult and confusing and thats why everyone preferred going by Viswema route. 

We parked the SUV at the parking place and Jita showed us the tin shed where he had spend the night! It was around 9 am when we started our trek. The weather was cloudy and the sun was hiding and nowhere to be seen. We started our hike through a dense jungle where the first signboard ‘Dzuköu Valley’ was marked. The trail started with stone steps and was steady and steep and we ascended non-stop through the forest. 

Even though Dzuköu Valley is a very popular trek, the path wasn’t well marked at all, and after only 20 odd minutes we were confused about the right trail when the light had gotten worse in the thick foliage of the jungle. It was foggy and misty and there seemed to be trails leading in multiple directions; thank God we had the guide with us or it could well have been a case of taking a punt about the right path! 

Our guide was a young chap from Kohima, around 25 years old and had been to Dzuköu Valley numerous times. He charged around 1500 Rupees for the entire day and had pre-agreed the price with my friends. 

The scenery was stunning and the aroma of the jungle was pleasing, it was stunningly green for the month of December and there was moss on the stones. There were some random markings on stones (M.900) but it was unclear if we have covered 900 metre distance or if 900 metre distance is left. It is an eerie feel in the jungle with the sounds of birds and insects, dense mist and no sunlight. There seems to be hardly any daylight and proceedings are a bit stalled with no breeze blowing. 

After around an hour or so, we reach a point where the jungle opens up and we come across the first sight of branchless roots, wavy valleys and unique trees that are a hallmark of Dzuköu Valley. There are undulating tiny outcrops in the mountains with waterfalls amidst lush greenery and mist emanating from the greenery. The sky is covered in clouds and there is an occasional pitter-patter of raindrops. 

The trail is to our right and is muddy after the recent rain. To our left are the stunning views of the start of Dzuköu Valley. After a while the branchless trees disappear and reveal streams flowing through the valleys when the light improves. It is an incredibly stunning landscape and this is just on the way when we haven’t reached Dzuköu Valley yet. 

At around 1045 am, we come across a small tent and a sitting space that is covered. Rain is in the air and we decide to light the wood that is kept there and enjoy the silence and breeze. The trail stretches ahead in the distance and we can see the path now. After some time we resume our hike and walk through spectacular scenery, through small shrubs of green growth. Dzuköu Valley appears more and more prominent as we keep going. 

It continues drizzling steadily slowing down our progress and just before noon, we come across a signboard ‘Alternate Trek Route’. The guide explains that there are other trekking routes to Dzuköu Valley from Manipur as well as it is very close to Manipur State Border as well. We can spot the Rest House of Dzuköu Valley that is located on a clifftop. It is the only staying option in the entire valley and is quite prominent, even from afar. 

The Rest House is spread over a sizeable area too – 2-3 buildings with one building located at a 5 minute walk away from the others. The secluded building looks like a nice, cosy cottage! We have a spring in our step now and almost skip, jump and run to reach the rest house at 1210 pm. So it has taken us roughly 3 hours to reach Dzuköu Valley even with a relaxed pace and a stop in between. 

Our jackets are drenched in the rain that has been constant since 1030 am, I am feeling a bit cold since my jacket is flimsy and is not rain proof meaning a lot of water has seeped inside! We are on a vantage point and a stiff wind blows. Thankfully, I have kept a rain-proof daypack for the camera, water bottle, snacks and chocolates for emergency. It is a surreal sight as we reach the rest house; we finally have a birds’ eye view of Dzuköu Valley. 

We are in an exhausted condition and are very hungry. Our guide takes the charge and orders food for all of us. The kitchen at the rest house is run by locals and they make everything fresh and charge INR 200 per person for food. The rest house guys inform us that many tourists are on their way and it is better that we get done with our lunch first so that we can explore the valley peacefully later. There is a bench in the open with a vantage view of Dzuköu Valley and everyone enjoys their time until the rain arrives. 

Once it starts raining, we gather in a shelter space with a log of wood burning. Someone rolls a joint and food also arrives in that time, we eat well. The log of wood provides the much needed warmth and we relish the food that comprises of rice, vegetable curry and dall. It is around 1-130 pm and a welcome respite when the rain stops. 

The Rest House is built from wood and stone in a pitiable condition, the windows seem to have been broken long ago. It is surrounded by an array of beautiful flowers though. There are various signboards on view with warnings to not pluck flowers, destruction of property and basic civic sense please. 

There is a huge dormitory at the Rest House for travellers and visitors to stay. Bedding is available – Mats at 100 INR per mat and 50 INR per blanket. It is a common space and is done up with graffiti and art! Looks like a very rustic space perfect for backpackers who are looking to chill with like minded company in a pristine location! We have only planned for a day trip and don’t have to take the decision of staying here, so I choose to ignore the dirty blankets and the unkempt space. 

The views from the porch of the rest house are spectacular to say the least. We are pleased when it finally stops raining. It is around 2 pm and some of us start descending on the trail to Dzuköu Valley. We are tired and ask the guide if it is actually possible for us to go to the bridge of Dzoköu Valley. He remarks that the bridge is far away and takes around 3 hours to go and come back to the rest house. He also says that is the main reason why most people stay for a night at the rest house so that they can explore Dzoköu Valley properly. 

That statement takes the wind off our sails and we decide to give up the idea of going to the bridge in Dzuköu Valley and instead choose to sit at the bench and savour the otherworldly views on offer. There are other benches too to the right and all of us enjoy our solitude for a good 30 minutes before we decide to head back. 

The rest house guys inform me that while it is possible for travellers to just hike up to Dzuköu Valley and stay at the rest house; sometimes the lack of space might mean there is no room if the space is not booked in advance. There is also the possibility that there is no staff at the rest house if it is off season. 

We are lucky when the clouds part after lunch and the sunshine lights up the incredible landscape of Dzuköu Valley. It looks like a crater, an unreal world with the numerous rocky outcrops in a dark shade of green, ‘a land of fairies’ as is called sometimes. Our guide seems to be happy to be chilling with the rest house guys and hardly seems keen on us actually exploring Dzuköu Valley. 

As we know, sunsets in the northeast happen pretty early and in December that would mean that it is close to dark by 4 pm. Our taking a chance would be stupid considering the last part of our return hike will be through the dense canopy of the jungle that had hardly any daylight even at 10 in the morning! Sanity prevails and as the clouds start sweeping in Dzuköu Valley again, we start on our return journey. 

I realise that it might be totally worthwhile to come back to Dzuköu Valley in July/August when it is blooming time for the famous Dzuköu Lily. This time when I come back, I would make sure of staying at least 1 night at the rest house so that I am able to explore the valley properly. From the rest house, it takes 1 hour to go to the bridge in Dzuköu Valley and 2 hours to come back. 

We enjoy our hike back and encounter many tourists on their way to the rest house. As I had thought, it is almost dark when we descend through the jungle. We are pleased to make it to the car parking spot at 4 pm. We drop the guide on the way and my friends proceed to drop us to the homestay. 

We celebrate our last evening together with a bottle of the precious Angami Sticky Rice Wine (600 INR per bottle!). 

If you are at the Hornbill Festival and reading this, please reach out to me. It would do a world of good if you could get 2 bottles for me (trust me it is one of the finest wines ever made!). 

Check : Cherry Blossoms in Nagaland, India

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When the Sikkim based, Our Guest Travels reached out for a trip in August 2018 – I was delighted in saying yes to a company run by Sikkimese locals who had their hearts in the right place. The highlight of the trip was Pang Lhabsol Festival in Gangtok; but if I think back now – it was the 3 days spent in Dzongu that are an everlasting memory.

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The below is an experience of spending 5-6 days in Dzongu spread over 2 visits.

Gangtok to Dzongu

Early relaxed morning in Gangtok. Thanks to Our Guest Travels, we had stayed at a traditional family homestay in Gangtok. It was a cozy wooden home and the hosts ensured we had an authentic Sikkimese experience. We had a nice and healthy breakfast, and then leave for Dzongu at around 9 am.

Dzongu is around 4 hours drive from Gangtok; and is located near Mangan. Mangan is popularly known as the ‘cardamom capital’ in this region and is the District Headquarters of North Sikkim. It is August and the monsoon season in Sikkim and the rainy conditions mean that we are in waterfall country on the route from Gangtok to Mangan. I roughly calculate that we notice a waterfall every 2-3 minutes on the road!

Waterfalls in North Sikkim

The landscape is incredibly green and a thin veil of mist accompanies the forests everywhere we go. We make a stop around an hour or so after leaving Gangtok near a wonderful waterfall. There are stairs leading to a nice platform to view the waterfall at close quarters, and a small snacks stall serving tea, refreshments and snacks. We continue ahead and after the rain subsides make a stop near Mangan where there are fabulous views of Teesta River from a viewpoint.

Our permits for North Sikkim are checked as we cross Mangan and take the topsy-turvy road to Dzongu. After a few kilometres there is another check post where our permits for entering Dzongu are checked.

Lepcha Tribe of Dzongu & Brief Introduction to Dzongu, Sikkim

Dzongu area is reserved for the Lepcha tribe (the original inhabitants of Sikkim.) The Queen of Sikkim kept it designated as a Protected Area for the indigenous people of Sikkim since the 1960s. Lepchas worship Mt. Kanchenjunga as their mother and Lepcha word literally means the children of snowy peak. As a rule, even Sikkimese can’t buy and sell land here and even require a permit to enter Dzongu.

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Khangchendzonga National Park is included in UNESCO World Heritage Site for Nature & Culture in 2016 and Dzongu is also included in it. Dzongu region is huge in size and yet is sparsely inhabited with a population of around 4000 Lepchas. Devastating earthquake in Dzongu in 2011. There was a massive landslide in Dzongu in 2016 when Dzongu was divided in 2 areas. The river Teesta changed it course and caused massive natural devastation in Dzongu.

The original name of Sikkim is ‘Mayal Lyang’ which translates into secret paradise in Lepcha language. According to the Lepchas, that paradise still exists at the base of the sacred mountain Mt. Kachenjunga (Kongchen Chu in Lepcha language).

Dzongu is divided in two regions – Lower Dzongu and Upper Dzongu. Most villages in both Lower and Upper Dzongu are connected by road. There used to be a wooden bridge that connected Lingthem & Tingvong villages of Upper Dzongu situated on 2 different mountains but that was washed away in the landslide and floods. A new iron bridge has been constructed but seems to be currently used as a walk-only bridge.

Also, Kim (co-owner of Munlom Nature Resort) is a prominent member of the committee opposing hydroelectric power projects on the Rongyang Chu river (A tributary of Teesta river) in Dzongu to avoid long term damage to the ecology of the protected region of the Lepchas of Dzongu. (Chu means river in the local language).

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Villages in Dzongu – Tingvong, Kusong, Sakyong-Pentong, Lingthem, Passingdong, Hee Gyathang, Gor village, Bay, Barfok village etc.

Hee Gyathang Village, Lower Dzongu – Reaching Munlom Nature Resort

We are heading to Hee Gyathang village in Dzongu where our destination Munlom Nature Resort is located and while the distance is only around 20 kms from Mangan, the time taken is almost an hour due to the narrow and bad condition of the road. Thanks to Our Guest Travels connections, our permits have been procured in advance and we are waved off at the checkpoints after our documents are checked.

There is an old world charm on the route to Dzongu, in terms of the lush green scenery and the old iron bridges. We also occasionally spot Lepchas chilling by the road; the locals generally seem very happy and perhaps the abundance of local alcohol might have something to do with it! At around 1:30 pm, we cross Hee Gyathang village to reach the parking space of Munlom Nature Resort where the innova won’t go any further.

Our pickup is in the form of a modified Mahindra 4*4 with special huge tyres. There is still a distance of 3.4 kms to be covered. As we start our next leg of journey in the 4*4 vehicle, it is understood that there is no road ahead and we are on an uneven jungle path! Numerous waterfalls are crossed; it feels like an ATV ride among boulders, trees, greenery, and is a full adventure!

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Just as we are about to reach Munlom Nature Resort deep into the jungles of Dzongu, we see some houses of Hee Gyathang village. We get down there to walk the rest of the distance and admire the greenery and flowers on the way! Small kids are standing outside their homes. The homes themselves are adorned with flowers of varied colours!

The homes are sizeable and sturdy and have quite a bit of empty area in the courtyard. The views of the green mountains on the other side are fabulous. We say our hellos to the kids, click pictures of flowers and walk to Munlom Nature Resort to a nice welcome through the bamboo gate.

Munlom Nature Resort – Dzongu

The Mahindra 4*4 has already reached, some of us opt to carry our backpacks ourselves to the respective rooms. There is a rustic flight of stairs to reach the resort in the wild greenery. The landscaping of the resort is especially beautiful and totally blends in with the natural environment of Dzongu. The stairs lead us to the open sitting area where right at arrival we felt we were truly in a nature resort!

There are tiger lilies growing in the wild on the wall with the open lawn in front of the reception area! The flora and fauna of Dzongu is very different and varied. I also spot marijuana growing in a secluded corner around the area. Welcome drink is herbal tea served to us on a wooden tray with traditional Lepcha designs. The cups are the classic Dragon design with a lid.

Different varieties of locally made fruit and herb wines – made from raspberry, timbur leaves, pineapple, rhododendron etc were kept in shapely bottles and looked pretty with their pleasing colours like yellow and red! The library area has an enviable collection of books on Sikkim and the Lepchas, and guests are encouraged to spend their time in the common spaces and ask more questions about Dzongu.

There is a sit-out with bamboo chairs and sofas, open on three sides for open air while the interior space is perfect for windy and rainy times. The whole space is cozy with pleasing wooden colours, hanging pots and plants and a wooden skirting that allows the breeze to blow freely even on muggy afternoons.

3 tables have been kept in the dining space and the kitchen is accessible by a door from the dining area. The windows are opened and the fresh air comes rushing in. Traditional souvenirs are also kept in the open area, huge fungus on branches (some of them over 100 years old), there are dao’s, wooden souvenirs.

We are ushered into our rooms by the smiling family-like-staff that mostly belongs to the nearby villages and are local Lepchas.

Experiencing Munlom Nature Resort

Munlom Nature Resort is rustic yet charming, and comfortable in the true sense. The resort has a very personal appeal since it comprises of only 4 double rooms and the entire resort has been made by using locally available wood. 2 double rooms in a cottage format, 1 huge double room on top of the kitchen area, and 1 big fixed luxury tent with all the modern amenities. Every room has a sit-out while the 2 room cottage has the most impeccable views since it is built on a top like a machan! The huge verandah of the 2 room cottage has stunning views of the clouds and landscapes.

The tent sit-out has a table made from a tree and looks impeccable. It is these sit-outs that are a defining feature of Munlom Nature Resort since one is likely to spend most of their time in these open spaces here. Even the stairs are skirted by pretty bamboo sticks and blend in effortlessly with the landscape of Dzongu. The shower area of the bathrooms inside the rooms has pebbles to give a natural feel.

Right from the planters to the hanging lights and wall lamps, it feels as if you are living in a jungle! The rooms are nicely done and are the perfect size with huge windows that allow cross ventilation. So even if it is a hot day in Dzongu, since Dzongu is at an altitude of only 1100m above sea level, the vantage location of Munlom Nature Resort ensures that the air that blows through the thickly forested region of Dzongu is nice and breezy.

Whole wooden bed in every room. Feels like opulence. Birding enthusiasts are surely going to have a nice time with the ample greenery around, and different colourful birds coming and perching on branches. Munlom Nature Resort is not a place for tourists used to packaged tours and experiences, but for those who yearn for the silence of nature and revel in it.

Cardamom Land – Dzongu

Dzongu and Mangan area is the hub for cardamom cultivation, this region in North Sikkim grows a different variety of cardamom that is huge in size and black in colour. It is cheaper than the green cardamom but is used in curries etc. Munlom Nature Resort is surrounded by cardamom plantations and there is a sweet fragrance of nature wherever you go! Staff is hired from the nearby villages and has been well trained to keep a mix of hospitality and warmth while keeping the Dzongu experience real!

Local Liquor of Dzongu

The wine bottles with cute tiny bamboo taster glasses are kept in the interior part of the dining area lobby and guests are welcome to taste the wines! A bottle is priced at 300-400 Rupees and the staff can procure them for you if sufficient notice of 1-2 days is given. These are locally made wines and are not available in shops. It is highly likely that the staff (manager – Rinchen) will go from home to home of every village and ask for the available bottles and flavours.

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Since every wine bottle is made for personal consumption only, it is possible that the quality of two bottles of even the same flavour is never the same! In this age of industries where the products are meant to be identical, I love the idea that the taste of every bottle is different! That in a nutshell is the essence and joie de vivre of Dzongu. Plum wine, raspberry, etc all fruits.

The Timbur wine is made from small and tiny berries & is so treasured that the locals treat it as medicine. I realised this when I carried half of the remaining bottle with me and presented it to the homestay owner in Darjeeling. He treated it with reverence and asked his wife to keep it in a safe place to be used as medicine. I am also glad that I was able to play a part in the cultural exchange by carrying back 4 bottles of local wines from Dzongu to Delhi and sharing them with numerous friends

We request for Tongba (fermented millet seeds) locally called ‘Chi’ or ‘chee’. As a ritual, it is first offered to Mount Kanchenjunga. Rinchen procures it from somewhere and it is undoubtedly the best Tongba I’ve ever had. Served in a nice bamboo tumbler with bamboo straws & one keeps pouring hot water for 2-3 rounds till the high is there. It is a mellow, nice and happy high!

In Dzongu, bananas growing, coffee like berries, different variety of fruits like apricots, peaches, plum etc etc. The staff is welcoming and so is the owner, Kim. Visitors are encouraged to treat Munlom Nature Resort as a homestay and make their own version of customised tea and snacks in the kitchen!

Hee Gyathang Village Monastery, Dzongu

A stiff hike through the incredible natural forests and scenery of Dzongu brought is to the monastery in Hee Gyathang in Lower Dzongu. On the way we had the pleasure of spotting a rainbow as well! The trail passed through lush greenery under a nice canopy of tall trees as the mist flirted with us while sunshine was visible on the other side of the mountain. It must have rained somewhere for the rainbow to be visible!

The owner of Munlom Nature Resort, Kim led us on the walk to the monastery in Dzongu and on the way showed us how cardamom grew as we smelled the pods and the plant. I also asked for the price of buying the black cardamom that grows here and am quoted 800-1000 Rupees per kilo. I ask for half a kilo to be carried home and am told it will be done!

There are leeches galore in Dzongu and a new type of dance has been invented, called ‘the leech dance’ when one twists and turns to try and remove a leech if any! It involves shaking all parts of the body to seemingly get rid of a leech if it is trying to get inside the skin.

We reach the monastery after around an hour’s slow hike through the gorgeous forest. The monastery itself is quite huge and is brightly painted in pleasing colours. It was especially surreal to notice the fog filled forest behind the monastery that lent the surroundings a very fresh feel. Sadly it was closed when we were there and had to be content with climbing a nearby vantage point that had great views of the surrounding valleys. Strong 4G signal on the viewpoint!

Everyone was keen on uploading stories on their social media handles. The strong breeze made the prayer flags flutter wildly while we were quite taken in with the pure beauty of nature. There are many resident monks at the monastery but most seem to have gone out to prepare for a ceremony of prayers that will be held at the monastery in a day or two. Maybe Saga Dawa festival.

The doors of the old enclosure adjacent to the main monastery are very pretty. There’s also a small but ancient shrine near the monastery surrounded by prayer flags. I also spot huge prayer flags in white on one side of the open space near the monastery. A signboard indicates 10th August 2005 as the establishment date on the old structure that is also surrounded by small prayer wheels on all four sides. A few local dogs come to greet us, the friendly members of our group sit and play with them.

Dzongu receives plenty of rainfall making the surroundings damp and slippery, so a lot of insects and leeches are a constant feature of hiking in Dzongu. The leeches can sometimes make their way through the tiny spaces in the shoes and and through jeans and track pants as well! It seems very surprising but does happen.

There is an incredible array of colourful flowers en-route the monastery; especially outside the local’s homes. It is a common feature across these nature-loving places, across the Himalayas from Kashmir to Arunachal Pradesh – where almost every home has a collection of plants.

Food at Munlom Nature Resort

• Buckwheat pancakes called ‘kuru’ or ‘khuri’ served with a chutney dip, locally grown buckwheat and of fantastic quality. Buckwheat is a coarse grain popularly known as the new superfood in the west and seems to be widely used in old settlements of the Himalayas. Buckwheat is nutritious and tasty. Khuri pancakes are filled with green leafy veggies and are very healthy and filling.

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• Momos, freshly made on a firewood – vegetarian and non-vegetarian both, fried and steamed; served with soup and a really spicy chutney! Modern accompaniments like french fries are also served in the evening, with mix-veg pakoras also an option. Perfect for rainy evenings that Dzongu has in plenty!
• Roti, sabji, dall, rice and greens – The staff at Munlom Nature Resort are adept at cooking usual mainland indian food for the tourists and guests feeling homesick. Water is served from a spring source and tastes sweet and yummy. In Dzongu; dall, rice, wheat and masalas are bought from outside while the vegetables are grown locally.

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Nature Loving in Dzongu

Evenings are super relaxed in Dzongu. The mist and fog are ever present with rain an intermittent partner. The insects in the dense forests of Dzongu make a crescendo of noises. It is truly like living in a jungle. There are moths, colourful butterflies and atlas moth too. Initially I was a bit apprehensive of the insects but when I let go and stop bothering, life became easy and I embraced nature in its entirety.

Silent, quiet breeze, sometimes the electricity goes and fireflies come dancing in when darkness descends on Dzongu. It gives us visitors a chance to go back to a carefree life when we used to talk to other people, play antakshri songs and simple games. The mobile networks are sporadic in Dzongu, I think Airtel 4G works best with the most reliable coverage in Dzongu and also at Munlom Nature Resort.

In the night, the lone shining light of the monastery is visible, on one of the nights we could hear the playing of the drums and trumpets and sound of cymbals. It was a festival at the monastery that we had visited earlier during the day. The sounds reverberated throughout the entire valley.

Sights and Wanderings in Dzongu

We went for a drive in Dzongu to the hot springs area, waterfalls.  Roads are horrible in Dzongu. Very very bad. The natural hot springs are located near Lingdem village and have separate enclosures for men and women. We had a great time soaking ourselves for around 30-40 mins with the therapeutic benefits of the natural hot springs water rich with sulphur.

Huge hanging suspension bridge near the hot springs area. Lush greenery with the river flowing by. Small beach with nice alluvial soft sand, river meandering by and some kids and youngsters are enjoying sitting in shaded areas and having a swim in the river. Quite hot in the sun, and very humid too. The dense jungles on both sides of the bridge seem very inviting and enticing.

We sit on the bridge, get our pictures clicked and go sit on the beach. Quite satisfying since there is hardly any sunshine on the beach side. Relax and enjoy the solitude. The youngsters loitering on the small islands near the river, remind me of the scene of the Lost series.

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We go back to some other places in Dzongu on the road, a Lepcha shrine with statues of Lepcha ancestors and elders with offerings in the form of 7 bowls and flowers. This was a widely visited shrine with many locals visiting with fresh flowers. Lepcha tribe is nature worshipping tribe and consider Mt. Kanchenjunga as their guardian deity.

Among other places to visit in Dzongu are – Tingvong Monastery, Lingzya Waterfall, Traditional Lepcha Museum at Namprikdang. Also, if one is lucky – views of mountain peaks Mt. Kanchenjunga, Sinolchu, Kabru, Pandim, Langam Chu and more can be seen on clear days from Dzongu.

River Picnic for Lunch

On one of the afternoons when we had gone out to explore the sights of Dzongu, the staff of Munlom Nature Resort were busy organising a river picnic near the Dzongu bridge. We swam in the pristine stream, a short walk from the road and the staff had organised a proper feast down there. Everything had been cooked on site and made freshly on firewood. After an hour or so of chilling in the water, lunch is served on a green leaf.

It is nature friendly and a great example of eco-tourism. The menu on offer is locally grown rice, veggies, curry, seasonal greens, and ferns. The food is delicious and has a special flavour due to it being cooked on firewood. We enjoyed the rural and rustic feel of the food and ate our fill. Next, we went hiking to a bamboo bridge hanging over the stream where we have lunch; the ladder leading to the bridge was very interesting and adventurous.

Kim was the first one to be on the bridge but there was a swarm of honeybees with a beehive somewhere close to the bridge. Therefore, we had to retreat! Fossils and mushrooms growing on the trees, near moss and lichen. Leeches galore in the jungle wherever we walked. It is a funny time when one is uncertain whether a leech is there on the feet or not! Once you stop bothering, it stops bothering you too!

Shrine in Dzongu

We drive back and stop near a small pond with a shrine on it. There is a rectangular walking path on all sides of the pond. Crazy beautiful reflections. Huge deodhar trees, very foggy and misty. Seems like sunlight doesnt make it till here. The path is very slippery, full of moss and lichen and therefore I walk very carefully. The shrine is in the form of a stone on a rocky outcrop near the water. A few lamas inhabit the nearby structure and one of them was making a bamboo basket.

Go back to Munlom Nature Resort, spot cute kids at the houses along the way. Walk to the resort after spending some time with the kids at the nearby homes. Incredibly beautiful flowers, as the weather starts cleaning a bit revealing more colours of the shades of green. Every home has a big collection of flowers in their open balcony.

Kim – Kalzang Dorjee Lepcha

Kim is co-owner of the Munlom Nature Resort and is CLC president Dzongu cum Save Dzongu member (CLC-Constituency Level Committee) who are opposed to the Hydroelectric dams on the Teesta River in Dzongu region. The Lepchas firmly believe in the motto – ‘Lepchas are nature worshipers and are dependent on rivers, lakes and mountains. We cannot let such projects destroy our present and future.’

Attending a Festival in Dzongu

Tendong Lho Rum Faat Festival – Ancient festival organised & celebrated by Lepcha people. All locals attending. Organised in a remote village school ground – Gor village school established in 1957. Nice, big compound. Worshipping and paying homage to the mountain. Offerings made with fruits and vegetables, corn, tongba, millet seeds, cucumbers etc. Eatables are also presented. Gor village is quite far from Hee Gyathang Village where Munlom Nature Resort is located and we take almost 1 hour to reach the festival location.

Khabze, savouries, cucumbers, popcorn too. Cucumbers are so huge, 1 cucumber is bigger than a hand! In Tendong Lho Rum Faat festival, locals and school kids performing dances in honour of the mountain deities. Singing songs also. All locals have gathered from nearby and far off villages of Lower and Upper Dzongu.

The festival organisers also put a festival badge made from a dried leaf & stick corn and millet seeds on the leaf that feels like paper and put it as a badge on the chest. Kids dressed in tribal costumes, performing dances. The crowd cheers wildly, they are very fashionable and dressed in vibrant coloured clothes and look very elegant.

Almost everyone attending the Tendong Lho Rum Faat festival is dressed in their traditional finery. The men look dapper wearing a Lepcha jacket & they celebrate their festivals with aplomb. Aachuley is the local greeting. The Lepcha flag can be seen fluttering on vehicles too.

In snacks & refreshments, stalls are put up. Golgappe and khuri stalls are there and are organised by school kids. Golgappa stall is a huge hit. A message for waste – a small hut has been made from waste plastic bottles. 1-2 shops selling SHG (self help group) made handicrafts and local bags. The bags are priced quite high at 500-600 Rupees.

The festival lasts for 3-4 hours. Lunch also organised. Fresh pineapples and cucumbers are cut and served to everyone. Community gathering and meal. Rice, vegetable and pork/chicken on the menu. Lepcha flag proudly hung on many vehicles. Numerous waterfalls on the route.

Shared taxi from Dzongu to Gangtok/Singtam

Shared taxi – Dzongu to Gangtok around 200 Rs. per person. Distance from Gangtok to Dzongu is 70 kms. 1-2 shared taxis ply everyday from Hee Gyathang to Dzongu and there are many options for shared taxis from Mangan to Gangtok. The shared taxis all leave from 7 am from Dzongu to 10-11 am from Mangan. Cramped and crowded. Very crowded. Around 12-15 people crammed in one bolero type vehicle. Most filled with locals and migrant workers. Keeps stopping every few minutes after crossing Mangan since the locals want to buy fresh vegetables from the roadside stalls.

Permit for Dzongu

Your homestay can obtain your permit for Dzongu which can be procured from DC Office in Mangan. Scanned copy of identity proof, 1 photograph and costs approx. 150 Rupees per person.

Thanks to Our Guest Travels for a superlative Dzongu experience! I can stay there forever.

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Now for the Happy part : I finally made it to Basar for Basar Confluence or BasCon 4.0 from 1-4 December 2019. I was contacted by Karyom Basar in advance and he had sent an invite for the festival. Hence there was no confusion as my dates were already blocked before any other assignment elsewhere could be discussed!

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Where is Basar?

Basar is a small town and headquarters of the newly formed Leparada district of Arunachal Pradesh. Arunachal Pradesh is the biggest state in Northeast India in terms of area and Basar lies in the central part of the state. Basar is located amidst an evergreen rainforest. The indigenous tribe of Basar is Galo; Galo tribe is one among the 26 major tribes of Arunachal Pradesh.

It was shocking to know that before the Bogibeel bridge was built, people would cross (that part of the road) the river Brahmaputra on boat or ferry. In that case, one cab would drop you to one side of the Brahmaputra river and another cab would be waiting on the other side of the river after the boat crossing is done. Some ferries are big enough to accommodate two-wheelers and cars as well. The boat crossing would take around 1 hr 30 mins.

However, since Bogibeel bridge has been thrown open for vehicular traffic in end of December 2018, travel time has reduced considerably. It now takes hardly 10 minutes to cross the Brahmaputra river via the 4.94 km long Bogibeel bridge. Bogibeel bridge is the 2nd longest road-cum-rail bridge in Asia.

Dibrugarh to Basar – The Journey

We were on one of the direct flights from Delhi to Dibrugarh (Only Indigo and Vistara operate direct flights from Delhi to Dibrugarh). I had read somewhere that it would only take around 4 hours from Dibrugarh to Basar, for a distance of 150 kms. I took that with a pinch of salt. Regular visitors to the Northeast would know exactly what I mean!

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The roads in Northeast India have become better over the years, but travel still takes time and one can expect to cover 25 km/hr as an average speed. Thus, even though we had left from Dibrugarh Airport by 1:30 pm, numerous breaks meant our Scorpio only rolled into Basar at 9:30 pm.

There were two SUV’s waiting for us at Dibrugarh Airport; our Scorpio was the one to leave early since we deemed it was better to try and seek an experience on the road rather than waiting at the airport. The highway in Assam was a breeze; views from Bogibeel bridge were nice and expansive and as we were crossing Silapathar I noticed the stilt houses that reminded me of the Mising tribe in Majuli.

I was instantly in a reverie and dreamt about the Poro (Apong or rice beer) that was served in a very authentic way by the Mising tribe (Also spelled as Mishing Tribe). Everyone in our vehicle got excited as I asked the driver to stop outside a house that looked like a Mising tribal’s home. Alas, the family wasn’t there but a passerby informed the driver (in Assamese) that we could find the Apong hardly 100m from there at another Mising tribal’s home! And thus started our Basar Confluence trip

Poro (Rice beer) at a Mising Household

When our car stopped, I jumped out and shouted ‘hello, hello’ for attention. A tiny girl was scribbling a painting in the notebook, her mom came to my rescue and asked me what was I looking for? I asked her if Apong (or Poro) would be available here. She confirmed yes and said it was Rs. 40 per bottle. We quickly polished off a litre of the happy liquid (light black in colour); I was glad to have made everyone taste this simple cultural delight of the Mising tribe in Assam. 

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We thanked the lady profusely, in return she made a tamul (betel nut and paan) for me and I gleefully accepted it! It was nice to be treated like a local in this faraway land. For most city-folk, every interaction is a transaction involving money. My travels across the years have gone farther and farther away from that reasoning; for me ‘Every interaction is an opportunity to share some happiness and love by making a nice conversation.’

It was time for us to continue our journey to Basar. While some of us had eaten in the flight (thanks Vistara for good food), others were hungry and wanted to make a lunch stop. We stopped somewhere around Silapathar which the driver said was a recommended place to eat. The aloo pithika was delicious and we loved eating the freshly made chapatis. It took us almost an hour for us to get done with lunch. In the meanwhile, the drivers had communicated that the other car was also about to reach the same spot as they also had to make a lunch break.

Reaching Basar in the Dark

It gave me a chance to drink some red tea (lal cha), as I really relish it after a hearty meal. In fact I am fond of lal cha so much that I have the tea leaves from Assam to make it at home! We sat outside and chatted and relaxed when suddenly from nowhere, hailstones started pouring down. First the hailstones were small and then they got bigger in size. They might have been as big as mid-size lemons. I almost as much thought that the glasses of the vehicles might be in trouble if it continued pouring hailstones!

Thankfully nothing untoward happened and after a while we scampered towards the cars. There was more than half the distance left to cover and it was already past 4 pm. The sun sets really early in these parts, especially in the winters and we saw beautiful evening colours around 4:30 pm and it got dark by 4:45 ish. Our permits were also checked at a check-post after entering Arunachal Pradesh and if all of us had not noticed a slight sliver of the crescent moon at 5 pm, it might have been considered a joke to have been in darkness at that time.

We rejoiced breathing in the fresh, aromatic air made rich in oxygen by the bountiful mountainous jungle surrounding us. Recent rains had resulted in a pitiful state of the roads and we laughed that rally enthusiasts need not go anywhere for adventure! It felt quite cold as the night went on. Most roads in the Northeast are in a constant phase of widening and ongoing construction but the work never seems to get completed. This is not to berate the authorities but the make the reader aware of the general sense of corruption that exists across this region.

Basar Confluence 2019 or BasCon 4.0

As we finally rolled into Basar at 9:30 pm, Karyom Basar and other locals were already waiting for us and quickly took us to our respective homestays. I was delighted to be staying in a local’s home instead of a hotel. It was nice and comfortable and had the added warmth of a family. Even though it was very late in the night, the family quickly made dinner for us and we finally slept after what felt like forever on the road!

Mist floated effortlessly in the green and yellow paddy fields dotted with pretty wooden huts, and it was only the chill in the air that confirmed the fact that I was awake, and not dreaming!

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After a long night’s sleep, it was a surreal sight at 8 in the morning. It was foggy and cloudy and the sun seemed to have no plans to greet us, at least that day. I was lucky that my room had a balcony with an open view of the fields of Basar. The family allowed us to use the kitchen and I was glad to make masala chai since ginger and bay leaf were available in the homestay!

Nyomar Nyodu, our homestay owner declared that the performances at the Indigenous Celebration of Galo Tribe at Todak Basar Stadium were about to start and we should rush! This was another location where traditional dances are held on the same day as Basar Confluence and it served as a nice precursor to BasCon.

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An interesting fact – Almost everyone’s surname in Basar is Basar! 

When someone offered to drop us to the grounds, we preferred to walk. The landscape was lush green with plentiful rain around. Young girls and boys played football; Northeast India has always been leading the way in terms of female empowerment (Some states here are a matrilineal society, e.g., Meghalaya).

First tryst with Poka – The Magic Potion

It must have been around 11 am when we entered the ground where the Indigenous Celebration of Galo Tribes was being held and immediately met school kids dressed up in traditional Galo attire. As we sat and were enjoying the local dances, someone thrust a glass of dark coloured liquid ‘Poka‘ in our hands. Poka is rice beer/wine made after a process of fermentation and it is widely understood in entire Arunachal Pradesh that Galo tribe makes the best Kala Apong (aka Poka). It is a little sweet in taste and in my opinion, Poka is delicious.

Process of Making Poka : Husk of the locally grown rice is roasted and is mixed with ash. This mix and yeast begin the process of fermentation. It is kept in a bamboo-cane basket, and stored in outer covering of wild leaves for more than 2 weeks. The final product, ‘poka‘ is filtered like a funnel after hot water is poured over the fermented mix and the result is delicious sweet and slightly potent brew – poka collected beneath the bamboo basket.

After this wonderful start to the Basar experience, we rushed to the venue of Basar Confluence after a call from Karyom who said that BasCon 4.0 was about to start. We hitched a ride and quickly reached Basar Confluence parking. Thats the thing about festivals and people in small towns, everyone is super helpful and ready to help. The guy who dropped us was a local and he had come to Basar (from Itanagar) only to attend BasCon 4.0 (Thanks Mie). It was heartening to hear this.

Basar Confluence already was living true to its promise of being a proper local festival organised by the locals, for the locals. 

At the entrance, it was captivating to notice the really cute direction mascots for BasCon 4.0. The mascots were designed by the extremely talented Jene Hai from Basar. The entrance registration hut was made from bamboo and entry was a smooth process. Taking plastic of any kind inside the festival venue was forbidden. The locals had set up some stalls outside their homes; selling oranges, tea, coffee, chicken, pork and rice pancakes. Since it was the orange harvesting season, the oranges were sweet and of really good quality. Price of the oranges at these stalls sold by the locals was 10 Rupees for 4 pieces.

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It was fun to walk with the local performers who asked us ‘Aldure?’, which means ‘How are you?’ in Galo language. To which we were told to reply ‘Alruudo‘ which means Thank you in Galo. We were a bit jumbled with these confusing words but had a great time using them with locals over the course of the 4 day festival. Or hang on, wait … (Have I just confused both these words as they might be only one?) Blame it on the poka, you see!

Once inside Basar Confluence venue, I was pleasantly surprised to see that the entire festival was eco-friendly and that everything was made from bamboo.

Basar Confluence – Eco-friendly & Plastic Free Festival

The welcome absence of plastic was one of the defining features of Basar Confluence Festival. The futuristic locals and organising committee GRK (more on GRK later) have used the locally found abundant bamboo in all the constructions of Basar Confluence Festival. Right from the main stage to the food stalls, the official BasCon photo setup, benches, bridges and stairs (in short everything) had been made of bamboo.

The seating enclosure for the invitees & VIP Guests was also constructed wholly of bamboo. And hold on… yes, the toilets were also entirely made of bamboo and huge leaves. Not to leave the dustbins behind, which were also (yes, you guessed it!) made from bamboo.

The venue of Basar Confluence was nothing short of a mythical paradise; set in a natural hillock amidst lush paddy fields. Even though we were long into the winter in December, the shade of green would’t give away this fact. The sun was in a constant battle with the clouds and whenever it managed to peek out of the dense cloud cover, the colours were a treat to the eyes. I couldn’t wait to experience the tribal life of the Galos during the four-day cultural spectacle of Basar Confluence to immerse deeper into the art, culture, and music of Arunachal Pradesh.

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The Main Stage at BasCon 4.0 was set up in a sort of depression in the open air festival venue so that maximum number of people can witness the performances. It was a brilliant move by the organisers that ensured that at any point of time the visitors can have a glimpse of the stage to enjoy the traditional dances and performances while enjoying Poka. A limited seating space would have resulted in everyone scrambling to get the best views or missing out on the entire performance altogether.

In a move that could be called a masterstroke in chess, huge bamboos were spread out across the terrain and people could sit and watch the performances happening on the main stage from everywhere! Indigenous and brilliant.  

Traditional Attire of Galo(s) and other Tribes at BasCon 4.0 

Most of the festival attendees were curious locals; they were excited and pleased that their traditions, culture and heritage were being preserved and appreciated. They were especially happy to see visitors from far off places (like us) were having a great time celebrating Basar Confluence. Their eyes sang with happiness when they saw us with bamboo tumblers filled with poka in our hands and when we told that we loved it!

Men were dressed smartly in their traditional costumes and donned a bamboo hat which was intricate and cost as much as INR 15000 when I saw it at one of the stalls selling traditional bamboo products. Women were dressed in their traditional and colourful finery as everyone sported a ‘Ghale‘, which is an embroidered skirt. The locals and other visitors from Arunachal Pradesh were having a jolly good time roaming around the food stalls and meeting their relatives over poka and authentic local delicacies.

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Experiencing Basar Confluence

Karyom took us around the festival venue on the first day; and handed all of us a complimentary glass of poka! A glass here in the Galo country of Basar means a huge bamboo tumbler with a capacity of 1 litre. It was to be just the start of a long affair with these bamboo glasses. Plus they also had a cute sling so you could carry it on your fingers or hang them on your shoulders as a style statement! I loved them so much that they now serve as bamboo planters at home!!

At Basar Confluence, food stalls serve their delicacies in Toro leaf (looks similar to banana leaf) and the cutlery is in the form of bamboo plates and spoons. The food & souvenir stalls itself are made from bamboo and the roof is made from thatched leaves. It is like being back to nature and the way we might be able to keep earth in its natural form.

The Food stalls’ chief offerings were roasted chicken, pork, fish and mithun in different methods of preparation. The vegetarian dishes on offer included noodles, rice, puri-sabji, mushrooms, sweet potato and steamed rice cakes.

Sustainable, Rural & Environment-Friendly Festival

I have long maintained that the only way forward is local and Basar Confluence is a shining case of the same. To ensure that visitors to the festival do not have to resort to buying / carrying plastic bottles for water, the stalls have put filter water dispensers and people can drink water from there. Almost every local carries their own bamboo tumbler in Basar! These are the little things that matter, and by making such small changes Basar Confluence is setting a great example for other traditional festivals held across entire India.

Why should you attend Basar Confluence ?

Among the events held during 4 days of festivities at Basar Confluence are – Folk songs and dances, traditional music, festival & folk presentations, community sports like archery and tug of war, live guitar performances, traditional fishing, hiking and trekking, nature trails, adventure sports, hot air balloon rides, exhibition on biodiversity conservation, selfie points and the in-demand latibule (a hidden place!), enjoy the cool breeze at the treehouse with a vantage view of Basar Confluence.

For shopping there are stalls selling traditional bamboo products, textile and weaving stalls, colourful and metallic jewellery, nature trails, ladies selling oranges, organic tea from Along, stalls selling rice pancakes, paintings and art, bamboo exhibition stall, Agri tourism, ATV rides, fruits like kiwi, pineapple, starfruit, and a multitude of food stalls from various tribes and areas of Arunachal Pradesh. I must mention that the prices at the food stalls at Basar Confluence is very reasonable as compared to other festivals like Ziro Festival of Music and Hornbill Festival in Nagaland.

Another interesting place to visit was the EB Project Hill. Stalls – ITBP Sweet Gallery. Bamboo baskets and poka glasses for sale, Khamti Stall handicrafts, textiles and jackets, bracelets at Nocte tribe stall.

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Top Memories of Basar Confluence

Stunning colours in the evening overlooking the golden rice fields in the mellow winter sun; coupled with the joy of witnessing authentic tribal performances in this incredible setting!

On one of the days, there was a dedicated Agri Tourism section setup amidst the paddy fields where women were harvesting the crop and men were husking it. It was nice to hear the harvest songs of the Galo Tribe of Basar. 

The Textile Stall was located in a separate section of Basar Confluence. Since I have a habit of wandering around everywhere, perhaps I got lucky to explore this live demonstration where women were weaving ‘ghale‘ and fabrics using the traditional weaving methods. A brief conversation ensued and resulted in me buying a set of 6 woven table mats in gorgeous Arunachal design!

Rice cooked in a special hollow bamboo at Khamti Tribe Stall. First the sticky rice is soaked overnight in water. Then the rice is stuffed in a tender bamboo hollow and roasted over an open fire. The final dish is eaten by scraping the edges of the bamboo and the rice comes out in form of a cooked bamboo imbibing the delicious flavours. We were served this dish called ‘Khau-laam rice‘ with spicy aloo pithika, and the very friendly staff also gave us complimentary two steamed jaggery rice and peanut cakes as dessert!

Feeling the breeze at the treehouse at BasCon 4.0, and the beautiful location of the Soi Tree House. It felt very adventurous to climb up to the top of the treehouse and chat up with the locals and indulge in singing and dancing with them, overlooking the festivities and goings on at Basar Confluence over a bamboo tumbler of poka.

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Visit to Joli. Joli is a mysterious place that is known to be haunted and sacred at the same time. It is around 4 kilometers away from BasCon venue and involves a very scenic walk through a stream. It is interesting to hear the locals’ spine-chilling narration of their experiences at Joli. The legend of Joli is that – ‘Yapoms are spirits who are the main inhabitants of the forests. In the old times the spirits would throw pebbles at locals who were passing through their area.’ We went to Joli and had a great time revelling in the pristine beauty of nature. The water level keeps increasing as one keeps walking and is around the thigh level, when you come across a waterfall in the stream in the end.

Undoubtedly, Poka in Basar is among the best local alcohol(s) I’ve ever tasted. It tastes sweet and there are two qualities of Poka on offer at Basar Confluence Festival. Poka Class I and Poka Class II are priced at 300 and 200 Rupees respectively. They might seem a bit overpriced but once you drink a bamboo tumbler you realise the quality is worth the price. We tried cheap poka elsewhere but it wasn’t worth it.

Don’t get misled by its sweet taste, poka is quite capable of getting one high. So drink slowly and enjoy the high without getting drunk! Another positive thing about poka is that it doesn’t give a strong hangover. Hence, even if you get drunk you don’t have much to worry about since the locals will give you a ride back to your homestay (as I did on 2-3 days of the festival, when hitching rides to get back to the homestay!)

Witnessing some unique sports & competitions like fastest bamboo pole climbing, swinging on a rope attached to a pole, archery competition which was super fun, the fiercely contested Tug of War among the different villages of Basar, and the funny competition where men had to run with their wives on the shoulder! It gave us so much joy to cheer wildly for the competitions with the locals.

The fishing venue setup in Ego Valley was perfect in every sense. From the weather being nice and sunny, to a wide and expansive landscape with the Ego river flowing. The best part was that families from all the nearby villages had decided to turn up. A picnic-like atmosphere prevailed; a bamboo bridge had been constructed to go to the other side of the river where we witnessed traditional fishing that is no longer practised.

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In the old times – A tree bark was released in water which numbs the fish for some time, making them easier to catch. This method is not used anymore because the tree bark is difficult to find these days. Elsewhere families were fishing with their hands and bamboo baskets and it was unreal to see them catch fishes so easily. There were food stalls also at the fishing venue and it was nice to see the Basar Confluence method of bamboo construction being practised here as well.

Ego Valley was around 1 hour away (27 kms) from Basar and on the drive there were small stalls selling fresh pineapples. I immediately jumped out and picked a yummy pineapple for only 20 Rupees! It was tasty beyond words. I tried the bananas too at another stall. The fresh fruits in the Northeast are too good to be true!

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Paintings, portraits and art on canvas made by a very talented young artist who was hearing and speech impaired. His eyes shined with happiness when we communicated through hand gestures and told him his work was exemplary! This stall was in a separate enclosure of Basar Confluence right at the entrance of the festival. A portrait of an Apatani lady made by him hangs proudly in my room at home! 

Adventure sports, hot air balloon ride, ATV rides, the lights installed in all the seating areas and entire festival ground (except the stage) were warm lights and gave a pleasing feel to the eyes. I was especially in awe of the bamboo lampshades and even wondered asking Karyom if I could carry back these simple lampshades that made even the mundane yellow bulbs look so beautiful!

Among the Galo performances – Galo Ponu which is a welcome dance performed by the women. Nyoho Honam was the (Galo valour dance) Nyida Parik Galo ceremonial wedding dance. Erap Chanam – Galo ritual dance. Galo Mopin performance, Ho Delo performance from Galos and also Galo Folk ballads. Apart from that, there were other tribal performances and Folk presentations from tribes across Arunachal Pradesh –

Sherdukpen Tribe from Shergaon in West Kameng District, Bamboo dance of Nocte Tribe from Patkai Hills of Tirap district, Tai-Khamti (Tai-Khampti) from Namsai, Singpho Tribe from Changlang District, Apatani Tribe from Ziro Valley, Mishmi Tribe from Dibang Valley in Lohit & Anjaw Districts, Tagin Tribe from Daporijo in Upper Subansiri District, Nyishi Tribe from East Kameng District, Yobin Tribe from Changlang district, Miji Tribe from West Kameng District, Adi Tribe from West Kameng District, Memba Tribe from Mechuka in Upper Siang District. (In addition, I also spotted a few men donning Monpa hats (Monpa Tribe is from Tawang), ITBP performance was the icing on the cake.

Places to see in Basar & Around

Villages Walks to villages Gori-1 & Gori-2 that are close to the venue of Basar Confluence 4.0. The locals will make you feel welcome and village walks are a great way to immerse yourself in getting to know Galo lifestyle in a better way. The villages are pretty with colourful flowers and greenery. Almost all the old houses are built on an elevated structure (like stilts) and are made of bamboo.

Trek through a dense jungle to Bat Cave (Tapen Penru) in Padi village around 20 kms from Basar.

Deke waterfall (20 kms), Bumchi Waterfall (7 kms), Dime Diite waterfall (5 kms) at Pagi Village.

Odii Putu viewpoint is located close to Sago village and has a fabulous view of Basar. It is around 15 kms away from Basar and reaching here requires a stiff ascending hike of around 2 hours. According to the locals, the sunrise that we see from Odii Putu viewpoint is the first sunrise of the country!

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EB Project Hill (3 Kms from Basar) – A unique project of biodiversity conservation through rainwater harvesting. It is the brainchild of Egam Basar and is located near Soi village and involves a hike through a dense jungle.

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Joli – As mentioned above.

How to reach Basar?

Fastest option to reach Basar but may not be the most economical : Flight to Dibrugarh, then shared sumo to Basar through Silapathar. Or flight to Guwahati, then train to Naharlagun and then bus / shared sumo to Basar.

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On a phone call with Manash sometime in July, he invited me to experience the Ziro Festival of Music with his company Discover Northeast where they put up a campsite by the name of Camp Zingaros. I am not exactly a ‘music festival person’ but having heard praises of ZFM from other sources as well, it was almost a must that I attend it. ZFM (Ziro Festival of Music) is usually held in the last week of September, and the dates for 2019 were from 26 to 29 September.

The nearest airport to Ziro is Lilabari airport near North Lakhimpur in Assam. Dibrugarh airport isn’t very far in terms of distance from Ziro Valley as well. The most preferred airport with frequent connectivity is Guwahati and my flights were booked to-fro from Guwahati. Guwahati airport isn’t close to Ziro Valley at all but can be said to be the most convenient for people travelling to Ziro for Ziro Festival of Music.

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From Guwahati there are numerous day and night trains to Naharlagun station in Arunachal Pradesh. From Naharlagun, Ziro is only 100 kms away and shared cabs ply in the morning hours coinciding with the arrival time of the train – Donyi Polo Express.

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Hearing about my ZFM (Ziro Festival of Music) plans, I was joined by 2 of my friends. We landed in Guwahati just after noon and were promptly welcomed by a downpour. I was very keen on sampling authentic Assamese cuisine at Khorikaa Restaurant and had ample time since our train to Naharlagun was only at 9 in the evening.

First we headed to the waterfront on the banks of the Brahmaputra river and had just ordered a jhal muri chat when it started pouring down. We scampered for cover under the green trees and were disappointed when there were no sunset colours in the waters of the Brahmaputra in the evening.

Khorikaa was a delight with its delicious Assamese Thali that comprised of many dishes and the aromatic Joha rice. I liked the rice so much that I ended up carrying a kilo back home on my return journey. It was a fabulous early dinner at Khorikaa restaurant and since Guwahati train station was very close from there, we ended up reaching the station early.

That left me with some time to pick up a souvenir from Manipur at the small shop at Platform No.1 just after you enter the Guwahati Railway Station. I got a small muffler; on my third visit to this shop and realising the authenticity of the woven woollen products since it was owned by a Manipuri local.

Himanshu from Discover Northeast waved us goodbye at the station and we met some co-travellers as well. Manash had already informed me the number of the sumo driver who would drive us to Ziro Valley from Naharlagun Railway Station. Although ZFM was starting from 26 September, we had opted to reach one day early to arrive before the crowds and rest a little.

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There are limited sumos in this region and the influx of festival goers to Ziro means that the demand for seats becomes more than the supply for these few days. Coupled with the horrendous roads it results in the cab guys quoting whatever price that comes to their mind!

It is best to book the comprehensive package provided by Camp Zingaros wherein they take care of the entire transportation after arriving in Guwahati, including the Pass for Ziro Festival of Music. The usual per seat price from Naharlagun to Ziro is INR 500. I also noticed a solitary bus on this route Itanagar – Naharlagun – Ziro, the bus leaves after the train arrives and the ticket charge for the bus is only INR 150 to 200. I enquired that the bus from Ziro leaves early in the morning and reaches Naharlagun by around 1-2 Pm.

It was daylight by the time we reached Naharlagun. It was foggy and misty since Naharlagun is surrounded by lush green hills. We were six travellers in the sumo and the rate had been agreed by Manash – INR 4500 for the entire sumo; since the 6th guy who had joined us was from a different campsite the taxi guy took some extra money from him to make it over 5000 for the sumo from Naharlagun train station to Discover Northeast’s campsite deep inside Ziro Valley.

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I’m sharing this information since there were reports that sumo’s were charging approx INR 7500 next day when the mismatch between supply and demand was at its most skewed.

The road to Ziro (as expected) is in a terrible condition (as always); but I must add that it is better than I remember during my earlier visits. We stop numerous times according to the whims and fancies of our sumo guy! Thanks to Discover Northeast’s efficient work style, our ILP (Inner-Line Permits) are in place and checked at the Check Post near Potin. We have our breakfast at a ramshackle dhaba with a stunning view.

I spot some juicy pineapples at a nearby stall and rush to get some for us. A child is in charge of the pineapple stall and refuses to cut it. I beg a lady from the next shop and she takes pity and asks the kid to cut 2 pineapples in small pieces for us! Sweet Joy! Hollowed out bamboo roots are kept for selling as well, and almost every vehicle that passes by buys the bamboo shoots kept in the bottles. The pineapples are heavenly and I am left wondering about an entirely different world that I am in. India’s North east surely feels like an adventure and Arunachal Pradesh is at the forefront of it.

The road winds and winds and as Yazali approaches I am apprehensive that Ziro Valley is like a mirage that is much farther away than the 95 kilometres that the signboards indicate. When the valley finally opens up, I can’t help but feel that I am in dreamland in the midst of misty rolling hills. The swaying paddy fields have turned golden and I finally begin to appreciate the wonder of Ziro Valley, on my third visit! We keep bouncing on the road for what feels like an eternity and the sumo finally rolls into Ziro Valley at around 1 pm in the afternoon.

Camp Zingaros

Hapoli is the modern town in Ziro Valley and we cross it to make our way across the verdant golden valley. The road in Ziro runs right through the middle of the valley and is flanked on both sides by swaying paddy fields. During the Ziro Festival of Music, traffic is made one way in many sections so that there are no traffic jams and proceedings are smooth for the festival. Since we had arrived one day before ZFM’s official dates, there was no such one way issue and we smoothly made it to Camp Zingaros’s vantage location of its campsite.

While most of the other campsites were located close to each other, Camp Zingaros campsite was in a different location and overlooked the golden paddy fields and green misty hills in the distance. The most important part was that the campsite was dry and we didn’t have to buy gum boots to navigate. Ziro Valley had received its fair share of rainfall over the past few days and weeks and mud and slush was the norm in other campsites (other ZFM attendees were privy to this information).

Camp Zingaros campsite was at a 10 minutes walking distance from the festival grounds of ZFM. That ensured that we could have our calm whenever we wanted! Camp Zingaros campsite had ample open space, there were numerous sit-outs made in the form of bamboo benches. There were 2 sets of areas where around 30 odd people could enjoy the live guitar performances along with bonfire. We could see the clouds floating past and the distant sound of music during the day added a lot of character to the proceedings.

The campsite was huge and there was an onsite restaurant/café as well where one could order snacks, meals and other refreshments like tea and coffee. The land of the campsite had been leased from a local and their home was on the premises too where an annexe was converted into the café space.

Charging points were in a separate enclosure and the reliable electricity supply in Ziro meant that phone charging was never a problem, even though there were around 180-200 people at Camp Zingaros campsite for Ziro Festival of Music. Filter water was available in a bamboo filler, although some pipeline issue meant that most people had to forcibly buy water bottles due to no other option.

It was a joyous atmosphere at Camp Zingaros. The tents were spacious and were in close proximity to each other. The fencing of the boundary was done with wooden sticks and that doubled up as a space for drying clothes and towels! Thankfully, the rain didn’t create havoc during the festival and only on one of the days did it actually pour down.

Washrooms for men were portable bamboo ones while the women had theirs done in concrete. It was anyway too cold to have a bath but some adventurous ones braved the queues and emerged victorious!

The defining and most memorable memory of Camp Zingaros is the guitar sessions in the night over free flowing apong (rice beer-wine). Roktim from Guwahati was the in-house guitarist for Camp Zingaros and everyone sang and huddled close to the bonfire for warmth. New friendships were forged as the crowds swayed to the mellifluous voice of different singers. The chorus continued well into the night everyday and I even heard the singing at 4-430 one morning which indicated that the revellers hadn’t let the bonfire go off all night!

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Ziro Festival of Music

The festival grounds of ZFM were a short 10 minute walk away from Camp Zingaros. On the way, we passed some food stalls selling snacks and local apong (rice beer-wine). Entry to Ziro Festival of Music (ZFM) had the requirement of either a day pass or a composite festival pass that granted entry for all days. The per day pass cost INR 2000 while the Composite ZFM pass for all days cost approx. 5000-6000.

There were huge queues on the first day of entry since the passes had to be collected; thanks to Manash’s excellent organisation our passes had been brought in advance and we didn’t even have to stand in a long queue.

The entry tag for ZFM was RFID enabled and entry was smooth after extensive checking. Carrying plastic bottles was totally banned, which was a great step. For those who had a Composite Festival pass for all days, they didn’t have to stand in the ticket queue everyday while the day pass holders were required to stand in the ticket queue everyday which made the Composite 4 day pass a great buy. Filter water dispensers had been installed in numerous places in the ZFM festival grounds and that ensured plastic waste was not created unnecessarily.

The main act – Music at ZFM was magical and I was insanely happy with the knowledge that the crowds were well behaved and I was actually witnessing a European style open air music festival right here in India in the northeast. The festival goers swayed and danced in the open grounds and everybody made friends with everybody.

Day Stage & Night Stage (Danyii – Piilo) 

ZFM typically began at around 2 pm in the afternoon where the performances would be held at the day stage. It overlooked the paddy fields and was a gorgeous location to soak in the sunshine and enjoy the picnic sort of atmosphere created by the local crowds. The night stage performances would begin by around 6 pm after a break of an hour or so from the time the day stage performances ended. The sun sets early in the northeast and we could witness stunning evening colours everyday at around 430 to 5 pm.

Stalls at Ziro Festival of Music

There are food stalls set up by tribes from across the state of Arunachal Pradesh and also other states and cuisines at ZFM. These food stalls offer a variety of local liquor in the form of Apong, Kala Apong, Marwa and different types of home-made wines like peach, pear, kiwi, pineapple etc. Prices vary between 100-300 per bamboo glass and 300-500 for a half litre bottle. Meat lovers were in for a treat with every stall having their own speciality. Homesick North Indians were not to be left behind as a Chole Bhature stall was doing rousing business having identified this opportunity!

We had got really lucky with the local alcohol during Ziro Festival of Music. In my customary style, I had asked for a ride to Ziro when a lady was heading to Hapoli and over conversations in the car, she took us to her sister’s home near Hapoli. Her sister was a master brewer and we had all the varieties of apong and wine laid out in front of us! We went berserk and brought around 20 bottles for 200 Rupees per litre! It was to stand us in good stead since the same alcohol was priced at over 500 per litre in the festival stalls. Thanks to the lady in Ziro who came like an angel!

There are also unique stalls near the Day Stage Area where a model tourism village showcased its agri-products like pineapples and other fruits. Another stall sold t-shirts with local designs, while another one sold baked goodies made from grains like millet and barley. AP Tourism also had a small stall where they had signboards of other festivals. Official Ziro Festival of Music merchandise was available for sale at one of the stalls.

A central area had one huge bar where one could buy bottled beer (and maybe other bottled alcohol too). There was European (Lithuanian or Liechtenstein) wheat beer Ponaa being sold for very cheap prices thanks to almost negligible taxes on alcohol in Arunachal Pradesh. City folks were super excited by the prospect of cheap beer and had their bellies full. In the wine shops in Ziro, one could try even Korean beer! Surprise surprise it was super tasty too.

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The stalls space had 8-10 huge tables constructed under a canopy and everything was made of bamboo. It had a nice eco-friendly feel about it since everything was so connected to the earth. ZFM could prove to be a great example for other festivals for lessons in sustainability and using local materials while keeping the setting authentic.

Eco-friendly bio toilets were setup in two separate areas and the volunteers were efficient in handling the festival goers. There were separate loos for men and women and manageable queues. Only on the Lucky Ali day did the crowds actually become humongous and the toilets had such huge queues that we had to actually go back to Camp Zingaros campsite to relieve ourselves!

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When I had made up my mind for attending the festival, I was a little apprehensive thinking if I might get bored at ZFM for the entire 4 days. Funnily enough, I have no idea how the 4 days of Ziro Festival of Music went by in a jiffy. Maybe it was the pear and pineapple wine, which started our day in the absence of filtered water; or it was the musical and fragrant air of Ziro Valley.

Whatever it was, during ZFM 2019 I had finally fallen in love with Ziro. 

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